Text 




iper 



:3 u-y 



GoBTlghtN". 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



this journal 
a score of 



[F. 

THE Tw 
appeare 

years we have met with more or less of that imitation 
which is the sincerest form of flattery. 

As the quality of newspaper circulation depends largely 
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WOOL an° cotton reporter 

Frank P. Bennett & Co., Inc., 'Publishers 

530 Atlantic Ave., Boston 

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RHOADS LEATHER 

D tZflL^ i 1 IN W 



k' 





"CAN HE DELIVER THE GOODS?" 



is the measure for a man now- 
adays ; and the same for a 
belt. B HO ADS LEATHER 
BELTING will keep your 
machinery going. 
Let tis mail you our catalogue. 



J. E. RHOADS & SONS 



PHILADELPHIA, 12 N. Third St. 
NEW YORK, 40 Fulton St. 
BOSTON, Hamblet & Hayea Co., 

Eastern Agents, 105-111 Summer St. 
Factory, WILMINGTON, DEL 







^he OTIS 

TUBULAR FEED WATER HEATER, OIL 
SEPARATOR AND PURIFIER 



EXHAUST [INLET EXHAUST ] OUTLET 




is not an experi- 
ment but a tried 
and tested appliance 
that the makers are 
not afraid to 

GUARANTEE 

To heat the feed water to the boiling 
point (210 or 212 degrees) with the 
exhaust steam without causing any back 
pressure, also to extract the oil 
from the exha%ist, so that the exhaust 
steam after being passed through the 
heater can be used for heating purposes, 
and the water of condensation for the 
heating system be returned to the boiler 
without the additional expense of 
an eliminator. 



We are so sure of 
the OTIS that we 
agree to pay all cost 
of a trial — freight, 
cartage, piping, etc., 
if it fails to do all 
we claim for it. 



CATALOGUE AND PRICES AT YOUR SERVICE 



The Stewart Heater Company 



218 Norfolk Ave.. 



BUFFALO, N. Y. 



LANE PATENT STEEL FRAME 

CANVAS MILL BOXES 
BASKETS and TRUCKS 

Made in all styles, shapes and sizes to suit 
requirements. 




Fie.za 



Materials used are always highest quality. 
Workmanship as perfect as skilled and experienced 
workmen can make it. 




Fig. 27.. 



Our product is the result of years exclusively 
devoted to originating and developing this highest type 
and most perfect of all movable mill receptacles. 



MANUFACTUBED ONLY BT 

W. T. LANE & BROTHER 

Office and Works : 

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How TO Popularize 



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[COPYRIGHT APPLIED FOR] 



FROM THE 



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PUBLISHED BY 

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A Cotton 
Fabrics Glossary 

Containing 
instruftions for 
the 

manufacture 
of every 
known grade 
and variety 
of Cotton 
Fabrics 

^rice\ . . . . $3M 



Frank P. Bennett & Co., Inc. 

Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Chicago, Washington, 
.Pittsburgh, Salt Lake City. 




Copyrighted, 1907, by 
Frank P. Bennett & Co., Inc. 



}\ Cotton fabrics glossary 



CONTAINING INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE MANUFACTURE 

OF EVERY KNOWN GRADE AND VARIETY 

OF COTTON FABRICS 



[Copy r iff hted 1896 by Bennett's Information Affeucy] 



"PiP" OR "MARSEILLES." 

The quilted weave, as applied to 
cotton fabrics, is known among weav- 
ers as the "Marseilles" weave. It is a 
double cloth, the face being a moder- 
ately close, plain weave. The back is 
a very open, plain weave. Between the 
back and face a soft twisted heavy 
filling, called "stuffing," is woven. The 
two cloths are stitched together at 
frequent intervals in weaving, the 
stitches being arranged so as to suffi- 
ciently bind the two cloths together, 
and at the same time form an orna- 
mental design or pattern. The "stuf- 
fing" between the cloths gives the fab- 
ric the embossed effect. 

THE FACE 

being plain woven is drawn into hed- 
dles as for sheeting. The back is also 
a plain weave, but the back warp is 
also the quilting warp, and has to be 
mounted in a "jacquard" harness, un- 
less the pattern is small enough to be 
produced on a "dobby." Two face 
threads and one back (or quilting) 
thread are drawn into each dent of 
reed. The construction is shown in 
diagram. Fig. 1. 



11 liW 

Two threads of face and one HSSfiSS g"^ffl5,?,f'ii"'s 
of back warp are drawn Into aSnaS" '^"''".F'""'" 
each dent ot reied. Back warp fflBBDHI Back- Fnimg 
Is on a separate beam, and con- DHBHBB stuffing Fuimg 
tains one-half the number of R2RS22 '''"==,f"«''s 
threads that are in the face nSa^SS Baok Fining* 

Fig. 1. 



form the back. 

THIS CONSTRUCTION 

calls for a loom with two shuttle boxes 
at each end of lathe. Large pat- 



terns require a "jacquard" attachment, 
while the small designs may be mad© 
on a dobby head; also two warp beams 
are necessary. In operation the loom 
. throws in one back, two face and one 
stuffing pick in regular order. To 
make the embossed effect show up 
well the back warp is woven with con- 
siderably more tension than the face. 

AS AN ARITHMETICAL BASIS 

for the construction of this fabric, 
about 11 times the square root of the 
average hank number on face and- 
back may be used. The "stuffing" 
should be four times as heavy as the 
average number used for face and 
back. On this basis a Marseilles quilt 
or counterpane, if woven with average 
No. 35 on face and back, and No. S%, 
stuffing would have: 

64 threads per inch of iyO. 30 warp on face. 
32 " " " " 30 " back. 

64 picks " " " 42 filling on face. 

32 " " " " 42 " back. i 

32 " " " " 8% " as stxiffing-. I 

and if woven 12 quarters square, would 
weigh about 3 9-10 pounds per quilt; 
or take a 30-inch vesting fabric, made 
of average No. 80 yarn on face and 
back and 40 stuffing. The stuffing yam 
in this case is only twice the weight 
of the face, but tnere are twice as 
many picks relatively thrown in. 
There is no back filling used in vest- 
ings. The back, when not used in 
quilting, is floated. The organizatioa 
would be: 

98 threads per inch on face, . -,, ,„ 

9S Dicks " " " Average >,o. 80 .. 

98 ■ " " stuffing No. 40. 

The picks are thrown in two face 
and two stuffing regularly. At 30 
inches wide the goods would weigh 
4 65-100 yards per pound. 

IN THIS EXAMPLE 

the average number of the face yam 
is given. The fabric looks better and 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



wears better, if warp and filling on 
face are alike, but it Helps the weav- 
ing out wonderfully to have a consid- 
erable difference between the two, the 
wai'p being from 10 to 20 per cent 
lieavier than the tilling. 

It is beyond the scope of an element- 
ary article like this to attempt any 
description of the means used to pro- 
duce the ornate designs of the fabric. 
The artist who origmates textile de- 
signs must draw each design to fit the 
fabric he is dealing with. Bach fabric 
has its special characteristics as to de- 
sign, and each also has its limitations. 
The characteristics and limits of the 
fabric under consideration may be 
tiere stated. 

COLOR EFFECTS. 

1. Color effects are hardly admis- 
sible. The fabric is essentially a white 
one. The quilting warp is sometimes 
colored, so as to show a pattern com- 
posed of colored lines and dots on a 
whue ground. The design Is not there- 
by altered, for the pattern woven 
with colored stitching may also be 
woven entirely white. 

2. The fabric admits only of a de- 
' sign of "dots" arranged to produce 

large designs. 

^.^. In the vestings and fabrics with 
small patterns, the quilting warp 
threads, when not raised to make a 
stitch, are floated. The dots then 
should be arranged so as to avoid very 
long floats. 

4. On counterpanes the design has 
to be very large, and has to be pro- 
duced on a "jacquard" machine of com- 
paratively small capacity. This calls 
for a design that can be enlarged in 
the tie-up of the harness and to this 
■end certain parts of the design are ar- 
ranged so as to admit of several repC' 
titions. 

THE NAME "PIQUE" 

is now generally applied to this fabric 
when woven in small patterns within 
the capacity of the "dobby." This 
name particularly applies when the 
goods are to be used for ladies' and 
children's dresses, men's shirt fronts, 
etc. However, the fabric that is called 
"pique" when used for dresses or 
shirt fronts, would be a "Marseilles" 
if made up into a man's vest. The 
name "pique" is probably from the 
French "piquer," to quilt or prick with 
a, needle. Possibly the name "Mar- 
seilles" is also a corruption of the 
French "matelas," a quilt or mattress. 

A CORDED "MARSEILLES." 
OT "pique" is essentially the same fab- 
Tic as the figured article, but is woven 



rather differently. The warp is drawn 
into a three-shed harness like a com- 
mon three-shed twill. To produce the 
corded effect the harnesses are op- 
erated by a doboy. Two warps are 
tised as in the preceding cases, one 
warp having twice as many threads as 
the other; the quilting warp is drawn 
into the back harness, the face warp 
in the middle and front. The pegging 
plan of dobby chain is shown at Fig. 2. 



at 



stuffing 
■ fillinif 



DDB 

ama 

DBH stuffing 
DHD facT ailing 

aam 



Fig. 2. 



As this weave calls for four picks of 
face filling and two picks of stuflang in 
succession, the lathe need only have 
drop boxes on one end. 

QUILT WEAVE GOODS 

shouid be finished so as to preserve, 
as far as possible, the convexity or 
puff of the quilting. To this end, after 
bleaching and sizing, they should be 
dried on tenter-hooks. The piece 
goods can be dried on the tentering 
machine, through which they should 
run face down. The quilts or coun- 
terpanes are handled singly, and are 
stretched on square tentering frames 
and dried in a hot room. There is a 
fabric on the market called "P K," 
which is often confoimded with 
"pique," the names having the same 
sound. "P K" is a float weave and 
the fabric bears no relation to "pique" 
or "Marseilles.'" 



TDCKS. 



Cotton Wash Fabric. 

A tuck fabric is a single cloth and 
is made by using two or more warps, 
is generally composed of all cotton, 
cotton and silk, and all silk, and can 
be made on any loom having either a 
dobby or a jacquard attachment, and 
single or double box, double box 
looms, of course, giving great scope 
for filling patterns. 

A tuck effect in a cloth is a perfect 
pleat running across the cloth from 
one selvage to the other and was used 
extensively a few years ago in making 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



& 



lancy bosoms for men's outing or 
neglige sliirts and ladies' waisting, 
very elaborate effects being produced 
by weaving ground cloth in colors 
either harmonizing with or contrast- 
ing to that of the tuck. 

Two different numbers of filling are 
used in this fabric, namely, a fine one 
for the plain ground or flat part of the 
cloth, and a coarse number for the 
tuck as the tuck is a filling effect, 
and the coarse filling causing it to 
stand out more prominently from the 
ground fabric than would be the case 
if fine numbers of filling were used to 
form the whole fabric. 

In making a common tuck effect two 

Drawing-in Draft. 

ODDGODDB 
DaDDDGBn 

nnnnDBDn 

DDDDBDDD 
DDDBDnoa 

DDBD ana 
amaaaaan 
maauDDan 



□■aBDBna. 
■maBGiia 
DBDaaaaB 
■OBDaaao 
amanamam 
■aaaanac 
Daaaoana 
aaa -aaaa 
aaaanaaa 
aaaoaDaD 
naaaaaaa 
aDaaanaD 
Danaaaaa 
aaaaaDBD 
— aaaaaa 
oaawnan „• 
_:„oaaanB S 

BDBDBDaD -^ 
aBOBDBDB ^ 

anananaD ri 



•o paai 



o naaaaani 



laaai 
uaaanaaa 
aDBDanan 
naDBaBDB 
aaanaaaa 
aaaaGBDa 
anaGBDaa 
DBDWDana 
aaaaaDaa 
nBDaaana 
DaaaDaD 



DBDI 



■ni 



jn«DBD 

nanananB 
BGaaaDan 
aacBGaaa 
BDanaGBG 
DaGaGana 
■naaanaa 
OBGaaaGa 
BDanaGBG 
naGaaana 

BLMUML^MB 



DGGaDGGB W 
DBDGGBaG C 

DDGaGGna -ri 

GBDD BDG -^ 

DDGBCGGH <^ 

DBGGDBGG fi 

DDDBDaGB " 

GaGGDaGD <D 

GGDBGnDB -^ 

GaaanaDG '3 

DaGBGGGB 'T 
DaGDGBDG P 

Gaaaaana <-, 

naGGGBGD B 

DDGBGDOB -^ 

GBaaDBGG u 

DGGaaDGB (D 

DaGGGaaa br 

GnGBGGGB fl 

DBGnaaaa tS 
G DBGona ^ 

aaGGGaGG a 
nnGaGGGB 3 

GBGGGBaa 1 
DGGaaGGB dJ 

DBGaaaaD ^ 

DGGBGOGB cti 

naGGGBGD -tJ 

GDGBGDDB _, 

GBaaGBDD 2 

DDDaDDaa p 

Harness -^ 

Chain t^ 



beams are necessary, also 10 harness 
or heddle shafts. The top beam con- 
taining the tuck warp is drawn in on 
the 2, 4, 6, 8th harnesses, and the bot- 
tom beam, containing ground warp, is 
drawn on 1, 3, 5, 7th harnesses, the 
other two harnesses to work independ- 
ently for selvage, plain weave being 
used all the time. 

The harness or head chain is pegged 
to work all the harnesses plain weave 
at the same time for whatever length 
of plain ground is desired in the cloth 
being woven. "For example, if you 
want 40 picks plain ground cloth be- 
fore weaving" the tuck, simply peg 
the chain plain weave on all harnesses 



for 40 picks. Then to form the tuck 
peg the chain so as to work only tuck 
harnesses for plain weave, for num- 
ber picks necessary to give length of 
tuck desired, the ground harnesses be- 
ing at rest. 

While the tuck harnesses are work- 
ing, the take-up motion is temporarily 
dispensed with by coupling the take-up 
finger to a jack in the head motion by 
running a strap over the top of the 
loom and down the side. After hav- 
ing woven the desired number of picks 
to form the tuck, as the loom turns 
over, all the harnesses are set working 
plain weave, and as the first pick of 
the chain operates the head motion, 
tne take-up finger drops, the take-up 
motion is again in gear, and the reed 
beats in, the pick binding the turn and 
throwing it out from the ground fab- 
ric. 

This fabric is generally made to 
finish from 214 to 3% ounces and 27 
inches wide. 

CONSTRUCTION COMMON TUCK. 

1,300 reed, 2 ends per split, 1 end per 
heddle, 29 inches width in reed, includ- 
ing selvage; 1036 plus 16 splits, 2072. 
plus 64 ends. Ground warp and tuck 
warp, l-40s cotton; 70 picks per 
inch 1-40S cotton filling. 7 per cent 
shrinkage in width in weaving and 
finishing; 10 per cent shrinkage length 
finishing and weaving. 

Tuck pattern: 46 picks l-40s cotton 
for plain ground; 32 picks 2-20s cot- 
ton for tuck. Selvedge, 4 in a heddle 
and split. Finish, about 31/2 ounces. 



SCRIM. 



Scrim. A loose woven, flimsy-look- 
ing cloth, composed entirely of two-ply 
cotton yarn, both warp and filling, and 
resembles a fine meshed fish net. 



Scrim is usually made in bright col- 
ored stripe and plaid effects. It is pe- 
culiarly adapted to the draper's art, as 
it is a light-weight creation, therefore 
soft and pliable; it is also used as a fly 
net for horses in the summer time. 

Scrim is made of 2-20s cotton, dry 
color, in both warp and filling, and as 
a fabric requires nothing in the nature 
of a finish except being run through a 
hot press, simply to smooth the wrin- 
kles which may occur during the pro- 
cess of weaving. 

By using 3-lOs and 4-lOs cotton warp 
and filling, and of course in proper pro- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



portions, we produce hammocks and 
material for laundry bags with this 
same scrim weave, or, to be correct, 
gauze weave. Scrim can be woven in 
any power loom, but best results are 
obtained by using a light running loom 
such as Bridesburg or Mutual. The 

SCRIM WEAVE OR LACY EFFECT 
can be produced by using a regular 
doupe set of harness, but the best, 
quickest and cheapest method is by us- 
ing an attachment known as theAshofl 



2 a 



4tb 
Srd 
2.id 
1st pick 



I r 

fen 





s . 


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ri } 1 1 1 1 1 n 



Ground harness 

of Doupe set 
Grouud harness 

Standard 
Skeleton harness 

Reed plan 



Harness 
chain. 



This weave applies to a fabric (scrim) in which 
the Doupe set is working every pick, and each Warp 
thread workin? with a mate thread, and producing 
perfect Leno pffect. 

NOTE. In drawing in the Ground thread crosses 
over tlie Doupe thrt ad. 

motion, which is an improved set of 
harness or heddle and heddle shafts 
built especially for this kind of effects 
in cloth. This motion consists of 
two heavy wooden frames built sim- 
ilar to heddle frames and suspended in 
the loom from the top roller, in the 
manner in which old roller looms were 
equipped for weaving gingham. 

In place of heddles these frames are 
filled with a coarse reed, in accordance 
with number of splits per inch re- 
quired for fabric; these reed dents are 
plugged with lead, alternately top and 
bottom, and two ends are drawn 
straight through both harnesses. 



THE ASHOFF MOTION 
makes a shed in the regular roller 
loom style or by treddle or cam, and 
has likewise a sideway movement, 
which is obtained by placing a small 
eccentric on the bottom loom shaft. 

Near the side of loom this eccentric 
is connected by a one-half inch iron rod 
with a pair of bevel gears which are 
fastened on the loom frame at a point 
equal to the centre of the shed. These 
gears are in turn coupled by smaller 
rods to the heddle frames, and create 
the side motion, which allows the 
threads to operate in a sort of rolling 
motion or, in other words, each thread 
rolls half-way round its mate thread 
and the filling pick, binding it in, and 
on the next pick the roll is reversed, 
and this creates the lacy effect. Use 
regular 2-20s cotton yarns and set 
the warp about 44 inches in the reed, 
20 ends and 20 picks per inch; will 
weigh about l^/^ ounces and measure 
about 36 inches wide from loom. 

FOR LAUNDRY BAGS 

use 4-lOs cotton in the gray; set 30 in- 
ches in reed, three ends and three picks 
per inch; will run 25 inches from loom; 
no finish. 

In hammocks very elaborate effects 
are made with the scrim weave as ap- 
plied to the Knowles or Crompton har- 
ness loom. Diamond twill and fancy 
colors are a favorite combination and 
make good selling line. 

4-lOs cotton yarn (warp filling) ; 42 
inches in reed; 14 ends per inch; one 
end per dent; 14 picks; stripe patterns. 
No finish as cloth is made into ham- 
mocks straight from loom. 



HAMMOCK CRASH. 



This cloth, as the name implies, is 
used in the making of hammocks. It 
is m^ade strong and durable to stand 
the strain and wear that it is subjected 
to and can be woven on almost any or 
dinary loom. It is generally made in 
three grades, viz., best, medium and 
low. 

The best grades are generally made 
on the jacquard loom, so that very 
elaborate patterns may be introduced. 

A 400 tie-up is generally used, but 
any tie may be used according to the 
requirements of the design and quality 
of the cloth. 

The warp is generally composed of 
three or four or more colors of yarn, 
the colors being very bright and con- 
trasting, such colors as green, r^d. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



gold and black taking a prominent 
part. 

The design is generally an extensive 
and elaborate one and in stripe form, 
but designs of the following character 
are soLoetmies employed, with particu- 
lars as follows: 



um^ 



Warp: % cotton, as sampie, zO ends 
per 1 in., 10 x 2 reed, 46 in. wide in 
reed. 

Filling: % cotton, as sample, 18 
picks per 1 in. 

The warp is woven with an even 
tension and where a gauze or leno 
weave is used, two or more beams are 
necessary and the necessary slackners 
etc. 

When the warp is composed of sev- 
eral colors of yarn, the filling is gen- 
erally used undyed or in one solid 
color. 

Semi-fancies (generally of medium 
quality) and plain or lower grade 
cloths may be woven on harness looms 
(16 to 24 harness being employed). 
Plain or lower grade cloths are some- 
times woven in looms having a cross- 
weaving or gauze-reed attachment 
when the weave is a gauze or leno, 
which is generally the case. 

These cloths (medium grade) are 
not made as strong and compact as 
the first quality; the particulars being 
as follows: 

Warp: 14 ends per 1 in., % cotton, 7 
X 2 dent reed. 

Filling: 12 picks per- 1 in., % cot- 
ton. 

The weave is generally a semi-fancy 
one, i. e.. plain weave for 2 in. or 3 in. 
and then a gauze stripe or gauze 
stripes at irregular intervals across 
the warps. The colorings in warp are 
similar to the first grade colorings, 
and the design is less elaborate, some- 
times on the following order: 




Repeat several times. 



The cheapest qualities are much. 
lighter in weight and more open in tex- 
ture, the particulars being as follows: 

Warp: 8 ends per 1 in., % cotton, 8 
dent reed x 2; mess every other dent. 

Filling: 7 picks per 1 in., % cotton. 

The weave is generally a gauze one, 
one that is largely used, being 3 picks 
plain and 1 pick gauze. 

This quality is often made with un- 
dyed cotton warp and filling and is 
dyed in the piece a solid color. It 
may also be made with colored warp 
LiTireads, but on account oi the scarcity 
of warp threads less effective results 
are obtained than are obtained in the 
first two grades. 

A typical sample is herewith en- 
closed, but is a little better quality 
than the particulars given refer to. 

These cloths are generally made by 
manufacturers who make up their own 
cloths into hammocks and sell in this 
form. 

They require no finishing, as they 
are made up into hammocks in the 
condition as taken from the looms, ex- 
cept in cases where the goods are to 
be dyed. 

DRAPERY FOR HAMMOCKS. 

In making hammocks, hangings or 
draperies are employed and these 
cloiths are closely related to the ham- 
mock cloth. They are made on the 
same looms as hammock cloths and 
are of the same texture. 

The yarn used is the same generally, 
but the oloth need not be as strong as 
the body cloth. The ends and picks 
per 1 in. may be a little lowar. The 
drapery cloths are made two in a 
width, there being 12 in. or 14 in. of 
the reed empty between the two cloths. 
The filling is thrown across m the 
regular manner, and when the cloth is 
woven, the filling is cut in the oentre 
of space between the cloths and the 
ends thus formed constitute the fringe 
of the hangings, which ifringe is 
knotted in various ways to make the 
hanging more effective. 

In order to secure the warp threads 
at the inside edge of drapery while 
weaving, the two ends nearest the 
fringe side are made to cross each 
other in weaving and make a firm sel- 
vage tor the actual cloth. 

The warp yarn may be either in 
colored stripe form or solid color, and 
the filling solid color, or both warp and 
filling may be in undyed state and 
dyed in the piece when n^oven. 

The draperies are made to match tae 
body, similar colorings and designs be- 
ing employed. 

WEAVES TO EMPLOY. 
The best qualities have generally 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



jacquard effects, and as the texture is 
Qot so compact, the plain weave must 
be used extensively in ground, the 
figure being either 5 harness satin or 
3—1 twill. 

The medium qualities as made on 
harness looms have weaves of the fol- 
lowing character, the p'lain weave be- 
ing conspicuous in order to make a 
firm cloth: 

■■aBaHDBaDDBaBDD 

D»aBaHDaHDBaaa 

DDBBDBBaDBDBDBDI 
BO jBBBDDBDBaODBD 

aBDaBaDBaBQDBaaa 
BaBDaaBaBQDBBBaa 

DBDB IflnBODBBGBBa 

aaaaa .BaDBaaBDBB 

BGDaGBaDBBaaDBDa 
GDBDBaaBBDBDBDBB 
DBDBODBBDBDBaBBD 
BDBaaBBDBDBDBBDD 
DBDDBBaBDBDBBGDB 
BDBGGBBOBGBBGGBG 
UBGBGOEBDBBDGBGB 
DGBnBaGHBBGDBGaa 

aaaasaanaBDDBDBDD 

BBJDBnBGCDBGBDGB 

GB 9G JaaBDAaBGaaa 

BGBnDGBDBaaGGBBD 
DBDBBGnBGBG BBGB 
BnsOBBGGBna GBBD 
DBDBGaaaGaGBGaBB 

BGsnanBBacBDBDGa 

Low grade cloths are made almost 
exclusively wit^. the gauze weave, the 
following being a typical one: 



^Sfe 




MADRAS. 



Madras is a light-weight cotton 
cloth, composed of all cotton or cotton 
and silk, and is a single cloth fabric, 
having excellent wearing qualities. 

It has been on the market for many 
years and is considered a staple in the 
cotton goods line. It is a narrow fabric 
sold at 27 inches width, and is made of 
varying grades, weighing from two 
ounces to three ounces per yard, and is 
used at all seasons of theyear. It is used 
by the ladles for summer skirts, shirt- 
wait suits, etc.; by men for shirts, 
shirt bosoms,and four-in-hand and bow 
neckties. It is also used as a drapery in 
workmen's homes for windows, etc. 

It is known by the plain white ground 
and fancy colored narrow stripe warp 
effects and is made of cotton yarns 
ranging from l-26s to l-80s warp and 



filling, and from 50 to 100 or more ends 
per inch. The knowledge of the util- 
ity of madras being common among 
most all classes of people, permits of 
the greatest scope in creating both har- 
monious and contrasting color and 
weave combinations, simplicity in col- 
or arrangement being generally the 
keynote to success in producing an ele- 
gant, good-selling line. 

COLORS. 

Those colors most in demand, which 
have been adapted to this fabric, are 
rich and delicate shades of blue, rose, 
green, linen, tan, lavender, ecru and 
bright red. 

Foir prominent hair line effects use 
black, navy blue, dark green, royal 
blue and cherry red. Good fast color 
is necessary in making madras as it is 
a wash fabric, the feature of which is 
the fine colored stripe effect running 
warp ways. 

If inferior colors are used, they will 
surely spread during the finishing 
process, and will cause a clouded stripe 
where a distinct one was intended, 
thereby causing a pile of seconds. Ma^- 
dras used in making men's stiff bosom 
shirts,which retail at $1.50 and upward, 
in most cases is made entirely with a 
plain weave. 

Sometimes the colored stripe is de- 
veloped by doubling up in the heddle 
and reed (by drawing in two or more 
ends in one heddle, and the threads of 
several heddles in one split in the reed). 

ANOTHER METHOD. 

Another method is to weave thfe 
colored warp threads on other harnesses 
than those of the body oif the cloth, 
using a twill weave on these harnesses, 
and by doing so create a perfect cord 
in the cloth. 

High-grade patterns are usually 
formed by making a plain white stripe 
from 1/^ inch to 1% inches in width, 
and the colored stripe of 2, 4, 6, 8 ends. 
In using any of these numbers of 
ends, the width of the colored stripe 
is governed by the fineness of reed, and 
method of drawing through the reed, 
consistent with the weave effect de- 
sired. 

Madras is usually made on either 
the old roller loom, or the more modern 
dobby loom. 

Fancy madras is made more success- 
fully on the dobby loom, 20-harness ca- 
pacity covering most all combinations 
used in this line. 

A good grade of madras is made by 
using l-30s cotton warp and filling. 

1.200 reed, two ends per dent: 311^ 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



inches in reed; 56 picks, l-30s filling; 
finish, 27 inches; weight, 2% ounces. 

WARP PATTERN. 

14 White l-30s"| 

1 White 2-40S ^ Plain weave. 
U White l-30sj 

4 Rose l-SOs Basket weave. 

10 White 1-30S. .Plain weave. 

4 Green l-30s. ..Basket weave. 

47 

Finish for madras: Run through 
washer, cylinder (to dry cloth), ten- 
tering machine, calender or press. 



Finishing Particulars. 

Starch, 6 ounces cornstarch, 2 
ounces white cocoanut oil softening, 1 
gallon water. Calender with light 
calender mach.me. 



GINGHAM (Common.) 



Gingham (common) is a single cloth 
composed entirely of cotton and 
always woven with a plain weiave; 
it is the most universally known- 
fabric on the market and is made- 
in various grades, having from 50 
to 76 ends per inch In the reed and of 
l-26s*to l-40s cotton yarns in both 
warp and filling. It is a wash fabric, 
made in both check and plaid patterns, 
into whicii an almost unlimited variety 
of color combinations are introduced. 
It is most commonly used in the manu- 
facture of ladies' and children's aprons 
and summer outing dresses. 

It can be woven in any power loom- 
having a box motion attached but is 



Design. 



aBDBDaaaaaDBDaDaaaaaDaDBaaaannDBanBDaDaDBaBDDBa 
BDBaanBDBOBaaDffiDaDBaaDaaaaBDBDaBBBOBDaaBaBDGDaa 

aaOBDBDflaaaaDBDBaaDBDBDBDaDaOBBDaDBDBDaaBDBBBDD 

BnaDaaaaaDBaBaEBaaGaDBDaDaaaDaaaDGaoaaaaaaaDaaaa 



Harness Ohain. 

DBDaOB 



One repeat. 



BDBDDB' 

aansBG 
aaacBD 



Drawing-in Draft. 

□nnDnnnoaaDnnnonDDnDaDnnDDnnannaaDnnDDDDaDDDnKB 
DDDDGD 'DannDnnDDnDnDDDncDODnDBanDnnDnnDDDcnBBDn 
pnDBDnnBDanBODDaDDOBnnDBDnnBnDDnnDaDDDBDDDBrcon 
ODBDnaBDaDBnaDBnanannnBDnDBn DnDnBnnDBDDDBDDDnn 

nBnnDBDODBGGDBDnDBnDGBDnnBDnDnDDnDDDBnCnBDCnDDD 

BonnBDnnBnnnBnDnBDDnBDDDBDnnBnDncDCBnDQBDDDGnno 
Reed Plan. 



Note. — Design is two repeats in filling, and Is intended to^ show connec- 
tion betweem first and second repeat. 



Dyeing Particulars for Madras. 

Following are dyeing particulars 
for good madras shades: 

LIGHT GREEN. 

Mordant yarn with 2 per cent tannic 
acid. Give 5 turns and fix with 2 per 
cent tartar emetic. Wash well. Dye 
1 per cent new methylene blue G G, 
^ per cent thioflavine T. Wash well. 

PINK. 

Mordant yarn with 2 per cent tannic 
acid. Give 5 turns and fix with 2 per 
cent tartar emetic. Wash well. Dye 
9 ounces acridine red 6 B, 3 oimces 
rhodamine 3 G. C. Bischoff & Co. 
Wash well. 



most successfully made in Fairmount,, 
Bridesburg, Mutual Mason 4x1, Cromp- 
ton 6x1 gingham loom,or 4x1 box, roll- 
er loom, using four harness or heddle 
shafts, and having as a selvage eight 
double ends on each side. 

Gingham warps are made in two 
lengths, 720 yards and 1,080 yards, and 
these lengths being sulDdivided into 
shorter lengths or cuts, usually 14 and 
21, respectively. 

When a gingham warp is woven out 
the set of harnesses or heddles, it is 
taken out of the loom, and is placed in 
a twisting frame and twisted, an opera- 
tion which means the fastening to- 
gether, by means of the fingers, of those 
ends remaining in the set of harness, 
and those of the new warp. A practised 



10 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



operator can accomplisli this work at 
tihe Tate of 50 to60 ends per minute, and 
he is generally a boy of perhaps 16 
years of age. 

Loom fixers each have a section of 
loomis numibering 60, to care for and 
keep in good running order. 

FINISHING GINGHAMS. 

Tihe goods are taken from the loom 
and conveyed to the warero'am.and the 
ends of several pieces or cuts are 
sewn (chain stitch) together on a sew- 
ing machine, thus making a continu- 
ous length of cloth of several hundred 
yards, about 300 yards. (This is done 
to facilitate handling.) 

It is now run through the sprinkler, 
the object of which is to dampen the 
cloth in such a manner as to improve 
its receptive qualities in the sizing op- 
eration. 

The sprinkler is a machine having a 
box arranged on its top. Through this 
box is passed a roller having bristles 
S'et on end at regular intervals, similar 
to the brush in a carpet sweeper; the 
box is fed with water by means of a 
small pipe, and the cloth on entering 
the cinachine passes over the roller 
brush, which in revolving comes in con- 
tact with the water, and spreads it over 
the cloith, which is drawn through the 
machine by means of delivery rollers at 
the opposite end. 

From the sprinkler, it goes to the 
size tubs, where it is given a good 
amount of starch sizing. It is next run 
through the cylinders to dry it, and 
then run through the tentering machine, 
which operation is a continuing of the 
drying process, alsio stretching the 
cloth in width. It is then passed 
through the calender, which is a sort 
of hot press, and in which operation it 
is smoothed, and receives the desired 
glaze on the face of the cloth. From 
the calender the cloth goes to the lap- 
ping machine, where it is rolled 
around a small wooden board .known as 
a lapboard, the operator making a bolt 
of each cut of cloth, the length of 
which is governed by the subdivision 
of warp. 

After the lapping operation, the clath, 
which is now in the shape of a bolt 
(commercial term), is taken by the 
folder, w'ho unravels a couple of yards 
and doubles it up, and neatly rolls It 
back in place, while he tucks in the 
ends. The bolt is then stitched with a 
strong cord, twice thro'Ugh each end; 
the ends are then singed with a gas 
flame to remove odd scraps of filling 
threads. The bolts of cloth are then 
placed in a plate press in the following 
order: three or four bolts are laid flat 



side by side in the press, and a zinc or 
other metal plate placed upon them. 
This is repeated until the press is filled 
with desired number of pieces or bolts, 
the top of the press is then run down 
by means of a belt connecting with a 
driving shaft, and the goods allowed to 
remain in this condition several hours, 
after which the paper bands are placed 
around them and they are ready for 
shipment. The following is a list of 
standard gingham patterns, known as 
two shuttle checks and usually made in 
blue, brown, green, black, red, colons. 
Warp and filling: 2-2, 4-4, 6-6, 8-8, 10- 




Gingham. 

10. 12-12, 14-14, 16-16, 18-18, 20-20, 24- 
24, the pattern reading: 

2 Blue 24 Blue f t^^^ ^^ filling. 

2 White " 24 White i ^ ^ " 

For side pattern effects use same 
colors: 

4—2, 8—4, 6—4, 10—6, 20—10, 



10—6—2—6 



6—4—2—4 



Read in this manner; 
10 Blue -1 

6 White j 

Staple ginghams are known to the 
mill man as 900, 1,200, 1,400, meaning 
900 reed, 1,200 reed, 1,400 reed. Those 
made with a 1,400 reed are usually in- 
tended as an Imitation of zephyr ging- 
hams. 

A good grade of ginghams can be 
made thus: reed, 900 — two ends per 
dent; 29 inches in width; 44 picks fill- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



11 



ing. Finish, 27 inches. Check pattern. 
Weight about 2.1 ounces; l-26s cotton 
warp and filling. Plain weave. 

A better grade thus: reed, 1,200 — two 
ends per dent; 29 inches in width; 52 
piclis filling. Finish, 27 inches; weight 
2% ounces; l-30s cotton warp and fill- 
ing; generally stripe pa;tterns; plain 
weave. 

A fine grade thus: reed, 1,400 — 
two ends per dent; 29 inches in width; 
€0 picks filling. Finish,27 inches; weight 



|2. 



liw 









Design. 

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pDDDDaDBQBUBuDLJGuDaBDBDB 
nLlDDDaBG«a«ULjDUDuD«D«DBD 
naDDDaUBUBDBDkjDDDDUBDBDB 
DDQDaQBD«Di»aLjaDaDDBDBDBa 

aflaaaiBBBB'acBnBCiMBBaBB 
■QHaBaaa^BBiiBaBGaaBaaaaa 
aanaaaa^SBjaaaaaa. aaaaaaa 
aoaaaaiSSffiEEJffiaaaaDaDaaaaBa 
DBOBaBBSEBajBaaaaaDaaBBBBB 

ananDonBaBnBDnDnannBaBDB 

DnaDaDBDBaBDDDnnnDBOBDBD 

c nnDDaaBnBDBnnDnnDDBDBDB 
nnnnDDBDBaBDDDDDanBDBDBn 
DDDananBaB" BDDDnnnaBDBDB 

DDDDnDBDiaBDDaaDaDBDBDBa 
nBnflOBmiBBDBDBDBBBBBBB 
BaBDBDBBBBBBBDBaBaBBmBBB 
DBDaaaaBBBBBDBaBDBBSSBBB 
BaBDBDaaaBBaBDBDBDmSffiaSB 
aBDBDBBBIiaBBaBDBaHSSSBB 
BaBaBaBBBBBBCBaBOBBBSBBB 

six six 
white black 



aDBBDnBBDDBBnDBBDaBBGaBB 9^ Z 
BBDDBBGaBBDaBBaaBBaDBBaD ^ S 



nnDnaDDBDDnBnnnannnBDaDB -7 
nnanDDBGODBannDDODBanDBD >\, 
aBaaaBaaaBaaoBGGDBaGaBDa S . 
■aaanaanBGDGBaaGnDanBGGa .a *i 
DGaDGGaaGDjGaaBDBGaa dog > "tJ 
DGDDaDaaaanGGaDBaaaGaaaa S £ 
aGBGBaGaoaaGaaGaaaanaGGn £ ^ 
GCDBDaDnDaaaaaaaDaanDnna p H 



GBGBBBnBGBOBDBGBGBGBBBBB m 
„_^I,P_„_„_„_„_„_„ „ _. 

IQI 



BGBGBGBGBGBGBGBGBGBGBBBC 



LJi^QBOLl— l^BB^IH^I— ]^l_J^l-JHBLJ^LJiHUJiH '*' _j 

BGBDBGBDBBBOBGBGBGBDBGBG S S 

BGBGBOBljBGBGBGBGBGBGBDBG ^ ^ 

OBDBGBGBGBGBGBGBGBGBDBGB ^ O 
BGBaBGBGBaBGBGBDBDBGBava ffi 
GBDBDBDBDBGBDBGBGBGBaBGB " 



'2 =^ 

> 'on 
a 



(V) 'Q 
TO <U 



0=2 



two ounces; l-40s cotton warp and fill- 
ing. Cheek or plaid pattern, plain 
weave. 

Ginghams are made with from two 
colors, warp and filling, to edght colors 
in warp and six in filling. 

The 1,200 grade is occasionally made 
up in spotted Check effect or say six 
black, six white, having a small dia- 
mond-shaped figure at regular inter- 
vals, produced in dobby looms. 

Another style, having great vogue 
some 10 years ago is known as apron 
ginghams, made in 900 gnade, and hav- 
ing about three-quarters of the width of 
the cloth woven in a small check, 4x4, 



and the remainder having a large pat- 
tern, with a woven check in the 
filling. It is usually made in 
two colors, and made 36 inches in reed. 
Reed 900 — two ends per dent; 36 
inches in reed; 44 picks filling. Finish 
:^4 inches; l-26s warp and filling. Plain 
weave. 



Warp pattern. 

t WMte }"8% '*-- 



Filling pattern. 
1348 ends. | Whit. 



5 Blue 
2 Whin T Read from top to bottom then reverse. 

6 Blue 
10 White 
1* Blue 
22 White 
10 Blue 
1» White 

8 Blue 

2 White 
S2 Blue 

2 White 

4 Blue 
10 White 

2 Blue 
16 White 

2 Blue 
10 White 

4 Blue 

2 White 
40 Blue J 



ends s 2 = 444 ends in border. 
1348 in ground. 

1792 + 8 ends blue. 



Blue for Ginghams. 

Following are the dyeing particulars 
of a good blue for a gingham (com- 
mon). 

For 100 pounds yarn, 1st bath: 6 
pounds iramedial indone 3B cone; 12 
pounds sodium sulphide crystals; 4 
pounds grape sugar (glucose); 3 
pounds soda ash; 4 pounds common 
salt. 

For standing bath; 3 pounds imme- 
dial indone 3B cone; 6 pounds sodium 
sulphide crystals; 1% pounds glucose, 
% pound soda ash. 

Immedial indone 3B cone is one of 
the Cassella Color Co.'s colors. Should 
a bluer shade be required, a little im- 
medial indone B cone can be added. If ' 
a greener shade is needed, a little im- 
medial yellow D can be added. 

Dye for one hour, turning the goods 
several times, then squeeze off well by 
means of the squeezing rollers at- 
tached to one end of the vat, and level 
by wringing off rapidly at the wring- 
ing post. 

Then age the yarn three-quarters of 
an hour, rinse well and soap if re- 
quired. Uniform and careful squeez- 
ing and wringing off are essential to 
ensure good levelness of the dyeings. 

Immedial indone 3B cone and B cone 
are excellently suited for the produc- 
tion of every shade of indigo, both for 
light shades when dyed by themselves, 
and for medium and darker shades 
when dyed in combination with im- 
medial direct blue, or the other brands 



12 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



of imn-.edial indoiie. By reason of theii 
simple method of application they de- 
serve the special attention of all 
branches of cotton dyeing. 

FINISHING FOR GINGHAMS. 

Starch: 2-8 ounces cornstarch; 4-8 
ounces white softening; 1 gallon 
water; mix cold, boil half an hour. 

White softening is from cocoanut 
oil. Pieces are run through a starch 
mangle and on to a cylinder drying 
machine. They are then damped on a 
spi-inkler machine and given a light 
calendering. 



CRASH. 



Crash is a single cloth fabric, com- 
posed of all-cotton yarns, or of cotton 
and jute. It is used principally for 
toweling and as a covering for fine car- 
pets. In some of the southern states 
it fis made with a plain weave, and 
worn as a summer men's wear fabric, 
as it is cheaper than linen. 

It is usually made of l-14s, l-16s, 1- 
20s cotton warp and filling, and some- 
times of 1-lOs and l-12s cotton. As a 
carpet covering, it is woven In a nar- 
row loom, and has either broad oi nar- 
row stripes in the warp, of fancy col- 
ored dyed yarns, dark red and dark 
blue being common colors. The ground 
of the cloth is made of cotton yarns in 
the gray, or unbleached state. This 
falaric has the 

APPBARANCE OF LINEN, 
due to the heavy isizing, and calender- 
ing in finishing. Small warp effect 
twill weaves are used, such as 
2 — 1, either right or left hand, 
and running at 45 degrees. 
l-16s cotton warp and filling crash 
toweling is made of yarns both in the 
gray and bleached state, generally 
about l-14s cotton warp and filling, in 
widths varying from 15 inches to 24 
inches finished, either all bleached or 
with Slide and cross borders, or in what 
is known as 

HAIR-LINE PLAIDS. 
Rarely any colors, exoeipiting red or 
navy blue, are used in toweling. 

THE SAME WEAVES 
are used in this line as in ordinary lin- 
ens, namely, the plain weave or 1 
up and 1 down, in the commoner 
grades. But for bathing purposes, 
where a rough toweling is sometimes 
required, there is the bird's-eye or 
huckaback weave — also the eight-end 
honeycomb weave. Toweling, having 



as a design floral or scroll figures, is 
made on narrow looms, having a jac- 
quard machine attached; this sort is 
used for bureau scarfs. 
Crash can be 

WOVEN ON ANY POWER LOOM. 

The kind of loom necessary to produce 
any certain grade of crash is governed 
by tlfe construction of weave effect de- 
sired, as, for instance, either the plain 
weave or twill weave effects are best 
adapted to the roller or caim loom; .the 
more complicated fancy weaves, such 
as huckaback and honeyctimb, ne- 
cessitate the use of a dobby loom. 

TO FINISH CRASH, 

it is first run thrioiugh a siprinkler, to 
dampen it; then it is put throug'h the 
sdze tub and rather heavily sized, 
after whidh it is run through a dryer. 
From the dryer it goes to the calen- 

HUCKABACK DESIGN. 

nnnaaaDBna nnna 

nnaaaiiaaiBa aanaaaanna nataa 

aaDBDB: Mam nDDGananan nnHHDDBaan nana 
BQaDBDaDBD DBaaaGaGQa naGUBBDDBa aaaa 
aBBBDanaaa aaaaDDaaca aaaa 

aoBDaGaaaa acaa 

Design Drawing-in Draft Reed Plan Harness Chaia 

HONEYCOiMB DESIGN. 

DBDBDBDD DDBOI 



BDsaaDaa 

DBDBDBGn 

DDaaaann 



DBGBB GGGaDDDn 
BDBBB GGBDaGGD 
DBBBB DBGGGBGG 

aaaar anaanGBG 

DBGBB DDGGGGGB 

GDBGB 
DDOBG 
Harness Chain Drawing-in Draft 

DnBBDGBB 

BBGGBBGG 

Reed Plan 



ders, in which machine the gas-heated 
top roller acts upon the sizing and pro- 
duces the rather glazed effect on the 
face of the cloth. 

Cras'h toiwelling using huckralback 
weave: reed 850, 2 ends per dent; 18 
inches wide; 1-1 6s cotton warp and fill- 
ing (bleaicih); 46 picks of filling; finish 
16^^ inches; weight, 1.85 ounces. 

To make a softer feel, use one-half 
number of picks and wind l-16s and 1- 
20s (1 end of each) on same bobbin, 
and weave it in; this also' increases 
the mottled effect. 

Crash tiowelimg using honeycomb 
weave; reed 850, 2 ends per dent; 20 
inches wide; 2-20s cotton warp and fill- 
ing (bleach); 44 picks of filling; loom 
width, 16 ounces; no finlislh; weight, 3i/4 
ounces. Use dobby loom for eadi of 
these fabrics. 

In making honeycomlb toiweMng, if 
using a cross border, the Crompton 
double cylinder or two-weave dobby is 
the most convenient, as the border 
weave and the body weave each has 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



li 



its separate harness chain, and is 
worked from the box chain. 



THE FINISHING. 

Detailed Description of the Process of 

Crash Finishing. 

To finish- a piece of crash ready for 
the market: If the piece is clean 
enough and a cheap rough finish is 
required, the first process is starching. 
A very light starch liquor is necessary, 
to one gallon of water, two to six 
ounces of cornstarch, one-half to one 
pound cocoanut oil softening. Mix in 
cold water and boil together for 30 min- 
utes. The pieces are passed through 
a starch mangle at full width, over a 
drying machine of steam cylinders. 
They are then passed through a light 
calender to straighten the goods out, 
and smoothed down a little. They are 
then folded up, packed in cases and 
shipped away. 

The goods can be bleached, each 
piece being placed separately in a 
kier, or the ends sewed together and 
the goods run into a kier, with a 4 de- 
gree Tw. solution of caustic soda, and 
boiled six to eight hours. 

The goods are then run through 
A WASHING MACHINE 
and returned to the kier, and the soda 
boil repeated for eight hours. The 
goods are run through a washing ma- 
chine, and through a solution of oil of 
vitriol 1^ degree Tw., washed again, 
and run through a solution of chloride 
of lime at i^ degree Tw., piled in a 
bin for eight hours, run through an 
acid solution of oil of vitriol i/^ degree 
Tw., and well washed till all trace of 
acid is eliminated. If any acid is left 
in the goods, the goods, being very 
heavy, will be tender, as they will re- 
tain so much acid when dried on the 
drying machine, they will have the 
fibre of the cloth injured. The goods 
are then starched with four to six 
ounces to a gallon of cornstarch, one- 
half pound cocoanut oil, white soften- 
ing. This is to add a little fullness to 
the cloth without making it too stiff 
and starchy. The goods . are then 
dried on a tenter frame at full width, 
to keep them straight and have the 
weft perfectly straight across the 
piece. 

If required, they are then given a 
light calendering. If a light buff or 
ecru is required, a little color is added 
to the starch liquor, or the goods are 
dyed on a iigger machine, or on a 
padding machine. 

These goods will stand a great 



amount of wearing, and look dressy 
and chic, without being too expensive. 



DOMET OR OUTING CLOTH, 



Domet, or outing cloth, is a single 
cloth, composed of single cotton yams, 
generally 1-20 to 1-26 warp yarn, and 
l-14s or l-16s cotton or cotton and cot- 
ton shoddy mixed filling yarns. It is 
made in bright colored stripe and plaid 
patterns, and is used in the manufac- 
ture of shirts, pajamas, etc., and is al- 
ways woven with a plain weave, or 1 
up, 1 down. 

In effect it is a fabric having 

A SOFT, REGULAR NAP 
on both sides of the goods and in ap- 
pearance is very similar to a flannel. 
The nap is produced by carding or 




Domet. 

brushing up the loose outside fibres 
on a rather slack twisted filling yarn, 
by running the cloth through a nap- 
ping machine. 

The napper is a machine consisting 
of a series of wooden rollers, through 
which the cloth passes, as the machine 
is working, automatically. The brush 
roller, that part of the machine which 
raises the nap, is a wooden cylinder 
covered with wire card clothing, and 
is in fact the same as a fancy on a 
woolen card. This brush roller is set 
on the top of the machine near the 
centre, and is so arranged that the 
cloth passes between it and a wooden 
or other solid roller or cylinder, and 
as the brush roller revolves, the wire 
teeth in the card clothing come in con- 
tact with the surface of the cloth and 
as they are running in opposite direc- 
tions, the filling being the softest, the 
natural result is a nap being raised. 



14 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



A domet fabric may have either a 
high or long nap, or a short or close 
nap. 

THE DEGREE OP NAP 

to be produced is governed first hy 
the experienced judgment of the manu- 
facturer in buying a filling yarn whicfi 
will produce the best results, namely, a 
fine nap, with minimum loss Of 
strength as a thread, as a knowledge of 
the amount of filling twist and in a 



Filling loses about V4, per cent of its 
weight during napping process. 







Domet. 

given count, less the percentage of 
twist to create proper degree of slack- 
ness in the yarn, is found convenient 
when buying this kind of yarn. 

Domet is made on a roller or cam 
loom, and as a cloth receives 

NO FINISH, EXCEPTING THE NAP. 
The selling width of the cloth is about 
291/^ inches. During the process or 
napping, a domet loses a small percent- 
age of the filling weight. This waste 
is called fly, as it is used by shoddy 
manufacturers in the production of 
heavy backing yarns. 

Warp colors used in domet stripes: 
dark blue, light blue, light brown, pink 
and light green. 

Filling: all white for stripes, and in 
some grades, cotton and cotton shoddy 
mixed yarns give the fabric a dark 
tone, after the napping. The last- 
named grade is used extensively as a 
working shirt for machinists, as ft 
doesn't show the soiled places very 
readily, and will tear easily if caught 
In the machinery. 

Warp stripe domet: reed 800; 2 ends 
I)er dent, 31% inches, l-22s cotton warp 
yarns, 36 picks. 

1-16S cotton filling, 11 turns twis't 
(will produce good, close nap). 

Selling width, 29^/^ inches. 

Plain weave on four harness; drawn- 
In, 1, 2, 3, 4. 

Weight, 2.3 mrnces, about. 

Amount of filling twist, less about 
15 per cent, will give good results in 
napping. 



■DBaBDHD 
DHDBDHDB 
■DBDaDBQ 

□■DBGiaa 
■DHDanaa 
aaaaaBDa 
aaaGBoaa 

Design 



anaaDDDa 
onaDDDaa 

DaDDDaDD 
aDDGBDDa 



Drawing- in Draft 



Carding Particulars. 

The raw stock used for these goods 
should be American of about 1% inch 
staple. The usual plan of mixing the 
cotton is followed of having the mix- 
ings as large as possible, but no other 
special attention need be given to it. 
At the pickers the only special fea^ 
ture to look out for is 

THE SPEED OF THE BEATER. 

This should be run at above the aver- 
age speed because the cotton used 
generally contains more than the av- 
erage amount of dirt, etc., found in 
cotton. The weight of the lap at the 
front of the finisher picker should be 
heavy. At the card the only special 
features to be careful of are the set- 
tings. These should be open because 
of the weight of the lap put in at the 
card and also because the production 
of this machine with this class of 
goods is large. The most special at- 
tention given to this class of goods is 
at 

THE DRAWING FRi^ME, 

three processes being the usual num- 
ber run. The most important points 
to look out for are as follows : that the 
settings are all right, the top leather 
rolls are properly covered, and that 
they have no channels or are not hol- 
lowed out along their entire length, 
that the top rolls are kept properly 
varnished, that the stop motions are 
properly adjusted, and lastly, that the 
condensing or large front calender 
rolls are set so that the proper 
pressure is brought to bear on the cot- 
ton sliver being passed between them. 
It may be just as well to say 

A FEW THINGS 

here about the drawing frame which 
apply not only to the class of cloth un- 
der description, but also to all cotton 
yarns for all classes of work. Too lit- 
tle attention is given to the drawing 
frame. Just because it is one of the 
most simply constructed machines 
used in the card room, it generally re- 
ceives the least attention. This should 
not be the case, however, because the 
drawing frame, unless properly looked 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



i& 



after, will make a great deal of dif- 
ference to the appearance of the yarn 
made. If the drawing frame is 
properly looked after it will be found 
that the roving being made will be a 
great deal evener than if the drawing 
frames are left to look after them- 
selves. Particular attention should 
always be given to the 

DIFFERENT STOP MOTIONS 

to see that they are doing what is re- 
quired of them. It will be seen that if 
only one stop motion in a head does 
not work properly and allows an end 
to pass through the machine without 
stopping it, the resulting finished 
yarn is going to be lighter at that cer- 
tain part and in this way make an 
uneven yarn. I know that it will be 
said that the drafts and doublings at 
tihe future machines 

WILL HELP TO OVERCOME 

this defect, but if the adjustment were 
made at the drawing frame this par- 
ticular defect would not exist. Per- 
haps a good thing for card-room over- 
seers to paste in their hats would be, 
"Watch your drawing frames, first, 
last and always." We have wandered 
somewhat from the subject under de- 
scription and will conclude the carding 
end of it by saying that no special 
points, outside of the ones generally 
followed, need be given to the making 
of the roving. A great deal of the un- 
evenness of the yarn, if any exists, is 
covered up because the cloth is 
napped. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

The colors in the fabric illustrated 
can be dyed in the yarn or raw stock. 
The dyeing particulars are as follows: 

GRAY. 

For 100 pounds of raw stock for dark 
gray, Cassella Color Co.: 

1st bath: 15 pounds immedial black 
N. G.; 4 ounces immedial yellow D.; 
10 pounds sodium sulphide; 7 pounds 
soda ash; 12 pounds cryst. Glauber's 
salt. 

2d and standing bath: 7 pounds im- 
medial black N. G.; 1 ounce immedial 
yellow D.; 5 pounds so'dium sulphide; 
3 pounds soda ash; 4 pounds cryst. 
Glauber's salt. 

Enter stock, raw cotton, at the boil, 
and keep at 200 degrees P. for one 
hour. 

Wash well with water and squeeze 
through rollers, and repeat operation 
of washing several times, till cotton is 
perfectly clean. 



FOR LIGHT GRAY. 

1st bath: 8 pounds immedial black 
N G, Cassella Color Co.; 3 ounces im- 
medial yellow D, Cassella Color Co.; 
8 pounds sodium sulphide; 6 pounds 
soda ash; 10 pounds cryst. Glauber's 
salt. 

2d and standing bath: 5 pounds im- 
medial black N G; 2 ounces immedial 
yellow D; 5 pounds sodium sulphide; 
4 pounds soda ash; 5 pounds cryst. 
Glauber's salt. 

Enter stock at boil, and keep at 200 
degrees F. for one hour. 

Wash well, as with darker shade. 
The immedial colors of the CasselUv 
Color Co. are absolutely fast to wash- 
ing and sunlight, and are free from 
sulphur, so that thei-e is not the dan 
ger of tendering the fibre as with so 
many of the sulphur colors. 

The immedial colors are gradually 
replacing the direct one-dip colors 
which have had so long a run, aud 
which were used so extensively for the 
last 10 years or more. 

The immedial colors are now made 
into blacks, blues, browns, yellown, 
greens, wines, and very soon there will 
be a full range of shades made, to 
match all colors required in cotton 
goods. The immedial blues are as last 
as the indigo shades so long used for 
all fast colors. 

PINK. 

For 100 pounds raw stock, cotton: 
20 pounds Glauber's salt; 2 pounds sal 
soda; 5 ounces diamine rose G D. 

Enter at boil and b.oil one hour. 
Wash well in water. 

BLUE. 

For 100 pounds raw stock, cotton: 20 
pounds Glauber's salt; 2 pounds sal 
soda; li/^ pounds diamine blue B X. 

Enter at boil and boil one hour. 
Wash well in water. The diamine rose 
G D and the diamine blue B X are 
from the Cassella Color Co. and are 
very level dyeing colors and very fast 
to light and washing. 

A variety of colors, of course, can be 
used in the dyeing of this fabric. 



ZEPHYR GINGHAM. 



Zephyr gingham is the finest grade 
of gingham made, and is a ligiht-weight 
cotton faibric, compose'd of l-40s to 1- 
60s cotton warp and filling yarns. 

It is woven with either the olain 
weave or a small all-'Over dotoby effect. 
It is made in very attractive patterns 
by using good fast colors in warp and 



16 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



filling, and, as a cloth, has splendid 
wearing qualities. 

From 

TWO TO TEN COLORS 
can be used in boith warp and filling, 
the filling colors being governed by the 
number of shuttles the loom will run, 
and this num!ber is increased by the in- 
troduction of fancy colored, printed 
yarns. 

Zephyr ging'ham is made up into 



p^ 



\l 



TFI 



Zephyr gingham. 

such patterns as lighit and dark tone, 
shaded plaids, corded and ribbed 
stripes, small checks aind broad, deli- 
cately colored plaids, having a random 
printed yarn coloring, and this last 
combination is wo'ven on a dobby loom, 
using as a design a small broken twill 
arrangement. The effect produced is 
something on the order of a jacquard 
pattern. 

MIXED COLOR EFFECTS 
are made by dressing the warp, one 
end white, one end fancy print, for, 




Zephyr gingham. 

say, 100 ends, and then making a ri'b 
by using a satin weave for eight or ten 
ends of a dark color, such as black, 
bine or red brown. This style is made 
in stripes, as stated above, also in 
plaids by using all white filling to croisis 
the one and one dressing in the warp 
and a correspondingly dark colored fill- 
ing squared with the satin rib in the 
warp. 



CORDED EFFECTS 

are produced by drawing in 2, 3, 4. ends 
in one heddle and split, and this is 



Cord Cord 

□■aaaBDDDHoaDBnHDBDaMna 
■DBDHaaBBaBaBDaaBnBGaaMa 
aBaBaBaaDBDBDBDBaBaflBBOfl .^ . 

BDBaBUBBBaBDBDBDBaBDGGBD Design. 
DBDBDBaaDBDBaaDBaBDBBBaB 

BaaaaaBaaaBaBaBaaaaaaaBa 
DBDaaaDDaBDBDaDBDaaaBBaa 
aDBaBaaaBDaDBDaDaaaaaaan 

nDaDDDDnDnaJOaDDDDDDDDDn 

DDODnnan. DDDnaGDDnaDODDa 

naDDaDDDDDDCiUDDDDDDDDnDa 

naDDDCDDaDDaaDGnDnDnnnna 
nDDBnnnDnHDaDBDDDBDDDaDB Drawino--ir 

DHDDDBanDnDMD'.^DHDaDBDnna draft 
MDaDaDDDnnanuaBD-DBDnnnn 

DDDDDnDaDaGDnDDDDaDDDDan 
DDnDaDnDDaDnDDDDDDDDDnDn 

nnaa^'DBBBn^BBDnaB aaBaaD Reed Dlan. 

BBDDaaDGaaBD^BBDaBBaDCBa ^^"^"^"^ i)iai.i. 



BDBDBGBDBBIiBnDBBaaBrBDBa 
D iiDHDBDBIIf BDBBBnBCBDBDBDa 

(saacaaBaBBflaaanDBaaDBDBD 
DBaBaBoaaavBaHaaGB^aaaDB nesicD-i 

aGBGBGBaMDBBBBBBa BGBGBG -^^^^b'^- 

GBGaaaaBnaaBawGaaBGBGBDB 

BGaDaDBGBsaGaBaBBGBDBGaa 
GBDBCBGBDBBBBBBBDBGBGBGB 

GGnaDGDnDaaDGnGGaDGaGaGa 

GGGaGGGDaDaDGaaGnGDDGDGn 
L GGGGG 'jaGGGGGGaDraGDGCGD 
QDGaaGGGGDGGDDGGaaGGCGQn 
I. GG -GOGGGG GGGGiSDl GGGLDG 
Q GGGGaGnGGGGaaDGC.-GGGGG 
riGGG I jaGGGQDDMLlDD^LGGQDG 

aGGGaaGrjaGaaaGGGQDn ggdg T-vr-oT,,;r,fr w^ 
DDGGGnaaaaDBaaDGaGGGaaDa J-rawmg-m- 

QGGGGGGGGDB'JlJGQDnGGG GOD Hrnft- 

GGGQGGGDDiaaGGGDDGaGGGaGG araiC. 

QGaaaDQDaSDGGGGGGGGa GL.Da 
GGDOG DBGDGaGGDGCCGBGGQffl 
GGIiaDGBDGGQGaGaaGDBiaGDBia 
GaGGGHaaaDDCGGGGGBGLDBGG 
BGGDBa GGaGGaaGGBiaaGlBG G 
GGDaDGGGGnGGGGGGGGGGGGGG 

gg: GGaGGGGGGQnaaGDaaG::aa 
DGHBGGBBDnGGBaHeGGiEHaGBB Reed nian 
ai[sj_aBaaBaaa.^LjGaHBG^aaaa ■^^'^'^^ uiciu. 



Fancj^ Dobby Weave Zephyr. 

BGBGBGBDaGBBBGDn 

aBGaGaaaGBBBGaaa 

aaaGBGaGBBBBBGaG 

aBaaGBaBGBBBaBu a 

BBBGBBBDBBBDBaGG 
□BGBDBBBDBDBGBDG -ne^iErn 
BGBGBBBDBGBGBGDa J-^t^^'S'i- 
aBGBBBGBGBGBGBGG 
BBBGBBUDBBBGB GG 
DBGBBBDBBiaBBGBDD 

BaaaBaBBBBBaBGaa Harness 

GBBBaaGBBBBBGaGG . 

BBBaBGaGBBBGaGGG cham 

BBBBGBGBDBGBGBGG 

BBBBBGBGBGBGBGDG exactly 

DBBBGBGBGBGBGBGG ,., 

BGBGBGBGBGBaflOGa like 

DBGBaBDBBBDBGBna ■,„„=„.„ 

BGBGBGBBBBBDBGDG design. 

BBGBGBBBBBBBGBGG 

BBBGBBBBBBBBGGGG 

BBBBBBBBGBBBGGGD 

BBBBBBBGBGBBBGGG 

GBBBBBGBGBDBGBGD 

BGBBBGBGBGBGBGDG 

GBDBGBGBGBDBGBDG 

GBGBBGBGBGBGBBGG 

BBBBDBGBGBGBGBGG 

naaGGGGGOGGGCDGa 

DGGGaGGGGGGGGGna 

DGGGGGGGGGGGLBGG 

ODaaGGDaGGGGBaGG 

DGGGGaGGGGGBGGDa 

GGGGGGDOGGBaGGOa 

GaGGGGGnGBOGGGGG 

QGGQaGaGBGGGGGGa 

DGaGQGGBGGGaaaGG T-,„„ „,,•„„. in 

GGGaaGBaGGGGaaGa Drawing-m- 

GGGGGBaGGGaaGGGU 
DGGGBGG CGGGGGQG 
GGGBaGGGGGGGGGGG 
GGBGGGaGGaGGGGGG 
QBaGnGGGGGGOGGGG 
BaGGGGGGGGGGDOGG 
DGGGGGGGGGGGnGGG 
DaDQaGGaGDQGGCGG 
GGBBGOr 



draft. 



DBBGOBBGaBBGCrLGRpp^q nlnn 
■nCBBGGBBGGBBfJJ-'^®®*! plan. 

squared in the filling by using a cor- 
respondingly heavy thread, as, for in- 
stance, 3 ends l-40s warp in one heddle 
and 1 pick of 3-40s in filling. This 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



17 



woiul'd require such a loiom as the 
Kri'O'Wil'eis 4x4 box dabby I'oom. 

For a roJler loom, using plain weave, 
and making a cord, draw warp in, as 
stated above, or make two cords side by 
side by draiwing in two ends per heddle 
and four ends in split, and square this 
by two picks, each of l-20s cotton fill- 
ing. 

Zephyr gingham can be woven on 
any roller loom. Of this style loom the 
4x1 box is the more suitable. For more 
elaborate filling patterns there is tihe 
Crompton 6x1 box gingham loioim, and 
for fancy weave effect take a lo^om 
having a spring bottom dobby motiom 
attached. 

COLORS FOR ZEPHYR. 

Blaick, light blue, dark blue, light 
brown, pink, red, tan, ecru, canary, 
orange, new blue, old gold. Print 
yarns can be obtaJined of almost ainy 
color desired. 

A good grade of zephyr gingham is 
made as follows: 

Reed 1,500, two ends per split, 29 
inches wide, 80 picks; weight, two 
ounces about; l-50s cotton warp and 
filling; finish 27 inches. 



COLOR EFFECT. 


Warp patterr 


L. 


4 Brown. 




4 Blue. 




8 Brown. 




6 Blue. 




6 Brown. . 




8 Blue. 




4 Brown. 




8 Blue 




1 White carri equals 


3 ends. 


8 Blue. 




2 White. 




1 White cord equals 


3 ends. 


2 White. 




4 Blue. 




4 White. 




1 White cord equals 


3 ends. 


4 White. 




2 Blue. 




8 White. 




1 White Cord equals 


3 ends. 


8 White. 




2 Blue. 




4 White. 




1 White cord equals 


3 ends. 


4 White. 




4 Blue. 




2 White. 




1 White cord equals 


3 ends. 


2 White. 




8 Blue. 




1 White cord equals 


3 ends. 


8 Blue. 




4 Brown. 




8 Blue. 





SHADED PLAID. 
Filling same as warp pattern. 

Pattern continued. 
6 Brown. 
6 Blue. 
8 Brown. 
4 Blue. 
4 Brown. 
2 Black. 
4 Brown. 

1 White cord equals 3 ends. 
4 Brown. 
4 Black. 
4 Brown. 

1 White cord equals 3 ends. 
4 Brown. 

2 Black. 

The finish consists of sprinkling and 
of running cloth throug'h very thin siz- 
ing, after whidh it is tenitered and cal- 
endered. 



Carding Particulars. 

Various grades of cotton as well as 
different lengths of staple are used for 
the class of goods described. The 
length of staple used for the former 
goods is aboiut l^^ inches and generally 
American oottoin is used. The mix- 
ings should be as large as possible so 
as to obtain an even yairn. It will be 
at O'nce seen that if small mixings are 
Uised there will be some little diifer- 
enoe in each mixing and just this little 
difference will s'how up in the finished 
yarn. This applies not only to this 
mixing for 'the class of goods described 
but to all mixings for all goods, and 

THE MIXING 

of cotton is one of the most particular 
points of carding, because if different 
lengths of staple aire allowed to be 
mixed together, it is bound to cause 
trouble in addition to uneven yarn. 
Every bale of cotton shomld be sepa- 
rately Bitapled before it is allowed to be 
put into the mixing, and if the staple 
is loinger or shorter than the cotton 
already mixed, it sihould be put one 
side. 

The cotton iShoTild be run through 
openers and two processes of pickers, 
althonigh a great many mills use tliree 
processes; but all the newer plants be- 
ing built have only two processes of 
pickers. The 

SPEED OF THE BEATER 

should be aboiut 1,050 revolutions per 
minute for the opener and 1,500 rev- 
olutions per minute for the breaker 
and 1,450 revolutions per minute for 
the finisher, a 12 to 13 ounce lap be- 
ing made at the finisher picker. 



18 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



The card shiould have closer settings 
than for the- cloth described last week. 
Special aittenitioai should be given to 
the setting of the back plate to the 
licker-in. If this plate is set toO' close 
the' cotton will be broken and 'if set too 
far away will cause bunches to* come 
through. It is always just as well, 
when setting a card for new length of 
stock or changing over, to sample the 
cotton, both before it enters the card 
and after it leaves it, to compare the 
two staples and to see if they are of 
the same length. A good weight per 
yard for sliver at the card for this 
class of gooids is 50 grains. On the 
former grades of the goods under de- 
scrintion 

THE COTTON IS COMBED. 

This, of^ course, means extra expense 
because of the extra machines used, 
but It also makes the yarn evener be- 
cause at the comber all the sihort fibres 
are taken out, leaving all the fibres of 
the same length. When combers are 
used only two processes of drawing 
are regarded, but when the combers 
aire not used for this class of goods 
then three processes of drawing are 
used. For this class of goods only 15 
per cent waste should be taken out at 
the comber. 

At the speeders or fly frames the 
draAvlng sliver is put through the slub- 
ber, Isit intermediate, 2d intermediate 
and fine frames, the finished hank rov- 
ing ranging from 8 to 12 hank. In the 
samples under description the hank 
used would be about 12. Watch the 
settings of the rolls at the fly i'rames 
and see that all your frames are set 
alike. These settings sihoiild be looked 
after all the time and should lapping or 
bunching occur it is a pretty good in- 
dication that something is wrong 
with your roill settings. If many 
frames are being run ou the same 
stock, 

IT IS VERY IMPORTANT 

to have all the change gears the same, 
especially the draft gear. It some- 
times happens that the wrong draft 
gear will be put on one frame and the 
result is that the yarn is delivered to 
the ring spinning room or mule rooim 
uneven. It will als'o cause a great deal 
of trouble in sizing the yarns. This 
trouble is greater if the wrong gear is 
put on one of the 2d intermediate 
frames because the draft gear on these 
machines is seldom changed and you 
might not look here for the trouble 
for a long time and until considerable 
annoyance had been caused. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

The colors in the fabric illustrated 
are dyed in the yarn. The dyeing par- 
ticulars are as folloiws: 

LIGHT TAN. 

For 100 pounds yarn: 12 ounces im- 
medial yellow D pat.; 2 ounces imme- 
dial olive B, pat.; 7 ounces immediai 
cuitch G, pat.; 5 pounds sodium sul- 
phide; 10 pounds oryst. Glauber's salt; 
3 pounds soda ash. Enter yarn at boil 
and boil one hour. Wash well with two 
or three waters. 

ECRU. 

For 100 pounds yarn: 6 ounces im- 
mediai yellow D, pat.; 1 ounce imme- 
diai olive B, pat.; 4 ounces immediai 
cutch G, pat.; 5 pounds sodium sul- 
phide; 10 pounds cryst. Glauber's salt; 
3 pounds soida ash. Enter yarn at boll. 
Boil one hour. Wash weill with two or 
three clean waters. 

LIGHT BROWN. 

For 100 pounds yam: 8 ounioes im- 
mediai brown B, pat. ; 1 pound 4 oumoes 
immediai cutch O, pat.; 5 pounds so- 
dium sulphidei; 10 pounds cryst. Glau- 
ber's salt; 3 pounds soda ash. Enter 
yarn at boil, and boil one hour. Washi 
Weill with two or three waters. 
OLD GOLD. 

For 100 pounds yam: 2 per cent im- 
mediai yellow D, pat.; 6 per oenit so- 
dium sulphide; 12 per cent cryst. Glau- 
ber's salt; 3 per cent soda ash. Enter 
yarn at boil. Boil one hour. Wash 
well with twO' or three waters. 
PINK. 

For 100 pounds yarn: 6 ounces dia- 
mine rose G D, pat. ; 2 poumds sal soda; 
25 pounds Glauber's salt. Enter at 
boil. Boil one hour. Wash well in 
water. 

NEW BLUE. 

For 100 pounds yam: 3 per cent im- 
mediai sky blue powdered oouic; 5 per 
cent sodium sulphide; 10 per cent cryst 
Glauber's salt; 3 per cent soda ash. 

After treated with % per ceot 
biohroime potash; % per cent blue- 
stone. Wash well with water. 
LIGHT BLUE. 

For 100 pounds yarn: IVz per cent 
immediai indone B, pat.; 1% per cent 
immediai sky blue powdered cone; 5 
pounds sodium sulpihide; 10 pounds 
cryst. Glauber's salt; 3 pounds soda 
ash. Enter at 'boil. Boil one hour. 
Wash well with water. 

DARK BLUB. 

For 100 piounds yarn: 5 pounds im- 
mediai indone blue, 3 B, pat.; 10 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. ^_^l 



1» 



pounds sodium sulphide; 15 pounds 
cryst. Glauber's salt; 5 pounds soda 
asih. Enter at boil. Boil on© hiour. 
Wash well with water. 
ORANGE. 

For 100 pounds yiarn: 5 pounids itm- 
medial orange C, pat.; 8 poiumds so- 
dium sulphide; 15 pounds oryst. Glau- 
ber's salt; 5 pounds soda ash. Enter 
at boil. Boil one hour. Wasih well in 
two or three waters. 

BLACK. 

For 100 pounds yarn, Ist bath: 20 
pounds immedial black N N cone; 12 
pounds sodium sulphide; 20 pounds 
oryst. Glauber's sailt; 5 pounds soda 
ash. 

2d bath: 10 poiunds immedial blaek 
N N cone; 8 pounds sodium sulphide; 
15 pounds cryst. Glauber's salt; 4 
pounds soda ash. 

Enter at boil. Boil one hour. Wash 
well in two or three clean waters. 

The Finishing. 

In the finisihing process use: 4 to 8 
ounces cornstarch, 4 to 8 ounces co- 
eoanut oil, white softening, 1 gallon 
water. Mix oold, boil half an hour. 
Starch through mangle. Run over 
drying cylinders. Sprinkle, and cal- 
ender through light calender. After 
starching, the goods are sometimes 
dried over the tenter frame to keep 
the pattern straight acroiss the piece. 
^~»->— 



CRINOLINE. 



composed of 

filling or all 

in varying 

tailors and 

clothing. 

low texture 

FEATURE. 



Crinoline is a fabric 
cotton warp, horsehair 
cotton yarns. It is sold 
widths, and is used by 
dressmakers in stiffening 

It is a cheap cloth of 
and simple construction, 
THE DISTINGUISHING 
being the stiff finish with either a dull 
or highly glazed face on the cloth. 
Crinoline, having a horsehair fill- 
ing, requires a loom of special con- 
struction to handle the hair, as it is 
hung in a neat bundle on the end of 
the loom, the hair being of a uniform 
length and color, generally black; the 
mechanism on the loom drawing a 
strand of hair from the bunch and 
placing it in the shed formed by the 
harness. A herring-bone twill weave 
is used in this grade of the cloth. 
Practically 



THE SAME EFFECT 

can be produced by using a glazed 
warp thread and a cotton filling. 
The glazing process is to take the 
cotton warp thread, and after 
charging heavily with a solution of 
sizing, the yarns are run through su- 
per-heated cylinders and rollers, the 




Crinoline. 

effect being a highly polished surface 
to the yarn. 

Crinoline composed of regular cot- 
ton yams is stiffened by weighting 
the fabric with sizing; the weight of 
the size, in some cases, equals 20 per 
cent of that of the yarns used in con- 
struction. 

Crinoline is made generally on the 
roller or cam loom of l-20s to l-26s 
cotton warp and filling yarn, using 
25 to 40 ends and picks per inch, the 
cloth losing about 10 per cent of it» 
width from loom to finished width. 
The warps are sized 6 to 10 per cent 
and the woven cloth made to absorb 
15 to 20 per cent of its weight, during 
sizing operation. 

TO FINISH CRINOLINE 
means to stiffen it. The cloth 



la 



DHDWnaDB 
■aaDBDBD 

aaamauam 

■DBOBDMa 

Daaannaa 
■DBDaoBa 
DBDaDBaa 
Baaaaaaa 



DnCBDDDB 

□naDDaan 
naDGDBan 

BDDDBDDn 



cnDBBBannaaa 
D .aaanoaaDaa 
aaBanoaaaaaa 
aaaaaaaaaDDa 
aanDDaaaaaaD 
■aDDBaaaDBaa 



nGDnnannnann 
Dnanao dddbd 

□DDBGDDaDDDB 

DDBaaaDDanaa 
DBDDDnnanncD 

BDaDnDBDDDDa 



Two Bei>eat^ 



aDCGDBOGDD 

DaDDDEBDnG 
DnDDBDDDDB 
DDBDDQDBnD 



DnnnannDD^F 
nDDBaDDLPn 
DDaananBDcr 
naaDDDBcnn 
anncDaDDCQ 



DDBBDiriBB DaBBDGBBaaBa 
BBDDBBaa BBDDBBDaBBDD 

No. 2. 



No. 3. 



No. 1. 

1. Crinoline. Plain "Weave. 

2. Crinoline. Herring-bone Weave. 

3. Haircloth; 5 liarness satin filling ef- 
fect. 

therefore taken direct Irom the loonn 
to the size tubs, and after this opera- 
tion It is run through the cylinders 
to dry it, after which the glaze finish 
is produced by the action of the he&tr 



20 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



ed rollers in the calender machine. 
The cloth is then rolled or lapped, to 
whatever size bolt desired, the bolt- 
ed pressed in plate press, and the 
crinoline is ready for the packing 
cases. 

Crinoline is usually made In either 
solid black or cotton in the gray. 

CRINOLINE. 

Plain weave; reed700; 1 endpersplit; 
27% inches reed; l-26s cotton warp 
and filling; 36 picks; 20 per cent size 
in finish. 

Color, black; weight, 1.9 ounces; 
IG I square inches, weight 15.1 grains, 
iinished weight; 16 square inches, 
^weight 12.1 grains after sizing is re- 
anoved. 

Horsehair is used in manufactur- 
ing haircloth, a fabric used for fur- 
niture covering, the weave being a 
filling effect satin (generally about 
five harness), to throw hair on the 
face of the cloth. These satin 
weaves permit of about 15 per cent 
more ends and picks than are used in 
:an ordinary weave. This is due to the 
ilong floats in either warp or filling 
effect, satins. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Although the yarns used to make 
crinoline are what are called coarse 
yarns it must not be thought that 
they may be neglected in any way in 
the carding and spinning, because 
coarse yarns should not be thrown to- 
gether any more than the finer counts 
of yarns. We should not turn our at- 
tention from the carding and spinning 
of coarse yarns and let them be run 
through the different machines until 
the required count is made, but we 
should give special attention to the 
production end of these yarns as it is 
here we can make the best showing. 
In coarse counts of yarns it should be 
our aim to get as large a production 
from each machine as possible and 

NOT OVERLOAD THE MACHINE, 

and at the same time produce as good 
a finished yarn as possible. Another 
thing, when making coarse counts of 
yarn we are not required to take out 
as large a percentage of waste as 
when we are making the firmer 
counts, and while enough waste 
should be taken out so that the yarn 
will not be bunchy, still it will be 
at once seen that the settings will 
not be as "close" as when the 
firmer counts of yarn are being made. 
A low-grade, short-staple class of 



cotton is generally used for making 
the class of goods under description. 
Sometimes this is used straight but 
some mills use waste from the comber 
in the mixing as well as the low-grade 
cotton. ■ Generally 

TWO PROCESSES 

of picking and opening are used, the 
speed of the beater being around 1,500 
revolutions per minute, the beats per 
inch being between 42 and 45. The 
beater is run at a higher speed on 
short stapled cotton for two reasons: 
first, because it is necessary to run it 
at a higher rate of speed in order to 
get all the dirt out; and second, be- 
cause it can be run at a higher speed 
because there is not so much liability 
of making neps, for the reason that 
the staple is short and does not ball 
up as easily as the long-staple cot- 
tons. 

The weight of the whole lap at the 
finisher picker is about 40 pounds, or 
about 141/^ ounces to the yard in 
length. 

THE CARDS 

are set so that the tops are about 12- 
1000 of an inch away from the cylin- 
der wire (coarse wire being used on 
both cylinder and doffer fillets). The 
llcker-in knives are set as close as 
possible without touching so that they 
may throw out as much dirt as pos- 
sible. The draft of this machine 
should be about 100, the production 
from 750 to 1000 pounds for this class 
of goods and the weight of sliver per 
yard at the front about 65 grains per 
yard. The ones in charge of the cards 
should see that the cards are properly 
ground because when running large 
productions of low-grade cotton the 
wire on the fillet becomes dull and 
does not perform its duty. 

TWO PROCESSES OF DRAWING 
are used, generally 6 ends up. As 
the weight per yard of sliver is heavy 
at the drawing frame for this class 
of goods, a point to look out for is to 
see that the weights attached to the 
top rolls are sufficient to hold them 
down so that they will not jump. The 
weight of the sliver at the point of 
the finisher drawing should be about 
75 grains and the speed of the front 
roll about 400 revolutions per minute; 
the hank roving at the slubbers 
about .40; at the first intermediate 
fly frame 1.40 and at the second inter- 
mediate 3.75 to 4.25 hank. From the 
second intermediate frame the roving 
goes to the spinning frame, where it is 
spun into the required yarn, or from 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



21 



20s to 26s, being used for this class of 
goods, i.e., crinolines. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

Crinoline linings are generally 
dyed with a cheap logwood blaclc. 

Make up a solution of logwood ex- 
tract at 6 degrees Tw. Add common 
wood acid, 6 degrees Tw., 1 pint acid, 
1 gallon logwood, 6 degrees Tw. Run 
through two-box machine, pieces run- 
ning into liquor 8 to 10 times, and 
through nip of two rubber rollers, 
liquor at the boil. Dry on cylinder 
drying machine, and run through 
chrome bath at y^ pound bichromate 
soda to 1 gallon water, and run 
through a steaming box to develop 
the color. Wash well in water. Starch, 
y^ pound dextrin, 1 gallon water. 
Boil the starch up for one hour before 
starching. Dry on cylinders or on 
tenter frames, as required. Some 
crinoline linings are calendered in 
friction calender, and afterwards em- 
bossed on embossing machine with a 
slash pattern. 

Some crinoline linings are starched 
by hand in the tub, and stretched on 
a stenter frame and dried on the 
frame. 



DAMASK FABRICS, 



The name daimask is technically ap- 
plied to certain classes of fabrics, rich- 
ly decorated with figures of foliage, 
fruits, scrolls and other ornamental 
pattei-ns, usually of a large and elabo- 
rate character. 

The weaves usually employed are 
twills ( mostly satin) and the figures 
In the fabric are made by alternately 
exchanging warp for weft surface or 
vice versia. 

The materials employed vary accord- 
ing to the purpose to which the fabrics 
are to be applied. In the manufacture 
of upholstery cloth for hangings and 
furniture covering, silk or worsted is 
used, while for tableoovers, towels, nap- 
kins, etc., linen is generally employed, 
except in the cheapest grades, when 
cottoin is the material used. 

The name was derived from the city 
of Damascus, when that city was a 
centre for the production of textile fab- 
rics, and originally was applied only to 
silken fabrics, whose designs were very 
elaborately woven in colors and often 
with gold thread. 

About the twelfth oentnry the ahove- 
mentioned city, even then long cele- 
brated for the production of its looms, 



so far outstripped all other places for 
beauty of design, that her silken tex- 
tiles were in demand everywhere, and 
thus, as often happens, traders fastened 
the name of Damascen or Damask upon 
every silken fabric richly wrought and 
curiously designed, no matter whether 
it came or not from Damascus. 

In order to explain the modus oper- 
andi for the production of damask in 
this country, suppose we place our- 
selves in the position of a public de- 
signer, whose specialty is the designing 
of patterns for such fabrics. 
THE SKETCH. 

The first step in the operation is to 
prepare a dozen or more sketches, 
which are to be shown to manufactur- 
ers to take their choice. A specimen of 
such is illustrated at Fig. 1 (reduced), 
the original of which is drawn on ordi- 
nary tracing paper, the exact size, as it 
will appear in the cloth. 

This design or sketch is to be made 
into a damask tablecover, having 50 
threads warp and 44 picks weft per 
inch, the figure of which is to be a 5- 
leaf 4 — 1 satin twill (warp face) and the 
ground a 5-leaf 1 — 4 satin twill (weft 
face) . 

PROPER DESIGN PAPER. 

The next step to be taken is to se- 
lect the proper designing paper.the size 
of which, that is, the number of rectang- 
les, warp and weft.in each large square, 
must be in the exact proportion to the 
number of threads (warp) and picks 
(weft) in one inch of the finished cloth. 
The mode of figuring is after the fol- 
lowing manner: 

Paper for warp ruled eight rectangles 
per large square; paper for weft ruled 
in the same ratio to eight as 44 is to 50. 

Operation: x : 8 : : 44 : 50; there- 
fore 44x8 equals 352 divided by 50 
equals 7.04, answer. 7.04 is near enough 
to call it 7; therefore, 8x7 is the proper 
size of design paper required. 
TIE-UP. 

Then the tie-up must be considered, 
which in the present ins'tance will be 
a 600-hook, with the tie-up as illus- 
trated at Fig. 2 French system- 
point for border, and straight through 
for body, in six divisions. 

The next process is to enlarge the de- 
sign as it appears in the sketch, so that 
one repeat will exactly fit on 600 rec- 
tangles (warp) of the designing paper 
selected. 

That portion of the border shown at 
A, in confoirmity with the tie-up should 
occupy the first 15 squares or 120 rec- 
tangles; that shown at B the next 15 
squares or 120 rectangles; that por- 



22 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 




A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



23 



tion shown at C is not required on the 
design paper, because it is a repetition 
of that part shown at A, but simply re- 
versed. 

For the body of the design shown at 
D, 45 squares or 360 rectangles will be 



thre)aid:S in one repeat of weave (satin), 
will not divide into 308 evenly, 310 
must be taken (310 divided by 5 equals 
62). Therefore the design will occupy 
600 rectangles (warp) times 310 rec- 
tangles (weft). 




required, which will complete the 600 
hooks of the machine. Summing them 
up they will be as follows: 

Portion A = 15 sq. X 8 = 120 rectangles ) „ ^ 
Portion B = 15 sq. X 8 = 120 rectangles j" Border. 

Portion D = 45 sq. X 8 = 360 rectangles ") 

— i-Body. 

600 rectangles J 

In order to ascertain how many 
squares or rectangles the design will 
occupy weft-wise the sketch must be 
measured, which in this case happens 
to be seven inches. Therefore 44 picks 
per inch times 7 inches equals 308 
reotang'les; but as 5, the numher of 



PAINTING IN THE DESIGN. 

After the design is transferred to the 
design paper, the next process is to 
paint in the weave, in the following 
manner, or as shown by a piortion of 
the design, taken from sketch at E, and 
illustraited by Fig. 3. 

1. Paint in the figure in solid red 
( Vermillion or scarlet lake), keeping 
well within the lines. 

2. Paint in the 1 — 4 satin twill in the 
ground, running the twill toward the 
right. 

3. Paint in the 4 — 1 satin twill in the 



24 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



figure by using black palint over tihe 
red. Twill to the left. 

Ill joining the ground and figure 
twills great care must be exercised so 
as to effect a clear outline between 
figure and ground, which is done by 
the following method: 

Where it is possible to bring a riser 
fblack) of the grooind beside a sinker 
(white) in the figure weave or vice 
versa, it must be done and in some 
cases, where the risers and sinkers will 
not join, it is well to alter the weaves 
slightly 90 as to effect it; and where 
it is impossible to do this, then tIhe 
weaves of each must not be extended 



border join perfectly with that of the 
body; and this is done by carefully ex- 
amining the tie-up so as to ascertain 
which warp threads will join each 
other in the cloth and take steps to 
make a perfect juncture. 

In this particular instance, warp 
thread No. 1, which is the first of the 
border, is in juxtaposition with warp 
thread No. 241, which is the first of 
the body. (See Tie-up, Fig. 2.) There- 
fore the satin twill of the body, com- 
mencing with 'warp thread No. 241, 
sihould cointinue, without a break, th© 
satin twill of the^ border finished at 
warp thread No. 1. 



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■DnDaBaGaGBaDaQBQGaaBGDaaBODaGBGGGGBGGGGBaGDD 



Fig. 3. 



so as to actually join, but a certain 
leng'th of weft in the ground must join 
a certain length of warp in the figure. 
(See portion of d-esign. Fig. 3.) 

When painting in the satin twill of 
the ground in the boirder of the design 
it is necessary that the twill should ex- 
tend to the right for one-half the dis- 
tance and to the left for the remainder, 
therefore, as this brealving of the twill 
line causes a slight imperfection, which 
is unavoidaible, care must be used so 
as to make the break in such portion 
of the border as will render it unno- 
ticeable. 

Again it is necessary also to be care- 
ful so as to make the weave of the 



WEA\^S TO USE. 

Athough in the majority of damask 
fabrics nothing but satin twill weaves 
are employed (principally 5 and 8 har- 
ness), very good effects are sometimes 
obtained by combining other weaves 
with the satin twills. For instance, 
one side of a leaf may be painted in 
with a satin twill weave, and the other 
side may be a straight twill, thus giv- 
ing the leaf a shaded effect, which may 
be very pleasing. 

Another method of shading and the 
one generally employed is to gradually 
change from warp-up to weft-up or 
vice versa, as illustrated by Fig. 4. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



25 



TWO METHODS OF MAKING 
DAMASK. 

In daanask there is proibably a greait- 
er field for the production of large fig- 
ures than in any other class of weav- 
ing. There are two methods of weav- 
ing damask. First, by the use of the or- 
dinary jaoquard, which is discussed in 
the present article, and second, by the 
use of What iscalled the compound pres- 
sure harness. 

By t)he first method, although very 
elaborate figures can be woven and a 
fine cloth produced, yet by the siecoind 
method a command is oibtained over four 
or five times as many warp threads as 
by the first.thus aliowingthe production 
of a fabric of much finer texture and 
even more elaJborate crnamentation. 

A description of daanasik weaving by 



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DDBDQ^DldDDunMaGQDaDDDDBa 
DBDDBiJUDLJMDDauBDDDDBDaan 
DBDBQDBIUaDDMDGrjDBDDDDaiDa 
BanBUBaOBUDDDBDaUDBULjDDB 
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BBBGBBBBGBBBBQBBBBUBBBBa 
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Fig. 4. 

the use of the compound piressure hiar- 
ness will be given later. 

Where damaslis are made all of one 
color, which is generally the case, as in 
white linen tableoovers, the effect is 
given by the threads lying at righit 
angles to each other, and the light fall- 
ing upon them brings the pattern in 
bold relief and makes it easily visible. 

FINISHING OF CLOTH. 

As it is impossible in the sicope of the 
present article toi describe the 
bleaching, dyeinig and finishing of all 
the var*iO'US damask fabrics, we can at 
least say this — that in the case of the 
linen tablecovers, toweHs, etc., all the 
finisihing required is bleaching, starch- 
ing and pressing. 

But as the beauty of the faibrie large- 
ly depenids upom its whiteness, it is es- 
sential that the bleaching of the cloth 
must be very carefully done. 



It is on account of the excellence of 
her bleacheries that Ireland has beetn 
able to make Irish linen famous the 
world over. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Oottom damask is made in several 
grades and should be considered as be- 
ing made in mills equipped with ma- 
chinery for making medium and high- 
class goods. The grades of cotton used 
for this class of cloth are middling to 
good middling, the staple varying from 
11/4 to 1% inches strong, according to 
the grade of damask to be made. 

THE MIXING 
sho'uld be as lai'ge as posisible and, if 
good waste is used, i. e., siliver waste 
from the front of the cards, and draw- 
ings, also sliver waste froim sliver lap 
machines and combers, and cut roving 
waste from the sluibber and fly frames, 
it sihoiild not be used in larger propor- 
tions than 1 to 3. In up-to-date mills 
and in fact most mills nowadays it is 
the general custo'm to have a wasite 
machine intO' which the cut waste fro^m 
the slubber and fly frames is picked. 
This is called 

A WASTE MACHINE. 
This imac!hine is constructed so as to 
take out all the twist in the roving anH 
generally has for this purpose two or 
three porcupine beaters, and the cut 
roving waste is delivered in a fluffy 
sheet, from which all the twist has been 
taken. The good sliver waste from the 
machines above mentioned is mixed 
with the raw stock, while the cut rov- 
ing waste!, after being run through the 
waste machine, is fed to a picker and 
made ihto- a lap of the same weight as 
tlie laip ibeing used at the finisher pick- 
er, for this class of goods, and then' 

THE WASTE LAP 
is run throiugh with the raw sitock lap 
at the finisher picker in the proportion 
of three laps of raw stock to 'O-ne of cut- 
waste, the cut waste being generally 
put SO' that it will come in the ' centre 
of the delivered lap. 

The cotton, after being mixed, is put 
through a hopper opener and either 
two or three procesises of pickers, two 
processes being best, the speed of 
beater being 1050 revolutions pejr min- 
ute' for openers, 1,500 for breakers and 
1,450 for finishers, also 1,450 revolutions 
per minute for intermediate pickers, 
wfhen used. This gives about 42 beats 
per inch at the finisher. The, weight 
of laps should be 40 pounds at breaker, 
37 pounds at intermediate and 36 pounda 
at finisher. , 



26 



A GOTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



TUB CASJ^S 
should be set close, the speed of the 
flats making incompilebe revolutions 
•every 50 minutes. The draft of the card 
for this class of goods is about 110 to 
125, dO'ffer 24 inches, ahout 13 revolu- 
lions per minute,26 inches doffer, aibout 
12, the pro'duction being aibout 500 
pounds per week. In the drawing 
frames ithe rolls sihoula be set % of 
an inch longer ahan the staple between 
4ihe first a;nd second rollis, and imcrease 
Vh of ain inch between each set of rolls 
towards the hack. The speed of tihe 
front roll s'hould be about 400 revoiu- 
rtions per minute. 

The general instruction given in a 
iwevious lesson on ginghams may be 
followed, except in the case of the hook 
jToving. 

IN THE FINER GRADES 
tof damask the comber is used and then 
<onily two processes of drawings are 
used instead of three, as is the custom 
"When com'bers are not used. 

Earlier in the lesson we have stateid 
4hat ctit-roving waste was used in the 
mixing. Cut roving results from bad- 
Ij-- made ibobbins; bobbins not being 
snarked, it being better to cut ttie rov- 
ing off of these 'bobbins rather than to 
Tun the risk of getting them mixed up 
■with other hanks of roving; boibbins 
<on which there is a large amounit of 
sdnigle or double, which is generally not 
.•allowed.'but which will ibe made in isipite 
'Of the most careful watching; (bad boib- 
Mns resulting from breakdowns to ma- 
■cihinery. and bobbins which are too 
fsmall to send to the spinning or mule 
:rooms. It is best to have 

ONLY ONE HAND 
vto cut off these so-called bad bobibins. 
In larger mills one hand is employed to 
«do this, but it is the general rule to 
liaive the third hands on fly frames do 
it Under nO' consideration sihould the 
lielp (fly frame hands) be allowed to 
«ut off the bad work which they make. 

The cut roving should be sorted into 
piles of different lengths of staple, also 
into different piles, as to kinds; for ex- 
ampile, Egyptian should not be put with 
Allan, even if of the same gxade and 
length of staple. 

WHEN CUTTING OFF ROVING 
■the hand should be careful not to cut 
the iDOibbin, because this in time will 
•make the layers nearest to the bobbin 
stick to the wood, when they are again 
xiised. Tbe bobbins containing a small 
amount of single and double should be 
pulled off by the hand miaking them, 
■W'ho may be found by the marks on the 
l>oibbin, if she allows the bobbin to go 



to the spinning or mule room. The 
hand gathering the roving waste should 
be oarefull not to mix the different sta- 
ples and kinds and it should be taken 
to the picker i^oom and placed in the 
different bins, provided for roving 
waste, which bins 

SHOULD BE PLAINLY MARKED 

as to staple and kind. The one oolleot- 
ing the waste shoiuld report all cut 
waste found and also those making an 
excessivei amo^mt of waste to overseer. 
The overseer should keep an account of 
this roving waste, as well as the good 
waste, so that he may at all times know 
jusit how much is miade. In this way 
he is always in touch with the waste 
made in different departments and al- 
ways know whether too much waste is 
being made. The boss picker is the best 
man to weigh all wastes, because it is 
to his department thait the kick is made 
on account of bad lap®. Reports axe 
generally sent in once a weelc with the 
amooint of waste for each day. 



Damask Cloth Bleaching. 

First, Iboil with 4 degrees Tw. caus- 
tic potash for 8 to 10 hours. Run 
throu'gh'wfashing machine and place in 
kier for second boil, with 4 degrees Tw. 
oajuistlic pidtash. Boil 8 to 10 hours. 

Tihe kier is the ordinary bleaching 
kier. After second boil, run through 
washing miachine. Pass through solu- 
tion of bleadhing powder at % degree 
Tw. and plait down in bin for four 
hiours. Plate through suiUphuric acid 
V2 degree Tw. and wash well with 
■wiasihing maichine, till all trace of acid 
is eliminated. 

Starching: 8 tO' 10 ounces cornstarcih; 
two ounces white coiooanut oil soften- 
ing; one gallon water. Pass through 
starch mangle and dry on cylinder dry- 
ing machine. 

Damp pieces and give a calender fin- 
ish. 



ANOTHER HAMMOCK CLOTH. 



Hammock cloth is a fabric composed 
of either jute, cotton, silk, silkaline or 
linen, and is intended for just such use 
as the name implies, that of a swing- 
ing couch or hammock. The all-cotton 
hammock is the most popular, and 
finds the readiest market. Hammocks 
composed of other material than all 
cotton are the exception, not the rule. 
The 

TWO MOST IMPORTANT FACTORS 
to be considered in the construction of 



A COTTON FABRIC'S GLOSSARY. 



this fabric are: strength, and a pleas- 
ing color arrangement or combination, 
good yarns being used to provide the 
proper amount of elasticity of fabric, 
therefore strength. 

Hammock cloth, when manufactured 
into that commodity known as ham- 
mocks, is more of a luxury than an ac- 
tual necessity, being used only for out- 
door purposes in warm weather. Hence 
the importance of attractive 

COLORING. 

Dry colors are used in cheap grades 
such as retail at about 75 cents. Fast 
colors are used in expensive grades, the 
price of which is from $1.50 upward. In 
all cases bright, rich, lively shades of 
color are necessary. Those colors most 
commonly used are red, blue, purple, 
pearl, black, white, green, as well as 
others in both light and dark shades. 

Hammock cloth is most successfully 
woven on the dobby loom, the very 



loose texture permitted by the use of 
twill weave. 

In making a warp for a hammock, 
the colored and plain yarns are spooled 
upon six-inch spools. These are set up 
in the creel rack by the warper, in ac- 
cordance with the pattern or color ar- 
rangement desired. 

THE WARP 
is made upon a section mill, each sec- 
tion being warped and run upon the 
mill the desired length; the number of 
sections in the completed warp is fig- 
ured out by the warper, according to 
number of ends to be used, and the 
capacity of the creel rack. 

To replenish a warp in the loom, if 
the same harnesses are to be used in the 
same manner as the warp just finished, 
the new warp is placed on the fioor 
directly behind the loom to be filled, 
and the ends of both warps tied to- 
gether by using a flat knot, the same as 




Hammock Cloth. 



cheap grades being made with a 

SCRIM WEAVE 

and from 6 to 8 ends and picks per 
inch, % cotton yarn. By using the 
dobby loom very rapid changes are pos- 
sible, by altering the drawing-in draft 
wherever necessary. This is impor- 
tant in sampling and is rather expen- 
sive when applied to the jacquard 
loom. 

In creating hammock styles, very 
elaborate imitation jacquard figures 
are produced by taking a design suit- 
able for a dobby loom of about 20 har- 
ness, generally twill effects; and by 
dissecting the design and applying the 
parts (straight or reversed) to a series 
of broad and narrow colored stripes In 
the warp or warp pattern, we produce 
an effect 

BOTH INTRICATE AND ATTRAC- 
TIVE. 

Care should be taken, hov/ever, to in- 
sert several small stripes of plain 
weave, as this prevents the cloth from 
pulling out of shape on account of the 



is used, in tying in carpet warps. This 
fabric requires 

ABSOLUTELY NO FINISH 
and is made up into hammocks imme- 
diately after leaving the loom. 

Hammock cloth is made from 34 to 
C4 inches in width, and always of three 
or more ply yarns. 

A good grade of hammock cloth can 
be produced by using: 3-lOs cotton 
warp and filling; 750 reed, 42 inches 
wide; 18 ends, 16 picks per inch; weigh 
8^4 ounces; measure about 38 inches 
from loom. 

Warp pattern: 

19 Light green 

8 White 
46 Navy blue 

4 Black 
23 Light Green 

4 White 
15 Light blue 

4 Light green i 
29 Dark green 

4 White 
64 Navy blue 

8 White 
64 Navy blue. 
12 Black 
64 Light green 
10 Black 

378 ends 



top to bottom, 
reverse. 



Do the same in drawing In. 



28 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars 
For this class of cloth, either a low- 
grade of short stapled cotton is used, 
or, as is more generally the custom, 
waste. When straight cotton is used, 
quantity is more to be looked out for 
than quality. By this it is not meant 



while the production may be greater 
for a short length of time, the ends 
breaking down at the front and the 
time lost in piecing them up constitute 
only one of the items that more than 
makes up for the loss in production of 
a more slowly driven machine, which 
will run more steadily and make even- 
er yarn. 




that quality is not considered at all, 
but that quantity or production is 

THE MOST IMPORTANT POINT 
of the two for this class of goods. The 
quality should be the next point. Get 
all the production that is possible from 
every machine, but always have one 
thing in mind, that it is not always 
the greatest speed of the front roll to- 
gether with the heaviest weight per 
yard of sheet, sliver, roving or yarn be- 
ing delivered that gives the most pro- 
duction at the end of the week. 

There is always a speed over which it 
is foll5' to drive a machine because. 



ANOTHER THING 
that must be taken into consideration 
when reading these articles is that, 
while we describe the different proc- 
esses through which the cotton has to 
go to make the required finished yarn, 
for the cloth, also the general settings 
of the machines required it would be al- 
most impossible for one mill to make 
every cloth that will be described so 
that it must be understood by the read- 
er that when reading the details of the 
different grades and kinds of cloth that 
one mill makes only several cloths of 
the same grade. So, 



A COTTON FABRIOS GLOSSARY. 



29 



IN ORDER TO AVOID CONFUSION 

in the future, let us divide the mills in- 
to three different parts, first those us- 
ing waste and low-grade cotton; sec- 
ond, those low and middling grades of 
cotton, and third, those using middling 
and high grades of cotton. While the 
differences are not so great between 
the first and second and the second and 
third as between the first and third.stlll 
the differences are there in the number 
of processes used and the size of rolls 
also size of wire on certain machines. 
All that is asked of the reader is to con- 
sider which division of the mills the 
cloth under description belongs to and 
the rest will be very clear. Hammock 
cloth, of course, belongs to the first- 
named division. 

For this class of goods the cotton is 
put through, opener and picker; the 
speed of beater is one of the points to 
be looked after. 

AT THE CARD 

coarse wire is used on both fillets and 
the speed and setting of the dofCer comb 
should be looked after to see that it 
is properly stripping the doffer. At the 
drawing frame a smaller second roll 
should be used so that the rolls may be 
set close enough together as the staple 
of the cotton being used is very short. 
A-t the slubber and fly frame this is also 
true. The one watchword with this 
class of goods is production. 



Particulars for Dyeing Yarn. 
LIGHT OLIVE. 

One-half per cent benzo dark green 
GG; % per cent chrysophenine; 20 per 
cent Glaubers; 2 per cent soda; enter at 
120 degrees F. and raise to 180 degrees 
F., give six turns. 

Benzo dark green GG, and chryso- 
phenine are colors from Elberfeld Far- 
benfabriken. 

VIOLET. 

1% per cent benzo fast violet R; 20 
per cent Glaubers; 2 per cent soda; en- 
ter at 120 degrees F.; give six turns to 
180 degrees; color from Elberfeld Far- 
benfabriken. 

YELLOW. 

2^4 per cent fast cotton yellow C, ex- 
tra; 20 per cent Glaubers; 2 per cent 
soda; enter at 120 degrees F.; give six 
turns to 180 degrees F.; color from C. 
Bischoff & Co. 

ORANGE. 

2 per cent fast cotton orange 6R, Ex.; 
20 per cent Glaubers; 2 per cent soda; 



enter at 120 degrees F.; give six turns 
to 180 degrees F.; color from C. Bis- 
choff & Co. 

RED. 

314 per cent benzo fast red GL; ^^ 
per cent chrysophenine; 20 per cent 
Glaubers; 2 per cent soda; enter at 120 
degrees F; give six turns to 180 degrees 
F.; color from Elberfeld Farbenfabrik- 
en. 

BLACK. 

5 per cent direct deep black E, extra 
30 per cent Glaubers; 2 per cent soda; 
enter at 180 degrees F.; get up to boil, 
give eight turns; Farbenfabriken of El- 
berfeld. 

PURPLE. 

^V2 per cent benzo fast violet R.; 30 
per cent Glaubers; 2 per cent soda; en- 
ter at 150 degrees F.; and give eight 
turns; Elberfeld Farbenfabriken. 

BLUE. 

3V2 per cent fast direct blue R.; 30 
per cent Glaubers; 2 per cent soda; en- 
ter at 150 degrees F.; give eight turns 
at boil. C. Bischoff & Co. 

BROWN. 

3 per cent direct brown NX; 30 per 
cent Glaubers; 2 per cent soda; enter at 
150 degrees F.; give eight turns at boil; 
C. Bischoff & Co. A great variety of 
colors are used in hammock cloths. 



TERRY CLOTH OR TURKISH 
TOWELING. 



Terry cloth or Turkish toweling is 
a fabric composed entirely of cotton 
yarns. In effect it is a single cloth, 
having rows of loops, formed by warp 
yarn, in regular order, on each side of 
the cloth. 

In making this fabric, it is necessary 
to use two beams. No. 1 or the bottom 
beam contains the warp for making 
the body or ground of the cloth. No. 
2, the top or terry beam, contains the 
warp for making the loops in the cloth 
or terry effect. Terry cloth is used in 
the manufacture of towels and Turkish 
bath robes, and, as to color, there are 
solid bleached towels, towels having 
side and cross border color effects, also 
stripe patterns for the bath robes, fa- 
vorite colors being navy blue, old gold. 



?0 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



cherry red, light green, etc. The warps 
are of 2-20s to 2-30s cotton and the fill- 
ing 1-20S to l-30s cotton. 

Terry cloth is a narrow fabric meas- 
uring about 25 inches from loom and 
can be made on the roller or cam loom 
or the dobby or jacquard loom, either 
style of loom of course having the 
terry motion attached; the jacquard 
machine being only necessary in mak- 
ing fancy border effects in conjunction 
with the filling box motion. Very good 
cross border patterns are produced on 
a mutual loom, having terry motion 
and dobby attached. 

The terry weave is the three harness 
twill -weave dissected, and the different 
parts of this weave placed together 
again in such a manner as to permit 
the forming of a series of loops on each 
side of the cloth in regular order, by 
the top or terry warp weaving slack, 
using only sufficient weight to permit 
of correct shed'lmg. 

In making terry on a roller or cam 
loom, four harnesses and four cams are 
necessary, two cams being warp effect 
and two cams filling effect. The top 
beam containing terry warp is drawn 
in on first and third harnesses and the 
bottom or ground warp on second and 
fourth harness, reeded two ends per 
split and placed in the loom, the first 
and third harnesses being strapped up 
to the first roller, the second and 
fourth harnesses being strapped up to 
the second roller. The harnesses are 
tlien connected with the treadles at the 
bottom of loom by means of jack straps, 
these treadles being in turn operated 
by the cams, which are set on a cam 
shaft. 

The cams for this weave are those 
of a ^-y ^— 45 degrees twill, and 
are so arranged on the cam shaft as to 
produce the terry effect. The warps are 
drawn in 1, 2, 3, 4, weaving one terry, 
cne ground end. 

The cams are arranged as follows: 

2 

One Warp effect cam. 

1 

1 
One Fining effect cam. 



One Wa.rp effect cam. 

1 
1 
One Fining effect cam. 

2 

WEAVE. 

First pick, first, fourth harness up, 

2, 3, harness down. Second pick, first, 
second harness up; 3, 4, harness down. 
Third pick, first, second, harness down; 

3, 4 harness up. 



The terry motion is arranged thus: 
At the bottom of the loom, near the 
side, there is a treadle, suspended in 
much the same manner as the cam 
treadles. To the treadle there is an 
iron (Vg inch) rod attached and run- 
ning up the inside of the loom and 
connected with an iron lever, which 
works upon a fulcrum, bolted to the 
loom side, the loom driving shaft rests 
in box or bearing on the side of the 
loom. This box is so shaped that it 
allows the shaft an eccentric motion, 
when the terry treadle is forced down 
by a cam, placed on the lower loom 
shaft for the purpose. 

When the terry cam, revolving on 
the lower loom shaft, strikes the ter- 
ry treadle, the rod connected thereto 
pulls down on the lever connected with 
the box in which is resting the driving 
shaft, the whole action throws the 
loom shaft and loom sley forward out 
of line, and the top warp working slack 
the reed draws the yarn through; then 
the terry treadle regaining its original 
position, the loom shaft settles back 



Design. 



12 3 1 
DDkU 

■ ■DD 

■ DDI 
DDDG 
DDDD 

nnan 

DDDD 

nnnn 

DDDB 

dSdg r5rawing-in Draft. 

■DDD 
DODQ 

naaa 
DDaa 
■■oa 



Reed Plan. 



1st Terry. 2d Ground. 33 Terry. 4th Ground. 

to its correct position and the next 
pick of the loom binds in the slack 
warp, thus forming the loop in the 
cloth — the terry motion in this case 
working for two picks and stopping for 
one. 

In weaving tov>reling on a roller loom, 
it being of short lengths of terry, the 
weaver allows the cloth to weave terry 
for any desired length, and to weave 
solid cloth without the loop. He throws 
the terry motion out of gear by drop- 
ping an iron finger down on the trea- 
dle. This holds the terry treadle out of 
the way of the revolving terry cam. 
This iron finger is usually either raised 
or lowered by means of a cord, fasten- 
ed to the inner side of the breast beam 
and near the end of the loom. 

This finger can be worked automati- 
cally by the use of a dobby motion or 
jacquard machine. 

The terry warp, by weaving slack 
and forming the loops, will weave out 
at the rate of about 100 per cent faster 
than the ground warp. It is then re- 
placed by twisting another warp to it. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



31 



this operation taking place at the loom 
and without removing the harnesses. 

A good grade of terry cloth can be 
made as follows: 

Reed — 900, two ends per dent, 27 
inches in reed; 2-30s cotton ground 
-warp; 2-30s cotton terry warp; l-30s 
cotton filling; 3G picks. Width from 
loom, 25 inches. 

To be drawn and woven as stated 
above for a roller loom. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Yarn to make terry cloth or Turkish 
toweling belongs to the second divi- 
sion of mills i. e., the mills mak- 
ing cloth from low and middling 
grades of cotton (raw stock). The 
yarn is generally made from cot- 
ton of about 1-inch staple. The mix- 
ings should be as large as possible and 
good waste is generally thrown into 
the mixing bin at such times as it is 
usual to collect it from the different 
machines. It is usual in all mills to 
gather this good waste, which is really 
no more than the tail ends of laps, 
from the pickers, sliver which has not 
been properly coiled in the cans at the 
cards, combers and drawing frames, 
also any waste that contains the prop- 
er length of staple, which has been 
made at the different processes, which 
from improper care or handling or 
some defect in machinery cannot be 
used at the succeeding machine. This 
waste is generally placed in cans and 
collected at regular intervals and car- 
ried to the picker room and thrown 
back into the mixing bins to be used 
over again and is considered as raw 
stock. Of course it is understood that 
the different kinds or grades of cotton 
are kept separate. This method in- 
cludes all machines up to the slubber 
and the procedure is the same as de- 
scribed in a previous article. 

OPENING AND PICKING. 

The cotton is passed through an 
opener and two processes of picking, 
the weight of lap being about 40 lbs. 
at the breaker and 39 lbs at the finish- 
er, the speed of the beater being 1,500 
revolutions per minute. This is a little 
faster speed than is used for higher 
class of yarns, because there is apt to 
be more dirt and foreign matter in the 
lower grades of cotton and the more 
beats per inch you have the more it 
tends to clean your cotton. 

There is a limit, however, to the 
speed at which to run the beater, be- 
cause, if run at too great a speed, it 



will tend to put nips into the cotton 
which are impossible to comb or card 
out unless you take out the whole 
bunch of fibres contained in the nip, 
which is a needless waste of good cot- 
ton when a little care at the beginning 
would have saved the nip. Nips make 
bunches in the yarn and show up clear- 
ly in the finished cloth, and, while it is 
impossible to make yarn without nips, 
it is always the object of all good card- 
ers to make as few as possible. 

CARD SETTINGS. 
The settings at the cards should be as 
follows: Flats from cylinder 10-lOOOths. 
to 12-lOOOths inch; doffer to cylinder 
7-lOOOths inch: licker-in from cylinder 
10-lOOOths; feed plate to licker-in 12- 
lOOOths to 20-lOOOths inch.according to 
what style of nose you are using; lick- 
er-in knives to licker-in about 12-lOOOths 
inch; back and front knife plates 12 to 
17-lOOOths inch, from cylinder wire at 
the lower edge, although the setting 
distance of the front knife plate varies 
because this helps to regulate the 
amount of flat-top waste taken from 
the cotton on the cylinder; cylinder 
screen from cylinder wire 20-1000ths 
to 24-lOOOths inch at its nearest point 
to wire, which is the centre or directly 
underneath the centre shaft of cylin- 
der. The outer edges of the screen are 
generally set about i/i of an inch away 
from the wire. The sliver should weigh 
about 65 grains to the yard at the front 
of the card, the production being about 
SOO pounds per week of 60 hours. 

THREE PROCESSES OF DRAWING. 

The work is then put through three 
processes of drawing, the revolutions 
per minute of front roll being 400, the 
production per week 1,650 lbs. per deliv- 
ery, the sliver weighing about 70 grains 
per yarn. The settings forfinisher draw- 
ing frame are as foUows: front roll to 
second, 1% inches; second roll to third 
roll 1% inches; third roll to back roll 
1% inches. The slubber hank should 
be about .40 hank; first intermediate 
1.50 hank; second intermediate five 
hank. The spinning frame makes the 
required l-20s yarns from five hank 
roving. Some overseers use one less 
process of drawing and add one process 
of fly frames, in which case the hank 
roving at the different processes of fly- 
frames would be as follows: slubber 
.40; first intermediate 1.10; second in- 
termediate 2.70; fine frame, five hank. 

To make the yarn 2-20s, it is doubled 
at the twister, two ends of 20s yarn 
being fed and being twisted into one 
thread of yarn at the front, but being 
called 2-20s yarn. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



Bleaching and Finishing of Turkish 
Toweling. 

If bleached in the ordinary way run- 
ning through machine rollers in a 
bleaohing works, the pieces will be 
drawn and sometimes damaged. Each 
piece is laid separately in a kier until 
the full amount of cloth has been placed 
therein, a solution of caustic potash at 
5 degrees Tw. is run in, and boiled for 
10 hours. Wash well and boil again with 
a 4 degrees Tw. of caustic potash. Wash 
well, and give a solution of sulphuric 
acid Mi degree Tw. Wash well and 
cliemic with % degree Tw. chloride 
lime, for about four hours. Give an 
acid bath of % degree Tw. sulphuric 
aoid. Wash well till all trace of acid 
has been eliminated. 

The goods should be dried on a tenter 
frame. A light starching, to give more 
weight, can be given of 4-6 oz. corn- 
starch per gallon, starch to be boiled 
for one" hour. Run through a rubber 
rolled mangle and dry on a tenter 
frame. If a half bleach is required, 
a boil of caustic potash and an acid 
bath are all that are required. 



CRINKLE OR SEERSUCKER. 



This weave can be produced on less 
harnesses, but this number allow more 
freedom for heddles. 



nannnnDonnnonnanDDDanBnBDBGBnB 
aiLaannajDajnDD^.aanaDHDHDHDHnBa 
D uanDJHjaGBDnjBDDDBunanDaanDn 
DaBnn^nnaDBDnDBnnDBDDDQnaDGDDD 
DEaanBaaaaan jaaanaG DDDnnonDnD 
■aGaa_aaHzinGH3nDBQnaaanaaDaDaa 

Drawins-ia Dralt. 



□DBBnnBBnnBsnnnBDnBBGnBBnnBBGn 
BHaaaBDDaBajaaGaaflaaBBaaBBaaBB 

Recti Plan. 

nanBGHGB 

aJBDBDMG 
UBGMGMGa 
BGBGBJfla 
DBGBGBJfl 

BGBGanaJ 

DMuBGn^B 
aaSGOGBG 

^lain Weave tor Crinkle. 

Crinkle or seersucker is a wash fab- 
ric composed of cotton, cotton and silk 
or all silk, and can be easily woven in 
any power loom adapted to light and 
medium weight cotton goods, such as 
the old style roller loom, or the more 
modern dobby or jacquard. To make 
this fabric 

TWO BEAMS ARE NECESSARY 
as the crinkle or shrunken stripe is its 
peculiarity, hence the name. The part 
of the warp (which forms the crinkle in 
the cloth) is dressed on a separate 
beam and has only sufficient weight 



placed upon it to allow it (crinkle 
warp) to form a shed properly during 
weaving. 

The ground or body of the cloth 
may be dressed upon one or more beams 
according to the difference in takeup, 
created by using combination weaves 
to form fancy corded or ribbed stripes 
in the body of the cloth. 

To make a perfect crinkle fabric, use 
only 

THE PLAIN WEAVE, 
on both the ground and crinkle warps; 
as, for instance, if we desired to make 
a cloth having a plain stripe for 20 
threads and a crinkle stripe for 10 
threads, draw the plain or ground 
threads on four harnesses, straight 
draft, 1, 2, 3, 4 and the crinkle threads 
on two harnesses 1, 2 and reed the whole 
warp two ends per dent straight across 
from selvage to selvage. 

The crinkle effect is produced by al- 
lowing this part of the warp to weave 
in slack, while the ground warp has 
the regular weight or tension placed 
upon it. In this way the slack warp 
very naturally forms a puckered or 
shrunken stripe in the fabric. 

This fabric was in great demand 
some 3'^ears ago, in fact about 1884, and 
was used extensively for ladies' wear 
in the line of summer oujing dresses, 
petticoats, etc., but like most novelty 
fabrics it survived for a few seasons 
and was cast aside, being out of date, 
and something newer taking its place 
in tne popular fancy. 

A very good grade of crinkle cloth 
can be produced from the following: 
STRIPE EFFECT (WARP PAT- 
TERN). 
Reed, 1150 — 30 inches width in reed; 
1-COs cotton warp and filling. (Regular 
yarns), 56 picks filling. 

To bring out the puckered effect more 
prominently, draw crinkle warp two 
ends per heddle, four ends per dent. 
This necessarily increases the weight 
of the goods, also creating an opening 
for the working up of old stock yarns. 
Of course each manufacturer usually 
follows his own ideas of economy iu 
constructing a fabric, consistent wita 
the conditions and suggestions sub- 
mitted to him by the trade through his 
selling agents concerning the nature 
and style of a sample fabric to be pro- 
duced. 
Following is the 

FINISH 
for goods constructed as per stripe ef- 
fect: Goods are run through the 
washer, then through the cylinders or 
dryer, from the dryer to the tentering 



A OOTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY, 



33 



machine. This operation stretches the 
goods to the original loom width if de- 
sired, also acting as an auxiliary dry- 
er, after which they are rim through 
the calender, which machine gives the 
cloth the appearance of having been 
newly ironed. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The mills making the style of cloth 
described above belong to the second 
division of mills given in a previous 
paper, i. e., those using low and medi- 
um staple and grade of cotton. These 
mills of course use the average settings 
on all machines with proper relation 
to the length of staple, etc. Of course, 
crinkle or seersucker is made of differ- 
ent counts of yarn in different mills, 
but these do not vary enough so that 
any change is made, except in the spin- 
ning room, which will be mentioned 
later. The seersucker under descrip- 
tion will be considered to be made of 
l-SOs cotton yarn. The raw stock used 
for this yarn should be about 1 to 1%- 
inch staple. 

IN THE MIXINGS 
use other good waste, such as described 
in the last paper,also cut roving waste. 
As in previous mixings, make them as 
large as possible, and when possible 
put them through a bale breaker, and 
it would be a good idea to let the cot- 
ton stand as long as possible before us- 
ing it (after mixing, of course). This 
allows it to expand and dry out and it 
is then in a better form for use. Differ- 
ent mills use different processes for the 
purpose of dyeing the cotton out and 
making the cotton mixing 

AS FLUB'FY AS POSSIBLE. 
It is the general custom in up-to-date 
mills to use a blower in connection 
with the bale breaker. The cotton is 
fed into the bale breaker and junks 
are torn apart by the spikes on the 
rolls of the bale breaker and then the 
cotton is delivered on to an endless 
apron, which carries it over a chute 
into which the cotton drops. This 
chute allows tlie cotton to slide into a 
fan or blower, which revolves at a high 
rate of speed and the draft carries the 
cotton through, trunking either direct- 
ly to the bin in which it belongs or 
drops it on to an endless lattice, which 
may be shifted to allow the cotton to 
drop into the bin where it belongs. It 
must be understood that cotton or raw 
stock is 

COMPRESSED \^RY TIGHTLY 
into bales, and if some means were not 
taken to help the cotton regain its nat- 
ural fluffy state the machines would 



have to do a great deal of heavy work 
for which they are not wholly built. 
Thus the bale breaker tends to separate 
the matted masses as they are taken 
from the bale and the air from the 
blower helps to air, dry and restore the 
cotton to a fluffy state, which is so de- 
sirable to obtain among carders. The 
cotton is allowed to stand as long as 
possible so that it will expand and dry 
out as much as possible before using.as 
the cotton in the bale collects more or 
less moisture from being in the cotton 
storehouses in general use. 

The cotton used for 30s yarn is gen- 
erally passed through 

TWO PROCESSES OF PICKING, 
if a blower is used. A good weight per 
yard of lap is 16 ounces and total 
weight of lap is 40 pounds at the break- 
er and 141/4 ounces per yard and 39 
pounds per lap at the finisher. The 
speed of the beater is the same as has 
been given for mills of the second divi- 
sion. At the card the draft should be 
about 100 to 110, which will give the 
weight of the sliver about 65 grains. 
The doffer should be speeded so as to 
give about 800 pounds production. The 
sliver is then generally run through 
three processes of drawing frames, a 
good draft of which is as follows: 
breaker^ 5 plus; intermediate 4 — ; fin- 
isher 6; which will give the following 
weight of sliver per yard; at the break- 
er 74 grains; intermediate, 79 grains; 
and finisher ,75 grains. Be careful of the 
settings of the rolls at the drawing. 
The hank roving at the slubber should 
be .45; at the first intermediate fly 
frame 1.40; at the second intermediate, 
or, as it is sometimes called, the rov- 
ing frame, 3.5 hank and jack or fine 
frames, 7 to 7.5 hank. The roving is 
then carried to the spinning room 
where it is spun into 30s yarn. If yarn 
of a little higher or lower count is de- 
sired the draft gear is generally 
changed at this frame to give the re- 
quired count. 



Dyeing Particulars. 
LIGHT BLUE. 
For 100 pounds yarn, 1^^ per 
cent immedial indone B pat.; IVz 
per cent immedial sky blue cone; 5 per 
cent sodium sulphide; 10 per cent crys- 
talline Glauber's salt; 3 per cent soda 
ash; enter at boil, boil one hour; wash 
well with water. 

DARK BLUE. 
For 100 pounds yarn: S per cent im- 
medial indone blue Pat; 10 per cent so- 
dium sulphide; 15 per- cent crystalline 
Glauber's salt; 3 per cent soda ash; en- 



34 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



ter at boil, boil one hour; wash well 
with water. 

BLACK. 

For TOO pounds yarn, 20 per cent im- 
medial indone blue Pat; 10 per cent so- 
dium sulphide; 15 per cent crystalline 
Glauber's salt; 3 per cent soda ash; 
enter at boil, boil one hour; wash well 
with water; second bath, one-half 
above proportions, 

OLIVE GREEN. 

12 per cent pyrogene olive N; 6 per 
cent sodium sulphide; 20 per cent 
Glauber's salt; 3 per cent soda ash; en- 
ter at boil; boil one hour, wash well 
with water. 

BROWN. 

12 per cent pyrogene brown G: 8 per 
ceht sodium sulphide; 20 per cent 
Glauber's salt; 3 per cent soda ash; 
enter at boil, boil one hour; wash well 
with water. 

FINISHING PROCESS. 

Starch with six ounces cornstarch; 
six ounces cocoanut oil white soften- 
ing; one gallon water; boil starch for 
45 minutes; rinse through starch 
mangle; dry on tenter frame. 



to produce a cheap single-cloth trou- 
sering composed of a rather coarse 
but fairly strong single warp thread 
and a thick or lofty single filling 
thread, which combination in certain 
proportions gives the fabric a weighty 
appearance. 

THE FILLING 
is usually an all-cotton shoddy filling, 
made from old dark colored cotton 
rags. By willowing and pickering, the 
yarn is brought to the carded state. 
The fibres in an all-cotton shoddy are 
short, due to the process of reduction 
as stated above. 

From the pickers the shoddy is run 
through the first and second break- 
ers and then through the condenser 
or finisher card. The spool drum con- 
taining the roving is then taken from 
the condenser card and placed upon 



COTTONADE. 



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DBBDDBBDBODB 
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BaaBannaaBBD 

Design 



Dnnannnannaa 
DnaDDDaDDaaa 
uanDDBDi anna 
"lanDaDDDnana 

■ " 1 Drutt 



Gaaaaaaa 
L.aanaaaa 
aaauaaoa 
aaaaaaDa 
aaaanaaa 
Daaaaaaa 
aaoDaaDD 
aDDaaoL-B 

Peaiga 



n~aanDDB 
nnanDDBD 
nBDnr^ana 
BTDanDD 

"Drawing-ia Draft 



Cottcnade is a heavy, coarse, 
single cloth, made of single yarn, gen- 
erally l-20s cotton warp and 16-cut 
wool spun, weaving woolen prin- 
ciple, all-cotton shoddy filling. It is 
used as a trousering, an important 
feature of which is the low selling 
price of the finished garment. 

It is best adapted to the old-style 
roller or cam loom, and is made and 
woven on fourharnesses, genqrallythe 
^— ^ twill, either right or left hand, or 
herring-bone weave effect (twill 
running at angle of 45 degrees). It 
is a narrow fabric, being set in the 
reed 30 inches, andreceivingvery little 
finish and is sold at 27 inches in 
width. 

THE PATTERNS 

are usually on the dark side with a 
small percentage of bright color added 
to Improve the tone: Black, dark 
slate and dark drab for ground colors, 
and an occasional red, pearl, light 
brown or an equivalent color to bright- 
en the whole pattern. 
In making a cottonade the object is 



Herring-bone effect. 



Eight-hand tuil 



the mule to be spun upon tubes, ready 
for the weaver. 

The fibres being short, the shoddy 
will lose from 15 to 20 per cent of its 
weight during the carding ajid spin- 
ning, also from the 3 to 5 per cent of 
waste made by the weaver. 

To find stock at picker: 

Cottonade, 30 inches in reed; 32 
picks; 16-cut cotton (woolen princi- 
ple) shoddy; 32 times 30 equals 960 
yards divided by 300 equals 3.2 ounces 
filling, plus 5 per cent loss equals 3.- 
18 ounces; 16-cut times 300 equals 
4,800 divided by 16 ounces equals 300 
yards per ounce; 3.18 ounces at loom 
plus 20 per cent loss in carding, spin- 
ning equals 3.82 ounces at picker per 
yard of cloth. 

Cottonade, reed 800-2 ends per split, 
30 inches wide, 32 picks, 16-cut cotton 
(woolen principle) shoddy, l-20s cot- 
ton warp. 

Finish about 27 inches. To finish. 
run Ihrough dry hot press. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



3S 



Weigh 414 ounces about. 



Warp pattern: 
10 Black. 

2 Dark slate. 

1 Red. 

1 Black. 

2 Dark drab. 
1 Black. 

1 Red. 

2 Dark slate. 

Design — regular ^-— 45 degree right 
hand twill. 

THE WEAVING. 

To weave in roller loom, this warp 
is drawn in 1, 2, 3, 4, on four harnesses, 
and these harnesses suspended in the 
loom from the rollers by means of 
straps attached to hooks on the top 
af the harness or heddle shafts. The 
harnesses are then fastened to the 
loom treadles by means of jackstraps 
running from the bottom of the har- 
ness to said treadles, the treadles be- 
ing operated by a series of cams, con- 
sistent wicn weave effect desired. 

These cams are so arranged on the 
cam shaft that in revolving they 
strike the treadles, and this action, 
pulling the harness up and down, 
opens the shed. (Note — in a roller 
loom two or more harnesses are always 
attached to one top roller, and of nec- 
essity whatever pulls one down must 
pull the mate harness up, the cams 
alway.5 being arranged to permit this.) 

In applying this weave the first and 
third harnesses are strapped to the 
first top roller and the second and 
fourth strapped to second top roller. 
This being the case, the action of the 
cams in opening the shed causes the 
raisers and sinkers on each succes- 
sive warp thread in the repeat of the 
weave to start one pick later than 
that of the thread preceding it, there- 
by forming a twill line. 

A warp to be woven - — twill, 
drawn on four harnesses 1, 2, 3, 4, and, 
strapped up in this manner, and hav- 
ing the cams set properly should shed 
thus: First pick, first and fourth up; 
second and third down. Second pick, 
first and second up; third and fourth 
down. Third pick, second and third 
up; first and fourth down. Fourth 
pick, third and fourth up; first and 
second down. 

The herring-bone weave effect is 
produced by drawing in the warp from 
front to back and back to front in the 
harness and using the same set of 
cams, set in the same manner and po- 
sition, and the same harness strapping 
as in making a straight right hard 
twill. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

For this class of goods the cottom 
yarn is generally made and spun in 
the same way as wool and - worsted 
yarns, and is generally made in mills- 
and on the machinery generally used 
for making worsted or woolen yarns. 
It will be understood that the meth- 
ods of making yarn in a cotton mill 
and a woolen mill are entirely differ- 
ent, both as to the number of proc- 
esses used and as to the machinery 
used. In fact, the fundamental prin- 
ciples for spinning yarn are entirely 
different in each mill, and as we are 
describing cotton fabrics in these ar- 
ticles we will proceed just as if the- 
yarn used for this class of goods was. 
made at a cotton mill and sold to a 
woolen mill, which is sometimes done. 

THE RAW STOCK. 
The raw stock used for this class of 
fabric would be of a low grade and 
generally mixed with comber or even- 
card waste; the percentage of waste- 
used would depend a great deal on the- 
count of yarn to be made. In the fab- 
ric under description the count of the- 
cotton yarn is l-20s. The raw cotton 
would be opened up and run through a 
bale breaker, or it may be opened 
at the bin and not run through 
the bale breaker which will 
save the expense of one process, 
but the cotton will not be opened up 
as well and a more even yarn yarn will 
be made when bale breaker is used> 
As the cotton is opened at the bin it 
is mixed with the carded or combed 
waste in the proportion required; the 
cotton layers being taken from the 
bale and pulled apart as much as 
possible so as to let ' the air get at 
them and also so as to lighten the 
work of the opener. The cotton is 
taken and put into the opener which 
is generally attached to the breaker 
picker, either directly or indirectly by 
having the cotton carried through 
trualdng (through which it is blowH' 
by a draft of air from a fan on the 
opener) which connects with the back 
part of the breaker picker. The open- 
er machine may be on the same floor 
or may be situated on the floor above 
or below the breaker picker; but in 
mills, as they are now constructed, the 
opener is on the same floor and is con- 
sidered as a part of the breaker pick- 
er. 

PARTICULARS TO BE OBTAINED. 

For this count of yarn the speed 
of the beater should be about 1,050 
revolutions per minute. The hopper 



36 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



on the opener should always be kept 
more than half full of cotton and it 
should be as large as possible, the 
reason for this being tliat a more even 
amount of cotton will always be pre- 
sented to the pin beater by the lift- 
ing apron than when the hopper is 
less than half full. This is important, 
not only in reference to "cottonade 
fabrics," but also all classes of goods, 
because if it is less than half full 
it is apt to cause uneven yarn. The 
speed of the beater on the breaker 
and finisher pickers should be about 
1,500 revolutions per minute, which 
gives the beats per inch about 42. 
The weight of the lap at the breaker 
picker should not be less than 40 
pounds and at the finisher less than 

59 pounds. A 39-pound lap gives a 
weight of lap per yard of liVz ounces. 
The card is set so as not to take out 
too much waste, and wider settings are 
used than those given in a previous 
article. The draft used should be 
100, the sliver at the front weighing 
65 grains. Production at the card 
should be at least 900 pounds. The 
sliver is then run through two proc- 
esses of drawing, the weight of sliver 
at the finisher being about 72 grains 
per yard. The production per delivery 
of the finisher drawing frame should 
be at least 1,600 pounds per week of 

60 hours and the percentage of lost 
time at this machine not more than 
15 per cent. The slubber is the next 
process and the hank roving made at 
this machine should be about .40. 
Three-process fiy frames are used and 
the hank roving at the different proc- 
esses should be as follows: 1st inter- 
mediate 1.10 hank; 2d intermediate 
2.75 hank; five-frame from 4.50 to 5.00 
hank. Care should be taken that the 
rolls are not spread too far apart on 
these machines and a good setting 
for rolls of this stock for slubbers 
and fly frames is as follows: Front 
roll to middle spread to I14, inches; 
middle roll to back roll 2 inches. The 
yarn is then taken to the spinning 
room where it is spun into 20s yarn, a 
soft twist being used. 

Dyeing Particulars for Raw Stock. 
BLACK. 

For 100 pounds: 18 per cent pyro- 
gene black B. D.; 12 per cent sodium 
sulphide; 8 per cent soda ash; 70 per 
cent salt. Enter at boil, boil one 
hour, and wash well in water. 
PEARL. 

One per cent pyrogene gray B; 2 
per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per cent 



soda ash; 5 per cent salt. Enter at 
boil, boil one hour. 

LIGHT BROWN. 
Five per cent pyrogene brown G; 
5 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per cent 
soda ash; 5 per cent salt. Enter at 
boil, boil one hour, wash well. 
RED. 
Five per cent rosanthrene red A; 
25 per cent Glauber's salt; 3 per cent 
soda. Enter at boil, boil one hour, 
rinse, diazotize for one-quarter hour 
with nitrite soda and muriatic acid, 
rinse. 

Develop with beta naphthol and 
caustic soda for one-quarter hour. 
This red is brighter and faster than 
primuline red. 

DIAZOTIZING BATH. 
One and one-half per cent nitric 
soda, per cent muriatic acid, 20 de- 
grees be. 

DEVELOPING BATH. 
One and three-quarters per cent 
beta naphthol; 3 per cent soda ash. 
DARK SLATE. 
Two and one-half per cent imme- 
dial direct blue, B pat.; % per cent 
immedial olive, B pat.; 5 per cent sul- 
phide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 
20 per cent Glauber's salt. Enter at 
boil, boil one hour. 

DARK DRAB. 
One and one-half per cent immedial 
brown, pat.; % per cent immedial 
olive, B pat.; % per cent immedial 
black, N B pat.; 20 per cent Glauber's 
salt; 2 per cent soda ash; 5 per cent 
sulphide soda. Enter at boil, boil one 
hour. 



COTTON WORSTED— MEN'S 
WEAR, 



Cotton worsted men's wear is a fab- 
ric composed of either 2-20s or 2-30s 
cotton warp and filling, and receives 
either a dry or wet finish. The weave, 
color arrangement and general con- 
struction are an exact auplicate of the 
finest worsted goods of the present 
time. 

This fabric is used in the manufac- 
ture of men's suitings and trouserings, 
retailing at $7 to $12 per suit, for the 
middle class trade, and in effect has 
the neat dressy appearance of an im- 
ported cloth of high grade. 

It is made in a light-weight grade 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



37 



at 6 to 6% ounces for spring and fall, 
and heavy weight at 8 to S^^ ounces for 
winter wear, both grades being pro- 
duced in stripe.check, and indistinct 
plaid patterns. 



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Cotton worsted men's wear is 
usually woven on a Crompton 
& Knowles, Mutual or Palrmount 
loom, having either 4x1 or 4x4 
filling boxes, and having a head 
motion attached such as the Crompton 



& Knowles, Mason, Ingraham, Stafford 
or Oldham, of from 16 to 25 harness ca- 
pacity. Most all weave effects and 
combinations of weaves known in the 
worsted men's wear trade can be ap- 
plied to this fabric. Care should be 
taken, however, in construction of 
weave, as the weave, when used in a 
worsted to produce a tightly bound rib 
effect, may appear more open in cotton 
worsted men's wear as the worsted 
fabric shrinks when scoured in finish 
and the cotton fabric is finished dry 
and is practically the same as when 
taken from loom, of course allowing 
for percentage of contraction between 
reed and cloth roll. Cotton worsted 
men's wear is usually made one face 
end and one back end, and reeded four 
ends per dent. 

THE FACE WEAVE 
when a twill, or fancy combination, is 
balanced on the back of the cloth by 
using an eight harness satin (warp 
effect on back) five as counter. The 
face weave should always be properly 
balanced. In making this style of 
goods, or a warp back fabric, 
the extra is placed there for the 
purpose of adding weight to the cloth, 
and if of a tighter nature, the face of 
the cloth will present a puckered or 
uneven appearance. 

To dry finish cotton worsted men's 
wear, the yarns of which have been 
dyed from dry or cheap colors, 
that will not stand washing, 
the goods are taken from the 
loom and inspected, measured and 
sheared. Shearing is a process which 
means running the cloth through a ma- 
chine, having a cutter composed of a 
series of blades set in a frame, which 
reA^olves in similar manner to that of a 
grass mower, the cloth being kept 
taut by being passed over and under 
several rods and rollers, which also re- 
m.ove wrinkles, and allow the cloth to 
be presented evenly to the cutter. The 
purpose of shearing is to remove all 
foreign substances from the face of 
the cloth, such as knots, lumps, etc., 
and the effect is a smooth, even cloth 
that readily takes on the appearance of 
a high-class worsted, after being run 
through the hot press. 

The steam gauge on a hot press 
should register 50 pounds and the dial 
135 pounds roller pressure when the 
cloth is run through this press. The 
effect of the pressure of the steam- 
heated rollers upon the cloth is to re- 
move all wrinkles, liven up the colors, 
and to retain the width of cloth as 
taken from the cloth roll at the loom. 

After being pressed, the cuts of cloth 
are rolled or sapped into bolts, the 



38 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



li 



ends of which are then stitched, the 
tags sewed on and the goods are ready- 
to case and ship. 

THE COLORS 

used in cotton worsted men's wear are 
black, brown, light and dark shades of 
blue, slate, drab and steel, and to liv- 
en up a pattern use an occasional end 
of maroon, green, pearl or sky blue. 
This line is also made in a piece-dye 
fabric, constructed from 2-20 and 2-30 
cotton warps, and l-30s worsted and 
1-20 cotton filling. These yarns are 
woven in the gray and the cloth 
scoured and dyed in the piece, black or 
blue. When finished, this fabric re- 
sembles a very heavy serge. Finish, 28 
inches. 



ounces; 31i/^ inches in reed, including 
selvage 32x2; 2-20 cotton warp one 
face, one back: 52 picks, 2-26s black 
cotton filling. Dry finish equals shear 
and hot press. Weave, can use same as 
light wei2;hts. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Cotton worsted fabrics, like cotton- 
ade fabrics, are generally made and 
spun in the same manner as wool and 
worsted yarns and made in woolen 
mills. There are a few exceptions, how- 
ever, where they are made in cotton 
mills. The count of the yarn used In 
cotton worsted fabrics varies from 208 
to 36s, and is generally a doubled yarn. 
In the present article we will proceed 



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Drawing-:a Draft 



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djhjk JDnajB-jaGonoaBSiB ■ inDaBDDnBSBnDnnDBDBDaDD' bgb 

BnBDDDaQH'aHnUDDDBDBaDCDUB^l-BDDlO^HnBLnDDnBEBBDDCDn 

HaaDoaBaB .uunaBSBDaDCDB- BoaGnaDDDjHaBDnannBnBacn 
DDnnaaKnanDnBnBDaDDDBaBaajcDBii-isBDonnnBDHnGDDDBEEHa 
DaHaHaaGGG«'SHaa rijaaBaaGGGBaiiGGBuBGajaDBSHaaaDLBG 

BEHaaQGCBaBGnn, GB-'?BGGaGGaQBQPGa~Hl!liB^DnGaKDBaDGaG 
nDDaanBfijBnQGaGBaBGaaGGaSHGGGBGGGQQBGBGGDOGBt^EGGa 

Design— Light Weight— Stripe. 

GGaGnanaaGGaaaGBGGG .ggggg^gg: c □ - LCGCGGaaaaGGGGan 

GGGGGGGGGaGaQBGaGaaaGGGGGaaG G _,GGGQGGllGQGGaQGCGG 
GGGGQGGGDaGBGGGGGQUGaaGGGGGfflGaGLjQGDaGGGBGaGGGGGG 
GO iGGaGaGBGGGGaaGGGGGGGGGMGQGGQGDGGGGGGaGBGGGGDG 
OaQGGaanGGGGGClGOGGGGGGaBaGGGGGGGaGaGGaGGQGGBGGaG 
aGGGDBGGGGGGaaaGGGGaaBGGaQGGGBGGGGGaGDGGGQGGQBGa 
GGGBGaGaGGGGaanGGGGaaGOGGGG .GaCBGaaGGGGGaGGGGGGM 

aBaGGaGGGaGaaaGaGBaGGGGGGaDaGGaGGBDGGGaaaGQaGDLG 

aGOGGGGaOaGGaGBaGnQGGGGGGGGGDGGaGaGaBGnQGGaCGaGG 
GGGGaGGGGGGaBnaDaGGGaGaaGGDGGGGaGCCaGQBaGi GGGL GD 
GDGGGGGaGGBGGaaaGGa'^GGGGaGBGGaG! . GaaGGGDGHGGaaDGG 
DGaGGGaGBGGGGiaQGGGGGGGGBaGGGGGGGGGGaQGGGCBaGGaa 
aGDGGGBGGGGGQaGGGaaGGGBGGGQGBGGGCQauaaGGaGGGBaGG 
aGGnHiaaaGaaGanGaGGGBQQaaQGDGnBGGQGGGGGGGGGaGGBG 

DGaGGGcnaGGGGaanGaBaGaaGGGnGGGnGBaGGGaaaGGDaGGGa 

BGaGaGGGGGDGDDaaBGGaaaGGDaGGGDDGGGBGDGDDDGGGnGGD 
Drawing-in Draft. 



GGGGBBBBGDDGBBBBanGGBBBflaGGGflBBBGGnGBBaBnGGGBBflfl 
BBBBGGaGBBBBGaaaBBBBGGGGBBBBGGGGBaBflaOGGBBaBGDGD 

Reed Plan. 

DGBBGaHBaGGGGGaa 
GMBLjOBaGD^GGDaDG 
BBaDBBGaaaGGaGGD 
BaaBBDLBDaaGDGGffl 

DGBBaDBBDaffiGaaQa 

GBaGGBBaGGGDaaQG 
BHaGBnGGEr-DGGGGGG 

Ba_iHBGGHGGaaQaaa 



Piece dye — worsted men's wear; reed, 
500 — eight ends per dent; 33 inches in 
reed, including selvage, 32x2. 

1 end face 2-30 cotton warp; 1 end 
back 2-20 cotton warp, '- — - twill face, 
8 harness satin back. 5 as counter. 

1 pick l-30s worsted; 1 pick 1-20 cot- 
ton; 56 picks per inch. 

LIGHT-WEIGHT MEN'S WEAR. 

Reed, 900 — ^four ends per dent, 6V2 
ounces; 31i/^ inches in reed, including 
selvage 32x2; 2-30s cotton warp, one 
face and one back; 52 picks 2-30s black 
cotton filling. Dry finish equals shear 
and hot press. Weave twill combina- 
tions for face; weave eight-harness 
satin for back. 

HEAVY-WEIGHT MEN'S WEAR. 

Reed, 800 — ^four ends per dent, 8i^ 



Weave Harness Chain. 

as if the count of the finished yarn was 
to be 2-30S. 

A mill making this class of goods 
would belong to the second division of 
mills (as classified in a previous arti- 
cle) i.e., a mill equipped with machin- 
ery for making yarns from low to me- 
dium grades of cotton. 

THE MIXINGS 
would be made in the usual manner, 
being run through a bale breaker into 
the mixing bin and at this point mixed 
with the sliver waste returned from the 
cards, drawing frames and combers (if 
there are any of these machines in the 
mill) and then it is run through an 
opener and through three processes of 
pickers. At the finisher picker laps of 
cut roving waste are mixed with raw 
stock in the proportion of three laps of 
raw stock to one lap of cut-roving 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



39 



waste. In using cut-roving waste and 
also sliver waste it should always be 
of the same length of staple. It is 

THE] GENERAL PLAN 
to use cut-roving waste as fast as it is 
made and not allow it to collect until a 
large quantity is on hand. 

The method employed in most mills 
is to collect the cut-roving over a day 
(generally right after the noon hour) 
and take it to the picker room and run 
it through the roving or waste picker. 
From here it is run into a breaker 
picker and formed into laps of suitable 
weight. These are then mixed with 
the raw stock in the proportion above 
stated, as long as the cut-roving laps 
hold out (which should be as short a 
time as possible for obvious reasons). 
By doing this 

A MORE EVEN YARN 
is obtained than when the cut roving 
is allowed to collect for a week at a 
time before being put through the waste 
picker, because by the first plan you 
are mixing a small quantity of cut rov- 
ing a good part of the time, whereas by 
the latter plan cut roving is only mixed 
with the raw stock once a week, while 
during the other five days nothing but 
the raw stock and sliver waste is being 
mixed. By the latter plan a more un- 
even yarn is bound to be made. The 

SPEED OF THE BEATERS 
on the different machines should not 
exceed 1,050 revolutions per minute at 
the opener, 1,500 revolutions per min- 
ute at the breaker picker, and on the 
intermediate and finisher pickers the 
speed should be slowed down so as not 
to exceed 1,450 revolutions per minute. 
This will give 42 beats to every inch 
of cotton fed to the finisher picker, 
which ought to be enough to thorough- 
ly clean it. In giving the above speeds 
it is assumed that the rigid two-bladed 
type of beater is used. Different kinds 
of beaters, together with their advan- 
tages and disadvantages, will be given 
later when higher count yarns are de- 
scribed. The 

WEIGHT OF THE LAP 
at the breaker picker should be about 
40 pounds or 16 ounces to the yard; at 
the intermediate about 37 pounds or 12 
ounces per yard; at the finisher 39 
pounds or liy2 ounces per yard. The 
settings at the card should be the same 
as described in last week's article per 
weight of sliver being 60 grains per 
yard and the production 850 pounds per 
week of 60 hours. The work is run 
through three processes of drawing, 
revolutions per minute of front roll at 



each process being 400 and the weight 
of the sliver at the finisher drawing 7& 
grains per yard. In order to help pro- 
duce a perfect yarn, it is always a good 
rule never to draw more than you 
double at the drawing frame. For ex- 
ample, if you are feeding six ends at 
the drawing your draft should be six 
or under. The 

PRODUCTION OF THE SLIVER 
at the drawing frame should be about 
1,600 pounds per delivery for a week of 
60 hours. The next machine iis the 
slubber, the hank roving at the front 
being about .40. 

The yarn is run through three proc- 
esses of fiy frames and the hank rov- 
ing made at each should be as follows: 
First intermediate, 1.20; second inter- 
mediate, 3.00; fine frame, 7.25 to 7.50. 
The yarn is then taken to the spinning 
room and made into 30s yarn; from 
here it is taken to the twister and made 
into 2-30s by doubling two yarns of 
single 30s yams together. 



Dyeing Particulars. 
BLACK FOR YARN. 

15 per cent immedial black N N; 12 

per cent sodium sulphide; 5 per cent 

soda ash; 20 per cent Glauber's salt; 

enter at boil, boil one hour; wash well. 

DARK BROWN. 

8 per cent immedial dark brown A; 
1 per cent immedial yellow D; % per 
cent immedial black N B ; 10 per cent 
sodium sulphide; 5 per cent soda ash; 
20 per cent Glauber's salt; enter at 
boil, boil one hour; wash well. 
DARK BLUB. 

3 per cent immedial indone B cone; 
3 per cent immedial indone R cone; 3 
per cent immedial direct blue B; 8 per 
cent sodium sulphide; 5 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent Glauber's salt; enter 
at boil, boil one hour; Avash well. 
PEARL. 

For 100 pounds yarn: 2 ounces imme- 
dial black N R T ; 8 ounces sodium sul- 
phide; one pound soda ash; 5 per cent 
Glauber's salt; enter at boil, boil one 
hour. 

DRAB. 

For 100 pounds yarn: 2 ounces imme- 
dial black N B; 12 ounces immedial 
cutch G; one pound sodium sulphide; 
5 pounds Glauber's salt; enter at boil, 
boil one hour. 

SLATE. 

For 100 pounds yarn: 2 pounds imme- 
dial direct blue B; three-quarters of a 
pound imedial olive B; 5 pounds sodi- 
um sulphide; 10 pounds Glauber's salt; 



40 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



2 pounds soda ash; enter at boil, boil 
one hour. 

STEEL, 

For 100 pounds yarn: 12 ounces imme- 
dial black N B ; 2 ounces immedial yel- 
low D; 2 pounds sodium sulphide; 2 
pounds soda ash; 5 pounds Glauber's 
salt; enter at boil, boil one hour. 

GREEN. 

5 per cent pyrogene yellow M; .5 per 
cent pyrogene green B; 10 per cent so- 
dium sulphide; 20 per cent Glauber's 
salt; 5 per cent soda ash; enter at boil, 
boil one hour; wash well. 

MAROON. 

25 per cent Glauber's salt; 6 per cent 
Rosanthren C B ; 5 per cent soda ash; 
enter at boil, boil one hour; wash. 

Diazotize: 1% pounds nitrate soda; 
four pounds hydrochloric acid; turn 
for 15 minutes; develop two pounds 
beta-naphthol; 2 pounds soda ash; turn 
for 15 minutes; wash well. 

SKY BLUE. 

2 pounds immedial sky blue; two 
pounds sodium sulphide; 5 pounds so- 
da ash; 15 pounds Glauber's salt; enter 
at boil, boil one hour. 



FIGURED SILK (LENO) 
WAISTIN6. 



Figured waisting is a light-weight 
wash fabric, generally composed of 
1-40 cotton warp and either single or 
two-ply silk or silkoline filling,] -60 silk 
and 2-60 mercerized or silkoline filling 
being in great favor for the past few 
years. 

This fabric can be woven on either 
the dobby or jacquard loom having 
single or double box motion. Very 
ELABORATE AND POPULAR 
STYLES 
are created by using fancy granite 
weaves (filling effect) for ground, and 
for figuring use the filling effect of dia- 
mond, spot, crossed or curved twill 
weaves. These are so regularly ar- 
ranged as to produce apparent jac- 
quard patterns. Persian stripes can be 
produced by using bright colored extra 
warp threads and arranging the weave 
so as to raise them on the face of the 
cloth in Oriental or fioral designs. 



Spots are sometimes woven into this 
fabric by using extra warp and clip- 
ping the long floats of yarn off the 
back of the cloth. 

Very elegant styles are made by in- 
troducing leno or doupe weaving by 
means of white and colored fancy 
yarns to produce open or lace work in 
the cloth. 

Figured waisting is made in both 
chambray and stripe pattern, always 
having white filling. For chambrays 
the following 

COLORS 

are serviceable: dark blue, light blue„ 
brown, pink, red, pearl, steel, light 
green, tan, ecru, etc. 

The combination of cotton warp and 
silk or silkoline filling creates a silky 
sheen on the face of the fabric as the 
light strikes it, and this in itself is its 
most important selling feature. 

IN WEAVING 

this fabric the take-up roller should be 
covered with fine sandpaper and this 
paper presents a more even surface to 
the cloth and does not draw the filling 
as is often the case where perforated 
tin is used as a covering on the take- 
up roller. The perforations usually 
cause small rough particles of tin to 
stick out prominently, and these catch 
on the long floats of the filling figure, 
and as the loom continues to run, the 
yarn clings to the roller and draws the 
filling, thereby spoiling the symmetry 
of the figure and causing imperfect 
cloth. 

The tin covering very often causes 
clouded or thick and thin places in the 
cloth. Especially is this so when us- 
ing a fine silk filling, and a great num- 
ber of picks per inch. 

To finish figured waisting the fabric 
is washed in a solution of soap and 
cold water, then dried by being run 
through the hot press. After the press 
of calender, the goods are folded on a 
folding machine (not lapped) in the 
same manner as sheeting, and after 
folding, each separate piece or cut is 
doubled in half and then wrapped in 
stiff paper, to keep out all dirt, after 
which it is ready to pack and ship. 

(SILK) FIGURED WAISTING. 

Reed, 1,300, 2 ends per dent; 38 
inches in reed,t0' finish at 36 inches. 1,- 
300 means 1,300 splits to 36 inches of 
reed. Warp l-40s cotton: filling l-60s 
silk filling, 64 picks. Take-up of warp 
during weaving, 15 per cent; 1,300 reed 
by 38 inches equals 1,372 splits; 2 ends 
to 1 split equals 2,744 ends plus 40 ends 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



41 



for selvedge equals 2,784 total ends in 
warp. 

WARP PATTERN. 

16 White. 1 

2 Light blue. 1 , ., 

6 White. r^ "™®°- 

2 Light blue. J 
16 White. 

8 Cadet blue. 

2 Sky blue. 

2 Cadet blue 

2 Sky blue. 
12 Dark blue. 

2 Sky blue. 

2 Cadet blue 

2 Skv blue. 

8 Cadet blue. 

134 ends in pattern = 67 splits. 

19 repeats of weave and pattern plus 
40 splits or 80 ends. 

FIGURED (LBNO) WAISTING. 

Reed, 1,400— ends per dent, 2; 34% 
inches in reed, including selvage; fin- 
ish, 28^/^. Scour and calender. 

WARP PATTERN. 
88 Red 1-40 cot. 

1 Black leno 2-20 mere. 
4 White 2-40 cot. 

2 White leno. 
4 White. 

2 White leno. 

4 White. 

2 White leno. 

4 White. 

1 Black leno. 

112 ends = 68 splits. 

Weight one yard, 2,286 ounces. 

1752 ends -f- 15% take up = 2061 yds. 1-40 

cot = .981 ozs. 

40 ends + 15% take up = 47 yds. 1-40 

cot = .002 ozs. 

S04 ends + 15% take up = 358 yds. 2-40 

cot = .034 ozs. 

38 ends black + 25% take up = 50 yds. 

2-20 mere = .009 ozs. 

114 ends white -f 25% take up = 178 yds. 

2-20 mere = .034 ozs. 

56 picks X 34% in. = 1932 yds. 2-60 

mere = 1.221 ozs. 

Total 2.286 ozs. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Only mills having up-to-date ma- 
chinery and also up-to-date ideas can 
hope to make figured silk leno. This 
class of goods requires a great deal 
firmer yarns than the other cloths that 
have been previously described, and 
these yarns are made in the third divi- 
sions of mills (as classified in a pre- 
vious article), i. e., mills making yarn 
from middle to high-grade cotton. The 

COUNTS OF YARNS, 
for this class of goods vary from 30s 
to 60s warp and from 40s to 80s (single 
or double) filling. The filling yarn is 
generally mercerized and a great many 
times extra silk ends are used to pro- 
duce a certain silk effect in the cloth. 
For the carding and spinning particu- 
lars we will consider the warp made up 
of l-40s cotton yarn and the filling of 
2-60S yam. 

THE COTTON USED 
should be of a good grade and a great 



deal of Allan seed cotton is used. This 
is generally of 1% to li/4 inches staple 
and should be as clean as possible. 

In mixing this class of cotton, it is"- 
very important that all the bales mixed ' 
should be of the same length of staple, . 
and the overseer, or in large mills both 
the overseer of carding and the cot- 
ton sampler, sample the cotton from 
every bale, and if it is not up 
to the standard staple and grade, the 
bale is laid aside either to be taken 
back bj'' the cotton broker or used for 
making yarns, which can be made out 
of a shorter staple cotton. After this- 
the cotton is put through a bale break- 
er (if the mill has one which it should) 
or the cotton may be mixed by hand,, 
care being taken when this latter 
method is used that the layers of cotton 
taken from the bale are pulled apart 
as much as possible. The ones in 
charge of 

THE MIXING 

should watch the men while they are 
pulling the bales of cotton apart to see 
that they do not take too large layers^ 
from the bale and throw them into the 
mixing bin which they will do if possi- 
ble so as to get through with the job as- 
quickly as possible, for it is a dirty job' 
at the best. The bins should be made- 
as large as possible so as to accommo- 
date as large a mixing as possible at 
one time, as large mixings help to 
make more even yarn than small mix- 
ings. 

IN SOME MILLS 

it is the custom to use two bins for 
mixing the same kind of cotton. The 
mixing is done as above described. But 
one bin" is emptied at a time, while the 
cotton in the other bin is allowed to 
dry out while the cotton from the first 
bin is being used. Of course when one 
bin is empty it is immediately filled up- 
again and the cotton is allowed to dry 
out in it until the second bin is emptied 
of cotton. When cotton is put through 
a bale breaker or any machine v/hich 
opens the cotton up it is only necessary 
to use one bin and the cotton is or 
does not have to remain to air out, but 
may be used right away. The good 
waste from machines up to the slubber 
are used in the mixing, and cut-roviug 
is run in at the finished picker (it hav- 
ing first been run through the roving 
waste machine and made into laps at a 
breaker picker). The raw cotton is- 
taken from the bin and put througb 
an opener and 

TWO PROCESSES OF PICKING. 
The speed of the opener beater should 
be about 1,000 revolutions per minute. 



42 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



the breaker and finished heater (t.wo- 
illded) about 1,400 to 1,450 revolutions 
per minute. It may seem strange that 
the speed of the beaters on the openei 



neps into the cotton, hut it is necessary 
to run the beater at a higher rate of 
speed for this class of cotton because 
it is very dirty. 




and pickers should be about the same 
5is when low-grade cotton was used, be- 
<;ause the general rule followed is that 
the longer stapled cotton being used, 
the less the speed of the beater, because 
longer cotton being used a highly 
speeded beater is apt to and does put 



EXPERIMENTS 
should be made with the beater in or- 
der to get it to run just fast enough so 
that it will take out the dirt and for- 
eign matter in the cotton.and the above 
speeds are given only as a basis from 
which to work. The weight of laps at 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



43 



the breaker picker should be about 16 
ounces to yard of laps and at the fin- 
isher about 11 ounces to yard of lap, or 
for the finer counts 10 ounces per 
yard of lap may be used. The total 




Ireight of the lap is 35 pounds and at 
the finisher picker receiving about 42 
beats of the beater for every inch feed. 
The method of finding 

THE BEATS PER MINUTE 
is to multiply the revolutions per min- 



ute of beater to one revolution per 
minute of feed rolls (this may be cal- 
culated through the gears on the pick- 
er in the usual manner). Muitiyi> rev- 
olutions per minute of beater by 2 
(or 3 if a three-bladed beater is np°i). 
Divide this product by the circumfer- 
ence of the feed roll. For example, 
suppose that the beater made 197.5 rev- 
olutions per minute and was a 2-bladed 
beater; then 197.5 times 2 equals 395 
divided by 3 (diameter of feed roll) 
times 3.14 plus equals 41.9 beats per 
inch. Ans. 

THE CARD. 

The next machine is the card, and at 
this machine we see changes. In the 
first the wire fillets on the cylinder and 
dofter are finer. A good size wire to 
use is 35s on the cylinder and 36 or 37 
on doffer and top flats. All parts are 
set closer to each other with the ex- 
ception of the nose of the feed plate 
in relation to the licker-in. The feed 
plate should be set so that the licker- 
in will not take the fibres being deliv- 
ered before they are free from the bit 
of the feed roll and feed plate. The 
speed of the top flats is sometimes in- 
creased by lagging the top flats driving 
pulley. This is for the purpose of hav- 
ing more working flats on the cylin- 
der and which consequently results in 
taking out more waste. The 

SPEED OF THE DOFFER 
is a great deal less and thus the pro- 
duction is smaller, for it is quality first 
and quantity second with this class of 
goods. Of course the quantity must be 
looked to to see that the production is 
as large as possible.but it must not be 
at the expense of quality. Sometimes 
on the finer counts of yarn the speed 
of the licker-in is reduced, and it is 
found to be of a great benefit to the 
sHver delivered at the front, because 
it not only cleans the cotton more thor- 
oughlj^ but it also tends to. 

KEEP THE NEPS OUT 
and not to put them in. If carders 
have not tried this it might be a good 
plan to lag the licker-in pulley to 10 or 
101'^ inches diameter, instead of nine 
inches as it now is when using long 
staple cotton, especially Sea Island cot- 
ton. The draft of the card should be 
about 125 to 140, the sliver at the front 
weighing about 45 grains to the yard 
and the production of the card being 
not over 500 pounds per week of 60 
hours. Grind cards both often and 
light. The cotton for this class of 
goods is combed and 
BEFORE REACHING THE COMBER 
passes through the sliver lap and rib- 



44 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



bon lap machines, generally 14 ends up 
at the sliver lap and six laps at the rib- 
bon laps. The weight per yard of lap 
at the ribbon lap machine should be 
about 260 grains. As the ribbon lap 
machine is at the drawing frame, 
never draw more than you double. In 
some mills the ribbon lap machine is 
not used, but where it is used it saves 
about IVz per cent waste at the comb- 
er. 

THE COMBER 
should be properly set so as to take 
out about 16 per cent waste, the weight 
of sliver at front being about 45 grains 
to yard. The speed of comber for this 
class of cotton should be not over 90 
neps per minute. This class of cotton 
is very hard to comb and should be 
watched all the time to see that it is 
being handled properly. After the 
comber two processes of drawing are 
used, the sliver at the finisher weighing 
70 grains per yard. The settings of the 
rolls should be as follows: front to sec- 
ond 1% inches, second to third 1% 
inches, and third to back 1% inches. 

THE SLUBBER ROVING, 
should be .55 hank and the first inter- 
mediate f[y frame roving 1.50 hank; 
second intermediate 4.00 hank, and 12 
hanks or packs for spinning 60s and .55 
hank slubber 2.00 first intermediate 
and 8.00 fine frame for 40s. Care must 
be used in setting the rolls as well as 
in the adjustment of other parts of the 
fly frames. The cotton is taken to the 
mule spinning room and spun into the 
counts mentioned above, from here it 
is taken and put through the different 
processes required and sent away to 
be mercerized. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
FIGURED SILK AND LENO WAIST- 
ING. 
DARK BLUE. 

10 per cent tetrazo sulphur blue B, 8 
per cent sulphide soda cone, 3 per cent 
sal soda, 50 per cent common salt. Enter 
at boil, boil one hour, rinse quickly in 
cold water and give three washings in 
water. 

The tetrazo sulphur colors can be 
obtained from the New York and 
Boston Dyewood Company. 
BROWN. 

10 per cent tetrazo sulphur brown R, 
1 per cent tetrazo sulphur brown G, 9 
per cent sulphide soda cone, 3 per cent 
sal soda, SO per cent common salt. En- 
ter at boil, boil one hour, rinse quickly 
in water and then thoroughly thr?e 
times. 



PEARL. 

1 per cent tetrazo sulphur black R ex- 
tra, 1 per cent sulphide soda cone, 2 per 
cent sal soda, 10 per cent common salt; 
rinse well quickly in water, and thert 
thoroughly three times. 

STEEL. 

1 per cent tetrazo sulphur black Ex,. 
1 ounce tetrazo sulphur brown G, 1 per 
cent sulphide soda cone, 10 per cent 
common salt; rinse well quickly in 
water.and then thoroughly three times. 

LIGHT GREEN. 

1 per cent new methylene blue GG., 
Vz per cent thioflavine T, extra; enter 
at 120 degrees P. and get up to 160 de- 
grees P, in 30 minutes, and turn five or 
six times and wash. To be dyed or 
yarn mordanted with tannic acid and 
tartar emetic. 

TAN. 

2 per cent tetrazo sulphur bronze, 2 
per cent tetrazo sulphur brown G, 4 per 
cent sulphide soda cone, 3 per cent sal 
soda, SO per cent common salt; enter 
at boil, boil one hour and wash well in 
three waters. 

ECRU. 

1 per cent tetrazo sulphur bronze, % 
per cent tetrazo sulphur brown G, 1 per 
cent sulphide soda cone, 3 per cent sal 
soda, 20 per cent common salt; enter at 
boil, boil one hour, wash well in three 
Avaters. 

RED. 

4 per cent benzo fast red GL, 20 per 
cent Glauber's salt, 2 per cent sal soda, 
enter at 150 degrees F, give six turns 
to 180 degrees F., wash well in water. 

PINK. 
V2 per cent diamond Rose GD, 2 per 
cent sal soda, 25 per cent Glauber's 
salt; enter at boil, boil one hour, and 
wash in v/ater. 

MEDIUM BLUE. 

6 per cent pyrogene Indigo blue, 5 per 
cent sodium sulphide, 3 per cent soda 
ash, 25 per cent Glauber's salt; enter 
at boil, boil one hour, and wash well 
in water. 

SKY BLUE. 

2^2 per cent immedial sky blue, 3 per 
cent sodium sulphide, 3 per cent soda 
ash, 30 per cent Glauber's salt; enter at 
boil, boil one hour; wash well in water. 

DARK GREEN. 
10 per cent pyrogene green B, 3 per 
cent pyrogene yellow M, 13 per cent so- 
dium sulphide, 4 per cent soda ash, 30 
per cent Glauber's salt; enter at boil. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



4& 



boil one hour; wash well in four 
waters. 



Finishing Particulars. 

Starch with eight ounces cornstarch 
6 ounces white cocoanut oil softening, 
1 gallon water, boil one hour; dry over 
stenter frame and calender. 



CORDUROY, 



en either -i-' i. or i twill, the pile 



Corduroy is a narrow, all cotton fab- 
ric, the distinguishing feature of 
which is the perfect half-round regu- 
lar ribs runningi warp ways through 
the cloth. As a fabric, it belongs to 
the general class of filling pile fabrics 
and is made of one system of warp and 
two of filling. The warp must be of 
good cotton staple to- make a fine 
strong end. The pile filling should be 
of first-class cotton, soft spun, to blend 
more readily when the ribs are rubbed 
after being cut and brushed. 
The warp and ground filling is wov- 
_i_ 

1 1 "" 2 
pick weaves with either one, two, or 
three warp end, and floats over from 
three to 12 warp ends. The length of 
the float of pile filling depends upon 
the width of rib or cord desired in the 
fabric. The important point about the 
pile weave is to cause the pile filling to 
weave with the same two or three 
warp threads. This gives us lines of 
binding and lines of filling floats run- 
ning warp ways. 

The velvety ribs or cords, as noted 
upon the face of a corduroy.are created 
by first cutting the lines of fioats of 
the pile filling. This operation is per- 
formed by hand with a very sharp 
steel knife, after which the ends of the 
floats are carefully brushed, and then 
rubbed together to the proper degree 
of consistency desired in ribs. 

Corduroy is Avoven with from 160 to 
500 picks of filling per inch; and is 
afterward dyed in dark blue, tan, buff, 
green and olive colors, to be used in 
making clothing for men. 

It is also used for upholstery pur- 
poses, either in plain solid colors or 
the plain color has an elaborate floral 
design printed upon it. These printed 
patterns are usually in bright colors, 
such as red, yellow, light green. 

IN PRINTING, 
the design is first engraved upon a set 
of copper rollers. These are set into a 
regular machine, and as the cloth pass- 
es over them, the color being fed to 



the rollers automatically ,the design is 
placed upon the face of the cloth. 

It is woven so as to finish from 27 to 
ZlVo inches, the 27-inch for clothing 
and 311^-inoh for upholstery. 

This fabric requires a loom to be in 
good condition, as the beating in of 
such high number of picks per inch 
of filling is hai-d on the loom, and also 
necessitates slow production. 

It is usually woven on dobby or 
witch loom, having single or double 
box. 



or — or •!- 

1 2 



Weaves are usually -j 

Filling, 1 ground, 1 pile, 1 ground, 2 
pile, or 1 ground, 2 pile, 1 ground, 1 



JIinHBnnBHDDHBDnB 

DaiikDanaaDBHODaB 

asaStHEBfflSfflEHBHBBffiB 
DBBDDltlBDDBBDunBD 
afflBHQffifflBBBHBtBBffl 
fflSaBBBBBBBBBBti-BB 
BBCatSBIDai£BDGa..iDD 

Design. 



naDDDDaDnaaDDoaa 
DDLiGaaDaDDDDnncH 
DDannnisnanaDDDHa 
naDBDnnDDDDQ cca 
DDKnaaaanaaaDUJD 

DBDDDBDDGBDDCBDU 
BnnDH-DDEJnDDBUCn 

Drawing'-in Draft. 

D' "B8D[:FH""nisHcr.!rn 

BBGDHiin-i-'liiia- BttCG 

ReL'd Fi.m. 



nDDBDGBD 

■aoMDHija 

UunUu'Juli 
UUDBCjUbU 
DUBktblBBHi 
□UBUULIL^M 
DBBUIBUlIU 
DDLJUIBUIlin 
DQBUUUUU 
BBUUUQDa 

Chain Draft. 



■ Ground Weave —^ twill, 
a Means Hoats ot PUe Filling 
H Means sinking of Pile Filling under the warp for the purpose of binding 

pile, this to be woven in a pick and 
pick loom. 

Finish — ^Woven in the gray and dyed 
in the piece. 

CORDUROY. 

Four square inches equals 21.2 grains. 

Finished width, 31 inches equals 13.51 

ounces. 

48 ends per inch 2-28s cotton warp. 

160 picks per inch l-24s cotton ground 

filling. 
240 picks per inch l-20s cotton pile 
filling. 

The above equals finished cloth. 

Twenty pieces warp yarn, two inches 
equals 40 inches equals .65 grains; 40x 
7000 equals 280000 divided by .65 equals 
480769, equals 11965.8 divided by 840 
equals 14.24 or 2-28s cotton warp yam. 

Eighty pieces ground filling, two 



46 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



inches equals 160 inches equals 1.55 
grains; 160x7000 equals 1120000,divide(l 
by 1.55 equals 722580, divided by 36 
equals 20071.66, divided by 840 equals 
23.89 or l-24s cotton ground filling. 

Weight of pile filling per one-half 
inch finished cloth two inches wide, 
equals 2.6 grains. 

2.6 girains x 15^^ equals 40.32x72 equals 
3097.5 grains divided by 437.5 equals 
7.08 ounces. Pile filling per yard, cloth 
31 inches wide. 

Forty-eight ends per inch finished 
times 31 inches equals 1488 yards plus 
10 per cent take up in weaving equals 
1653 yards of 2-28s cotton warp equals 
2.249 ounces. 

160 ground picks times 31 equals 4960 
yards of l-24s cotton filling equals 3.- 
936 ounces. 

240 picks times 31 equals 7440 
yards of l-20s cotton pile filling equals 
7.0S ounces. 

7440 yards times 16 equals 119040 
yards divided by 840, equals 1417, di- 
vided by 7.0S equals l-20s pile filling. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

36 ends per inch in reed; 38% 
inches wide, 10 per cent take-up; 25 
per cent contraction in width from 
reed to finished fabric; 18 per cent in- 
crease in weight in dyeing. 

COLOR— DARK GREEN. 
To be used for upholstery purposes. 
— ? twill weave. 

Filling: 1 ground pick, 2 pile pick, 1 
ground pick, 1 pile pick. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Yarn suitable for making corduroy 
is made in the second division of mills, 
given in a previous lesson. The raw 
stock used should be of a good grade 
cotton of about 1 inch staple. The 
mixings should be as large as possible' 
for reasons already stated in previous 
lessons. One large group of mills, 
which make this class of goods, use a 
somewhat different machine for open- 
ing up the raw cotton from that which 
has been described, and instead of us- 
ing an opener after the cotton is put 
through the bale breaker, it is fed to 
a machine called 

THE WILLOW. 
The cotton is fed into the machine in 
small lots and the machine pulls it 
apart and thoroughly airs it. Some 
overseers claim that this machine treats 
the cotton to a more thorough airing 
than when an opener is used. It is 
again claimed that, in consequence of 
this fact, the cotton may be used right 



from the bale or mixed at this ma- 
chine. It is an English machine, and 
while this system is used to some ex- 
tent in England, it is the general cus- 
tom to use the opener in this country. 
Good sliver waste from the cards and 
drawing frames is used in the mixing, 
as is also the sliver and lap waste,from 
the comber room, when the mill is 
equipped with combers. 

TWO PROCESSES OF PICKERS 
are used with either a willow or an 
opener. Cut-roving waste is used and 
is mixed in at the finisher picker in the 
way that has been described in a pre- 
vious lesson. If an opener is used, the 
speed of the beater should be about 
1,000 to 1,100 revolutions per minute, 
with a speed of the fan about 350 rev- 
olutions per minute. The speed of the 
beater at the breaker picker should be 
about 1.500 revolutions per minute, and 
the speed of the fan about 1,400 revolu,- 
tions per minute. A good weight for 
the lap made at the breaker picker is 
40 pounds, while a good weight per 
j^ard of lap is 16 ounces. At the fin- 
isher picker the speed of the beater 
should be 1,450 revolutions per minute 
for a two-bladed beater, or 9.50 revo- 
lutions per minute for a three-bladed 
beater. The speed of the fan should 
be about 1,100 revolutions per minute 
with either beater. 

A GOOD WEIGHT 
for the lap would be about 38 pounds 
and the weight per yard 14 ounces. To 
get the gTade of cotton used for this 
class of cloth clean, about 42 beats 
should be given to every inch of cot- 
ton fed at the back of the finisher pick- 
er. In other words, every inch of cot- 
ton should be struck 42 times before 
it is passed by the beater. With the 
above speed of the beater (1,450) this 
would be the number of blows that 
every inch of cotton received. Don't 
forget that it is very important to re- 
move the fly from underneath the pick- 
ers at regular intervals during the day, 
bexjause, if the fly is allowed to accum- 
ulate to any great extent, it might be 
drawn into the already cleaned cotton 
passing through the machine, and it is 
sometimes done as all persons work- 
ing around cards know, as they have 
seen at various times large patches of 
fly on the lap of cotton. This of course 
requires the card 

TO DO EXTRA WORK 
and clean and take out this dirt. It 
very often results in bringing up the 
feed roll or the licker-in of the card, 
if not noticed in time to remove the 
fly. It will be seen that it is important 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



47 



to keep thei picker room clean at all 
times. It is very impoirtant to keep 
foreign matter, sucli as nails or pieces 
of metal, out of the cotton in the pick- 
er room, because of the liability of fires 
in the pickers, these being started by 
the foreign substance coming in con- 
tact with the quick moving beater 
blades and a spark being struck which 
ignites the cotton. This is apt to 
cause a bad fire if not promptly at- 
tended to. The 

SETTINGS OF THE CARD 

should be the same as given in a pre- 
vious lesson on yarn, made in the sec- 
ond division of mills. The draft of 
the card should be about 100 to 125 for 
this class of cotton, the weight of the 
sliver at the front ^5 grains to the 
yard; production, about 800 pounds per 
week of 60 hours. Three processes of 
drawing are used,the weight at the fin- 
isher drawing being 70 grains per yard. 
The hank roving at the slubber should 
be about .55. The two-process fly 
frame is used, the hank at the first in- 
termediate being 2, and at the second 
intermediate 6.00 hank roving. The 
rule for settings at these machines for 
this hank of roving has been given. 

The spinning frame spins all the re- 
quired counts for this hank roving, 
which, of the corduroy under descrip- 
tion, is 20s, 24s, and 28s, by changing 
the draft gear. The 28s yarn is then 
taken to the twister and doubled, so 
as to make 2-2Ss. A good sizing for 
the slasher for this class of goods is as 
follows: Water, 100 gallons; potato 
starch, 70 pounds; tallow, four pounds; 
turpentine, one pint. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

These goods are dyed at the jigger 
machine, a piece of 30 pounds being 
dyed. Care must be taken not to crush 
the pile. 

One-dip colors are used for some 
goods, but, as the sulphur colors are so 
much improved, the bottom color is 
dyed with sulphur colors, and the 
goods topped with brighter aniline col- 
ors. 

COLOR NO. 1— BLACK. 

Blacks are sometimes dyed with a 
sulphur black as a bottom color. For 
,',0 pounds of cloth (all of these colors 
are for 30 pounds of cloth); 15 gallons 
liquor, 3 pounds immedial black V Ex., 
2 pounds sodium sulphide, 3 pounds sal 
soda, 3 pounds common salt. Dissolve 
in separate tub, boil and strain through 
cotton cloth. Add to jig, in two por- 



tions, at first two ends. Run for 30> 
minutes at boil. Rinse in jig. After- 
treat with 1 pound bichromate potash, 
one-half pound sulphate iron. Rinse 
well and dye logwood black. Rinse 
well and top with a paint color as 
Prussian blue, or dye with a basic 
color. 

ANOTHER BLACK. 

Dye as color No. 1, with immedial 
black, and top Avith oxy diamine black 
AM, and rinse. Top with basic color 
or paint with Prussian blue. 

DARK BLUE. 

2-4 pounds immedial blue C, 2-4 
pounds sulphide sodium, 3 pounds so- 
da ash, 3 pounds common salt at 175 
degrees F. Run 30 minutes. After- 
treat, cold 15 gallons liquor, 4 pounds 
peroxide soda, 6 ounces ammonia. Run 
20 minutes. 

For further batches, half the amount 
of drugs v^all suffice. The color can be 
shaded up with basic colors. 

TAN. 

1 pound immedial brown B, 1 pound 
sodium sulphide, 2 pounds sal soda, 
3 pounds common salt. Run at boil 
for 30 minutes. Top with Bismarck 
brown. 

BUFF. 

1 pound immedial bronze A, 2 ounces 
immedial yellow D, 2 pounds sodium 
sulphide, 2 pounds sal soda, 3 pounds 
common salt. Run at boil 30 minutes. 
Rinse and aftertreat. 1 pound bichro- 
mate of potash. 

PEARL. 

3 ounces immedial black V extra, 1 
ounce immedial brown B, 1 pound so- 
dium sulphide, 2 pounds sal soda, 2 
pounds common salt. Run at boil 30 
minutes. Aftertreat, Vz pound bichro- 
mate potash, yi pound sulphate copper. 

RED 

2 pounds diamine fast red F, 10 
pounds Glauber's salt. Run one hour 
at boil. Rinse. Aftertreat, V^. pound 
fiuoride chrome. Top with diamine 
scarlet or safranine. 

GREEN. 

1 pound immedial black V extra, 2 
pounds sodium sulphide, 2 pounds sal 
soda, 3 pounds common salt. Run 30 
minutes at boil. Rinse. Top with solid 
green crystals O. 

LIGHT GREEN. 

14 pound katigen chrome blue 5G, 1 
pound sodium sulphide, 2 pounds sal 



48 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. - 



soda, S pounds common salt. Run 30 
minutes at boil. Rinse. Top with 
auramine and green. 

OLIVE. 

1 pound pyrogene olive N, 2 pounds 
sodium sulphide, 2 pounds sal soda, 3 
pounds common salt. Run 30 minutes. 
Rinse. Top with auramine and Bis- 
marck brown. 

DARK BRO\ArN. 

2 pounds sulphur brown, 4 ounces 
sulphur black, 3 pounds sodium sul- 
phide, 3 pounds common salt. Run 30 
minutes. Rinse. Top with auramine 
green, Bismarck brown or paint a 
brown on top, or dye a cateohu and 
chrome bottom, and top with the above 
brown. 

♦-^-^ 



DIMITY. 



Dimity is a light-weight cotton wash 
fabric, the distinguishing feature of 
which is the cords or ribs running 



DaDHaaaBaDDEDaBH 
mDvamaaamaaamaaa 

DBDESaHDHDaDB ■■■ 

■OBasDaDnKaaaDDa 

DBDBDaiGIIDDaaDBaB 
BDBDnnvOBBBDBGDC 

DBaniDHoar_.aaBaBBa 

■aBDiSDBnBBBDBDDa 

Desiffn. 

□nnannnHDDnnoBrn 
DnisaaQaDDDDDBaDa 
nBDnnBaDnaaanncD 
BQDaaaDDBDDannDa 
Drawinff-in Draft. 

DnaBnnaHnnDBwnDn 

BaaDHBaGiBaBoaBaa 

I 3 ends 

per he<l(lle and dent. 

Keed Plan. 

DaCH 

aaaa 



Chain Draft. 

warpwise through the cloth, and pro- 
duced by doubling the warp threads in 
either heddle or reed in suflScient quan- 
tity to form the rib desired. 

Dimity is a ladies' summer dress fab- 
ric and is made of regular cotton yarn, 
from 1-60S to the very finest counts in 
both warp and filling, and is made in 
white and colors, solid white being 
used in the more expensive grades 
(warp and filling). 

Dimity is made in ribbed stripe ef- 
fects, and in such colors as ecru, pearl, 
light blue and blue. These colors are 
sometimes printed upon the face of the 
fabric, after it has been woven in the 
white. 



Jacquard scroll and other figures are 
printed upon the white dimity to create 
elaborate patterns. 

Dimity is always woven with a plain 

weave -^, and by printing fancy floral 
designs upon the white surface of the 
cloth, that compactness of texture is 
retained which the plain weave alone 
can give. If, for instance, the floral 
effect were woven into the cloth, ends 
and picks remaining the same as for 
the plain weave, there would be cre- 
ated loose places warpwise of the cloth, 
due to the warp floats in forming fig- 
ures. 

Dimity, being a light-weight fabric 
composed of very fine yarns, is there- 
fore best adapted to the lightest run- 
ning looms. A plain or dobby loom 
would be the most suitable for this 
fabric; one capable of weaving from 
two beams, as these are usually wov- 
en. 

Dimity is made in grades having 
from 64 ends and picks per inch to 100 
and more ends and picks per inch, the 
count of the yarn varying in accor- 
dance with the degree of texture de- 
sired. 

Dimity, as a dress fabric has a rath- 
er soft feel, and so receives but very 
slight amount of starch in finishing, 
which process includes washing, dry- 
ing and calendering the goods, which 
are afterward rolled or lapped into 
bolts, "each cut or piece constituting a 
bolt." Bach bolt or piece is then folded, 
the paper bands put on, and the goods 
are ready to pack and ship. 



Construction. 

One square inch equals .6 grain. 

281^x36 equals 1,026x6 equals 
615.6 divided by 1 square inch equals 
615.6 divided by 437.5 equals l.tOT 
ounces per yard; 281^ inches wide fin- 
ished. 

40 pieces white warp yarn x 1^/4 in- 
ches equals 50 inches equals .16 grains ;- 
50x7,000 equals 350,000, divided by 1-6 
equals 2,187,500, divided by 36 equals 
60,762, divided by 840 equals l-72s cot- 
ton warp. 

35 pieces white filling yarn x V/z in- 
ches equals 52 1^ inches equals 1.6 
grains. 52%x7,000 equals 367,500 divided 
by .16 equals 2,296,875 divided by 36 
equals 63,691 divided by 840 equals 
l-76s cotton filling. 

281/^ inches wide finished, 106 ends 
per inch finished, 84 picks per inch fin- 
ished, equals 29 3-5 inches in reed, 100 
ends per inch, 80 picks per inch loom, 

1,800 reed — 2 ends per dent (ground), 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



49 



•cord — 3 ends per dent and heddle, 5 per 
cent take-up in weaving. 

3,021 ends plus 5 per cent equals 3,180 
yards l-72s cotton warp equals .841 
ounces, 84 picks times 28% inches 
equals 2,394 yards l-76s cotton filling 
equals .6 ounces, total 1.441 ounces; 
1.441 ounces per yard finished. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Dimity, or rather the counts of 
yarn required to make this style of 
cloth, requires first-class machinery 
and it is, therefore, made in the third 
division of mills as given in a previous 
article. The grade and length of 
staple of the cotton used varies with 
the weight per yard of the cloth be- 
ing made and may be composed of 
1%-inch. Allen cotton to 2-iuch Sea 
Island cotton. For this lesson we 



beater. This gives the cotton passing 
through the finisher picker about 29 
blows or beats per inch. The laps 
should not be as heavy as when lower 
grades of cotton are used and a good 
weight of lap at the finisher picker is 
30 pounds or 10 ounces to the yard. 
The card setting points should be set 
as close as possible with the excep- 
tion of the feed plate to the licker-in. 
The space between these two parts 
should be increased to the correct 
length of the staple being used. The 

DRAFT OF THE CARD 

should be increased to 125 or even 
150, the speed of the licker-in made 
slower by lagging the licker-in pulley 
to 1014 inches, the speed of the fiats 
speed of the beater should also be 
slower and at the finisher picker 
increased and the sped of the doffer 




SAMPLES OF DIMITY. 



will consider the counts to be 80s 
and the cotton used to be 1%-inch 
Sea Island. The mixings should be 
large and cotton allowed to dry out 
before being worked. As Sea Island 
cotton is comparatively a clean cot- 
ton it 

REQUIRES LESS CLEANING 
than other cottons, and another rea- 
son for putting it through less proc- 
esses in the picker room is because of 
its length. If run through too many 
beaters the cotton is apt to be filled 
with neps. For Sea Island cotton of 
medium to long staple, i. e., from 1% 
to 21/4 inches, it is better to use only 
opener and one process of picking as 
compared with two processes of pick- 
ing for other grades of cotton. The 
should not exceed 1,000 revolutions 
per minute, for a rigid two-bladed 



slower. The production of the card 
for fine counts of Sea Island yarn 
should not exceed 350 pounds per 
week of 60 hours, the weight per 
yard at the card being 40 grains 
per yard. The stock is then passed 
to the comber room and is here 
passed through the sliver lap and the 
ribbon lap machines and from here 
to the comber. Generally seaking, 14 
ends are doubled at the sliver lap 
machine and the weight of the lap at 
the front is about 230 grains. Six laps 
are put up at the ribbon lap machine 
and the 

WEIGHT OF LAP DELIVERED 
is about 200 grains per yard. In very 
fine work only five laps are put up at 
the ribbon lap machine. The comber 
used is what is termed a six-headed 
comber, and the draft of this machine 



50 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



is considerable. The amount of waste 
taken out at the comber is more than 
that taken out of all the rest of the 
card room combined and for the cot- 
ton under description is from 20 to 
25 per cent. The weight of the sliver 
being delivered is about 34 graJins and 
the production of a six-head comb- 
er making 85 nips per minute is about 
240 pounds per week of 60 hours. 
The cotton is next put through two 
processes of drawing, the weight at 
the finisner drawing being 55 grains 
per yard. The slubber makes this 
sliver into a .80 hank roving. 

THE HANK ROVING 
at the first intermediate is 2.25; at 
the second intermediate 5.00 hank 
and at the jack 18.00 hank. Care 
should be taken with the settings of 
the lolls at all the machines, and also 
'the cotton in process should be kept 
as fiee from dirt and bunches as pos- 
sible. Cleaners should be frequently 
picked so that the bunches gathered 
on ttem will not pass through into the 
cleaned cotton. 

The cotton is next carried to the 
spinning room, some mills using ring 
frame yarn for both warp and filling 
and some mills using ring spinning 
for warp and mule spun yarn for fill- 
in e. We will consider that the warp 
yam is ring sipun and the fining is 
ring spun. The doublings at the ring 
frame are 2 into 1 and the draft of the 
machine about 9 minus. It will be 
understood that 

ONLY THE LATEST STYLES 
of ring frames can spin 80s yarn, ; ^d 
to do lit it is desirable to have the 
guide rolls rotate so that the roving 
being drawn over them will not be 
broken. For 80s yarn a good gauge 
of spindle is 2% inches with a 114, 
diameter ring and a 4%-inch traverse. 
The size traveler to be used varies 
and the correct one is only found by 
experimenting, but a good foundation 
to work from is a 22-0 traveler. The 
standard warp twist is 4.75 x square 
root of count. The speed of the 
spindles should be 9,400 revolutions 
per minute and the production about 
.32 pounds per spindle per week. 

The filling is made at the mule and 
all that need be said about this ma- 
chine is that the twist is less only 
3.25 X v..e square root of the counts 
being put in. A good size to use for 
slasher is as follows: Water, 100 
gallons; potato starch, 54 pounds; 
Yorkshire gum, 2 pounds; soap 
(white), 172 pounds; paraffin wax, 1 
pound. 



Dyeing Particulars. 
PINK. 

For 100 pounds of cloth, 1 ounce ben- 
zo fast pink 2BL, 10 per cent soap, 150 
degrees F. 

LIGHT SKY BLUE. 

% per cent immedial sky blue pow- 
der, 1 per cent sodium sulphide, 1 per 
cent soda ash, 10 per cent Glauber's 
salt; wash well and top with 1 ounce 
Methylene blue O 0. 

LIGHT GREEN. 
4 ounces brilliant benzo green B, % 
ounce chrysophenine, 10, per cent soap, 
150 deigrees F. 

PEARL. 
4 ounces immedial black NRT, 1/3 per 
cent sulphide sodium, % per cent soda 
ash, 2 per cent Glauber's salt. 
GRAY. 

4 per cent immedial black NRT, 14 
ounce immedial olive-B, V2 per cent 
sulphide soda, i/^ per cent soda ash, 2 
per cent Glauber's salt. 

LIGHT SLATE. 
14 pound immedial direct blue B, 14 
ounce immedial olive B, % pound sul- 
phide soda, % pound soda ash, 2 per 
cent Glauber's salt. 

SLATE. 
1% percent immedial black NRT, 1% 
per cent immedial direct blue B, 3 per 
cent sodium sulphide, 1 per cent so- 
da ash, 10 per cent Glauber's salt. 
ECRU. 
Vz per cent immedial bronze A, % 
ounce immedial yellow D, 1 pound so- 
dium sulphide, 1 pound soda ash, 10 
pounds Glauber's salt. 

LIGHT TAN. 
% per cent immedial cutch G, % per 
cent immedial orange C, 1 per cent 
sodium sulphide, 1 per cent soda ash, 
10 per cent Glauber's salt. 
NAVY BLUE. 
3% per cent immedial indone B, 2% 
per cent immedial direct blue B, 5 per 
cent sodium sulphide, 2 per cent soda 
ash, 20 per cent Glauber's salt. 
SCARLET. 

5 per cent benzo fast scarlet 8 BS, 30 
per cent Glauber's salt, 2 per cent soda 
ash. 

SALMON. 
4 per cent benzo fast orange S, 1 
ounce benzo fast scarlet 8 BS, 10 per 
cent Glauber's salt, 14 per cent soda- 
ash. 

MAUVE. 
4 ounces benzo fast violet R, 2 ounces ■ 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



St 



■benzo fast blue BN, 10 per cent Glau- 
ber's salt, Vz per cent soda ash. 



Finishing Particulars. 

Mix up cold Yz pound white German 
dextrine, 1 gallon water, boil one hour, 
and starch through mangle and dry 
over tenter frame. 



CHAMBRAY. 



Chamibray is a light-weight, single 
cloth fabric, that is always woven with 
a plain weave and always has a white 
selvedge. It is a staple fabric of 
many years' standing, being next in 
the line of cotton goods after the 
better grades of gingham. In effect 
it is a cloth having but one color in 
the warp, and woven with a white 
filling, this combination producing a 
solid color effect, the white filling 
having the chance of reducing any 
harshness of warp color in the cloth. 
COMPOSITION. 

Chambray is composed of one warp 



DBDaDIIDB 
■DBaBDBD 
DaDBDaOB 

Bnaaaaan 
aanaoaca 
BDaanaao 
aaaBDBDB 
BaaaaDBD 



□DDBDnna 
nDBDDaaD 

DBDDDBDa 
BDDDaDDD 
Brawing-in Draft 

DDBHDDBB 

EHGaiiianD 

Eeed Plan 



and one filling, either all cotton, cot- 
ton and silk, or all silk. It is made 
27 to 30 inches in width and of l-30s 
ootton warp to l-60s silk, the count of 
yarn being governed by the weight 
per yard desired. The weight per 
finished yard is 2 to 31/4 ounces. 

GOOD COLORS 
for the warp are navy blue, dark 
brown, pink, lavender, black, nile 
green, etc. 

This fabric is woven on any and 
all p^ain looms that will wewe other 
light-weight cloths, the lightest run- 
ning looms being the best on account 
of being easier on the fine warp 
yarns employed. It can be woven 
successfully on the Mutual or Fair- 
mount, Mason, Colvin, Lowell and 
other roller looms. 

Chambray, when . made of cotton 
warp and filling, receives a regular 
gingham finish, and the loom width 
can be restored to the goods during 
the finishing by the process of ten- 
teriug. 

TENTERING 
means the running of the goods over 
a machine, fitted underneath with a 
series of coils of steam pipe; the top 



of Dhe machine is fitted with an end- 
less chain (on either side). This 
chain has a row of steel needles 
standing erect upon its face. 

These chains are adjustable. This 
permits of altering the space between 
the chainsi, the idea being to set the 
chain the width desired, and as the 
machine runs, pass the needles 
through either selvedge, and the 
cloth is stretched to the width de- 
sired. 

To finiish chambray, first run 
through the sprinkler, then through 
a solution of warm size, to stiffen the 
fabric. After the sizing the goods 
are tentered, to widen and partly dry 
them, then run through the cylinders 
to complete drying and last the cal- 
ender to remove wrinkles, and to pro- 
duce smooth, evenly ironed finish. 

1 square inch equals 1.23 grains. 

27x36 equals 973x1.23 equals 1,195.- 
56 divided by 1 equals 1,195.56 divid- 
ed by 437.5 equals 2.736 ounces per 
yard. 

27 inches wide finished. 

15 pieces light blue warp yarn x 4 
inches equals 60 inches equals .58 
grains — 6 per cent weight size equals 
.5,452 grains — 15 per cent take-up 
equals .4,635 grains. 

60x7,000 equals 420,000 divided by 
.4,635 equals 906,148 divided by 36 
equals 25,176 divided by 840 equals 
l-30s warp. 

30 pieces white filling yam x 2 
inches equals 60 inches equals .55 
grains. 

60x7,000 equals 420,000 divided by 
.55 equals 763,636 divided by 36 equals 
21,214 divided by 840 equals l-36s 
filling. 

78 ends per inch finished and 60 
picks per inch finished equal 72 ends 
in reed per inch and 56 picks in loom 
per inch. 

6 per cent size on warp; 15 per 
cent take-up on warp; weaving. 

1,300 reed, 2 ends per dent. 

27 inches wide finished including 
selvedge. 

78 ends x 27 inches equals 2,106 plus 
32 ends white selvedge equals 2,138. 

2,106 blue ends + 15% take-up =2,477.65 
yards l-30s warp = 1.573 ozs. 

32 white ends + 15% take-up =37.65 
yards l-30s selvedge = .023 ozs, 

60 picks per inch x 27 inches = 1,620 
yards l-26s white fining = 1.186 ozs. 

2.782 028^ 

2.782 ounces per yard. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The required machines, etc., to 
make chambray belong to the second 



'52 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



division of mills as given in a previous 
lesson. For this class of goods a 
114 to 1%-inch staple American 
'Cotton may be used. Mix- 
ings should be large so that the yarn 
will always be as uniform as possible. 
After being run through the bale 
breaker, the cotton should be passed 
through an opener and two proc- 
esses; of picking. The usual points 
that have already been g'iven in con- 
nection with the picker room should 
be looked after and need not be re- 
;peaced here. The speed of the heat- 
her on opener is 1,050 revolutions per 
minute, fan 350 revolutions per min- 
ute, and be sure to keep hopper on this 
machine at least three-fourths full of 
cotton all the time that the machine is 
working. The speed of a two-bladed 
rigid beater at the breaker is 1,500 
revolutions per minute and the speed 
<of the fan 1,400 revolutions per min- 
ute. The lap at this machine weighs 
IG ounces to the yard or about 40 
pounds for the total weight of lap. 
The speed of the beater at the finish- 
'€r should be about 1,450 revolutions 
per minute and the fan 1,100 revolu- 
tions per miunte, the weight of the 
Jap, 14 ounces, the total weight of the 
lap being 39 pounds. Cut roving 
waste is mixed in with the good waste 
at tne finisher picker as usual. The 
settings of the card should be about 
as given in a previous lesson when 
•the settings for mills making ma- 
dium counts of yarn were given in de- 
•t"ii The draft of the card should be 
about 100 and the speed of the licker- 
In 300 revolutions per minute. The 
wire used should be No. 34 oncylinder 
and 35 on doffer and flats. The cards 
-should be ground at least once a 
jnonth and stripped three times a 
'day, for this class of goods. The 
weight per yard of sliver should be 
about 65 grains and the production 
per week 750 pounds. The cards 
should be cleaned thoroughly at least 
twice a day and the fronts should be 
cleaned at least twice more; the 
strips should be connected four times a 
day at regular intervals, for if mis is 
not done the strips are apt to get un- 
der the stripping comb and onto u^e 
flats, thus bringing up the comb and 
wire on to the flats. The flats should 
iDe ground at least once a month and 
a great deal of care should be taken 
with the setting of the grinding roll. 
Tjocau^-^ if ohis roll is set heavier on 
one side than on the other the cotton 
will not be evenly carded. 
THREE PROCESSES OF DRAWING. 
Three processes of draw'ing are 



used for this class of goods, lae 
speed of the front roll being ^.^ revo- 
lutions per minute and the weight of 
the sliver at the finisher drawing 
sihould be 72 grains per yard. Pro- 
duction for 60 hours, 1,620 pounds per 
head per week. A good setting for 
the rolls for 1% inch staple wonld 
be as follows: l^/^ inches between front 
and second rollS', 1% inches between 
second and third rolls and 1% inches 
between third and back rolls, ^ne 
slubber rolls' are read as follows: 
Front roll to middle roll 1% inches; 
middle to back roh IVz inches. The 
slubber makes the sliver into a .55 
hank roving. The hank roving at the 
first intermediate is 2.00 and fine frame 
6.00 hank. Keep the bunches out of 
the roving as much as possible and 
change the top leather rolls frequent- 
ly. Watch all your frames to see that 
no one frame* is making too much 
bad work either by a poor hand or 
through the machine not being prop- 
erly regulated. The 6.00 hank roving 
is taken to the spinning room and 
spun into 30s yarn, lo do this, the 
following is given as the best 
equipped frame: For filling for 3Us 
yarn most any high grade spindle 
may be used and good results ob- 
tained; gauge of frame 2% inches; 
diameter of ring 1% inches; length 
of traverse 6 inches and twist per 
inch 19.17. For 30s warp yarn, gauge 
of frame 2% inches; diameter of 
'ing 1% inches; length of traverse 
6% inches; twist per inch 26.02. 

A good size that may be used at 
the slasher for this class of goods is 
as follows: Water, luO gallons; corn 
starch, 50 pounds; tallow, 3 pounds; 
turpentine, 1 gill; boil 30 minutes. 



Dyeing Particulars. 
RED. 
^Vz per cent benzo fast red G L; 1 
per cent chrysiophenine; 30 per cent 
Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda, 
LAVENDER. 
% per cent benzo fast violet R; 2 
ounces benzo fast blue B N; 30 per 
cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 
NILE GREEN. 
5 per cent katigen green 2 B; 5 per 
cent sulphide soddum; 2 per cent 
sod'i,; 20 per cent Glauber's. 
PINK. 
5 per cent diamine rose, B D; 30 per 
cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 
OLIVE. 
3 per cent immedial olive B; 1^ per 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



53 



cent immedial black N B; 1 per cent 
immedial brown B; 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's; 4 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 
per cent soda. 

BLACK. 
15 per cent immedial black N N; 

15 per cent sulphide sodium; 30 per 
cent Glauber's; 3 per cent soda. 

NAVY BLUB. 
4 per cent immedial indone B; 5 
per cent immedial indone R; 9 per 
cent sodium sulphide; 30 per cent 
Glaubers; 3 per cent soda. 

DARK BROWN. 

15 per cent tetrazo sulphur brown 
B; 1 per cent tetrazo sulphur black; 

16 per cent sodium sulphide; 30 per 
cent Glauber's salt; 3 per cent soda. 

DARK SLATE. 
2 per cent immedial black N B; 2 
per cent immedial direct blue B; % 
per cent immedial yellow D; 30 per 
cent Glauber's salt; 3 per cent soda; 
5 per cent sulphide soda. 
DARK GREEN. 
8 per cent immedial dark green B; 
1 per cent immedial yellow D; 10 per 



cent sodium sulphide; 30 
Glauber's; 3 per cent soda. 
LIGHT BROWN. 
3 per cent thion brown 
cent sodium sulphide; 1 
soda; 20 per cent Gauber's. 



per cent 



G; 3 per 
per cent 



Finishing Particulars for Chambrays. 
STARCH. 
% pound corn starch; 1 gallon 
water, mix cold, and boil % hour; dry 
on cans and give a light calender. 



CANTON FLANNEL, 

Canton flannel is a narrow, heavy, 
all-cotton fabric, having a twill effect 
on one side of the cloth and a long, 
soft nap on the other side. It is al- 
ways made with one warp and one ffll- 
inig. The weave generally is a — ^ 
twill for the winter weights, and '— - 
twill foir summer weight. The warp is 
composed of regular cottom ytarns to 
which a very small percentage of size 
has heen added, say 2 or 3 per 
cent, just sufficient to allow the 
yarn to w'ith stand the operation of 
weaving. The filling is spun from 



a good grade of cotton, and is 
made with a slack twist to ena- 
ble it to nap more readily, as this por- 
tiom of the cloth is that which gives 
thie falbric its one disMngiuishing feat- 
ure. 

THE TWILL WEAVE 
is used in the constructiom of this^ fab- 
ric, because it permits of long re'gular 
floats in the filling effect of the weave, 
and these floats present aB excellent 
surface from Which to raise a aap. 
The other side of the cloth, beihg the 
warp effect of the twill weave, serves 
to create the diagonal rib or twill lines. 

These goods are made to sell at 27 
to 30 inches in width, at atoout 5% 
ounces, winter weiight, composed of 
1-lOs to l-6s warp and filling; also 3^/4 
ounces, summer weight, composed of 
l-20s to 1-14S warp and filling, the 
heavy, coarse yarn in eaich instance 
beiing the filling. 

Canton flannel can be woven on any 
single box-jplain loom. 

Summer' weiffhit three ounceiS'. 



DDBOGB 

amaama 
maomaa 

DDBDDB 

Danaaa 
maamaa 



naaBDODB 
aamzinaua 

DBDDDBDT 

■a -iDBDan 

DDDBDaDB 



Winter weight five ounces. 



DDBDnB 
DBDDBD 
■DDBDD 



□naBaDDB 

DDBDnnBD 

DBnauBna 

■DDaBDDD 



The nap is raised on the cloth by 
running the goods through a imachine 
built especially for this purpose. The 
machine consists of an iron frame hav- 
ing a serieis of rollers set within It, and 
ov«r these rollers the cloth passes. The 
napping itself is done by a roller .simi- 
lar tOi a fancy on a woolen card. The 
cloth in passing over the wooden roll- 
ers at length passes between the wire 
toothed roller and a wooden roller. 
The cloth is 'being drawn through the 
machine automatically in one direc- 
tion, and the wire-toothed roller re- 
volves in the opposite direction, and 
being set for a nap of desired height or 
Idftiness, the wire, coming in contact 
with the soft fllling yarn, brushes tTie 
fibre in suclh a manner as to cause it 
to stand out from the body of the fill- 
ing thread, hence the nap. 

Canton flannel :s taken direct from 
the loom, measured, napped and folded; 
then is ready to pack and ship. 
CANTON FLANNEL. 

4 square inches equals 9.25 grains. 
27% inches selling width. 27i4 x 36 
equals 981 x 9.25 equals 9,074.25 
divided by 4 equals 2,268.56 divided 



54 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



by 437.5 equals 5.185 ounces per yard. 
27% inclies finished. 

15 pieces warp x 3 inches equals 4t) 
inches equals 1.14 grains. 

45 X 7,000 equals 315,000 divided by 
1,14 equals 276,315.78 divided by 36 
equals 7,675.44 divided hy 840 equals 
9.14 or 1-lOs cotton warp. 

8 pieces filling x 5 inches equals 40 
in'ches equals 1.18 grains. 

40 X 7,000 equals 280,000 dlvfded by 
1.18 equals 237,288.13 divided By 36 
equals 6,591.33 divided" by 840 equals 
7.84 or l-8s cotton filling. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed 540 — 30 3-5 incihes, including 
seilvedge of 32 ends, 4 ends per dent. 
5 per cent take-up in weaving. 

68 ends per inch finished and 48 
picks per inch finished equals 5^0 ends 
per inch in loom and 44 picks per inch 
in loom. — 45s . twill weave. 1-lOs 
cotton warp. l-8s cotton filling. 

68 ends per inch x 27 equals l,8b6 
plus 32 equals 1,868 ends plus 5 per cent 
take-up equals 1,956 yards of 1-lOs co't- 
ton warp equals 3.725 ounces. 

48 picks X 271/4 equals 1,308 yards. 
l-8s cotton filling equals 3.114 ounces. 

3.725 ounces warp. 
3.114 ounces filling. 

6.839 ounces from loom. 

6.839 ounces loom. 
5.185 ounces finished. 

1.654 ounces loss in napping. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Canton flannel, or rather the counts 
oif yarns to niake this class of cloth, 
consists of a low grade of cotton of 
about three-foiurths to one inch in sta- 
ple, and the mills making Canton flan- 
nel belong to the first division of mills. 
The bales of raw stock are not sorted 
out as carefully as is the custom when 
fine yams are to be made, but all the 
bales should be stamped to get the 
length of Sitaple as near uniform as pos- 
sible. Larger mixings are used for 
this class of goods than when fine 
goods are being made, because more 
cotton is used, due to a larger produc- 
tion being turned off at each process. 
The cotton is sometimes piassed 
througb. a bale breaker, but more often 
is 

MIXED BY HAND, 
i. e., taken from the bale and broken 
into small bunches and thrown directly 
into the mixing bin.. The cotton is al- 
lowed to stand as long as possible to 
dry out and is then put through the 
opener. In some mills the wasite from 
the comber and card is put into the 
mixings in very small proportions, but 



more generally only the good waste 
is put in. The speed of the ibeater 
sihould be 1,050 revolutions per minute, 
it being remembered that the lower 
grades of cotton are dirtier than the 
higher grades and longer stapled cot- 
ton. It may seem strange to some of 
our readers that the speed of the beat- 
er of the opener is 1,050 revolutions per 
minutes for both low, medium and even 
high grades of cotton, but it must be 
rem'embered that the sitaples of the cot- 
tons differ and the speed of the beater 
really is based on so many blows or 
beats per minute; so that cotton Having 
a staple of three-fourths an inch re- 
ceives twice as many beats per inch 
as cotton one and one-half Inches in 
length, all other conditions remiaining 
the same. The above not only applies 
to the beaters on the op'eners, but also 
to all the pickers. In these lessons it 
is taken for granted that a two-Dladed 
beater of the ridged type is used, and 
for a three-bladed beater, the speed 
should be less, or as two is to three. 
Special speeds should be used for other 
makes of beaters, such as the vertical 
beater, porcupine beater and Kir&ch- 
ner beaters. T'wo proicesses of picking 
are used. The weigfliit per yard of 
lap is 40 pounds or 16 ounces to the 
yard. The speed of the finisiher beater 
is 1,450 revolutions per minute, and the 
finished lap weighs 39 pounds or 14% 
ounces to the ya.rd. The bars under 
the beaters should not be too close to- 
gether so that the dirt and foreign mat- 
ter in the cotton cannot drop thfougfh 
into the waste recepticle after it has 
been separated from the cotton and the 
dirt, etc., should be thus removed at 
regular intervals so as not to choke 
these beater bars and thus allow the 
dirt to pass through with tne good colt- 
ton. This class of goods should be 
carded on coarse wire. The 

DRAFT OF THE CARD 
sihould not exceed 100, and a draft of 90 
is much better as the stock will be 
handled better. The speed of the beat- 
er should be 300 revolutions per minute 
and a 26-inch diameter doffer should b© 
used when possible. The production of 
the card should be from 900 to 1,(100 
pounds of sliver per week of 60 ihours. 
Two processes of drawing are used, the 
speed of the front roll at each be- 
ing 400 revolutions per minute, tlie 
weigiht of the sliver at the finlisher be- 
ing 70 grains per yard, six ends being 
put up at the back. The hank roving 
made at the slubber should be about 
.50, or, say, .55. This is made into 
1.00 hand at the first intermediate and 
into a 4.00 roving at the second inter- 
mediate. The 1.00 hank roving is spun 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



55 



into a soft twisted 6-'ooumt cotton yarn 
in the spinning room, and the 4.00 is 
made into 20s soft twist yarn. A warp 
frame to malie 6s sihould have the fol- 
lowing particulars: Gauge of frame 
3 inches, diameter of ring 2^4 
inches, length of traverse 7 inches, or 
even more than this length may be 
used. FoT a filling frame for 20s, use 
2%-inch gauge of frame, IVs inch 
diameter of ring and 6i/^ inches lengtm 
of traverse. Remember that this class 
of goods requires a soft twist. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

The pieces lare run through the 
mapping maicihines and the fibre well 
falBBd, befoire the dyeing operation. 

The pieces are dyed in the. jig ma- 
dhine, or oontinnoTis dyeing machine, 
wthere the piece® are rnn over rollers, 
6-10 tiane® through the dyeing liquor, 
and then passed through two squeeze 
rollers. In the continuous maohlne the 
nap is not laid as much as in the jig. 

The colors generally dyed are one dip 
direct colors, bright shades being most- 
ly oalleid for. 

DIGHT BLUB. 

One per cent tetnazo sky blue; 20 per 
cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal soda. 

LIGHT BROWN. 

Two per cent tetrazo brown B; Vz 
per cent tetrazo yelloiw D; 25 per cent 
Glauber's; 1 per cent sal soda. 

PINK. 
One-half per cent diamine rose B 
D; 15 per cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal 
soda. 

RED. 
Four per cent benzo purpurine 4 B; 
30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal so- 

HBLIOTROPE. 

One-hallf per cent benzo fast violet 
R; % per cent ibenzo fast blue B N; 20 
per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 

GREEN. 
Three per cent diamine greem G; V?. 
per cent diamine fast yellow B; 30 per 
cen(t Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. 

SCARLET. 
Four per cent diamine scarlet B; 30 
per cent Glauber's; ?, per cent sal soda. 
OLIVE. 
Two per cent benzo dark green G G; 
2 per cent Ohrysophenine; 30 per cent 
Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. 
ORANGE. 
Two per cent benzo fast orange S; 30 
per cnt Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. 



BLUE. 

Four per cemt diamine brilliant Wue 
G; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal 
soda. 

ECRU. 

One-quarter per cent immedial yel- 
low D: % per cent immedial ciTtch G; 
2 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per cent 
soda; 20 per cent Glauber's salt. 
SLATE. 

One-half per cent benzo fast black; 
% per cent benzio fast blue B N; 30 per 
cent Glauber's salt; 2 per cent sal soda. 
MAROON. 

Three per cent diamine fast red F; 
1 per cent diamine bordeaux B; 30 per 
cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. 

When the pieces are dyed, well 
rinsed and dryed, tihey are run tnrough 
the napping maohine to finish the 
goods and raise the fibres. 



DUCK, 



Duck is a heavy weight, single cloth 
fabric, made from all-ootton yams. 
But one warp and one filling are neces- 
sary and these are usually of coarse, 
two-iply yarns -woven into a cloth hav- 



nananana 
BDaoaDaa 
DaDaaaria 
aDanaaaa 
Daaanaaa 
BaacDaaaa 
naaaDBDB 
aaa-BDaa 



□nnannoa 
nnanaDHD 
DBDDDann 

aDDDaDDD 
Drawing-m Draft 

nnaaDDBB 

BHDDEHCO 
Reed Plan 



ing a high texture. Duck has a stiTT, 
hard feel, whic'h fact imparts to it the 
splendid wearing qualities for which it 
is popularly known as a staple ma- 
terial. It is used principally in the 
manufacture of ^ails, tents, car cur- 
tains, etc., or for any other purpose, 
requiring a good water-tight faJbric, 
which will withstand rough usage. 
Duck is made 

IN A VARIETY OF GRADES 
weighing from 7 ounces to the yard, 27 
inches wide, to 25% ounces per yard, 
60 inches wide. The lighter weights in 
this faJbric are used extensively for 
awnings. These goods are either stripes 
or solid colors and are never plaided. 

The majority of these goods are made 
all white. 

Nearly all known textile colors are 
at times used in making color effects 
in this line, the most popular being 
dark brown and white, indigo blue and 
white, tan and white, tan and white 
twist and tan; all of which are fast 
colors. 



5G 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



Duck, being a hard, stiff fabric, 
caused by using coarse yarn at higb 
texture, necessitates the use of 

A HEAVIER LOOM 
than that used for an ordinary clotti. 
The duclc loom was built for this very 
purpose, and is entirely satisfactory, as 
it is a plain, single box cam loom, each 
part being heavier than its correspond- 
ing part in an ordinary light running 
plain loom. 

Duck is made also in ilght weights 
tor use as an outing trousering for men 
in solid black; also in paie blue, ecru, 
pink, etc., for ladies' shirtwaist suits. 

To finish this faJbric, it is taken from 
the lo'om and measured, then washed 
and sized, then dried and pressed. 

If a fancy, solid color is desired, the 
goods are dyed in the piece after the 
firsit washing. 

DUCK (AWNING STRIPE). 

4 square inches equals 11.7 grains. 
31 inches wide finished. 

31 X 36 equals 1,116 x 11.7 equals 
1,305.72 divided by 4 equals 3,264.3 
divided by 437.5 equals 7.461 ounces per 
yard, 31 inches wide. 

15 pieces tan warp yarn x 2i/^ inches 
equals 37% inches equals 1.6 grains. 
37% X 7,000 equals 262,500 divided by 
1,6 equals 164,062 divided by 36 equals 
4,557 divided by 840 equals 2-12s cotton. 

7 pieces tan filling yarn x 2% inches 
equals 17% inches equals .2 grains. 
171/2 X 7,000 equals 122,500 divided by 
2 equals 6,125,000 divided by 36 equals 
17,013 divided by 840 equate l-20s cot- 
ton. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed 900 — 2 ends per dent, 31 inches 
finished width. 20 per cent take-up in 
weaAarig. 

52 ends per inch finiste'd and 38 picks 
per inch finished equals 50 ends per 
inch reed and 36 picks per inch loom. 

52 X 31 = 1,612 ends + 20 per cent take-up 

= 2,015 yards 2-12s warp = 6.396 oz. 

38 X 31 = 1,178 yards l-20s filling = 1.121 oz. 

7.517 oz. 

Warp pattern: fancy colored (broad) 
stripes, plain weave — j. 

(HEAVY) DUCK (ARMY). 

4 square inches equals 17.2 grains. 
28% inches finished width. 28% x 36 
equals 1,026 x 17.2 equals 17,647.2 
divided by 4 equals 4,411.8 divided by 
437.5 equals 10.08 ounces per yard. 

17 pieces warp yarn x 2% inches 
equals 42% inches equals 2.4 grains. 
42% X 7,000 equals 297,500 divided by 
2.4 equals 123,958.3 divided by 36 equals 
3,443.3 divided by 840 equals % or 3-12s 
cotton. 

10 pieces filling yarn x 2 In'clies 



equals 20 inches equals .5 grains. 20 x 
7,000 equals 140,000 divided by .5 equals 
2,800,000 divided by 36 equals 77,777 
divided by 840 equals 1-9 or 2-18s cot- 
ton. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed 800—2 ends per dent, 28% 
inches finished width, 31 inches in reed, 
29 picks per inch filling. 20 per cent 
equals take-up in weaving, shr'inkage 
in length finishing. 8 ^er cent equals 
contraction in width in weaving. 

48 ends per inch finished and 32 picks 
per indh finished equals 44 ends per 
inch reed and 29 picks per inch loom. 

48 ends per inch x 2S%, inches = 1,368 ends 

+ 20% = 1,710 yards 3-12 = 8.14 oz. 

32 picks per inch x 28%. inches = 912 yards 
2-18 = 1,93 oz. 



Plain weave ^—; 



10.07 oz. 



(HEAVY) DUCK (CAR CURTAINS). 

Reed 800—2 ends per dent, 20 per 
cent take-up in weaving. 

48 ends per inch iinished and 29 picks 
per inch finished equals 44 ends per 
inch in reed and 26 picks per indh in 
loom. 

38 inches wide finished equals 16 
ounces per yard. 

2-8s cotton warp and filling, 50 inches 
wide, equals 21 ounces. 

Warp stripe patterns, 60 inches wide, 
equals 25% ounces. 

Filling all white, plain weave. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Duck is made from various grades 
of raw c'otton, accoTddng to the use to 
which it is going to be applied. Even 
Sea Island cotton of the longest sta- 
ple has been used to make duck cloth, 
but this is the . exception rather than 
the rule. When the longer and higher 
grades of raw stock are used, the cloth 
made is generally used for sail, and the 
Sea Island cotton was used to make 
into duck for one of the yachts which 
raced for the international cup. For 
the average use, however, 

THE STOCK USED 
is oif albont one inch staple and of a 
medium low grade of coitton. The class 
of mills making duck belongs to the 
firsit division of mills as given in a pre- 
vious lesson. The cotton is put 
through a bale breaker and from here 
is passed on to the mixing bin. At 
this bin good waste is mixed in, and 
sometim'es, dn the lower classes of 
ducking, comber waste and card waste 
are mixed in in small quantities. When 
waste is mixed with raw stock, it is 
mixed in certain fixed proportions, and 
should not be done in a haphazard 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



57 



way, because waste always makes the 
mixture give more or less trouible while 
in the earlier processes of handling 
than is the case when cotton is used 
by itsel'f. The cotton, after being 
mixed, is allowed to stand as long as 
po'ssible 'before using, for reasons al- 
ready given in previous lessons, and 
then is run through an opener and two 
proicesses of picks. As the lower 
grades of cotton are generally dirtier 
than the higher grades, a 

HIGHER SPEED OF THE BJATEH 
IS REQUIRED, 

so that the speed of the opener should 
be about 1,100 revolutions per minute, 
while the speed of the breaker picker 
should be at least 1,500 revolutions per 
minute, while the speed of the beater 
of the finisher picker should be 1,450 
revolutions per minute, or albout i'A 
beats per inch of stock. 

The lap at the breakers should weigh 
at least 40 pounds or 16 ounces to the 
yard, while at the finisher picker the 
lap should weigh 39 pounds or about 15 
ounces to the yard. If waste is used 
in the mixture, generally a great deal 
of trouble is found from what is called 
licking, i. e., where the lap does not 
unroll as it should, but layers adhere 
to one another. If the lap is not fixed 
It will be seen that 

UNEVEN YARN WILL RESULT. 
There are various causes for laps lick- 
ing, two of the principal ones (being the 
presence of too much waste in the mix- 
ture, the remedy for which is obvious; 
and second, that the current of air m 
the picker is not properly directed so 
that the greater part, if not all the cot- 
ton, after it has passed the beater, is 
not blown as it should be onto tTie top 
cage, but the air is so directed ttiat the 
cotton falls on both cages and a split 
in the lap is 'bound to occur and cause 
licking at the next proeess. Licking is 
always the cause of a great deal of 
trouble and should be stopped as 
quickly as possible. The lap is passefl 
onto the card, which, for this class of 
goods, is provided with a heavy wire. 
The 

DRAFT OF THE CARD 
should he about 90 to 100. The sliver 
should weigh at least 65 grains to tbe 
yard and the production should be as 
large as possiible, a good average 
ranging from 900 to 1,000 pounds per 
week. Cards should be stripped on this 
class of goods three times a day, and 
some overseers advocate four times a 
day, but this extra stripping is to be 
questioned as to advisability. The 
speed of the licker-in for this class of 
goods is 300 revolutions per minute. 



The cotton sliver is passed through 
three processes of drawing, the weight' 
of the finished slivers being 70 grams. 
From 'here it is passed to the slubber 
and made into .55 hank roving. From 
here it is passed through the first in- 
termediate and made into 1.10 hank, 
and onto the second intermediate and 
made into 3.00 hank. From here it is 
passed to the spinning room. For awn- 
ing stripes, this three hank roving is 
made into 12s warp and 20s filling, and 
for coarser ducking into 12s warp and 
18s filling. Good specifications for a 
filling ring frame are as follows: Gauge 
of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 
1% inches; length of 'traverse, QVz 
inches; and for a warp ring frame, 
gauge of frame, 3 inches; diameter of 
ring, 2% inches; traverse, 7 inclies. 
The yarn is then taken to the twister. 
and doubled as required. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
FOR AWNING DUCKS. 
As the color's for this fabric must 
be fast as possible to sunlight and 
rain, so the color will not fade, or run 
into the white stripes, only absolutely 
fkst. colors are dyed. The yarn is gen- 
erally dyed in the warp. 

INDIGO BLUE. 
Indigo blue has been dyed for these 
goods until recently, but immedial 
blues have been found to withstand ex- 
posure even better than indigo. 

Four and one-half per cent imme- 
dial indone B; 4% per cent immedial 
indone R; 9 per cent sulphide sodium; 
3 per cent soda, and 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

TURKEY RED. 

First, mordant with a solution of 
alizarine oil, 10 per cent; squeeze an(i 
dry; heat of 'bath 200 degrees F. 

Second, pass tbrough acetate of alu- 
mina at 8 degrees Tw. ; dry in hot air. 

Third, dung with cow dung ancl 
c'halk, at 120 degrees Tw., and rinse. 

Fourth, dye w^ith 10 per cent aliza- 
rine, zO per cent, 2 per cent 
alizarine oil, i/4 P'er cent tannic acid; 
get up to boil lin 45 minutes; iboil one 
hour. 

Fifth, dry without Washing and oit. 
5 per cent alizarine oil; dry. 

Sixth, steam in steaming box one 
hiour. 

Seventh, soap in three clean baths 
till warps are clean. 

BUFF. 

Pass through solution 10 gallons 
water, one pint nitrate iron, 33 degrees 
Tw., squeeze, pass through solution 1I> 
gallons water, one pint caustic soda,. 



8S 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



and rinse. Repeat operation till shade 
is dark enough; rinse well. 

CHROME YELLOW. 

Pass through solution 10 gallons 
water, one pound white sugar lead, 
squeeze, pass through solution 10 gal- 
lons water, one pound hichrome, four 
pounds common salt; rinse well. 

CHROME ORANGE. 

Pass through solution of sugar lead, 
24 degrees T'w., squeeze. Pass througn 
hot lime water, squeeze, dhrome, two 
ounces to gallon boiling, squeeze; run 
fhroug'h hot lime water and rinse. 

LIGHT BROWN. 

Four per cent immedial cutch C; 
4 per cent imm'edial brown B; 8 per 
<:ent sulphide soda;. 3 per cent soda; 
30 per cenlt Glauber's; rinse, after 
treated to make color much faster: 
2 per cent blue stone; 2 per cent 
chrome; 3 per cent acetic acid; rinse 
and soap. 

DARK BROWN. 

Six per cent immedial cutch G; 6 per 
cent immedial brown B; % per cent 
immedial black N R; 10 per cent sul- 
phide sodium; 3 per cent soda; 30 per 
<jent Glauber's; rinse, after treat: 2 per 
cent blue stone; 2 per cent chrome; 3 
Per cent acetic acid; rinse and soap. 

MAROON. 

Six per cent immedial maroon B; 6 
per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent 
soda; 30 per cent Glauber's; rinse, after 
treat: 1 per cent iblue stone; 1 per cent 
chrome; 3 per cent acetic acid; rinse 
^n'd soap. 

LIGHT GREEN. 

Three per cent immedial indone B; 
2 per cent immedial yellow D; 5 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda; 
25 per cent Glauber's; after treat; 3 
per cent blue stone; 3 per cent chrome; 
2 per cent acetic acid. 

DARK GREEN. 

Eight per cent katigen ihdigq_ B; 4 
per cent katigen chro'me brown 5 G; 8 
per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent 
soda; 25 per cent Glauber's; after 
treat: 3 per cent blue stone; 3 per cent 
chrome; 3 per cent acetic acid; rinse 
and soap. 

BLACK. 

Fifteen per cent immedial black N 
'N; 13 per cent sodium sulph-de; 3 per 
cent soda; 30 per cent Glauber's; -rinse, 
after treat: 3 per cent blue stone; 
3 per cent chrome; 3 per cent acetic 
acid; rinse and soap. 



DARK SLATE. 

Three per cent immedial Mack V 
Ex.; 3 per cent sodum sulphide; 2 per 
cent soda; 20 per cent Glauber's; rinse, 
after treat: 1 per cent blue stone; 1 
per cent chrome; 2 per cent acetic 
acid; rinBe and soap. 

ARMY DUCK. 

Army duck has been always dyed the 
old, reliable cutch and chrome brown. 
First, pass through a boiling solution 
of outoh logwood and fustic or cutch 
alone, and then through solution or 
boiling chrome and sometimes a weak 
solution of nitrate of iron for after 
treatment; rinse and soap. 

Army duck can be dyed with sul- 
phur colors: 5 per cent immedial cutch 
O; 1 per cent immedial brown R R; 
rinse and treat: 1% per cent blue 
stone; 2 per cent chrome; rinse and 
soap. 



STRIPES-HICKORY STRIPES. 



This is an all cotton light-weight 
fabric, averaging ahout five ounces per 
yard finished. In appearance it resem- 
bles tickingi,although it is of lower tex- 
ture and has a softer feel, due to the 
process of finishing. It is always 



woven with a 



regular 45 degrees 



right-hand twill (warp effect) and in 
two colors, blue and white or brown 
and white in the warp and all white 
filling-, thus forming warp stripe pat- 
terns. 

It is used in the rural mountain dis- 
tricts of a few of the middle and 
southern states as a material for 
men's pants and shirts, as these two 
garments constitute about all the 
clothing necessary in stich sections for 
most all season.s of the year. It is 
A TOUGH PLIABLE FABRIC, 
having good wearing qualities and on 
the principle of economy is well 
adapted to the needs of the poorer 
white laboring class of the South. 

This fabric is made of regular cot- 
ton yarns, l-14s and 1-1 6s warp and 
filling, and is woven to finish about 27 
inches in width. 

It can be woven on any plain 
loom and is usually drawn in 
on cotton harness, as these are 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



59 



■clieaper, in the estimation of the 
southern cotton manufacturer, as he 
can use up old stock in the spinning 
of cotton harness cord, and in this 
manner, to a certain extent, create a 
by-product as against the cost of 
equipping the plant with wire heddles 
and other necessary findings — harness 
rods, frames, etc. 

To finish hickory stripe, the cloth is 
taken from the loom and measured, 
then it is sheared, sized and pressed, it 
is then rolled or lapped and is ready 
to pack and ship. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Four square inches equals 9.25 grain. 
27x36 equals 972x92 equals 8,991.00 



□BBDHB 
■BaHBO 
■aHHQH 

ammamu 
Knaama 
■Damaa 



DDBDna 
Daaaaa 

■DDBDD 

Dra wing-in 

Draft 

DDDHBI 

■■anaa 

Heed Flaa 



divided by 4 equals 2,247.75 divided by 
437.5 equals 5.137 ounces per yard. 

15 pieces blue warp yarn times 4 
inches equals GO inches equals one 
grain. 60x7,000 equals 420,000 divided by 
.1 equals 4,200,000 divided by 36 equals 
116.666 divided by 840 equals l-14s cot- 
ton. 15 pieces white warp yarn times 4 
inches equals 60 inches equals .1 
grain. 15 pieces white filling yarn 
times 4 inches equals 60 inches equals 
.9 grains. 60x7,000 equals 420,000 div- 
ided by .9 equals 466,666 divided by S6 



10% contraction in width In weaTlng. 
5% take-up in length in weaving. 
6 2-3% shrinkage in length In finishing. 
6% size on waip. 



Warp pattern. 
6 Blue. 
3 White. 
3 Blue. 
3 White. 

15 ends per repeat. 



equals 12,962.96 divided by 840 equalb 
l-14s cotton. 

Reed 800—3 ends per dent, 30 
Inches in reed, including selvedge, 
27 inches finished. Filling — all 
white. 74 ends per inch finished and 
60 picks per inch finished equals 66 
ends per inch loom, 56 picks per inch 
loom. 

74 ends per inch times 27 inches 
■equals 1,998 ends plus 24 selvedge 
equals 2,022 ends; 1,998 divided by 15 
equals 133 repeats plus 3 ends. 



9 blue ends per pattern times 133 
equals 1,197 plus 3 equals 1,200 blue 
ends. 6 white ends per pattern times 
133 equals 798 white ends, 24 white 
ends selvedge. 

1,200 blue ends f 5% take-up = 

1,263 yards 1-14 cot. =.... 1,718 ozs. 

798 white ends + 5% take-up = 840 

yards 1-14 cot. = 1.142 ozs. 

24 white selvedge = 25.26 yards 

1-14 cot. = 034 ozs. 

56 picks white filling x 30 = 1,680 

yards 1-14 cot. = 2.285 ozs. 

5.179 ozs. per yd. 

Finish equals sizing and pressing 
weave ^— warp effect 45 degrees twill. 

Dyeing Particulars. 

BLUE. 

Dye in the warp — 1% per cent im- 
medial indone 3B, 4 per cent immedial 
indone B. 4 per cent sodium sulphide, 
3 per cent soda, 30 per cent Glauber's, 
rinse well. 

DARK SLATE. 

4 per cent immedial black NR, 4 per 
cent sodium sulphide, 3 per cent soda, 
20 per cent Glauber's, rinse well. 

BLACK. 

1 per cent katigen black S W, 15 per 
cent sodium sulphide, 3 per cent soda, 
30 per cent Glauber's, rinse well. 

DARK BROWN. 

15 per cent katigen brown V, 15 per 
cent sulphide sodium, 3 per cent soda, 
30 per cent Glauber's, rinse well; 
starching, one gallon water, one-half 
pound cornstarch, mix cold, boil one 
hour, run through starch mangle and 
dry, give a light calendering. 



TICKING. 



Ticking is a single cloth, of either 
medium or heavy weight, and is cam- 
posed of single cotton yarns from l-14s 
to l-22s in -warp and filling or com- 
bination of both, such as 18s warp and 
20 filling. It is a good, stout cloth, 
having fine wearing qualities, and is 
used principally for making bed ticks 
and pillow and bolster cases. It is 
generally made with what is known as 
a bed-tick weave or — [• or ^ twill, 
either right or left handed 45s twill 
broken or herring-bonie. It can be 
woven in any power loom, but is^ best 



60 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



adapted to and most always woven in 
the 

PLAIN SINGLE BOX LOOMS. 

Ticking belongs to the family of 
stiff, hard face cotton fabrics. This 
feature is created by using twill 
weaves (warp effect), and these 
weaves permit of thei use of a more 
than ordinary high warp texture. For 

instance, take ^—^ twill: In this 
weave there are intevlacings of 
each warp thread in every four picks 
of filling, thus allowing ends to lie 
closely together — hence permitting an 
increase in ends per inch. 

These goiods are usually miade in 
two colored warp patterns — dark blue 
and white, red and white. 

WHITE FILLING IS USED IN ALL 
CASES. 

Fast colors should be used in warp 
as bed-ticks are sometimes ripped 



DaBHaBHaBnBBananniBanaBDaaaDBM 

BaBBaaBBDBBBDBBBnBBBDBBBBDBBBDBB 
BBaBBaDBBBBDBBBDBBBaBBBDBaDBBBaB 
BBBDBBBDBBDBBBaBaBDaBBDBBBBgBBBD 

DBBaaBBBBDBBaaaaBaBBBaBaDBBBDBaa 
BDBBBDBBaBaaDaaBDaBaDBaaaaaaaDaB 
BBDaaanaaaaaaaa aaaaBBBDaBDaBaDB 
BaaDaaaDaaaaBaDBaaaaaBGaaaaDBBaa 

Design and Weave. 

DDnaanDBnDanDDBDDnaDnnBDDnnBDnnB 
DnaDDnBDODDanDOBnDDBDDDBDDBnnaap 
DannnaDDaDDnanDnanDDanaDDaaDDBDa 
BaDaaDnDDBanDanoDBDnDBDDBDDQBDDa 

Drawing-in Draft. 

nnDnaBaannDDBaBannDnaBaannDaaaaB 
■■BBDcaaBaaBDDDaBBBaaaaaaaaaDDOD 

Reed Plan. 



open and the cloth washed. In this 
case the light and air renew the color- 
ing on the yarns. 

Ticking is woven with from 60 to 84 
ends and picks per inch in the looim, 
according to grade required. The 
greater the number of warp threads 
the stouter the fabric in proportion to 
counts of yarns used. 

To finish theise goods, they are 
brushed and sheared to reimove all 
lumps and foreign substances from the 
face of the cloth. Then the cloth is 
sized and calendered, which acts in 
the same manner as a hot press, after 
which the cloth is' lapped or rolled into 
bolts, then stitched, and is ready to 
pack and ship. 

CONSTRUCTION OF TICKING. 

Reed 725 — 33 inches, 4 ends per dent. 
1-16S warp, l-20s filling, 74 picksi; 12i^ 
per cent take-up in weaving; 10 per 
cent size on warp, 7 per cent size of 

cloth in finish; ^ — -^herring-bone twill 
weave; finish equals 31 1/^ inches, and 
includes brushing, shearing, sizing 
and calendering. 



WARP PATTERN. 
16 White. 
2 Blue. 
2 White. 
8 Blue. 
2 White. 
2 Blue. 
1 square in. =: 2.9 grains. 

31% times 36 equals 1,134 square 
inches times 2.9 equals 3,288.6 grains 
divided by 437.5 equals 7.51 ounces. 

18 piece warp yarn, 2 inches equals 
36 inches equals .55 grains; 36 x 7,000 
equals 252,000 divided by .55 equals 
45,818 divided by 36 equals 12,727 
divided by 840 equals l-16s warp yarn. 

20 pieces filling yarn 1% in. equals 
30 inches equals .34 grains. 

30 X 7,000 equals 210,000 divided by 
.34 equals 617,644 divided by 36 equals 
17,156 divided by 840 equals l-20s fill- 
ing yarn. 

92 ends per inch finished equals 80 
in reed. 

78 picks per inch finished equals 74 
in loom. 

92 X 311/^ equals 2,898 plus 24 equals 
2,922 ends. 

1,473 ends white equals 12% per cent 
takenup equals 1,683 yards. 

l-16s cotton warp equals 2 ounces. 

1,449 ends blue equals 12% per cent 
take-up equals 1,656 yards. 

l-16s cotton warp equals 1.97 ounces 
plus 22 per cent increase by dyeing 
equals 2.22 ounces. 

White warp yarn equals 2 ounces 
plus blue warp yarn equals 4.22 ounces 
plus 10 per cent size equals 4.64 
ounces. 

78 picks X 31% equals 2,457 yards 
l-20s filling equals 2.34 ounces. 

Warp weight equals 4.64 ounces plus 
filling weight equals 2.34 ounces plus 
7 per cent size in finishing equals 7.50. 



CardinCj and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns used in ticking are made 
in mills of the first division as given 
in a previous article. The length of 
the raw stock used varies in different 
mills according to the grade of tick- 
ing to be made, but is generally % 
to 1% inches in length. This does not 
mean that raw stock of from % to 1% 
inches is used in the same mixing, but 
that the mixing is made up of stock of 
uniform length. 

THE MIXINGS 

for this class of goods are generally 
made by hand and the bins should be 
made as large as ipiossible so as to 
acccmmodate large mixings. It would 
be better to have two large bins in- 
stead of one, so that one lot of raw 
stock could be opened and dried out 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



61 



while feeding tlie machines from the 
other bin. On this class of goods 
comber waste is used in some mills 
and the cut roving waste is also mixed 
as has been before stated. An opener 
and 

TWO PROCESSES OF PICKING 

are used and the lap should he made 
as heavy as possible without, of 
course, making it so heavy that it wiH 
bring up the cards and finisher picker. 
Keep the hopper of the opener as full 
as possible and you will find that an 
evener lap will be made. The speed 
of the fan of the opener should be 
1,100 revolutions per minute. The 
speed of the beater (of a two-bladed, 
rigid type) should be at least 15,000 
revolutions per minute, and the weight 
of lap about 40 pounds or 20 ounces in 
weight per yard. The lap is put up at 
the breaker and doubled four into one 
and delivered so as to weigh liVz 
ounces per yard or about 39 pounds for 
the whole lap. The 

SPEED OF THE BEATER 

on this machine should be 1,450 revolu- 
tions per minute. The beats per Inch 
that the cotton woiild receive would 
be about 42. See that all your drafts 
on the picker are properly regulated 
so that a lap will be obtained that will 
not s'plit. Of course, this is not the 
only reason that makes a lap split, but 
it is OTue of the principal ones. An- 
other cause for split laps is found in 
putting too much waste in the ^mixing. 
The lap is then put up at the card 
which should be provided with coarse 
wire fillet. The 

DRAFT OF THE CARD 

should not exceed 100. The weight of 
the sliver should be about 65 grains 
per yard and the iproduction about 1,- 
000 pounds per week of 60 hours. The 
cards should be ground at least once 
every month, having the grinding roll- 
ers on for at least a half a day. Of 
course, grinding means loss of produc- 
tion, but it has to be done; otherwise, 
bad work will result, and if you keep 
your wire sharp you will find that you 
will have less trouble with your cards 
and a great deal less kicking on ac- 
count of poor work. 

THE SETTINGS 

that should be used for this class of 
goods have been given in a previous 
lesson. The card sliver should be put 
through two processes of drawing, the 
sliver weighing 75 grains per yard at 
the finisher-drawing frame. Remem- 
ber to never draw more than you dou- 



ble. The sliver is passed through the 
slubber and the hank roving should 
be about .40. Set the rolls for yg-inch 
stock on this machine as follows: 
Front to imiddle, 1% inches; middle 
to back, 2 inches. Two processes of fly 
frames should be used, the hank roving 
being made at the first intermediate 
about 1.40, and at the second from 
3 to 3.40. 

THE SPINNING. 

This roving is then taken to the 
spinning room where it is spun into 
the required count. For 16s the follow- 
ing would be a good equipment for a 
warp frame: gauge of spindle, three 
inches; diameter of ring, two inches; 
length of traverse, seven inches; and 
for a filling frame: gauge of spindle, 
2% inches; diameter of ring, li/^ 
inches, and length of traverse, from 
QV2 to 6% inches, according to twist 
put in; the more twist the more length 
of traverse may be used. The produc- 
tion for a spinning fraime for 16s, with 
the speed of front roll 139 revolutions 
per miuiute, twist 19 and revolutions 
of spindles 8,300, would be about 3.15 
pounds per spindle per week. For a 
filling frame for 16s, with front roll 
speed of 159 revolutions per minute, 
twist, per inch 13, speed of spindles 
6,500 revolutions per minute, the pro- 
duction would be about 3.34 pounds 
per spindle per week. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

Formerly ticking had only blue 
stripes dyed indigo blue. For some 
time a variety of colors have been in- 
troduced, and now many colors are 
used, soime with narrow stripes mixed 
with broad stripes, having from three 
to five or more different colors in the 
same pattern. 

BLUE. 

Dyed with indigo or one of the sul- 
phur -blues. 

Eight per cent pyrogene indigo; 8 
per cent sulpliide sodium; 3 per cent 
soda ash; 20 per cent common salt. 

This color can be aftertreated with 
1% per cent chrome; l^/^ per cent cop- 
per sulphate; 3 per cent acetic acid, 
125 degrees F. 

ECRU. 

One-quarter per cent tetrazo cutch 
brown; % per cent tetrazo black N; 2 
per cent soda; 20 per cent Glauber's 
salt. 

LIGHT BROWN. 

Three per cent Thion brown G; 2 



'62 



A OOTTON FABRIC'S GLOSSARY, 



,P'er cent soda; 3 per cent sulphide 
soda; 20 per cent Glauber's salt. 

LIGHT SLATE. 

Three-fourths per cent Thion black 
B; 1% per cent sal soda; 1 per cent 
sulphide soda; 10 per cent Glauber's 
salt. 

RED. 

Three per cent tetrazo red, 4 B; 2 
per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glaub- 
•er's salt. 

DARK BROWN. 

One and one-quarter per cent Thion 
black B; 5 per cent Thion brown G; 
3 per cent &al soda; 6 per cent sul- 
phide soda; 20 per cent Glauber's salt. 

LIGHT BRONZE. 

One-quarter per cent tetrazo cblorine 
yellow G G; 1/4 per cent tetrazo black 
N; 1/4 per cent tetrazo brown R; 1 
per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glaub- 
er's salt. 

DRAB. 

One-eighth per cent benzo fast black; 
14 per cent chloramine yellow M; 1-lG 
per cent benzo fast red G L. 

LIGHT OLIVE. 

One-half per cent benzo dark green 
G G; y2 P'©r cent chrysophenine. 

DARK OLIVE. 

Four per cent benzo dark green G 
G; 2 per cent chrysophenine. The 
above three coloirs are each dyed with 
20 per cent Glauber's salt and 2 per 
»cent sal soda. 

DARK SLATE. 

Two and one-quarter per cent benzo 
fast black; % per cent benzo fast blue 
B N; 2 per cent sal soida; 20 per cent 
Glauber's sialt. 

WINE. 

Four per cent benzo fast scarlet 8 
B S; 1 per cent benzo fast violet R; 
2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent 
'Glauber's salt. 

LIGHT FAWN. 

One-half per cent diamine brown M ; 
% per cent diamine brown 3 G; 2 per 
cent Sial soda; 20 per cent Glauber's 
salt. 

STEEL. 

One-half per cent diamine steel blue 
L; 1/^ per cent diamine black B H; % 
per cent diamine fast yellow B; 2 per 
cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glauber's 

:salt. 



OSNABURG, 



Osnaburg is a coarse single cloth 
composed of all cotton yarns, l-16s, 
l-18s, 1-20S, wai'p and filling, and is 
made in warp stripe patterns and in 
checks, the colors invariably being 
indigo blue and white or dark brown 
and white. 

It is manufactured into overalls and 
jumpers or mock shirts, and is used in 
the South by the colored farm and 
plantation laborers. It is a strong fab- 
ric, having 

EXCELLENT WEARING QUALITIES, 

and is especially adapted to any pur- 





O'smajburg. 

pose wherein it must sustain rough 
usage. It is occasionally substituted 
for canvas or duck in making awnings 
for back porches in northern cities. In 
this case the stripe patterns are used. 
The check patterns, "produced by 
using the same pattern in warp and fill- 
ing," are usually broad effects, belong- 
ing, in fact, to the plaid order of pat- 
terns. These checks measure from one 
to two inches either way. 

WOVEN WITH A PLAIN LOOM. 
Osnaburg is always woven with a 
plain weave —^ , and in the stripe pat- 
terns the stripe is made with warp, 
all white filling being used. This line 
can be woven on any plain sheeting 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



6a 



loom as it requires but one filling box. 
Tlie check patterns are made on Ma- 
son box loom, Fairmount or Brides- 
burg loom, or any loom having a box 
motion attached. 

In arranging check or plaid pat- 
terns the strong, long or broad way 
of the pattern indicates the tilling and 
the greatest number of threads per 
inch indicate the vmrp, and to square a 
check or plaid pattern means to prac- 
tically produce the same color etfect 
in the filling as in the warp. Hence 
the filling pattern (total number of 
picks). 

MUST BE REDUCED 

so as to create a check or 
plaid pattern in which the filling 
arrangement is just noticeably 
longer in effect than in the warp pat- 
tern, the supposition being that as 
checks or plaids are worn they are al- 
ways observed at an angle of several 
degrees, thereby in a sense overcoming 
any reasonable excess in the length of 
filling pattern, as compared with that 
of the warp. 

Osnaburg is sometimes sized in the 
finishing, and at other times is not, 
this point being optional with the man- 
ufacturer in accordance with purpose 
for which the cloth is intended to be 
used. Generally it is taken from the 
loom, measured, run through the 
brusher, and after being lapped or 
rolled is pressed and put in the case 
and shipped. 



Construction — 30-inch Finish. 

Reed, 900 — 33% inches in reed, in- 
cluding 16 ends selvedge, two ends per 
dent; 1-16S warp and filling; 46 picks 
per inch filling; 10 per cent take-up: 
1,696 plus 16 equals 1,712 ends in warp. 
1,696 divided by 80 equals 21 patterns 
plus 16 ends plus selvedge. 

WARP PATTERN. 

36 blue ~| 
20 white | 

20 whfte j- Filling same. 
80 J 

40 ends blue per pattern x 21 equals 
840 plus 16 equals 856 ends blue; 40 
ends white per pattern x 21 equals 840 
plus 16 equals 856 ends white; 46 picks 
x33% equals 1,752 yards fi.lling equals 
876 yards blue, 876 yards white. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

As the cloth under description in this 
issue is made and used in the South, it 
is to a great extent made only in 
southern mills and the machines re- 
quired to produce this class of yarna 
belong to the first division of mills 
previously given, i. e., the mills mak- 
ing low and medium count yarns. The 
counts of the yarn required to make 
this class of g'oods vary from l-14s to 
1-20S warp and filling, but for this arti- 
cle we will assume the warp and fill- 
ing yams to be l-20s. These yarns are 
made from a short staple low-grade 
cotton of about % inch staple. 

THE MIXINGS 

should be as large as possible and the 
mixing is generally done by hand in 
southern mills. It is run through 2 
processes of picking and an opener and 
waste is sometimes used in the mixture, 
i. e., card strips and comber waste 
(when it is possible to obtain it). Too 
much waste should not be used because 
of the trouble that it gives on the ma- 
chines of the card room, such as lick- 
ing, etc. 

THE HOPPER 

should be kept as full as possible so 
that the amount of cotton fed to the 
opener will be as uniform as possible. 
It will be understood that if the hop- 
per is allowed to get almost empty be- 
fore filling it up the lifting apron 
of the hopper will not carry or lift as 
much cotton on its spikes and often- 
times there will be little or no cotton 
presented to the evener roller. This is 
sure to produce an uneven lap at the 
front of the breaker picker. If on the 
other hand the hopper is always kept 
full of cotton the lifting apron will al- 
ways have a surplus of cotton on it, 
this surplus being struck off by the 
evener and dropped back into the hop- 
per again. It will thus be seen that to 
keep the hopper more than half full all 
the time is 

ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT 
POINT'S 
of the picker room, because, if you have 
an uneven lap to start with, you will 
have to make the succeeding machines 
overwork to obtain an even j''arn. The 
speeds of the various parts of the 
picker should be about the same as 
g'iven in the last article and the weight 



856 ends blue + 10% take-up = 951 yards l-16s = 1.135 ounces) _y. 
856 ends white + 10% take-up = 951 yards l-16s = 1.135 ounces] "<"•'• 



876 yards I-16s = 1.043 ounces? „niino. 
876 yards I-I63 = 1.043 ounces] *1'"°b- 



Brush and press. 



4.3SS ounces. 



€4 



A COTTON FABRIC'S GLOSSARY. 



of the finished lap should be at least 39 
pounds at the finisher picker. Always 
keep laps enough of the card room so 
that, if an accident happens to tbe 
picking machinery, the cards will nor. 
be stopped for laps. Keep at least 10 
per cent ahead. 

The wire fillet used on the cards 
should be coarse, that used on the cyl- 
inder being 

ONE NUMBER COARSER 
than that used on the doffer and flats. 
A great many mills in the South use 
No. 33 wire on the cylinder and No. 34 
or No. 35 on the doffer and flats. On 
this class of goods use as large a di- 
ameter doffer as possible, either a 26 
or 27-inch. Grind cards often and 
keep top flats sharp, because, if the flats 
are dull, good carding cannot be ob- 
tained. The draft of the card for this 
class of goods should not exceed 100. 
The speed of the licker-in should be at 
least 350 revolutions per minute. The 

WEIGHT OF SLIVER 
at front should be about 65 grains per 
yard. The sliver is put through two 
processes of drawing, the weight of 
sliver at the front of the finishing be- 
ing about 70 grains per yard. The set- 
tings of the drawing frame rolls should 
be as follows: for %-inoh stock,front to 
second roll, 1% inches; second to third, 
1% inches; third to back, 1% to 2 in- 
ches. The slubber roving should be 
.50 hank. 

Two processes of fly frames are used, 
the hank roving at the first interme- 
diate being 1.50 and at the second 4.00 
hank. Always look out for bunches at 
the fly frames and be sure that your 
steel rolls are set to the best ad- 
vantage. Keep your 

TOP LEATHER ROLLS 
in perfect condition and do not run one 
that is cut, bruised, uneven or chan- 
neled. See that the traverse guides 
are all working so as not to make chan- 
neled rolls. The cotton roving is taken 
to the ring spinning room and here 
made into the required count of yarn. 
The following are good particulars to 
be used on 20s warp and filling on spin- 
ning frames: warp, gauge of spindle 
2'% inches; diameter of ring li/^ inches, 
length of traverse 6% inches; for fill- 
ing, gauge of spindle, 2% inches, di- 
ameter of ring li^ inches; length of 
traverse 6% inches; speed of spin- 
dles, 7,250 revolutions per minute. 
Use any of the best spindles on the 
spinning frame. The yarn is taken to 
the spooler room and spooled and then 
run on a warp beam.thence to the slash- 
er where it is sized and then is ready 



for weaving unless the yarn has to be 
dyed before being woven as in the pres- 
ent article. Then the method differs 
somewhat. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

Light blue is dyed with the ordinary 
indigo blue vat, but as sulphur blues 
are faster to exposure and washing,, 
they are mostly dyed. 

LIGHT BLUE. 

1 per cent immedial indone 3B, V2 per 
cent immedial indone B, 2 per cent 
sulphide sodium, 2 per cent soda, 20 per 
cent Glauber's. 

DARK BROWN. 

4 per cent immedial cutch 0, 6 per 
cent immedial brown A, 14 per cent 
immedial black NG, 10 per cent sodium 
sulphide, 3 per cent soda, 30 per cent 
Glauber's. 

SLATE. 
V/2 per cent katigen black SW, 2 per 
cent sulphide sodium, 2 per cent soda, 
30 per cent Glauber's. 
RED. 

5 per cent benzo fast red 4 BS, 3 per 
cent sal soda, 30 per cent Glauber's. 

LIGHT ORANGE. 

2 per cent immedial orange C, 2 per 
cent sodium sulphide. 3 per cent soda, 
20 per cent Glauber's. 

DRAB. 
1 per cent immedial black NG, 1 per 
cent immedial brown A, 2 per cent so- 
dium sulphide, 30 per cent Glauber's, 
3 per cent soda. 



SHEETING. 



S'heeting is a lig'ht-weight, single 
cloth, composed of all cotton yarns, 
from l-18s to l-40s warp and filling, 
standard goods weighing 2^/^ to 6 yards 
per pound. It is sold in 'both the gray 
and bleached sta;te, the bleaching being 
done after the cloth is woven. 

Sheeting is never made in colors or 
patterns, but always in solid bleached 
or unbleached effects, and is woven on 
any and all single box roller looms, 
such as Draper, Lowell, Mason, Colvin, 
Kil'burn & Lincoln, etc., cotton harness 
being used in most cases. 

The Draper loom has the peculiar ad- 
vantage over the other looms, in that 
it has an automatic warp stop mo- 
tion, which stops the looim when a 
warp end breaks, also having a filling 
hopper or magazine which holds 18 
filling bobbins, the filling replenishing 
itself in the shuttle as the boUbin be- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



65 



comes empty. All the looms have an 
automatic let-off motion to regulate 
the warp. 

Sheeting warps are all made on 
THE SLASHER, 
there (being either four or six beams to 
a set, and these are filled with yarn run 
from spools set in the creel rack oi 
the warp mill. Each beam has a pro- 
portionate numfber of the total warp 
ends, viz., 2,000 ends, four beams, equals 
500 ends per beam. These beams are 
set in regular order at the further end 
of the slasher frame. The total warp 
ends are then run througth a solution 
of size, and around the hot cylinder, 
and then upon a beam, thereiby sizing 
and beaming the warp at one operation. 

Sheeting requires nothing in the way 
of finishing, except being run through 
a plate folder, on which machine, hav- 
ing a brush attached, the cloth is at 
onco brushed and folded in any de- 
sired length of fold. 

36 inches is the standard width for 
sheeting. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Always a - — ■ plain weave. 

4 square inches ©quals 4.15 grains. 

36 X 36 equals 1,296 x 4.15 equals 
5,378.4 divided by 4 equals 1,344.6 
divided by 437.5 equals 3.07 ounces per 
yard. 

30 pieces yarn (warp) x 2% inches 
equals 70 inches equals .89 grains minus 
6 per cent size equals .83 grains. 70 x 
7,000 equals 490,000 divided by. 83 equals 
590,361 divided by 36 equals 16,399 
divided by 840 equals 19.5 or l-20s 
warp. 

60 pieces yarn (filling) x IVz inches 
equals 90 inches equals .89 grains. 90 
x 7,000 equals 630,000 divided by .89 
equals 707,864 divided by 36 equals 19,- 
662 divided 'by 840 equals 23.41 or l-24s 
filling. 

48 ends per inch plus 44 picks per 
inch equals 44 ends in reed and 42 picks 
in loom. 

Reed 800 — 2 ends per dent, 38 inches, 
including 16 ends selvedge, 6 per cent 
size on warp 10 per cent take-up on 
warp, 5% per cent contraction in width. 

1,728 plus 16 equals 1,744 ends plus 
10 per cent take-up equals 1,937 yards 
l-20s warp equals 1.83 ounces; 42 picks 
x 38 equals 1,586 yards, l-24s filling 
equals 1.25 ounces; total 3.08 ounces. 

Standard grades equals 36 inches 
wide. 

52 ends, 52 picks, l-20s cotton warp 
and filling; 6 per cent size, 5,i/^ per cent 
shrinkage in width in weaving; 3S 
inches In reed; 4.10 yard© per pound. 

64 ends, 64 picks, l-32s warp, l-40s 
filling; 6 per cent size, 5i/^ per cent 



shrinkage in width in weaving; 38 
inches ia reed; 5.86 yards per pound. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The counts of the yarns used in mak- 
ing sheetings vary in different parts of 
the country in different mills and even 
in the same mill two grades of sheet- 
ings are sometimes made. The mills 
that make sheetings may belong to 
any one of the three divisioms as given 
in a previous article. In this article 
we will consider the sheetings in two 
grades, the first being made up of 18s 
warp and the finer grade made up of 
40s warp and filling. The first or 

COARSE GRADES OF SHEETINGS 
are made in the first division of mills 
and the staple of cotton used would 
be about one incn in diameter. The 
mixing would in most cases oe per- 
formed by hand and should be as large 
as possible. It would be put through 
two processes of picking, first being 



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Plam Weave 



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Drawing- in Draft 

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iUtdPIaii 

run through an opener. The speeds of 
the various parts on the machines in 
this room would be as follows: Speed 
of beater on openers, 1,050 revolutions 
per minute; fan, 350; speed of beater 
on breaker picker, 1,500 revolutions per 
minute; speed of fan, 1,400 revolutions 
per minute; speed of beater on finish- 
er picker, 1,450 revolutions per minute; 
speed of fan, 1,100 revolutions per 
minute. The 

WEIGHT OF THE LAP 
at the different machines for this class 
of goods would be as follows: At tlie 
front of the breaker picker, 40 pounds 
or 16 ounces to the yard; at ithe front 
of the finisher picker, 39 pounds or 14i/^ 
ounces to the yard. Always keep the 
hopper of the opener full. The a'bove 
speeds and number of processies could 
also 'be used for fine sheetings, using 
40s yarn with the following exceptions: 
Instead of being mixed by hand, a bale 
breaker and conveying trunks "would 
be used, and the staple of cotton would 
be about 1% inches. The weight of iae 
lap at the breaker would be albout the 
same, but at the finisher picker would 
be less or about 35 pounds for the total 



66 



A GOTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



weigM of lap or 12^^ ounces to tlie 
yard. Always have laps of both 
classes uniform in weig'ht, and, if the 
laps vary one-'half pound in either 
direction from standard wedght, they 
should be set aside and put 'back into 
mixing. Use cut roving in the mixing, 
mixing it as shown in a previous arti- 
cle. Double four into one in the picker 
room. The 

SETTINGS FOR THE CARD 
for the coarse sheetings should be wide, 
because of the large weig'ht of cotton 
lap ibeing passed through, and coarse 
wire should be used, 33 on the cTlinder 
and 34 ou tops and d6ffer. The drafts 
should not exceed 100 and the produc- 
tion should he about 900 pounds per 
week of 60 hours, the weight of the 
sliver being 65 grains to the yard. The 
settings for the finer sheetinigs at the 
card should be closer and a fine wire 
fillet should be used. The draJft of the 
card should not be less than 100 and 
the production should not exceed 600 
pounds per week of 60 hours. Grind 
cards and tops as often as possible and 
strip three times a day on hoth grades 
of siheetings. Go over the settings after 
each grinding and keep cards clean. 

The coarser grade of sheeting Is put 
through 

TWO PROCESSES OF DRAWTNG, 
the weight per yard olf the sliver at the 
front being 70 grains per yard, the 
dou'blings heing six into oue and the 
speed of the front roll 400 revolutions 
per minute. The finer grade of sheet- 
ing is put through three processes 
of drawing, the other particulars Be- 
ing the same, excepting the settings, 
w'hich are wider. Good settings are 
as follows: For one inch stock, front 
to second roil, 1% inches; second to 
third roll, 1% inphes; third to back 
roll, iy2 inches; for 1% inch stock, 
from front to second, IVz i niches; sec- 
ond to third, 1% inches; third to hack, 
1% inches. Keep bottom steel rolls 
clean and top leather rolls s'hould al- 
ways be in perfect condition. Varnish 
those rolls at regular intervals and al- 
ways keep a supply of extra varnished 
rolls on hand, so thaJt imperfect rolls 
may he taken out at any time and re- 
placed By rolls in good condition. The 
hank of the roving at the front of the 
sluhher sihould he .55 to .50 in each 
case. The coarser sheeting yam has to 
be put through two processes of tty 
frames, the hank at the first intermie- 
dlate Being 1.50 and at the second 5 
hank. 

THE ROVING 
for making the finer sheeting passes 
through threeprooessesof fly frames, the 



hank roving at the different processea 
being as follows: First intermediate, 
1.50; second intermediate, 4, and fly 
frame, 10. The roving for both grades 
of sheetings are spun into yam on th« 
ring spinning frame. The particulars 
for a warp frame for spinning 18s be- 
ing No. 4 Draper, McMullen or Whitin 
sipindle; gauge of frame, 2% inches; 
diameter of ring 27 inches; traverse, 
7 inches; speed of spindle, 9,400 revolu- 
tions per minute, turning off about 2% 
pounds per spindle per week of 60 
hours. For a warp frame making 40a 
yarn, use No. 2 Draper, McMullen or 
Whitin spindle, gauge of frame 2%, 
inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; 
traverse, 6% inches; speed of spindle, 
10,000 revolutions per minute, produc- 
ing about .95 pounds per spindle per 
week of 60 hours. The warp yam la 
spooled and warped and run throug'h 
the slasher. A good 

SIZE MIXTURE 
for 18s yarn, one set of Beams, 1,500 to 
2,000 pounds, is as follows: 160 gallons 
of water, 100 pounds starch, 20 to 40 
pounds sizene (according to make), 2 
to 8 pounds tallow, according to results. 
For 68 X 68 heavy isheetings, with 223 
warp yarn, use 100 gallons water, 70 
pounds poitato sitarch, 4 pounds tallow 
aaid 1 pint lof turpentine. 



CHEVIOT SHIRTING, 



Cheviot shirting is a narrow, all-cot- 
ton fabric, weighing from four to five 
ounces per yard of 27 inches width 
finished and is composed of single 
or double ends in the warp and single 
filling. The effect of the double ends 
is -entirely different from th^at pro- 
duced by a two-ply thread, -and is 
really meant to create a r'ib weave ef- 
fect. 

This fabric is made of cotton yams, 
from l-16s to l-22s in the warp and 
filling, lanid the cloth contains from 40 
to 46 double ends per inch in warp and 
36 to 40 picks per inch in the filling. 
Another grade is made by w-eaving 36 
to 62 single ends per inch in the cloth, 
and 19 to 52 picks per inch in the fill- 
ing finished. 

BY THE FIRST METHOD 
there is produced a cloth that Is at 
once stout and pliaBle, and having ex- 
cellent wearing qualities. This clotih 
Is used principally in the manufactuii*e 
of shirts and mock shirts for the us© 
of workmen accustomed to rough., 
dirty work, such as miners and rail- 
road men, and those similarly em- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



67 



ployed. It is imiade iin stripe paitterm, 
uisually of ithe dairkiei- toines of fast 
colors, such as dark blue, dark ^brown, 
etc., in the wtarp, amd filling to match. 
In these warp sibrip'e patter ns^ tihie 
dark colors fonm the body or ground 
of the pattern an^d the white warp 
forms but a narrow pin sitriipe in the 
cloth. Then there are the light pat- 
terns, in whdch nearly all ithe bright 
colors are used, such as light bdu©, 
OTiange, reid, light green, ©be. In this 
case :the bO'dy or ground of the cloth is 
formed by the white warp, -and the 
bright color forms the pin stripe in 
the cloth. Print yams are occasional- 
ly introduced in the light colored pat- 
terns to create mixed color effeicts. 
The filling in the light patterns; is al- 
ways white. In making chieviiot shirt- 
ing itheine is nather 

A HEAVY SIZE 

placed upon the warp yam. This per- 
mits of the cloth retaining quite a 
percentage of size after weaving, and 
as this fabric receives nothing but 
sprinkling and pressing after leaving 
the loom, the excessive amount of size 
gives the fabric a better cover, feeil, 
and apparent bulk, which is its most 
distinguishng feature as a material for 
workmen's shirts. 

Cheviot shirting can be woven upon 
any plain roller loom, either single or 
double box, such as the Mason, Lewis- 
ton, Lowell, Colvin, Kilburn and Lin- 
coln, Mutual or Fairmount looms. It is 
generally drawn in and woven on 4 
hamessies so as not to crowd the hed- 
dles in weaving, as would be the case 
if but 2 harnesses were used. Most all 
cheviot shirting is woven with a plain 
weave, although sometimes a ^ — 

warp effect, 45 degree twill weave, is 
usied. 

CHEVIOT SHIRTING. 

1 square inch equals 1.83 grains. 
27x36 equals 972x1.83 equals 1,778.76 
divided by 1 square inch equals 1,778,- 
.76 divided by 437.5 equals 4.065 
ounces per yard. 

44 pieces white warp yarn x i/^ inich 
long equals 22 inches equals .35 grains. 
.35 grains minus 10 per cent size on 
warp equals .315 grains. 22x7,000 
equals 154,000 divided by .315 equals 
48,888 divided by 36 equals 1,357 divid- 
ed by 840 equals l-16s cotton. 

110 pieces blue warp yam x i/^ inch 
long equals 55 inches equals .9 grains. 
.9 grains minus 10 per cent size on 
warp equals .81 grains. 55x7,000 
equals 385,000 divided by .81 equals 
475,308 divided by 36 equals 13,203 di- 



vided by 840 equals 15.71 or l-16s cotp 
ton. 

15 pieces blue filling ya^rn x 2 indhes 
long equals^ 30 inches equals .45 grainis. 
30x7,000 equals 210,000 divided (by .45 
equals 466,666 divided iby 36 equals 12,- 
962.8 divided by 840 equals 15.43 or 1- 
16s cotton. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed, 700, 4 ecds per dent; 28^^ 
inches in reed iucluding selvedge. 

532 plus 10 equals 542 splits or 2,168 
ends; l-16s' cotton warp yam. 

38 picks per inch; l-ies blue cotton 
filling yarn. 

10 per ceut size on warp; 5^, 
per cent contraction in width in weav- 
ing. 

8 per cent take-up in length of warp 
in weaving. 

Finish' equals sprinkle and press 
equals 27 inches^ finished width. 

Plain weave, warp drawn in on 4 
harnesses. 



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Reed Plan 



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WARP PATTERN. 
8 blue. 
2 white. 
2 blue. 
2 white. 

14 ends per pattern. 

2,128 ends in warp divided by 14 
equals 152 repeats in pattern. 10 blue 
ends per pattern x 152 equals 1,520 
plus 40 ends blue selvedge equals 1,560 
ends, l-16s blue warp yarn. 4 white 
ends per pattern x 152 equals 608 ends, 
l-16s white warp yam. 

1,560 ends, l-16s blue warp yam plus 
8 per cent take-up equals 1,695 yards 
equals 2.017 ounces. 608 ends, l-16s 
white warp yam plus 8 per cent take- 
up equals 660 yards equals .785 ounces. 
38 picks, 1-16S blue filling yam x 28^ 
inches equals 1,083 yards equals 1.265 
ounces; total 4.067 ounces. 

4.067 ounces per yard, 27 Inches wide 
fimished. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The millSi which make the oountS' of 
5^ am required for cheviots^ ^belong to 
the second division, given in a previous 
article. This is one of thie coarser 



68 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



yarns •made in this division and is man- 
ufaciuired from istock of about 1 inoh 
in staple. The 'mixings should be as 
large as pos'sihle and are generally 
done by hand, lalthough this division 
of mills is igenerally equipped with a 
bale breaker. Of -coairsie, if the bale 
breaker is not too hard pushed or is 
S'topped on account of all ithe other 
bins iOif beitter grades of cotton being 
full, then the raw a'tock for ;thiis class 
of goods will be run -through the bale 
breaker. The bale breaker is capable 
of handling 80,000 to 90,000 pounds 
per week and requires laJbout 2 iron 
horse power to drive it. 

IF FLOOR SPACE IS AVAILABLE 

two mixing bims ishould be used in- 
stead of one for reasons before stated. 
The cotton, after being dried out, 
should be run through two- proeesses 
of picking an-d an opener. Keep the 
hopiaer of the opener as near full as 
possible to make an even lap at 'the 
front. Keep the pinroUer of the opener 
clear of all cotton, sio that it may be 
able to do its duty. On some makes 
this iroUer is a great deal of trouble, 
which is caused by the cotton adher- 
ing to it and winding around it until 
it does no!t strike the cotton from the 
liiftlng apron properly. This is espe- 
cially true when sliver waste (from 
all machines which make sliver) is 
mixed in with the raw stock at the 
liiuis (as is customary). The speed of 
thi© oipener beater for this elass of cot- 
ton 'Should be 1,100 revolutions per 
minute. The sp-eed -of the breaker 
beater should not exceed 1,500 revo- 
lutionise per minute. 

THE WEIGHT OF THE LAP 

at the front should be about 40 pounds 
or 16 O'unices to the yard of lap. Care 
should be taken that the drafts on 
both 'th'e breaker 'and finisher pickers 
are regulated to the best advantage so 
as to obtain a smooth, firm, even lap 
at th'e front. To do thiis the draft is 
directed iSO that the co'tton, after being 
acted irpon by the beiater, is blown O'U 
the top cage. The laps made at the 
breaker are put up at the back 'of the 
finiLsher p'icker and doubled 4 into 1. 
The' speed of the finisher picker beater 
should be 1,450 revolutions per m'inute, 
whicih gives 'this grade and staple of 
cotton 'Passing by it abiO'tit 42 beats to 
the inich. The weight of the total lap 
at the front ishould be about 39 poun'ds, 
which gives wh'at lis knoiwn as a 14i/^- 
ounoe (to the yard) lap. 
OILING. 
Take care to oil 'all rapidly moving 



parts of .the 'pickers at regular and fre- 
quent intervals .and keep all fly from 
oolleoting under these 'machines. See 
that the pickers are properly oleaning 
the cotton, and don't make the card do 
the picker's work. Th'e laps from the 
finisher picker are put up at the back 
of the card, the draft of which (for 
this class of goods) should. not exceed 
100. Th'e Wire fillet used should lalso 
be not too coarse. Always keep an eye 
on the se'ttiings land watch the flat 
waste, because firom th'e appeiarance of 
this "ftnaste we are able to tell whether 
the cotton is being 'piroperly carded oi 
not. 

THE SLIVER 

should W'eigh about 65 gramS' per yard 
and the produotion should be around 
900 pounds iper week of 60 hours. 
Keep 'Card wire sh'arp. Tlie sliver is 
next run through 3 processes of draw- 
ing, the d'oubling being 6 into 1. The 
weight of the finisher dirawing should 
be about 70 grains. The slubber rov- 
ing should be' about .50 hank -and there 
should be two processe'S 'Of fly frames. 
The roving at 'the first intermediate 
should be 1.50 and; at th'e S'econd ei- 
ther 4 'Or 4.50, according to whether 
warp 'Or fillin'g yarn Is' tO' be made 
from it, the fine ha'uk beiing made into 
22s filling yarn an'd the coiatrs'er hiank 
roving b'eing 'miade into 16is warp yam, 
Thie yaim for this^ class 'Of goodS' is 
spun on 

A RING SPINNING FRAME. 

the particulars of which are as fol- 
lows: For warp frame spinning 16s 
us'e McMullen, Whitin or Draper No. 
4 spindle; gauge of frame 2% iu'ches; 
diamieter of ring, 2 inches; length otf 
travers'e, 7 inches; speed of spindle, 
9,400 revoilutions per minute; for fill- 
ing frame making 22s, spindle as above 
except No. 2 Draper; gauge of spindle, 
2% inches; diameter 'Of ring, 1^ 
inches'; length of traverS'e, 6% inCh'es; 
Sipeed of spindle, 7,400 revolutions pel 
minute. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

Following are gO'O'd 'fo'rmulas for the 
colors use'd in dyeing che-yiot shirt- 
ings : 

LIGHT GREEN. 

2 per cent Immedial yellow D; 4 per 
cent immedial in done 3B; 5 per cent 
cent S'Odi'Uim sulphiide; 3 per ce-nt Glau- 
ber's; 3 per cent soda. 

ORANGE. 

4 per cent immedial orange C; 4 per 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda; 
30 per cent Glauber's. 

DARK BLUB. 

3 per cent immedial indone 3 B; 3 
per cent immedial indone R; 2 per cemt 
immedial indone B; 11 per cent sodium 
sulphide; 3 per cenit isioda; 30 per cent 
Glauber'Si. 

DARK BROWN. 

2 per cenit thion black B ; 8 per cent 
tMon brown G; 10 per cent sodium sul- 
phlide; 3 per cent soda; 30 per cent 
Glauber's. 

SLATE. 

2 per cent thion black B; 2 per cent 
sodium sulphide; 2 per cent soda; 20 
per cent Glauber's. 

RED. 

5 per cent benzo scarlet 4 BS; 
3 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

YELLOW. 

1 per cent chlioramine yellow M; 3 
per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

SALMON. 

V2 per cent benzo fast orange S; 2 
per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

OLIVE. 

5 per cent pyrogene olive N; 5 per 
cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda; 
30 per cent Glauber's. 

BLACK. 

15 per cent katigen black S W; 15 
per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent 
soda; 30 per cent Glauber's. 

AlJter dyeing, all of the colors' men- 
tioned must be well rinsed with three 
waters. A light soaping at thie bodl 
must thien be given, folloiwed by .an- 
other rinsing. The colors will be faist 
to washing and will not bleed into 
each other. 



NOVELTY DRESS GOODS. 



Novelty dress goods is a light-weight 
single cloth fabric, made from single 
and tw0"ply cotton yamsi in both warp 
and filling, and is woven in large and 
small plaidS', also solid colors. The 
distinct feature of this fabric is ifche 
promineiice given the heavy yarns^ 
which are ailways woven with a fancy 
weave in such a manner as to form 
an all-over effect ini imitation of a 
jacquard pattern. The ground or body 



of the cloth is usually woven with a 
plain weave, ' — . 

In the better grades of novelty dress 
goods, merino and silkoline yarns are 
often used. In making this class of 
goods it is sometimes necessary to use 
two beams in weaving, as the differ- 
ence of take-iup in the ground and fancy 
yarns will not permit of one beam be- 
ing used. 

Novelty dressi goods are made to 
weigh from 3 to 5 ounces per yard; 
generally l-20s to l-30s cotton ground 
warp and filling yarns, and 2-20s to 
2-40s, and 1-Ss to l-12s yarns are used 
to produce overplaided or novelty 
weave effects. 

This fabric is made in all dress 
goods colors 'and goods patterns pro- 
duced by using dark green, brown. 



Brown 
White 



' ■DaDaaBDaaHaBD 
I DaaaDaaaaaaaaa 
1 aoaaaaaDBDaaaa 

aBDBDaaaaaaeDa 
i aaBaHDaaBDBBDa 
> aaaaDBaaoBBoaa 

aDBDaDBDBDaaaa 

DaaBDBDBDaaBBB 

BDBDBDanBaaaBa 
DaaananaDaaaaa 
aaaanDnaoDaaaa 
DDDaaDDDDaDaDa 
DnnDDaanDnaDBD 
DcnDDonaaanBDa 

Design 



□nnaanncnDDDDB 
□DDDoar jDDDDDan 

DDnDDDDDDDOBDa 
□nDnnDnDDDBDDD 

oannGnDDBDDDDa 

nnDDDDDBDBDDDa 

DDnnDDBannDDQa 
DaDDDBnannanna 

DaaDaDDDDDDDDn 
DDaaDDDDDDDDnn 

naann "DDDnDDDD 

anaODDDDDODDDD 
Drawinc-ia Draft 

nDaaDDBanDaann 
■aaDBBDaBBDaaa 

Eeed Plan 



■DDBDI 
^BBDBE 
IDDI 



■ D 



DBBaaDBOBBDa 

■DDanaDHaaDB 
DaaDBDaaaaaa 
BDaBDBDaBDaa 

GBaDBDaaDBBB 

aDaaDBnaDBBB 
DaanaaaoDaaa 
aaDDDDDDanan 
DnaanDDDDBDa 
EQaDBBDpanaD 

LjLjULjL.u».fcU«La 
Cham Draft 



dark or cherry red, navy hlue, etc., for 
ground color and crossing these with 
black. 

Cotton novelty goods caai be woven 
in any power loom having a box mo- 
tion anid doibby or head motion at- 
tached. Mutual or Fairmount 4x1 hox 
looms, having either IngraJham, Old- 
ham or Stafford top, are all right for 
this line. 

To finish these goods, they are meas- 
ured, then brushed and run through 
a steam box to livem the colors, after 
which they are rolled and pressed, 
ready to pack and ship. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

27 inches finished. 

4 square inches equals 5.7 grains. 27 
x36 equals 972x5.7 equals 5,504.4 divid- 
ed by 4 equals 1,385 divided by 437.5 
equals 3.165 ounces per yard. 

20 pieces black warp yarn x 2 inches 
equals 40 Inches equals 1 grain. 40x 



70 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



7,000 equals 280,000 divided by 1 equals 
280,000 divided by 36 equals 7,777 di- 
vided by 840 equals 2-20 black warp. 

38 pieces brown, warp yarn x 2 inches 
equals 76 inches equals .92 grains. 7B 
x7,000 equals 532,000 divided by .92 
equals 578,260 divided by 36 equals 16,- 
062 divided by 840 equals 1-20 brown 
warp. 

12 pieces wliite warp yarn x 2 inches 
equals 24 inches equals .27 grains. 27x 
7,000 equals 108,000 divided by .27 
equals 622,222 divided by 36 equals 17,- 
284 divided by 840 equals 1-20 White 
warp. 

24 pieces 'black filling yarn x 3 inches 
equals 72 inches equals 1.45 grains. 
72x7,000 equals 504,000 divided by l.'io 
equals 347,586.2 divided by 36 equals 
9,655.17 divided by "840 equals 1-12 
black filling. 

17 pieces brown filling yarn x 3 
iniches equals 51 inches equals .5 grains. 

51x7,000 equals 357,000 divided by .5 
equals 7,140,000 divided by 36 equals 
198,333 divided by 840 equals 1-21 
brown. 

12 pieces white filling yarn x 3 
inches equals 36 inches equals. 35 grains. 
36x7,000 equals 252,000 divided by .35 
equals 7,200,000 divided by 36 equals 
200,000 divided by 840 equals 1-24 whTte 
filling. 

50 ends per Inch finished and 48 
picks per inch finished equals 44 ends 
per inch in reed and 43 picks per inch 
in loom. 

10 per cent take-up on w'hite and 
brown warp, 2 per cent ou black warp. 

WARP PATTERN. 
4 Brown'l 

4 Brown hFUling same. 
4 Black J 

32 ends white selvedge. 

Reed 800 — 2 ends per dent. 

SOVz inches in reed including sel- 
vedge. 

95 repeats of pattern plus 4 ends. 

1,334 ends plus 32 ends selvedge. 8 
brown per pat. x 95 patterns equals 760 
plus 4 equals 764 plus 10 per cent take- 
up equals 848.88 yards 1-20 equals 
.8084 ounces. 4 black per pat. x 95 pat- 
terns equals 380 plus 10 per cent take- 
up equals 400.00 yards 2-20 equa'ls .V619 
ounces. 2 white per pat. x 95 patterns 
equals 190 plus 10 per cent take-up 
equals 211.11 yards 1-20 equals .2010 
ounces. 32 white selvedge plus 15 per 
cent take-up equals 37.64 yards 1-20 
equals .0358 ounces. Total warp 
weight, 1.8071 ounces. 

8-14 of filling equals brown or 740.56 
yards 1-24 equals .5877 ounces. 4-14 
of filling equals black or 370.28 yards 
1-12 equals .5877 ounces. 2-14 of filling 



equals white or 185.14 yards 1-24 equals 
.1469 ounces. Total 3.1294. 
3.1294 ounces finished, 27 inches wide. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns for novelty dress goiods 
would probably be made in mills of 
the second division. For this class of 
goods three or more different counts 
of yarns are generally used, the counts 
varying from 4s to 40s, the medium 
yarn being from 20s to 30s. For the 
cloth under description we will con- 
sider that the yarns used are as fol- 
lows: 8s, to produce one effect and 
2-20s anoither, both of these yarns be- 
ing used on the face of 'the cloth, and 
l-30s for the ground warp and filling 
yarns. In some malls it is the custom 
to make all these counts of yarns from 
one staple and grade of cotton to save 
time and to reduce the number of mix- 
ings in order that the cotton may pass 
up to a certain point on the same ma- 
chines, the only difference being that 
the finier yarns are run through one 
more process of fly frames. While 
this undoubtedly saves time and ma- 
chines and may be done when the 
counts of yarn used in the cloth do 
not vary a great deal, still it is gener- 
ally the case to have two or even 
three different mixtures, one for the 
very coarsie, one for the medium and 
one for the fine yarns. In this lesson 
we will consider that there are 

TWO MIXINGS, 
or in other words, two grades and 
staples of raw stock used, one for the 
8s and another mixing for the 20s 
to 30s yarn. For 8s yarn the staple 
of the raw stock should be from % to 
1 inch in length arid for the finer 
counts, cotton of from 1% tol3-16incJi 
staple may be used. The %-inch stock 
would pToibab'ly be mixed 'by hand, i. e., 
taken from the bale and pulled into 
Simall bunches and spread in the mix- 
ing bin by the help. In this mixture 
all good waste of the same length r 
staple is usiod, the roving waste being 
treated, as previously mentioned; 
sometimes, but not often, comber 
waste is used, but a large percentage 
should not be used. 

FOR THE FINER COUNTS 
the raw stock would be run through 
a bale breaker or, if no bale breaker 
was in the mill equipment, then the 
cotton would be mixed by hand the 
same as cotton fo^r the coarser counts 
except that no comber waste would be 
used. Two processes of picking and an 
opener would he used with hoth proc- 
esses. All the points in connection 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



71 



witti the opener given in former ar- 
ticles should be carefully observed; 
the speed of the fan of the breaker 
should be about 1,500 revolutions per 
minute for both stocks and the weight 
of the laps 40 pounds or 16 ounces to 
the yard. The speed of the fan at the 
finisher picker should be a little less 
t'han at the breaker picker and the speed 
of the fan about 1,100 revolutions per 
minute. This gives the cotton passing 
under the action of the beater about 
42 beats or blows per inch. The weig'ht 
of the lap of tlie %-inch stock sliould 
be 39 pounds or 14 ounces to the yard, 
and for the finer counts of yarn, 35 
pounds or 12 1^ ounces to the yard. The 

DRAFT OF THE CARD 

for the coarser count should not exceed 
100 and for the finer count should 
not be less than 100. The same size 
of wire fillet may be used for both 
grades or, generally sipeaking. No. 33 
Mre fillet for cylinder and No. 34 wire 
fillet for doffer and top flats, 'ji'he 
main points of difference would be in 
the setting of the card for the dif- 
ferent stocks, the longer staple of cot- 
ton requiring the closer settings, the 
production for the "^-incti stock being 
900 pounds and for the 1%-inch stock 
from 750 to 800 pounds per week of 60 
hours. The doffer of the card s^hould 
be as large as possible in both cases, 
either 26 or 27 inch diameter. Keep 

THE CARD WIRE 
sharp and be sure that the wire on the 
fiats is of uniform length, because, if 
this is not the case, 'bad work is bound 
to result on account of the fact that 
even settings of the flats with the cyl- 
inder cannot be obtained. The weight 
per yard of the* sliver would be the 
same in both cottons or 65 grains per 
yard. The %-inc'h stock would be put 
through two processes of drawing 
and the longer staple three processes, 
doubled 6 into 1 in both cases. The 
weight of the sliver at the finisher 
drawing would be the saime, or y2 
grains per yard. The same hank rov- 
ing would be made at the slubber, or 
.55 ha.nk, althougfh the 

SETTINGS OF THE ROLLS 
of iboth oif the last named processes 
wooild be different. Only one process 
of drawing would 'be used on the %- 
inch S'tock and at the fly frame it 
•would be made into 1 ;hank roving and 
from here passed to the spinning room. 
For the 1 %-inch stock two processes 
would be used. At tlie first interme- 
diate the slufbiber roving would 'be 
made into 2 hank roving and at tbe 
second the roving for 20s count yarn 
would be made into 4 hank and for the 



30s count would ibe made into 6 hank. 
T'he roving would then be taken to 

THE SPINNING ROOM, 
wihere the required count would be 
spun. The particulars for a warp 
frame making 20s yarn have been giv- 
en in a previous lesson; for a warp 
frame making 8s, the following par- 
ticulars may be used; any high-grade 
spindle, length of traverse, 7 incn, 
gauge of spindle, 3% inches, diameter 
of ring, 2% inches, speed of spindle, 
8,100 revolutions per minute. For a 
warp frame making 30s use gauge of 
spindle, 2% inclies, diameter of ring, 
1% inches, length of traverse, 6 inches, 
speed of spindle, 9,800 revolutions per 
minute. T:he yarn is then spooled and 
warped and dyed. For some of the ef- 
fects produced in this class of goods 
two yarns of different colors are twist- 
ed together; for this a machine known 
as a twister is used, one thread of eacH 
color l)eing twisted together. 



Dyeing Particulars. 
DARK GREEN. 
4 per cent tetrazo brilliant green J; 
30 per cent Glauiber's; 3 per cent sal 
soda. 

RED. 
4 per cent tetrazo fast red 4 B; 30 
per cent Glauiber's; 3 per cent sa:l soda. 

LIGHT SKY BLUB. 

1 per cent tetrazo blue, 6 B new; 20 
per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 

WINE. 
3 per cent tetrazo corinth; 30 per 
cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. 

DARK BLUE. 

o per cent tetrazo blue B X; 30 per 
cent Glauber's; 2 p'cr cent sal soda. 

DARK BROWN. 
3 per cent tetrazo dark brown; '^ 
per cent tetrazo black brown; 30 per 
cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 

LILAC. 

2 per cent tetrazo chlorine lilac xi; 
2 per cent sal sioda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

LIGHT SLATE. 

14 per cent tetrazo black N; %: per 
cent tetrazo brilTiant l)lue B B; 2 per 
cent sal soda; 25 per cent Glauber's. 

DARK SLATE. 
1% per cent tetrazo black N; % per 
cent tetrazo blue 3 B; 2 per cent sal 
soda; 30 per cent Glauber's. 

OLIVE. 
1/4 per cent diamine fast yellow B; 



72 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



3 per cent diamine bronze G; 2 per cent 
sal soda; 30 per cent Glauber's. 

BLACK. 
5 per cent tetrazo black N; 3 per 
oemt sial sodia; 30 per cent Glauber's. 

NAVY BLUE. 

3 per cent tetrazo blue B X; ^ per 
cent tetrazo blue 4 R; 3 per cent sal 
soda; 30 per cent Glauber's. 

The above colors are for first batBs, 
for a standing bath. One-third of the 
color can be taken away from these 
amoiunts. After dyeing, yarn must be 
well rinsed in water. 



DRILL. 



Cotton drill is a medium weight, 
single cloth, weighing from 4 to 6 
ounces and composed of coarse all-cot- 
ton yarns, warp and filling. It is al- 
ways made with a small uneven sided 
twill weave, generally — ^ (warp ef- 
fect) twill weave. 

Drill is sometimes made from yams 
in the gray and afterwards dyed in 
the piece, or in solid warp color ef- 
fects, such as indigo blue and dark 
brown, white filling being used in each 
instance. 

It can be woven in any single box 
roller loom, such as Draper, Lowell, 
Lewiston, Colvin, Mason, or Kilburn 
& Lincoln, and is usually drawn in and 
woven on cotton harness, as these are 
light in weight and wear better than 
wire heddles for this style of cotton 
goods. 

THE WARP 

is beamed on the slasher, the warp 
proper being divided into a certain 
number of sections, in accordance with 
the number of ends to 'be used in the 
drill warp. These sections are beamed 
on the warp mill, the yarn being run 
on to the beam from the spools in the 
creel rack. The several section beams, 
when completed in the warp mill, are 
assembled in the beam rack at the end 
of the slasher and the yarn from each 
beam is run through the size tub and 
over the drying cylinder of the slash- 
er at the same time, on to the slash- 
er beam, thus making a complete 
warp, the sizing and beaming being 
done at one operation. 

Slasher warps do not have a lease 
in them, the yarn being kept nearly 
straight in place by the use of a slash- 
er comb, which is, in fact, a shallow 



reed having one open side. The comb 
is pressed through the threads, while 
they are spread taut in the slasher 
frame and a wooden cap is then fast- 
ened upon the open side of the slasher 
comb, thereby holding the yarn in 
place for the operation of drawing in. 

The drawing in is performed by 
girls, without the aid of a bander in, 
as is the case when pattern warps are 
drawn in from a lease. 

The drawer in for drill, -ases a three- 
bladed hook (a blade for each harness) 
and the harnesses or heddles are hung 
upon a rack immediately in front of 
the beamed wary. The drawer in, if 
experienced, will pick out three hed- 
dles and three ends at one time, and 
continue to do so until the total warp 
ends are threaded through the har- 
nesses or heddles. 

To finish colored drill, the goods are 
taken from the loom and run through 
the brusher, to remove all lint and 
waste threads, after which they are 
put through the size tubs and then dry 
x)rGSS6d,. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

4 square inches equals 9.95 grains. 
30x36 equals 1,080x9.95 equals 10,746 
divided by 4 equals 2,686.5 divided by 
437.5 equals 6.14 ounces per yard fin- 
ished. 

30 pieces blue warp x 2i/^ equals 75 
inches equals 1.9 grains. 75x7,000 
equals 525,000 divided by 1.9 equals 
276,315.8 divided by 36 equals 7,675.43 
divided by 840 equals 1-lOs cotton. 

30 pieces white filling x IVz equals 
45 inches equals .55 grains. 45x7,000 
equals 315,000 divided by .55 equals 
572,727 divided by 36 equals 15,909 
divided by 840 equals l-18s cotton. 

66 ends per inch finished and 48 
picks per inch finished equal 63 ends 
per inch loom and 44 picks per inch 
loom. 10 per cent take up in weaving 
minus 6i/^ per cent contraction in reed. 
16 ends selvedge. 30 inches finished 

equals 32 inches in — twill weave. 
750 reed minus 3 ends per dent. 
Finish equals size and dry press. 

66x30 equals 1,980 plus 16 equals 1,- 
996 plus 10 per cent equals 2,218 
yards 1-lOs cotton warp equals 4.224 
ounces. 48 picks x 30 equals 1,440 
yards, l-18s cotton filling equals 1.523 
ounces. 

4.224 ounces warp. 
1.523 ounces filling. 

B.747 ounces loom weight. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The machinery used to make the 
counts of yarns for the kind of 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



73 



cloth under description would be 
found in mills of the first and perhaps 
of the second division, as given in a 
previous lesson. As the yarns are 
made from a short staple, low-grade 
cotton, the mixing will probably be 
done by hand; i. e., the bales of cotton 
would be opened at the mixing bin and 
the cotton separated into small parts 
and piled up in the bin until it was 
full. The good waste from cards and 
drawing frames would also- be mixed 
in with the raw stock, and in the 
cheaper grades of drill comber waste 
is sometimes used in small quantities. 
The same length of staple may be 
used for both warp and filling yarns 
and they may be run through the 
same machines up to the fly frames, 
and here 

THE ONLY DIFFERENCE 
is that the roving to make the filling 
yarn is run through one more process 
of fly frames than the warp yarn. The 
mixing is^ taken from the bins and 
thrown into the hopper of the opener 
and this hopper is always kept full. 
Keep the pin beater free from cotton, 
so that an even sheet of cotton may be 



■DBBaaBaBBaaaa 

□■■aBBDBMDBBDa 

■■DBaaaHDHaDBa 
aDaaDaaDaanaaa 
DaaaaaGBaDaaaa 
aaaaaDaaaaaDaa 
aaaaDBaDaaaaan 
aaaDaaaaaDaaDa 
aaaBBDaaaaaDaa 
aDaaDaaDaaaaaa 
DBaGaanaaaaaDa 
aaDBBDaaDBaaaa 
aaaaoaaaaauaaa 

Weave 

□nanDanDannanna 
DBnnannaDDannan 
aDGBDDBDaaaaaca 

Drawing-iD Draft 

DDnaBanDDBaaDDD 
aBaauDBBaaaDBaa 

ReciJ Plan 



6.140 ounces finished. 
5.747 ounces loom. 

.393 ounces = sizing in finishing. 
Abcut 6>i per cent of size. 

passed up to the beater, the speed of 
which should be about 1,050 revolu- 
tions per minute. In modern mills 
this opener is built in connection with 
the breaker picker, and the cotton, 
after passing the beater, is thrown on 
to a moving lattice and is brought to 
the feed rolls of the breaker picker, 
which in turn condenses it and passes 
the beater v/hich should have a speed 
of 1,500 revolutions per minute. See 
that the draught of this picker and 
also the finisher picker is so directed 
that the cotton, after passing the 
beater, will be blown upon the top of 
the pair of cages, as this will 



HELP TO MAKE AK EVEN LAP 

at the front end. The weight of the 
lap at the front end of the breaker 
should be about 40 pounds or about 16 
ounces to the yard. The laps are 
then put up at the finisher ipicker and 
doubled four into one. The speed of 
this beater should be 1,450 revolutions 
per minute and the weight of the 
finished lap about 39 pounds or 14 
ounces to the yard. The cotton re- 
ceives about 42 beats to the inch at 
this machine. The draft of this ma- 
chine is very small and very rarely ex- 
ceeds 3. All heavy and quickly mov- 
ing parts should be oiled frequently 
and keep the room clean. The laps 
are then put up at the card. The 
draft of thiS' machine should not ex- 
ceed 100 for this class of goods. 

THE SETTINGS 

should be wide, because it is the ob- 
ject to get off as many pounds as pos- 
sible for this class of goods. Keep the 
wire sharp by frequent grindings. 
The speed of the licker-in should be 
about 300 revolutions per minute. The 
speed of the top flats should be one 
co'mplete revolution in 40 minutes and 
the speed of the doffer from 1314 to 
14 revolutions per minute. The di- 
ameter of the doffer should be as 
large as poasible, say 26 or 27 inches. 
The production should be about 800 
pounds for a week of 60 hours. 

THE SLIVER 

should weigh about 65 grains to the 
yard. The sliver is run through three 
processes of drawings, the weight at 
the finisher drawing being 70 grains. 
The doublings at the different pro- 
cesses of drawing should be 6 into 1 
and the drafts should not exceed 6. 
The speed of the front roller should 
be 400 revolutions per minute. 
The slubber is the next process, and 
here the sliver should be made into a 
50 hank roving. The warp yarn is 
then put through one more process of 
fly frame and made into 1.25 to 1.50 
hank roving and from here passed to 
the spinning room. The filling yarn is 
put through one more process and is 
made into 2.50 hank roving and then 
passed on to the spinning room. 

THE SPINNING FRAME 

then draws the roving into the re- 
quired hank by having the correct 
draft gear put on. Good specifications 
for both the warp and filling frames 
are as follows: for warp frame, for 
spinning 10s yarn, gauge of spindle, 
three inches: diameter of ring, two 



74 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



inches; lengbh of traverse, 7 inclies; 
speed of spindle 8,600 revolutions per 
minute; twist per inch, 15.02; for fill- 
ing frame spinning 18s yarn, gauge of 
sipindle, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 
1% inches; speed of spindle, 7,200 rev- 
olutions per minute; length of trav- 
erse, 6^^ inches; twist per inch, 13.79. 
The warp yarn is then spooled, rwarped 
and run through a islasher. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

Drills are yarn dyed, Wue and 
brown, indigo or sulphur blues, cutch 
or sulphur browns. 

PYROGENE INDIGO BLUE. 

10 per cent color; 20 per cent sul- 
phide sodium; 8 per cent soda ash; 
35 per cent salt; 2 per cent mineral oil, 
1 hour at 200 degrees F. Aftertreated 
with 

iy2 per cent biohrome; lYz per cent 
sulphate copper; 3 per cent acetic 
acid, 9 degrees Tw. Well rinsed and 
soaped. A soap made of 

2 per cent paraffin wax; 2 per cent 
glue ; 2 per cent dextrine is consid- 
ered very suitable. Turn for 15 min- 
utes at 120 degrees F. Squeeze and 
dry. 

BROWN. 

5 per cent immedial cutch O; 1 per 
cent Immedial dark brown A; 3 per 
cent immedial brown B; 8 per cent sul- 
phide sodium; 3 per cent soda ash; 
30 per cent Glauber's salt. Turn at 200 
degrees F. for one hour, rinse and 
aftertreat: 

1% per cent bichrome; lYz per cent 
sulphate copper; 3 per cent acetic 
acid, 9 degrees Tw.; 30 minutes at 200 
degrees F. Rinse, and soap with a 
weak solution at boil. 

A variety of shades are piece dyed 
on drills and used for various pur- 
poses, where a very strong cloth is re- 
quired. 

SLATE. 

3 per cent thion black B; 3 per cent 
siulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda ash; 
20 per cent common salt. Rinse well 
and soap. 

BLACK. 

15 per cent thion black G; 15 per 
cent sulphide so.dium; 3 per cent soda 
ash; 30 per cent common salt. Rinse 
•well and soap. 

BUFF. 

1 per cent thion brown G; % per 
cent thion yellow R; 2 per cent sul- 
phide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 



30 per cent common salt. Rinse well 
and soap. 

OLIVE. 

4 per cent immedial olive B; ^ per 
cent immedial black N G; % per cent 
immedial yellow D; 5 per cent sodium 
sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per 
cent Glauber's salt. Rinse well and 
soap. 

SKY BLUE. 

3 per cent immedial sky blue pow- 
der; 3 per cent sodium sulphate; 3 per 
cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's 
salt. Rinse well and soap. 

GREEN. 

10 per cent katigen green 2 B; 10 
per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt; 
rinse well and soap. 

DARK BOTTLE GREEN. 
10 per cent Immedial dark green B; 
2 per cent immedial yellow D; % per 
cent immedial black N G; 13 per cent 
sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 
30 per cent Glauber's salt. Rinse well 
and soap. 

RED. 

5 per cent diamine fast red; 3 per 
cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glauber's 
salt. Rinse and aftertreat with 1 per 
cent fluoride chrome. 



FLANNELETTE . 



Flannelette is a narrow, light-weiglht 
fabric coimposed of all cotton yarns, 
from l-30s to l-14s in the warp and fill- 
ing, the filling being soft spun to per- 
mit of 'thie raising of a very slight nap 
on the back of the goods. 

The cloth is woven with bleached 
yarn (warp and filling), the color ef- 
fe^ots b'eiing afterwardis printed upon 
the face of the goods by the printing 
maclhlne. 

Flannelette is made, with simple one 
or two ooloreid strip© patterns, either 
black and white, or indigo blue and 
white, and in elaborate all-over floral 
designs in imitation of jacquard pat- 
terns, the ground colors being of a 
dark tone, and the figure of either 
harmonious or contrasting combina- 
tions of color. The finished fabric is 
sold by the retailer at 8 to 10 cents 
per yard, 27 inches wide, and is used 
very extensively in the manufacture 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



75 



of ladies' wrappers, kimonos, etc., for 
house wear, and whioh, when soiled, 
can be thrown into^ the family wash 
and cleaned. 

THE PRINTING OPERATION 

is performed b.y an autoimatic machino, 
which consists of a series of rollers or 
drums, over which the cloth is passed 
to hold it taut, and smooth all Avrin- 
kles so that the goods present an even 
surface to the printing roll. 

Upon this roller the design or pat- 
tern is engraved, and the liquid color 
being fed upon it as it revolves, the 
cloth passes over the surface, and re- 
tains an exact impression of the de- 
sign (in colors) that has been en- 
graved upon the roller. 

Flannelette can be woven in any- 
single box roller loom, such as Drap- 
er, Lowell, Levviston, etc., and the fin- 
ish means taking from the loom and 



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DDaaDDaa 
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Reed Piatt 

DDaa 
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Uamess Chain 

"brushing off, to remove loose threads, 
then running through the napper to 
produce a nap on the back of the 
goods, after which the fahric is print- 
ed. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

27 inches finished. 

4 square inches equals 4.85 grains. 
27x36 equals 972x4.85 equals 5,714.20 
divided by 4 equals 1,428.55 divided by 
437.5 equals 3.034 ounces per yard, 27 
inches wide. 

20 pieces white warp x 2% equals 
50 inches equals .35 grains. 50x7,000 
equals 350,000 divided by .35 equals 1,- 
000,000 divide by 840 equals l-30s oot- 
tom warp. 

16 pieces white filling x 2 equals ?2 
inches equals .3 grains. 32x7,000 
equals 224,000 divided by .3 equals 746,- 
^66 divided by 840 equals l-21s cotton 
filling. 

Reed 1,460 —29 1-3 inrihes— 2 ends 
per dent; 16 ends selvedge, 10 per oent 
take-up; 2,376 ends, l-30s white cotton 



warp (ex. of selvedge); 59 picks, l-24s 
white cotton filling (soft spun); L_ 45s 

twill weave (warp effect on face); fin- 
ish equals very light nap on the back 
of the fabric or filling effect. 

88 ends per inch finished and 61 
picks per inch finished equals 81 ends 
in reed and 59 picks in loom. 

88x27 equals 2,376 plus 16 equals 
2,392 ends plus 10 per oent take-up 
equals 2,658 yards l-30s warp yarn 
equals 1.687 ounces. 64 picks x 27 
equals 1,728 yards l-24s filling equals 
1,371 ouncies. Total 3,058 ounces. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The processes of machinery for mak- 
ing the required count of yarns for 
flannelette may be found in either the 
better class of the first division or in 
the second division of mills, as given 
in a pre<vious lesson. . A medium to 
low grade of cottom of from % to 1% 
inch staple may be used, according to 
the grade or mill in which the flannel- 
ette is made. Generally speak'ing, a 
cotton of ys-iiich staple is used. In 
the first division of mills the mixing 
would be done by hajnd, but in the 
second division the equipment would 
probably include a bale breaker, and 
unless the mixing was pressed for the 
cotton would be run through this ma- 
chine, and as this machine will take 
care of 80,000 pounds of cotton there 
is not much danger of it being over- 
worked. 

THE MIXING 

should be as large as possible and in 
the lower grades of flannelette the 
mixing would include a small percent- 
age of comber waste, as well as the 
gooid sliver waste from the cards, 
drawing frames and comber rooms (if 
equipment contains same). The^ better 
grades of flannelette would not use 
waste. Ro^^ing waste would be used in 
both mixings, but this stock would not 
be miixed until the finisher picker 
process, and here the waste should not 
be mixed in a greater proportion than 
1 to 4. In the modern equipments of 
mills generally only two processes of 
picking, with an opener, are used; but 
as there are a great many mills, which 
use three processes of picking, the 
particulars will be givem for 
THREE PROCESSES OF PICKING. 

For this class of goods the rigid type 
of beater is used on all picking ma- 
chines. Keieip the hopper of the opener 
more than half full to help obtain an 
even lap. The s]-,eed of the beater of 



76 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



the opener should be about 1,000 revo- 
lutions per minute. This machine ia 
geinerally used in connection with tho 
bi-eaker picker, and afteir the cotton 
has passed the beater, it is passed 
under a pair of wooden rollers onto an 
endless lattice which carries it to the 
feed rolls of the breaker picker. The 
speed of the beater of this machine 
should be about 1,500 revolutions per 
minute and the weight of th'e laps at 
the front about 40 pounds or about 16 
ounces to the yard. 

THE DOUBLINGS 

of the intermediate picker should be 
four into one and the speed of this 
beateir should be the same as fh'e fin- 
isher picker, or 1,450 revolutions per 
minute. The sp-eeid of the fan at this 
machine should be about 1,050 revolu- 
tions per miniitie. The speed of the 
driving shafts on this and on the fin- 
isher picker skould be about 375 rev- 
olutions per minute. The weight of 
the lap at the front should be a little 
less than at the breaker, or about 37 
pounds or a 12-ounce lap. The same 
particulars m'ay be used for the finish- 
er picker with the following excep- 
tions: SpeJed of fan, 1,100 revolutions 
per minute and the weight of the lap 
alboiit 39 pounds or about a 14-ounce 
lap. Tiiese particulars will answer for 
boith warp and filling. The lap is put 
up at the card which should have a 
draft of about 100. Set the. doffer to 
a 5-gauge and use as large a doffer as 
possible, either a 26 or 27 inch. The 

PRODUCTION OF A CARD 

fO'i this class of work should be about 
8^00 pounds, with a 65-grain sliver, for 
a week of 60 hours. On this class of 
goods no coimbing is used, but a three- 
process drawing. See that the proper 
weights are attached to- the top rolls. 
Ttie doublings are generally six into 
one, although eight into one are used 
in some mills. Don't draw more than 
you double. The draft sho^ild be about 
5 at each process; speed of front rolls 
400 revolutions per minute. Watch 
your settings of the top rolls at these 
machines. The hank roving made at 
the slubber should be about .55. Only 
one prooess of fly frames is used for 
warp, the hank roving being made 
about 2. Use square root of hank x 1.1 
for twist. For the filling, two-proc- 
cess of fly frame is used, the hank 
roving being 2 at thfe. first interme- 
diate and 3.75 to 4.00 hank at the 2d 
intermediate. Use square root of hank 
X 1.2 for twist. The roving is now car- 
ried to 



THE SPINNING ROOM 
where it is made- into the required 
count of yarn. For 14s warp yarn use 
the following particulars for spinning 
frame: Size of spindle, any first class; 
gauge of spindle, 3 inches; diameter 
of ring, 2% inches; length of traverse, 
7 inches. For this class of goods a soft 
twist is used for the. warp yarn, as 
little as possible being put in, but be 
sure and put in enough so that the 
yarn will not break back in the loom. 
For a filling frame for 30s yarn use 
as follows: Gauge of spindles, 2% 
inches; diameter of ring, li^ inches, 
length of traverse, 6% inches. The 
warp yarn is the^n spooled, warped and 
put through the slasher. 



Dyeing Particulars. 
SKY BLUB. 

14 per cent eboli blue 6 B; 20 per 
cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 

PINK. 

1/^ per cent dioxyrubine G; 20 per 
cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 

YELLOW. 
% per ceait fast cotton yellow C, ex- 
tra; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent 
sal soda. 

SCARLET. 

3 per cent diamine scarlet B; 30 per 
cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. 

WINE. 

4 per cent diamine Bordeaux B; 30 
per cemt Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. 

RED. 

4 per cent diamine fast red F; 30 per 
cent Glauber's ; 3 per cent sal soda. 
CINNAMON BROWN. 

3 per cent diamine brown 3 G; 30 
per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. 

BLACK. 

15 per cent pyrogene black B; 20 
per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent 
soda ash; 40 per cent Glauber's. 

DARK BROWN. 

4 per cent chrysophen ine ; 2 per cent 
benzo fast (black; 214 per cent benzo 
fast red L; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 
per cent sal soda. 

MYRTLE GREEN. 
3 per cent benzo green G G; ^^ per 
cent chrysopLenine; % per cent benzo 
fast black; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 
per cent sal soda. 

SLATE. 
1 per cent benzo fast black; i/^ per 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



77 



cent benzo fast blue B N; % per eemt 
benzo fast red L; 30 per cent Glaub- 
er's; 3 per cent sal soda. 
HELIOTROPE. 

2 per cent tetrazo lilac B; 30 per 
cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. 

NAVY BLUE. 
5 per cent tetrazo indigo blue C; 30 
per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal 
soda. 

ORANGE. 

3 per cent tetrazo chlorine orange 
R; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent 
sal soda. 

LEMON YELLOW. 
11/2 per cent tetrazo lemon yellow; 
30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal 
soda. 



DENIM. 



Denim is a strong, medium-weiglit, 
single-cloth fabric, weighing fro^m 4'i^ 
to 5 ounces per yard and composed of 
single cotton yarn in warp and filling. 

It is usually made with a small, un- 
even-siided twill weave, such as - — 45° 
twill, and in solid color warp ef- 
fects, generally indigo blue or dark 
brown, and white filling. White sel- 
vedge is used in all grades. 

A grade known as covert clotli is 
made of twist yarn in the warp, and 
dark colored, single filling. The twist 
yarns are usuallly blue and white and 
the cloth of a similar texture to that 
of the regular denim. 

In effect denim is a stout, twilled 
fabric, having excellent wearing quali- 
ties, and is made to sell at 10c. to 15c. 
per yard, retail. It is used principally 
in the manufacture of overalls, to be 
worn by workmen who operate ma- 
chinery, or by those who perform hard, 
rough labor of any description. 

Denim cam be woven in any singxe 
box roller loom, such as Mason, Lowell, 
Lewiston, Colvin, etc., the warp being 
prepared on the slasher, in the same 
manner as a sheeting warp. It is unen 
drawn in on the harness or heddles, in 
accordance with weave desired. 

The finish of this fabric is a rather 
heavy sizing, after which the goods are 
dried and pressed. 

Denim is sometimes dyed in the 
piece, in light shades of tan, blue, etc., 
and the goods made up into summer 
outing skirts for ladies' wear. 

1 square in. equals 2.6 grains. 27 x 



36 equals 972 x 2.6 equals 2,527.2 divided 
by 1 equals 2,527.2 divided by 437.5 
equals 5.77 ounces per yard, 27 inches 
wide finisihed. 

20 pieces blue warp x 1 inch equals 
20 inches equals .5 grains. 20 x 7,000 
equals 140,000 divided by .5 equals 2,- 
800,000 divided by 36 equals 7,777.77 
divided by 840 equals l-9s warp. 



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15 pieces white filling x 3 inches 
equals 45 inches equals .65 grains. 4b 
X 7,000 equals 315,000 divided by .b£> 
equals 484,615 divided by 36 equals 13,- 
461.43 divided by 840 equals l-16s fill- 
ing. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

— ^ twill 45° 

68 ends per inch finished and 42 
picks per inch finished equals 63 ends 
in reed and 40 picks in loom. 

Reed 750 — 29 inches — 3 ends per dent. 
10 per cent take-up — 32 ends selvedge. 
40 picks, l-16s white cotton filling. 

1,836 ends blue yarn and 32 ends 
white yarn selvedge equals l-9s cotton 
warp. 

1,836 + 32 equals 1,868 + 10 per cent take 
= 2,076 yards 1-9 warp = 4.39 ozs. 

42 picks X 27 Inches = 1,134 yards 1-16 
filling = 1.35 ozs. 

5.74 ozs. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Denim is constructed of yarns tliat 
are made in either the first or second 
divisions of mills as given in a pre- 
vious lesson. In the second divison 
of mills the raw stock would be run 
through a bale breaker, as this class 
of mills would undoubtedly contain 
this machine in their equipment. In 
the first division of mills the mixing 
would be done by hand. When bale 
breakers are used, it is of great ad- 
vantage to have a blower in conniection 
with them. This blower is generally 
placed at the delivery end of the ma- 
chine and blows the cotton, after it 
has passed through the bale breaker, 
throug'h trunking onto an endless lat- 
tice which deposits it in the mixing 
bins. A blower is of advantage be- 
cause it opens the cotton and tlie cur- 
rent of air helps to dry it and the cot- 
ton does not have to dry out in th« 



78 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



mixing bins as is the case when a blow- 
er is not used. Mixing is 

A VERY IMPORTANT PART 

of the card room and too little atten- 
tion is generally given to it. it will 
be understood that if the cotton is not 
properly mixed, this defect cannot be 
remedied at any subsequenit machine. 
Coitton of the same length of staple 
should always be used, cotton of the 
siame nature, and where waste is used 
the peroentage should be as small as 
it is possible to make it. The same 
mixing may be used for making of both 
the warp and filling yarns, a medium 
to low grade being used of a staple 
length of about one inch (ranging from 
% to 1% inches, according to the 
quality of denim being made). A small 
percentage of coniber waste miay be 
used, but is not advisable. The good 
sliver waste from the cards and draw- 
ing frames is mixed with the Taw stock 
and the roving waste is mixed in the 
manner described in a previous article. 
The cotton would be put through two 
processes of picking and an opener. 
Keep the hopper of the opener well 
filled with cotton so that the lifting 
apron will always be carrying up a 
full load of coitton to the pin roller. 
The 

SPEED OF THE BEATER 

of the opener should be about 1,050 
revolutions per minute, the speed ot 
the fan being about 350 revolutions per 
minute. If porcupine beater is used, 
the speed should be about 1,150 revolu- 
tions per minute. The speed of a two- 
bladed beater of a rigid type of the 
breaker picker should be about 1,500 
revolutions per minute, the speed of 
the fan being about 100 revolutions 
less. The total weight of the lap at 
the head end should be about 40 
pounds, or 20 ounces to the yard. The 
doublings at the finisher picker are 
4 into 1 aiid the speed of the beater 
(2 bladed rigid type), 1,450 revolutions 
per minute, which will beat the cotton 
Sheet presented to it about 42 times 
per inch in length. The weiglit of tne 
lap in the front should be as heavy as 
possible and at the same time not over- 
work the card. A gO'Od weight would 
be 39 pounds or a 14-ounce lap (for a 
38 inch lap). The 

DRAFT OF THE CARD 

should not exceed 100 and should oe 
not less than 90. The sliver should 
weigh. 65 grains per yard and the pro- 
duction about 850 pounds for a week 
of 60 hours. Keep your card wire 
siharp and be sure that your top 'flats 
are ground even, because close and ac- 



curate settings cannot be obtained 
when the wire on the flats is not of a 
uniform length. Large doffers should 
also be used. The sliver would then be 
put through two processes of drawing 
frames, the speed of the front roll (1% 
inches diameter) being 400 revolutions 
per minute on each set. The drait 
should not be more than the doublings 
and the sliver should weigh about iO 
grains per yard. 

THE PRODUCTION 

being about 260 pounds per delivery per 
day of 10 hours. When metallic rolls 
are used, the prodi^ctdon would be con- 
siderably greater or about 350 under 
the conditions noted above. Metallic 
rolls are coming more and more into 
use, especially on the lower counts of 
yarns, and also on a heavy sHiver; al- 
though they can be used on all grades 
and lengths of staple, they are not gen- 
erally used, but not ithrough any fault 
of the rolls, as they are suitable for 
producing fine work. The slubber 
draws the silver into .55 hank and the 
one-process fly frames used makes the 
roving into a 1.75 hank roving. Some- 
tim'es two different hanks are made at 
the fly frame, one for the warp and 
one for the filling yarns; where this is 
the case, the warp yam is made from 
one hank roving and the filling from 
2.00 hank. The particulars for the 
warp spinning frame for No. 9s are as 
follows: Front roll, one in. diameter; 
gauge of frame, 3 in.; diameter of 
ring, 2% in.; length of traverse, 7 in.; 
for a filling frame making I6s use 
gauge of frame, 2% in.; diameter of 
ring, 1% in.; length of traverse, 6l^ In. 
The warp yarn is then, spooled, warped 
and put through the slasher. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

BLUE. 

6 per oenit katigen indigo B; 6 per 
cent katigen indigo 5 G; 12 per cent sul- 
phide sodium; 4 per cent soda asih; 30 
per cent salt; after treat with 1^^ per 
cent bichrome, 2 per cent copper sul- 
phate and 4 per cent acetic acid. Rinse 
well and soap. 

BLACK. 

15 per cent immedial black N N; 15 
per cent sodium sulphide; 30 per cent 
Glauber's salt; 4 per cent soda ash. 
Rinse well and soap. 

BROWN. 

6 per cent thion brown G; 6 per cent 
thion brown B; 2 per cent ithion yel- 
low R; 14 per cent sulphide siodium; 4 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



79 



per cent soda asih.; 30 per cent salt; 
after treat 3 per cent biclirome, 3 per 
oemt sulphate coppeir; 5 per cent acetic 
acid. Rinse well and soap. 

SLATE. 

5 per cent pyrogene black B; 5 per 
cent so'diium sulphide^ 2 per cent soda 
a;sli; 20 per cent salt. Rinse well and 
soap. 

DARK GREEN. 

10 per cent imimedial green G; % per 
oemt immedial black N B; 10 per cent 
sulphide sodium; 4 per cent soda ash; 
30 per cent Glauber's salt. Rinse well 
and soap. 

RED. 

8 per cent diamine fast red F; 30 per 
cent Glauber's salt; 3 per cent soda 
crystals. Rinse and after treat 2 per 
cent fluoride chrome at 160 degrees P. 



BODRRETTE, 



Bourrette is a light weight, single 
cloth fabric, weighing from 4^/^ to 6 
ounces, composed of two-ply cotton 
warp, and either wooJ. merino or a 
combination of ooitton and. wool shod- 
dy filling. Both the warp and the fill- 
ing have an occasional end or pick of 
fancy bourrette or nub yarn added for 
effect; hence the name. 

In appearance bourrette cloth is a 
semi-rough-faced woolen fabric, hav- 
ing small fancy colored lumps on the 
yarn, scattered throughout the g'oods 
in accordance with the effect desired. 
The cloth when finished is used princi- 
pally in the manufacture of ladies' 
fall suitings. 

THE WEAVE 

Is usually a — 5 plain weave.or a mixed 
twill effect, such as can be produced 
from the regular '—^ 45 degrees twill, 
viz.: diamond or entwining twill 
weaves. These weaves, in connection 
with certain warp and filling patterns, 
such as ] black, 1 fancy twist or 2 
black, 2 fancy twist, create very elab- 
orate styles, as this color arrangement 
serves to hide the rigid outline of the 
design, and thus has a tendency to 
complicate the general appearance of 
the weave used in the fabric. 

The fancy effects in twist that can 
be adapted to this line are made by 



twisting the following coIots together, 
viz.: 

Black and white. 

Black and lig-ht blue. 

Black and light green. 

Black and old gold. 

Black and red. 

Black and lighit brown. 

These twist yarns serve the purpose 
of brightening up the general app'ear- 
ance of the goods. 

Bourrette cloth can be woven in any 
power loom, excepting those styles 



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Harness Chain 



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wherein a single pick of the fancy 
yarn is introduced in the filling, in 
which case the Knowles 4x4 pick and 
pick, dobby loom is very serviceable. 

TO FINISH THIS FABRIC, 

the goods are taken from the loom and 
measured, after w'hich they are brushed 
then scoured in a solution of soap and 
cold water, then tentered and dried 
and pressed. 

The bourrette yam is made by twist- 
ing two cotton threads and a worsted 
thread together, the worsted being al- 
lowed to deliver more quickly than the 
cotton threads, art regular intervals. 

The excess which is delivereid is 
twisted around the cotton threads in 
the one place, thereby forming a lump 
on the twisted yarn, as the worsted 
yarn is run at a varied speed, and is 
not regularly distributed around the 
cotton threads. 

CONSTRUCTION. 
4 square inches equals 7.61 grains. 
33x36 equals 1,188 times 7.61 equals 



80 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



904,06S divided by 4 equals 2,260.17 
divided by 437.5 equals 5.11 ounces, 33 
inches wide from loom. 

23 pieces black warp times 2 equals 
4G inches equals 1.41 grains. 

46x7,000 equals 322,000 divided by 
1.41 equals 228,368 divided by 36 equals 
6,343.5 divided by 840 equals 2-14s. 

22 pieces twist warp times 2i/^ equals 
55 inches equals 2 grains. 

55x7,000 equals 385,000 divided by 2 
equals 178,804 divided by 36 equals 
5,216.S divided by 840 equals 2-12s. 

30 pieces black merino filling times 
2 equals 60 inches equals 3 grains. 

60x7.000 equals 420.000 divided by 3 
equals 140,000 divided by 36 eauals 
3,8S8 divided by 300 equals l-12s cut. 

10 per cemt up. 

Reed, 400 minus 1 end per dent minus 
36 inches wide, including selvedge of 
16 ends 2-14s black, 24 picks, 1-12 cut 
merino equals 75 per cent wiool and 25 
per cent cotton. 

Warp pattern: 1 black 'equals 2-14s 
cotton; 1 twist equals 2-12s cotton. 

24 pick.s timeis 30 equals 864 yards 
1-12 merino equals 3.S4 ounces. 

192 ends black plus 16 equals 208 
plus 10 per cent take-up equals 231 
yards 2-14s equals 6. 28 ounces; 192 
euds twist plus 10 per cent take-up 
equals 213 yards 2-12s equal .676 
ounces, total, 5.144 ounces per yard 
loom. 

Finish — Scour, tenteT and steam 
press, to loom width. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

In the class of goods under descrip- 
tion it will be noticed that there Is a 
very small percentage of cotton con- 
tained in Its make up. If the cotton 
yarn that this class of goods contains 
was made in a cotton mill, the follow- 
ing particulars would be a good foun- 
dation on which to base the speeds, 
weight and processes throug'h which 
the raw stock would have to pass be- 
fore being turned out into 2-ply 12s or 
2-14s yarn, as the case may be. This 
class of yarn may be made in the first 
divisioiu of mills, and the cotton would 
be hand mixed and put in the bins. 
The mixing should be allowed to dry 
out as much as possible .before using, 
and a better plan would be to have 
two \8jrge mixing bins so that when 
one was in use the other one might be 
filled and the cotton dried. This is 
not always done, because most picker 
rooms are pressed fo/r floor space. 

THE RAW STOCK 
should be put through two processes of 
picking and an opener. The good 



waste from pickers, cards and draw- 
ing frames should be put into the mix- 
ing bin before running it throug'h the 
opener. Always keep the hoipper of the 
opener mo^re than half full and gauge 
your stripping roller so that quite a 
heavy weiig^ht of cotton is passed to 
the action of the beater. The speed 
of the beater for the opener should be 
about 1,000 revolutions per minute, 
the speed of the fan about 350 revolu- 
tions per minute. This machine is 
used in connection with the brealier 
picker and the speed of the beater (2 
bladed rigid type) should be about 
1,500 revolutions per minute. The 
weight of the lap at the front should 
be about 40 pounds or a 20 ounce lap 
to the yard. The laps from the break- 
er picker are put up at the finisher 
picker and doubled 4 into 1. The 
speed of the beater at this machine 
should be about 1,450 revolutions per 
minute, which gives about 42 blows 
per inch of cotton fed. The 

WEIGHT OF THE DAP 

shoTild be about 40 pounds or a 14'':'^ 
ounce lap. Care should be taken to see 
that Ihe variation in the total weight 
of the laps delivered at the front of 
the finisher picker is not more than 
three-quarters of a pound from stand- 
ard weight for raw stock to mako 
goode under desor'ipition,and the amount 
of variation for the finer olapses of 
goods should not exceed one-half a 
pound from standard. When laps are 
found to vary more than above noted, 
they sihould be placed at the back of 
the finisher picker and run over. If 
a great degree of variation is found, 
i. e., if the standard is 40 lbs., and laps 
are delivered which weigh S9%, 41, 
39, 40%, and so on, it shows that the 
picker needs adjustment, and on all 
makes of machines there are devices 
to regulate these small variations. The 
laps are put up at the card and the 
draft of this machine should not ex- 
ceed 100. 

THE WIRE FILLET 
should be coarser, so as to stand the 
pressure of the weight and amount of 
cotton to be passed through. This 
Wire should be kept sharp by fre- 
quent grindings with the grinding rol- 
lers. The weight of the sliver should 
be about 65 grains to the yard and the 
production of a card for 60 hours on 
this class of goo'ds should be not less 
than 850 pounds. The cotton is put 
through two processes of drawing. The 
speed of the front roller in each case 
should be 400 revoHutions per minute. 
On this grade of cotton it would be of 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



81 



great advantage if metallic roils were 
used. The weigli't of the sliver at the 
front of the finisher drawing frame 
should be about 70 gTains tO' the yard. 
The sliver at the drawing frames 
should be weighed about three times a 
day to see that it is the proper weiight. 
The slubbea- roving sihould weigb 
about .51) hanlv. Only one process of 
fly framies is used and the hank at this 
should be abO'Ut 1.50. The roving is 
then carried to 

THE SPINNING ROOM, 

when it is spun to the required count 
yarn. The particulars to spin 12s on a 
warp frame are as follows: gauge of 
frame three (inches; diamelter of ring, 
'Zy^ inches; length of traverse, 7 
inches; twist per inch, 16.45; speeld of 
spindle, 9,000 revolutions per minute. 
The same particulars may be used for 
making 14s yarn with the following 
exceptions, that somewhat different 
particulars are required for the spin- 
ning frame. The warp yarn is theii. 
spooleid and taj^en to the twister when 
it is made into 2-plj' or 2-14s as the 
case may be, after which it is sized 
aJt the' slasiher. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

BLACK. 

10 per cent immedial brilliant black 
B, 10 per cent sulphide sodium, 3 per 
cent soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's. 

For the threads of colored yarn 
which are mixed with the black and 
white, fast sulphur colors are dyed. 

For vmion yarn a one-dip aniline 
union black is generally dyed. 

LIGHT BLUE. 

10 per cent pyrogene indigo, 20 per 
cent sulphide sodium, 10 per cent sioda 
ash, 35 per cent salt, 3 pints mineral 
oil. 

LIGHT GREEN. 

8 per cent pyrogene green G, 16 per 
cent sulphide sodium, 6 per cent soda 
asih, 30 per cent salt. 

OLD GOLD. 

4 p'er cent pyrol bronze, 2 per cent 
pyrol yellow, 6 per cent sulphide sodi- 
um, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent 
Glauber's. 

RED. 

5 per cent benzo fast red, 3 per cent 
sal soda, 30 per cent Glauber's. 



cent sulphide sodium, 3 per cent soda 
ash, 30 per cent Glauber's. 

OLIVE. 

4 per cent immedial oli\'e 3G, 1 per 
cent immedial cutch 0, 3 per cent soda 
ash, 30 per cent Glauber's, 5 per cent 
sulphide sodium. 



FANCY SHIRTING. 

Fancy shirting is a light-weight, 
single cloth wash fabric, weighing 
from two to three ounces per yard, 
and composed of regular, single, cot- 
ton yarns, l-26s to l-40s in warp and 
filling. 

It is made in simple stripe patterns 
either printed on the woven, bleached 



BGBGBGBG 
GBGBGBGB 
BGBGBGBG 
GBGBGBGB 
BBGGBBGG 
GGBBGGBB 
BGVGBGBG 
GBGBGBGB 
BGBGBGBG 
GGBBGGBB 
BBGGBBGG 
GBGBGBGB 
BGBGBGBG 
GBGBGBGB 
BDBGBGBG 


GBGBGBGB 
■GaGBGBD 
GBGBGBGB 
BGBGBGBG 
GBGBGBGB 
BGBGBGBG 
1 BGBGBGB 
BGBGBGBG 


Weave 


Weave 


GGGGGBCGOBGaGGG 
GGGGBGnGGGBGGGG 
GBaBGGnBGGGBGBa 
BaBaGGBrDBGaGBOB 
Draft 


GCGBGaca 

GGBGG BG 
DBGGGBGG 
BGD-BGDG 
Drawing- in- draft 


GGBBGGBBBGGBBGG 

BBGGBBGGGBBGGBB 

Reed 


GGBBGGBB 

BBGGBBGG 

Reed Plan 


Idea for fancy weave 





LIGHT BROWN. 
10 per cent thion brown G, 10 



per 



fabric, or of fast colors, dyed upon 
the warp. Combinations of each are 
sometimes formed to create attrac- 
tive styleis. 

THE WEAVE 
used is either the plain i-_ or this 
combined with a fancy rib or basket 
weave. 

Fancy shirting is made to retail at 8 
to 121/^ cents per yard, and is used 
in men's outing and working shirts, 
ladies' and children's waists, blouses 
and summer suits. It is from the con- 
sumer's standpoint a practically inex- 
pensive material, w'hich, when the gar- 
ment becomes soiled, can become a 
part of the family wash and be readily 
renovated. 

Those grades in which the plain 
weave alone is used are best adapted 
to the plain single box roller room. 
The fancy styles,in which a more elab- 
orate weave effect is desired, require 
a loom having a dobby or witch top 
attached. The Knowles 1x1 loom, hav- 



82 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



ing a Stafford dobby top, is very pop- 
ular for this sityle of cloth. 

THE FAST WARP COLORS, 

generally used in connection with the 
bleached or white yarns to create a 
range of patterns for this fabric, are: 
Dark blue, dark green, black, red, 
lavender, pink, ecru, tan, light green, 
light blue and violet. 

FINISHING. • 

To finish this fabric the goods are 
taken from the loom and run through 
the washer, after which they are very 
lightly sized, then dried by the pro'cess 
of tentering (this also prevents undue 
Sihrinkage in width). After drying 
run through the calender to press out 
wrinkles.also to bring up a clear, even 
face. Then the goods are ready to 
lap and fold in readiness for the 
shipper. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

4 squaire inches equals 4.18 grains. 

27x36 equals 972x4.18 equals 4,062. S5 
divided by 4 equals 1,015.74 divided by 
437.5 equals 2.319 ounces per yard, 27 
inches wide. 

12 pieces blue warp times 1% equals 
18 inches equals .16 grains. 

18x7,000 equals 126,000 divided by .11? 
equals 787,500 divided by 36 eqiials 21,- 
878 divided by 840 equals l-2os blue 
warp yarn (cotton). 

12 pieces white warp times V/2 
equals 18 inches equals .16 grains. 

18x7,000 equals 126,000 divided by .16 
equals 787,500 divided by 36 equals 27,- 
878 divided by 840 equals l-26s white 
warp yarn (cotton). 

19 pieces white filling times 2 equals 
38 inches equals .25 grains. 

19x7,000 equals 266,000 divided by .23 
equals 1,064,000 divided by 36 equals 
29,833 divided by 804 equals l-36s 
white filling yam (cotton). 

27 inches finished. 

Reed, 1,150 minus 29 inches minus 2 
ends per dent; 54 picks minus l-3Gs 
white cotton filling; l-26s cotton warp; 
10 per cent take-up; 1,858 ends in warp 
plus 32 white selvedge. 

WARP PATTEiRN. 



7 times. 



3 white. 
*1 light blue 
3 White. 

1 lig-ht blue. 
3 white. 

2 white in 1 heddle. 
8 light b'lue. 

2 white in 1 heddle. 
47 ends per pattern, 39 repeats of pattern 
plus 25 ends. Start at *. 

16 blue ends per pattern tim-es 39 



repeats equals 624 plus 7 equals 63.1 
blue ends. 

31 white ends per pattern times 3^ 
repeats equals 1,209 plus 18 plus 32 
ends selvedge equals 1,250 white ends. 

631 blue ends l-26s plus 10 per cent 
equals 701 yards equals .513 ounces; 
1.250 white ends l-26s plus 10 per cent 
equals 1,388 yards equals 1.001 ounces; 
54 picks times 29 l-36s filling equals 1,- 
5r'6 yards equals .828 ounces; total, 2.- 
342 ounces. 

Finish, wash, size, eailender. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The fabric known as fancy shirting 
is made up of yarns, the counts of 
which vary from 20s to 60s, according 
to the mills making them, and also 
according to the grade being mado. 
For the particulars that will be de- 
scribed below we will consider that the 
shirtings are made up of l-26swarp and 
l-40s filling. It is not customary for 
both , yarns to be made out of the same 
length of staple or grade of cotton, al- 
thouigli in some instances this may be 
done. For the 40s yarn a good grade 
of raw stock of about 11^4 to 1% inches 
stock should be used and for the 20s 
yarn a cotton of about 1 1-16 to 1 3-16 
inch staple may be used with advan- 
tage. The raw stock in both cases 
should be put through the bale break- 
er and deposited in their different 
bins, being allowed to stand as long 
as possible before using. This is for 
the purpose of drying out the cotton 
as it is easier to work when in this 
condition. An opener and two proc- 
esses of picking are g'enerally used, 
although it is the custom in many 
mills to use three processes. When the 
latter is the case.the particulars given 
for the finisher picker miay be used, ex- 
cept that the speed of the fan is not 
so great, also that the laps are of a lit- 
tle lighter weight. The hbpper of the 
opener should be kept well filled so 
that an even amount of cotton will be 
always fed to the feed roll of the 
breaker picker. The speed of the beat- 
er (2 bladed rigid type) should be about 
1,000 revolutions per minute; the fan, 
about 350 revolutions per minute. The 
speed of the beater of the breaker 
should be about 1,500 revolutions per 
minute and for the fi.nis'her picker 1,- 
450 revolutions per minute. This gives 
tUe cotton passing through about 42 
beats per inch. The weight of lap at 
the breaker picker is 40 pounds, or 16 
ounces to the yard. At the finisher 
(and intermediate picker if used) the 
doublings are four into one. The rov- 
ing cut waste is mixed at the back of 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



83 



tlie finisher picker in the usual man- 
ner. The weight of the laps at >tlhfe de- 
livery end of the finisher picker is 35 
pounds for the longer stapled cotton 
and 39 pounds for the shorter.or a 12i/£. 
ounce lap for the filling yarn and a 
liVz ounce lap for the warp yarn. The 
cards are set about the same in both 
cases, except where they are required 
to be set according to the length of 
staple. 

The draft of the card sihould not 
exceed 100 for the warp yam and 
should not be less than 100 for the fill- 
ing yarn. As large a doffer as possi- 
ble should be used with both stocks, 
and the weight of the sliver should be 
about 65 grains. The production would 
be 750 pounds per week of 60 hours for 
the filling cotton and 850 pounds for 
the warp yarn. Always keep the wire 
sharp and never under any circum- 
stances allow it to become dull. Grind 
cylinder and doffer wire at least once 
a month for half a day and grind top 
flats twice a month with "dead roll- 
er." Strip cards three times a day, 
both cylinder and doffer. Some a\'"er- 
seers strip cylinders twice and doffers 
three or four times. This, they claim, 
saves time as the doffer maybe stripped 
while running and the sliver is not 
as uneven as when both doffer and 
cylinder are stripped at the same time. 
In the mills making fine yarns it is 
the general custom to strip three times 
a day. Three processes of drawing are 
used for both warp and filling. The 
only difference made in these machines 
is that the rolls are spread differently 
for the different lengths of staple. The 
weight of the sliver should be about 70 
grains in both cases. 

The slubber makes this sliver into 
50 hank roving, the standard twist 
being ohtaJined by multiplying the 
square of the hank roving by the con- 
stant 1. On the finer classes and long 
stapled cotton the fronx top rolls of 
the slubber are varnished, but this 
class of goods does not require this 
to be done. The roving for the warp 
yarns is put thro'Ugh two processes of 
fly frames, the hank at the first inter- 
mediate being 1.50 and at the second 
intermediate 3. The filling roving is 
put through two prooesses of fiy 
frames, the hank roving at the first 
intermediate being 2, and at the sec- 
ond intermediate 5. The twist stand- 
ard is obtained by multiplying the 
square root of the hank by 1.1 for both 
cottons. Take special care of your top 
rolls to see that they are in peirfect 
condition and not channeled, cut, un- 
even, oil soaked, dry at the bearings. 



loose or unevenly weighted. Look out 
for the settings of all fly frame rolls. 
The roving is carried to the spinning 
room, where it is drawn into the re- 
quired count. For 26s count warp yara 
a frame with the folloiw'ing particulars 
may be used: Gauge of frame 2?.t 
Inches, diameter of ring 1% inches, 
length of traverse 6% Inches, twist per 
inch 24 plus, speed of spindle 9,700 rev- 
olutions per minute. For a filling 
making 40s, the particulars ha^ e been 
given in a previous lesson. The warp 
yarn is then spooled, warped and run 
through a slasher. 



Dyeing Particulars. 
DARK BLUE. 

5 per cent immedial blue C, 5 per 
cent immeidial blue C R, 1 per cent im- 
medial black N N, 10 per cent sodium 
sulphide, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per 
cent soda ash. 

DARK GREEN. 
15 per dent thiogene green B, 15 per 
cent sodium sulphide, 3 per cent soda 
ash, 30 per cent Glauber's. 

BLACK. 
15 per cent melanogen black G, 15 
per cent sodium sulphide, 3 per cent 
soda asih, 30 per dent Glauber's. 
RED. 

6 per cent primuline, diazotized and 
developed with Beta naphthol. 

LAVENDER. 
% per cent diainlne blue, 3 R pat., 
after treated with % per cent sulphate 
of copper at 160 degrees F. 
PINK. 
^2 per cent diamine rose B D, 30 per 
cent Glauber's, ?> per cent sal soda. 
ECRU. 
2 per C'ent katigen yellow brown G G, 
2 per cent sodium suiphide, 20 per cent 
Glauber's, 2 per cent soda ash. 
TAN. 
5 per cent thion brown G, 5 per cent 
sodium sulphide, 2 per cent soda ash, 
20 per cent Glauber's. 

LIGHT GREEN 
on a tanjiin and tartar emetic mor- 
dant. Dye % per cent thioflavine T, ^ 
per cent niew methylene blue G G. 
LIGHT BLUE. 
2 per cent im.medial sky blue, 2 pen 
cent sodium sulphide, 2 per ceat soda 
ash, 20 per cent Glauber's. 
VIOLET. 
1 per cent diamine blue 3 R pat., af- 
ter treated with % per cent sulphate 
of copper at 160 degrees F. 



COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



TAPE. 



Tape is a very narrow fabric, com- 
lioaed of either cotton or linen yarns 
in warp and lilling, and usually made 
with a point or broken twill \\'eave, 
the break in the weave occurring in 
the centre cf the tape, and the twill 
lines ramning in a right and left hand 
direction. 

It is made of all bleached yarns. It 
is made of regular yarns about l-26s 
to 1-303 and l-40s cotton and is used 
as a trimming, in the manufacture of 
clothing, also used as a binding in 
innumerable cases, such as paper 
boxes, otc, and is sold by the roll, each 
roll containing a cePtain number of 
yards, 

A fair grade of tape weighs about 20 
yards per pound. 

This fabric is woven in a broad loom 
having a light dobby head motion at- 
tached, similar to that which is used 
on a hair cloth loom. 



the aforesaid rod in >nica a position 
that the rod in moving causes the sai.1 
ittiachment to move thi .shuttle from 
one box to the other in the same di- 
'.'oclion as the rod is taking. 

Tape requires as a finish, washing 
and drying on the cylinder,after which 
it is wound into rolls and is ready to 
pack and ship. 

CONSTRUCTION. 
Reed, 1,650 minus % inches width 
In reed, 59 ends, 46 picks, :i_ point 
twill, SO ends minus 29 ends left. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The counts of yarn used to make 
tape vary from 20s to 40s, according 
to the grade of tape required. In this 
article we will consider the warp yarn 
to be 1-36S and the filling l-40s. 
Theeo counts of yarn would be made 
in the second division of mills as 
priven in a previous lesson. For this 
fabric the yarn would be made out of 



aaaBaDaanaBHDaBanaaaoDBBnaaaDnBDDaBDDBBDDBaDDHDDBaaDHaDH 
DBBaDBaDDaBDaaaacBBauBBDDBBDDaflaGDBBDoaBDoaBDaaaaDaBDDBaaaa 
BBDaBBaaaBDaBBDaBaaDaBDaBBGaaBOBaaaBaaaaBaDaaaDBaaaaaaaBBna 
aDDBBDDaBaDBaGaaBnaaaDaaaDaBaaDaBaaaaBauaBDDaBDDflBDaaBaaaan 

aDBBaDBBaDBBaDBBGDBBaDBBaDBBaaBnaBBDDBBaDBBaDBBDDBBnaBBaDBB 
nBBGGBBGGBBDGBBaGBBGDrBGGBBDDBBBGGBBGGBBGGBBGGBBDGBBGGBBGGB 
BBGGBBGGaaGGBBGGBBGGBBGGBBGGBBGBBGDBBGGBBGGBBGGBBGGBBGGBBGG 
BGGBBGGBBGGaBGGBBGGBBGGaBGaBBaGGBBGGaBGGaBGGBaGGaBGGBBGGBBG 

Design. 

nnGBaaDBGDa«aaGBanaBaGn«aanBaaaaGBaaG«GGaBGgaBag-;Bgaq«gpq«g 
GGBGGGBaGGBaGGBaGGBaaGBDGGBanGBGrGBGGGBGG BGgGBgggBgggBQqqB 

GBDaQBaGGBGG-lBanGBGGGB-'a^BGGGBGBGGGBaaGBaGGBDGGBGaGBGGgBgag 
BQQGBaaGBGGaBGGGBGGGBGGGBGGGBaGaBGGGBGaGBaGGBDGGBGCaBGGGB^G 

Drawing-in draft. 

rjaBBaaBBaaBBGGBBaaBBGnBBGGBBaGaBBGGBBGDBBGGBBGDBBaaBBaaBBga 
BBGGBBGGBBGGBBDGBBDGBBGGBBGGBBBGGBBGaBBGGBBGGBBGGBBGGBBGGBs 

Reed plan. 



DDBB 
GBBG 
BBGG 
BGGB 
DGBB 
GBBG 
BBGG 
BGGB 

Weave 



In weaving this fabric, the loom is 
arranged to produce several rolls at 
the same operation, it being very nar- 
row. There are perhaps 20 rolls all 
weaving at once, as the warp yarn for 
each roll is beamed upon a small spool, 
thereby acting independently of every 
Other roll on the same loom. The 
warps are all drawn through the same 
harness or heddles, which are worked 
from the dobby motion. 

The peiouliar and imporiant part of 
a tape loom is the filling arrangement 
or shuttle motion. 

Being a one shuttle fabric, ©aoh warp 
has its separate shuttle, all the shut- 
tles being operated at the same time, 
and by one motion. The shuttle, in 
traveling from one box to its mate, de- 
scribes a half moon movement, and 
this is accomplished by a sliding rod 
beneath the race board, and so set that 
at eacih pick of the loom the rod moves 
from left to right and on the next 
pick right to left, and for each piece of 
tape being woven there must neces- 
sarily be a shuttle, and for each shut- 
tle there is an attachment placed on 



a medium grade cotton of from 1 to 
11/4 inches in length. The bales of 
raw stock would be brought to the mix- 
ing room and stapled and those bales 
of the same length of sitaple w-ould be 
opened and run through a bale break- 
er (if the mill contained one, or 
through a willow, or it may be mixed 
by band) and passed by suitable means 
to 

THE MIXING BIN. 

rt should be allowed to stand here as 
long as possible, so that the cotton 
may be opened up to the air, which 
dries It, and makes it easier to work 
than when it is not allowed to stand 
in the bins. At this poinit the good 
waste from the pickers, cards and 
drawing frames should also be mixed 
in with the raw stock. The cotton is 
then put through an opener and either 
two or three processes of picking, gen- 
erally two. If three processes of pick- 
ing are used, the intermediate process 
presents almost the same particulara 
as the finisher picker. In this la- 
stance, we will consider that only 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



85 



TWO PROCESSES OF PICKING 

are used. The hopper should be kept 
as nearly full as possible, so that an 
even lap may be made. The cotton is 
feid to the feed rolls of the breaker 
pickeir and after passing ooimes under 
the action of the beater which, if it is 
a rigid two-bladed type, should make 
abouit 1,450 revolutiO'ns per minute, the 
speed of the fan bedng about 1,050 revo- 
lutiaiiiS per minute. The weight of the 
lap at the front should be about 40 
pounds or a 12-ounce lap. The doub- 
lings at the finisher picker are 4 into 
1. The speed of the fan should be 
abo'ut 1,450 revolutions per minute, 
and the fan 1,100 revolutions per 
minute. This gives the cotton sheet 
about 42 beats per inch fed. Watch 
your drafts. The weight of the lap at 
the front should be aboiit 39 pounds 
or a 14% ounce lap. Whten roving- 
waste is mixed with the raw stock, it 
should first be put through 

A SPECIAL PROCESS 

to take out the twist, and through a 
breaker picker to make laps, and thesg 
laps are put up behind the finisher 
picker. These laps are mixed with 
the raw sitock in a proportion of one 
lap roving waste to three laps of raw 
stock. The laps are put up at the 
card, the draft of wihich should not 
be less than 100. In speaking of 
cards v/e refer to the so-called English 
card and not the American card. The 
wire fillet of this card should be about 
No. 34 wire on cylinder and No. a5 
wire on dofPer and flats. This is equiv- 
alent to 110s and 120s, English count, 
and gives 79,200 points per square inch 
for cylinder and 86,400 points per 
square inch for dofter and top flats. 
Grind the wire so as to keep it siharp 
and strip three times a day. 

THE SLIVER 

at the front of the card should weigh 
about 65 grains per yard and a pro- 
duotion of 800 pounds Should be turned 
off for a week of 60 hours. 

Use as large a doffer as possible, 
either a 26 or 27 inch one. The sliver 
is put through three processes of 
drawing frames, doubling siix into 
one, the speed of the front roll being 
400 revolutions per minute, and the 
weight of sliver at the finisher drawing 
70 grains to the yard. Always keep a 
stock of freshly varnished rolls an 
hand, so that if those in the frames 
become worn or damaged in any Way 
they may be replaced at once. All 
the rolls should be varnished and 
changed at least once every two weeks. 



Drawing frames should be cleaned at 
least once a month. The 
SETTINGS OF THE DRAWING 

FR.A.ME ROLLS 
should be looked after frequently to 
see that they have not slipped. The 
sliver is then passed to the slubber 
which draws and twists it into .50 
hank roving. Waitch your leather cov- 
ered rolls to see that they are perfe<5t. 
The roving is then put through three 
processes of fly frames, the hank rov- 
ing at the first intermediate being 1.50 
and at the second 3.50 hank and at the 
jack, 9. to 9.50 for both counts of yarn, 
the doublings being two into one in 
every cascL Use the standard multipli- 
er for twist previously given. The 
roving is th'en taken to the spinning 
room and made into the required 
count. The particulars for a warp 
yarn of 36s count are as follows: Gauge 
of frame, 2% inches: diameter of ring, 
1% inches; length of traverse, 6V^ 
inches; speed of spindle, 10,200 revolu- 
tions per minute. 



MERCERIZED VESTING. 



Mercerized vesting is either a light 
or heavy -weight cotton wash fabric 
weighing froim 5 to 8 ounces per yard, 
finished, and is made of one, two or 
three warps and one or two fillings. 
When made of one warp and filling, a 
light weight can be produced in case 
the warp and filling are both mercer- 
ized j'arns. 

Tlie warp for the face of the cloth 
ranges from 2-20s to 2-60s mercerized 
cotton, and the filling from 1-lOs to 
1-16 s cotton. 

The styles range from granite and 
basket weave effe'Ots in solid wliiite, to 
the more eliaborate figured patterns, 
such as are created by forming spots 
on the face of the clotih, from warp ef- 
fect diamond, cross and curved twill 
weaves, so arranged as to scatter the 
design in regular formation, in imita- 
tion of jacquard designs. 

ADDING WEIGHT. 

The extra back warp is for the pur- 
pose of adding weight to tihie fabric, 
also permiitting greater scope in face 
■p eave effects, the idea being to so ar- 
range t!he face weave as to tlhorouigTily 
cover the coarse filling, the back warp 
binding the filling into the cloth, un- 
der the figure floats of the face weave. 

In making a vesiting having a back 
warp, always use a two-ply yarn for 
this warp, as a single yarn will bead 



86 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



in the weaving, wMch means a loss of 
time e'Very few hours . in removing 
same, and "the varp will not shed prop- 
erly when the yarn is beaded, which 



on the cloth. The beads may then be 
eiither cut off, or drawn throiugh the 
reed. If the latter method is used, the 
betads form a line of small lumps upon 



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Harness Chain. 



causeis the reed to cuit %'e yarn. The 
quickest way to remove the beads from 
the yarn in the shed is to loosen the 
top of the reed cap, and lay the reed up- 



the face of the cloth, from one selvedge 
to the other. While this in itself is 
not a serious imperfection, it means 
that the ctoth must be cut at this point 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



87 



to remove the liiinps, which to a cer- 
tain extent destroys the utility of the 
piece in manufacturing the garments. 

EITHER A DOBBY OR JACQUARD. 

This fabric can be woven on either 
the dobby or jacquard loom. Most of 
the popular imported jacquard effects 
oan be imitated successfully on the 
dobby loom, having edther single or 
double box filling motion. It is best 
adapted to the Knoiwleis Gem Harness 
loom, or the Fairmount, 4x1, bos 
loom, having the IngTaham head mo- 
tion attached. 

To finish this fabric, the oloth goes 
froim the looim to the measuring ma- 
chine, after which it is scoured, dur- 
ing which operatioin the goods are run 
through a solution of soiap and cold 
water to remove all stains such as mill 
dirt and grease spots. After washing 
it is calendered or pressed, and each 
piece is folded and doubled up in heavy 
paper and tied with a cheap tape. It 
is then ready to pack and ship. 

A style having great vogue in the 
spring of 1904 was a mixed effect, pro- 
duced by using an all white mercerized 
warp, and black mercerized filling, the 
ground weave being 1 up, 1 down and 
the' figure, smaJll, double-headed tri- 
angles. 

Reed, 700 minus 30 inches in reed 4 
«nds per dent in reed; 2-20s w'hite mer- 
cerized warp, 2-20s black mercerized 
filling; 48 picks. Weight about IV2 
ounces. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

62 ends face finished, 31 ends back 
finished, equals 93. 

1 square inch equals 3 grains; 60 
picks finished; 29x36 equals 1,044x3 
©qiuals 3,132 divided toy 1 equals 3,132 
divided by 437.5 equals 7.16 ounces per 
yard. 

^ face ends, back ends. 
30 inches in reed including 'S!8lveidge;; 
29 inches finished. Scour and calender. 

16 piieces mercerized face yarn times 
3 inches equals 48x7,000 equals 336,000 
divided by .95 grains equals 353,684 
divided by 36 equals 9,824.5 divided by 
SiO equals 11.69 or 2-20s mercerized 
yam. 

8 pieces back yarn times 2 equals 16 
x7,000 equals 112,000 divided by .18 
equals 62,444 divided by 36 equals 17,- 
345.5 divided by 840 equals 20.64 or 
2-40s back warp yarn. 

17 pieces filling yarn times 2 equals 
34x7,000 equals 238,000 divided by .7 
•equals 340,000 divided by 36 equals 9,- 
444 divided by 840 equals 11.24 or l-12s 
filling yarn. 

3 pieces fancy color (spot) yarn 



ti ^-es 3 equals 9x7,000 equals 63,000 
divilpd by .1 equals 630,000 divided by 
36 equals 17,500 divided by 840 equals 






Reed Plan. Dra wing-in Draft. 

20.8 or 2-40S extra warp (for figuring) 
yarn. 

30 inches in reed, 30 dents per inch 
in reed, 900 minus 10 splits equals 890 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



splits, 40 ends 2-40s cotton selvedge, 7G 
ends in repeat of pattern equals 2o 
repeats plus 32 ends. 

1,780 ends 2-20s mercerized face ends, 
890 ends 2-40s cotton back ends, 40 
ends 2-40S cotton selvedge ends, 91 
ends 2-40-s cotton colored ends, equals 
900 splits or 30 incheiS in reed. 

3 1-3 per cent oomtractlou in widtti 
in weaving, 5 • per Cent take-up, 6 2-3 
per cent shrinkage in length, in finish- 
ing. 

1,780 ends plus 5 per cent take-up 
equals 1,873.7 yards, 2.20s mercerized 
equals 3.568 ounces, 890 ends plus 5 per 
cent take-up equals 936.8 yards 2-40s 
cotton equals .892 ounces, 94 ends 
equals 94 yards 2-40s cotton 
equals .009 ofunees, 40 ends plus 
5 per cent take-up equals 421 
yajrds 2-40'S cotton equals .94 
ounces:, 56 enids 1-1 2.s fillinig times 30 
inches equals 1,680 yards l-12s cotton 
equals 2.666 ounces; total, 7.175 ounces 
finished. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The counts of yarn required to 
mianiufaicture tihe fabric umder descrip- 
tion woiudd he made in the third or 
possibly in the se'cond diivision of 
mills', ajs; given in a previous lession. 
It will be umderstood that a great 
miany grades of fancy vestings are 
made anid that the range of the 
counts of the yarns is also varied. 
For this article we- will consider that 
the warp yam oounit i'& 2-60'S and thiat 
the filling ya.m is l&s count. The 
grade of cotton used for the finer 
oofunit ishould be good^ and the' leagth 
of the staple abo'ut 1% inches, al- 
though cottion from 1% to 1% inches 
may ibe usiedi. For the coarser yarn a 
cotton with the staple of 1 inch may 
be used. The tMi-o different cottons 
wiO'Uld be 

TREATED ALIKE 

up to a certain point and unless other- 
wise note'd what is siaid may 'be ap- 
plied to both cottons. The' cotton 
raw stock sihould be firsit brought to 
the 'bale bre'aker and there stapled 
and grade'd by the overseer and all 
bale's not up to the prope'r standard 
laid aisiide. S-everal bales s'hould be 
opened and placed 'around the bale 
breaker and fed to this machine alter- 
nately; that is, first a section fro'm onie 
bale and then a section from another, 
until all the cotto'n is fed., and not 
one bale fed until it is all gone. By 
the first method a more even mixing 
is oibtained. Two proces'Sies oif picking 
amid an opiemer are generally used, and 



after allowi'nig the coJLon to .stand in 
the ibins as lO'Ug as possi'ble, wlhere 
the gO'Od sliver was'te from tihe cards, 
sliver lap and ribbon lap miaohinee, 
combs, drawing frames and islubber is. 

IMIXED WITH THE RAW STOCK, 

the cotton is fed to the hopper of the 
op'ener. This machine is really the 
first miachine ■ that evens the cotton 
so tlhat a certain weight of oott'on will 
be deli'vere'd for a certain length. 
In order to aCiCOimplisih this, 'the hop- 
per should be keipt as nearly full as 
possible so that the liftin'g apron will 
always be loaded. The spee'd of the 
beia)ter of this machine is about 1,050- 
revoluti'onis per minute, havimg a fan 
speed of 350 re'volutions per minute. 
Th.e ootlton is delivered from this mar 
chine to the feed rolls of the breaker 
picker. The speed 'Of a rigid two- 
bladed type of beater should be about 
1,500 revoil'utionis per minute, tihe fan 
S'peedi being 1,400 revolutions' pel 
minnite. The 

WEIGHT OF THE LAP 

delivere'd at the front should be about 
40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap for the- 
finer counts and 20 ounces for the 
coarser counts. The laps are then put 
up 'at the finisher picker and doubled 
four into one. It is at this point that 
th'e cut roving waste 'is- mixed in, this- 
waste having gone thro'ugh a special 
process to take out the tlwist. Mix 
one lap of cut waste to thrc'e of raw 
S'tock laps. The S'peed of the ib eater 
for this: class 'Of goiods sh'ould mot ex- 
cee'd 1,450 re'VO'lutiO'US P'er minute with 
a fan speed of about 1,100 revo'lutions 
per minute. This class of goods should 
not receive more than 42 beats per 
inch, and for 'the longer staple cotton 
the beats pe'r inch should be droppe'd 
to 32 to 36. If the cotton receives to'o 
many beats it is apt to put neps in and 
if not beaten eno'ug'h, tihe dirt will not 
be taken out. The 

STANDARD WEIGHT 
of the finer yarn Lap sihould be about 
35 pounds, or about 12 ounces per yard. 
The co'arser- yarn lap should weigh 39' 
pounds, or about 14 ounces per yard. 
The variation from the standard 
weight O'f laps should niot ^be more than 
one-half po'und either way and laps 
which vary more th'an thi'S ishould be 
run over. The laps are put up at tihe 
card and the draft for 'the finer count 
sihouild niot be less than 100 'and the 
coars'er one noit O'ver 100. Cl'O'se Sieit- 
tings shiould be used for the 60is yarn 
and siom'e overs'eerS' S'peed up the top' 
flats S'O 'that la greatea- amiounti of wast'e 
will be taken out. The sam'e wire- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



89 



may be used for both counts, i. e., 34s 
(American numlbeir) fdr cyMmder amid 
35 or 36s for top flats anid doffer. Use 
as large a doffea* las posisiible. In the 
longer sitaples S'ome o'ver&eeiris sloiw 
down the 

SPEED OF THE LICKBR-IN. 

They say that the speed of this part 
is too fast for long staples and it tends 
to put neps into the cotton. The 
weight of the sliver for the 60,s yarn 
sh'onld be iaboiut 50 grains, and for the 
16s about 65 graiinis per yard. The 
production for the finer yam is^ 500 
poiunids per week of 60 hours, and for 
the coars'er yam 65 grains per yard. 
Strip cards three times a day, aJl- 
tlhough some overseers strip the dof- 
fer fonr times. The isliver for the 
finer yarn is eomibeid and the coarser 
yarn goes direcit to the drawing frame. 
We will first follow the 

COURSE OF THE COTTON 

for the 60b yarn. It is first put 
through the sliver lap maohine, the 
doublings being 14 into 1, the weight 
of tihe lap being 300 grains per yard. 
Six of these laps are put up at the 
rib'bon lap machine, th^e weigthit of 
lap at front being 260 grains per yard. 
The laps are then put up at the coimber, 
the douib lings being generaiMiy siix toibo 
one, althousfli eight intO' one is some- 
times used. The speed of tihe comher 
should be about 90 nips per minute, 
draft 29. percentage of waste taken 
out 18. and the weight of the sliver 
aboiut 45 grains per yard. This sliver 
is then put thr0'Ug*li two proicesses of 
drawing, the doublings being 6 into 
1. The weight of the sliver at the 
finisher drawing frames is 70 grains 
per yard. See that your drawing 
frames are well oiled, the top rolls be- 
ing oiled twice a day, but also see 
that no oil gets on the leather. See 
that all weights are properly adjusted 
and tne trumpet holes the right size, 
also tnat the stop motions are all ad- 
justed properly. The sliver is then 
passed to the slubber, where it is 
drawn into .50 hank roving. It then 
passes through 

THREE PROCESSES OF FLY 
FRAME, 

the hank roving at the first inter- 
mediate being 1.50, and the second 
4.00 hank, and at the jack frame 13 
hank. The sliver for 16s is put 
through three processes of drawing, 
the weight of sliver at the finisher 
drawing being 70 grains per yard, the 
hank roving at the slubber .50. This 
roving is only put through two 



processes of fly frames, the hank rov- 
ing being made at the first about 1.50, 
at the second 4.00 hank. Tbe doub- 
lings in all cases are 2 into 1. Tne 
roving is passed to the 

RING SPINNING ROOM, 

when it is made into 60s count. 
The following particulars would be 
used for a frame spinning this counr: 
Gauge of spindles, 2% inches; 
diameter of ring, 1 5-16 inches; length 
of traverse, 5 inches; revolutions per 
minute of spindles, 10,000; twist per 
inch, 34.68. For filling, either mule or 
ring frames may be used. If ring 
frames are used, use the follow par- 
ticulars: Gauge of spindle, 2% inches; 
diameter of ring, 1^4 indies; length 
of traverse, 6i/^ inches. The warp yarn 
is then twisted into 2-ply 60s at the 
twister, then spooled and then put 
into the warper, where it is warped on 
beams, and from here is passed to the 
slasher. 



Dyeing Particulars for Mercerized 
Vesting. 

Following are the dyeing particulars 
for mercerized vesting: 
Dyed mercerized yarn for spots. 

RED. 

Turkey red, or primuline red, primu- 
line red dyeing. 

6 per cent primuline red, 30 per cent 
Glauber's; diazotized 1% pounds ni- 
trate soda, 5 pounds sulphuric acid de- 
veloped,two pounds Beta naphthol,well 
rinsed and soaped twice and rinsed in 
hot water. 

SKY BLUE. 

5 per cent immedial sky blue, 5 per 
cent sodium sulphide, 3 per cent soda 
ash, 30 per cent Glauber's, rinse well, 
and give a soap bath, rinse well and 

dry. 

NAVY BLUE. 

8 per cent immedial dark blue B, 8 
per cent sulphide soda, 3 per cent soda 
ash, 30 per cent Glauber's, rinse well, 
soap, and rinse in hot water, and dry. 

BROWN. 

10 per cent thion brown G, 10 per 
cent sulphide sodium, 3 per cent soda 
ash, 30 per cent Glauber's, rinse and 
soap as above Ijlue. 

DARK GREEN. 

10 per cent katigen dark green 2B, 2 
per cent katigen blue Black B, 2 per 
cent katig-en yellow GG, 14 per cent 
sodium sulphide, 30 per cent Glau- 



90 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



ber's, 2 per cent soda ash, rinse and 
soap as above. 

OLIVE. 

8 per cent pyrogene olive G, 8 per 
cent sodium sulphide, 3 per oenit Boda^ 
ash, 30 per cent Glauber's, rinse and 
soap as above. 

MAROON. 

10 per cent immedial Bordeaux G, 10 
per cent ©odium sulphide, 28 per cent 
Glauber's, 3 per cent soda ash, rinse 
and soap as above. 

BLACK. 

15 per cent immedial black NN, 15 
per cent sodium sulphide, 30 per cent 
Glauber's, 3 per cent soda ash, rinse 
and soap as above. 



JEAN. 



•Jean is a narrow, hard-faced cotton 
fabnic, weighing from 4 to 4% ounces 
per yard, and is usually made of a 
hard-twisited warp yarn, about l-20s 
cottom, and either a wool or a wool 



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Drawing-in Draft 



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BiBaaBBaaBBDD 

Reed Plan 



shoddy filling. The fabric is made 
with a, small, unevea-siided tv/ill 
weave, warp effect face, viz.: — j' 45° 
twill, the cloith being of a slate black 
color. 

Jean is used principally in the man- 
nfaoture of ready-to-wear trousers, re- 
tailing at 85 cents to $1 per pair, for 
workmen who perform hard, rough 
and dir'ty work, and who do not wear 
overalls. For this purpose it is the 
most serviceable fabric on the market, 
the garment when worn beiing popu- 
larly known as Kentucky .lean, which 
has this distinct advantage, that upon 
its becoming soiled, a good washing 
will readily cleanse and remove all 
dirty marks, and apparently toughen 
the cloth, although causing it to 
shrink somewhat. 

"KENTUCKY JEANS" 

are woirn by laborers, railroaders, 
moulders, machinists, loom fixers, 
general male mill help, etc., and with 



a small amount of care will wear well 
for two or three years. 

Jean is m^ade with one warp and one 
filling, and can be woven in any single 
box, roller loom, good results being 
obtained from the Fairmount or 
Bridesburg. 

The warp yarn is generally of a 
cheap grade of cotton, and receives 
about two extra turns of twist per 
inch, in excess of the required amount 
of twist in the regular yarn of a sim- 
ilar count. It is this fact which caus- 
es jean as a fabric to have such a hard 
feel. 

The filling is usually a mixture, con- 
taining about 40 per cent cotton and 
60 per cent wool shoddy, the yarn be- 
ing spun on the woolen principle. 

The wool shoddy is made by Picker- 
ing and carding dark colored woolen 
rags, after which the cotton and shod- 
dy are made into a mixing of relative 
proportions and the lot run througih 
the mixing picker. The stock is then 
carded and spun, the yarn receiviUij 
suflicient filling twist, the result being 
a dark colored, lofty thread, a suitable 
filling for this fabric jean. 

The warp is dyed a rather grayish 
black, with cheap dry color, and the 
warp and filling colors combined in 
,the weaving produce a fabric of a de- 
cidedly slate black appearance. 

Jean receives a dry finish, being 
brushed, sheared and pressed, after 
which it is rolled or lapped, then 
packed into oases, for shipment. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed 800 — SO^/^ inches plus 2 ends per 
dent. 10 per cent take-up in weaving, 
36 picks 1-20S cut wool shoddy, 1-20S 
cotton warp. 

Finish equals 27 inches. 

44.4x301/2 equals 1,354 ends plus 10 
per cent equals 1,480 yards 1-2 Os cotton 
warp equals 1.41 ounces. Warp, 36 
picks times 30 1^ eqxials 1,098 yards, 
1-20's cut wool shoddy equals 2.92 
ounces filling. 

1.41 ounces warp, 2.92 ounces filling, 
equals 4.33 ounces. 

4.33 ounces weight, 27 inches wide. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarn used for this class of goods 
is constinicted by two entirely different 
systems. The filling is generally com- 
posed of a mixture of wool or wool 
shoddy and cotton. The filling yarn is 
therefore made in a woolen mill. It is 
understood that entirely different ma- 
chines are used, and the method of 
mixing is entirely different from that 
used in a cotton mill, although the 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



91 



names of the maeliinies in many in- 
■stances are alike. The warp yarn is 
made of all cotton stock and is there- 
fore spun into yarn in a cotton mill, 
and belowwillbefoundthecarding and 
spinning particulars for making this 
count of yarn of jean fabric. Of 
course, these may and are deviated 
from in many miills, but not to any 
greiat extent. 

THE RAW STOCK 

generally used is of a low grade and 
about one inch in staple. This class 
of yarn is spun in mills of the first di- 
vision as given in a previous lesson 
and the mixing would be done by hand. 
The bales of cotton would be sampled 
and all those of the same length would 
be put intoi the mlxin© bin. For this 
class of goods a small percentage of 
comber waste is sometimes mixed with 
the raw stock and some mills use the 
card waste. The percentage is gener- 
ally small, however. The good waste 
from the pickers, cards and drawing 
frames is always used and mixed 
at this point. The raw stock is run 
through an opener and two processes 
of picking. 

The hopper should always be kept 
full. The speed of the beater should 
be 1,050 revolutions per minute, and 
the fan 350 revolutions per minute. The 
speed of the breaker picker beater is 
about 1,500 revolutions per minute, the 
fan speed being 1,400 revolutions per 
minute. 

THE WEIGHT OF LAP 

at the front of this machine is about 
40 pounds or 16 ounces to the yard. 
The doubling at the finisher picker is 
four into one and the sipeed of the 
Taeater (two-bladed rigid type) 1,450 
revolutions per minute, which gives 
the cotton passing through it about 42 
l)6ats per inch. The speed of the fan 
is aibout 1,100 revolutions per minute. 
The weight of the total lap is about 39 
pounds, or 14% ounces to the yard. 
Cleian out from under the pickers fre- 
quently so that the fly will not collect 
-and be drawn back into the good 
clean cotton passing through. 

The draft of this picker should be 
about 2.75. The laps are- then put up 
-at 

THE CARD. 

This machine should not have a 
draft of more than 100. The doffer 
should be as large' as possible and the 
-wire fillet used should be No. 33 wire 
(American count) for cylinder and No. 
34 for doffer and flats. The flats 
make one revolution about every 45 



minutes. The cards should be stripped 
three times a day and ground once a 
month. The weight of the sliver 
should be 65 grains to the yard, and 
the production for a week of 60 hours 
Should be between 950 and 1,000 
pounds. This sliver is then run 
through 

TWO PROCESSES OF DRAWING 
FRAMES. 

The settings used at one mill for this 
stock and staple are as follows: Front 
roll to second, 114, second tothird, 1^4. 
and third to back, 1^^ inches. The 
doublings at this machine are six into 
o^nie and the speed of the front roller 
400 revolutions per minute. The draft 
at the finisher machine is about 5.75. 
The weight of the sliver should be 
about 75 grains per yard. The draw- 
ing sliver should be sized at least 
twice a day and four times would be 
much better. 

The sliver is then drawn into .50 
hank roving by the slubber and three 
processes of fly frames, the hank 
roving being as follows: 1.50 at the 
first intermediate, 3.50 at the second, 
and 8.^0 at the jack frame. The usual 
care sihould be given to the roils, etc., 
and 

THE ROVING 

at the jack frame should be sized once 
a day. The roving is then put through 
a warp spinning frame, the particulars 
being as follows: Gauge of frame, 2% 
inches; diameter of rings, two inches, 
length of traverse, seven inches. This 
yarn is hard twisted and receives about 
two complete turns more per inch than 
usually used for cloth yarn; that is, 
the regular twist per inch for this 
count is 21.24 turns per inch, but for 
this cloth is 23.24. The speed of the 
spindle is about 9,400 revolutions per 
minute. This yarn is taken to the 
spoolers and spooled from the spools, 
is warped and put through the slasher. 
A good sizing is made as follows: 
Water, 100 gallons; potato sitarch, 70 
pounds; tallow, four pounds; turpen- 
tine, one pint. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

DARK SLATE. 

2-^'^ pounds thion black G, 2% pounds 
sulphide sodium, one pound soda ash, 
20 pounds salt. 

BLACK. 

15 pounds thion black G, 15 pounds 
sulphide sodium, three pounds soda 
ash, 30 pounds salt. 



92 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



CRETONNE. 



Cretonne is a light-weight single 
cloth, all cotton fabric, weighing from 
2 to 5 ounces per yard, and composed 
of yaj-ns ranging from l-40s to l-20s in 
the warp and l-20s to^ l-7s in the fill- 
ing. 

It is usually wovem with either the 

plain weave — -, ^, twill 45 de- 
gree, or a fancy effect resembling a 
granite weave, such as is used as a 
foundation weave in dress goods. The 
fabric is woven with either an all 
bleached or gray cotton warp and fill- 
ing, the patterns being fancy stripes 
and all over floral effects printed in 
bright colors upo^n one side of the 
goods. 

This gives the printed or face side 
of the fabric somewhat of the appear- 
ance of an elaborately figured jac- 
quard design. Those colors found most 
effective for this purpose are bright 



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Design 



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Drawing-in-Draft 

DDBBDDBBDDBB 

BBDDBBDDBBaa 

Reed Plan 



Harness chain same as design. 

and medium shades of red, blue, green, 
yellow, etc., and a good jet black. 

Cretonne is made in widths from 25 
inches to 36 inches, the narrow grades 
being the lightest in weight. 

The various grades are used for 
couch covers, draperies, lambrequins, 
and comfortables or bed quilts. 

THE WEAVING. 

Being a one-shuttle fabric, plain 
weave or twilled, cretonne can be wov- 
en om the single box roller loom such 
as the Mason, Draper, Lowell, Col- 
vin, Lewiston, or Kilburn and Lincoln. 
The fancy grades in which mixed 
weaves are desired, necessitate the 
use of the Knowles Pairmount, or 
similar looms, with a dobby or head 
motion aJttached. The warp for 
cretonne, being either gray or bleached 
yarn, iS' prepared in a manner similar 
to that of weaving a plain ordinary 
sheeting. 

Those grades in which the plain 

weave or — - twill weave are used 
are drawn in and woven upon four 



harnesses. If, however, a fancy weave 
is desired, the warp must be drawn in 
and woven upon a number of har- 
nesses, in accordance with the number 
of ends In one repeat of weave desired. 
As printing the colored pattern upon 
thiis fabric constitutes the fimish there- 
of, the goods are taken from the loom 
and run through the brushing ma- 
chine, to remove all dust, dirt or 
loose ends. 

THE FIGURED PATTERN 

to be produced upon the cloth has 
been engraved upon ' bronze rollers, 
which have been set .up in the printing 
machine. The colors are fed auto- 
matically to the rollers, which, in re- 
volving, register the colors upon the 
face of the cloth, as it passes between 
them. The cloth is then dried by be- 
ing run through heated rollers or 
drums, and the fabric is then rea:ly 
to be folded into suitable lengths to 
be packed and shipped. 

Four square inches equals 7.95 
grains. 

29x36 equals ]>044x7.95 equals 8,299.- 
SO divided by 4 equals 2,074.95 divided 
by 437.5 equals 4.742 ounces per yard, 
29 inches wide. 

20 pieces white warp yarn equals 
x2y2 inches equals 50 inches equals .55 
grains, 50x7,000 equals 350,000 divided 
by .55 equals 036,363 divided by 36 
equals 17,399 divided by 840 equals 
l-20s cotton warp yarn. 

12 pieces white filling yarn times 4 
inches equals 48 inches equals 1.55 
grains. 
48x7,000 equals 336,000 divided by 1.55 
equals 216,774 divided by 36 equals 
6,021.5 divided by 840 equals l-7s cot- 
ton filling yarn. 

15 cents per yard, 29 inches finished. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed, 900 minus 30 1-3 inches minus 
2 ends per dent, 52 ends per inch fin- 
isihed,40 picks per inch finished, equals 
50 ends in reed, 38 picks in loom, 10 
per cent take-up in weaving. 

52x29 equals 1,508 plus 10 per cent 
equals 1,675 yards l-20s cotton warp 
yarn, 40x29 equals 1,160 yards l-7s cot- 
ton filling yarn, 1,675 yards, l-20s cot- 
ton warp equals 1,595 ounces, 1,160 
yards l-7s cottom filling equals 3.156 
ounces equals 4,751 ounces. 

10 cents per yard, 25% inches quality 

^ — - twill, four square inches equals 

3.9 grains. 

2514x36 equals 909x3.9 equals 3545.1 
divided by 4 equals 886.2 divided by 
437.5 equals 2.025 ounces per yard, 25^4 
inches wide. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



93 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The division of mills making cre- 
tonnes would be the second (or those 
mills equipped with machinery for 
making yarns the counts of which 
vary from 20 to 80s). The counts of 
yarn used for cretonne vary from 
l-20s to l-40s warp and from l-7s to 
l-20s filling, according to the quality 
of cretonne required. In speaking of 
the second division of mills we do not 
mean to say that the count of yarn is 
always Avithin these limits, but that 
when buying machinery, the specifica- 
tions for the different machines are 
made out according to whether the 
machines are to use low, medium or a 
fine grade of raw stock. Of course, it 
often happens that yarns of a lower 
oounjt or of a higher couht are made 
on this machinery, but the great bulk 
of the yarns turned off are within the 
limits. For example, take cretonne: 
All grades of cretonne may be made 
in the same mill, although the count 
of the yarn varies from 7s to 40s,. or in 
some cases even a finer yarn than this 
is used. For this article we will con- 
siider that the filling yarn is l-20s and 
the warp yarn is l-40s. The length of 
steple used would be from 1 1-16 to I14 
inches of a medium grade of cotton. 
The bales of raw stock would first be 
siampled and several bales of practical- 
ly the same length of staple placed 
around the bale breaker and fed to this 
machine in small portions alternately 
fi'om each bale. In this manner it is 
mixed better than if one entire bale 
was fed. 

If a bale breaker is not used the 
method would be just the same except 
that it would be done by hand. The 
lower count would use cotton of a 
length of 1 I-IG inches and the higher 
count l',4 inches. Both cottons would 
be put through an opener and two 
processes of picking. Keep your 
hopper of the opener well filled (over 
half full). The speed of the beater 
for both grades of cotton should be 
about 1,050 revolntions per minute; 
the speed of the fan about 350 revolu- 
tions per minute. See that your pin 
roller is always clean, because if the 
cotton is allowed to accumulate, it 
cannot perform its duty properly. The 
cotton is fed to the feed rolls of the 
breaker beater and passed on to the 
beater, the speed of which should be 
about 1,050 revolutions per minute; 
a rigid two-bladed type. The total 
weight of the lap at the front should 
be about 40 pounds, or 16 ounces to the 
yard for both cottons. The laps are ' 
doubled at the finisher picker four in- 



to one, the cut roving being mixed in 
at this point in the proportion of three 
laps of raw s;tock to one of bobbin 
waste. The speed of the beater should 
be about 1,450 revolutions per minute 
with a fan speed of 1,100 revolutions 
per minute. This gives the cotton 
passing through about 42 beats per 
inch. See that the grid bars under the 
beaters are properly set. The total 
weight of the lap at the frontshould be 
39 pounds for the shorter staple cotton 
and 35 pounds for the longer, or a 14- 
ounce lap for the 1 1-16-inch staple and 
12%-o'unoe lap for the 114-inch staple 
cotton. 

Keep the picker room clean and al- 
ways calculate to have enough laps of 
each kind of cotton ahead so that if 
breakdowns occur the cards will 
not be stopped for want of laps. The 
draft of the finisher picker is about 3. 
The cards should be set as before de- 
scribed in a previous lesson, except 
that the feed plate should be se(t to the 
licker-in, according to the length of 
the staple. Cards should be stripped 
three times a day and ground at least 
once a month. The wire fillet should 
be made of 34 wire for 11 Os English 
count) for cylinder and 35 (or 120s 
English count) for doffer and flats. 
Use as large a doffer as possible, say 
26 inches at least. The draft of the 
card should be about 100 for both 
stocks. The weight of the sliver at 
the front of the card should be about 
65 grains. The production should be 
825 pounds for the shorter staple and 
600 pounds for the longer one for a 
week of 60 hours. The card sliver is 
next put through three processes of 
drawing frames. A few of the more 
particular points to look out for are, 
scour the frames at least once a 
month, keep your leather top rolls in 
perfect oomdition and well oiled and 
barnished. Se© that all knock-off 
motio'us are in working order to pre- 
vent single and double; keep the 
weight of your sliver uniform by siz- 
ing it at least twice a day and three 
times a day for fine yarns, doubling 
six into one at all frames. The weight 
of the sliver at the finisher drawing 
should be about 70 grains per yard. 
The drawing sliver is drawn into .50 
hank roving at the slubber, the stand- 
ard twist being found by multiplying 
the square root of hank by 1. The 
roving for the 20s yarn goes through 
two processes of fiy frames, the hank at 
the first intermediate being 2 and at 
the second 5 hank. The 40b yarn rov- 
ing is put through three processes, the 
hank roving at each process being as 
follows: first, 1.50; second, 3.50 and 



94 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



third, 9 to 9.50 hank, the doublings at 
all frames being two into one. The 
sliver is then passed to the spanning 
roomi. In case the fifling yarn is spun 
on a ring frame the following would 
be g)ood particulars for the frame spin- 
ning 20s: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; 
diiameter of ring, 1% inches; length 
of traverse, 6% inches; speed of spin- 
dle, 7,300 revolutions per minute; twist 
per inch, 14.50; and for a warp frame 
spinning 40s: gauge of frame, 2% 
incihes; diameter of ring, 1% inches; 
length of traverse, 6% inches; twist, 
28.45. The warp yarn is then spooled, 
warped and run through a slasher. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

RED. 

5 per cent benzo fast red, 4 B S, 30 
per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent soda. 

YELLOW. 

2 per cent chrysophemine, 30 per cent 
Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda. 

LIGHT BLUB. 
1 per cent diamine sky blue F F, 30 
per cent Glauber's, 1 per cent sal soda. 

LIGHT GREEN. 

1 per cent diamine fast yellow FF, 1 
per cent diamine sky blue PF, 30 per 
cent Glauber's, 1 per cent sal soda. 

ORANGE. 

2 per cent tetrazo orange, C R, 30 
per cent Glauber's, 1 per cent sal soda. 

MAROON. 

3 per cent tetrazo Corinth G, 30 per 
cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda. 

HELIOTROPE. 
3 per cent heliotrope B B, 30 per cent 
Glauber's, 2 per cent sial soda. On a 
tannin and tartar emetic mordant dye 
the four following shades: 

MALACHITE GREEN. 
2 per cent malachite green; also for 

MEDIUM BLUE. 
2 per cent methylene blue. 

PINK. 
1 per cent rhodamine 5G. 
PURPLE. 

1 per cent methyl violet 3 B. 

BLACK. 
15 per cent thion black G, 15 per cent 
sulphide sodium, 5 per cent soda ash, 
30 per cent salt. 

SLATE. 

2 per cent thion black G, 2 per cent 



sulphide sodium, 2 per cent soda ash, 
30 per cent salt. 

LIGHT BROWN. 

8 per cent thion brown G, 8 per ceiat 
sulphide sodium, 3 per cent soda ash, 
30 per cent salt. 

DARK BROWN. 

12 per cent thion brown G, ^^ per 
cent thion black G, 12 per cent sodium 
sulphide, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per 
cent salt. 

Cretonnes are also printed with very 
large picture designs of very bright 
colors,' of very strong contrast gener- 
ally. Some styles are of a simple 
character with small flowers and twigs 
on a white or cream-colored ground. 

Other styles are of starttling reds 
and other bright colors, on a dark 
brown, maroon or black ground, or on 
any dark colored ground to make a 
contrast. 

The colors are' printed with fast ali- 
zarine or tannin colors, which will be 
fast to sunlight and washing. Bright- 
ness of shade is required in most cases. 



SILESIA. 



Silesia is a light-weight single cloth 
fabric, having a rather high texture, 
and weighing about three ounces per 
yard. It is composed of all cotton 



DBaaaBaHBDH 
■■aaaaiiBLjHMa 
■DaBaBaaaana 
DaaGaaDBaaaa 
BBaaBGaaDBBD 
aaaaaaaaaaaa 
oaBDaBGaBDBa 

BBDBBaBBDBBa 
BGBBDBBaaaDB 
DBBGBBDBBGBB 
BBGBBGBBGBBG 
BGBBGBBGBBGB 



nGBGGBaaBnGB 
GBGaaaaBGOBG 

BaGBaGBUGBGa 
Drawing-in Drift 

GGGBBBnGGBBB 

BBBGGGBBBUaa 

Ee«a Plan 



yarns l-30s to 1-40b in warp and filling 

2 

and is usually made with a — j' 45 
degree right-hand twill weave. It is 
used principally as a lining for la- 
dies' and men's clothing. A 

VERY IMPORTANT FEATURE 
in connection with this fabric is the 
highly glazed or polished face of the 
goods, which is due to the action of 
the heated roller in the calendering 
machine upon the sizing, which the 
goods haive absorbed in the process of 
finishing, just previous to the calen- 
dering operation. 

Silesia is woven of yarn in the gray 
state and is dyed in the piece, in such 
colors as black, dark blue, brown. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



95 



slate, drab, steel, etc. It is woTen on 
any single box roller loom, such as 
the Mason, Loweill, Lewiston, Colvin, 
etc. 

The warp is made upon an Entwistle 
or Draper warping mill, and beamed 
upon the Lowell slashei'. It is then 
ready to be drawn in on cotton har- 
ness, and woven in a manner similar 
to a drill. 

TO FINISH THIS FABRIC. 

The goods are taken from the loom 
and brushed, then run through a solu- 
tion of soap and cold water to remove 
all dirt, after which they are rinsed 
in cold water. 

The goods are now dyed in the piece, 
after which they are sized, then ten- 
tered to keep from shrinking in width, 
also' to dry the cloth. After tentering, 
the goods are run through the calender 
to produce the smooth, glazed finish 
upon the face of the cloth. The fin- 
ished fabric is then ready to prepare 
for packing and shipping. 

Four square inches equals 5.4 grains. 

27x36 equals 972x3.4 equals 5,248.8 
divided by 4 equals 1,312.2 divided by 
437.5 equals three ounces per yard, 27 
inches wide finished. 

24 pieces wary yarn times IV^ inches 
equals 36 inches equals .3 grains; 36x 
7,000 equals 252,000 divided by .3 equals 
840,000 divided by 36 equals 23,333 di- 
vided by 840 equals l-28s warp. 

30 pieces filling yarn times lYs 
inches equals 45 Inches equals .33 
grains; 45x7,000 equals 315,000 divided 
by .33 equals 924,242 divided by 36 
equals 25,673 divided by 840 equals 
1-30S filling. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed, 1,012 minus 28.7 inches in reed 
minus three ends per dent, 90 ends per 
inch finished and 72 picks per inch 
finished, equals 86 ends in reed and 
69 picks in loom. 

10 per cent take-up on warp in 
weaving 6 per cent size on warp in 
weaving. 

1-2SS cotton warp,l-30B cotton filling. 

Color — slate or drab. 

90x27 equals 2,430 plus 10 per cent 
equals 2,700 yards l-28s cotton warp, 
72x27 equals 1,944 yards l-30s cotton 
filling. 

2,700 yards l-28s cottom warp equals 
1.S37 ounces, 1,944 yards l-30s cotton 
filling equals 1.234 ounces, equals 3.071 
ounces. 

Finish equals brush and calender. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns used in making silesia 
vary from 30s to 40s. These counts 



of yarn would be made in a mill of the 
second division as given in a previous 
lesson. Mills making this class of 
goods are now generally equipped 
with a bale breaker. After the cotton 
is stapled and the bales sorted out, 
according to the length of staple and 
grade of coitton, several bales are 
placed around the bale breaker and the 
cotton fed to this machine alternate- 
ly from each bale. By this method 
the 

COTTON IS MORE THOROUGHLY 

MIXED 
than if a whole bale was fed to the 
machine at once. The cotton is then 
dropped on an endless lattice and car- 
ried to its proper bin. This latter is 
generally movable in either direction 
so that it may be placed in position to 
drop the cotton into its proper bin. 
The mixings should be as large as pos- 
sible and cotton of a fair grade having 
a sitaple of 1% to l^.i inches for this 
class of goods. The mixings should be 
aJllowed to- stand as long as possible 
and the good waste from the pickers, 
cards, drawing frames and back of 
slubber should be mixed in at this 
place. The waste from the above ma- 
chines is collected at regular intervals, 
and may be mixed as fast as collected. 
Little system is used in mixing the 
waste into the raw stock, but the pick- 
e'>r room boss should watch to see 
tluat the waste man keeps the different 
lengths of sitiaples:, kinds and grades 
of cotton by themselves. Otherwise 

trouble is bound to occur at the lat- 
ter machines. The raw stock is put 
through an opener, and sometimes 
three but more often 

TWO PROCESSES OF PICKING. 
The hopper of the opener is filled with 
cotton and started up and should be 
kept well filled all the time it is in 
motion. The speed of the beater of 
this miachine for this class of goods 
should be 1,050 revolutions per minute 
with a fan speed of 350 revolutions per 
minute. Keep your pin beater clean 
and see that it is adjusted to the prop- 
er distance from the lifting apron so 
that the correct amount of cotton will 
be fed to the breaker picker. The to- 
tal weight of the laps for both the 
warps and filling yam should be about 
40 pounds or 16 ounces to yard of lap. 
These laps are put up at the finisher 
picker and doubled four into one. The 
speed of the beater is 1,450 revolutions 
per minute, with a fair speed of 1,100 
revolutions per minute. Tliis gives 
the cotton about 42 beats per inch of 
cotton fed. The beats per inch given 



96 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



to cotton do not vary much on all 
classes of cotton, except in the case of 
Sea Island, of a long staple. In the 
latter case the speed of the beater is 
slowed down so that the cotton re- 
ceives from 29 to 34 beats per inch. The 
total weight of the lap at the front 
end of the finisher is 35 pounds or 12^2 
ounces to yard of lap. The 

BOBBIN WASTE COTTON 
is mixed at this point, it first having 
gone through an extra process to take 
out the twist. This waste is made into 
a lap and then put up at the finisher 
picker and mixed In proportions of 
three laps of raw sitock to one lap of 
bobbin waste. The draughts of the 
picker should be looked after to see 
that the currents of air are properly 
directed so as to obtain the best ad- 
vantage in making an even, firm lap 
that will not lick up at the card. Too 
m.uch waste in the mixing will also 
tend to make a lap split or lick up 
at the card. 

THE CARD 
should have a draft of not less than 
100. The settlings should be the same as 
given in a previous lesson and the cyl- 
inder and doffer stripped three times 
a day. The cylinder and doffer should 
be ground once a month and the flats 
about once in every three weeks. The 
weight of the sliver at the front should 
be about fj5 grains per yard. Use 
the same count of wire for cylinder and 
doffer as given in the last article. 

The card sliver is put through three 
proeesises of drawing. In some mills 
the cOtiton is put through a railway 
head. This machine doubles from 
8 to 16 ends and this at the front 
passes through a trumpet, which auto- 
matically evens it. When this process 
is used, one process of drawing frames 
is left out. The weight of the slaver 
at the front of the finisher drawing 
should be about 70 grains per yard. See 
that your leather top rolls are well 
varnished and otherwise in perfect 
condition. The following directions 
will be found excellent for making the 
varnish to use on the rolls: three 
ounces glue (use a gelatin fish glue), 
one ounce of acid (acetic). Let this 
dissolve and then add color and 10 or 
12 drops of oil of origanum. In warm 
weather a little borax may be added. 
The sliver is taken from the drawing 
frame and run through the slubber, 
where it is made into a .50 hank rov- 
ing. The slubber roving is then put 
through 

THREE PROCESSES OF FLY 

FRAMES 

for both warp and filling yarns, the 



hank roving being as follows: First 
intermediate, 1.50; second interme- 
diate, 4 and 7.50 hank at the jack 
frame for the warp yarn and 8. for the 
filling yarn. See that your fiy frame 
rolls are spread to the proper distance 
and look out for the shape of your 
full bobbins to see that the taper of 
the ends is neither too blunt nor too 
sharp. If the former, it is liable to 
run over both on the frame and in 
handling,and if the latter,only a small 
amount of roving can be wound on 
each bobbin. The warp yarn is spun 
in the ring spinning frame, but the 
filling yarn may be either spun on a 
ring frame or a mule, but is generally 
done on the former machine. The par- 
ticulars for a v/arp frame spinning 36s 
yarn has already been given in a pre- 
vious lesson. Those used for a filling 
frame spinning 40s are as follows: 
Oauge of spindles, 2% inches; diame- 
ter of ring, 1 5-16 inches; length of 
traverse, 5^/^ inches; speed of spindle, 
8,800 revolutions per minute; twist per 
inch, 23.72. The warp yarn is then 
spooled, warped and put through a 
slaislier. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

Silesias are dyed on the jig ma- 
chine at the full width of the piece. 

CREAM. 

A few grains of fast cotton yellow C 
Ex, 5 pounds Grlauber's, one-half 
pound sal soda. 

LIGHT ECRU. 

1-16 ounce fast cotton yellow C Ex, 
1-16 ounce, direct orange T G. 

ECRU. 
1-36 ounce fast cotton yellow C Ex, 
1% ounces fast cotton brown G, 5 
pounds Glauber's, i/^ pound sal soda. 

LIGHT SLATE. 
2 ounces fast cotton yellow C Ex, 4 
ounces direct black S. 5 pounds Glaub- 
er's, Yz pound sal soda. 

SLATE. 

1 pound direct black S, 4 ounces fast 
cotton yellow C Ex, 10 pounds Glau- 
ber's, 1 pound sal soda. 

DARK SLATE. 

2 pounds diamine black B H,4 ounces 
diamine fast yellow A, 4 ounces oxy- 
diamine black A, 20 pounds Glauber's, 
2 pounds sal soda. 

LIGHT DRAB. 
4 ounces diamine fast yellow A, 4 
ounces diamine brown B, 4 ounces 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



97 



diamine blaek B H, 10 pounds Glau- 
ber's, 2 pounds sal soda. 

DRAB. 

'/^ pound diamine fast yellow A, % 
pound diamine black B H, 6 ounces 
diamine brown B, 10 pounds Glauber's, 
2 pounds sal soda. 

LIGHT TAN. 

% pound diamine fast yellow A, % 
pound diaminerai brown G, 10 pounds 
Glauber's, two pounds sal soda. 

TAN. 

2 pounds diamine catechine 3 G, 1 
pound diamine fast yellow B, lO 
pounds Glauber's, 2 pounds sal soda. 

OLD GOLD. 

3 pounds diamdne fast yellow B, 2 
pounds diamine catecMne 3 G, ^/^ ounce 
diamine black B H, 10 pounds Glau- 
ber's, 2 pounds sal soda. 

PEARL. 

1-16 ounce diamine brilliant blue G, 
5 pounds Glauber's, 1 pound sal soda, 
aftertreated % per cent copper sul- 
phate. 

SKY BLUE. 

6 ounces diamine sky blue F F, ti 
pounds Glauber's, V2 pound sal soda. 

BLUE. 
2 pounds diamine blue R W,5 pounds 
C'lauber's, % pound sal soda. 

RED. 

6 per cent primuline, 25 per cent 
Glauber's, 3 per oent sal soda. 

Diazoitized IVz per cent nitrate soda 
5 per cent sulphuric aoid. Developed 
two pounds beta naphtol. 

SCARLET. 

4 pounds benzo fast scarlet 4 B S, 30 
pounds Glauber's, 3 pounds sal soda. 

MAROON. 

5 pounds tetrazo' corinth B, 30 
pounds Glauber's, 3 pounds sal soda. 

HELIOTROPE. 
^ pound heliotrope B B, 10 pounds 
(rlauber's, % pound sal soda. 

PINK. 
^2 pound tetrazo pink B U, 20 
pounds Glauber's, y2 pound sial siada. 

YELLOW. 
iy2 pounds chlorine' yellow G G, 20 
pounds Glauber's, 2 ipounds sal soda. 

ORANGE. 

2 pounds benzo fast orange S. 30 
pounds Glauber's, 3 pounds sal soda. 



DARK GREEN. 
3 per cent benzo dark green G G, 2 
per cent chrysophenine, 1 per cent di- 
rect black B. 

GREEN. 
3 per cent brilliant benzo green B, Vs 
per cent chrysophenine, 30 per cent 
Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 
NAVY BLUE. 

5 per oent diazo black B H N, 30 per 
cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 

LIGHT BROWN. 

6 per oent thion brown G, 6 per cent 
sodium sulphide, 30 per cent Glauber's, 
3 per cent soda ash. 

BROWN. 
6 per cent diamdme brown B, 1 per 
ceut diamine yellow B, 1 per cent dia- 
mine caiteohin© G, 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 
DARK BROWN. 
2 per cent benzo fast black, 2^ per 
cent benzo fast red L, 4 per cent 
chrysophenine, 30 per cent Glauber's, 
3 per cent sal soda. 

BLACK. 
15 per cent thion black B, 15 per cent 
sodium sulphide, 3 per cent soda ash, 
30 per cent Glauber's. 



LAWN. 



Lawn is a Idght-weig'ht, single cloth 
wash fabric, weighing from 1% ounces 
to 21/4 ounces per yard and in widths 
from 36 inches to 40 inches finished. 
It is composed of all cotton yams 
(bleached) from l-40s itio abiout 1-lOOs, 
and is always woiven with a plain 
weave — j • 

PLAIN LAWN 
is made of solid wihite or bleached 
yarn in iboth the warp and filling. The 
fancier grades, or those having a color 
effect, are produced by ^printing vines, 
floral striipes, small floiwers^, etc., in 
bright colors, in scattered effects upon 
the face of the 'goods, the wiarp and 
the filling in all oases being bleached 
yarns. The patitems are always pnnt- 
ed:, never woven. 

Lawn is miade in various grades 
ranging in price from 5 cents to 12^ 
and 15 cents' per yard, land it is used 
principally in the mianufacture of la- 
dies' and children's summer dresses, 
sash curtains, etc. Being a rather 
sheer fabric, lawn is best adapte^d to 



98 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



tihos© light runmii.g looms in, wlliiiCih. 
thie action of siieididiing is easiest upon 
tHae dBne yiarns useid in this style of 
goodis. The warp for ithis fabric is 
dresised or beameid upon a regular 
dressing frame. It is tthem drawn in 
on 4 harnesses to permit Oif freedom in 
shedding. 

The plain weave requires but twio 
barnesses', ^but whe:re there are a 
great num^ber of ends in the warp, the 
yam would be very much cirowded if 
ith'e Tvarp was drawn in on two har- 
nesses. Therefore, four or more har- 
nesses are usied. 

Dawn, when findsheid, should 'have a 
very soft, smooth feel. Therefore 
the finishing process includes h-rush- 
inig, very light starching or sizing, 
then calenidering or pressing. 

16 siquare inches equals 6.9 grains. 

40x36 equals 1,440x6.9 equals 9,936 
divided by 16 equals 621 divided by 
437.5 equals 1.419 ounces per yard, 40 
inches wide finished-. 

40 pi'eces white warp yam x 3i^ in- 

□■□■OBIB 

mamamoma 
auamamnm 
mamnmama 
nmamamam 

■DBDBCBD 
DBDBDBDH 
BDBDBnBD 

Weave ' 

DBDBDBDB 
BaBDBOBQ 
Drawing- in Draft 
DDBBDOBB 
BBDDBBOO 
Reed Plan 

cihes equals 140 inches equals .5 
grainsL 

140x7,000 equals 980,000 divided by 
.5 equals 1,960,000 diivided by 36 
equals 54,444 divided iby 840 equals 
l-66s cotton warp. 

46 pieces white filling yam x 2^^ 
inches equals 100 equals .35 grains. 

100x7,000 equals 700,000 divided by 
.35 eiquals 2,000,000 divided by 36 
equals 55,555 divided by 840 equals 
l-66s cotton filling. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

40 inches finished. 

64 ends per inch finiisbed, 62 picks 
per inch finisheid equals 60 ends in 
reed and 58 picks in loom. 

Reed, 1,080; 42% inches in reed. 2 
ends peT dent. 

5 per oenit take-up -on warp in weav- 
ing. 

64@40 equals 2,560 ends pins 5 per 
cent take-up equals 2,694 yards. 

62 picks X 40 inches equals 2,480 
yards. 

2,694 yards, l-66s cotton warp 
equals .748 onnces; 2,480 yards, l-66s 
cotiton filling equals .712 ounces, total, 
1.460 ounces. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The counts of yarns from whioh. 
lawn is made vary according to the 
quality of lawn being made. This 
varies from 40s to lOOiS. The yarns 
are made in the third division of mills, 
as given in a previous lesson or those 
mills which make high connt yaurns. 
In this article we will consider the 
warp yarn to 'be 60S' and the filling 
yarn to be 100s. For 'tlhe&e two 
counts raw stock of two different 
lengths of staple and grade of yaim 
would 'be used. For 100s a Sea Island 
cotton of about 1%-inch staple may be 
used and for ithe warp yarn an Allen 
cotton of about 1^ iniches staple. The 
two cottons would be treated differ- 
ently at every process and so 'we will 
describe the two cottonis at eacih proc- 
ess. The Allen cotton woulid 'be put 
thro'ugh the b-ale ibreaker, dn the man- 
ner ascribed in the article of last 
week, 'and carried ito its 'proiper bin. 
At this point the 

GOOD WASTE IS MIXED IN. 

It is not the general custom to run 
the Sea Island cotton through the bale 
breakeiT, b'Ut to mix it by hand great 
oare should be taken that all the 
bales mixed are of a unifoirm length 
and that the grade of each bale is up 
to standard. Those bales not up to 
standard should be shipped back to 
tihe broker. The good waste is mixed 
in at 'this 'point, but be sure ith'at tihe 
waste boy only puts in Sea Island cot- 
ton for, if 'a shorter staple cotton gets 
in. At will cause trouible at subs'equent 
machines. The Allen cotton is put 
through two ^processes of picking and 
an opener. For this class of cotton 
three p'rocesiS'es of picking would be 
better, for, as it is a very dirty co't- 
ton, the extra picking would help to 
clean it. The speeds of all the pick- 
ing machines previously given may be 
used for ithis cotton. The weight of 
the lap at the breiaker piokeir should 
be ab'out 40 pounds or a 16-'Ounoe lap. 
The doublings are four into one at the 
finisher, the itotal weight being 3.5 
pounds or a 12-ounce lap. If an inter- 
mediate picker is useid, the to'tal 
weight of the lap should be about 37 
poiinids or a 12-ounce lap. The 
SEA ISLAND COTTON 
is only put through 'an opener and one 
process of picking, the reason for 
this being th'at the sitaple is S'O long 
that if two processes are useid the ex- 
tTa beating 'that it receives tends to 
put. neps into the staple. The speeds 
of the opener are slowed down and the 
sipeediS' of the finisher p'arts are as fol- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



99 



lows: T'he speed of a rigid two-blad- 
ed beater stoould ruot exceed 1,000 rev- 
olutions per mimuite'. The total weigM 
•of the lap should be about 30 pounds 
OT abouiti a 9-ounce lap to the yard. 
The Tioviing waste should be mixed in 
at the finisher pickeir proceis:s, as pre- 
viously explaineid. The cards should 
be set close for both cottons, the 
main difference ibeing in the setting of 
the feed roller to the licker-in, which 
should be set according to the lengith 
of staple. The usual points thaiti have 
been given in; previous less'ons should 
be looked out for when running Allen 
cotton, thie weight of the sliver in 
front being 65 grains* to the yard and 
the production being abomt 500 pounds 
for a week of 60 hours, the draft be- 
inig mot less than 100. For Sea Island 

ADDITIONAL CARE 

has to be taken; also certain speeds 
have to be altered. It has been found 
that by slowing the speed of the lick- 
er-in less neps are put into the cotton 
and still the cotton is cleaned. In fact, 
one overseer using this class of cotton 
lagged 'his licker-in pulley so as to O'b- 
tain an extra diameter of 1% inches 
and found the results excellent, the 
sliver showing fewer neps than when 
the us'ual speed of the lickernin was 
used. On this cotton it is the general 
pracitlice to use high drafts and some- 
times la draft of 165 is used, but for 
general purposes a draft of about 130 
is used. The flats are speeded so as 
to make one complete revolution every 
45 minutes, the extra speed being o^b- 
tained by lagging the pulley on the 
cylinder that drives the flats. This, 
of course, takes out more' waste; but 
it makes less work for the combers to 
do. The weight of the sliver at the 
card is about 45 grains^ per yard. 
Strip and grind cards the same as 
stated in previoius articles. 

THE WIRE FILLET, 
used for cards making sliver for high 
class yarns is generally firmer than 
tlhait previously given, and if cards are 
used for high count yarn the size of 
the fillet should be as follows: Cylin- 
der N'O. 34 wire or 110s English count; 
doffer and top flats. No. 36 wire or 
130s English count. The production 
of a card on Sea Islanid cotton varies 
from 325 to 450 pounds per week of 60 
hours. Four hundred pounds is a 
good average. From the cards both 
coiftons are taken to the comber room 
and the doublings at the sliver lap are 
14 into one. The weight of the Allen 
lap at the front is 320 grains per vard 
and the Sea Island weighs 250 grains 



per yard. The cottons are tihen put 
through the ribbon lap machine, where 
the Allen is idouibled 6 into one, but it 
is ithe general ousitom to double th« 
Sea Island only 5 into one, the weiglht 
of lap at the front end being 260 
grains per yard for Allen and 200 
grains for Sea Island. The laps are- 
taken to ithe combers, where' .they are- 
doubled 6 into one. The speeid of the 
comibers should be abouiti 85 to 90 nepis 
per minute for Allen and 75 to 80 for 
Sea Island. The amount of wasite- 
taken out at the com'ber is Important, 
a gooid average for Allen is 18 per cent 
auid for Sea Island 20 to 25 per cent. 
The 

WEIGHT OF THE SLIVER 

for Allen is about 42 and for Sea 
Island about 36 grains per yard. 
After passing through itihe comber the 
sliver is put through two processes of 
drawing, the weight of the sliver at 
the front being 60 grains per yard for 
Sea Island and 70 grains for Allen. 
On all machines when leather top rolls 
are used for Sea Island, stock should 
be kept in the best of shape and oiled 
and varniished frequently. The speed 
of itihe front roll on the finisiher draw- 
ing for Sea Island should be abont 
320 revolutions per iminute or 80 revo- 
lutions per .m.iniute slower than for 
Allen. The slubber draws the sliver 
into .50 hank roving for Allen and .80 
hank for Sea Island. The Sea Island 
is put through three processes of fly 
frames, the hank roving ibeing as fol- 
lows: First iniLiermediate, 2.25; second 
intermediate, 5.00; jack frame, 18 
hank; and for Allen: First interme^ 
diate, 1.50; second intermediate, 4.0O; 
jack frame, 12 hank. The twist per 
inch put into Sea Island cotton is a 
little leiss than the usual amount used 
for other cottons, the sitandard for 
jack frames being square root of hank 
X 1.2. The filling yarn is mule spun and 
the wiarp yarn ring spun, the followiin.g 
particulars being used: Gauge of 
frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 
1% inches; length of traverse, 5 
inches; speed of spindle, 10,000 revo- 
lutions per minute; twist pier inch, 
34.86. The warp yam is then taken to 
tihe spoolers and from here to.the warp- 
ers, where it is run on beams and tak- 
en to the slasher. The following is a 
good size to use: 100 gal. water, 54 
pounds potato starch, 2 pounds York- 
shire gum, lYz pounds sioap. 

Finishing Particulars. 

Lawns have to be very carefully 
handled in the ibleacihing process. 



tc. 



100 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



Tihey aire stajrchied wiith. oai ord'inary 
sbaroh 'm.an.gile witih. froan 8 to 12 
ouaces best white German dextrine 
peir giallon, mixed oold, and iboiiled flar 
one. hour, with a littte ^blnein'g added 
to s'hiade required. 

They are th'&n finisihed on ifche stent- 
er maiohinie, dryed with hat air, care 
being teke'n to keep the pieces per- 
fectly sitraigh)t. Somie ibleadhens Ihandle 
each piece separaiteiy from start of 
process to finisih, ibleaclhinig, starching 
by hiand in a. tub and drying in a 
frame ini .the .stenter stove. By &o do- 
ing the piieces do not gelt drawn and 
the filling is always sillraigiht across 
the piece. 

Lawns are oftea tinted light slhades 
of blue, pink, cream, ecru, pearl, 
greem and other light tints 'wiith direct 
colors aidded to the starch, ttue direct 
colors being used generally. The -b'a- 
sic and acid colors' are aliso' tinted to 
jnake bright oolors. 



TARTAN PLAIDS. 

Tartan plaid is a narrow, light- 
weight, single Cloth fabric, weighing 
from 2 to 214 ounces per yard finisihed, 
and is composed of regular cotton 
yarns from l-20s to l-26s in warp and 

DDaaDDM 

oaaDDHD 

■■DDBBDa 
■DDMaaDB 
DDaaDDIH 

ammaamma 

■■DGBBDa 

■aaiBDDB 

Weave 

nnoBaDOB 

nDBDQDBD 
QBDDDBDD 

BanDBona 

' Drawing-in Draft 

DDBBDDBB 

BBDHIBBDa 

Reed Plan 

filling. It is always woven about 23% 
inches in the reed, to finish about 22 
inches wide. This is done to prevent 
it from coming too close to the ging- 
ham limes. 

Tajrtan plaids are generally woven 
with a — 4.5 degree, right hand 

twill weave, and are always woven in 
plaid patterns in imitation of the im- 
ported worsted fabric of this name. 

Each line of patterns has a stand- 
ard name, which represents a signifi- 
cant style of color arrangement, such 
as Rob Roy, dress Stewart,Royal Stew- 
art, Malcolm, Praser, McGregor, Sin- 
clair, Gordon, Drummoud, Macpher- 
son, etc. 



Those colors most used are red, 
greein, black, white, brown, drab, wine, 
dark green, scarlet, dark blue, etc. 

IN THE ROB ROY STYLE 

the pattern tekee the form of a broad, 
two-colored check, 114x114 inches, 
either black and red, or black and 
white, viz.: 72 black. 72 red in warp 
and filling. The dress Stewart pat- 
tern is composed principally of white 
yarn. The Royal Stewart has a de- 
cided red color effect. The Gordon pat- 
tern a very green color effect, etc. 

Aniline colors are used in dyeing the 
yarns for this fabric, the warp yarns 
being given an extra run, to insure an 
evem shade, which, while not being ex- 
actly a fast color, is strong enough to 
withstand the action of a rather wet 
finish (gingham finish). 

The Fairmount 4x1 box roller loom 
is used for the 2, 3 and 4 shuttle tar- 
tan plaids and the Knowles 4x4 ging- 
ham loom for those styles having 
more than four colors in the filling. 

The warps for this fabric are ordered 
from the spinner in either 720 yards, 
1,080 yards, 1.200 yards or 1,500 yards 
lengths, and have either 1,000 ends, 
1,200 ends, 1,400 ends, or 2,000 ends, in 
them. 

The most popular are 720, or 1,080 
yards and 1.400 ends. 

The warp is dyed in bulk and the 
necessary number of ends of each col- 
or are then split off. When all the 
oolors have been split or separated, 
the splittings, or separated bunches of 
ends of each color, are assembled in 
the beaming framie, and the yarn is ar- 
ranged as per pattern in the rathe 
comb, and the warp run through this 
rathe on to the beam. After beaming 
the warp is drawn in in the regular 
manner. 

To finish this fabric, the goods are 
taken from the loom and run through 
the brusher, then through the sprink- 
ler, after which they are very lightly 
sized, then run upon the tentering 
machine to prevent undue shrinkage 
in width, also to assist in drying, then 
calendered, but not to a glossy finish. 

CONSTRUCTION. 
Style — Roto Uoj — finished 22 inches 
wide; reed, 1,080 — 23i/^ inches in 
reed, two ends per dent; l-26s cotton 
warp — 10 per cent take-up; l-22s cot- 
ton filling — 40 picks; ^— ^ , 45 degree, 

right-hand twill weave. 16 ends extra 
for selvedge. 

Warp pattern: 72 black x 72 
reed, toital 144, all equal 9 pattems 
plus 112 ends. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



101 



1424 ends in warp (including sel- 
vedge). 

Start 29 red at x. end 28 red at x. 

704 ends black plus 10 per cent 
equals 780 yards l-26s warp equals 
.5715 ounce; 720 ends red plus 10 per 
cent equals 800 yards l-6s warp equals 
.5860 ounce; 48 picks times 23^/^ 
equals 564 yards, l-22s filling equals 
.488 ounces and 564 yards, l-22s filling 
equals .488 ounce, equals 2.1335 
ounce. 2.1335 ounces per yard, 22 
inches wide. 

Finish — very light size, tenter, cal- 
ender. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns used in the manufaoture 
of tartan plaids are made in mills of 
the first and second divisiion^as given 
in a previous lesson. The counts of 
yarn vary according to the mill in 
which they are made and the counts 
taken as examples for this article are 
l-22s filling j'-arn and l-26s warp yam. 
The cotton used for these goods is of 
a fair grade and a staple varying from 
% inch to 1 1-16 inches. We will 
consider the staple! tO' be one inch. The 
cotton is stapled and put through a 
bale breaker and from here is passed 
by a series of lattice aprons to the 
mixing bin. Use as large a mixing as 
possible at one time, because the less 
mixamgis the evenier th© yarn will be. 
The good waste from the machines up 
to the slubber is mixed into the raw 
stock at this paint, the collections of 
this waste being made at regular in- 
tervals. The raw stock is sometimes 
put througlh 

TWO PROCESSES OF PICKING 

and an opener and sometimes through 
three processes of picking and an 
opener. It has been found that two 
processes of picking will clean the 
cotton properly, and at the same time 
will not be so apt to put neps into it. 
When two processes of picking are 
used, the particulars of the intermedi- 
ate picker given bellow maybe dropped, 
the other particulars remaining the 
same as given. The hopper or feed 
box of the opener should always be 
kept at least half full and generally a 
porcupine beater is used. The speed 
of this beater should be about 1,050 
revolutions per minute, with a fan- 
speed of 350 revolutions per minute. 
The cotton is then passed to the feed 
rolls of the breaker picker. Keep the 
pin beater of this machine free from 
cotton, as it has tO' be watched to see 
that the sliver waste does not tangle 



around it. This roll is more trouble- 
some on some makes Oif machines thian 
on others. The 

SPEED OF THE BEATER 

(which generally is of a two-bladed 
rigid type) is 1,500 revolutions per 
mdnute,the fan speed being 1,400 revo- 
lutions per minute. The weight of the 
lap at the front sihould be about 40 
pounds total weight or a IG^ounce lap. 
Some system of marking has to be 
employed so that the laps of other 
grades and lengths of staple will not 
becom.e mixed and thus canse trouble 
later on. Of course, like staples and 
weights of laps may be placed togeth- 
er, but it is the general custom to mark 
the laps at the end as they are taken 
off the machine with different colorecl 
crayons. For example, 1 1-16 may be 
marked brown, 1% blue, ] 1-16 sal- 
mon, etc. This is not generally done 
at any except the finisher picker. The 
laps are doubled four into one at the 
intermediate picker, the speed of the 
beater being 1,450 revolutions per 
minute, and the speed of the fan 1,050 
revolutions per minute. The weight 
of the lap at the front is about 37 
pounds. These laps are put up at the 
finisher picker and doubled four into 
one. It is at this point that 

THE ROVING WASTE 
is mixed in in a proportion of one lap 
of roving waste to three laps of raw 
stock. I'he cotton receives about 42 
beats per inch fed. The total weig'ht 
of the lap is about 39 pounds, or about 
a 16-ounce per yard lap. The speed 
of the beater is about 1,500 revolu- 
tions per minute, and the speed of the 
fan 1,100 revolutions per minute. The 
laps are then put up at the card. The 
card is set to accommodate this stock 
as described in a previous lesson, the 
speed of cylinder being 160 revolutions 
per minute. The speed of the licker-in 
is 300 revolutions per minute. Flats 
make one complete revolution every 
40 minutes. The draft should not ex- 
ceed 100. Use a large diameter doffer. 
Strip three times daily and grind 
at least once a month. The weight of 
the sliver is 65 grains per yard. The 
production is about 900 pounds per 
week of 60 hours. The sliver is then 
put through 

THREE PROCESSES OF DRAWING, 
being doubled six into one, the speed 
of the front roller being 400 revolu- 
tions per minute, the weight of 
drawing at the finisher being 70 
grains. Some of the points th'at aro 
to be looked out for are as follows: 



102 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



Stop mo'tions, rolls, laps and oiling. 
The sliver is next taken to the slubber 
and made into .40 bank roving,tlie 
usual standard for twist being used. 
Look out for the shape of j'^our bobbins 
The slubber roving is put through 
three processes of fly frames, doubling 
two into one. The hank roving at 
the first intermediate is 1.10. at the 
second 2.70 hank and at the jack 
frame five hank. 

The rovings are then taken to the 
spinning room and made imto the re- 
quired yarn. 

THE FILLING YARN 

may be taken to either the mule or 
ring spinning room. If taken to the 
ring spinning room, the following are 
good particulars to use for frame 
making 22s yarn: Gauge of frame,2?;4 : 
diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of 
traverse, Gi^incbes; twist per inch, 15.- 
25; speed of spindles, 7,400 revolutions 
per minute. For a warp frame spin- 
njng 26s use gauge of frame, 2% 
inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; 
length of traverse. 6 inchps: speed of 
spindles, 9.700 revolutions per 
minute. The warp yarn is then 
spooled, warped and put through a 
slasher. 



Dyeing Particulars. 
RED. 

4 per cemt diamine fast red F, 30 per 
cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 

GREEN. 

IV2 per cent diamine sky blue FF, 
1% per cent diamine fast yellow FF, 
30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal 
soda. 

BLACK. 

15 per cent thion black G, 15 per 
cent sulphide soda, 30 per cent salt; 3 
per cent soda ash. 

BROWN. 

5 per cent benzo fast orange S, 2 per 
cent chrysophenine, 21^ per cent benzo 
fast black, 30 per cent salt, 2 per cent 
soda ash. 

DRAB. 

% per cent bpnzo fast black, V^ per 
oenit chrysophenine, 3 ounces b(?.nzo 
fast red G L, 30 per cent Glauber's, 2 
per cent sal soda. 

SLATE. 

% per cent benzo fast black, V4 ounce 
chrysopherine, V4 ounce benzo fast 
red GL, 30 per cent Glauber's, 2 per 
cent sal soda. 



SCARLET. 

5 per cent diamine scarlet B, 30 per 
cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda. 

DARK GREEN. 

6 per cent diamine black HW, 4 per 
cent diamine fast j-'ellow B, 30 per cent 
Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda. 

WINE. 

6 per cent diamine Bordeau B, 30 per 
cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 

BLUE. 

4 per cent brilliant benzo blue 6 B, 
30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal 
soda. 

DARK BLUE. 

15 per cent pyroigene indigo B, 15 per 
cent sodium sulphide, 30 per cemt salt, 
3 per cent soda ash, 2 pints mineral 
oil. 

YELLOW. 

2 per cent chloramine yellow M, 30 
per cen't Glauber's, 2 per cemt soda 
ash. 

■*-*-*■ 



BAYADERE. 



Bayadere is a fabric in which the 
pattern consists of a stripe mnning 
aoross the width instead of the 
length of the material. Such patterns 
are almost entirely confined to ladies' 
and children's dress goods, and may 
be composed entirely of cotton, as in 
the cheapesit grades, of cotton and 
worsted in the medium, or entirely of 
worsited or worsted and silk in the hest 
grades. 

The fabric considered in this article 
is a medium grade cloth of ladies' 
dress goods, and is composed of worst- 
ed, silk and cotton and weighs 5% 
ounces per yard, 36 inohes w'ide, fin- 
ished. 

The pattern is a zigzag stripe, ex- 
tending across the fabric in the direc- 
tion of the weft on a rep ground. 

Figure 1 shows the full design fOr 
the one repeat of the pattern, and is 
complete on 132 warp threads and SO 
picks. 

Figure 2 is the drawing-in draft and 
is complete on 13 harnesses. 

Figure 3 is the reeding plan. 

Figure 4 is the chain draft. 

The arrangement of the warp and 
wp'"t threads is as follows: 

Warp, 2 threads blue 2-50s worsted 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



103 



(xx Ohio), 1 thread brov,rn 2-60s cot- 
ton (carded peeler); 3 threads in pat- 
tern. 

Weft, 1 pick light blue 40-2s spun 
silk, 2 picks brown, 20-cut cotton 
(wool spun): 3 picks in pattern. 



Fig. 3. Pig-. 2. 



When drawlng-in, cotton muisit al- 
ways come on first four shafts, and 
worsted on the last nine shafts. 

Almost any dobby ioom might be 
used having the required number of 
harncss.-s and shuttle boxes. 



Fis-. 




20 reed, 3 threads per dent— 60 
iJireads per inch. Reeded 38 Vo inches 
wide for 36 inches finished, 40 picks 
per inch. 

The above warp must be made on 
two beams: coifcton threads on top 
beam, worsited threads on bottom 
beam. 



In regulating the tension of the two 
beams, oons;iderable care must be used 
in order that the rib in the ground 
may be made a:s clear and distinct as 
possible. This may be accomplished 
by having relatively more weight on 
the cott'on beam than on the worsted, 
which is an importanit feature in the 



104 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



manufacture of all fabrics of a rep 
chatraoter, and which is fully illusitrat- 
ed by the small sketch. Figure 5. It 
will be noticed that the cotton (thin) 
threiads ax-e held very nearly straight, 
while th^ worsted are forced to bend 
around the heavy picks of the weft. 
The take-up of the woirsted threads is 
therefore much greater than that of 
the cottooi, being about eighit per cent, 
while the cotton is only about tvv^o per 
cent. 

The worsited warp then must be 
made relatiively longer. 

In introducing the weft threads, the 



DDaDBaaHiBaaB 
□Doaaaaaaaaaa 
aaaaaaanoDDoa 
Daaaaaaaaaaaa 
Gaaoaaaaaaaaa 
aaaBDaGDnaaan 
DQDaaaaasaaaa 
DDDDaaaaaaaaa 
aaaaanaoDDaaa 
GoDDaaaaaaaaa 
DDDnaaaaaaaaa 
aaaaana-iaaDaG 
DDDDaaaaaaaaa 
DDDDaaaaaaaaa 
aaaaDGDDauBDa 
DDDDaaaaaaaaa 
DDDDaaaaaaaaa 
aaaaoDDinBaaa 
DDDDBaaaBBBaa 

DGDDBaaBBB'BB 

aaaaiDaGaDaDG 
DDDDaaaaaaaaa 
DDDDaaaaaaaaa 
aaaanaDaDaDOU 
DDDDaaaaaaaaa 
DDDDaaaaaaaaa 
aaaaaDa ^aDDDD 
DDDDaaaaaaaaa 
DDDDaaaaaaaaa 
aaaaDanaDDGDO 

Fig. 4. 



silk pick must always enter when the 
cotton warp threiads are up in the 
.ground piortion of the cloth. 

THE FINISHING. 

In fini'Sihing fabrics of this character 
everything depiends upon the quality 
of the cloth — the fabric just described 
having a dry finish, viz.: after being 
burled and mended, it is brushed and 
pi'eissed and rolled and is then ready 
for f3ihipment. 

In the best grades, however, the 
cloth musit be scoured, tentered, shear- 
ed, brushed and pressed before being 
rolled and miade ready for shipment. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The machines used in making the 
count of yarn required for the warp 
yarn of bayadere will be found in the 
second division of mills, as gliven in a 
previous lesson. Bayaderes, as has 
been stated, may be composed of all 
worsted, or all cotton yarns or a mix- 
ture of worsted and cotton yarns, or a 
mixture of worsted, silk and cotton. 
In fact, there may be almO'Sit any com- 
bination of these three fibres. The 



besit grades of bayadere are made up 
of worsted and silk yarns. For this 
article we will consider that the fabric 
is composed of all three kinds of raw 
stock, worsted, silk and cotton. Par 
the warp, 2-60s yarn is used and for 
the filling a 20-cut cotton yam is 
used. The filling yarn is spun in a 
woolen mill and so 

THE WARP YARN 

will be the one considered under the 
above heading. 

Pot this count of yam a peeler cot- 
ton is used of about 1^4 inches staple. 
This cotton should be of a good grade 
and should be run throug'h a bale 
breaker. The principal part of the 
miixing is done at the bale breaker for 
this cotton. The odtton is brougiht 
from the stoirehouse and sampled and 
the bales having the same leng'th of 
staple are put togeither. Those hav- 
ing a staple or grade not up to mark 
are laid one side. Several bales are 
opened and placed aroimd the bale 
breaker and the attendant feeds from 
each bale alternaitieily until all the cot- 
ton is gone. As many bales as pos- 
sible and convenient should be opened 




II>^1 



Fii 



and placed around the bale breaker at 
on© time because a 

MORE EVEN MIXING 

will thus be obtained and the yam Will 
run a great deal evener. After passing 
through the bale breaker the stock is 
conveyed automatically tO' the mixing 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



106 



bins. If ith'e mixing is done by hand, 
the same- pdints have tO' be looked out 
for, the only difference being that sev- 
eral hands are used inistead of a ma- 
chine. At the bins the good waste is 
mixed. The raw stock is then passed 
through two or three processes of 
picking and an openeir. If only two 
processes of picking are used, then th'e 
particulars given for the intermediate 
picker may be left oiut,the other partic- 
ulars given remaining the same. The 
hopper of the opener should always be 
kept more titan half full. The speed of 

THE BEATER 

is 1,050 revolutions per minute. Gen- 
erally a porcupine style of beater is 
used for this machine, with a fair 
speed of 350 revolutions per minute. 
The cotton is then passed to the 
breaker picker. The speed of the 
beater (two-bladed rigid type) is 
about 1,500 revolutions per minute, 
thiat of the fan, 1,400 revolutions per 
minute. The weight of the laps at the 
front should be about 40 pounds, or a 
lO-ounce lap. The laps are put up at 
the intermediate picker and doubled 
four into one. The speed of the; beater 
sihould be 1,450 revolutions P'cr minute. 
That of the fan 1,050 revolutioins per 
minute. The weight of the laps at the 
frout end should be about 37 pounds.or 
a 12-ouncelap for peeler cotton to make 
this class of goods. 

The laps are put up at the finisher 
picker and doubled four into one. It 
is at this point that the 

CUT ROVING IS MIXED IN 

(it having been previously put through 
a special picker, which takes out the 
twist and leaves it in a fluffy, untwist- 
ed state and then it is put through a 
picker and made into a lap of the 
siame weigM as 'the laps from the in- 
termediate picker), in the proportion 
of three lapis of raw stock to one lap 
waste. The speed of the beater for 
this machine is ],450 revolutions per 
minute, with a fan speed of 1,100 revo- 
lutions per minute. This gives the 
ooittoin passing through 42 beats or 
blows per inch. The Weight of the 
lap at th'e front is 35 pounds, or a 13%- 
ounce lap. Watch all the points that 
have previously been pointed out. The 
variation from standard should not be 
over S ounces either side for the to- 
tal lap. The lap is next taken to the 
card. The 

SETTINGS OP THE CARD 

for this division of mills have been 
previously given. 



Tl)e draft should not exceed 100; 
speed of licker-in, 300 revolutions per 
minute; speed of flats, 1 revolutio'n 
every 45 minutes; weight of sliver, 65 
grainis; production about 650 pounds 
for week of 60 hours. Sitrip three times 
a day, grind once a month, and use as 
large a doffer as possible. The sliver 
is next puit through three processes of 
drawing, the doublings at eiach prociess 
being six inlto onie, the weight of the 
finisher drawing being 72 gTains per 
yard, and the revoiutJionis per minute 
of front roll 350. Either metallic or 
leather covered rolls may be used at 
this machine. If the former arei used, 
see that they are properly set and ke^ep 
them well scoured; if the latter are 
used, keep them in good repair, well 
varniished, and oiled. For this length 
of staple the following 

SETTINGS 

of the bottom steel rolls may be used: 
Front roll to second roll, IV2 
inches; second roll to third, 1% 
inches; third roll to back, 1% inches. 
The sliver is put through tlie slubber 
and made into .55 hank roving. Three 
processes of speeders or fly frames are 
used, the hank roving being as fol- 
lows: at first intermediate 1.50; at the 
second, 4, and at the jack frame, 12. 
The usual points are to be looked out 
for in oonneotion with fly frames. The 
roving is then passed to the spinning 
room and made into 60s varn. For a 
warp frame making this count use the 
following particulars: Gauge of frame, 
2-14 inches; diameter of ring, 1% 
inches; length of traverse, 6 inches; 
twist per inch, 34.86; speed of spindle, 
ro,000 revolutions per minute. The 
yarn is then taken to the twister and 
doubled or twisted into a two-ply 
yarn. It is then passed to the spool- 
er and from here to the warper and 
from here to the slasher. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

BROWN. 

5 per cent diamine brown B, 1 per 
cent diamine fast yellow B, 30 per cent 
Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda. 

LIGHT BLUE (SILK). 
1 per cent patent blue, pure, 5 per 
cent acetic acid. 

BLUE (WORSTED). 

3 per cent patent blue A, 20 per oeim 
Glauber's salt, 5 per cent sulphuric 
a(5id. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



BODCLE, 



Boiicle is a single cloth, dreiss goads 
fabric, weighing from 7 to 8 ounces i>er 
yard, 44 inches wide finished, and coim- 
posed of plain and fancy twist (cot- 
ton) yarn in warp and filling, also hav- 
ing a worsted loop yarn in the filling. 

Boucle is used principally ajs a nov- 
elty dress fabric for ladies' spring and 
fall suitings, the distinguishing fea- 



DBM^CiHaa 

HaCDBaDD 

■a ■■aca 
DDBaDDaa 

□BBGGBBa 

BBDaaaaa 
BaaaaGDB 

Weave 

nnDBDDDB 
ODaDDDBD 
DBDDDBDD 

■aanaana 



OBDBOBDB 

BDBDBDBD 

Seed Flan 

BOUCr.E (Woolen) 
Warp, all brown. Filling, 3 brown. 



1 worsted, 1 loop. 



DwaBaBDBDBa 
DBDBBBDBaBBB 
BaBaflBBDBDBB 

DDBDBDBCBDB 
DBianDDBDCDa 
rBDBGBOBCBDBD 

J DBa"BwnBa»BB 

1 aDBDMBBDaDBB 

(."■rw^Bf^aDana 

CDZBDaDDDBDD 



□DDDnannnanB 
DDnaBnaDDaBi j 

aaDBDDGDDBDD 
□DaDDDODaDGU 

DBDaannBaann 
BDDUDaaoanan 

Drawdng-in Draft. 



Reed Plan 
BOUCLE (Cotton) 



Weave 



ture of the cloth bieing the small loop 
in the filling yarn, whicfh curls over 
the face of the goods. 

COTTON BOUOLB 

is generally made with a fancy combi- 
natiO'n weave, and the all-wool grades 
•with a sitraSght twill weave. 

In the fabric boucle the loop yarn is 
always a worsted filling thread,twisted 
with a single cotton thread, generally 
dyed black. The color effects are 



either solid color in warp and filling 
with the loop yarn in contrast, or end 
and end patterns, created by using 
fancy colored cotton twist yarns. The 
colors most used are: Brown, dark 
blue, cadet blue, light green, drab, etc., 
or these same colors are twisted with 
a black thread for twist effects. 
Boucle is usually woven in the pick 
and pick loom, owing to the fact that 
there is never more than one pick of 
loop filling put in at one place, the ar- 
rangement generally being 4, 5, 6, 8 
picks, cotton or cotton twist, to one 
pick of worsted loop yarn. 

The woven fabric (loom) of this 
n!ame is very closely imitated by a 
knitted fabric of similar appearance, 
which is a light-weight grade of as- 
trakhan. 

THE KNITTED FABRIC 

is made of cotton yarns, wound in cone 
shape and placed upon the Icnitting 
frame, no warp being required, and the 
thread which forms the loop is a reg- 
ular worsited thread, dyed black and 
wound upon a small bottle bobbin. 
The loops on the face of the cloth 
are formed by the loop wheels in 
the machine throwing the worsted 
thread between the stitching places, 
upon the face of the cloth in such a 
manner as to form a loop. 

WARP PREPARATION. 

The yarns can be taken direct from 
the twister and spooled upon small 
6-inch spools and these spools assem- 
bled in the creel rack at the warp mill 
and the warp made in sections upon 
the mill drum, and afterwards run ofE 
the drum upon the loom beam: or, the 
yarns are taken from the twister and 
the entire number of spools required 
are placed upon a creel rack and the 
whole warp made by being run around 
an upright mill drum, which is an up- 
right framework centred upon an 
axle and turned by a crank, and hav- 
ing a circumference of from 20 to 50 
yards. 

If made upon an upright mill, the 
warp, when finished, is pulled off and 
beamed. 

To finish boucle, the goods are tak- 
en froim the loom, and scoured in a 
solution of sioap and cold water, after 
which they are rinsed in cold water, 
tentered and pressed. 



CONSTRUCTION. 
Reed, 720 — 49'^ inches — 1 end 



per 



dent, 20 picks per inch; 2-12s cotton 
warp and filling. 

Warp pattern: 4 black and blue 
twist, 2 black. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



107 



Filling pattern: 4 black and blue 
twist, ] black loop yarn. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The machines on which the counts 
of yarn are made in the manufacture 
of boucle will be found in the first di- 
vision of malls, as given in a previous 
lesson. The warp yarn is made from 
a coitton fibre, as is the filling yarn, 
but this class of cloth has an extra fill- 
lng,which is spun from a worsted fibre. 
This woTSited filling is what is known 
as a loop yarn and when woven into 
the cloth glives it a rough surface. The 
loo'ps are obtained by different meth- 
ods, this one being a three-ply 
yarn. 

THE YARN 

to make the filling warp yarns for 
boucle is made from raw stock having 
a staple of about one inch. This raw 
stock is generally mixed, in large 
quantities, by hand. If two mixings 
are made, it is a greiat deal better, for 
them one mixing can be standing and 
drying oxit while the other mixing is 
being used. The good waste is mixed 
at this point and sometimes, although 
on a poor quality of goods, a small per- 
centage of comber waste is used in the 
mixing. The raw stock is run throug'h 
an. opener and three processes of 
pickers. The hopp^er or feed box of the 
opener should be kept more than half 
full in order to oibtain as even a feed 
as possiible. The speed of the beater 
is 1,000 revolutions per minute. 

The cotitoin sheet is then passed on 
to the feed rolls of the breaker and 
is sitruck from them by the beater, 
which, if of the rigid two-bladeid type, 
makes 1,500 revolutions per minute. 
The total weight of the lap' at tihe 
front is 40 pounds, or a 16-ounce lap. 
These laps arei doubled, four into one, 
at tihei intermediate picker, of which 
the beateir makes 1,450 reivolutions per 
minute. The total weight of the lap 
at the front of this machine is 39 
pounds, or liVz ounces to the yard. The 
laps are next 

DOUBLED FOUR INTO ONE 

at the finisher picker. It is at this 
point that the cut roving waste is 
mixed in in the proportion of one lap 
cut roving to three laps raw stock. 
The beater of this machine makes 1,450 
revolutions per minute, which gives 42 
beats per inch of cotton fed. The to- 
tal weight of lap at the front is 39 



pounds, or a 14'/^-'0unce lap. It will 
thus be seen that the doublings in a 
picker room, where three processes of 
picking are used, will be 16 against 
a total draft of 14.6, the individual 
drafts at the pickers being about 1.86 
at breaker and 2.80 alt the intermediate 
and finisher pickers. The laps are put 
up at the oard, the draft of which for 
this class of goods should not exceed 
100. The speed of the licker-in is 300 
revolutions per minute, the top flats 
m^aking one revolution every 45 min- 
utes. The card fillet of work of this 
class should use No. 32 wire for cyl- 
inder and No. 33 wire for doffer and 
top flats (No. 32 wire equals 90s Eng- 
lish count and No. 33 wire equals 100s). 
Grind wire once a month, strip three 
times a day, both cylinder and doffer, 
although some overseers strip the dof- 
fer once more. The weight of the 
sliver should be about 65 grains per 
yard and the card should produce be- 
tween 900 and 950 pounds per week of 
60 hours. See that your knifeblades 
under the licker-in are properly set. 
The tv^o-knife arrangement is beitter 
than the one knife. Use 

A LARGE SIZE DOFFER. 

In setting your doffer to the cylinder 
use a No. 5 gauge. Two processes of 
drawing are generally used and for 
this class of work it is the general 
custom to use metallic rolls, as they 
are better adapted to this class of 
work than the leather covered top 
rolls. In calculating the piroduction 
turned off for metallic rolls always 
add 33 1-3 per cent over that calculated 
for leather covered rolls. The sliver 
weighs ajbout 70 grains per yard and 
with 400 revolutions per minute of 
front roll produces 2,100 pounds per 
week of 60 hours. The roving is then 
put through the slubber and made in- 
to 40 hank roving. It is then run 
through 

TWO PROCESSES OF FLY FRAMES, 
■w^here it is made intO' 1.25 hank at the 
first intermediate and 2.50 at the sec- 
ond. The roving- is ihen taken to the 
spinning room. The particulars used 
for a Avairp spinning frame making 12s 
yarn would he as follows: Gauge of 
frame, 3 indhes; diameter of ring, 2l^ 
inches; length of traverse, 7 to 7%; 
speed of spindles, 19,000; and for a fill- 
ing frame spinning 12s use: Gauge of 
spindle, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 
]i^ inches; length of traverse,7 inches; 
speed of spindle. 6,600. The yarn is 
then spooled, twisted into 2-ply 12s 
and warped, after which it is run 
through a slasher. 



108 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



Colors for Boucie. 

Following are good formulas for 
deing boucie: 

BROWN. 
10 per cent thion brown G, 10 per 
cent sulphide sodium, 30 per cent 
Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 

DARK BLUE. 
10 per cent immedial indone B, 10 
per cent sulphide sodium, 30 per cent 
Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 

CADET BLUE. 
8 per cent immedial sky blue, 8 per 
cent sulphide sodium, 30 per cent 
Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 

LIGHT GREEN. 
4 per cent immedial sky blue, 3 per 
cent immedial yellow D, 7 per cent 
sulphide sodium, 30 per cent Glauber's, 
3 per cent sal soda. 



DRAB. 



3 per cent thion black G, % per cent 
thion brown G, 3 per cent sulphide so- 
da, 20 per cent Glauber's, 2 per cent 



sal soda. 



SLATE. 



2 per cent immedial black N N, 2 per 
cent sulphide soda, 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's, 2 per cent soda ash. 

BLACK. 

15 per cent immedial black N B, 15 
per cent sulphide soda, 30 per cent 
Glauber's, S per cent soda ash. 

SCARLET. 
6 per cent diamine scarlet B, 3 per 
cent sal soda, 30 per cent Glauber's. 

RED. 

6 per cent benzo fast red 4 B, 30 per 
cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 



COMBED YARN GOODS— 
COTTON LININGS, 



Cotton lining is a single cloth, all 
cotton fabric, weighing from 2 to 214 
ounces per yard, the goods finished at 
20% inches, including % inch for 
white selvedge. All combed cotton 
warp yarns are used in the produc- 
tion of this fabric,which,when finished, 
is used principally in the manufacture 
of sleeve linings, and as a stiffening in 
the more expensive grades of ladies' 
.and men's clothing. 



The object of treating the cottoa 
while in the sliver state, to the addi- 
tional process of combing,is to further 
assist in the operation of straightening^ 
out, or paralleling of the cotton fibres. 
Combed cotton, after being spun into 
yarn, produces a smooth, round, even 
thread. 

SLEEVE LININGS 

are made of combed yarns which after 
being dyed the required color are- 
glazed or polished, and this process, in 
connection with the weave employed, 
generally an eight harness satin warp 
effect face, gives to the yarn in cloth 
the appearance of a close woven hair 
cloth fabric. The finished fabric has 
a very smooth, hard, even face, though 
not a harsh feel. 

Linings are usually made in solid 
black color, or in fancy bright colored 
stripes,upoii a black groun'l. The col- 
ors forming the stripe patterns are- 
cherry red, cadet blue, yellow, red, 
brown, etc. 

The glazing machine consists main- 
ly of a large copper cylinder, four or 



Weave 



DDDDnnDB 
DDDDGDBP 
DDaDDKDD 

anaDBDDD 
□naBDDDn 

OaBDDDDD 

QBaDaana 
■nnaaDDa 

Drawing-in Dralt 

■■DDBBaa 

Reed Pla a 



five feet in diameter. This cylinder is 
heated to a high degree of intensity by 
either gas or steam. 

As the cylinder revolves, there are 
a series of rollers working against its 
surface, and running in an opposite di- 
rection. These rollers are set in the ma- 
chine frame above the cylinder and at 
regular distances, in much the same- 
manner as the workers and stripper 
on a woolen card. 

The yarn is fed to the machine 
through a pair of feed rollers, from 
which it passes over the face of the 
cylinder, and under the small rollers, 
or, in other words, between the cylin- 
der and the small rollers, after which 
it is delivered by a pair of rollers, sim- 
ilar to the feed rollers. The yarn is 
run through the machine twice, the 
object being to submit all parts of its 
surface to the friction, to cause the 
glaze to come up. 

Linings can be woven in a single- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



101 



box roller or clipper loom. Lots ot 
trouble is thus developed by the fancy 
strapping required to produce the satin 
weave effects. 

Good results are obtained by using 
plain, single box loom, having a dobby, 
or witch top attached. 

To finish this fabric, the goods are 
taken from the loom and lightly 
starched, then run through the calen- 
der two or three times to set the 
smooth, glazed finish. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed, 1,000 — 23 inches in reed, two 
ends per dent; 62 picks l-30s black 
cotton filling, l-20s cotton (glazed 
warp) yarn. 

Warp pattern: 10 black, 4 cadet 
blue, 10 black, 4 j^ellow. Weight, about 
2% ounces; finish, 20% inches. Eight 
harness satin weave; warp effect face. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Cotton linings are made of various 
counts of yarn, according to what 
grade of linings is wanted. In this ar- 
ticle we will consider that the cotton 
warp yarn is,l-20s combed, and the 
filling yarn l-30s. The j'arn for linings 
of this grade would be spun in mills 
of the second division, as given in a 
previous lesson, although yarns for 
linings are made in all three divisions 
of mills. 

THE RAW STOCK 

used should be of a fair grade, with a 
staple of about 1 5-16 inches. This 
is put through a bale breaker and 
from here carried by a series of end- 
less lattices to its proper bin. 

The bins to hold the different grades 
of cotton should be plainly marked on 
both ends, showing the kind, grade 
and length of staple.sothatno mistakes 
will occur through guesswork. If 
different lengths of staple get mixed 
togethei it will cause a great deal of 
trouble at the machines, having their 
rolls set at a certain distance of one 
length of staple. 

The cotton is fed to the bale break- 
er in the manner described in the last 
lesson. The cotton is allowed to dry 
out as much as possible before beint; 
fed to the opener. The good waste is 
mixed in at the bins. This class of 
* cotton passes through an opener and 
either two or three processes of pick- 
ing (generally two processes being 
used). If only two processes are used 
the particulars given for the interme- 
diate picker may be omitted. Use the 
different speeds of the opener and 



pickers as given in a previous lesson. 
The total weight of the lap at the front 
end of the breaker picker is 50 pounds, 
or 16 ounces to the yard. This is put 
up at the intermediate and 

DOUBLED FOUR INTO ONE 

and this lap at the front end has a 
total weight of 37 pounds,or 12 ounces 
to the yard. This lap in turn is put up 
at the finisher picker and doubled four 
into one. It is at this point that the 
cut roving waste is mixed in in a pro- 
portion of three laps of raw stock to 
one lap of cut roving. The total 
weight of lap at the front is 35 
pounds,OT 12% ounces to the yard. The 
laps are then put up at the card, the 
draft of which should not be less than 
120. A large doffer should be used; the 
card should be stripped three times a 
day and ground at least once a month. 
The cylinder speed is 160 revolutions 
per minute; speed of licker-in, 300 
revolutions per minute. The top flats 
should make, one complete revolution 
every 35 minutes. The production of 
the card should be 500 pounds per 
week of 60 hours, the weight of the 
sliver being 50 grains per yard. The 
sliver (in cans) to be used for warp 
yarn is collected and passed to the 

SLIVER LAP MACHINE, 

or, as it is sometimes called, the small 
doubler; here it is doubled 14 into 1 
and made into a lap. This sheet of lap 
weighs 395 grains to the yard. Six of 
these laps are put up at the ribbon lap 
machine, or. as it is sometimes called, 
the large doubler. These are doubled 
into one sheet of lap, which weighs 
260 grains per yard. Six of these laps 
.are put up at the comber and made 
into a sliver weighing 45 grains per 
yard. The speed of the comber should 
bo about 90 nips per minute. The ma- 
chine is set so as to take out 18 per 
cent of waste. The draft of this ma- 
chine for this class of cotton should 
be about 27.50. 

This sliver is then put through two 
processes of drawing, the weight of 
the sliver at the front of the finisher 
drawing being 70 grains per yard. The 
speed of the front rolls of this ma- 
chine is 350 revolutions per minute. 
Either metallic or leather covered 
top rolls may bo used. The sliver is 
put through the slubber and made into 
.50 hank roving. This roving is passed 
through 

TWO PROCESSES OF FLY FRAMES, 
the hank roving at each being as fol- 
lows: At first intermediate, 1.50; at sec- 
ond intermediate, 4.50. This is then 



no 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



take 1 to the ring spinning room and 
spun into 20s yarn, using a frame hav- 
ing a spindle gauge of 2% inches, a 
2- inch diameter ring, a 7-inch length of 
traverse, a spindle speed of 9,400 rev- 
olutions per minute, and a twist per 
inch of 21.24. This yarn is next spooled, 
then warped, after which it is put 
through the slasher. 
The weights and processes used for 

THE FULLING YARNS 

are different from the above. Starting 
at the card, the draft should be abcmc 
100; the flats make one complete rev- 
oUition every 50 minutes; the sliver 
weighs 65 grains per yard.and the pro- 
duction is 700 pounds per week. This 
is then put through three processes of 
drawing, the weight' of the sliver at 
the finisher drawing being 73 grains 
per yard. The slubber roving is .55 
hank. This is put through two proc- 
esses of fly frames, the hank roving 
being as follows: At the first interme- 
diate 2.00 and at the second 7.25 hank. 
This roving is then taken to either the 
ring spinning or the mule room and 
spun into 30s yarn. If the former, use 
a frame having a gauge of 2% inches; 
diameter of ring, 1% inches; length 
of traverse, 6 inches; speed of spin- 
dles, 8,300 revolutions per minute; 
twist per inch, 19.17. 



CASHMERE TWILL. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

Many of the cheap linings are dyed 
a logwood black. By some people log- 
wood black is asked for, because the 
goods gain in weight, as logwood 
feeds the goods, adds weight and sub- 
stance, and all artificial blacks reduce 
the weight of the cloth. 

I'he logwood bath generally used is 
the steam, black. First, the goods are 
padded in a solution of logwood about 
5 degrees Tw., dried over steam cans, 
run through a solution of bichromate 
of soda four oimces to the gallon, and 
then run through a steam box, and 
afterwards rinsed well in water. A 
one-dip aniline black is also dyed in 
some cases, and the oxidized aniline 
salt black is dj-ed to a large extent. 

The new sulphur blacks are being 
gradually introduced and may,ii time, 
supersede all other blacks. But for 
most purposes the black obtained by 
logwood is all that is required. 

The black and colored prints are 
printed with resist colors, and after- 
wards padded with aniline black, and 
finished with calendered, bettle or 
schreiner finish. Most finishes are 
very bright and glazed. 



Cashmere twill is a light-weight, 
single cloth, weighing from 2% to 3 
ounces per yard, finished at 27 to 28 
inches wide, and composed of about 
l-20s cotton warp, and l-16s to l-20s 
cotton or cotton shoddy filling. 

It is usually woven with an even or 
uneven sided twill weave, such as ? — 

2 

or ^ . the warp being all black, of 
dyed yarn, and the pattern being 
printed upon the face of the goods 
after the weaving operation. 

THE PATTERNS 
are generally small effects, produced 
by printing drabs or grays upon the 
black ground in imitation of twist 



Weave 

DCDDDDDB 
DDDDaaBD 
DDQDDBDa 
DDDDBDna 

aaauaana 
D«aDDDaa 

■DaDDDDn 
Brawing-iD Draft 

uuaammna 

Reed Plan 



DHDDHaa 
■■DDBBOa 

■aDBiDDa 
aaaaacBB 

DaaDDBBD 

BaDDBaaa 
aaaaaDDB 

Weave 



nnDBDnna 

DDBDnDBD 
□BDDDBDD 
BaDDBDDD 
Drawing'in Draft 



nOBBDDBB 

BBDDBBDD 

Reed Plan 



yarn effects, the whole forming 
somewhat the appearance of a fancy 
mixed woolen fabric. 

This style of cloth was used princi- 
pally in the manufacture of ladies' fall 
novelty suitings, and can be woven on 
either the plain roller loom or a me- 
dium weight loom having dobby or 
witch attached. 

To finish this fabric, the cloth is tak- 
en from the loom and run through the 
printing machine to produce the pat- 
tern upon the face of the fabric, after 
which the goods are lightly sized and 
calendered. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed, 700 — 30 inches in reed, 2 ends 
per dent — 16 ends selvedge — ^ 45 de- 
grees twill weave; l-20s cotton warp 
(black); 42 picks 1-16S cotton filling. 

1,166 ends plus 16 equals 1,182 ends 
plus 5 per cent take-up in warp in 
weaving equals 1,227 yards l-20s cot- 
ton warp equals 1.17 ounces; 42 picks 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



HI 



times 30 inches equals 1,260 yards l-16s 
cotton filling equals 1.5 ounces. 

1.17 ounces warp weight plus 1.5 
ounces filling weight equals 2.67 ounces 
per yard. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The warp yarn used in the manufac- 
ture of cashmere twills may be made 
in either the first or second division of 
mills as given in a previous lesson. The 
filling yarn may be made in a cotton 
mill or in a woolen mill. For this ar- 
ticle we will consider the warp and 
filling yarns to be l-20s. For this 
count of yarn a medium grade of cot- 
ton should be used. A bale breaker 
would not be used, although it would 
improve the yarn. The mixing would 
be done by hand and as large a mixing 
as possible would be made at one time. 
By doing so there will be a saving time 
and also a more even yarn will be se- 
cured. The bales of cotton should be 
sampled and mixed in the manner de- 
scribed in a previous lesson. 

As the mixing is done by hand it 
sliould be allowed to stand as long as 
possible, so as to dry out, thus making 
the cotton 

EASIER TO HANDLE. 
It is at this point that the good waste 
from the machines up to the slubber 
is used. This waste should be pulled 
apart as much as possible before be- 
ing thrown into the mixing so that it 
will not work around the pin beater of 
the opener as it is apt to do when left 
coiled up The cotton is put through 
an opener and two processes of pick- 
ing. 

7"he speed of the beater of the open- 
er should be about 1,700 revolutions 
per minute. The hopper should al- 
ways be kept half full and the fly 
cleaned out at frequent and regular 
intervals. The speed of a two-bladed 
rigid type beater of the breaker picker 
for this stock should be about 1,500 
revolutions per minute. The total 
weight at the front is 40 pounds or 
16 ounces to the yard. 

THE LAPS 
are doubled four into one at the fin- 
isher picker, and it is at this point that 
the cut rovi''g waste laps are mixed in 
in the proportion of three laps of raw 
stock to one lap of cut waste. The 
speed of this lieater (two bladed rigid 
tj'po"! is 1,450 revolutions per minute. 
This v/ill give the cotton passing 
throurh the machine about 42 bents 
per inch of cotton fed. The total 
weight of the lap at the front should 
t)e 39 pounds or 14 ounces to the yard. 



Take good care of your machines and 
keep them well oiled, cleaned, and set 
and the work will be greatly improved, 
both as to appearance and production. 
The lap is put up at the card and the 
draft should not exceed 100. The flats 
should make one complete revolution 
every 45 minutes. 

THE CARDS 
should be clea^ied at least twice a day 
and the fly taken from underneath 
once a day. The stripe waste should be 
gathered four times a day. The cards 
should be stripped (doffers and cylin- 
ders) three times a day and ground 
once a month, except in the case of 
accidents, when they should be ground 
until the wire is level and sharp. Light 
grinding should always be used. Use 
as large a doffer as possible, use either 
one having a 26 or 27 inch diameter. 
The production of a cfird on this stock 
should be about 800 pounds for a week 
of 60 hours. The card sliver is then 
put through 
THREE PROCESSES OF DRAWING 

FRAMES. 
Metallic rolls may be used to great ad- 
vantage on this grade of stock. The 
sliver at the front of the finisher draw- 
ing frame should weigh about 70 
grains to the yard. The slubber draws 
this sliver into .40 hank roving. It is 
then put through the fly frames. The 
roving for warp yarns is then taken to 
the ring spinning room and the rov- 
ing for filling may be taken to either 
the ring spinning or the mule room. 
For this class of goods the filling yarn 
is generally ri g spun. For a warp 
frame spinning 20s use the following 
particulars: Gauge of frame, 2% 
inches; diameter of ring, 2 inches; 
length of traverse, 7 inches; twist per 
inch, 21.24; speed of spindle, 9,400 rev- 
olutions per minute. For a filling 
frame use a frame having a 2% inches 
gauge, 1^/^ inches diameter ring, C,V2 
inches length of traverse, the yarn 
having 14.50 turns per in^h, and the 
speed of the spindles is 7,300 revolu- 
tions per minute. The warp, yarn is 
then spooled, warped and put through 
a slasher. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
BL.ACK WARP. 
15 per cent snlnhnr bla-^k, if for jet 
blfi^ck, immedi'^1 N N. if for blue black, 
immedi'^1 N P l^ ppv ^ent sodium sul- 
phide. 30 per reu* Glnnber's, 3 per cent 
soda ash. Dye'' in a w^rn dyeing ma- 
chine. After the r>'or>Hs are woven and 
cleaned with a good soaping and rins- 



n2 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



ing, they are sent to the printer and 
printed with different patterns and 
styles, to imitate mixed woolen fab- 
rics, and are then finished and made 
up like woolen goods. 



BAYADERE MADE ENTIRELY 
OF MERCERIZED COTTON. 



In a previous article a descrip- 
tion was given of a "bayadere" 
fabric, in which the materials of 
which it was constructed were cotton, 
worsted and silk and whose foundation 
was a "rep" weave. 




Fig. 1. 

It is now intended to show another 
"bayadere" fabric, but v/hich is com- 
posed entirely of mercerized cotton 
and whose structure is based upon the 
plain weave, the finished width 36 
inches and the weight 4% ounces 
per finished yard. 

Such a fabric is shown in Fig. 1, 
which is a very good illustration of 
this class of patterns, whose chief 
feature is the zigzag stripe extending 
across the cloth in the direction of 
the weft. 

The size and elaborate effect of this 
pattern make it resemble a jacquard 
effect, but it can in fact be produced 
on a comparatively low number of har- 
nesses. 



Fig. 2 shows the full design, which 
is complete on 64 warp threads and 48 
picks. 

As before mentioned.the plain weave 
is used as the 

BASIS OF THE FULL DESIGN, 

and between the stripes (ground) all 
the threads are interlaced on the plain 
weave and form a single cloth; but 
the stripes themselves (figure) are 
formed by lowering all the fine threads 
(marked \ at top of full design, Fig. 2) 
and raising all the coarse threads 
(marked . ) to the surface of the cloth 
and thus forming a double cloth, with 
each of the two single cloths thus 
formed interlaced with the plain 
weave, throughout the stripe or baya- 
dere. 

Fig. 3 illustrates the drawing-in 
draft, which reauires 18 shafts, 10 for 
the ground and 8 for the figure threads. 

Fig 4 shows the reeding pan. 

The material and arrangement of 
the threads are as follows: 

Warp: 6 threads 2-40s blue mercer- 
ized cotton (one in a heddle), four 
threads 2-20s black mercerized cotton 
(two in a heddle); total, 10 threads 
in one repeat of pattern. 

950 reed — 38 ¥2 inches wide to finish 
sy inches, 40 picks per inch. 

Filling: 6 picks 2-40s blue mercer- 
ized cotton (single), 2 picks 2-20s black 
mercerized cotton (double); total, 8 
picks in one repeat of pattern. 

Fig. 5 shows the chain draft re- 
quired. The back picks must positive- 
ly come on the bars marked. 

It -will be noted that the black 2-20s 
cotton used in the warp is introduced 
2 threads in one heddle, and in the 
weft the same yarn is wound double, 
or two threads on a bobbin, which is 
done for the following reason: In many 
cloths from which this particular pat- 
tern was derived the black cotton 
used Avas very much heavier, that is, 
about 2-1 Os or 2-12s, with one thread 
introduced in one heddle, instead of 
two threads, which made the fabric 
appear very coarse and open in tex- 
ture; therefore, by using two threads 
of 2-20s the same weight of j^arn is 
employed, but being finer and the two 
threads lying side by side, the cloth 
is gi\en a much finer and closer tex- 
ture. 

COLORS. 

In cloths of this description the bay- 
adere stripe is generally black, which 
gives very great freedom in the choice 
of colors for the ground, as any good 
color may be combined with black, 
without any danger of the other suf- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



113 




■■■ ^ % m ■■■■iiaB.. ■■■■■■■■■■■«■• ■ I ■. M Ba«B«a* ■■■■■■« jsSgaaaa.B 
■■ « ■' ■■■■pa« laaaaaa ■aaaia* ■ ■ ■ ■- aaaaaa* aaaiaaa ■aaaila aa 

aaa ■■- ■■.-■ .■■■ ■■. a. a. ■■■■■■-■ ■!■ laa^ a 



■•■a 

' a a - a a a - aaa aaaa aaaaaaa 



. a i. ii' a. B" 




Fig, 2. 



annnnnannnnnnnnnng 
DQDaDDDanaQaDDnaDa 
anDDDaanaaaaaQaaaa 
DDanDaaDDaGDDDDaDa 
DaDDnnnaaanDDaaDDD 
DGaaaDDDDDDDDDnaDa 
oaaQaaaaaDoaaamaozi 
DDaaDDaDDnDDDnnana 
DDDDaaaaDDDDDnDDaa 
DaaaaaaaaDDnDDaDon 
naaaaaaao naDanaQDa 

DOnnDDDDODDDDaDDDn 

nnanDDDDGDnaaDDDDa 
nnDDDDnnanDnDaDDaa 
nnnnDnnDDDDDBDnDau 
nnnnDnnnnDDDDBDann 
□aaananDnannDDnDDa 
naaHDDDDDDDnnoaaDa 

nDnOaDDDDDBDDDDDDn 

DDnnDDDDDnDaDnDDan 
nDDDaaDDDoaDDDnann 
□DaDDaDna oomaanaoa 
aaaaaaaaa amacanaaa 
□DnaaDDDCi nnaDDaDan 
aaaoDann t noDDGDnnc! 
□aaDDnnan DDDonnDDa 
Daanamaa DCOoDDL aa 
naaganaaa aDnDnaaDn 
HaDaaannanDDnnnDDa 

□□□□□□DDQODnDDOnDn 

DDngaaanaDDDDnDDnn 
DDODDDnaaaQDnDDnan 
HaaaaanDaanDapDaDD 
DBDDDnDDaDnciDtDnana 
GDogDanDanannDDann 
DanDDnannnnannnnDD 
naagnDnnacanDnnoDa 
nanannann QnaaDnnnD 
DaaDaannnnannDnnan 
DDagnaanDnnanDnnDa 
DnanaananaDnonnnna 
naaa JnnnDnnnnnDDCin 
nnngaannanaDannaaa 
onaaaannnnDDnanDDn 
nagggnnaanuDaDnDDD 
DDagnnonn DDananann 
ODcaDannnnDDaDDDDn 
DGanannnnnnnDBDnDn 
nnananGDnnnnoDoDDn 
nannaBnnGDDDnDDQDn 
nnDDnannGnnni naaun 
naaannnnannnaDnBDa 
□nDDnDDGnnnnaDBDDn 
DanaDDnannDananana 
DDaDnannnnonDnanan 
naaaDDnnnnnonDnann 
nannanaanannGPDnna 
nmnnanaannnnoDDDn 
nnnnnDDnnnnDDonnan 
nDannDDnnnnnDDGnDa 
naannnnnnnnnnDaDaa 
DnnnnanDaDoanDaDna 
□nnannnnnDDnaDDDan 
DDaaDDnDDDaaaanDaB 



aa 
aa 

DH 

na 



aa 

■H 

aa 

na 

. aa 

c D" 

d □■ 
- aa 

^ aa-i' 

bfl Sa .• 

h BO ft, 

cu Da 



Chain Draft. 

GGaaaBaaaaDBGBGBGB - 

aaaaaaaaGGaGBaBaBa - 

aBGaaaGaaaGaaaDBBB 

aaaaaaaaaaacBGflGBa 

aBaaaaGBaaGaGBGaBB 

BaaaaGaGaaaGaGBGaa 

GaaaaBGiGBGacBGaaa 

saaaaaaa aGBGBGacBB 

aaaaaaaa DaaaGBCBaa ■ 

aaaaaaGanGBGacBGBG • 

GaaaaaaaGaGBaBBBBa 

BGaaaaaaBaaGBaaBBB 

GBGaaaGaa aaaaaB BBB 

BaBGaaagaaBGaGBBBB 

GBGBaaaiaaGBGBBBta 

BaflGaaaGBGBGaaaBaa 

GaaaaaaaaGGBGaGBDa • 

aaaaaGaaaaaaaaBCBD ■ 

GBaaaBGaGBGaaaaBaa 

BaBGaGBGBDBGBBBBBB 

aBGaaaaaa BGBBBBBaa 

BaBGaaBGaGBCBBBBBB 

GaGaaaJBGaGBBBBaaa 
aaaaaaBGaGaGaaBBBB 
aaaaaaaa DaDBcaCBGB • 
BaaGaaaaaDaaBcBDaa ■ 
GaaBDaaaaaBBBBBflGB 

aaaaBGBG BGBBBaBBBG 

aaGaGBiBDBBBBBiaaB 
BaBGaaaaaGBBa bbbbg 

LBaaaaaBOBBBBBBBLiB 

BaaaBGBGaaBaeaBBaG 

aGGaGaGBDBGBGBDBCa • 

naDaaaaaBGaGBDaGBG ■ 
Gaaaaaaaa aBaaanaaa 
BGaaaGaaBGaBBBBDaa 

GBaaGBGBGBaBBBDBGB 
BaBaaaBGBGBBBaBGBG 

GaGBGaaanBaaaBGBGB 
aaaGhGaa BaaBBBBaaa 
GaaaaBaBaBaacaaaDB - 
GGGaBaaainacaGBGBa- 
GaaBGBaaaaBBGBGBca 

B IBaaaaGaGBBBGBGBG 

GaaBaaaBGaaacaGBGB 
BGaaaaaGBGBaBGaGBa 
aaaaGaaaaBBBrBrBaa 

aGBaBaaGBGBaKGBGBG 

Fi^-. 5. 



114 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY., 



fering by being placed in juxtaposi- 
tion. 

THE REQUIRED LOOM. 

In selecting the kind of loom for 
weaving the above cloth, almost any 
make of loom can bo used which will 
carry 20 shafts and have the capacity 
of carrying at least 2 shuttles. 

FINISH. 
A dry finish only is required for 
this fabric and the process is as fol- 
lows: After being burled and mended 
the cloth is brushed aid steamed and 
then pressed so as to give as much lus- 
tre as possible. After being rolled, the 
cloth i? then ready for shipment. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

PURPLE. 
On a tannine and tartar emetic mor- 
dant, dye in iresh bath, 1 per cent 
methylviolet 3R. 

On tannine mordanted yarn dye 
with Vs per cent rhodamine 5G, which 
dyes a'pinlc; for a rose use 2 per cent 
color. 

SCARLET. 

3 per cent diamine scarlet, 30 per 
cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 

CHINA BLUE. 
On tannine mordanted yarn dye 1 per 
cent new methylene blue GG. 

SKY BLUE. 

3 per cent diamine sky blue, 30 per 
cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 

NAV^' BLUE. 

4 per cent diamine black B H, 30 per 
cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 

TURQUOISE BLUE. 
On a tannine mordant dye 1% per 
cent turquoise blue G. 

EMERALD GRI3EN. 
On a tannine mordant dye 2 per cent 
emerald green cryst. 

LIGlTT BROWN. 
% per cent diamine fast yellow B, 1 
per ce-'t diamine brown B, 20 per cenc 
Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 
BROWN. 
2 per cent tetrazo brown R, 1 per 
cent tetrazo brown G G, 30 per cent 
Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 
RED. 
4 per cent benzo fast red 4 B S, 30 
per cent Gauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 
HELIOTROPE. 
2 per cent tetrazo lilac R, SO per cent 
Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 



ORANGE. 

2 per cent tetrazo orange TR, 30 per 
Glauber's, 3 per cgnt sal soda. 
SLATE. 

y2 per cent diamine black B H, % 
per cent oxydiamine black A, 30 per 
cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. 

PIQDE. 

Pique is a heavy cotton material 
woven in corded or figured effects. The 
goods are used for such purposes as 



■fflDBsaBsaa^a 
GaanDBDaaDDB 
■anaaDaaaaaa 
aaaasaaaaasa 
anmaamnamaam 
aaaaaaaacaua 
BfflaaDaasaaDa 
anaDDaDDanna 
aonannannaaa 

Fig. 2. 

ladies' so-called tailor-made suits,vest- 
ings, shirt fronts, cravats, bedspreads 
aid the like. 

The plainest and most common fab- 
rics of pique are those in which the 
pattern consists of straight cords ex- 
tending across the cloth in the direc- 
tion of the weft. In 

THE CONSTRUCTION 

of these fabrics both a face and a 
back warp are required and the 
cords are produced by all the back 
w?rp threads being raised at in- 
tervals of 6, 8, etc., picks over two or 
more picks of the face cloth.which has 
a tendency to draw down on the sur- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 115 

face of the fabric. The goods are al- cloths, as illustrated by the diagram 

ways woven white and no colors are Fig. 3. See dots o. 

ever used. In the lightest and cheapest grd,des. 

The face warp threads are generally neither any wadding nor back picks 

finer than the back warp threads and are used. In this case the back warp 

are in the proportion of two threads threads float on the back of the fabric, 

for the face and one thread for the except v/hen raisingover the face picks 

back. to form the cord. 



Design. 




In the diagram Fig. 1, which is a FIGURED PIQUE, 

sectional cut of a fabric woven with in the figured pique the binding of 

the design Fig. 2, the heavy black Imes the back warp threads into the face 

represent the back warp threads, and cloth is not done in straight lines as in 

it \^ill be noticed that they are raised the plain pique, but the binding nointa 

over two of the face picks, represented are introduced so as to form figures 

^^ml^\^°^^^^ *^i"^f ^•^^ . ""^'^ese fabrics are woven 'in the white 

The heavy dots (.) represent the and the figures are purely the result 

back picks, which interlace with the of binding the face and back cloths 

Drawing-in-Draft. 

QdaddQanncnnDanDnnnDannDDnaDnDnDanaDDDnaDnnnnnaDnnnnBa 
DanaaGDaaaaanDoanDnnnDDnnnnDDanDnDDDDDnanDDDDnaDDBDnGn 
naDnn-inanaaaDnDnDnDaDDannDnunDDDDDDDnDuaDnDnnnBnnDnaDa 
DanaziannanDanaananannaaDaannDDannnnDaDnaanaHnnDDnnGDna 
nannnaDadJnanDaaDnDDnnnannnnDnnaDnnanDnDBDDaanDDaaDDnn 
naGaaDnnnnnDaDananjnnaannnanDDannDaDDHDDnnnDnDDDaDnDnn 
anaaD^naaaDQnaaaDnDnnaannaDaDaannDBaannnaannDDODDDDaaa 
□nDanDaaDnanaanaDDDanaannnanaaDBDCDcnDnDDnDnnnnnananna 
naaanannnaDnanDnDaDDDnnDnDDaBnaannnDnnnnnaDnDDDDDnDanD 
DDnaaDannDnnnaDnan nDDnnnBDaDanDnanaDDnaDDDnnnDDnDnaan 
DaonanaaDanDaDnnuDciDaDBnnDDDnDnnnnanDDDnDDDnDnDDDDDnDa 
DDanDmnDnnnnDcmnnnBannaaDannnDDnDnDonDnaDannanDDDDnna 
DanonanDnDDnnninBDnnnnnnaDaDaDaDDnnnDDananDDDDnnnnDnnD 
naaannnnonnnnBanGnDnDDDnnnnnnnnnDnnnnnnDDnDaDnannDnnaD 
□DnaJDnnDnBDnanDDnaDnDnDnDnDaDnnaaDDDnanDnnnDnanDnnDnn 
DnaDaaaBDnanDanaaanannnnnnnnnDDDDnnnnnDnnnDnDnaDDnnnDa 
DanaHaaannanaDDGnnDnnannaaDDDDnaDnDnnnnnnnnDnDnDDnDaDa 
DBmnnnnDnDnnnonnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnoDDGnannDannnDnnnnnnDDn 
DannDBnGnnnBDDnnGBnnDnnBnnnnnBnnnnDBnnnnDBnnnDnBDnnnnB 
nDDnDaDanBnnDnnBnDDonBnnDDnBDanDDBnnnnDBnunnDBnnonDBna 
DnBannDnBaDaDnBnDaanBDanoDBDnDnDBDnnDDBnnnDDBnDnnDBDnn 

BDDnDaBDDaDDBanaDDBDDnnDBauaDDBDDDDaBDDDDnBDnaDDBDDDDD 

Reeding- Plan. 

annBBaannBBBDnnBBanDaBBBnaGBBBndnBBBDnnBBBDnDBBBDDaBBB 
BBBaaaBBBaaDBBBaaDBBBaaDBBBaaaBBBDaDaBBaoDBBBaaaBBBaDa 
Fig. 5. 

back warp threads only. The fine lines together. As a result of this method 
represent the face warp threads. of binding, the cloth is characterized 
In the heavier and better grades of by the embossed appearance of the 
pique, heavy or coarse picks, called figures. In the best grades heavy- 
wadding, are used to increase the wadding picks are used and these tend 
■weight and also to give more promi- to greatly heighten the raised effect 
nence to the cord effect. They are in- of the figures. The effect produced Is 
troduced between the face and back about the same as when two light 



IW 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



cloths are laid together with wadding 
between and then stitched together on 
a sewing machine, the stitching being 
in the form of figures. 

White Marseilles bedspreads are the 
highest and most elaborate form of 
piques, and in these the pattern covers 
the entire spread. Geometrical figures, 
birds, foliage and most every conceiv- 
able manner of form are used, and all 
being embossed, the ultimate effect is 
very fine. In the example which we 
shall take, a small figure pique is 
given, with the following for the 

ANALYSIS OF THE FABRIC: 
Width of warp in reed (Mthout sel- 
vedge), 38 inches; width of fabric fin- 
ished, 36 inches; ends per inch, 100; 
ends in warp, 3,600—1,200x3 reed. 
Take-up of warp during weaving, 8 



Chain Draft. 



■■■■^fjfflumufflufflUEnfflDfflnBa 

■■■■□□□naDuDDnnODDDDDD— 
■ ■■■nBnfBnwnmn^nmrH^n^Hfe^ 



gBDBDDEBDfflGnaDDnDnnDnnn 

■■■■gannDDnnDnnDDDDDDn- 
■nBDnnnfflDSDDDnDDDDnanD 
■■■■®nran«nranranmMmmmHmM 



I ucDODDfflDfflnnnaaDnnan 

■nfflnfflnfflnmnmnmnmF^yMy 



■uuuuuutMuwuuauunnnn 
c3 ■■■■DDnrjoaonannDDDDnm 

•^ ■■■■GnnnnnnDDonnnanoDa 
■DBaaDDnnaoGonanDnnfflas— 



aBnannaaDDaannDnnDanan 
•■■■naDnDnDnnDnnnnnnaH 
'ISBaSRSRo^DDDaaanfflnfflnn- 

•■■■fflnfflnmnmnmnmr-mnmAmH 



'■■■■fflusufflD'BnfflasGEananBn 
' 2S25RRRRSHHapnnafflnfflnnD 

!252RRa°°D°aannfflafflaDDn- 

■■■■nfflnsnmnfflnmnmnmncnny^ 



'2S2!RRRR°™"°§§™§™B§ 
fiSSSSSBSSSSSSg^ySBBSBH- 

Fig. 6. 

per cent; weight of fabric, per yard, 
from loom, 9% ounces; shrinkage of 
fabric in length during finishing, 2 per 
cent; finished weight 9 ounces. 

Dressing: 3 threads in pattern. One 
thread l-30s white carded peeler 
cotton; 1 thread. 2-30s white carded 
peeler cotton; 1 thread, l-30s white 
carded peeler cotton; equals 3. 

Filling: 4 piclcs repeat of pattern, 
168 picks per inch. One pick, l-30s 
white carded peeler cotton; 1 
pick l-9s white carded peeler 
cotton; 2 picks, l-30s white carded 
peeler cotton; equals 4. 

In Fig. 4 is shoMm the full design. 

Fig. 5 illustrates the drawing-in 
draft on 22 harnesses — 4 required for 
the face warp threads and 18 for the 
back warp threads. The reeding plan 
is also given. 

Fig. 6 is the required chain draft. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 
For the plain pique a dobby loom 



having drop boxes and from 4 to 16 
shafts only is required, but for the fig- 
ured pique a loom of more intricate 
construction is required and the 
Crompton & Knowles Loom Company 
build a loom especially adapted for 
the purpose. Their jacquard machine, 
which is of the rise and drop type, is 
especially adapted for the weaving of 
Marseilles quilts, and has features that 
dispense with the so-called "plain 
card," using only the figure card. 

FINISHING. 

These fabrics^, after being scoured 
and bleached, are hot pressed, rolled or 
folded, and are then ready for ship- 
ment. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Pique is made up in various ways 
and is constructed of yarns, the count 
of which varies from very coarse to 
very fine. The fabric which is describ- 
ed is considered as being made up of 
l-30s and 2-30s in the warp and l-30s 
and l-9s in the filling. For making this 
grade of cloth the machinery found in 
the second division of mills w^ould be 
used. I 

THE COTTON USED 

would be a good grade of "peeler," of 
about 1 5-16th inches staple. This 
cotton would be brought from the 
storehouse and each bale sampled; all 
those bales not up to sample should 
be laid one side. The bales of the 
same length of staple should be opened 
and fed to the bale breaker alternately 
from each bale in small lots at a time. 
From the bale breaker the cotton is 
carried to the bins by lattice work or 
by trunking and a blow^er and fan. The 
mixing should be allowed to stand in 
the bins as long as possible before be- 
ing used, so that the cotton will be 
free from moisture. It is at this point 
that the J 

GOOD WASTE 

from the machines up to the slub- 
ber is mixed in, the sliver being 
torn into short lengths before - being 
thrown into the mixing. The raw 
stock is put through an opener and 
either two or three processes of pick- 
ing. If three processes of picking are 
used for the intermediate picker the 
same particulars are followed as in the 
case of the finisher except where not- 
ed. 

The hopper of the opener should be 
always kept more than half full of raw 
stock, so as to feed an even sheet of 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



117 



cotton to the breaker picker. The 
speed of a porcupine beater of this ma- 
chine should be about 1,050 revolutions 
per minute. The speed of a two-bladed 
rigid type beater for the breaker pick- 
er should be 1,500 revolutions per 
minute, the fan speed being 1,400 rev- 
olutions per minute. The total weight 
of the lap at the front should be 40 
pounds, or a 16-ounce lap. If an inter- 
mediate picker is used, the laps are 
doubled four into one and the 

TOTAL WEIGHT OF THE LAP 

at the front should be 37 pounds, or 
a 13-ounce lap. These laps are put up 
at the finisher picker and doubled four 
into one. At this point the cut rov- 
ing waste is mixed in, in the propor- 
tion of one lap of waste to three laps 
of raw stock. The speed of the beater 
should be about 1,450 revolutions per 
minute, which gives tne cotton passing 
through the machine about 42 beats or 
blows per inch. The total weight of 
the lap at the front should be 35 
pounds, or a 12%-ounce lap. Look out 
for your fan drafts to see that they 
are properly regulated so as to obtain 
an even lap. The laps are then put 
up at the card. 

THE CARD 

should have a draft of not more than 
100. The count of wire fillet used 
should be medium, the wire for the 
tops and doffer beiing one number finer 
than for the cylinder. The card should 
be ground at least once a month and 
should be stripped three times a day. 
The flats should make one complete 
revolution every 50 minutes. Use a 
large doffer, either 26 or 27 inches in 
diameter. The weight of the sliver 
should be 65 grains per yard, the pro- 
duction for a week of 60 hours being 
750 pounds. The sliver is put through 
three processes of drawing frames, the 
speed of the front roll being 350 revo- 
lutions per minute. The doublings are 
6 into 1. The draft of the first inter- 
mediate is about 5.5, the second 5.75, 
and the third 5.75; the sliver weigh- 
ing at the front of the finisher about 
72 grains per yard. The sliver is then 
put up at the slubber and made into .50 
hank roving. This roving is then put 
through 

TWO PROCESSES OF FLY FRAMES, 

the hank roving at the first interme- 
diate being 2.00 and at the second be- 
ing 7.50. This makes all the roving for 
this cloth, except for the 9s. This is 
made from a 2.00 hank roving. The 
roving for warp yarns is taken to the 



spinning room and made into 30s yarn. 
From here it is spooled and part of it 
twisted into 2-30s yarn, after which it 
is warped and slashed. The filling 
yarn may eitter be mule or ring spun. 
We will consider this yarn to be ring 
spun. The particulars to use for No. 
30s would be as follows: Gauge of 
frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring,l% 
inches; length of traverse, 6 inches; 
speed of spindle, 8,300 revolutions per 
minute; to spin 9s use 1%-inch di- 
ameter ring, 7-inch traverse, and a 
spindle speed of 6,200 revolutions per 
minute. Part of the 30s yarn is twisted 
into 2-30s. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

PEARL. 

Dye in the jigger dyeing machine 
with 15 gallons liquor, 50 pounds 
weight of goods,175 degrees F.,one-half 
pound of soda ash, one-half pound sul- 
phide sodium, 1 pound common salt, 3 
ounces immedial black V ex., 1 ounce 
immedial brown B. Run the goods for 
40 minutes; add in two portions the 
dyestuffs; rinse and aftertreat with % 
per cent bichromate potash, % per 
cent sulphate copper, at 170 degrees 
F., and rinse well. Give a weak soap- 
ing if required. 

CREAM. 

Dye with the same proportions as for 
pearl, and in the same way, with one- 
half ounce immedial yellow D, one 
ounce immedial cutch G. 

BUFF. 

Dye with same proportions as pearl, 
with 6 ounces immedial bronze A. 

LIGHT SLATE. 

Dye with same proportions as pearl, 
6 ounces immedial black V. 

DRAB. 

As light slate; 2 ounces immedial 
black V; 6 ounces immedial bronze A. 

LIGHT BROWN. 

On the jigger,as pearl; 3 per cent im- 
medial cutch G, 3 per cent sodium sul- 
phide, 3 per cent soda ash, 15 per cent 
common salt. 

LIGHT OLIVE DRAB. 

Dye as pearl; one-half pound pyro- 

gene yellow M; 14 ounces pyrogene 
olive iST; 4 ounces pyrogene cutch 2G; 
aftertreat as pearl. 



118 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



MADRAS GINGHAM, 



Madras gingham is distinctly a shirt- 
ing fabric and is an article of fine qual- 
ity. Zephyr gingham is a dress ging- 
hana and is lighter and of softer finish 
than the madras gingham. 

Madras gingham is distinguished 
from the common gingham by the fine- 
ness of the texture and the richness of 
the patterns employed. In the com- 
mon gingham the plain weave is chiefly 
used and the patterns consist only of 
stripes and checks formed by contrast- 
ing colors — principally white with 
some other color — and is chiefly made 
on roller looms. 

The Fabric. 



1 
1 






11 

i .S.=,>K„ 




-*«l 



Fi£ 



In the madras ginghams 

VARIOUS WEAVES ARE USED 
in combination with the plain weave 
which is always used for the ground, 
while very often leno weaves are in- 
troduced for ornamentation. 

The number of colors used in con- 
junction with white often reaches as 
high as flve and six in a single pattern, 
while printed yarns are extensively 
used with fine effect. 

Fig. 1 is a very neat illustration of a 
madras gingham in a leno stripe effect. 
The chief features of this pattern are 
the leno diamond stripe on a back- 
ground of old rose, and the heavy cords 
of white and of tan. The blue stripe 
between the white cords is also a 
prominent feature. 

ANALYSIS OF THE FABRIC. 

Width of warp in reed (selvedge in- 
cluded), 29% inches; width of fabric, 
finished, 28 inches; size of reed re- 



quired, 1,600 — ends per dent, 2 and 3; 
ends in warp, 2,616. 

Take-up of warp during weaving as 
follows: l-50s plain weave, 1% per 
cent; 3-50s cords, per cent; 3-50s leno 
whip threads, 50 per cent. 

Number of beams required, 3 (on 
account of the various take-ups). 
Weight of fabric per yard from loom, 
1% ounces. 

Shrinkage of fabric in length during 
finishing, 2 per cent. Finished weight, 
1.92 ounces. 

Pattern for beaming: 

136 threads per pattern. 

19 repeats of pattern in warp. 

X 4 threads l-50s white cotton. 
1 thread 3-50s white cotton. 
X 2 threads l-50s tan cotton. 
1 thread 3-50s white cotton. 

X 10 threads l-50s white cotton. 

* 1 thread 3-50 white cotton. 

X 6 threads l-50s fr. blue cotton. 

* 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. 
X 8 threads l-50s white cotton. 

2 threads l-50s fr. blue cotton as 1. 
X 8 threads l-50s white cotton. 

* 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. 

X 6 threads l-50s fr. blue cotton. 

* 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. 
X 10 threads l-50s' white cotton. 
1 thread 3-50s white cotton. 
X 2 threads l-50s tan cotton. 
1 thread 3-50s white cotton. 
X 6 threads l-50s white cotton. 
1 thread 3-50s white cotton. 
X 2 threads l-50s tan cotton. 

1 thread 3-50s white cotton. 

X 10 threads l-50s white cotton. 
X 2 threads l-50s fr. blue cotton. 

* 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. 
X 2 threads l-50s fr. blue cotton. 

* 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. 

X 2 threads l-50s fr. blue cotton. 

X 8 threads l-50s white cotton. 

2 threads l-50s fr. blue cotton as 1. 

X 8 threads l-50s white cotton. 

X 2 threads l-50s fr. blue cotton. 

* 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. 

X 2 threads l-50s fr. blue cotton. 

* 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. 

X 2 threads l-50s fr. blue cotton. 

X 10 threads l-50s white cotton. 

1 thread 3-50s white cotton. 

X 2 threads l-50s tan cotton. 

1 thread 3-50s white cotton. 

X 2 threads l-50s white cotton. 



Total 136 threads. 

Put threads marked x on bottom 
beam. 

Put threads marked on middle 
beam. 

Put threads marked * on top beam. 

l-50s cotton must be well sized. 

Number of threads of each color In 




A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY, 






V m 






A- 






«i 




aiJ.iJ.s 



'iWi%^ 



IK■:■^•^XJS 



fe 



119 



DM 

■a 



. Bin 
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aj DM 



3 ■Sf'H 



■D 



120 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



pattern: l-50s white, 84; l-50s tan, 28; 
1-50S fr. blue, 8; 3-50s white, 16; total, 
136. 

Number of threads of each color in 
warp: l-50s white, 1,628; l-50s tan, 
532; l-SOs fr. blue, 152; 3-50s white, 
304: total. 2,616. 

Filling: 72 picks per inch; all white 
l-60s cotton. 

The full design is illustrated at Fig. 
2, and is complete on 136 warp threads 
and 12 picks. The drawing-in draft is 
illustrated at Fig. 3, and is complete 
on 7 harnesses and 2 doup shafts. 

Fig. 4 is the reeding plan. 

Fig. 5 is the harness chain draft for 
12 bars. 

THE LOOM REQUIRED. 

Ordinarily to produce a leno fabric 
like the madras cloth above analyzed 
a close shed loom is required, and with 
the harnesses raising and lowering at 
every pick it necessarily requires a 
comparatively slow speed; but the 
Crompton & Knowles Loom Company 
build a dobby (open shed) known 

Chain Draft 
DnBCBDBDJ a 

mmauamaaa m 

DDBDBDBDD Dg 

aaaBDBDBD ng 

-fflnBDBOBDffl D-3 

gnaDBDBDBn dM 

iSnnBDBDBnn d" 

fflfflDBDBann eb 

nnBDBDBDn n 

naDBDBDBn n 

fflDBDBnBDffi D 



pieces are put in a hydraulic press 
and submitted to a pressure of many 
tons weight. They are then labeled 
and papered and are then ready for 
shipment. 



Fis 



5. 



as the Stafford dobby, which is especial- 
ly adapted for the weaving of leno 
cloths and all descriptions of cotton 
goods that can be produced on 20 har- 
nesses, which is the limit of its capac- 
ity. This is the best loom that is on 
the market to-day for weaving these 
goods. The loom should be built with 
a 42-inch reed space and with 4x4 
boxes. 

FINISH REQUIRED. 

After these goods are received from 
the looms they must be examined care- 
fully and all spots of dirt and grease 
removed, the selvedges trimmed and all 
runners (that is, filling pulling in at 
the sides) and also bunches and large 
knots must be taken out. 

They are then run through a starch- 
ing machine and given a medium 
starching. 

They are then run through a calen- 
der, which flattens out the threads and 
removes all wrinkles and gives the 
cloth a much smoother surface, besides 
giving it an appearance of finer tex- 
ture. 

After measuring and rolling, the 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The machinery required to make the 
yarns for madras ginghams will be 
found in mills of the second division, 
although mills of the third division 
(as given in a previous lesson) also 
make this grade of yarn. 

THE COUNT OF YARN 

which we will consider in making this 
class of goods is l-50s and 3-50s for the 
warp yarns and l-60s for the filling. 
This stock is made out of a good grade 
of cotton, the staple of which is about 
1% inches to 1% inches in length. The 
cotton is brought to the picker room 
and sampled and graded by the over- 
seer in charge of the card room, al- 
though in large mills when a cotto i 
sampler is employed he also is present 
at mixing time. 

The bales of cotton are sampled and 
all those of the same length are placed 
together. After the lot is sampled, a 
few (four or five) bales are placed 
around the bale breaker and fed to 
this machine, a small lot being taken 
from each bale alternately, until all the 
cotton is gone. The bagging which 
comes around the cotton is then placed 
in a pile, where later it will be picked 
clean of all cotton and then it is placed 
with other bagging, which is sold. The 
ties which bind the bales are also sold. 

THE BALE BREAKER. 

The draft of a bale breaker is quite 
large, but as the cotton is in large 
lumps it only acts on it by pulling it 
apart so that a good deal of the draft 
is lost. • The production of a bale 
breaker is from 80,000 to 90,000 pounds 
per week. 

The cotton is conveyed by endless 
lattices from the bale breaker to the 
bins; sometimes a blower and trunks 
are used in connection with the lat- 
tices. Where one is used it has been 
found that the cotton is in better shape 
to work and does not have to be 
dried out as long in the bins. Large 
mixings should always be used for the 
reasons given in previous articles. 

At the bins the sliver waste of the 
same length and grade of cotton is 
mixed into the raw stock. As this is 
generally done by the man that col- 
lects the waste, it is always a gooj^ 
plan to watch him to see that he puts 
the waste that he has collected in it& 



' A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



121 



proper bin. The raw stock for this 
class of goods is put through a porcu- 
pine opener and 

TWO PROCESSES OF PICKING. 

Keep the hopper of the opener more 
than half full of raw stock, because by 
so doing a more even feed will \ie ob- 
tained and this will help to make an 
even yarn. The speed of the beater of 
the opener should be about 1,050 rev- 
olutions per minute. The cotton is 
passed up to the feed rolls of the 
breaker picker. There are two of these 
rolls, top and bottom, and they present 
a sheet of cotton to the beater, which 
is generally of the two-bladed variety. 
This beater has a speed of about 1,500 
revolutions per minute, and the fan a 
speed of 1,400 revolutions per minute. 
The total weight of the lap at the front 
end of the breaker picker is about 40 
pounds, or what is called a 16-ounce 
lap, meaning that each yard of lap 
weighs 16 ounces. 

The laps are taken from the breaker 
picker and put up at the finisher pick- 
er, the doubling (or number of laps 
put up) being 4 into 1. It is at this 
point that the cut roving, of the same 
length and grade, is mixed in, it hav- 
ing first been put through a special 
process, which takes out the twist, and 
also a picker, which forms into a 
lap. The proportion of cut waste used 
is one lap of cut waste to three laps of 
raw stock. The beater of the finisher 
picker makes 1,450 revolutions per 
minute. The total weight of the lap 
at the front of the finisher picker is 
about 35, or a 12i^-ounce lap for both 
warp and filling yarn. The lap is put 
up at 

THE CARD. 

The draft of this machine for this class 
of goods should not be less than 110; the 
wire fillet used on the cylinder should 
be No. 34 wire or No. 110 English 
count, and on the doffer and top 
flats No. 35 or No. 20 English 
count wire should be used. The cards 
should be ground once every three 
weeks and stripped (doffer and cylin- 
der) three times a day. The cards 
should be thoroughly cleaned twice a 
day and wiped down twice more. 

The speed of the cylinder should be 
165 revolutions per minute, the licker- 
in speed 290 revolutions per minute. 
The top flats should make one revolu- 
tion every 34 minutes. The weight of 
the sliver at the front end should be 
65 grains, and the production 600 
pounds per week of 60 hours. Use a 
larger diameter doffer, either 26 or 27 
inches. On some grades of madras 



ginghams the filling yarn is combed, 
but as we have put the cotton in this 
article through what is called fine card- 
ing we will consider that both the 
warp and filling yarns are to be only 
carded. The sliver is taken from the 
card and put through 

THREE PROCESSES OF DRAWING 

FRAMES. 
The doublings of these machines are six 
into one. The weight of the sliver at 
the finisher drawing frame is 70 grains. 
Look out to see that the top rolls are 
all properly varnished and in good re- 
pair, or are thoroughly cleaned if me- 
tallic rolls are used; see that all stop 
motions are in proper working order 
and that the help keer the machine 
running. The drawing sliver is put 
through the slubber and made into .50 
hank roving. From here it is put 
through three processes of fly frames 
and made into 10 hank for 50s count 
yarn and 12 hank for 60s yarn. In 
10-hank roving the hanks made at the 
different processes are as follows: 2 
at first intermediate, 4 hank at sec- 
ond intermediate and 10 hank at the 
jack frame. For 12 hank it is 2 hank 
at first intermediate, 4 hank at second 
intermediate and 12 hank at the jack 
frame. The roving for warp yarn is 
carried to 

THE RING SPINNING ROOM 
and spun into 50s yarn on a frame hav- 
ing the following particulars: 2% 
inches gauge of frame ; diameter of ring 
1% inches; length of traverse, 6 in- 
ches; speed of spindle, 10,000 revolu- 
tions per minute. This yarn is then 
spooled and the yarn for the plain 
weave is then warped and then put 
through a slasher. The following mix- 
ing may be used for heavy counts: 
Water, 100 gallons; potato starch, 65 
pounds; tallow, 6 pounds; Yorkshire 
gum, 3 pounds; white soap, 2 pounds; 
boil 1% hours. The 50s count yarn for 
cords and leno whip threads after be- 
ing spooled is twisted into 3-ply 50s 
varn on the twister machine. 

The 12-hank roving for filling yarn 
may either be ring spun or mule spun. 
If ring spun, use a frame having the 
following particulars: for 60s gauge of 
frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 
114 inches; length of traverse,5 Inches; 
speed of spindle, 8,000 revolutions per 
minute. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

YELLOW. 
1 per cent tetrazo chlorine yellow GG, 
30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal 



122 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



soda; aftertreat with 1/2 per cent blue- 
stone, Vz per cent chrome. 

LIGHT ORANGE. 
1 per cent tetrazo chlorine orange R, 
30 per cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal 
soda; aftertreat with V2 per cent blue- 
stone, y2 per cent chrome. 
OLD ROSE. 
% per cent tetrazo chlorine rose, 25 
per^cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda; 
aftertreat with V2 per cent bluestone, 
14 per cent chrome. 

LIGHT OLIVE. 
4 per cent pyrogene olive N, 4 per 
cent sulphide soda, 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's, 3 per cent soda ash; aftertreat 
with 1 per cent bluestone, 1 per cent 
chrome. 

LIGHT TAN. 

4 per cent pyrogene cutch 2G, 4 per 
cent sulphide soda. 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's, 3 per cent soda ash; aftertreat 
with 1 per cent bluestone, 1 per cent 
chrome. 

SKY BLUE. 

Yz per cent diamine sky blue PF, 25 
per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda; 
aftertreat with V2 per cent sulphate of 



copper. 



LILAC. 



% per cent famine brilliant blue G, 
25 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal 
soda; aftertreat: V2 per cent sulphate 
of copper. 

PEARL. 

4 ounces diamine dark blue B, 4 
ounces diamine brilliant blue G, 25 per 
cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda; af- 
tertreat: Vz per cent sulphate of cop- 
per. 

BUFF. 
2 ounces diamine catechine 3 G, 2 
ounces diamine catechine B. 25 per 
cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda; af- 
tertreat: % per cent sulphate of copp6r, 
% per cent chrome. 

LIGHT BROWN. 
10 per cent katigen yellow brown 
GG, 2 per cent katigen brown V, 10 
per cent sulphide sodium, 3 per cent 
soda ash, 30 per cent salt; aftertreat: 
4 per cent bluestone, 4 per cent 
chrome, 3 per cent acetic acid- 

DARK BROWN. 

5 per cent diamine catechine B, 4 per 
cent diamine catechine G, 30 per cent 
salt, 3 per cent sal soda; aftertreat: 3 
per cent bluestone, 3 per chrome. 

RED BROWN. 
5 per cent diamine brown M, 30 per 
cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda; af- 



tertreat: 2 per cent bluestone, 2 per 
cent chrome. 

PINK. 
V2 per cent benzo fast pink, 2 B L, 20 
per cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda. 
RED. 
6 per cent primuline, 30 per cent 
Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda; diazo- 
tize and develop with beta naphthol. 

WINE. 
As red. Diazotize and develop with 
Bordeaux developer. 

SLATE. 
2 per cent diamine jet black SS, 30 
per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda, 
aftertreat with 3 per cent chrome. 
BLACK. 
6 per cent diamine black B, 30 per 
cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda; 
diazotize and develop with phenylene 
diamine. 

SULPHUR BLACK. 
10 per cent immedial black V, 10 per 
cent sulphide sodium, 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's, 3 per cent soda ash; aftertreat: 3 
per cent chrome, 3 per cent bluestone, 
3 per cent acetic acid. 

LIGHT GREEN. 
On tannine and tartar emetic mor- 
dant. Dye: 1 per cent new methylene 
blue GG, 1 per cent thioflavine T. 
BLUE. 
On tannine and tartar emetic mor- 
dant. Dye: 2 per cent new methy- 
lene blue GG. 

INDIGO BLUE. 
10 per cent immedial indone 3 B, 
10 per cent sulphide soda, 30 per cent 
Glauber's, 3 per cent soda ash; after- 
treat: 3 per cent sulphate of copper. 
■♦ ♦ » 



ETAMINE. 



An etamine is a thin, slightly glossy 
fabric used principally for women's 
dress goods. Being a very popular ma- 
terial for summer wear, it is usually 
made in what is commonly known as a 
piece dyed fabric, that is, woven with 
undyed yarn. A good reason for mak- 
ing it a piece dyed fabric is that it is 
much cheaper than if the yarn is dyed 
previous to the weaving. Etamines 
are dyed in almost any color. Blue, 
black, red and various shades of drabs 
seem to be very popular. The inter- 
lacing of the warp and weft is on the 
one and one order, or plain weave. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



123 



See design, Fig. 1. The openness or 
transparency of the fabric is due part- 
ly to the smooth, hard-twisted yarn 
and partly to the weave. 

Etamines were originally made with 
worsted yarns, which, of course, are 
much more expensive; however, if a 
good quality of cotton is used there is 
little difference in appearance between 
worsted and cotton etamines. The dif- 
ference would be chiefly in the wearing 
quality, worsted of course being more 
durable. 

The principal feature of an etamine 
is to have it a crisp,glossy and an open 
fabric. 

ANALYSIS OF FABRIC. 

Width of warp in reed, 27% inches; 
width of fabric finished, 26 inches. 
Reeed, 600 — 2 ends per dent. 

Total ends in warp 740, including sel- 
vedge. Take-up of warp during weav- 
ing, 12 per cent. Weight of fabric 
from loom, 3 ounces per yard; weight 
of fabric, finished, 3 ounces per yard. 

No shrinkage during the finishing 
process, 

WARPING PLAN. 

1-lOs carded peeler cotton, hard 
twist, 20 turns per inch, a left-hand 
twist. 

FILLING PLAN. 

28 picks per inch finished; 28 picks 
per inch in. loom; 1-lOs carded peeler 
cotton, hard twist, 15 turns per inch, 
a left-hand twist. 

Notice that warp and weft are both 
the same twist, that is, both are a left 
twist. This is an important factor 
which cannot be ignored in making an 
open or transparent fabric. 

The warp is drawn in straight, that 
is, 1, 2, 3, 4 (see Fig. 3.), until all the 
harnesses are used; four harnesses 
would be quite enough for a fabric of 
this character; there being but 26 ends 
per inch would cause no overcrowding 
of heddles. Fig. 3 is the reeding plan. 
Fig. 4 shows the chain draft for a dob- 
by loom. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

This character of fabric could be 
woven on any roller or dobby loom, a 
roller loom being preferable, princi- 
pally on account of the comparatively 
low rate of expense the latter could be 
operated at. 

FINISH. 
Etamines, as before mentioned, are 
usually woven with undyed yarns, or 
in the gray. The cloth, after reaching 
the dyehouse, is first subjected to a 
scouring process, then dyed, after 
which it is given a medium sizing; 
then it is calendered, which in a great 



measure accentuates the gloss upon 
the fabric and also imparts to it the 
crisp feeling which characterizes an 
etamine. 

It is then measured.rolled and paper- 
ed, after which it is ready for the mer- 
chant. Cotton etamine sells from 12 
cents to 20 cents per yard. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The cloth of which the weaving par- 
ticulars have been given is some- 
times made of all cotton yarn or a 
combination of cotton and wool or cot- 
ton and linen, or a combination of 
wool, silk linen and cotton fibres. For 
the carding and spinning particulars of 
this lesson we will consider that the 
fabric is made up of cotton yarns in 
both the warp and filling. 

The count of the yarn we will con- 
sider to be 10s. 

THE YARNS 
for this class of cloth may be made 
in either the first or second division 



Full Deiiga 

Dmamamam 
mamamamo 
amamDmam 
mcmattama 
DiDBoanB 
■aaaiDBD 

Fig. 1. 



rrn-sD'^DB 

DGBDC'DBa 

D»aDnBDD 

BDnnBDDD 

Fig. 2. 



Reed Plan 

nDBB^OBB 
BBDDBBDD 

Fig. 3. 

Chain Draft 

U3ma 

DBDB 
BDBD 
DBDB 
BrBD 
DBOB 
BDBD 

Fig. 4. 



of mills, as given in a previous article. 
Generally, however, the mill of the sec- 
ond division is used. The cotton 
used would be peeler of about IVi 
inches length of staple. A number 
of bales (enough for a mixing) should 
be brought from the cotton shed and 
placed in the picker room. The over- 
seer should sample each of the bales 
and those not up to staple should be 
placed to one side. Several of the 
other bales should be placed around 
the bale breaker and a little fed to 
the breaker from each bale alternately 
This will help to produce a 

MORE EVEN MIXING, 

which will help to give a more evenly 
finished yarn. The bales that have 
been laid aside should either be used 
in a cheaper mixture or should be 
shown to the cotton broker and either 
returned or have an allowance made 
for them. The bale breaker should be 
kept on this cotton until it is all put 
through. The cotton is conveyed from 



124 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



the bale breaker to the mixing bin by 
endless lattices,which is the old meth- 
od, or by having a blower and trunking 
and an endless lattice as is the newer 
and more modern method. 

When a blower is used in conjunc- 
tion with the bale breaker the cotton 
is in a more dried out condition when 
it reaches the bin and consequently it 
does not have to stand as long to dry 
out before using. A blower will pay for 
its first cost many times over. At the 
mixing bin the good waste from all 
machines up to the slubber is mixed 
in as it is collected. The cotton is next 
fed to the opener and 

WHEN A BLOWER IS USED. 

passed through two processes of pick- 
ing when the cotton is mixed by hand. 
These processes of picking are gener- 
ally used. A three-process picking 
and an opener are given, but when two 
processes are used all that is necessary 
to do is to drop the second or interme- 
diate process and use the particulars 
of the breaker and finisher picker. A 
porcupine beater is generally used in 
connection with the opener and this 
has a speed of about 975 revolutions 
per minute. 

The cotton passes from the opener to 
the breaker picker and after passing 
the feed rolls it comes in contact with 
the beater.which is generally of a rigid 
two-bladed type, the speed of which is 
about 1,500 revolutions per minute. 
The total 

WEIGHT OP THE LAPS 
at the front of the breaker picker is 
about 40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap. 
These laps are doubled four into one at 
the intermediate picker, the beater of 
this picker making 1,450 revolutions 
per minute and the total weight of the 
lap being 37 pounds or about a 12- 
ounce lap. The doublings at the fin- 
isher picker are four into one, the 
speed of the beater 1.450 revolutions 
per minute, which gives the cotton 
passing through it 42 beats per minute. 
It is at this point that the cut rov- 
ing of peeler stock of the same length 
is mixed in, in the proportion of one 
lap of roving waste to three laps of 
good cotton. The total weight of the 
cotton lap at the front for this class 
of goods is 35 pounds or a 12i/^-ounce 
lap. The next machine through which 
the cotton passes is 

THE CARD, 
This machine for this class of goods 
has a draft of about 90. The cards 
should be stripped three times a day 
and should be ground at least once a 



month. The flats make one complete- 
revolution every 35 miautes. The pro- 
ductioa should be about 750 pounds for 
a week of 60 hours. The weight of 
the sliver at the front should be about 
65 grains. Use as large a doffer as pos- 
sible, either of a 26 or 27 inch diameter. 
The carded sliver is thei put through 
three processes of drawing, the weight 
of the sliver at each process being as 
follows: 77 grains at breaker drawing, 
76 grains at intermediate and 72 grains 
at finisher drawing, the doubling at 
each process being six into one. On 
this class of goods metallic top rolls 
may be used to good advantage. The 
sliver is next put through the slubber 
and made into .50 hank roving. The 
settings of the rolls at the slubber for 
this length of staple should be as fol- 
lows: Front roll to middle, 1% inches; 
middle roll to back, 2 inches. The cot- 
ton is then passed through 

ONE PROCESS OP PLY FRAMES 
and made into 2 hank roving. The 
roving for warp yarn is taken to the 
spinning room and made into 10s yarn. 
The following particulars are used on 
the warp frame: Gauge of spindle, 3 in.; 
diameter of ring, 2 inches; length of 
traverse, 7 inches; speed of spindles, 
8,600 revolutions per minute. The rov- 
ing for the filling yarn may be either 
mule spun or, as is generally the case, 
ring spun. 

When ring spun, use the following 
particulars for filling frame spinning: 
10s yarn, gauge of spindle, 2% inches; 
diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of 
traverse, 7 inches (because the filling 
yarn for this fabric has sufficient twist 
put in to stand this length of traverse), 
speed of spindles, 6,400 revolutions per 
minute. The warp yarn is then 
spooled, warped and run through a 
slasher. 



Dyeing Partifeulars. 

The fabric is dyed on the jig ma- 
chine. 

BLACK. 

15 per cent immedial black N N, 15 

per cent sulphide sodium, 3 per cent 

soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's salt; 

rinse well, and give a soap bath. 

BLUE. 

5 per cent immedial indone B, 5 per 
cent sulphide sodium, 2 per cent soda 
ash, 25 per cent Glauber's salt; rinse 
and top with 8 ounces methylene blue 
B, 1 pint acetic acid. 

BROWN. 

6 per cent immedial brown B, 4 per 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



125 



cent immedial yellow D, 10 per cent 
sulphide sodium, 3 per cent soda ash, 
30 per cent Glauber's salt; rinise and 
give a soap bath. 

GREEN. 
4 per cent immedial yellow D, 3 per 
cent immedial indone B, 7 per cent sul- 
phide sodium, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 
per cent Glauber's salt; rinse and give 
a soap bath. 



BATISTE. 



Batiste as the name implies, is of 
French origin, commercially under- 
stood to mean a light translucent cloth, 
made from a fine quality of combed 
cotton yarn, ranging in width from 32 
inches to 45 inches.' 

There is likewise a gradual variation 
in qualities, ranging from a compara- 
tively coarse to a very fine fabric. 

The variations of the different qual- 
ities will be more apparent when we 
consider their commercial value. It 
may be of interest to our readers to 
note the retail prices. 

Cotton batiste retails at from 12% 
cents in 32-inch widths to 50 cents in 
45-inch width per yard. 

The variety of qualities will suggest 
some idea of the utility of the fabric. 
Its uses are even more varied than are 
tihe qualities. 

The finer grades of batiste are used 
for dress goods, all kinds of lingerie 
for summer wear, pillow shams, etc., 
while the cheaper grades are extensive- 
ly used for linings in washable and 
unwashable shirtwaists. 

In this article we are confining our- 
selves to bleached cotton batiste, re- 
serving the linen and colored for some 
future discussion. 

Batiste is woven in the gray, that is, 
with yarn direct from the spinning 
frame, with the exception that the 
warp yam is well sized, in order to bet- 
ter stand the strain to which the 
yam is subjected during the weaving 
process. 

We will consider, first, a very fine 
bleached cotton batiste, of a quality 
made 45 inches in width, and then a 
very cheap grade of bleached cotton 
batiste, made 32 inches in width. 

The analysis will readily show the 
vast difference in these two qualities. 

FINE BLEACHED COTTON BATISTE 
Width of warp in leed, 47. S inches; 



finish at 45 inches; ends per inch in 
the cloth from loom, 94; ends per inch 
finished, 100; ends in warp, 4,500. 

Take-up of warp during weaving, 10 
per cent; weight of fabric per yard 
from loom. 1.15 ounces; finished 
weight, 1.4 ounces. 

The difference in weight between fab- 
ric from loom and finished fabric is 
about 20 per cent, the finished goods 
having taken on 20 per cent of sizing 
material. 

For adding weight to cloth, China 
clay is used. The proportions to use 
depend on the character of finish de- 
sired. China clay produces a gritty 
feel, which, however, may be overcome 
by the use of chloride of magnesium, 
which is a veyy powerful softener as 
well as a weighting material. 

Warping plan: body of warp, l-120s 
combed Sea Island cotton, selvage 2- 
100s cotton. 

Filling plan: 98 picks of l-200s 
combed Sea Island cotton. 

CHEAP-GRADE COTTON BATISTE. 

W^idth of warp in reed, 34 inches. 
Finish at 32 inches; ends per inch in 
cloth in the loom, 54; ends per inch 
finished, 58; ends in warp, 1,860; 54x1 
reed. 

Take-up of warp during weaving, 8 
per cent; weight of fabric per yard 
from loom, .84 ounce; finlslhed weight 
per yard, 1 ounce; 19 per cent increase 
in weight. 

Warping plan: all l-60s combed Sea 
Island cotton 

Pilling: 50 picks per inch 1-lOOs 
combed Sea Island cotton. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

Batiste could be very profitably 
woven on a Northrop magazine loom. 
The fabric is a plain weave, no dobby 
being required. The fineness of the 
yarn, however, requires the use of 
string heddles. Wire heddles would 
cause too many warp breakages. The 
high running speed of the Northrop 
loom, together with the number of 
looms a weaver can tend,10 to 20 looms, 
brings the weaving cost to a minimum. 
The warp should be drawn in on four 
harnesses, skip draw as follows: 1, 3, 2, 
4 instead of straight, as 1, 2, 3, 4. 
Skip draws give less strain to the 
warp. 

FINISH. 

Batistes are given a Swiss finish; 
after the cloth comes from the loom it 
is bleached. After the bleaching proc- 
ess it is sized, then sprinkled or damp- 
ened, and then calendered, after which 
it is folded; then it is ready for the 
market. 



126 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The division of mills which make 
"batiste" is the third of those mills 
which are equipped with machinery 
for making fine count yarns. Batiste 
is made up of extra fine counts of yarn, 
although these counts vary a great deal 
according to the grade of fabric want- 
ed. In order to do this cloth justice 
it will be better to first describe the 
processes of a coarse yarn batiste and 
then a batiste made up of fine yams. 
We will consider the coarse fabric to 
be made up of l-60s warp yarn and 
1-lOOs filling yarn. The finer grade 
we will consider made up of l-120s 
warp yarn and l-200s filling yarn. 

THE RAW STOCK 
used for both grades should be Sea 
Island cotton of from 1% to 2 inches 
staple, although 1% inches staple is 
the length generally used. The selec- 
tion of the cotton is one of the first 
and by many considered the most im- 
portant points to look out for. The lot 
should be sampled bale by bale and 
all those bales having a staple not up 
to standard should be thrown out of 
the mixing. Those bales that are se- 
lected as O. K., should be placed 
around the mixing bin and thrown in- 
to it alternately from each bale until 
all the bales for the mixing are in. At 
this point the 

GOOD SLIVER AND PICKER WASTE 
are mixed in. Care should be taken to 
see that the sliver waste is pulled apart 
iQto short lengths and that no other 
waste is thrown into the bins by mis- 
take, because a small lot of short staple 
waste can cause a great deal of trouble 
later on. Some overseers use only 
an opener and one process of picking, 
others use two processes of picking 
with the opener. It is the general cus- 
tom to use only an opener and one 
process of picking for these fine 
counts. The general instructions that 
have been given in regard to openers 
should be followed. The speed of the 
beater (rigid type) should be reduced 
so that the cotton should only receive 
29 beats per minute. The weight of 
the lap at the front end of the picker 
(when one picker is used) should not 
exceed 30 pounds and from this range 
to 25 pounds. 

A GOOD WEIGHT 
per yard for the grade of fabric under 
description is 9 ounces. The machines 
should be carefully looked into to see 
that they are all kept clean and prop- 
erly set. The laps are taken to the 
cards. At this point, as at a great 
many others, overseers differ as to the 



best means of procedure. Some use 
a large draft at the card and only one 
process of combing,and others use lower 
drafts and two processes of combing. In 
this lesson we will assume a large card 
draft and one process of combing for 
all counts of yarn in both grades of 
batiste. The speed of the licker should 
be reduced from about 350 revolutions 
per minute to 275 or 280 revolutions 
per minute. This is done by lagging 
the licker-in pulley. The wire fillet 
used on the cylinder should be No. 34 
wire (American count, or 110s English 
count), and on the doffer and top flats 
No. 36 wire, or 130s English count. 

THE FLATS 
should be speeded up to take out as 
much waste as possible. The cards 
should be stripped three times a day 
and ground so as to keep the wire 
sharp. The settings used should be 
very close and care should be taken to 
see that the cotton is not broken in 
staple at the card. A great many 
times, if the cotton is sampled at the 
front of the card, it will be found to be 
shorter than when entering. This 
may be and is generally caused by an 
improper setting of the feed plate to 
the licker-in. While this applies di- 
rectly to long staple cotton, still all 
cottons should be looked into carefully 
to avoid shortening the length of 
the staple. It is very in;portant 
to keep the cards clean so that as 
little dust and dirt will go into the 
sliver as possible, because, if this dirt 
gets past the combers, it will show up 
in the cloth, as the thread or yarn is 
so small. The 

PRODUCTION FOR A CARD 
making this class of goods should not 
exceed 275 pounds per week, the 
weight of the sliver being about 30 to 
35 grains per yard. The draft for this 
class of goods should not be less than 
150. The card sliver is taken to the 
comber room and doubled 14 into 1 at 
the sliver lap, and the laps from this 
machine are taken to the ribbon lap 
machine and doubled 5 into 1. The 
weight of a yard of lap at the front of 
the ribbon lap machine should be 
about 160 grains. These laps are piTt 
up at the comber and doubled 6 into 1. 
The speed of the comber for this stock 
should not exceed 180 nips per min- 
ute. For this weight of web a double 
row of teeth in the top comb would 
give 

THE BEST RESULTS. 
Care should be taken to see that all 
needles in the top are straight and 
that the comber is absolutely free 
from dirt at all times. The table of 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



127 



the comber should be gone over twice 
a day with whitening so that the sliv- 
er being drawn over it will not stick. 
The percentage of waste taken out 
should be about 25. These processes 
will answer for all the counts except 
for the 200s, which should be double 
combed, i. e., after being put through 
the combers once should be run 
through the sliver lap machine and 
then through the combers again. After 
passing through the combers the sliv- 
er passes through two processes of 
drawing. At these machines the sliv- 
er is doubled six into one, the speed of 
the front rolls at each frame being 320 
revolutions per minute. Be sure the 
settings are proper for the staple so 
as not to "break" the staple, or too far 
apart so that uneven drawing will re- 
sult. 

THE TOP ROLLS 
should be of a little larger diameter 
than for shorter length of staple; the 
grade of skin used for the top rolls 
should be finer than that used for the 
shorter and lower grades of cotton. 
Not only is this true in regard to the 
drawing frames, but also on all ma- 
chines on which leather top rolls are 
used. Always keep these rolls in the 
best of shape and clean machines 
more often than with the lower grades 
of raw stock. The weight of sliver at 
the front is 60 grains per yard. The 
drawing sliver is put through the slub- 
ber, which makes it into .80 hank. 
This machine also uses a larger diam- 
eter top roll than is used on the lowe» 
grades. The slubber roving for 60s 
yarn is put through three processes of 
fly frames, the hank roving at the 1st 
intermediate being 2.25; at the second, 
5 hank, and at the fine frames 15 hank. 
From here it is taken to the ring spin- 
ning room and made into 60s warp 
yarn on a frame having the followiivg 
particulars: Gauge of frame, 2% 
inches; diameter of ring, 1 5-16 
inches; length of traverse, 5 inches. 

TO MAKE 100s YARN 
the slubber roving is the same, also 
the hank roving at the first and second 
intermediates. The hank roving at the 
fine frame is 20. This yarn for filling 
is taken to the mule spinning room; 
for warp yarn used in the finer grade 
of batiste is sometimes spun in the 
mule room and sometimes in the ring 
spinning room. When spun on the 
ring frame, use the following partic- 
ulars for a warp frame: Gauge of 
frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 
1% inches; length of traverse, 5 inches. 
For making 200s yarn the final yarn 
is spun single at the mule; if spun 



double, the frames and hank roving at 
each would be as follows: Slubber, .80; 
first intermediate. 2.25; second inter- 
mediate, 5; roving, 20, and jack 30 
hank. This would be taken to the mule 
room and spun into 200s yarn. The 
warp yarn for both grades of fabric 
would be spooled and warped and run 
through a slasher. 

A GOOD MIXING 

for 60s yarn is as follows: Water, 100 
gallons; potato starch, 54 pounds; 
Yorkshire gum, 2 pounds; soap, li/^ 
pounds. A good sizing mixture for the 
100s would be as follows: Water, 100 
gallons; potato starch, 70 pounds; tal- 
low, 7 pounds; Yorkshire gum, 3 
pounds; soap, 2 pounds. Boil two 
hours and let stand 10 hours before 
using; keep agitator running and keep 
size almost at boiling point. For sel- 
vedge, the 100s yarn would have to be 
doubled into 2-ply 100s in addition to 
the other processes. 



Bleaching, Dyeing and FInisliing Par- 
ticulars. 

These goods are bleached in the or- 
dinary way, great care being taken to 
keep the goods from damage. 

The pieces are boiled in caustic soda 
at 4 degrees Tw. for ten hours, rinsed 
well in water, and boiled again with 
4 deg^rees Tw. caustic soda, rinsed, 
and soured with % degree Tw. of oil 
of vitriol, rinsed and passed through a 
solution of chloride of lime at i^ degree 
Tw. soured with i^ degree Tw. oil of 
vitriol, and well rinsed, until all acid 
is washed out. 

The goods are then dried, and 
starched through a mangle with 8-12 
ounces best white German dextrine to 
one gallon of water, starch to be well 
boiled one hour before using. 

The pieces are dried on a tenter 
frame at full width, care being taken 
to keep the warp and filling straight. 

COLORS. 

If colors are required they are light 
blues, pinks and other light tints (Jyed 
in the mangle or on the jig. 

LIGHT PINK. 

For 10 50-yard pieces, 12 gallons 
water; % ounce to 2 ounces Brika 
pink; 20 pounds Glauber's; 3 pounds 
sal soda. 

LIGHT BLUE. 

Dye as pink with Vz to 1 ounce tetra- 
zo brilliant blue 6B. 



128 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



LIGHT SLATE. 
2 ounces diamine black B H, dye as 
pink. 

RED. 
1-2 pounds benzo fast red 4B, dye as 
pink. 

YELLOW. 
Dye as pink. 8 ounces chrysophe- 
nine. 

ORANGE. 
Dye as pink. 1 pound Mikado orange 
B. 

SCARLET. 
Dye as pink. 1 pound diamine scar- 
let B. 

LIGHT WINE. 
Dye as pink. 1 pound diamine Bor- 
deaux B. 

LIGHT AMBER BROWN. 
4 ounces diamine catechine G; 4 
ounces diamine fast yellow B, dye as 
pink. 

TOBACCO BROWN. 
Yz pound diamine brown B; 2 ounces 
diamine fast yellow B, dye as pink. 
LIGHT TAN. 
Dye as pink. 4 ounces diamine 
bronze G; 2 ounces diamine fast yel- 
low B. 

LIGHT GREEN. 
Dye as pink. 10 ounces diamine 
green G; 5 ounces diamine fast yellow 
B. Top with fresh bath; 6 ounces 
brilliant green G. 

BLACK. 
Dye on jig. 15 per cent immedial 
black N N; 15 per cent sulphide soda; 
3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent 
Glauber's salt. 



ITALIAN CLOTH. 



Italian cloth is a light, glossy fabric 
made from cotton and worsted, cotton 
and wool, cotton and mohair and all 
cotton. 

We will here consider the all-cotton 
fabric. Italian cloth is very common- 
ly understood to mean a satin fabric, 
by some known as Farmer's satin. 
ITS CHIEF USE. 

It is used chiefly for linings 
for the heavier styles of ladies' 
dresses, also for underskirts, or for the 
garment itself, instead of merely as a 
lining; when used for such, it is usu- 
ally in solid black. It is also used for 
shirtwaistings, fancy pillow backs and 



so forth, for these purposes usually 
in fancy colors. 

The cloth is woven "in the gray" 
— undyed yams. In the finer grades 
the warp is sized so as to facilitate the 



DDDBODnnBDnncBn 
nBDDnnBnaDDBDDD 

DDDDBDDDDBDDDaB 

DDHDnDDBCaDDHDn 
■nDDDBDDDDBDDDn 

DDDHDnDDBDDi ,ama 
umaaoarnDDDDmcaa 
nnoamaaaomDDDam 
aaBDDDDBDnDDBnn 
■DaaDHDaDCHDDna 

LIDaHDOGDHGDDDBa 

DBaDDDBDDnnBDna 

□aDDBDDunBGDDDB 

CDHDannHnaDDBDa 

■□CDDHDDDDBDDDG 



FiE 



DnDnaDDDnHnnnaDDnonB 
DDDaanDDBaDnunnnDnHa 

nDDDDDDBDDDDDDDDDBDa 

naaaaamaaaoaDnaamaan 

DDnDDHDDDnDDDDDIIDana 

DDaaBDDnnnDDnDHnnnan 
onDUDDaDnDDDDDiGnDnnn 

CnHDDDDnDDnDBaDnDDDn 

DBaaDnonDnnBDDDDDDnn 
■naDDaDnnDBunnnaDDna 

Fig. 2. 

nDDBBBDaDBBBDnn 
■■■aDDIBHaODMB 

Fig. 3. 



weaving process. - The fabric under 
consideration is a five-harness satin 
weave. The satin weave, technically 
called "satin." is ' one of the three 
foundation weaves. The object of a 
satin weave is to get a smooth-face 
fabric. 

In plain twill weaves every pick in- 
terlaces with the warp in the same 
manner, but each successive pick com- 
mences as it were one end farther to 
the right or left, according to the di- 
rection of the twill. This will bind 
the cloth in a regular order. 

In satin weaves 

THE INTERLACING 
is arranged differently; the intersec- 
tions of warp and weft are distributed 
as evenly as possible over the surface 
of the fabric. 

The smallest and most common form 
of satin is the five-harness satin. The 
order of intersections is 1, 3, 5, 2, 4. 
(See Fig. 1.) 

ANALYSIS OF FABRIC. 

Width of warp in reed, 38 inches; 
width of fabric, finished, 36 inches; 
ends per inch in reed, 96; ends 
per inch, finished, 102; ends in 
warp, 3,700; 32 dent reed per 
inch — 3 ends per dent. Take-up 
of warp during weaving is 5 per cent; 
weight of fabric, per yard, from loom, 
is four ounces. 

Owing to the pressure the fabric is 
subjected to in the finishing, it 
stretches slightly in length; conse- 
quently the cloth should be lighter per 
yard, finished, than the cloth from 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



129 



Hoom. The difference, however, is 
made up by the sizing materials, al- 
though it is given but a very light siz- 
ing. 

The cloth per yard finished is prac- 
tically of the same weight as the cloth 
per yard from loom. 

Warp: All l-40s cotton, left twist. 

Filling: All l-45s cotton, left twist. 

130 picks per inch. 

Fig. 1 shows three repeats of the 
■design; the weave as mentioned above 
is a five-harness satin, weft face, with 
the direction of the twill running to 
the right. 

The fabric in question has a very 
smooth face, which is due in a great 
measure to the direction of the twill 
being opposite to the direction of twist 
of yarn. 

Fig. 2 shows drawing-in draft. The 
warp is drawn on ten harnesses, 
straight draw — five harnesses would be 
enough; tea harnesses are used so as 
not to overcrowd the heddles. 

Fig. 3 shows reeding plan. 

The warp is reeded 3 ends in one 
dent. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

This character of fabric could be 
woven on any loom where ten har- 
nesses could be operated without dif- 
ficulty. The loom should have a fair- 
ly high running speed. 
FINISH. 

This fabric, as before mentioned, is 
woven with undyed yarns. After it 
comes from the loom it is boiled off, 
then dyed,after which it is subjected to 
a light sizing. For a light sizing it is 
not necessary to use anything but 
wheat flour, farina and a small quanti- 
ty of softening material, usually tallow 
or wax. 

After the cloth is sized it is run 
through the calender with the rolls 
well heated, the glossy face of the fab- 
ric being obtained by the heated rolls. 
The cloth, after the calendering.is fold- 
ed, after which it is ready for the mar- 
ket. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Italian cloth is made in mills of the 
second division as given in a previous 
lesson. The class of cloth may be 
made up of several grades and lengths 
of raw stock, but for this article we 
will consider that the cotton is of a 
fair grade, the staple being about 1% 
inches in length. The cotton is all 
sampled before being put through this 
bale breaker, several bales being 
placed around this machine, the 
cotton being fed alternately from 



each bale until all the cot- 
ton is gone. The bagging which cov- 
ers these bales i& thrown into a pile 
and is again picked over in order to 
clean all the fibre from the bagging. 
This is generally done by the yard 
hands on rainy days. 

THE BEST METHOD 
of conveying the cotton to the mixing 
bins is by a blower and endless lat- 
tices. When a blower is used, the 
cotton arrives at the mixing bins in a 
more open state and works up much 
better. At the mixing bin the good 
waste cotton from all the machines up 
to the slubber is mixed in. The cot- 
ton is fed to the hopper of the open- 
er which should always be kept half 
full and from here is passed on to the 
feed rolls of the breaker picker. For 
this class of goods some overseers use 
two and some use three processes of 
picking. It is the general plan of up- 
to-date mills to use two processes with 
an opener. After passing the feed 
rolls of the breaker picker the cotton 
comes under the 

ACTION OF THE BEATER. 
If this is of a rigid two-bladed type 
(which is the one most generally used) 
the speed should be about 1,500 i-evo- 
lutions per minute. The total weight 
of the lap at the front of the breaker 
picker is 40 pounds or about 16 ounces 
to the yard. These laps are taken 
and put up at the finisher picker and 
doubled four into one. The roving 
waste is mixed in at this point in the 
proportion of three laps of good cot- 
ton to one lap of bobbin or roving 
waste. The roving waste is put 
through a special picker that takes 
out the twist and delivers it in a light, 
fluffy state. This is taken and spread 
evenly on the apron of a picker and 
made into a lap, the weight of which 
corresponds to the weight of the laps 
of the same kind being put up at the 
back of the finisher picker. The speed 
of the beater (two-bladed rigid type) 
for this class of work is about 1,400 
revolutions per minute. This gives 
the cotton passing through 42 lieats 
per inch. The total 

WEIGHT OF THE LAP 
at the front of the finisher should be 
about 35 pounds, a variation of % 
pound being allowed from standard. 
If the weight is more than 14 pound, 
the laps should be run over again, i. e., 
placed at the back of the finisher and 
run through with three other laps. If 
there is a great variation in the laps, 
the machine should be looked into to 
see what is the cause. For slight va- 



130 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



riations in weight there are adjust- 
ments to quickly remedy the defects. 
The lap at the front for this class of 
goods should weigh 12 14 ounces to the 
yard. The laps are put up at the 
card and the draft of this machine 
should not be less than 100. Medium 
card fillet wire should be used on both 
the cylinder, doffer and flats, the 
wire on the doffer and flats being one 
point finer than that used on the cyl- 
inder. The speed of the cylinder 
should be about 165 revolutions per 
minute; speed of licker-in, about 350 
revolutions per minute; the speed of 
the top flats, 1 complete revolution 
every 50 minutes. 

THE CARDS 
should be stripped 3 times a day and 
ground surely once a month. At the 
time of grinding, the card wires should 
be all straightened out and all reset 
properly. Light grinding should al- 
ways be used. The weight of the 
sliver at the front should be about 65 
grains per yard. The production for 
a week of 60 hours (allowing 10 per 
cent of time for cleaning, stoppage, 
etc.) is about 700 pounds. The cot- 
ton sliver is then passed on to the 
drawing frames and through three 
processes of these machines. The 
drawing frames may be either 
equipped with metallic or leather cov- 
ered top rolls, the speed of the front 
roll at each process being about 400 
revolutions per minute. See that the 
drawing frame bottom rolls are prop- 
erly set, a good setting for this stock 
being as follows: From centre of 
front roll to centre of second roll, IVz 
inches; second roll to third roll. 1% 
inches; third roll to back roll, 1% 
inches. 

The weight of sliver at the front of 
the finisher drawing frame should be 
72 grains, the doubling at each proc- 
ess being six into one. 

AT THE SLUBBER 
the sliver is drawn into .50 hank rov- 
ing. From here it passes through 
three processes of fly frames, the hank 
roving being as follows: First inter-, 
mediate, 1.50 hank; second interme- 
diate, 4.00, and fine frame 10.00 hank. 
At the fly frame icok cut for the top 
leather covered rolls. These should 
always be in the best of shape. Put 
just enough twist into the roving so 
that it will not break back at the suc- 
ceeding process. Remember, every 
extra turn of twist given the roving 
lessens the production. On the 
other hand, do not get the roving too 
slack twisted, for then loss of produc- 
tion, as well as poor work, will result 



in consequence of the roving breaking 
back. The warp roving is then takem 
to 

THE SPINNING ROOM 

and spun into 40s yarn on a frame 
having the following particulars: 
Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter 
of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 
QYz inches; speed of spindle, 10,000 
revolutions per minute. The roving 
for the filling yarn may be taken to 
either the ring spinning or the mule 
room, where it is spun into 45s yam. 
If taken to the ring spinning room,, 
use a frame of following particulars: 
Gauge of rame, 2% inches; diameter 
of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 
51^ inches; speed of spindles, 8,806 
revolutions per minute. The warp 
yarn is then spooled and warped and 
run through a slasher. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

The pieces are boiled out for dark 
shades, and bleached white for light 
shades and tints. 

The dyeing is done on a jig machine. 

PINK. 

8 ounces diamine rose G D, 20 pounds- 
Glauber's, 1 pound sal soda. All the 
dyeings are for 10-12 gallons water 
and 10 pieces, 50 yards. 

SALMON. 

4 ounces diamine orange B, 1 ounce- 
diamine scarlet B, 15 pounds Glauber's, 
1 pound sal soda. 

LIGHT BUFF. 

4 ounces diamine catechine G, 1 
ounce diamine fast yellow B, 15 pounds- 
Glauber's, 1 pound sal soda. 

LIGHT SLATE. 

4 ounces diamine black B H, 15 
pounds Glauber's, 1 pound sal soda. 

LIGHT GRAY. 

One-half pound diamine gray G, 15. 
pounds Glauber's, 1 pound sal soda. 

LIGHT BROWN. 

One-half pound diamine catechine G, 
y2 pound diamine brown B, 2 ounces 
diamine fast yellow A, 20 pounds, 
Glauber's, 1 pound sal soda. 

RED. 

3 pounds diamine fast red F, 30" 
pounds Glauber's, 2 pounds sfl soda. 

SKY BLUE. 
2 pounds diamine sky blue F F, 30 
pounds Glauber's, 2 pounds sal Soda. 



A COTTON FABRICS QLOSSARY. 



131 



SLATE. 

1 pound immedial black N B, 4 
ounces immedial olive B, 1 pound sul- 
phide of sodium, 20 pounds Glauber's, 
Vz pound soda ash. 

PEARL. 

2 ounces immedial black N R T, % 
pound sulphide sodium, 10 pounds 
Glauber's, 6 ounces soda ash. 

BLACK. 
15 pounds immedial black N N, 15 
pounds sulphide sodium, 30 pounds 
Glauber's, 3 pounds sal soda. 

NAVY BLUE. 

2 pounds immedial indone 3B, 2 
pounds immedial indone R, 5 pounds 
sulphide sodium, 30 pounds Glauber's, 
3 pounds sal soda. 

NIGHT GREEN. 

3 pounds brilliant benzo green B, 30 
pounds Glauber's, 3 pounds sal soda. 

HELIOTROPE. 

1 pound heliotrope B B, 25 pounds 
Glauber's, 2 pounds sal soda. 

WINE. 
3 pounds tetrazo corinth G, 30 
pounds Glauber's, 3 pounds sal soda. 

OLD GOLD. 

2 pounds diamine fast yellow A, 1^/4 
pounds diamine brown 3G, 30 pounds 
Glauber's, 3 pounds sal soda. 

FINISHING. 

Cotton Italians are finished with a 
calender finish, passed through a cot- 
ton rolled calender, to get a good fin- 
ish, and then softened down, with a 
light beetling on a beetling machine, or 
finished altogether on a beetling ma- 
chine. 

They are also given a hot press finish 
on the hydraulic press with hot press 
plates and papers, to imitate the worst- 
ed Italians. 



Beetling Process for Finishing. 

The beetling process for finishing 
cotton and linen piece goods is one of 
the oldest finishes in the bleaching 
and dyeing trades. 

It was first invented in the linen 
bleacheries of the north of Ireland in 
the Belfast district. The first beet- 
ling machines were very crude affairs 
compared with the machines now in 
service. 

The beam on which the cloth was 
wound was a large tree trunk turned 
down and smoothed, which was set 
in motion with a handle. The part of 
the machine which lifted the fallers 



was also turned by hand. The prin- 
ciple of a finish by a beetling machine 
is simply an improvement on the old 
mangle, to smooth the cloth, and fill in 
the spaces between the threads, mak- 
ing the cloth more opaque, and show- 
ing the ordinary linen finish. A good 
beetle finish is also a permanent fin- 
ish and will stand sponging and iron- 
ing. 

THE NEW BEETLES 
are made entirely of iron, except the 
fallers, which are wooden. The cloth 
is wound on the iron cylinder or beam, 
which revolves about 40 times a min- 
ute; the fallers are lifted by cams and 
fall of their own weight, about 16 
inches on the cloth, from 40 to 50 
times a minute. The cloth receives by 
this process a tremendous hammering, 
and where 10 or more machines are to- 
gether the noise is simply deafening. 
Goods made of half linen and half 
cotton can be finished to look like all 
linen goods, and in some goods made 
of all cotton the finish makes the 
pieces exactly like a piece of linen, 
and even 

AN EXPERT MAY BE DECEIVED 
thereby. Some goods are heavily 
starched and dryed, then sprinkled, 
put on the beetles, and hammered for 
four or five days, being sprinkled and 
turned occasionally. The beetles are 
run night and day with two crews. In 
Ireland, where labor is cheap and 
water power is used, the finish is not 
very expensive, although the process 
is very long, as the goods are often on 
the beetles for six days. Where 
steam power only is used, the finish is 
almost prohibitory and as a very large 
and expensive plant is required to 
turn out a large amount of goods, not 
many plants of any great capacity 
have been erected in this country. 

The largest beetling works are 
those of the Macnab Co., Hurlet, Pais- 
ley, Scotland. There are about 100 
sections of beetles there, and some 
very fine work is turned out. 

A GOOD FINISH 
is obtained on silesias by first passing 
the goods through a calender and then 
giving a few hours on the beetle. 
Mather and Piatt, of Manchester, have 
a patent beetle with spring hammers 
instead of fallers. This machine is 
said to be good for some finishes, but 
many prefer the old wooden faller ma- 
chine. Any width of cloth can be fin- 
ished on the beetle. Holland shades 
of over 100 inches in width are 
handled with ease, and the width of 
the cloth is always increased during 
the process of beetle finish. 



132 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



CHEESECLOTH, 



This is a thin cotton fabric of light 
weight 'and low counts of yarn, which 
for cheapness ranks among the first 
in cotton fabrics. 

The fact that it is a cheap fabric has 
much to do with its popularity, in so 
far that it is used for innumerable pur- 
poses; chief among which we may 
mention that it is used for wrapping 
cheeses and butter after they are 
pressed, for these purposes only the 
bleached fabric being used. It is also 
much in demand for bunting for fes- 
tal occasions, for light curtains, mas- 
querade dresses, etc. When used for 
buntings, draperies and the like, it is 
usually in colors. Red, blue, cream and 
yellow bunting seem to have the 
greatest demand. 

In the sample which will now be 
considered, the cheesecloth is of a fair 
quality; the weave is a one and one, or 
plain weave; there is very little variety 
in the designing. 

THE CHIEF OBJECT 
of the designer in constructing a fabric 
of this character is to find the least 
number of ends and picks per inch re^ 
quired, so that the fabric will not slip 
too easily; that is, if the cloth is taken 
between the thumb and first finger of 
each hand, and the thumbs drawn 
away from each other over the surface 
of the fabric and first fingers, the ends, 
if pulling in the direction of the filling, 
will not leave their proper places too 
easily, or, if pulling in the direction of 
the warp, the picks or filling will not 
give too easily. 

This tendency to slip is entirely due 
to the lack of material necessary to 
produce a perfect or firm cloth. 
A PERFECT CLOTH 
may be defined as a cloth in which 
the wai-p or weft yarns are equal in 
diameter and the spaces between the 
threads are equal to the diameter of 
the yarn. 

For instance, let us construct a per- 
fer.t cloth with l-36s cotton yam for 
both warp and filling. By squaring 
tne coimts we find the diameter of 
yarn to be l-165th part of an inch; 
that is, 165 threads of l-36s will lie 
side by side in one inch, and by sub- 
tnac'ting one-half of the 165 to allow 
for the space required for the inter- 
lacing with the weft we have 82 ends 
and 82 picks necessary for one inch of 
cloth. 

In the sample in question there is 



omlA' about half the number necessary 
to make perfect or firm cloth. 

ANALYSIS OF FABRIC. 

Width of warp in reed, 38 inches; 
width of fabric finished, 36 inches. 

Ends per inch in reed, 42; ends per 
inch in finished cloth, 45. 

Picks per inch in loom, 42; picks per 
inch, finished, 42; ends in warp, 1,620, 

Reed, 750x2. 

TaKe-up of warp during weaving, 6 
per cent; weight of cloth, per yard, 
from loom, 1.7 ounces; finished weight 
per yard, practically the same. 

Warp, all l-36s cotton carded peeler; 
filling, all l-36s cotton carded peeler. 



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Fig 2. 



Fia; 1. ' 

Fig. 1, design. 

Fig. 2, drawing-in draft. 
LOOM REQUIRED. 

The retail price of cheesecloth, 5c. 
to 8c. per yard, requires that it be wov- 
en on a high running speed loom. The 
Northrop loom would be about the 
best, running at about 200 picks per 
minute. If the warps are properly sized 
a weaver can take care of 10 to 16 
looms. 

FINISH. 

Cheesecloth is given very little 
finish. After it comes from the loom, 
it passes to the dyehouse, where it is 
bleached or dyed as the case may be; 
the cloth is dyed in a gig dyeing ma- 
chine* After the dyeing it is passed 
through a rotary press with cylinder 
slightly heated, after which it is folded 
and is then ready for the market. 



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Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns of which cheesecloth are 
made up would be made in mills 
having an equipment of machinery for 
making coarse or medium grade 
yarns. There are several kinds and 
grades of cotton used for the manu- 
facture of this cloth and the count of 
yarn varies, TDut not to such a varia- 
tion as has been the case with the 
cloths that have been described in 
late articles. For this article it will 
be considered that the cotton is made 
up of a medium grade of cotton of 1^/4 
inches length of staple and that the 
count of the yarn for both warp 
and filling is 36s. The cotton is fed 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSiSARY. 



133 



to the bale breaker (if the mill con- 
tains one) or the bales are placed, 
around the mixing bin and mixed by 
hand. 

THE HAND MIXING 
does not give as uniform a mixing as 
the bale breaker, and when the mixing 
is done by hand it ought to stand long- 
er before being used, so that it will 
dry out thoroughly. For this class of 
goods three processes of picking and an 
opener are used. The good waste 
cotton is mixed direct into the bin 
with the raw stock as it is collected. 
The cotton is then fed to the opener, 
which is generally supplied with a 
porcupine opener, and this should re- 
volve at about 1,050 revolutions per 
minute. From the opener the cotton 
is conveyed by an endless apron to 
teed rolls of the breaker picker, which 
condense the fluffy mass into a sheet 
and offer it to the beater. The beat- 
er of this machine and also of the in- 
termediate and finisher pickers is gen- 
erally of the rigid, two-bladed type. 
The breaker picker makes 1,500 revo- 
lutions per minute, the total weight of 
the lap at the front being 40 pounds, 
or 16 ounces per yard. These laps are 
put up at the intermediate picker and 

DOUBLED FOUR INTO ONE. 
The beater of this machine should 
make about 1,450 revolutions per min- 
ute, the total weight of a lap at the 
front being 37 pounds, or 12 ounces to 
the yard. The laps are put up at the 
finisher picker and douDled four into 
one, the beater making 1,450 revolu- 
tions per minute, and the total weight 
of the lap at the front end being 35 
pounds or 12% ounces to yard of lap. 
Keep the draught of the pickers on the 
top cage as this will help to prevent 
splitting of laps; also see that the fly 
is not allowed to accumulate to any 
great extent under the ma,chines. 
There should always be a supply of 
laps ahead, in case of a breakdown. 
Always use old laps flrst and not the 
newly made ones. The laps are car- 
ried to the card. The draught of this 
machine for this class of work should 
not exceed 100. The top flats should 
make one complete revolution every 50 
minutes. Cards should be set for 
coarse work, using No. 33 wire on 
cylinder fillet, and No. 34 wire on dof- 
fer and top flats. Use a 26 or 27 inch 
cuameter doffer. 

THE SLIVER 
should weigh 65 grains per yard, and 
the production for a week of 60 hours 
should be 750 pounds. The sliver is 
put through three processes of drawing. 
It would be of great advantage to use 



metallic rolls. The doublings at each 
process are six into one. The drawing 
sliver is put through the slubber and 
made into .50 hank roving. This 
roving passes through two processes of 
fly frames. At the flrst intermediate 
the hank roving is 1.56, at the second 
intermediate this is made into 3.75 
hank, and at the fly frame 7.50. At the 
fly frame watch tlie leather top rolls. 
The bottom steel rolls should be taken 
•out and scoured at least once a year. 
The hank roving is then taken to the 
ring spinning room or the roving for 
the filling may be taken to the mule 
room and made into 36s yarn. If taken 
to 

THE SPINNING ROOM, 

use a frame having the following par- 
ticulars (for 36s filling): Gauge of 
frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 
1% inches; length of traverse, 6% 
inches; speed of spindles, 10,200 revo- 
lutions per minute. For warp yarns 
(36s), use 2% inches gauge of frame; 
1% inches diameter of ring, and 5% 
inches length of traverse, with spin- 
dles running at 8,900 revolutions per 
minute. The warp yarn is then 
spooled, warped and run through a 
slasher. 

Dyeing Particulars. 

Cheesecloth is dyed on the gig ma- 
chine, or in the starch mangle during 
the starching process. 

PINK. 
For 10 gallons liquor, 3 pounds 8 
ounces cornstarch or dextrine. 4-6 
ounces Erika pink, 2 pounds Glauber's, 
1 pound sal soda. 

YELLOW. 

As pink; 1 pound chrysophenine. 

ROYAL BLUE. 
As pink; 2 pounds alum, no sal soda, 
1 pound Victoria blue B. 
SCARLET. 

As pink; 2 pounds diamine scarlet 
B. 

RED. 

As pink; 3 pounds benzo purpurine 
4B. 

LIGHT SLATE. 
As pink; 8 ounces diamine black 
B H, 1 ounce diajmine fast yellow B. 
BROWN. 
As pink; 2 pounds benzo fast orange 
S, 2 pounds chrysophenine, % pound 
benzo fast black. 

HELIOTROPE. 
As pink; 1 pound benzo fast violet 
R, 4 ounces benzo fast blue B N. 



134 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



VELVETEEN. 



Velveteens, also termed fustians and 
velverets, are heavy cotton fabrics in 
which the distinguishing effect is 
formed by the points of the fibres in 
the filling yarns, termed the pile, be- 
ing presented to the vision, and not 







the sides of the yarns as in the ma- 
jority of fabrics. 

They are principally used for dress 
and hat trimmings, suitings, and up- 
holstery, having exceptional wearing 
qualities and showing a full, deep col- 
or. 

Corduroys are sometimes termed 
velveteens, the same principle of con- 



accomplish this the goods are made 
with a comparatively small number of 
ends and large number of picks per 
inch, ranging from 50 to 76 ends and 
150 to 600 picks. One warp only is 
used. 

A fairly heavy loom is necessary. 

Figures 1 and 2 illustrate two meth- 
ods of arranging the whip rolls and 
yarn when weaving some of the heav- 
ier picked goods. In each figure A 




n&.x 

represents the warp beam and B the 
whip rolls. The dotted line indicates 
the direction of the yarn. 

Standard widths for velveteens are 
19 inches, 22 1^ inches, 24 ^^ inches and 
2714 inches or 28 inches. For the lat- 
ter width the warp is spread about 
33^ inches in the loom. The weights 
for 2S-inch goods vary from one to 




flO.4-. 




•I*. 5 



struction being adopted in both fab- 
rics, but a corduroy is distinguished 
by having a corded stripe effect run- 
ning lengthways of the piece, the di- 
viding line between each stripe show- 
ing both warp and filling. 

In the simplest type of velveteens 
the pile filling, after being cut, hides 
the warp entirely from the face. To 



three and one-half yards per pound. 

The goods are usually woven two or 
more widths in the loom, with split 
selvedges. 

In order that the fabric may remain 
firm after the pile picks are cut, 
ground or binder picks are inserted 
regularly, working either plain or twHl 
as may be desired. The filling for 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



135 



these picks is similar to that used for 
the pile, only one shuttle being used. 

Figure 3 is a design for a velveteen, 
arranged one ground and three pile 
picks, the ground weave being plain. 
The drawing-in draft is straight on 6 
harnesses, 1 to 6. The selvedges are 
woven with a selvedge motion. 

The ends are reeded 2 in each dent. 

The chain draft is similar to the 
■weave. Fig. 3. 

Six ends and eight picks repeat. 

Figure 4 shows a sectional view of 
the cloth before being cut. Figure 5 
shows the same with the pile cut. Let- 
tered circles in these figures corre- 
spond to ends, and numbered lines to 
picks, in Figure 3. 

An analysis of two fabrics woven 
with design. Figure 3, shows the fol- 
lowing: 

Sample No. 1: 76 ends and 192 
picks per inch; 2Ss warp and 40s fill- 
ing; width 23 inches; weight 4.35 
yards per pound. 

This is a velveteen of poor quality. 

Sample No. 2 is of a good quality. 
It contains 76 ends and 375 picks per 



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inch, 2-ply 60s warp and 55s filling, 
and the weight is 3.35 yards per 
pound. 

Some velveteens are sold by weight, 
similar to men's wear fabrics, so many 
ounces per yard. 

Another standard fabric woven with 
design Figure 3 is as follows: 74 
ends, 260 picks, 2-ply 70s warp, 60s fill- 
ing. 

Figure 6 shows a design with a 3- 
end twill ground, arranged one ground 
and three pile picks. The drawing-in 
draft is straight, reed draft, 2 ends 
per dent, chain draft same as weave, 
repeated to 18 picks. Selvedges extra. 

Figure 7 shows a design for what is 
termed a fast back velveteen, arranged 
one ground and four pile picks. When 
each pile pick is tied under two ends, 
as in this example, the effect is not so 
good as when tied only once, but the 
wearing qualities are improved. 

In the preceding examples it will 
be seen that the pile filling is bound 
only on every other end. 

Figure 8 illustrates a design in 
which the pile is bound in on every 
end. This type makes a firm texture 
but does not admit of a large number 



of picks, therefore the pile cannot be 
made very full. 

PURPOSES. 

For dress and trimming purposes 
velveteens are usually of a solid col- 
or, being piece dyed. 

For upholstery purposes the goods 
are dyed, printed, embossed or 
stamped. Panel and stripe patterns 
are also made by cutting a raised fig- 
ure on an uncut ground, or vice versa, 
by painting or by the pyrogravure 
process, burning. 

When 

STAMPING 

velveteens the goods are passed be- 
tween two cylinders. The upper cylin- 
der is of iron and is heated from the 
inside. The pattern is engraved or 
sunk into this. The lower cylinder is 
of hard wood. The pile is compressed 
by the projecting part of the upper cyl- 
inder, causing the pattern to stand 
out in relief from a dull ground, ov 
vice versa. 

PAINTING ON VELVETEENS 
is essentially a hand process. The col- 
ors have to be free from oil that they 
may not spread beyond the limits in- 
tended. 

In the pyrogravure process of mak- 
ing patterns on velveteens, the sketch 
is first made and placed in a panto- 
graph machine. With a platinum 
stylus heated to redness the operator 
then burns out the pile along the lines 
traced, leaving a very ciear pattern. 

From the time a velveteen leaves 
the loom to the time it is ready for 
cutting, it has to be passed through 
several processes. It is first put 
through a 

BACK STARCHING AND DRYING 
MACHINE. 

After drying, the better grades are 
raised on the under side to make a 
softer feeling cloth. The lower qual- 
ities are not raised on account of the 
tendency for the process to weaken 
the cloth. 

The goods are then, while under ten- 
sion, saturated with a weak milk of 
lime, the solution being brushed into 
them on the face side. 

The next process is drying. This is 
done by a device in which rods are au- 
tomatically inserted below the fabric, 
so that the latter hangs down in loops. 

After drying, the cloth is folded and 
passed to the brushing machine. This 
machine removes the lime and loosens 
the filling floats so that the knife can 
readily enter beneath them. 

The cutting process proper now 



136 



A COTTON FABRIOS GLOSSARY. 



takes place, being done either by ma- 
chinery or by hand. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The fabric for which the oardimg and 
spinning particulars are given below 
is made up in several grades. For this 
article only two grades will be con- 
sidered, a coarse one having a warp of 
1-28S and l-40s filling; and a fine 
grade, the warp yam of which is 2-70s 
and with a filling of 2-60s yarn. This 
fabric, all grades, would be made either 
in the second or ihird division of mills 
ajs given in a previous lesson. We will 
consider 

THE COARSER GRADE 
first. This would be made from a me- 
dium grade 1 5-l(J inch staple cotton 
and run through the bale breaker with 
blower and endless lattice connections, 
so that it will reach the mixing bins 
in a dry, open state. When feeding 
the bale breaker do not feed one entire 
lap before starting on another,but open 
several laps around the bale breaker 
and feed from each bale alternately. 
The mixing should be 

AS LARGE AS POSSIBLE, 
so that there will be less variation in 
the yam than when smjall mixings are 
used. The good waste from the ma- 
chines up to the slubber is mixed in- 
to the bin as it is collected. The cotton 
is next put through an opener and 
either 2 or 3 processes of pickers. It is 
the general custom nowadays to use 2 
processes, but the particulars for three 
processes will be given. If one process 
is left out, use particulars given for 
breaker and finisher pickers. Feed the 
Hopper of the opener so that it is al- 
ways more than half full, because the 
more cotton there is in the hopper the 
more cotton will be taken up by the 
spiked apron and thus a more even 
sheet will be presented to the beater, 
which is generally of a porcupine type 
and is speeded up to 1,000 revolutions 
per minute. The speed of the beater 
at the breaker picker is 1,500 revolu- 
tions per minute. The total weight 
of laps at the front of this machine is 
40 pounds or a 16-ounoe lap. These 
laps are 

DOUBLED POUR INTO ONE 

at the intermediate. At this machine 
the speed of the beater is 1,450 revolu- 
tions per minute. The total weight of 
the lap at the front is 37 pounds or a 
10-ounoe lap. These laps are doubled 
four into one at th© finisher picker, the 
total weight of a lap at the front be- 
ing 39 pounds or liVz ounce lap. The 



speed of this beater is 1,450 revolutions- 
per minute, which gives the cotton 
passing through it 42 blows or beats 
per inch. Each lap, as it is taken from 
the front of the finisher picker, should 
be weighed and all those laps ranging 
over a half a pound from the standard, 
either way (light or heavy), should be 
run over again. The 

CUT ROVING WASTE 

is mixed in at the back of the finisher 
picker in proportion of one lap of rov- 
ing waste to three laps of raw stock. 
The cut roving waste has to go 
through a special process to take out 
twist and from here it is put through 
a picker which forms it into a lap, 
then it is mixed with the raw stock as 
above. From the picker the laps are 
taken to the card. The draft of this 
machine should be about 110. The set- 
tings sihould be medium and the wire 
fillet used would be No. 35 fbr doffer 
and flats and No. 34 for cylinder. The 
speed of the top flats should be one 
complete revolution every 40 minutes. 
The sliver at the front should weigh 
6^5 grains per yard and the produc- 
tioin for a week of 60 hours should be- 
about 800 pounds. The sliver is then 
put through 

THREE PROCESSES OF DRAWING, 
the doublings at each process being six 
into one. 

'^The speed of the front roll is 400 rev- 
olutions per minute at each process. 
The sliver should weigh about 70 
grains per yard. This is then put 
through the slubber and made into .50 
hank roving. The roving to be used 
for 28s yarn is put through two proc- 
esses of fly frames, the hank roving at 
the first intermediate being 2 and at 
the second being 6. This is then 
taken to the ring spinning room and 
made into 28s yarn on a warp frame 
having the following particulars: 
(jauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter 
of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 
6% inches; speed of spindles, 9,700 rev- 
olutions per minute. From here it is 
passed through the spooler, which takes 
the yarn from the cop and winds it 
onto a spool. From here it is wound 
onto a beam and several of these 
beams are put up at the ends and run 
through the slasher and wound on to 
a beam at the front, which has the re- 
quired number of ends required for the 
warp of the fabric. 

THE SLUBBER ROVING 
for filling yam is put through three 
processes of fly frames, the hank rov- 
ing 1.50 at the first intermediate. 4 



A COTTON FABRICS aLOSSARY. 



137 



bank at the second and 8 hank at the 
last frame. This roving for filling may- 
be taken to either the mule room or 
the ring spinning room to be made in- 
to 40s. We will consider it to be taken 
to the ring spinning room and spun 
on a frame having the following par- 
ticulars: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; 
diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of 
traverse, 5% inches. 

FOR THE FINER GRADES 
of velveteen the foregoiing general 
particulars may be used, but substitut- 
ing the following for 60s and 70s yam: 
Use iy2 inches staple cotton; at the 
pickers the total weight of lap at the 
frtont is 40 pounds or 16-ounoe lap at 
the beater and 35 pounds or 12-ounce 
lap at finisher, no intermediate picker 
being used. At the card the top flats 
should make one complete revolution 
every 40 minutes, the weight of sliver 
aJt front being 65 grains and produc- 
tion about 500 pounds per week. 

THE DRAFT 
should not be less than 120. Sometimes 
the filling yarn is combed, but we will 
consider this yarn to be carded and so 
it will be put through three pirocesses 
of drawing. At the slubber the sliver 
is drawn into .55 hank roving and for 
both warp and filling is put through 
three pirocesses of fiy frames, the hank 
roving being as follows: To make 70s 
yam: first intermediate. 1.50 hank; 
second, 4 hank; and jack frames, 14 
hank. To make 60s yarn: first inter- 
mediate, 1.50; second, 4 hank; and fine, 
12 hank. The 14 hank roving is taken 
and spun into 70s yarn on a 

WARP SPINNING FRAME 
fitted up as follows: Gauge of frame 2% 
inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; 
speed of spiindles, 10,000 revolutions per 
minute; length of traverse 5i/^ inches. 
From here it is spooled, then twisted 
into 2-ply and spooled again, wajrped 
and put through the slasher. The 12 
roving to be made into 60s 3^iarn may 
be taken either to the mule room or 
the ring spinning room. If taken to 
the ring frame, use a frame having the 
following: Gauge of frame 2% inches; 
diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of 
traverse, 5 inches. The yam is then 
twisted into 2-60s. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

Velveteen is dyed on the jigger ma- 
chine in 15 gallons of liquor at 175 de- 
grees F.; for 30 pounds of goods, one- 
half pound soda ash, one-quarter pound 
sulphide sodlium, 1 pound salt; boil up 
tne liquor, add the soda, sodium sul- 



phdde ^nd salt before adding the dye- 
^tn'ff, sabraiin through a piece of calico 
into taie jigger. 

The goods are run for 30 to GO min- 
utes; rinse well in water after dyeing. 

ECRU. 
4 ounces immeddal bronze A, after- 
treat with % per cent bichrome, ^z per 
cent sulphate copper. 

LIGHT SLATE. 
4 ounces immedial black V, after- 
treat V2 per cent bichrome, 14 per cent 
sulphate copper. 

PEARL. 

IVz ounces immedlial black V, IVz 
ounces immedial brown B, aftertreat as 
slaie. 

PAWN DRAB. 
12 ounces immedial bronze A, 2 
ounces immedial brown B. 

LIGHT BROWN. 

1 pound immedial brown B, 4 ounces 
immedial cutch O, 1 poiund siulphide so- 
dium. 

MEDIUM BROWN. 
14 pound immedial yellow D, 1 pound 
immedial brown B, % pound immedial 
cutch O, 1% pounds sulphide sodium. 
DARK BROWN. 
20 pounds salt, l^ pound soda ash, 5 
pounds sulphide, % pound immedial 
black N R T sodium, 8 pounds imme- 
dial brown B. 

NAVY BLUE. 
Dye as ecru with 2 pounds immedial 
blue C, 2 pounds sodium sulphide, % 
pound soda ash, 10 pounds salt; rinse 
and top with methylene blue N, and 
shade' with methyl violet B. 
BLACK. 

2 pounds immedial black V, 2 pounds 
sodium sulphide, Yz pound soda ash, 10 
pounds salt; rinse and top with a one- 
dip black, or paint with Prussian blue. 

INDIGO BLUE. 

For 30 pounds goods in jigger, 1 
to 5 pounds pyrogene indigo, 1 to 5 
pounds sodium sulphide, 1 to 2 pounds 
soda ash, 5 to 15 pounds salt, Vo to 1 
pint mineral oil; rinse and soap, top 
with methylene blue. 

A large number of one dip colors 
are also dyed on velveteens, from light 
to dark shades. Although the, colors are 
not so fast as sulphur colors, they are 
suflBciently f^st for some trades. 

After dyeing, the goods are topped 
with bajsic colors, as methyl violet with 
methylene blue, Bismarck brown and 
other bright colors. 

For 30 pounds of goods, 3 pounds di- 



138 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



amme green, 20 pounds salt, 1 pound 
sal soda; top with Malachite green. 

SULPHUR GREEN, 

2 pounds immedial indone B B, 1 
pound immedial yellow D, 2 pounlds 
sulphide soda, 1 pound soda ash, 10 
pounds salt. Rinse and top with 
brilliant green or Malachite green. 



tion and a race in the other piece 
when returning. Assuming that a 



VELVETEEN CUTTING. 



Velveteen cutting is one of the proc- 
esses Incident to making cloth that is 
still, to a considerable extent, done by 
hand for practical purposes, although 
machines are now in constant use for 
accomplishing the same results. 

The object of cutting is to present 
to the vision the points, instead of the 
sides, of the fibres in the filling. 

Fig. 1 illustrates the type of knife 
used when the cutting is done by 
hand. The guide A is inserted in a 
race of the cloth, and raises the fill- 
ing to the cutting edge B as it is 
forced along. 

The cutting is generally done with 
the blade of the knife held in a verti- 
cal position, so as to cut the filling in 
the centre of the float. 

A STRIPE EFFECT 

is obtained, either inteationally or un- 
intentionally, by varying the position of 
the knife to the left, centre or right, 
if two or three positions are held 
while cutting the same piece. Instead 
of cutting with the knife inclined first 
one way and then the other, to right 
and left, when making stripes with an 
ordinary weave, knives with two 
blades are sometimes used to make 
both cuts at once, one blade being a 
little shorter than the other. 
There are 

TWO METHODS 

of cutting velveteens by hand: (a) the 
long-frame method; (b) the short- 
frame method. In both these the cloth 
is first stretched over rollers to a suit- 
able tension. 

In long-frame cutting, two pieces are 
getierally arranged parallel to each 
other, about 10 or 12 yards long, with 
room enougih for the cutter to pass be- 
tween. The cutter cuts one race in 
one piece when walking in one direc- 




24-inch velvet with 900 races is re- 
quired to be cut, the cutter will have 
to walk 900xl0,which equals 9,000 yds.. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



139 



or over 5 miles to cut 10 yards. This il- 
lustrates how laborious the hand cut- 
ting process is. 

IN SHORT-FRAME CUTTING, 
about two yards of cloth are cut before 
a change is made. Here the cutter, 
with a peculiar swing of the body, 
forces the knife to the ead of the two 
yards. 

Considerable skill is required m a 
good cutter, as a wrong movement is 
liable to damage the piece, either by 



tained by hand cutting, the blades be- 
ing inserted below the filling so as to 
force the points of the filling upwards 
as they are cut. The disc cutters cut 
the filling from the top of the cloth 
downwards, the resulting pile being 
inferior to that cut by the blades. 

BLADE CUTTERS 
are of two kinds, single and multiple. 
The former have so far given the most 
satisfactory results on account of the 
difficultv of keeping the several blades 




running the knife through it or by cut- 
ting at the side instead of the centre of 

The amount of seconds in velveteens 
is very large, there being many of 
them made after they leave the loom, 
as well as during the process of weav- 
ing. The least imperfection in weav- 
ing will cause trouble in cutting. 
TWO KINDS OF MACHINES. 

Machines for cuttiag velveteens are 
of two kinds, blade cutters, and disc 
or circular cutters. The blade cutters 
most nearly approach the results at- 



in a multiple machi ;e in perfect align- 
ment with each other. 

The blades are similar to those used 
when cutting by hand, except that 
they are smaller. 

With a single blade one race is cut 
at a time, either in lengths of 12 yards 
or the entire piece, aid it is necessary 
to repeat the operation ftor each race 
i.i the cloth. The 

BLADE MACHINES PROPER 
are of two kinds, those in which the 
k ives are stationary, the full length 
of cloth being passed through in an 



140 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



endless form, and those in which the 
cloth is stationary, stretched on a long 
table, and the knives have a horizon- 
tal movement. 

Both of these types of machines are 
fitted with either mechanical or elec- 
trical stop motions, which cause them 
to stop immediately a knife jumps out 



Figs. 2 and o illustrate a continuous 
cutting machine with four knives. 

Cloth cut by a machine of this type 
is claimed to be of a superior quality, 
because there is no necessity to take 
the knives out every few yards, as is 
the case in hand cutting. 

In addition to tne regTilar tension de- 




Fii 



or meets with an obstruction when 
cutting, or when the end of the race 
is reached. 

Machine cutters require the 
CONSTANT ATTENTION 
of a skilled mechanic to keep them 
in proper condition. If they are are 
not kept sharp and exactly to gauge, 
the pile will appear stripey, due to 
uneven cutting. 



vices for holding the piece tight, there 
are special plates arranged for hold- 
ing and supporting the fabric imme- 
diately under the race being cut. The 
mechanism is so arranged that the 
knives, plates, etc., are all moved si- 
multaneously, after each cut. 

THE KNIVES 
are mounted on hinged arms in such 
a manner that they lie upon the fab- 



A COTTON FABRICS OLOSSARY. 



11-1 



ric as it is fed forward, and so con- 
tinuously cut it. The mounting of 
the knives is of such a character that 
in the event of an accident, the worst 
that can happen is the puncture of the 
fabric, but the hole so made is only a 
small one, as the knife is instantly re- 
leased and the machine stopped. 

When the end of a race is reached 
the knives are readjusted and another 
set of races cut. 

The 

DISC CUTTING MACHINES 

are fitted with cutting discs of steel 
plate, accurately gauged and well- 
sharpened, mounted on a shaft, run- 
ning at a speed of about 3,000 revolu- 
tions per minute. They are sharpened 
automatically, while the machine is in 
motion. The number of these cutters 
depends on the number of races to be 
cut. 

The discs run inside small iron tri- 
angles, which serve as guides. These 
guides are placed in the races of the 
cloth by hand, and the piece is cut as 
it is drawn forward by the machine. 

The 

PRODUCTION OF A DISC CUTTER 

is much greater than that of a blade 
cutter. 

The disc maOhine effects quite a 
saving in cutting corduroys, these fab- 
rics not having as many races as vel- 
veteens. 

Devices for cutting the pile filling 
during the process of weaving have 
been tried, but have not met with suc- 
cess. One objection to this method is 
that the goods cannot be finished sat- 
isfactorily, the pile pulling out, if 
handled too severely. 



12 inches and are about 1-SOOth of an 
inch in diameter. 

The wool after it comes from the 
sheep is sorted both for quality and 



BRILLIANTINE. 

Brilliantine is a dress fabric, re- 
sembling alpaca, but of superior quali- 
ty and sometimes finished on both 
sides. Brilliantines are made with a 
cotton warp and lustre worsted filling. 
Lustre wool is grown in Indiana and 
Kentucky and is commonly known in 
the trade as braid wool. 

Lustre wools are more extensively 
grown in England. The best qualities 
are grown in Lincolnshire. The fibres 
of Lincolnshire lustre range from 8 to 






Fig. 1. 

lustre and the higher the degree of 
lustre the more adaptable it is for 
fancy shades, while the dull or semi- 
lustre is only used for dark colors. 



DaaaHDaHBaDaaDHDDDDaaaaHaBBDGaDaB 
aDBaaaDBaaaDDaaoaDaaBaaaDBaaanDaaDaa 
BBBaaaBBaajaaaaaaDBBBaaDBBBBaDwDaBaa 
BBBaLjaBBBaDDDaBaBBBaBuaoBBaaaaaaBaBB 
BaaaaaBBaaaaaaDBBaBaaauBBaaDGDaaQBBB 
BaaaniBaDGDajaaaBBBBDaaaBBDaaauaaBaBa 
GaDDaaaDaaaaaBaBaaaoaDaaaDCiaaa-BaaBB 

GGGaaGGGflBBGGaaBBGGGGGBGGGBBBGGBaBBa 
GGGaGGBBBaGGaBBaaaGGGBGaBBBBGaBBBBGa 

GGaGaaaaaGGGaaBGGGGuaGaaaaaiijGGaaaGGa 
aBGaaaaBaaaaBBgaGaGBGaBBBaGGGBBBGaaD 
■GBB«BBGGaa««qgQaa||a«aBaBaGuaBaQGQGD 

■■■■■■GGaGBBGggaBUGJBBBBGaDGBBQGGGBB 
aUBBBGaGGGBGGGBBBaaBBBBQaaGaBGnGBHBa 
BBBBGGGGGB GBBB BGGBBBBGGGGDBGGBBBBGG 
BBBGGGGGBGBBBflBGGGBBBGDGGGBGBBBBBGGa 
BBGGGGGBGBBBBBGGGBBBGGGGGBGBBBBBGGGD 
BGGGGGBGBBBBBGGGGbbGGGGGBGBBBBBGGGGD 
GGGGBBGBBBBBGGGGBBGGaGBBaaBBBBBGGaaB 
nGBBMGGBBBBGGGGGBGGGBBBGBBBBBBGrjGGGB 
BBBBGGBBBBGGGGGBGGBBBBGGBBB«BGGGGGBG 
BBBGGGBBBGGGaGBGBBBBBaaQBBDGGGGaGBDB 
BBGaGBBBaGGGGBaBBBBBanaBBGaGaQGaBOBB 
BGaGnBBaGGGGBaBBBBBaGGGBGGDDBBaBBBBB 
GaGaBBaaGGBBGBBBBBGGanBBGaaQBBGBBBBB 
GaGGBaaaBBBDGBBBBG'"aGGBOaGBB8aDBBBBG 
GGGBGGBBBBGaBBBBGnGanBaaBBBBGgBBBBgG 
GGBGBBBBBGGGBBBannGDBniiBBBBDggBBBgqg 
nBGBBBBBGGGBBBaGaGaBGBBBBBGggBBBagga 

BGBBBBBGGaGBBaGanDBaBBBBBgggGBBggGgg 

nBBBBBOanGBBGanGBBGBBBBBngggBBngOGBB 
GBBBBGGGGaBCGGBBBnGBBBBaagnniigDgBBBa 
BBBBGGGanBGGBBBBGGBBBBngggnBggBBBIIDn 
BBBGGGGaBGBBBBBanaBBBnGGQgBgBBBBBggD 
BBGGaaDBnBBBBBGDaBBBnQaGGBaBBPBBgagr 
BGGGnGBGBBBBBOGGGBBGGGGGBGBI 



Fig. 2. 



IBOGGai 



Brilliantines are sometimes woven 
with undyed weft yarn and very rarely 
if ever with undyed warp yarn. They 



142 



A COTTON FABRICS OLOSISARY. 



are commonly made with both warp 
and weft yarns dyed previous to weav- 
ing. The warp yarn may be the same 
color as weft or it may be entirely dif- 
ferent. If, however, a one-colored fab- 
ric is desired and it is to be made with 
undyed weft yarn, the warp yarn must 
be dyed, previous to weaving, the same 
color as the weft will be dyed after the 
fabric is woven. The warp being cot- 
ton will not take color in a wool dye 
bath. 

Fig. 1 shows sample in which both 
warp and weft are dyed previous to 
weaving. The warp is light brown 
and the weft is a medium shade of 
green. This contrast of colors in con- 
nection with the weave gives the fab- 
ric 

A VERY PRETTY EFFECT. 

Any combination of colors may be 
used. A very important factor to con- 
sider in making brilliantines is the 
weave. The object is to have as much 
weft floating on the face of fabric as 
warp, and in figured brilliantines the 

DDDDODnnnnnnD^^DDDBi 

DDDGODDDDDaQDaaDBa 

DDDanDODaaDDDQGBaa 

DDDnaDDDDDDnnDBJLjn 

DDDDnDnnanDDDHDaDD 
DDDnDDaananaBDnaDD 
DDnnDaDnDDDBaaaaGa 
aDnnnnaDaaBannuaaa 
nnDDDDnnGBGnannnG^ 
DDDDnnnnBnnDDDnam 
Dnnnna^Bnaiannncim 

nnnnDBDanDDaQDDDDn 

DDnDBnGrODDnnnDnnD 

nnnBDnnn>^DnnannoGO 
DDB DD-imnnommnn 

D■0□^^Da^'^^^^^"l^DD 

Fig. 3. 

figure must in all cases be a weft float- 
ing figure. The reason for this is ob- 
vious when a lustrous fabric is de- 
sired. 

The design in Fig. 2, of which two 
repeats are shown, both warp way and 
filling way, shows the filling to float 
on the face of the fabric in exact pro- 
portions to the float of warp. 

Very pretty effects are obtained with 
a plain ground weave with a small 
jacquard figure, and when a very lus- 
trous fabric is wanted, the warp yarn 
is of finer counts than weft yarn. 

ANALYSIS OP FABRIC. 

Width of warp in reed (without sel- 
vedge), 42% inches; width of fabric 
finished, 40 inches; ends per inch in 
reed, 60; ends per inch finished, 64; 
ends in warp, 2,535 — light brown; 60 
ends selvedge, white (30 ends each 
side), equals 2,595. 

Reed 30x2 equals 60 ends. 

Take-up of warp during weaving 6 
per cent. Weight of fabric per yard 



from loom 5 ounces; weight of fabric 
finished practically the same. 

Body of warp 2-40s cotton dyed; sel- 
vedge 2-40s cotton undyed. 

Brilliantines, mohairs and alpacas 
are usually made with different colored 
selvedge yarn than the body of warp. 

Filling all l-30s lustre worsted, of 
about a H blood stock. 

Pig. 3 shows drawing-in draft — 
drawn in on 18 harnesses straight draw, 
pattern repeats on 18 ends and 18 picks. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 
For small figured brilliantine a 
Knowles dobby loom would be about 
the best. Large figures require a jac- 
quard loom; brilliantines usually re- 
quire only one kind of filling, conse- 
quently a box loom is not necessary, 
but in order to keep the shade of weft 
as even as possible when using dyed 
yarn, two shuttles are sometimes used 
weaving "pick and pick," 

FINISH. 

Brilliantines made with undyed weft, 
after they come from the loom, are first 
scoured, then dyed; after which they 
are run through a rotary press,of which 
the cylinder has from 50 to 60 pounds 
of steam heat. Brilliantines shrink a 
little after they come from the loom. 
The pressure to which they are sub- 
jected during the finishing process 
stretches them out to their original 
length. Those made with dyed yarns 
are given usually a dry finish, that is, 
they are simply run through the press, 
cylinder heated, after which they are 
rolled, then packed. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

In a previous article, under the head- 
ing "Carding and Spinning Par- 
ticulars," the mills were sub- 
divided into three divisions. For 
the benefit of readers, we will 
repeat how they were divided for use 
in these articles. Mills making low 
count yarns, say fi^om Is to 30s, were 
included in the first division, those 
making medium count yarns, or from 
30 to 70s, were included in the second, 
and the third division comprised mills 
making yarns from 70s up. This does 
not mean that only the yarns between 
the counts given are made in one di- 
vision, but that the greater portion of 
the counts of yarn made in the divi- 
sions referred to are between the 
counts given. Ine 

COUNT OF COTTON YARN 

used for brilliantine for this article is 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



143 



2-40s. The filling yarn is lustre 
worsted yarn and therefore we will 
only deal with the cotton warp yarn. 
This class of yarns is made in the 
second division of mills, the cotton 
used being of a medium grade and hav- 
ing a staple of about 1 3-16 inches. 
The equipment for the second divi- 
sion of mills may call for a bale break- 
er or not. We will consider that one is 
included. The bales of cotton are 
stapled and several placed around and 
fed to the bale breaker alternately 
from each bale until all are gone. The 
bale breaker has a capacity of about 
80,000 pounds per week of 60 hours. 
The cotton is carried by endless mov- 
ing aprons so arranged that they may 
be moved so as to allow the cotton to 
be dropped into its proper bin. The 
bins should be as large as possible so 
as to allow 

A LARGE MIXING. 
At this point the sliver waste from the 
machines up to the slubber is mixed 
with the raw stock. The cut roving 
waste of the same length and grade of 
staple is not mixed at this place, but 
has to go through a special picking 
machine, which takes out the twist, 
then it is put through a picker and 
made into a lap, after which it is 
mixed with the raw stock, as will be 
shown later. The equipment for this 
division may include two or three 
processes of pickers. We will consid- 
er that it contains an opener and three 
processes of picking. 

THE BEATER 
used is generally of the porcupine pat- 
tern and the speed should be about 
1,000 revolutions per minute for this 
class of work. The opener is gener- 
ally attached to the breaker picker and 
after passing the beater of the opener 
the cotton is passed to the feed rolls 
by a moving endless apron. At this 
point the cotton is in an open, fluffy 
state. The feed rolls condense the cot- 
ton, as it passes between the rolls, 
into a sheet, and in this state it is pre- 
sented to the beater of the breaker 
picker. This beater is generally of a 
rigid, two-bladed type and for the cot- 
ton in question has a speed of 1,500 
revolutions per minute. The cotton is 
then blown on to a set of cages and 
compressed into a sheet, after which it 
passes through several sets of calen- 
der rolls between which it is further 
pressed. The total weight of the lap 
at the front is 40 pounds or about 16 
ounces to the yard. These laps are 
put uTi at the back of the intermediate 
picker and 



DOUBLED FOUR INTO ONE. 

The speed of this beater is about 1,- 
450 revolutions per minute. The total 
weight of the lap at the front is 37 
pounds or a 10-ounce lap. These laps 
are put up at the finisher picker and 
doubled four into one. It is at this 
point that the cut roving waste before 
spoken of is mixed in the proportion 
of three laps of raw stock to one lap of 
roving or bobbin waste. The speed of 
this beater is about 1,450 revolutions 
per minute, which gives the cotton 
passing it about 42 beats or blows per 
minute. The total weight of the lap 
at the front of this picker is 39 pounds 
or about a 14-ounce lap. These laps 
are then taken to the card, the draft of 
which for this class of work should not 
exceed 110. The fillet on the cylinder 
should be of No. 34 American wire or 
110s English count and on the doffer 
and top flats should be No. 35 wire or 
120s English count. The top flats 
should make one complete revolution 
every 45 minutes. 

THE CARDS 

should be stripped (both cylinder and 
doffer) three times a day and ground 
at least once a month. The cards 
should be reset after every grinding in 
all parts, except the top flats to the 
cylinder, which should be reset at 
least four times a year. The weight 
of sliver at the delivery end of the 
card should be about 65 grains per 
yard. The cotton is next put through 
three processes of drawing frames. 
Metallic rolls may be used to good ad- 
vantage on work of this description, 
the speed of the front roll at each proc- 
ess being 400 revolutions per minute. 
The weight of the sliver at the flnish- 
er drawing frame should be about 70 
grains. The cotton is next put through 
the slubber and made into .55 hank 
roving. 

The roving is then put through 

THREE PROCESSES 

of fly frames. At the first in- 
termediate it is made into 1.50 
hank roving, at the second in- 
termediate into 3 hank and at 
the jack frame into 9. This roving 
is then taken to the ring spinning 
room and spun into 40s yarn on a 
frame with the following particulars: 
Gauge of frame, 2% inches: diameter 
of ring. 1% inches; length of traverse, 
61/2 inches: twist per inch, 28.46: rev- 
olutions per minute of spindles, 10.000. 
From here it is passed to the spooler 
and then to the twister, whpre it is 
twisted into 2-40s, and then back to 



14 1 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



the spooler. From here it goes to the 
warper and from the warper the 
beams are put up at the slasher, where 
it is sized, and then it is ready for the 
weave room. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

These goods are dyed in the piece 
if solid shades are wanted, but if two- 
colored fancies are made, the warp 
and the worsted yarn are dyed in the 
yarn, woven and finished. For piece 
dyes union colors are used, or the 
wool is dyed in an acid bath, rinsed 
and the pieces are cotton dyed cold. 

For union black, 5 per cent union 
black A, 30 per cent Glauber's salt. 
Boil till wool is dyed, and run without 
steam till cotton is dyed up to shade; 
if cotton is not' dark enough add some 
cotton black. 

The union fancy colors are dyed in 
the same way. 

Wool yarn dyeing. For 100 pounds 
yarn, 10 pounds Glauber's salt, 3 
pounds sulphuric acid. Enter pieces 
at 150 degrees, bring to boil and boil 
40 minutes. 

LIGHT SAGE GREEN. 
IVi ounces orange II; 1^4 ounces cy- 
anole B B; 1^4 ounce fast yellow S. 

MEDIUM SAGE GREEN. 
6 ounces orange II; 2 ounces fast 
yellow S; 1 pound cyanole B B. 
DARK SAGE GREEN. 
10 ounces orange I I; 3 ounces fast 
yellow S; 11/4 pounds cyanole B B. 
MEDIUM OLIVE GREEN. 
114 pounds fast yellow S; 6 ounces 
orange II; 1 pound cyanole B B. 
OLIVE GREEN. 
214 pounds fast yellow S; Vz pound 
orange 1 1; lYz pounds cyanole B B. 
BOTTLE GREEN. 

3 pounds fast green bluish; Vz 
pound fast yellow S; Yz pound formyl 
violet S 4B. 

NAVY BLUE. 
2 pounds indigo blue S G N; 2 
ounces formyl violet S 4B. 

DARK NAVY BLUE. 

4 pounds indigo blue S G N; % 
pound orange I I; Vz pound formyl vio- 
let S 4B. 

SLATE. 

6 ounces alizarine blue SAP; Vz 
ounce orange I I; Yz ounce fast yellow 
G. 

RED. 

4 pounds fast red N S; 6 ounces 
orange I I. 



ROSE. 
3 pounds rhodamine B; 1 pound 
rhodamine 5G. 

SCARLET. 
3 pounds brilliant scarlet IR. 

BROWN. 
2yz pounds orange 11; Vz pound fast 
green bluish; 3 ounces fast acid vio- 
let lOB; Yz pound fast yellow G. 

The warps are dyed in the chain 
dyeing machine with rasi sulphur col- 
ors if possible. For 100 pounds 
warp: 

BLUE. 
8 pounds immedial indone 3B; 16 
pounds sodium sulphide; 8 pounds 
glucose; 3 pounds soda ash; 15 pounds 
Glauber's. 

SLATE. 

3 pounds thion black G; 3 pounds 
sodium sulphide; 2 pounds soda ash; 
20 pounds Glauber's. 

FAWN DRAB. 

6 pounds immedial cutch O; 6 
pounds sodium sulphide; 2 pounds 
soda ash; 20 pounds Glauber's. 

GREEN. 

4 pounds immedial yellow D; 4 
pounds immedial indone 3B; 8 pounds 
sodium sulphide; 2 pounds soda ash; 
30 pounds Glauber's salt. 

OLIVE. 

7 pounds immedial olive 3G; 2 
pounds immedial dark green B; 10 
pounds sodium sulphide; 30 pounds 
Glauber's salt; 3 pounds soda ash. 

NAVY BLUE. 

10 pounds immedial dark blue B; 
10 pounds sodium sulphide; 30 pounds 
Glauber's salt; 3 pounds soda ash. 

The fancy shades can also be dyed 
with one dip salt solors and tannine 
basic colors. 



CALICO. 



A calico may be defined as a cotton 
cloth with a figured design printed on 
one side; generally speaking, any 
printed cloth coarser than muslin, 
used principally for inexpensive 
dresses, such as shirtwaists, wrappers, 
and so on. 

The majority of inexpensive cotton 
fabrics are constructed on the one-up, 
one-dowQ system, or plain weave. Cal- 
ico is no exception to the rule. Its 
ornamentation, however, is given it 
after the cloth comes from the loom. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



145 



As mentioned above, calico is a print- 
ed cloth, 

THE PRINTING 
being effected by means of a printing 
machine, which may be described as 
an elaborate machine with a rotating 
impression cylinder, on which the de- 
sign has been stamped, or cut. The 
oloth, in passing through the machine, 
comes in contact with the impression 
cylinder. The cylinder, revolving in a 
color trough, takes up the color and 
leaves the impression of the design on 
the cloth. Calicoes may be seen in al- 
most any color. The printing machine 
is capable of printing several 

COLORS 
in one design. Calicoes, however, are 
usually in but two colors, that is, one 
color for ground and one for the fig- 
ure. 

The ground color in most cases is 
effected by dyeing the oloth in some 




Fig. 1. 

solid color. After the cloth is dyed, 
the design is printed on to the cloth. 

The printed designs on calicoes may 
be somewhat elaborate or they may 
be some simple geometrical figures. In 
order, however, to comply with the 
true principles of art, such fabrics as 
calicoes should have but simple geo- 
metrical figures for their ornamental 
features. 

Fig. 1 shows a sample of calico, 
with a printed geometrical figure, the 
simplicity of which is in harmony 
with the structure of the fabric. 

We may here mention that with all 
machine repeating designs the fig- 
ures must be laid out in conform iry 
with the dimensions of the priiting 
roll. For instance, say, the printing 
roll measures six inches in circumfer- 
ence, and the design which we wish 
to print is but two inches in its verti- 
cal repeat, in order to have perfect 



repetition we must have three repeats 
of the design stamped on the impres- 
sion roll. 

The circumfcjeiijfc of the printing 
roll will, thereff'fe, control the size 
and proporti'-. of the design. The de- 
sign mus)- oe so adjusted that the re- 
peat will occur with the utmost ac- 
curacy. 

Calicoes are made in comparatively 
narrow widths. The one under dis- 
cussion is but 23% inches, finished. 

ANALYSIS OF FABRIC. 

Width of warp in reed, 25^^ inches; 
width of fabric finished, 24 inches; 
ends in finished cloth per inch, 72; 
ends in warp, 1,700; ends per inch in 
reed 66 2-3; 1,200x2 reed. 

Take-up of warp during weaving, 7 
per cent; weight of fabric, per yard, 
from loom, 2 ounces; weight of fabric 
imished, 2 ounces; warp all l-30s card- 
ed peeler. 

Filling: 52 picks per inch in loom; 
52 picks per inch finished. 

Design. 

DBOHDHCn 
I ■GHDHaH 

uavamama 
amamamaa 
mauDmama 
DBiBoana 
mzimauDma 

Fig. 2. 
Drawing-in-draft. 

DonaDD-B 

DnaDDDBD 

aaaaawj'i 

DdDDBDCa 
DnaBODDD 

naBnnnoa 
■Dnnaaaa 

FiK.3. 

Counts l-30s carded peeler. 
LOOM REQUIRED. 

The Northrop loom would be the 
most economical loom to use for cali- 
coes and similar fabrics. The warp is 
usually sized, in order to strengthen 
the yarn. In the sizing process about 
10 or 15 per cent of weight of sizing 
material is added to the yarn, which 
consists chiefly of wheat flour or po- 
tato starch. 

FINISHING. 

The cloth, after it comes from the 
loom, is sent to the dyehouse. The first 
process is to boil it off, after which it 
is immersed in the dye tub. Calicoes 
are given what may be termed a 
"cheap cotton dye." By "cheap cotton 
dye" is meant that the colors are not 
fast, but will run or fade when sub- 
jected to water. 

After the fabric is dyed, it is then 
given to the printer, who ornaments 
the face of the cloth with some geo- 



146 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSlSARY. 



metrical design; after wliicti it is prac- 
tically ready for the merchant. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns that make up calico may 
he made in either the first or second 
division of mills, as given in a pre- 
vious lesson. The counts of the yarns 
used for the particular fabric for this 
article are l-30s, both warp and fill- 
ing, and these are made out of 1% 
inches staple peeler cotton. After be- 
ing sampled, several bales are placed 
around the bale breaker, and fed to 
this machine, a little from each bale. 
By doing this a 

MORE EVEN YARN 
is apt to be obtained. After passing 
through the bale breaker the cotton is 
conveyed either by endless lattices or 
blower and trunking to the cotton 
bins. As large a mixing as possible 
should be made at one time. The raw 
stock for this fabric is put through an 
opener and three processes of pick- 
ing. The opener is never allowed to 
become less than half full when ma- 
chine is running, for reasons given in 
previous articles. The beater of this 
machine runs at a speed of about 900 
revolutions per minute. After pass- 
ing through this machine, which is 
generally connected directly with the 
breaker picker, either by trunking or 
by an endless lattice, the cotton comes 
under the action of the feed rolls of 
the breaker picker, which compress 
it into a sheet, and it is in this form 
that it is presented to the beater. For 
this class of work a 

TWO-BLADED BEATER 
Is used and the speed of the beater at 
this machine is 1,400 revolutions per 
minute. The total weight of a lap at 
the front end is 40 pounds, or about a 
16-ounce lap. These laps are put up 
at the intermediate picker and doubled 
four into one. The speed of the beat- 
er for this machine is about 1,350 revo- 
olutions per minute. The total weight 
of lap at the fro t is 37 pounds or 12 
ounces to the yard. These laps are put 
up at the finisher picker, and doubled 
four into one. It is at this point that 
the cut-rovi g waste is mixed in with 
the raw stock in the proportion of 
three laps of raw stock to one lap of 
rovi-^g waste. It is understood that 
the bobbin waste has to go through a 
special process before being mixed 
with the raw stock. The speed of the 
beater for this machine is about the 



same as that of the intermediate pick- 
er, 1,350 revolutions per minute. This 
gives the cotton passing under its ac- 
tion about 42 beats per inch. The to- 
tal weight of a lap at the front is 35 
pounds or a 13-ounce lap. These 
laps are then taken to the card room, 
as needed, and put up at 

THE CARD. 
This card should have a draft not ex- 
ceeding 100. The cylinder fillet for 
this class of work should be composed 
of No. 33 or 100s English count wire, 
and the doffer fillet and that of tha 
top combs of No. 34 wire or 110s Eng- 
lish count. The speed of the licker- 
in is 300 revolutions per minute, and 
the top flats make one complete rev- 
olution every 50 minutes. The cards 
should be stripped three times a day, 
and ground at least once every month, 
and set at the time of grinding. Keep 
parts at the front of card cleaned of 
all fly and collect the fly from the flats 
before it accumulates and falls over 
the doffer or goes up under the flat 
comb and gets onto the fiats. The 
weight of the sliver at the front 
should be 65 grains per yard, the 
production about 750 pounds per week 
of GO hours. From the card the sliver 
is put through 

THREE PROCESSES OF DRAWING. 
At these machines the doubling is 
six into one. The draft at the different 
processes is as follows: Breaker, 4.50; 
intermediate, 7; finisher, 7.20. The- 
setting of the rolls is as follows: Dis- 
tance between front and second, 1%; 
between second and third,l%, third and 
back, 1% inches. The front roll makes- 
400 revolutions per minute. The 
weight of sliver at the finisher draw- 
ing is 72 grains per yard. The drawing 
sliver is put through the slubber 
where it is drawn into .60 hank roving. 
Set rolls as follows: front to second, 
1% inches; second to back, 1% inches. 
The slubber roving is put through 
two processes of fly frames at the first 
intermediate. The hank roving is 
2.25 hank and at the next process it is 
drawn into 6. hank. The lays per 
inch of the roving on the bobbin at this 
machine are 33. Look out for the 
top rolls to see that they are always 
in the best of condition. From the 
jack frame the roving is taken to 

THE SPINNING ROOM 
where it is spun into 30s yarn. The 
particulars for a warp frame are as 

follows: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



147 



diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of 
traverse, 6%; speed of spindle, 9,800 
revolutions per minute; twist per inch 
26.02. The yarn is then taken to the 
spooler and then to the warper. From 
the warper the beams are put through 
the slasher. A good sizing to be used 
for this fabric is as follows: Water, 100 
gallons; cornstarch, 50 pounds; tal- 
low, three pounds; turpentine, one 
gill. Boil 30 minutes if the cloth is 
woven on a common loom. If woven 
on a Draper loom use of water, 100 
gallons; potato starch, 50 pounds; tal- 
low, three pounds; turpentine, one 
gill. Boil 30 minutes. 

The filling yarn (30s) is made on a 
frame fitted as follows: Gauge of 
frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 
1% inches; length of traverse, 6 in- 
ches; speed of spindles, 8,300 revolu- 
tions per minute; twist per inch, 19.16. 



Printing Particulars. 

Most of the designs for calicoes and 
cotton cloth printing are made in Pa- 
ris, which has been tne headquarters 
for many years of new styles and 
fashions. 

The design is taken by the sketch 
maker,and drawn to scale, so that the 
engraver can apply it to the copper 
roller. Formerly all the printing was 
by hand (block) printing. Now ma- 
chines are made to print from one to 
24 colors. 

A 12-color machine is the largest 
generally used, but there are a few 
24-color printing machines in Europe. 
Each color has a separate roller and 
the engraver has to make the pattern 
fit on every roller, so that when the 
piece is printed the design is not spoilt 
and the colors mixed up. 

ENGRAVING THE ROLLERS 
is done by hand or machine, by the 
pentograph or the die machine. 

The printing machine turns out 
aJbout 400 to 800 50-yard pieces a day. 
There have been times where 1,000 50- 
yard pieces have been run in 12 hours, 
a one-color pattern, but for some de- 
signs and cloths only 250 pieces are 
run in a day. 

The pieces are singed and bleached, 
then sheared and brushed to take 
away all lint from the face of the 
piece. 

The pieces arc printed, dried, and 
steamed to fix the color, afterwards 
soaped and washed, then finished and 
folded, and made up, ready for the 
market, being generally packed in 20- 



piece lots, to be shipped to any point 
of the compass. There are 

MANY STYLES 
of calico printing. At present the 
steam styles are most prominent. The 
colors are the fastest and brightest to 
be obtained. The most important 
styles will now be considered. First in 
the list are alizarine colors, of almost 
every hue and shade, reds, pinks, pur- 
ples, browns, blues, yellows, oranges, 
etc. Alizarines are fixed on the fibre 
by chrome mordants. 
BLUE. 
Three pounds alizarine blue S paste, 
20 per cent; one gallon starch thicken- 
ing; three pounds acetate chrome, 20 
degrees Tw. After printing, the pieces 
are steamed for one hour, four pounds 
steam pressure, then soaped and 
washed. 

BASIC COLORS 
are good bright, fast colors fixed with 
tannine: 10 ounces auramine, li/^ pints 
of water, 1% pints of acetic acid, 10 
degrees Tw.; 6 pints gum water, 1x1; 
21,4 pints acetic acid tannic acid solu- 
tion, 1x1. Steam and run through a 
bath of tartar emetic; wash and dry. 
The basis colors are very bright, and 
consist of every shade m the rainbow. 
Extracts of various dyewoods are 
still used for some styles, fixed with 
chrome or alumina. 

PIGMENT STYLES 
are fixed with albumen as vermilion 
red, chrome green, ultramarine blue, 
etc. Indigo blue is dyed, then dis- 
charged white, yellow, orange and 
other colors are printed on the dyed 
pieces. Aniline black is an important 
style with many resist colors printed 
first, the black padded afterwards and 
oxidized. This is extensively used. 

Patterns are printed on the cloth 
with mordants of iron and alum. The 
cloth is then aged and dunged, dyed 
with alizarine, and the old madder 
styles produced, which were in such 
demand 50 years ago. Then there 
are turkey-red styles, with discharge 
white, yellow, blue, green, black on 
red ground; discharge white and col- 
ors on blues, browns, wines, etc. In- 
digo blues are dyed in the vat with a 
large proportion of synthetic indigo 
and discharges printed on. There is 
also direct indigo printing with the 
glucose process. 

New styles and combination of col- 
ors are produced every month and fast- 
er and brighter colors printed each 
season. 



H8 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSiSARY. 



PERCALE. 



Percale may be defined as a closely 
woven fabric, made with a good qual- 
iity' of 'cotton yarn. Percale is of 
S^rencb' origin and was originally 
ma^e with linen yarn,henoe the name, 
as'itiis sometimes called French cam- 
bric. 

The fi:ner qualities of percale are 
used for handkerchiefs, aprons, etc. 
When used for these purposes they are 
not printed, but bleached, after the 
Habric comes from the loom. 



• Vi V 

St 


— • — 


V 


'Xi- 





• 




• 
• 




• 




!«!• 


{> 


• 


1 Ai A 




A 



Fig. 1. 

Percale, however, is chiefly used for 
dres's fabrics, such as shirt-waisl suits 
for spring and summer wear, and as 
such, is quite common. 

' Percale, when intended for dress 
fabrics, is usually printed on one side 
with some neat geometrical figure. The 
printed figure is usually in black, al- 
though some may be seen in red or 
blue. The fabric is bleached before 
it is subjected to the printing opera- 
tion. 

. A CHARACTERISTIC FEATURE 

of percale is the lack of gloss, or its 
dull finish, due to the fact that it is 
not subjected to any pressure during 



the finishing process. Percales may 
also be described as plain woven fab- 
rics with a printed design on one side. 

The color used for the printed fig- 
ures is quite durable, in so far that it 
will not readily fade and will wear 
almost as long and well as the fabric. 

The printed designs on percales are 
usually plain but neat geometrical fig- 
ures. The polka dot pattern is quite 
common. It produces a very neat ef- 
fect, especially when dots are in black. 
Striped designs are also very common. 
Some very neat effects may be ob- 
tained when using a stripe in connec- 
tion with some simple geometrical 
figure. 

Fig. 1 shows on an enlarged scale a 
design for a stripe percale. The stripes 
as a rule run in the direction of 
the warp. Stripes running vertically 
tend to increase the appearance of 
height,, while stripes running horizon- 
tally tend to decrease the impression 
of height; for this reason short per- 



■^ ^nanBnBDBDBDBn 

DBn■^BDBDBDB^■DB 
BT tannBDBDBrBnBa 

n«iinin"ii ■ Bnaaw 
Bii inBnBPB'Br wi 
n«Tn«~irariBDBO^DH 
Bin^iinHDiinBDw i 
rjniT» lai-B b^whh 
Bii i^-nni»rrnBDBn 
aTmT^niR"iii una 

Bll I^^TT^nwDHCBQ 

mim~iBrBn»nBQB 
fl mTni«~i"«'"BnBDBn 

BrU "HnBDWnBOBDBG 



Fig. 2. Weave. 



naDBCnCBDDDBDDDB 
□DBDCDBDDDBDDDBD 
DBDDDBDDDBDDDBna 

BDnaBDnaBDnDBcnn 
No. 3 — 4 repeats. 



sons are advised to select dress goods 
with the stripe runnmg vertically. 

Percale, like most cotton fabrics, is 
made in several qualities, as regards 
counts of yarn used, and the number 
of ends and picks per inch. We will 
here give an analysis of a good grade: 

ANALYSIS. 

Width of warp in reed, 3S% inches; 
width of faJbric finished,36 inches; ends 
per inch, finished, 85; ends in body of 
warp, 3,(>80; 20 ends for selvedge; to- 
tal ends, 3,100. 

Take-up of warp during weaving 6 
per cent; weight of rabric per yard 
from loom, SVz ounces. 

Finished weight, iJ% ounces per 
yard; warp, all l-30s carded peeler; 
reed, 1,400x2. 

Filling, all l-36s combed peeler, 74 
picks per inch in loom; 74 picks per 
inch, finished. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 
Percale, like most cotton faibrics, is 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



149 



woven on looms with high running 
speed. Percales are plain woven fab- 
rics, consequently no dohhy is re- 
quired. The Northrop loom would De 
the mosit economical loom to use in the 
manufacture of percale, or df a North- 
rop loom is not available use any plain 
weaving loom and draw warp straight 
on 8 harnesg. Considerable care 
should be exercised in the weav- 
ing. No broken picks should be al- 
lowed to pass, as they will show quite 
distinctly in the finished fabric. 
FINISHING. 

After the fabric comes from the loom 
it is sent to the bleach house, where 
it is first boiled off. Then it is bleached. 
After the bleaching process the fa;bric 
is ready lor the printer. After the 
printing operation the falbric is slight- 
ly stiffened, by being passed through 
a size trough. The size used for stif- 
fening is usually corn, wheat, rice, 
barley, potato or farina. Any of 
these will give the desired effect. 

The faJbric passes from the sizing 
trough on to the drying cylinders.after 
Which it is folded; then it is ready for 
shipment. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The counts of yam of which percale 
is composed are made in mills of the 
second division. The counts of yarn 
vary according to the quality of the 
cloth. In this lesson we will consider 
the count of the filling yarn to be 36s 
and the warp yarn to be 30s. The fill- 
ing yam is com<bed and the warp yarn 
isi carded peeler of 1 5-16ths inches 
staple. The cotton is brought from the 
storehouse and sample^d, and all bales 
of the same length and grade of staple 
are placed around the bale breaker. 
The cotton is fed from each bale alter- 
nately tO' the brea.ker. From the 
breaker it is conveyed afutomatically to 
the so-oalled mixing bins, either by 
endless lattices or a blower and trunk- 
ing, or a combination of both. The lat- 
ter method is the better one because 
it 

HELPS TO DRY OUT 
the cotton better. At the mixing bins 
the sliver waste from all the machines 
up to the slubber is mixed in. The 
sliver waste should not be thrown in 
in long lengths, but should be brolcen 
into short lengths, so that it will not 
become wound around the pin roller 
of the hopper. The raw stock is next 
put througn a hopper and either two 
or three processes of pickers. The hop- 
per should be kept well filled so as to 
insure a uniform amount of cotton al- 
ways being delivered to the pin roller. 
This machine is generally provided 



with a porcupine ^beater. The cotton is 
delivered on to an endless lattice, 
which carries it to the feed rolls of 
the picker. These feed rolls compress 
it and present it to the beater. This 
beater is generally of the rigia type, 
having two or three arms, generally 
two. 

SPEED OF BEATER 
This beater has a speed of 1,500 revo- 
lutions per minute, if of a 2-bladea 
type, or 1,000 revolutions per minute 
if it has three arms. The total weignt 
of the lap at the front of the breaker 
picker is 40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap. 
These laps are put up at the intermedi- 
ate picker and doubled 4 into 1. The 
speed of this beater is about 1,450 revo- 
utions per minute for a 2Hbladed, or 
975 revolutions per minute for a 3- 
bladed beater. The total weight of a 
lap at the front is 37 pounds or a 12- 
ounce (per yard) lap. These laps are 
put up at the finisher picker and 
doubled 4 into 1. At this picker the 
cut roving waste of the same length of 
staple and cotton is mixed in in the 
proportion of 3 laps of raw stock to 
1 lap of cut waste. The speed of the 
beater for the machine is 1,200 revo- 
lutions per minute for a 2-|bladed, or 
800 revolutions per minute for a 3- 
bladed beater of a rigid type. The to- 
tal weight of a lap at the front is 35 
pounds or a 12%-'0unce lap. A varia- 
tion of one-half pound from standard to- 
tal weight O'f lap is allowed at this 
picker. All laps weigning over 35 J^ 
pounds or under 341^ pounds should be 
run over again. The laps are taken to 

THE CARDS, 
where the draft sihouHd not exceed lOD 
for this class of goods. The speed of 
the various par is is as follows: Licker- 
in, 300 revolutions per minute; cylin- 
der, 160 revolutions per minute; doffer 
(.24 inch), 91^, revolutions per minute. 
The top flats have one revolution ev- 
ery 45 minutes. The weight of the 
sliver at the front should be about 
65 grains, and the production about 
600 pounds per week of 60 hours. At 
this point the sliver ^or the filling yarn 
and that for the warp yarn separate, 
that for filling yarn being taken to 
the comber. Before being put through 
the combers the sliver has to gofhrough 
one or more processes. These vary 
according to the different ideas of the 
ones in charge; sometimes the sliver is 
put througih a drawing frame and 
sliver lap, and sometimes throug*h 
a sliver lap alone. The 

GENERAL METHOD USED 
is to put it through a sliver lap ma- 
chine ana then a ribbon lap machine. 
It is the general custom of late day 



1'50 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



to use 8 head combers running a IQi/^- 
inch lap. The following calculations are 
made on this ba?is. At the silver lap 
machine the carded sliver is doubled 
20 into 1. The draft of this machine 
is about 2. The laps are put up at the 
ribbon lap machine and doubled 6 into 
1. These laps are put up at the comher 
and doubled 8 into 1. The production 
of this machine is about 600 lbs. per 
week of 60 hours. The sliver is then put 
up and run through two processes of 
drawing frame and doubled 6 into 1. 
The weight of the sliver at the front ot 
the finisher drawing frame is 65 grains 
per yard. The speed Oj. the front roll is 
350 revolutions per minute. This sliver 
is next put through the slubtoer and 
made into .50 hank roving. This is 
next put through thrc3 processes of 

FLY FRAMES, 

the hanks at the different processes be- 
ing as follows: 1st, 1.40; 2d,3, and jack, 
9 hank. From here the roving is taken 
to either the mule room or the ring 
spinning room. We will consider that 
it is taken to th.3 ring spinning room, 
where the frame for spinning 36s would 
be as follows: Gauge of frame, 2% in.; 
diameter of ring, 1%; length of trav- 
erse, 5; twist per incCi, 27.96; revolu- 
tions per minute of spindles,7,400. After 
the spinning frame the yarn is carried 
to the weave room. 

The sliver for warp yarn after leav- 
ing the card is put through 

THREE PROCESSES OF DRAWING 

the weight of the sliver at the finisher 
drawing being 70 grains per yard, the 
revolutions per minu+c of the front 
roll being 350. This is put up at the 
slubber and made into .50 hank roving, 
after which the roving is put fhrough 
two processes of fly frames, the hank 
roving at each being as follows: Ist, 2, 
and jack,7 hank. The roving is taken to 
the spinning room and spun into 30s 
yarn on a frame having the following 
particulars: Gauge of frame, 2% in.; 
diameter of ring, 1% in.; length of 
traverse, 6i^ in.; twist per inch, 26.02; 
revolutions per minute of spindles, 9,- 
800. The yarn is next taken tO' tne 
spooler, then to the warper, and from 
here to the slasher. 



Bleaching and Finishing Particulars. 

Percales are very carefully handled 
in the finishing process. 

The goods are hleached in a kier 
with 4 degrees caustic soda, washed 
and boiled with another process of 
4 degrees caustic soda, washed and 
chemicked at % degree Tw. for six to 
eight hours, being laid in bins. Then 



they are soured with ^ deigree sul- 
phuric acid, and well washed and 
dried. Some finishers place each piece 
in the kiers separately, and also in 
ohemic tubs and souring bins, as, 
if sewed in long lengths, and run 
through the machinery in the rope 
form, the pieces are dragged and the 
threads are not straight across the 
piece. Spots and small figures are 
printed on the goods in navy 'blue, 
brown, black, green and other colors. 
DARK NAVY. 

Eight ounces new fast hlue F; 2 
ounces methyl violet 3 R; 1% pints 
water; 1% pints acetic acid 10 degrees 
Tw.; 7 pints thickening; 8 noggins ace- 
tic acid and tannic acid (1-1). 
DARK ROiSE. 

Four and one-half cinces rhodamine 
5 G; 3 pints acetic acid 10 degrees Tw.; 
5 pints water; SVz pints mucilage tra- 
gacanth (70-1,000); 4 noggins acetic 
tannic solution (1-1). 

IMPERIAL PURPLE. 

Four ounces methyl violet 4 R; 3 
pints acetic acid 10 degrees Tw. ; 3 
pints mucilage of tragacanth (70-1,000) ; 
5 pints water; 2 noggins acetic tannic 
solution (1-1). 

GREEN. 

Pour ounces malachite green; I-|4 
pints acetic acid 10 degrees Tw.; & 
pints gum water (1-1); 4 noggins ace- 
tic tannic acid (1-1) ; 2 pints water. 
GRAY. 

Two ounces new fast gray; 5 pints 
mucilage of tragacanth (70-1,000) ; 8 
pints albumen water (1-1) ; 3 pints 
water. 

The above colors are steamed for one 
hour with five pounds steam. They 
are run through a solution of tartar 
emetic, 2 ounces to gallon, soaped 
and rinsed, then dried. 

STARCHING. 

Six to eight ounces white German 
dextrine, 1 gallon water. Mix cold and 
boil for 20 minutes. After starch- 
ing, dry on a ten.ter frame. 



PERCALINE. 



Percaline, like percale, is a plain 
woven fabric made with a good quality 
of single cotton yarn tor both warp 
and filling. The similarity extends 
no further; the difference between the 
two fabrics lies chiefly in the weight 
and finish. 

Percaline is a lighter fabric and 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



151 



has a very glossy finish, or, more 
properly speaking, a inoory finisli per- 
caline is usually dyed in solid col- 
ors. Percale, on the other hand, is a 
bleached cloth with a dull finish and 
usually with a printed design on \ one 
side. 

Percaline is used chiefly for feminine 
wearing apparel, principally for lin- 
ings, petticoats, etc. These purposes 
require th]at the cloth shall be of 
solid color, the darker colors being 
preferred, such as darK blues, dark 
green and black.which have the great- 
est sale. It may, however, also be 
seen in lighter shades, such as a me- 
dium blue, a light shade of brown and 
various shades of tan. 

Percaline, as mentioned above, is a 
plain woven, single-yarn fabric. The 

WARP YARN IS SIZED 
in order to facilitate tiie weaving. A 
fabric like percaline requires very lit- 
tle detail work, as far as the design- 
ing is concerned. The most attention 
is given to the finishing process. la 
order to get a good glossy finish a 
certain number of ends and picks per 
inch are required. 

It is imiportant, in laying out the 
ends and picks per inch, that the de- 



B 



■nanB~B~i 

DBDH^BIH 

BDwawnun 

DBn^GBOB 

aDBDBaaa 
Fig. 1. 



n~'»^B 
Ban 
D"''Ba 
aam 
nana 
■■nn 
Dn«a 
■B:3a 



Fig. 1. 



Chain Drafts. 



R A 

nnnnnnDB 
nnnDnD«n 

nnDDDBDD Dnaannna 
□nnnannn DannDann 
□onanDDD nna^nnaD 
Dnacinnnn annnBDna 
namaaon 
annannnn 

Pig. 2. Pig. 2. 

Drawing-in Drafts. 



signer bear in mind that unless suf- 
ficient yarn is used, the fabric will 
not acquire the desired effect in the 
finishing. 

This glossy or moory finish is quite 
a characteristic feature in a perca- 
line. The more ends and picks per 
inch used, the more gloss the fabric 
will possess when finished. 
ANALYSIS. 

Width of warp in reed, 37.5; width 
of fabric finished, 36; ends per inch, 
84; ends in warp, 3,050; 1,400x2, reed. 

Take-up of warp during weaving, 
7 per cent; weight of cloth per yard 
from loom, 2.5 ounces; weight of cloth 
per yard finished, 3 ounces; warp 
yarn, l-30s combed peeler. 

Filling,l-40s, 84 picks per inch from 
loom. 

Picks per inch finished, 84. 
LOOM REQUIRED. 

Percaline is woven in the gray on 
high running speed looms, with four 
or eight harnesses. When four har- 



nesses are used, the warp is generally 
drawn in the following order: 1, 3, 2, 
4. (See BMg. 2A.) When eight har- 
nesses are used, it is drawn straight. 
(See Fig. 2 B.) Fig. 1 A: desi=?n 
for skip draw four harnesses. Fig. 
IB: design for eight harnesses straigac 
draw. 

The Northrop loom would be about 
the best loom to use, principally on 
account of production obtained 
with these looms. 

FINISHING. 

The finishing lirocess will include 
fi-om the time the cloth comes 
from the loom until the cloth is ready 
for use. 

The first process to which the cloth 
is subjected is to boil it off, that is, 
by soaking it in boiling water; this 
process partially relieves it from any 
foreign matter that it may have gath- 
ered during the weaving and at the 
same time prepares it for the dye 
tub. 

After the fabric is dyed, it is sized 
in order to stiffen it and also height- 
en the gloss on the cloth. 

After the sizing, it is ready for the 
calender. In order to still more add 
to the gloss on the face of the fabric, 
the cloth is usually doubled length- 
wise, or sometimes two pieces are 
placed together, back to back, and 
i"un through the calend'er at the same 
time. Before the cloth reaches the cal- 
ender rolls it passes between two 
perforated steam pipes, which wet the 
cloth considerably, then between the 
rolls of the calender, which are well 
heated and tightly set together. The 
above-mentioned processes produce 
what is termed a moory finish. 

The cloth after it comes from the 
calender is lapped on small boards, 
after which it is ready for the market. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The carding and spinning particu- 
lars applicable to the manufacture of 
Dercale, given in the last article, may 
be followed also with reference to per- 
caline, with a few minor cha-^ges: 
Thus the count of the filling yarn is 
to be 40s, instead of 36s. The filUig 
and warp yarns are both carded peel- 
er, and the cut roving is put through 
a special process that takes out the 
twist and delivers it i'l a fluffy state. 
This is then put through a picker, 
which forms it into a lap, and these 
laps are dealt with as before de- 
scribed. All laps weighing over 35% 
pounds or under 34% pounds should 
be run through the finisher picker 



152 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



again, being mixed in with the other 
laps in the proportion of one re-run 
lap to three regular laps. This is 
done so that the weight will not vary 
from the standard. At the cards a 
26 or 27 inch doffer should be used it 
possible, the larger the better, and the 
production should be 650 pounds per 
week of 60 hours. The sliver for both 
the warp and filling yarn is put 
through three processes of drawing, 
and the roving to make the warp yarn 
through two processes of fly frames. 
The following size mixing may be used 
at the slasher: Water, 100 gallons; 
cornstarch, 50 pounds; tallow, three 
pounds; turpentine, one gill; boil 
three minutes. The slubber roving 
for filling yarn is put through three 
processes of fly frames. We will con- 
sider that it is taken to the ring 
spinning w'orm, where the frame for 
spinning 40s would be as follows: 

Gauge of frame,2% inches; diameter 
of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 
5y2 inches; speed of spindles, 8,800; 
twist per inch, 23.72. 

After being spun, the filling yarn 
is treated so that it Is delivered to 
the weave room in a moist state. This 
is accomplished by different methods 
in different mills, some using a steam 
chest, while others simply immerse 
the filling in water just before it is 
carried to the weave room. 



Dyeing Particulars. 
PEARL. 

One-quarter per cent diamine dark 
blue B; 10 per cent Glauber's; 2 per 
cent sal soda. 

LIGHT TAN. 

One-quarter per cent diamine fast 
yellow B; Vs per cent diamine brown 
G; 1-16 per cent diamine black B H; 
10 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

LIGHT BROWN. 

One-quarter per cent tetrazo brown 
R; % per cent tetrazo yellow M; % 
per cent tetrazo black N; 10 per ceat 
Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 

LIGHT BLUE. 

One-'eighth per cent diamine sky 
blue F F; 20 per cent Glauber's; 1 per 
cent sal soda. 

LILAC. 

Onje-quarter per*cent tetrazo chlorine 
lilac B; 10 per cent Glauber's; 2 per 
cent sal soda. 

ROSE. 

One-quarter per cent tetrazo chlo- 



rine rose; 10 per cent Glauber's; 1 
per cent sal soda. 

MEDIUM BROWN. 
One per cent diamine fast yellow 
B; 1 per cent diamine brown B; i/4 
per cent diamine black B H; 20 per 
cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 

ROYAL BLUE. 
Three per cent tetrazo brilliant blue 
B B; 30 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent 
sal soda. 

PINK. 
One-quarter per cent tetrazo pink 
G G N; 20 per cent Glauber's; 1 per 
cent sal soda. 

NAVY BLUE. 
Two per cent diamine blue B; 3 per 
cent diamine black B H; 30 per cent 
Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 

DARK GREEN. 
Five per cent diamine green B; 1 
per cent diamine black H W; 30 per 
cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 

DARK BROWN. 

Two per cent diamine fast yellow 
B; 3 per cent diamine brown B; l^ per 
cent diamine black B H; 30 per cent 
Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. 

WINE. 
Three per cent diamine Bordeaux 
B; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent 
sal soda. 

SCARLET. 
Three per cent diamine scarlet B; 
30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal 
soda. 

BLACK. 
Fifteen per cent immedial brilliant 
black; 15 per cent sulphide sodium; 3 
per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 



BEDFORD CORD, 



Bedford cord is a name given to one 
of the most popular types of fabrics, 
the distinguishing effect of which is a 
line stripe and raised cord effect run- 
ning lengthwise of the cloth, the cords 
being of more or less prominence. 

Figs. 1, 3 and 6 show examples. 

They are a standard type and are 
made in a large variety of weights. 
The cords vary in width from about 
l-20th to 1/4 inch. Although usually 
made with cotton, the name refers to 
the weave rather than to a combina^ 
tion of weave and material. Sample 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



153 



for Fig. 3 is a worsted bedford cord. 

The face effect of bedford cords is 
generally plain, although twill face 
cords are occasionally miade. 

Fig. 1 illustrates a plain faced bed- 



Fig. 1. 

ford cord, made with weave Fig. 2, 
This is the simplest type of bedford 
cord weave, but is not used to any 
extent on account of some of the picks, 
A and B, bringing widely differing 
proportions of warp and filling! on 
the face from picks C and D, making 
it hard on a loom. 



These ends weave plain thi'Dughout 
and have twice as many interlacihgs 
as the other ends in each repeat: ' 



Fig. 6. 



The remainder of the ends weave 
plain on one-half of the picks only, 
and are then raised out of the, way 
and the filling allowed to float under 
them for the other two picks, the 



DmamamnmauT>ja 

mnmamnmamac 

saaaaaaaaaA 
Fig. 2. 



DsaaGaaaaaaaDmaaaaaaaaaa 
saaaaaaDaaaamGaaaaaaaaaa 
Dsaaaaaaaaaaa^DaaaDaDaDa 
SGaaaaaaaaaasaaaaDaaaGaD 

Fig. 4. 



Dfflasaa^^saanaaQaoffiDGaDDaDG'BDoa 
SGBBaaQaBQBaQasGBGGaDaBGGaca 

aSGGBGGBGGBGGflDfflBQBBQBBQBBna 
SGBGGBDGBGGaDGSJGBQBBQaaQaBQB 

Fig. 5. 



Fig. 3 illustrates a sample made 
with Fig. 4. This shows practically 
the same effect as Fig. 1, but has been 
made with an easier weave. 

Figs. 4 and 5 will serve to show the 
two principal forms of construction 
of bedford cords. 

Fig. 4 is complete on 24 ends and 4 




Fig. 3. 

picks. One repeat of this weave 
makes two ribs or cords in Fig. 3. The 
line or cut effect is formed by ends 1 
and 2. and 13 and 14, shown in type b 



cords alterniating so that when one rib 
is weaving plain.the same pick of fill- 
ing is floating under the next one. The 
plain picks of the succeeding repeat 
slide over and cover these long 'floats 
of filling, making the face effect plain 
and yet striped. 

The advisability of using this ' type 
of weave in preference to that shown 
in Fig. 2 is in the fact that it allows 
the ends of one cord to be raised out 



GsiaBnBBBnBnBBBaBaBafflnBBBnBcrcnnBrnjiBB 

ffinBDBBBGBnBBBC^nBBtPaBnBBBDB smWCB^BB 
aSaBBBGBaBBBQBGBBBnfflCBDBWB'^B^'BWDBPB 
fflaBBTGBGBBBDBnBBBnffir-'BnBr'BBB "linBD 

GBBBaBDBBBDBnBBBQBnsPBBGwnBTp-BPOWBDB 
fflGBGBGBBBGBGBBBDBGffiGBBBDBGaBlsnaaSBBa 



Fii 



of the way, while the other is weav- 
ing plain, and the loom is allowed to 
raise the same number of ends on each 
pick. 

As every two picks of filling inter- 
lace only with the ends of every alter- 
nate rib, and float at the back of the 
next one. solid lines of color Ipngth- 
wise of the piece may be made by ar- 
ranging the warp yams of one rib of 
one color and those of the other rib of 



154 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



a different color, and picking the fill- 
ing 2 and 2 so that each color inter- 
laces only with the same color of 
warp. A variety of colored stripes 
may be made by combining the types 
Figs. 2 and 4, varying the number and 
sizes of sections as desired. 

To get extra weight without altering 
the appearance of the face, extra warp 
yarns, termed wadding ends, are in- 
serted between the face weave and the 
filling floating at the back of the rib. 
When these wadding ends are coarse, 
they give a pronounced rounded ap- 



coarse reed in a fairly heavy single 
box loom. One warp only is re- 
quired unless the counts of the wad- 
ding and face yarns dlfCer. 

The question of dividing the two 
cutting ends with the reed or of put- 
ting them in the same dent depends 
upon the effect desired and the qual- 
ity of the fabric. The stripes may be 
varied in width as desired, or the sizes 
of the different ribs in one pattern may 
vary within certsin limits. 

The construction of samples for Figs. 
1, 3 and 6 are as follows: 



eBaDnBDDBBaDDDaaDffDDBBDDanDCDBBfflDSBHHHBBHQBaHaSBHBt^'-HHartlHHBWB 

nfflgs5]aa^=a33rtj:3ij?;na ji--iaa'-if!aa«asinffiaD«nnBBnDDDnnnBunQHaDDDODDBB 
ggB«?!?aHasiiiiC3asi- na-i-ias- : □□KiF-iHaHsiJifflnnnDDDBBDnBDDDDDCLk,^ ^dbdddddb 

□fflCBHaD«aDnanDaBBCDBauDDnDCH»»Dffii!i>.fEHnp:t=-GH' ■ :HH i HE'- :•:□?;='"--□□■■■ 
SBDBHBGaDDGDDBuGBBDDDDGDDBDDBBnftni'^aBaHHiijcBHH' -^BaH^" ■ HC::^ .- aa,;. a HHaiaB 

GffliB!«*HaaeH3s™aai,..aa^ :■ aa'i-iaaa-^wGfflBGGGaGBcaBBaGGGaDCBa ■■ggggQ 
fflGteifc:e3ucmaaa«s[3asaHHK: ; aa:.:' ,aa'"-i-!^Ba«BQaacGGGHBaaHGGGGcaa»BGaBGD 

GH««GGGGGGGBHnG«GGGGDaCBBCr,»GGaffiWs|sEapEaai--ts;EaitEnaBi:EHBBiiEa«»« 
EBGBDGaDGBGa«BGaGCGGGBLCB»CrDaGEGPB»GHi»PaaPtEGailBaaHBaaBliiHaiaP« 

DfflHgfHH««QggaaaiJBiHQasaa6;'«;aaatai=!GEa«B»GGGaaaGBaGBBaGacGacBGGBBa 

fflnaeiiHHBBHHHfcaHelhiHais'^&EQSiiBaHSBHfflCGBBaDBGGaDGDaBBGQBDGLGaQDBBB 

Fig. 8. 



pearan'ce to the cord, more so than if 
several ends of finer yarns a.re . used. 
Wadding ends are generally coarser 
than the face ends. 

Fig. 5 illustrates the type of weave 
used when a bedford cord is re- 
quired with a fine face and a heavy 
weight, or where a well-rounded cord 
is desired. Ends shown with type □ 
are wadding encis. These are al- 
ways raised when the filling is float- 
ing at the back of the cord and de- 
pressed when the filling is interweav- 
ing with the face ends. 

Fig. 6 illustrates a bedford cord with 
a twill weave on the face. The twill 
runs to the right in one rib and to the. 
left in the next one, making a herring- 
"bone effect. Fig. 7 shows the face 
weave for Fig. 6, ends 1 and 2 and 19 
and 20 being the cutting ends. 

The weave for this particular sam- 
ple lias been made on the principle 
shown in Fig. 2, but weave Fig. 8 
would be nreferable. In this figure 
type ffl Indicate cutting ends; b wad- 
ding ends; m and solid black type face 
cord ends; solid type and m show the 
face weave. The wadding ends would 
be drawn 2 in each heddle. There are 
12 of these in each rib. 

The cutting ends in Fig. 6 might 
have been arranged to work 2 and 2, 
instead of plain, because of the large 
number of picks per inch and the rel- 
ajtive amount of in terracing of the 
other ends. When the face weave is 
plain, two plain ends should separate 
the ribs. 

Bedford cords are firm fabrics,soTOe- 
what heavy on account of the large 
number of ends and picks required per 
inch. They are usually woven with a 



For Fig. 1, 96 sley. 88 pick; for 
Fig. 3. 116 sley, 108 pick; for Fig. €, 
220 sley, 156 pick. 

No. 6 contains 132 face ends and 88 
wadding ends per inch, making a to- 
tal of 220. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The machinery for the manufacture 
of bedford cord will be found in the 
second and third division of mills, as 
given in a previousi lesson. There are 
generally three counts of yarn used 
for each piece of cloth, one for filling, 
one for the warp, and one for the 
cords. These counts vary according 
to the quality of the fabric being made, 
generally several different qualities 
being made under one management. 
The counts of jarn which will be 
considered in this article as composing 
the cloth will be number 40s for warp, 
number 60s for filling and number 20s 
for the cord or wadding ends. These 
counts are made up of a good quality 
of cotton of aibout 1% to 1% inch 
staple. At the mixing bins the waste 
sliver up to the slubber is mixed in as 
collected, which should be done at reg- 
ular intervals during the day. The one 
in charge of the picker room should see 
that too much waste is not being made 
and also that the sliver is well torn to 
pieces before being put into the mix- 
ing. A good way to check how much 
waste is being made is to have the 
picker man weigh it as- it comes in and 
at the end of every week give his list 
to the overseer. In this way the over- 
seer may be sure that he is getting a 
correct list of the amount of waste be- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



155 



ing made and can act accordingly. 
The raw stock is put through either 
two or three processes of picking, 

TWO PROCESSES OF PICKING 

being generally used, although the 
particulars for three processes will be 
given here. The raw stock is fed to 
the hopper and from here passes under 
a beater, the speed of which is 1,050 
revolutions per minute. From here it 
is conveyed to the feed rolls of the 
breaker picker, in a fluffy state, by an 
endless lattice. The feed rolls con- 
dense it and present the sheet of cot- 
ton to the action of the beater, which 
is generally of the rigid type, having 
either two or three arms. If a two- 
armed beater is used, the speed should 
be about 1,500 revolutions per min- 
ute, and if a three-bladed beater, the 
speed should be proportionately less. 
The total weight of the lap at the 
front should be about 40 pounds or a 
16-ounce lap. These are put up at the 
intermediate picker and doubled 4 into 
1. The speed of this beater should be 
about 1,400 revolutions per minute, 
the total weight of the lap at the front 
being 35 pounds or a 14%-ounce lap. 
These laps are put up at the finisher 
picker and doubled 4 into 1. It is at 
this point that the 

CUT ROVING WASTE 

is mixed in, it having first been made 
into a lap after passing through a spe- 
cial process, in the proportion of one 
lap roving waste to three laps raw 
stock. The speed of this beater, if of a 
two-bladed rigid type, should be about 
1,350 revolutions per minute, which 
gives the cotton passing through it 
about 40 beats per inch. The total 
weight of the laps at the front should 
be about 35 pounds or a 12l^-ounce 
lap. A variation of half a pound either 
side of standard is allowed. Laps with 
a variation of more than the above 
should be treated as given in a pre- 
vious article. The laps are put up at 
the card, the draft of which should 
not be less than 100. The speed of the 
top flats should be one' complete revolu- 
tion every 45 minutes. The wire fillet 
used should be of medium fineness, 
about number 110 for cylinder and 
number 120 for the doffer and top 
flats. 

THE WEIGHT OF SLIVER 

at the front should weigh 65 grains 
per yard, the production for tho 40s 
and 60s yam being 650 pounds per 
week of 60 hours, and foi* the 20s 
yarn 750 pounds per week. This 
sliver is put through three 



processes of drawing, six ends 
up, the revolutions per minute of the 
front roll being 400 at the finisher 
drawing. The weight at the finisher 
drawing should be 70 grains per yard. 
The drawing should be sized three 
times a day, and if the variation is 
more than one grain per yard, the 
draft gear should be changed to keep 
the drawing at standard weight. The 
drawing sliver is put through the slub- 
ber and made into .50 hank roving. 

FLY FRAMES. 

The roving for 40s and 60s yarn is 
run through three processes of fly 
frames and for 20s is run through two 
processes. For 60s yarn the different 
hanks at each process are as follows: 
First intermediate, 1.50; second, 4; 
jack, 12 hank. For 40s yarn 
the details are as follows: First, 
1.40; second, 3.40; jack, 10. 
For 20s yam: First, 1.50; sec- 
ond, 4.50. The warp yarns are frame 
spun and for 40s use a frame the 
same as given in a previous lesson. 
For 20s use a frame having a gauge of 
2% inches, diameter of ring 2 inches, 
length of traverse 7 inches. 

The filling yarn may be either mule 
or ring spun; if the latter, use a frame 
having a gauge of 2% inches; diam- 
eter of ring, 1% inches; length of 
traverse, 5l^ inches; revolutions per 
minute of spindles, 8,000. The warp 
yarn is put through the spooler, 
warper and slashing machines and 
then is ready for the loom. 

A great many mills comb their fill- 
ing for weaving bedford cords. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

SLATE. 



Two per cent immedial black N B; 
2 per cent sodium sulphide: 2 per 
cent soda ash; 20 per cent Glauber's 
salt. 



PEARL. 



One-half per cent immedial direct 
blue B; % per cent Immedial black N 
B; 1 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per 
cent soda ash; 20 per cent Glauber's 
salt. 

BROWN. 

Three per cent immedial cutch O; 5 
per cent immedial brown R R; % per 
cent immedial black N B; 9 per cent 
sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 
30 per cent Glauber's salt. 

BLACK. 

ITifteen per cent immedial black N 



loG 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



N; 15 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per 
cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's 
salt. 

BOTTLE GREEN. 
Eight per cent immedial dark green 
B; 1 per cent imimedial yellow D; 9 
per cent sodium sulphide; 30 per cent 
Glauber's; 3 per cent soda ash. 

NAVY BLUE. 
Four per cent immedial indone B; 
4 per cent immedial indone R; 8 per 
cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda 
ash; 30 per cent Glauber's. 

RED. 
Six per cent benzo fast red 4 B; 30 
per cent Glauber's salt; 3 per cent sal 
soda. 

PINK. 
One per cent erika pink; 2 per cent 
sal soda; 20 per cent Glauber's salt 

SKY BLUE. 
Four per cent tetrazo sky blue F; 2 
per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's salt. 

IMPERIAL. PURPLE. 
On a tannine and tartar emetic mor- 
dant. Dye 2 per cent methyl violet 2 R. 



CHINTZ. 



Chintz is a fine, soft, cotton fabric, 
printed with elaborate designs of flow- 
ers and foliage in several colors. The 
fabric is used principally for house- 
hold purposes, such as lambrequins, 
coverings, etc. It is also utilized for 
such purpO'Ses as masquerade dresses 
and the like. 

Chintz is hut a plain woven fabric, 
elaborately ornamented with designs 
by means of the printing machine, sev- 
eral different colors being employed. 
From this point of view we will con- 
sider the fabric. 

COLORINGS FOR CHINTZ. 

There is practically no combination 
of colors that may not be used for the 
ornamentation of a fabric of this de- 
scription. However, the high-colored 
designs are most popular. Following 
are 

POINTS TO CONSIDER 

in planning a design for chintz, also 
colors to use. In the first place it is 
necessary to have a clear idea of what 
the main characteristics of the design 



are to be, before the work of arrange- 
ment is begun. The character of the 
design should be influenced largely by 
the purposes the fabric is intended for; 
this brings in the question of fitness, 
which is the application of a certain 
class of design to certain materials. It 
is evident that the style of desigi that 
would be suitable for a floor covering 
would be entirely unsuitable for a 
printed cotton fabric. The considera- 
tion of style is a subject that the de- 
signer is bound to be governed by, 
simply because the designs are for a 
commercial purpose; consequently in 
planning a design, the style, scale and 
character of the design, the material 
it is to be applied to, and its purposes 
should be understood by the designer. 
Chintz is 

A PURELY ORNAMENTAL FABRIC. 

The designs, therfore, may be rich, 
both in colors and design. In Figure 1 
we give an idea of the character of 
design used for fabrics of this de- 
scription. The ground may be a light 
shade of blue, the leaves and stems 
in two shades of green, while the flow- 
ers may have three shades of red 
graduating from pink to dark red; a 
happy blending of color is essential ro 
the well-being of a design. 

ANALYSIS. 

Inches. 

Width of warp in reed 36% 

Width of fabric flnished 35% 

Ends per inch finished. 72 

Ends id warp 2556 

Selvedge 24 

Total ends in warp 2580 

Reed 1250x2 

Take-up of warp during weaving, 5- 
per cent; weight of fabric finished, 
1% ounces per yard. 

Warp yarn 1-44 cotton. 

Filling 56 picks — 1-80 cotton. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

Chintz is usually woven on high run- 
ning speed looms, such as a Northrop 
loom. The warp is drawn in on eight 
harnesses, straight drafting. The 
warp yam is well sized so as to avoid 
breakages of the warp in the weaving. 

FINISHING. 

The fabric, after it comes from 
loom, is sent to the printing house, 
where it is boiled off, preparatory to 
the printing operation; chintz is not 
dyed; all the colors are applied by 
means of the color rolls in the print- 
ing machine. Several rolls are re- 
quired, each roll having a separate 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



157 



portion of the design and likewise a Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

separate color. The yarms of which chintz is com- 

After the printing, the fabric is posed are made in mills having the 




pasised through a. calender press, the second division of equipment of n:a~ 

rolls of which are well heated and chinery. The yams which miabe up 

tightly set, which gives the glazed fin- the sample under description are as 

ish which the fabric possessies. follows: filling yam No. 80s and warp 



158 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



yarn 44s. The tilling yam is made 
of good cotton of IVz inches staple. 
This is put through a bale breaker, as 
has been previously described. Either 
two or three processes of picking nnay 
be used, many overseers claiming the 
two-process method to be the better. 
The raw stock, after being allowed 
to stand in the mixing bin as long 
as possible to dry out, is put into the 
hopper of the opener, and after be- 
ing lifted up by the spiked apron 
■comes in time under the action of the 
lieater. This beater is provided with 
four arms, the blades of which are 
composed of leather. The speed of this 
beater for this kind of stock is 1,000 
revolutions per minute. 

THE "RAW STOCK 

is then passed to the breaker picker 
by an endless lattice. This lattice 
should be varnished frequently so as 
to make it smooth. This not only ap- 
plies to this lattice, but to all lattices 
in the picker room. The feed rolls of 
this machine compress die cotton into 
a condensed sheet and it is struck 
from these rolls by a beater. This is 
generally of a rigid type, having 
either two or three arms; if of two- 
blade type it makes about 1,500 revo- 
lutions per minute. The laps at the 
head end weigh 40 pounds or a IS- 
ounce lap. These laps are put up at 
the intemiediate and doubled 4 into 1. 
The speed of this beater is about 1.400 
revolutions per minute, the total 
weight of the lap heing 37 pounds or 
a 12-ounce lap. These laps are put up 
at the finisher pinker and doubled 4 
into 1. It is at this point that the 
cut roving is mixed in, as has been de- 
scribed in a previous article. The 
speed of this beater is 1.350 revolu- 
tions per minute if of a rigid two- 
bladed type; if the beater has three 
blades it rotates proportionately slow- 
er. The total weight of a lap at the 
front is 39 pounds or a 12-ounce lap. 

THE EVENNESS OP WORK. 

Ijook out to see that the eveners on 
all the pickers are in proper work- 
ing order, for remember the greater 
part of the evenness of a lap depends 
upon this part of the picker. See that 
the drafts are properly directed and 
of the right strength to do the most 
good. Keep the fly well cleaned out from 
under the machines and don't be 
afraid of oil. but get it in the proper 
place. Be sure and have everything 
neat and clean. The laps are put up 
at the card. It has always been a bone 
of contention whether it is proper to 
use a heavy lap and slow speed or 



light carding and higher speed. Heavy 
carding means low drafts, and light 
carding, so called, hiigh drafts. For this 
lesson light-weight carding will be 
used. The draft of the card should 
be 115, which gives a 45-grain 
sliver. Tlie speed of the flats should 
be one complete revolution every 40 
minutes. The speed of the licker is 
350 revolutions per minute. Strip 
three times daily and clean thorough- 
ly twice a day. Keep front of card 
free from fly waste all the time. The 
production of the card for a week of 
GO hours is 550 pounds. This is put 
through 

THREE PROCESSES OF DRAWING, 

the weight of the sliver at the finish- 
er being 60 grains per yard. The 
speed of the front roll is 400 revolu- 
tions per minute. The top rolls of a 
drawing frame should always be kept 
well vamishe'd. the leather being free 
from flutes, ridges, aicks; in fact, 
they should be in perfect shape. The 
drawing sliver is next put up at the 
slubber and made into .55 hank rov- 
ing. This is put through three proc- 
esses of fly frames, the hank roving 
at each process being asfollows: First, 
1.50 hank; second, 4.80 hank; fine or 
jack, IG hank. This roving may be 
taken to either the mule or ring spin- 
ning room. If to the latter, use a 
frame having the following particu- 
lars for spinning 80s yarn: Gauge of 
frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 
IVi', length of traverse, 5 inches; rev- 
olutions per minute of spindles, 7,400; 
twist per inch, 29.07. The 

YARN AFTER BEING TREATED 

in some manner to make it damp, 
is carried to the weave room. 
What has been said of the cot- 
ton for the filling yarn may also aj)- 
ply to the warp yarn with the follow- 
ing exceptions: In the picker room, 
length of staple, 1% inches; weight of 
lap at finisher picker, 40 pounds. In 
card room at the cards, draft not over 
105; speed of flats, one revolution m 
50 minutes. Production 675 to 700 
pounds, at drawing fraane, weight of 
sliver, 70 grains per yard; at slubber a 
.50 hank roving, which is nut through 
three processes of fly frames, the 
hank at each being as follows: First, 
1 50 hank: second, 4 hank: fine, 10 
hank. This is carried to the ring 
spinning room and made into 44s yarn 
on a frame with the follow- 
ing particulars: Gauge of frame, 
234. inches; diameter of ring, 
1% inches; length of traverse, 6 
inches; reA'^olutions per minute of 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



159 



spindles, 10,000; twist per inch, 29.65. 
The yarn is then spooled, boam 
warped, and these are run through the 
slasher, where the requisite number of 
ends is run on a warp beam at the 
head end. A good size mixing is as 
follows: Water, 100 gallons; potato 
starch, 54 pounds; Yorkshire gum, 2 
pounds; soap (white), 11/2 pounds; 
parafine wax about 1 pound. 



Printing Particulars. 

The colors for this style of goods are 
mostly light bright shades. 

LIGHT BLUE. 

Two ounces methyl blue B; 1 pint 
acetic acid. 10 degrees Tw. ; 2 pints 
water; 6 piuts gum water, 1:1; % 
pint acetic acid tannic acid solution, 
1:1. 

LIGHT GREEN. 

One and one-half ounces brilliant 
green crystals; 1 pint acetic acid, 10 
degrees Tw.; 2 pints water; 5 pints 
gum water. 1:1;% pint acetic acid 
tannic acid solution. 1 : 1. 

LIGHT PINK. 

One and one-half ounces rhodamine 
5 G; 3 pints water; 11/3 pints acetic 
acid, 6 degrees Tw.; 3 pints tragacanth 
solution, 70 — 1,000; V2 pint acetic acid 
tannine solution, 1 : 1. 

RED. 

Six ounces rhoduline red B; 2 pints 
water; 1% pints acetic acid, 10 degrees 
Tw.; 6 pints gum water, 1:1; IV2 
pints acetic acid tannine solution, 

1 : 1. 

LIGHT MAUVE. 

One-half ounce methyl violet 6 B; 

2 pints water; lVi2 pints acetic acid, 10 
degrees Tw.; 6 pints gum water, 1:1; 
% pint acetic acid tannine solution, 
1:1. 

ROYAL BLUE. 

Six and one-half ounces Victoria 
blue B; 11/^ pints acetic aoid,10 degrees 
Tw.; 2y2 pints water; 6 pints gum 
water, 1:1; 1^/2 pints acetic acid tan- 
nine solution. 1:1. 

LIGHT YELI;OW. 

Five ounces duramine I I; 1% pints 
acetic acid, 10 degrees Tw.; 1% pints 
water; 6 pints gum water, 1: 1; IVi 
pints acetic and tannin© solution, 
1 : 1. 

ROSE. 

Four ounces rhodamine 6G; 4% pints 
water; 3 pints acetic acid, 9 degrees 



Tw.; ?A/2 pints tragacanth solution, 
70 — 1,000; 1 pint acetic acid tannine 
solution, 1 : 1. 

LIGHT BROWN. 

Six ounces Bismarck brown G; 2 
pints acetic acid. 10 degrees Tw.; Vj, 
pint glycerine, 45 degrees Tw.; 2Vz 
pints water; 6 pints gum water, 1:1; 
3 pint acetic acid tannine solutio.i, 
1 : 1. 

LIGHT OLIVE. 

One pint of the light yellow color; 1 
pint of light brown color; % pint light 
green color; well mixed and strained 
through a cloth. With different pro- 
portions of these colors any shade can 
be obtained. 

These colors are well mixed in a 
tub or coipper pan, strained through a 
cloth, and printed in a printing ma- 
chine. The pieces are dried, steamed 
one hour, without pressure, passed 
through a bath of tartar emetic, soap- 
ed at 90 degrees F. , washed and dried. 

The pieces are then run through a 
starch mangle and starched, then cal- 
endered to finish required. 



ORGANDIE (Plain and Fipred). 



An organdie may be defined as a 
very fine translucent muslin, used ex- 
clusively for dress goods. 

The fabric is made in a variety of 
qualities as regards the counts of yarns 
used. This naturally influences the 
number of ends and picks per inch in 
the fabric. The fabric is also made in 
a variety of widths, ranging from 18 
to 60 inches. 

The fabric, as already mentioned, is 
used exclusively for dress goods. The 
plain organdie is very popular in pure 
white or bleached, although considera- 
ble quantities are dyed in solid colors 
of light shades, such as pale blue and 
various pinks, w'hile the figured organ- 
die is usually bleached, then printed 
with small floral designs. The printed 
design is usually in from two to four 
colors and in delicate shades in con- 
formity with the material. 

The design itself is also quite deli- 
cate. 

In a design for a fabric of this char- 
acter, the scale of the pattern should 
not be too large. It should not ex- 
ceed 4% inches in the repeating of it 
as the folds of the dress and the nu- 
merous seams would destroy the effect 



160 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



of the repeat if it were much larger. 

The accompanying sketch shows a 
design for the fabric in question; the 
design shows a rose spray rendered in 
a natural manner. A color scheme for 
the same would be to have the flowers 
pink or yellow, while the leaves and 
stems may be in green; this against a 
White ground should give a pleasing 
effect. A delicate design and color 
scheme are essential for this kind of 
fabric. Organdie, considered in rela- 
tion to cost, as a wearing material is 




quite an expensive fabric; however, the 
retail price apparently seems to dis- 
prove this fact. Our reason for the 
statement that the fabric is not an in- 
expensive material is that it has a 
finish peculiar to itself, so that when 
subjected to soap and water it 
will not have the same appearance as 
before. It loses its crisp feeling en- 
tirely: consequently an organdie is 
worn by many until soiled, then dis- 
carded. 

ANALYSIS. 

Width of warp in reed, 32 inches; 
width of fabric finished, 30y2 inches : 
ends per inch in reed, 76; ends in warp, 
2,440; ends per inch finished, 80. 

Reed, 1.400x2. 

Take-up of warp during weaving, 7 
per cent; weight of fabric, about 15 
yards to one pound. 

Warp yarn, 1-80 combed Sea Island. 
Filling, 1-20S combed Sea Island; 88 
picks per inch. 



LOOM REQUIRED. 

Organdie is but a plain woven fab- 
ric. The ornamentation of the figured 
fabric is effected by means of the 
printing press; consequently any 
smooth running high speed loom may 
be used in the weaving of this cloth. 
However, as the Northrop loom with 
warp stop motion would answer best, 
the warp may be drawn in straight on 
eight harnesses; in using a consider- 
able number of ends per inch, it is safe 
to use at least eight harnesses, so as to 
avoid heddle chafing. 

The warp preparatory to weaving is 
given a fair sizing with white gum in 
order to give it strength. 

FINISHING. 
The fabric is stiffened by sizing it 
with such ingredients as dextrine, dul- 
cine, albumen, casein, etc., after which 
it is run through the calender, which 
slightly glazes the surface of the fab- 
ric, thus completing the finishing proc- 
ess. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns of which organdies are 
composed require the equipment of 
machinery found in the second or 
third division of mills, as given in a 
previous lesson. This class of goods 
requires a very fine grade of cotton, 
and generally both warp and filling 
yarns are made of combed stock. The 
counts of yarn vary, according to the 
grade of goods to be made. In this 
article it will be considered that the 
make-up of the cloth is as follows: 80s 
warp and 120s filling yarn. These are 
made from Sea Island stock of 1% to 
1% inch staple. Sea Island cotton as a 
whole requires just as little picking as 
possible and still get the dirt out. Sea 
Island cotton is generally put through 
an opener and one process of picking, 
although some overseers use two 
processes. This stock is not put 
through the bale breaker, but is 

GENERALLY MIXED BY HAND. 

If any bales are found which are not 
up in grade and staple they should be 
placed one side and not put into the 
mixing. The mixing should be made 
from several bales at once, so as to get 
the mixing as even as possible. At 
this point the sliver waste from the 
machines up to the slubber is mixed 
i'l. The sliver should be pulled into 
short lengths so that it will not be so 
apt to become wound around the pin 
beater of the opener. The hopper 
should be kept more than half full. 
The cotton is passed from this machine 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



ICl 



directly to the finisher picker; the 
apron of this picker is divided up into 
yard lengths and the loose cotton is 
s.pread evenly over it. About lu 
ounces to the yard is the weight used. 
The beater for this class of goods is 
generally of a rigid two-bladed type, 
the speed of it being less than those 
that have been previously given. The 
speed of the beater is about 1,200 rev- 
olutions per minute, wnich gives the 
cotton of this length passing through 
the picker about 29 beats per minute. 
The total weight of the lap at the 
front of picker is 30 pounds, or a 10- 
ounce lap. The usual points that have 
been previously given should be looked 
out for and in addition the 

SPEED O*^ THE BEATER 

should be watched to see that 
it is not putting neps into the 
cotton. These laps are put up at 
the card, the draft of which should be 
higfh, not less than 125, and on some 
Sea Island stock the draft runs as 
high as 180. The card wire fillet used 
on the cylinder should be No. 120s 
(English count) and for the doffer and 
flats 130s. The flats should be speeded 
up to take out more flat waste or, in 
other words, the card with HO flats 
should make one revolution every 35 
minutes. The flats are speeded up by 
lagging the flat pulley on the maia cyl- 
inder shaft. Close settings should be 
used and these should be gone over 
every time the card is ground, which 
should be once every month. Grind 
lightly. Strip three times a day and 
keep the cards clean, especially the 
fronts. The weight of the sliver at 
the front should be about 45 grains per 
yard and the production about 225 to 
300 pounds per week of 60 hours. Be 
sure that the feed plate is set at the 
proper distance from the licker-in, so 
that the staple will not be broken. On 
most makes of cards the licker-in is 
speeded too high for this class of cot- 
ton, and better results will be obtained 
if the speed is dropped to 275 and not 
more than 300 revolutions per minute. 
It is claimed that a high speed of the 
licker-in tends to put neps into the 
cotton of long staple. 

THE LICKER-IN 

should be speeded so as to tear the 
sheet or lap apart and take out the 
seed, etc., left by the picker. The cot- 
ton is next taken to the sliver lap ma- 
chines and made into a lap. The 
weight of the lap should be about 300 
grains per yard. The doublings at 
the sliver lap are 14 into 1 when 6- 
head 9-incli lap combers are used, or 



20 into 1 when 8-head lOi^-inch laps 
are used. The laps from the sliver lap 
machine are doubled 6 into 1 at the 
ribbon lap machine, the weight of laps 
per yard being 280 grains. These laps 
are put up at the comber. The doub- 
lings at the comber depend on how 
many heads it has. For the past two 
or three years the comber builders 
have sold practically nothing but 8- 
head combers, so we will consider that 
the mill is equipped in this manner. 
The doublings would then be 8 into 1. 
For this class of goods from 22 to 25 
per cent waste is taken out and the 
weight of the sliver at the front is 48 
grains. This is put through 

TWO PROCESSES OF DRAWING 

the weight at the front of the fi-nisher 
drawing being about 60 grains per 
yard. 

Be sure to keep the top leather rolls 
well varnished and in good condition. 
See that all parts of the machine are 
working properly. 

The sliver is next put up to the slub- 
ber and made into .80 hank roving. In 
some mills the top leathers are var- 
nished and in addition to this, on long- 
stapled stock, larger top rolls are used 

This roving is put through three 
processes of fly frames for 120s filling 
yarn, the hank roving at each process 
being as follows: At the first inter- 
mediate 2.25 hank, at the second inter- 
mediate 6.50 hank and at the fine 
frame 24 hank. On this hank roving 
it is a good plan to either have self- 
weighted rolls on second intermediate 
and fine frames or run them without 
weights, all the weight being on the 
back top roll. The roving is then 
spun on a mule into 120s. 

Tlie slubber roving for the warp 
yam is put through three processes of 
fly frames, the bank roving, being as 
follows: At the first, 2. 25; at tto second, 
5 hank, and at the jack, 16 hank. Keep 
the top leather rolls in good condi- 
tion and watch the traverse motion. 
Look out for twist and don't get too 
much tension, so as to pull the roving 
when it is between the boss of the front 
roll and the flyer, as this tends to cause 
uneven roving. Don't let the hands 
cut the roving from the bobbin, and 
weigh the cut rcwing. This roving 
is taken to the ring spinning room 
and spun into SOs yam on a frame 
having the following particulars: 
Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter 
of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 
5Vi. inches; twist per inch, 39.08; speed 
of spindles, 9,600. From here it passes 
throiTgh the spooler and warper, and 
the beams for this machine are put up 



162 



A COTTON PABRICS GLOSSARY. 



at the slasher, and after passing 
through this machine the required 
number offends are run on to a warp 
at the front end. 

A GOOD-SIZED MIXING 

for 80s yam, if sley and pick are high, 
is as follows: Water,100 gallons; pota- 
to starch, 70 to 75 pounds; tallow, 7 
pounds; Yorkshire gum, 3 pounds; 
soap (white), 2 pounds. Boil 2 hours 
and let stand 10 hours before using. 
Keep agitator ininning and keep size 
mixing almost at boiling point. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

Following are dyeing particulars for 



organdie: 



PINK. 



Two ounces rhodamine pink 6 G; 1 
qt. water; l^/^ pints acetic acid 90 de- 
grees Tw.; 3 pints tragacanth solution 
70 : 1,000; % pints acetic acid tannine 
solution .1 : 1. 

LIGHT YELLOW. 

Four ounces thioflavine T; 2 qt. 
water; 1% pints acetic acid, 6 degrees 
Tw. ; 3 pints tragacanth solution .70: 
1,000; 1 pirit aceti-3 acid tannine solu- 
tion 1 : 1. 

PEACOCK BLUE. 

Four ounces turquoise blue G; 2 qt. 
water; 2 pints acetic acid, 9 degrees 
Tw.; 3 pints tragacanth solution 70 
: 1,000; 11/4 pints acetic acid tannine 
solution 1 : 1. 

ROSE. 

Four ounces brilliant rhoduline red 
B; 2 qt. water; 1% pints acetic acid, 
6 degrees Tw.; 3 pints tragacanth so- 
lution 70 : 1,000; 1% pints acetic acid 
tannine solution 1 : 1. 

BLUE. 

Four ounces methylene blue B B; 
2 qt. water; 2 pints acetic acid, 9 de- 
grees Tw.; 2 pints tragacanth solution; 
1% pints acetic acid tannine solution 
1 : 1. 

GREEN. 

Four ounces emerald green crj's- 
tals; 2% pints water; 2 pints acetic 
acid, 6 degrees Tw.; 3 pints tragacanth 
solution 70 : 1,000; IV2 pints acetic 
acid, tannic acid solution 1 : 1. 

LIGHT BROWN. 

Four ounces Bismarck brown B; 1 
qt. water; 2 pints acetic acid, 9 degrees 
Tw.; 3 pints tragacanth solution 70 : 
1,000; 11^ pints acetic acid tannic acid 
solution 1:1. 



SAGE GREEN. 

Mix together one gallon green color; 
iy4 gallon light yellow; % gallon light 
brown. 

VIOLET. 

One ounce methyl violet 4 B; 1 qL. 
water; 1^/4 pints acetic acid, 6 degrees 
Tw.; 6 pints gum water 1:1;% pint 
acetic acid tannine solution 1 : 1. 

SLATE. 

One gallon blue color; 1 pint light 
yellow; well mixed with Vz gallon 
tragacanth solution 70 : 1,000. 

The color is then strained through a 
cloth, and is ready to nrint. All the 
colors are well boiled in a copper pan. 
and strained through a cloth. After 
the printing process, they are dried, 
steaxned one hour without pressure, 
passed through a bath of tartar emet- 
ic, and soaped at 90 degrees P., rinsed 
and dried. The goods are starched and 
finished on a tenter frame. 



ALBATROSS CLOTH, 



Cotton albatross cloth is a plain 
fabric made in imitation of a worsted 
fabric of the same name. It is light 
in weight, and is used principally for 
dress goods. It is sometimes used 
instead of bunting for railroad flags. 
The ends and picks per inch are few 
and the width of the cloth is narrow. 

The items of construction for a cot- 
ton albatross are as follows: Warp. 
1,024 ends of No. 28s cotton; IC ends 
have been allowed for selvedges. 

Filling, 48 picks per inch of No. 36s 
cotton; 48 sley reed. 

Width in reed. 23 inches. 

Width finished. 21 inches. 

This fabric can be made very read- 
ily on an automatic loom, or on any 
of the light, fast running, single box 
cotton looms, four wire heddle har- 
nesses, or the regular twine harnesses, 
on the plain cotton loom only being 
required. If wire harnesses are 
used on a cam loom, the ends should 
be drawn through the heddles, 1, 3, 2, 
4. 

Being considered a fair quality of 
cloth, it is necessary to match the 
pick when weaving it. 

The goods are finished by being 
burled, sheared, washed, singed, dyed, 
rinsed, dried and pressed; care being 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



163 



taken not to press them too hard. 

The singeing process is sometimes 
omitted. 

Albatross cloth is generally sold in 
-white, black, or solid colors, being 
piece dyed. It is not used to any ex- 
tent for printing purposes. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns for aliiatross cloth are 
made in mills having the equipment of 
machinery found in the second divi- 
sion of mills, as given in a previous 
lesson. For this article , we will con- 
sider the filling yarn to-be number 36s. 
This would be made of 1%-inch sta- 
ple American cotton. The warp yarn 
is 28s count and may be made from 
the same state and grade of cotton. 
The mixing is done either by hand or 
by a bale breaker. The cotton, if 
mixed in the former manner, should 
be allowed to stand longer than if 
mixed by the latter method. This is 
to allow the cotton 

TO DRY OUT. 
At this point the good sliver waste 
from machines up to the slubber is 
mixed in, care being taken that the 
sliver is broken up into short lengths. 
The cotton is next put through an 
opener and either two or three proces- 
ses of picking (generally three). The 
opener hopper should be kept at least 
half full in order to always have an 
even amount of cotton fed to the break- 
er picker. This picker is generally pro- 
vided with a two-bladed, rigid beater, 
which rotates at a speed of 1,400 revo- 
lutions per minute. The 

TOTAL WEIGHT OF LAP 
at the front end of this picker is about 
40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap. These 
are put up at the intermediate picker 
and doubled four into one. This is al- 
so provided with a two-bladed, rigid 
type of beater, the speed being 1,500 
revolutions per minute. This style of 
beater is not always used, as will be 
noted later. The total weight of lap 
at the front is about 38 pounds or a 
12-ounoe lap. These laps are put up 
at the finisher picker and doubled four 
into one. At this point the laps of cut 
roving waste are mixed in in the pro- 
portion of one lap of cut roving to 
three laps of raw stock. The cut rov- 
ing is treated as before stated. 

THE FINISHER PICKER 
is equipped with either a rigid or what 
is called la pin beater. A great many 
mills are putting in this pin beater on 
stock up to 1 9-16-incli, claiming that 
the stock is more thoroughly cleaned. 
The speed of the pin beater (which 



has three arms) is higher than that of 
the rigid type, being 1,500 revolutions 
per minute, whereas a two-armed 
rigid type would be run about 1,450 
revolutions per minute. The pin beat- 
er can be run at a greater speed be- 
cause it does not strike the cotton a 
blow but rather tears it apart. If a 
two-bladed, rigid type of beater is 
used, it should be speeded up 
so as to give about 42 beats to each 
inch of cotton passing through. The 
total weight of lap at the front should 
be about 38 pounds. Laps varying 
more than one-half a pound either side 
of this standard should be run over 
again. Observe the general points 
about the picker room that have been 
given before. , The laps are put up at 
the card. For this grade of goods 

THE DRAFT 
should not be less than 100. Use me- 
dium wire filled, i. e.. No. 120s, for 
cylinder and No. 130s for doffer and 
flats. Speed of licker-in, 320, flats one 
revolution every 45 minutes; use 26- 
inch or large diameter doffer. Strip 
three times a day and grind cards all 
over once a month. Groove setting 
points frequently and watch the 
dead roller grinding wheel to see that 
it is straight. 

The weight of the sliver at the front 
should be ahout 65 grains, the pro- 
duction being 700 pounds per week of 
60 hours. The card sliver is put 
through three processes of drawing, 
the weight at the front being 70 grains 
per yard. 

WATOH THE CLEARERS 
to see that they are in proper condi- 
tion. Metallic rolls may be used on 
this class of work to great advantage. 
If leather top rolls are used, keep 
them up in good shape. The drawing 
sliver is run through the slubber and 
made into .55 hank roving. This is 
put through three processes of fly 
frames for the filling yam, the hank 
roving at each process being as fol- 
lows: 1st, 1.50; 2d, 3.50, and jack, 8.25 
hank. 

We will consider that the filling 
yarn is taken to the ring spinning 
room, where it would be spun in 36s 
yarn on a frame having the following 
particulars: Gauge of frame, 2% 
inches-; diameter of ring, 1% inohes; 
length of traverse, 5i/^ inches; speed 
of spindles, 8,900 revolutions per 
minute. After being treated to make 
it damp, the filling is taken to the 
weave room and woven as given 
above. The roving for the warp yarn 
^ is put through two processes of fiy 
■^ frames, the hank roving at the first 



.104 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



latfefmediate being 1.75 and at the 
.jack 5.50 hank. This yarn is spun in- 
to 2Ss yarn on a ring frame having 
the following particulars: Gauge of 
frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% 
:inches; length of traverse, QV2 inches; 
■siyeed of spindles, 9,700 revolutions per 
lliinute. The warp yarn is then tal^en 
to the spoolers; from here to the 
warpers, and the warps are put up at 
the slasher, the required number of 
ends being run upon a beam at the 
head end. 



Dyeing Particulars. 
LIGHT PINK. 
One-half pound Erika pink; 20 
pounds Glauber's; 2 pounds sal soda. 

SKY BLUE. 
One pound diamine sky blue F F; 20 
pounds Gliauber's; 2 pounds sal soda. 
LIGHT SLATE. 
One per cent katigen blue black B; 
3 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's; 1 per cent sodium sulphide. 
OLD GOLD. 
Two per cent diamine catechine 3 G; 
2 per cent diamine fast yellow B; Vs 
per cent diamine black B H; 30 per 
cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 
LIGHT SAGE GREEN. 
One-half per cent chloramine yel- 
low M; 116 per cent benzo fast orange, 
S; Vs per cent benzo fast blue B N; 20 
per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 
LIGHT BROWN. 
One-half per cent diamine brown 
B; V2 per cent diamine fast yellow B; 
li per cent diamine catechine 3 G; 20 
per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 
LIGHT GREEN. 
One per cent diamine sky blue F F; 
1 per cent diamine fastt yellow F F; 
30 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
sodia. 

PEARL. 

Oie-quarter per cent immedial di- 
rect blue B; Vi per cent immedial 
black N G; % per cent sodium sul- 
phide; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per 
cent soda ash. 

BLACK. 

Fifteen per cent immedial black N 
N; 15 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per 
cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's. 
NAVY BLUE. 

Twelve per cent thiogene blue B; 22 
per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's. 
DARK BROWN. 

Ten per cent thiogene brown G; 6 



per cent sodium sulphide; 30 per cent 
Glauber's; 3 per cent soda ash. 
BOTTLE GREEN. 

Ten per cent pyrogene green B; 12 
per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's. 
ROSE. 

Mordant for 200 gallons water; 31/3 
pounds tannic acid; run through, ou 
jig machine, for one hour. Pass 
through a clean bath of two pounds 
tartar emetic for 200 gallons water 
half hour; wash and dye. Two pounds 
rhodamine 5 G. 

ROYAL BLUE. 

Mordant as rose. Dye, l^/^ per cent 
"Victoria blue B. 

ROYAL PURPLE. 

Mordant as rose. Dye, %, per cent 
methyl violet R. 



TARLTON, 



Tarlton is a fine, open, transparent 
muslin, somewhat similar to an organ- 
die in the feel and finish, though a 
much coarser fabric. The cheaper grade 
of tarlton resembles a mosquito netting. 
Mosquito netting, however, is in a leno 
weave, while tarlton is but a plain 
woven fabric. The goods are piece 
dyed and may be seen m any color; 
some are finished in pure white or 



4 ^ V 

- f 1 7 

-^-^ ^ 7 

— ± * ^ 

-l.—t ^ , J- 



Fig 1. Urawing-in Draft. 
(2 repeats.) 

bleached. The fabric is used for va- 
rious purposes, the finer qualities for 
women's wear. The fabric is princi- 
pally used for draping and decoralting 
purposes, for foundations for ladies' 
hats, for bunting around bird cages, 
for a twofold purpose — first to prevent 
the birdseed from being scattered to 
the floor, and second, as a decorative 
feature. Briefly we may say that the 
fabric is intended chiefly for drap- 
i"g and decorating purposes, especial- 
ly the cheaper grades, the meshes of 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSiSARY. 



165 



which, are so open that hardly any 
lady would care to wear a dress made 
of it, unless she were lanxious to exhib- 
it the garments which she would be ob- 
liged to wear under it. The grade of 
tarlton under consideration, of which 
an analysis will follow, is entirely too 
flimsy for a dress fabric. If the goods 
are taken between the thumb and 
forefinger with any degree of firmness 
and the surface of the fabric is drawn 
between them, the threads w;ill readily 



■■nn 
Fig. 2. 

give, or leave their original place. This 
would certainly be a poor feature in 
a fabric intended for dress goods. The 
fabric is woven in com/paratively wide 
widths; the coarser qualities are com- 
monly 58 inches in reed, including 
selvedge. The selvedge is about % of 
an inch, two ends in one heddle, while 
the body of goods is drawn one end in 
one heddle, and each end into a sep- 
arate dent in the reed. 



harnesses, in the following order: 1, 3, 
2, 4, the chain being built accordingly 
so as to give a plain weave. The warp 
is sized before it is put on the warp 
beam. 

ANALYSIS. 

Width of warp in reed, 58 inches. 
Finished width, 52i^ inches; ends por 
inch finished, 20; picks per inch finish- 
ed, IS. 

Reed, 650x1. 

Ends in warp, 1,010; SO ends sel- 
vedge, two ends in one heddle; total, 
1,090 ends. 

The take-up during the weaving is 
very little; the take-up in the finished 
goods, about 1 per cent. After the 
fabric is finished the threads lie prac- 
tically straight; this is due to the 
openness of the jnesh. This readily il- 
lustrates that the closer the weave, 
the more take-up of warp yarn. 

Warp yarn, l-50s cotton. Filling, 
l-SOs cotton. Finished weight, 10 
yards equal 7 ounces. The finished 
fabric carries about 12 per cent of siz- 
ing. 

FINISHING. 

After the fabric is taken from the 
loom, it is sent to the dj/ehouse. The 




T'AROLTON. 



The goods in weaving have a tend- 
encj' to roll up, that is, the selvedges 
i-oll toward the middle of the fabric; 
this is overcome by holding out the 
selvedges by means of the temple. The 
temple also prevents the chafing of 
the warp during weaving. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

Any light-built loom with a compar- 
atively high running sipeed will answer 
for weaving tarltons, providing it 
is wide enough in the reed space. 
The warp is usually drawn in on four 



first process is to boil it off, in order 
to rid it of all foreign matter i)ossible; 
then it is dyed or bleached as required. 
After this process and ;i±"ter the fabric 
is dried, it is then immersed in size. 
Sizing the fabric is usuailly done in 
front of the drying cylinders. The goods 
pass from the size trough on to the 
drying cylinder, which practically com- 
pletes the finishing process. 

The goods are then doubled and put 
on to boards in the form of rolls, after 
which they are ready for the market. 



166 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The machinery required to make the 
counts of yarn of which tairlton is 
made will be found in the secoind di- 
vision of mills, as givea in a previous 
article. The counts used for this class 
of goods diifer slightly, but for this 
article we will consider the counts to 
be l-50s for the warp yani and 1-SOs 
for the fijling yarn. These yarns are 
made of American cotton of about 1%- 
inoh staple. This cotton is first mixed 
by hand, as large a quantity being 
mixed .-it one time as possible. In fact, 
two large mixings should be made so 
that one batch may be drying out 
while the other is being used. At this 
point the good sliver from all the ma- 
chines up to the slubber is mixed in, 
it being collected at regular intervals 
from the machines. An eye should be 
kept on this 

WASTE 
by the one in charge to see that too 
much waste is not being made at any 
one machine and also to see that it i.s 
broken up into short lengths before be- 
ing put into the mixings. Long lengths 
of sliver v/aste are apt to wind around 
the various rotating parts of the open- 
er and cause a "bung up," which re- 
quires time to remove and also is apt 
to cause a fire. 

If trunking is used tO' connect the 
opener to the breaker picker, be sure 
that no scraps of iron or other m.etal 
are around where they can work into 
the cotton, as this is also- apt to cause 
a fire by 'Coming in contact with the 
metallic parts of the machine and 
striking a spark.which ignites the oth- 
er cotton very quickly and often causes 
a fire on account of the currents of air 
which fan it into a flame. Keep the 
hopper full of cotton for reasons pre- 
viously given. The 

SPEED OF THE BEATER 
(two-bladed rigid type) of the opener 
is 1,500 revolutions per minute; the 
total weight. of lap at the front is 40 
pounds. These are doubled four 
times at the intermediate piicker. The 
beater of this machine may be either 
of a rigid type or a pin beater. If of 
a rigid type it makes 1,400 revolutions 
per minute; if a pin beater, 1,450 rev- 
olutions per minute. The total weight 
of lap at the front of this machine is 
38 pounds or a 12-ounce lap. These laps 
are* put up at the finisher picker and 
doubled 4 into 1. At this machine the 
cut-roving waste is mixed in with the 
raw stock in the proportion of one 
lap of cut waste to three laps of 
raAV stock. The cut-roving is first put 
through a process to take out the 



twist and then run through a picker to 
form it into a lap. The beater of this 
machine may be either a rigid or a pin 
type. If the former, its speed should 
be 1,450 revolutions per minute; if the 
latter, 1,500 revolutions per minute. 
The 

T0T.4L AVEIGHT OF LAP 
at the front of this machine should be 
38 pounds or a 14% -ounce lap. At this 
jnachine all laps are weighed, and if 
they vary one-half pound from the 
standard weight they should be put up 
at the back and run over again. Al- 
ways keei> a supply of laps ahead in 
case of breakdowns, etc. The laps are 
then put up at the cards. The speed 
of the licker-in should be about 325 
revolutions per minute; flats should 
make one complete revolution every 55 
minutes. The card clothing should be 
110s for cylinder and 126s for doifer 
and flats. Use a large doffer (either 
26 or 27 inch diameter). Strip cards 
three times a day and see that they are 
ground all over once a month a whole 
day (twice a month grinding half a 
day is better). 

ALWAYS GRIND LIGHTLY. 
The card clothing s^hould be looked af- 
ter at intervals to see that it is not 
faced or hooked. Before grinding, all 
jams should be taken and flats should 
be kept free from cotton embedded in 
the wire fillet. 'After grinding, the 
parts should be set in proper rela.- 
tion to each other. The sliver at the 
front for the class of goods under de- 
scription should weigh 65 grains per 
yard and the production should be 
about 700 pounds per week of 60 hours. 
The cotton should be run through 
three processes of drawing frames. It 
will be found 

A GREAT ADVANTAGE 
to run metallic top rolls for this grade 
of goods. The weight of the sliver at 
the finisher drawing should be about 
65 grains, the doublings at each process 
of drawing being 6 into 1. The hank 
roving at the slubber should be about 
.55. The slubber rovihg for both the 
warp and filling roving should be put 
through three processes of fly frames, 
the hank roving being as follows: for 
warp, first, 1.5i> hank; second, S.&O 
hank; jack, 10 hank; for filling yarn, 
first, 1.50; second, 4 hank; jack, 16 
hank. 

The roving for warp yam should be 
taken to the ring spinning room and 
spun into 50s count on a frame having 
the following ))articulars: Gauge of 
frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, V/z 
inches; length of traverse, 6 inches; 
revolutions per minute of spindle, 10,- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



167 



000. The yaTn is then spooled and 
warped and several warps put up at 
the slaslier and the required number of 
ends run on to a beam at the front. 
The filling yarn is spun into 80s on a 
fran;e having the following particu- 
lars: Gauge of frame, 2?4incheis; di- 
ameter of ring, 11/4 inches; length of 
traverse, 5 inches; revolutions per 
minute of spindle, 7,400. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

Tarltons are dyed on the jig ma- 
chine, or the color is boiled up in the 
starchdn-g process with the starch.. The 
dyed colors, being faster, are mostly 
used. The following color is an ex- 
ample of a starched dyeing: 

ORANGE. 
One gallon of water; 6 ounces dex- 
trine; 2 ounces tetrazo orange C R. 
Mix cold. Boil for 30 minutes. Pass 
the pieces through a starch mangle, 
and dry on tenter frame. All one-dip 
colors can be dyed after this form.ula 
and any shade produced by varying 
the am.ount of color. 

RED. 

Three per cent tetrazo red B; 20 per 
cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 
PINK. 
Four ounces benzo fast pink 2 B L; 
10 per cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal 
soda. 

LEMON YELLOW. 
One-half per cent chrysophenine; 10 
per cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal soda, 
GREEN. 
Three per -cent brilliant benzo green 
B; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent 
sal soda. 

WINE. 
Two per cent diamine Bordeaux B; 
20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

SCARLET. 
Two per cent diamine scarlet B; ;J5 
per cent Glauber'?; 2 per cent sal soda. 
LIGHT BROWN. 
One-half per cent diamine oateohine 
G; I'o per cent diamine brown B; 20 
per oeut Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 
SLATE. 
One per cent diamine black B H; 20 
per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal so- 
da. 

SKY BLUE. 
One per cent diamine sky blue F F; 
20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

NAVY BLUE. 
Three per cent diamine blue R W; 



20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

BLACK. 
Five per cent diamine jet black O O; 
20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

MAUVE. 
One-half per cent diamine violet N; 
20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

GRAY. 
One per cent diamine gray G; 20 per 
cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 
ROSE. 
One-half per cent diamine rose B 
D; 15 per cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal 
spda. The pieces are starched and 
dried on a tenter frame. 



BROCATELLE, 



Brocatelie is a coairse brooaded or 
figured fabricof cotton and wool or silk 
and linen or cotton, used for tapestry 
and upholstery and sometimes used 
for dveisses. The brocatelle used for 
dresses is much .finer and necessarily 

lighter in weight than the fabinic used 
for upholstery purposes. 

We will here consider the fabrics 
used for upholstery purposes only. 
This may be classed as a double cloth 
fabric, with t'v^'o warips and two fill- 
ings, a face warp and weft amd a back 
wiarp and weft. Theses vrarps amd fill- 
ings, however, Interweajve with one an- 
other, thereby binding together the 
two sets of warp and filling threads, 
with this peculiariity, that the face 
warp threads do not show on the ba.ck 
of the fabric nor does the back filling 
show on the faice of the fabric, while.on 
the contrary, the face filling shows on 
the back and the back warp threads 
show on the face. 

The face warp threads give boidy to 
and also form the ornomentail fea- 
ture of the fabric, which is the naised 
or brocaded figure in the cloth. 

These threads, when not forming the 
figure, lie buried between the face and 
back filling picks. The figure thus 
formed is usually of an eight harness 
sateen v.'-eave, the ends floating over 
seven back filling picks and under one. 
while the back filling is used princi- 
pally to give weight to the fabric and 
accentuate the raised figure. 

Brocatelle, as already menlCioned, is 
made with silk and wool, linen or cot- 
ton; the face is of silk, while the bajck 
has wool, linen or cotton, depending 
on the quality of fabric desired.as does 



IGS 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



also the quialiity of silk used in the fab- 
ric. 
The yams in all inistanoes are 
DYED BEFORE WEAVING. 
The colors and number used depend 
upon the prevailing fashion. Some 
broeatelles are made up of soveirai col- 
ors on the face of the goods, wliile 
again others have but two — ithe figure 
amd ground colors. The figure color 
is usually darker than tlie ground. For 
example, a dark olive may be used for 
figure color, that is, the face warp 
threaid'S, while the ground color, face 
fill ins; piciis, may be a light salmon. 
The l)aclf warp is usually the same aa 
the fac:e filling, while the back filling 
usually blends off to a lig'Mer shade 



Dressiing, 4 ends olive 50-2 silk; 

1 end salmon 2-llOs cotton; total, S 
ends per warp pattern. 

190 ends i)er inch in reed; reeded S 
ends 50-2 silk and 2 ends 2-llOs cotton 
in one dent; 19x10 dent read. 

Ends per inch finished 200;. fin- 
ished width of fabric, 49.4 inches. 

Pilling: 116 picks per inoh; 58, 21s 
silk salmon; 58, 28s linen light olive; 
total 116. 

Linen 300 yards per pound; 10s cot- 
ton. 

Filling aarangement: 1 pick 21s 
silk face; 1 pick 28s linen back; to^tal, 

2 picks, repeat. 

Weiigtht per \-ard of fimisihed fabric^ 
14,83 ounces. 




Fig. 1. 



of olive. The object is to hjave the 
colors blend well together and at the 
same time form a hiarmoinious oonti^ast. 
The ornamental feature of broca- 
telles is elaborate conventionalized 
floral figures which cover the greater 
portion of the surface of the fabric, 
about 75 per cent. The figures are bold 
and rich, repeating about 41/^ times 
across the width of the fabric. Fig. 1 
gives an idea of the character of de- 
sign used. This is about one-half the 
s'ize it would be in the fabric. 

THE CONSTRUCTION 
is as follows: 

7,904 ends 50-2 silk face warp. 
1,970 ends 2-1 10s cotton back warp. 
16 ends 4-20s white cotton selvedge. 

9,896 ends in warp. 



Weig'ht of various yarns used: 
G.04 Oiunces face warp. 
2.60 ounces face filling. 

.70 ounce back warp. 
5.46 oiunces back filling. 

.03 ounce selvedge. 



14.83 ounces. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 
Brocatelle requires a heavy jacquai-d 
loom. A Cromptun & Knowles com- 
bined broad loom, slow speed, would 
be a good one. The patterns require 
from 400 to 1,200 ends and over, in 
order to repeat. Consequently, a ma- 
chine that can operate the required 
nuraher of endis is essential for the 
production of these fabrics. "When a 
greait number of ends are required for 
the repeat of the pattern, two ma- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



1C9 



chines are combined; for example, 2-noo 
maohinies wiill oiperate a 1,200 end pat- 
teirn, but uisiu.ally a French or fine in- 
dex mac'hinie iis used that will operate 
the required number of ends. 

The pattern to be AVoven is first 
stamped on cards bj' means of a card 
cutting machine. This machine con- 
sists of a painoh box, conitaining 13 
pundhes; If a 600 machine, 25; if a 1,- 
200 machime, 24 for cutting the small- 
er holes and one for the peg holes. 
Theise ■caT'ds, -when placed on the jac- 
quard .machine over tihe loom, bear a 
direct relation to the warp threads, 
raisiing and dropping them according 
to the patteTn. The warp threads In 
the drawing in aire kept tepiarate froan 
each Oither; thait is, the face warp 
threads are drawn throug'h certain 
jniails as likewise are the back warp 
threads, although both sets of threads 
are represented on the one card. 

FINISHING. 

These fabrics reiquire no finishing. 
They are smoothed and folded and 
then are ready for the 'jpholsiterer. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The mills which make the cotton 
yarns for brocatelle wili be found in 
the second and sometimes the first di- 
vision of mills, as given in a previous 
lesson. Brocatelle is a fabric made up 
in many different fibres, but the fabric 
under ilescription is composed of silk 
and cotton, the back warp and sel- 
vedge being composed of cotton yarns. 
It is these yams that we will deiscribe. 
The cotton back warp yarns are 2-J.lOs 
cotton yarns. while theselvedge is com- 
posed of ')-20s cotton yarns. The cot- 
ton used for the back warp of this 
count would be of a good American 
cotton of about 1 9-1 G inch staple. This 
yarn should be put through a bale 
breaker and carried to the bins by 
means of a blower and trunking. This 
will insure the cotton at this point'be- 
ing dry, and in a more "picked out"' 
state than when hand mixing is done. 
The cotton is mixed at the bale 
breaker in the usual mauner.each bale 
being tjrst stapled to make sure that 
the cotton is all up to standard. 

COTTON MUST BE DRY. 

If the mixing is done by hand it 
sliould be allowed to stand as lon.g as 
possible before using, so that it will be 
thoroughly dry. Too much care fjannot 
be taken at this point as all carders 
know what trouble damp cotton makes. 
The good sliver wa.ste from the ma- 
chines up to the slubber is mixed in at 



this point, care being taken to see that 
only the cotton of the same grade and 
length of sitaple is thrown into the bin. 
This waste should not be put all In 
one place, but should be distributed all 
over the top and front or back of tt»e 
mixing. The cotton is next run 
through an opener and 

THREE PROCESSES OF PICKING. 

At the opener the hopper should be 
kept well filled so as to^ feed the break- 
er picker an even sheet. The breaker 
piclier beiater is generally of the rigid 
type, either two or three blades being 
used. 

If two bliarieis are used, the speed 
should be about 1,500 revolutions ji<!r 
minute; if three bladea. the spned 
should be pT-oiportionately slower. The 
total weight of the lap at the front 
is 37'A pounds or a 14-ounce lap. These 
laps are doubled four times at the in- 
termediate. This picker is generally 
provided with a two-bladed beater, the 
speed of which for this class of cotr.on 
should not exceed 1,450 revolutions per 
minute. Some overseers 

PREFER A PIN BEATER 

at the machine and a rigid beater at 
the finisher and some .just the reverse. 
If a bin beater is used, the fan does 
not have to be run at su(;h a high rate 
of speed, as this beater creates consid- 
erable draught Itself. The total weight 
of the lap at this picker is ?>G pounds 
or a 13-ounc'e lap. These are put up 
at the finisher picker and doubled 4 
into 1. Tlie speed of thi.s beatrr, two- 
bladed rigid type. Is 1,400 revolntions 
per minute. The total weight of the 
lap is 35 pounds or a 1214-ounce lap. 
The cotton at this picker receives 42 
beats per minute. The laps are put 
up at the card. The licker-in srjeed 
should be about "50 revolutions per 
minute. The top flats riiake one com- 
plete revolution in 40 niinutes. The 
cards should be ground and set once a 
month, stripped three timos a day and 
cleaned and oiled twice a day; keep the 
front of the cards always clean Irom 
flJ^ etc. Collect flat strips at regular 
intervals, not too long apart, so that 
they will fall over the doffer and not 
get into the good work. The sliver «t 
the front should weigh GO grains per 
yard, and the production should be 550 
pounds per week of 60 hours. This 
sliver is put through 

THREE PROCESSES OF DRAWING. 

The ton rolls us^d may be eiither me- 
tallic or leather top rolls. These sh^ould 
he looked out for at all times, but 
especially so in hot wea.rher to seie that 
they are in perfect condition. Kee^p 



170 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



sweaty .hands off of the varnish 
on the rolls. Varnish rolls frequently. 
A small piece of borax In the mixture 
■vvill help hardjen the varnish. The 
weight £)f the sliA'er at the finisher 
drawing is 60 grains peir yard. \'Vhea 
the weight is kept ait the drawings, 
they should be sized at least three 
times a day. This is tlieu put through 
the sluhber and made into .55 hank. 
The roving- is then put through three 
processes of fly frames, the hank rov- 
ing at each process being as follows: 
First. 2.25; second^ 6.50, and jack. IS.bO. 
The roving is next spun into 110s on 
a frame having the following particu- 
laxs: Diameter of ring, 1% inches; 
length of traverse, 5 inches; speed of 
spindle, 9,400 revolutions per minute. 
This is then spooled, and twisted into 
2-ply yam and then run on a warper 
and through a slasher. 

COTTON USED FOR SELVEDGE. 

The cotton to make the selvedge 
yarn is 1^,4-inch staple. At the pickers 
the changes from the above are as fol- 
lows: Speed of beater, breaker, 1,500 
revolutions per minute; initermediate, 
1,450 revolutions per minute and fin- 
isher, 1,450 revolutions per minute. 

The weights of the laps are as fol- 
lows: Breaker, 40 pounds or a 16-ounce 
lap; intermediate, 37 pounds or a 12- 
ounce lap; finishe)',35 pounds or a 12%- 
ounce lap. At the cards note the fol- 
lowing changes from the back warp 
yarn: Speed of top flats. 1 revolution 
every 50 minutes; weight of sliver, 65 
grains, pei- yard; production per week 
of 60 hours. 750 pounds. 

Draft of card should not be over 100. 
At the finisher drawing the weight of 
sliver at the finisher is 70 grains per 
yard. It is 

AN ADVANTAGE 

to use metallic top rolls on this stock 
at the drawing frame. Slubber roving 
should be .55 hank. There should be two 
processes of fly frames, the hank rov- 
ing at each process being as follows: 
First intermediate, 1.75 hank; second, 
5 hank. The moving is then taken to 
the spinning room and spun inJto 20s 
j'-am on a frame, the particulars of 
which have been given before. The 
yarn Is then spooled and twisted into 
4-ply 20s. 



ber's salt and 3 per cent sulphuric acid. 
For 100 poimds wool yarn: 

LIGHT SLATE. 
Four ounces patent blue B; % 
ounce oranige I I. 

OLIVE BROWN. 
One per cent orange II; % ounce 
laniafuchsiinie S B; 4 ounces fast y«llow 
S; 1 ounce indigo blue N. 

LIGHT BROWN. 
Two per cent orange 1 1, 1% per cent 
fast yellow extra; 4 ounces azo crim- 
son L; 6 ounces fast green B. 
OLIVE GREEN. 
One and three-ciuarters per cent in- 
digo blue N; 1 per cent troipaeo'line O 
O. 

GREEN. 
Two and one-half per cent Indigo 
blue N; V2 per oent fast yellow S; 1% 
tropjaeoline O O. 

BLACK. 
Five per cent palatine black 4 B. 

VIOLET. 
Two per cent acid violet 4 B N. 

SCARLET. 
Two per cent palajtinie scarlet 4 R. 

SA.LMON. 
One and one-half ounceis rtoda- 
raine 5 G; 20 grains eosine yellowish. 
ROSE. 
Five per cent rhodamine G. 
LAVENDER. 
One ounce adid violet 4 B N; 30 
grains orange I I: 100 gTaiins fast acid 
violet 10 B. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

The colors are dyed on the silk, wool, 
or cotton, in the yam. The colore 
used depend on the prevailing fashion. 

The following wool colors are dyed 
in the acid bath of 20 per cent Glau- 



SILK COLORS. 

Silk yarn is dyed in the soap bath 
with the addition of acetic aoid. 
SALMON. 
One ounce rhodamine 5 G. 

LIGHT liAVENDER. 
One-quarter acid violet 4 B N; 100 
grains rhodamine G. 

OLIVE GREEN. 
One per cent fast green B; 1 per 
cent fast yellow Ex.; 4 ounces onange 
I I. 

ROSE. 
One per cent rhodamine 5 G. 

NAVY BLUE. 
Tv/o per cent indigo blue N; 4 
ounces acid violet 2 B N. 
RED. 
One per cent fast red R. 
LIGHT GREEN. 
One per cent acid Victoiia green S N. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



171 



LIGHT YELLOW. 

T\)ur ounces tartarzine S. 

COTTON COLORS. 
BLUE. 
Four pei- cent brilliant benzo blue 6 
B: 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 pier cent 
Bai soda. 

LIGHT BROV/N. 
Two per cent diaanine brown E: 1 
per cent diamine fast yellow B; 20 per 
cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sial soda. 
OLIVE BROWN. 
Three per cent cMoriamine yellow M; 
y2. per cent benzo dark green B; % per 
cent benzo brown B. 
TAN. 
One-half per cent benzo fast orange 
S; 2 per cent chrysopheiiinie; 2 ounces 
benzo fast black. 

GREEN. 
Eight per cent immedial green G G; 
S per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent 
f^oda ash; 30 per cewt Glaubeir's salt. 
NAVY BLUE. 
Ten per cent immedial indone 3 B; 
10 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. 
OLIVE. 
Five per cent pyrogene olive G; 5 
per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per cent 
soda ash: 20 per cent Glauber's salt. 
RED. 
Five per cent benzo irasit red 4 B S; 
80 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 



TERRY PILE FABRICS, 



Terry is a fabric in which the dis- 
tinguishing effect is small loops of 
warp yarn, uncut pile, projecting from 
one or both sides of the cloth, these 
loops being tied to the ground cloth in 
regular or irregular order as desired. 

The terry principle of construction, 
which has been developed with the pow- 
er loom, is used extensively in the 
manufacture of cotton terry toweling, 
known generally as Turkish toweliag. 

These towels are made in various 
sizes and grades from the cheap fab- 
rics made almost entirely from waste 
yarns to those made of the best qual- 
ity of cotton obtainable. 

Terry pile is the simplest of the 
man J' types of warp pile goods, the ef- 
fect being obtained without the use of 
wires. 



Two warps are required: (a) the 
ground warp; (b) the pile warp. 

The ground warp contains the sel- 
vedge and ground ends, and is wound 
on the regular loom beam. This beam 
is heavily weiighted in the loo^m. The 
■pile warp is usually wound on a light 
beam and is allowed to let off the warp 
very easily. 

The reason for the difference in ten- 
sion on the warps is to allow the 
ground warp to remain tight and the 




Fto- s. 




pile warp to go forward easily when it 
is required to loop. 

Figs. 1, 2 and 3 will serve to illus- 
trate the relation of a terry design to 
the cloth. Circles iRdicate picks; 
dotted lines, ground ends; continuous 
lines, pile ends. The numbered ends 
in each figure correspond. 

Assuming F tO' represent the fell of 
the cloth, and the last pick of a re- 
peat, Fig. 2 shows how the three .suc- 
ceeding picks A, B and C would appear 
when about to be driven to the fell of 
the cloth, and Fig. 3 a section of the 
cloth with the loop completed. 

Figs. 4, 5 and 6 illustrate a design 
and sectional view of a terry cloth in 
which the pile is distributed on one 
side of the cloth only. Cloth of this 
type is used for furniture coverings 
and as a ground for embroidered ef- 
fects. 

Figured terry goods are made by 
combining colored yarns and terry 



172 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



effects, the terry being thrown on eith- 
er side when the other is weaving a 
ground weave. The face and back are 
reversible. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

In order to weave terry toweling a 
dobby loom differing from the ordi- 
nary loom is required. The principal 
point of difference is in its having 
mechanism to allow two (ia three-pick 
terry) out of three picks to be beat- 
en up to within a certain distance of 
the fell of the cloth, this distance de- 
pending upon the length of pile de- 
sired, then forcing these two picks, 
along with every third pick, to the 
fell of the cloth. 

The object of this is to allow the 
first two picks to fasten themselves 
into the pile ends, say one-half inch 
from the cloth, so that when the three 
picks are driven home together the 
pile ends will gO' along with them,mak- 
ing a, loop slightly less than % inch. 
At the same time the three picks will 
slide over the ground ends, these in- 
terlacing with the filling as in an or- 
dinary cloth. 

To accomplish the three-pick move- 
ment to form the loop one of two 
methods is adopted: (a) By a rocking 
or oscillating reed which is held back 
or forced to the fell of the cloth as de- 
sired; (b) by a rocking whip roll and 
back roll terry motion. With this de- 
vice the reed is held firm, the cloth be- 
ing moved back toward the rear of the 
loom every third pick. A backward 
and forward moveiment, similar to that 
of the cloth, is imparted to the temples. 
The length of pile can be varied as de- 
sired, or the weave can. be changed 
from terry to regular, or from regular 
to terry as required. 

A loom for weaving terry towels, be- 
sides having mechanism for making 
the pile, contains mechanism for one 
or more of the following: (a) A box 
motion, for inserting different colors 
or kinds of filling; (b) a fringe motion, 
for making fringe at the end of each 
towel; (c) a motion for changing the 
weave from terry to regular construc- 
tion or vice versa at the beginning and 
end of each towel. This is usually ac- 
complished with a multiplier or re- 
peater, or with a measuring device 
which automatically brings into play 
the pattern chain requiviMi. 

Terry looms are usually heavily built 
and contain stands for at least two- 
warp beams. 

FINISHING. 

Some toweling is sold in the gray, 
but most of it is bleached. First proc- 
ess: Boiled with 4 percentcaustic soda, 



boil for 12 hours, riused through. 
water; teco-id, again boiled with \ per 
cent caustic soda, boil for 10 hours; 
third, passed through acid bath, % 
degree Tw. sulphuric acid, rinsed with, 
water; fourth, passed through chlorine 
water at ^2 degree Tw. aad laid down 
in bin until white, ; fifth, passed 
through acid bath of i^ degree Tw. 
sulphuric acid and rinsed well with 
water, dried and cut up into towels. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns of which terry cloth are 
made vary from those made of waste 
stock to those made of long staple 
combed stock and it would be 
hard to describe one particular grade 
to make it cover all terry cloth. For 
this article we will suppose the 
average count of the yarn is l-45s 
and will give the carding and spin- 
ning particulars for this count of 
yarn in both warp and filling yarns. 
We will also consider that the stock 
is carded. 

THE MACHINERY USED 

would be found in the equipment found 
in the second division of mills, as giv- 
en in a previous article. The cotton 
would be brought from the cotton 
shed and sampled by the one in 
charge of this job; sometimes it is 
the overseer, sometimes the "super," 
and sometimes, in large mills, a cot- 
ton sampler is employed. All bales 
containing cotton not up to grade or 
length of staple should be placed at 
one side and not put into the mixing. 
The mixing should be as large as pos- 
sible and may be done either by hand 
or, as is more generally the, custom, by 
a bale breaker. One bale breaker is 
able to take care of a great many 
bales of cotton per week. The cotton 
is fed to the bale breaker from several 
bales of cotton, a little being taken 
from each. This is so that the cotton 
from all the bales will be intermixed, 
and in this manner a more even yarn 
is apt to result. After passing the 
bale breaker the cotton is conveyed to 
the mixing bins by an arrangement of 
endless lattices, which may be moved 
when it is desired to drop the cotton 
into another bin. 

THE MIXING 
should be allowed to stand as long as 
possible, especially if the mixing is 
done by hand. The cotton is then 
put through a bale breaker and three 
processes of picking. The hopper of 
the opener or feeder should always be 
kept more than half full so that the 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



17a 



spiked lifting apron will always be 
carrying a load to the pin beater. In 
this manner an even amount of cotton 
is fed to the feed rolls of the break- 
er picker. The breaker picker is pro- 
vided with either a two or three armed 
rigid type of beater. If two bladed, 
the speed should not exceed 1,500 rev- 
olutions per minute for this grade and 
staple of cotton (1%-inch peeler). 
The total weight of the lap at the 
front end of the breaker picker is 40 
pounds or a 16-ounce lap. These laps 
are put up at the intermediate picker 
and doubled 4 into 1. This picker may 
be provided either with a rigid or pin 
type of beater. They both have a 
great many favorites among the trade. 
The speed of a rigid two-bladed type 
should be about 1,450 revolutions per 
minute. 

THE FAN SPEED 

should be about 1,050 revolutions per 
minute. If a pin beater is used, the 
speed of the fan may be reduced. This 
is on account of the amount of draft 
that this beater creates itself. The 
total weight of the lap at the head end 
of this machine is 37 pounds or a 12- 
ounce lap. These laps are put up at 
the finisher picker and doubled 4 into 
1. What has been said of the 
beater at the intermediate picker ap- 
plies here, except that the speed of a 
two-bladed rigid type should be 1,400 
revolutions per minute. This gives 
the cotton passing through it about 42 
beats or blows per inch. The cut rov- 
ing is brought to the picker room and 
put through a special picker (to take 
out the twist) and then is run through 
a breaker picker to form it into a lap, 
and these laps are mixed with the raw 
stock at the finisher picker in the pro- 
portion of three laps raw stock to one 
lap cut waste. The total 

WEIGHT OF THE LAP 
at the front of the finisher picker 
should be about 35 pounds or a 121/^- 
ounce lap. These laps are put up at 
the card; the draft of which should 
not exceed 110. The card clothing 
used should be for carding medium 
counts. This should be ground at 
least once a month all over, after 
which the card should be reset. Use 
gauges that are straight and not bent 
all out of shape. The cards should 
be stripped three times a day and kept 
clean. The speed of the licker-in 
should be about 300 revolutions per 
minute and the flats should make one 
complete revolution every 50 minutes. 
The weight of the sliver should be 65 
grains per yard, with a production of 
700 pounds for a week of 60 hours. 



Use as large a doffer as possible. This 
sliver is put up at the drawing frame 
and doubled 6 into 1. The sliver 
should be run through , 

THREE PROCESSES OP DRAWING. 

Either metallic or leather-covered to]^ 
rolls may be used to good advantage. 
Whichever top roll is used, it should 
be kept in the best of shape. The 
weight of the sliver at the front of the 
finisher drawing should be about 70 
grains per yard. This is put up at 
the slubber and made into .55 hank 
roving. This is put through three 
processes of fly frames and made into 
9 hank, the hank roving at each proc- 
ess being as follows: 1st, 1.25 hank; 
2d, 3.50 hank, and fine, 9 hank. This is 
then taken to the ring spinning room 
and made into 45s warp yarn on a 
frame with the following particuiai's: 
Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of 
ring, iy2 inches; length of traverse, 6 
inches; speed of spindles, 10,000 rev- 
olutions per minute; twist per inch, 
30.19. This is then spooled and 
warped and the required number of 
warps put up at the slasher to give the 
required number of ends at the front 
warp. For making 45s filling yarn 
use a frame having the following par- 
ticulars: Diameter of ring, 1% inches; 
length of traverse, 5V2 inches; twist 
per inch, 25; speed of spindles, 8,500 
revolutions per minute. 



SATINE, or SATEEN. 



Satine, or sateen, is a cotton fabric 
with a smooth, lustrous surface resem- 
bling satin. The latter -is made of 
silk. The weaves for satins and sat- 
ines are similar. 

Satines, which are of two kinds, 
warp satines and filling satines, are 
made in a great variety of weights and 
qualities, and are used for many pur- 
poses. 

The bulk of the goods are made on 
the filling satin principle and are 
used for linings, corset covers, dress 
goods, etc. These are usually woven 
white and are bleached, or piece dyed 
in varying colors. 

Warp satines are used for mattress 
and fiirniture coverings. 

Stripe effects are made by using a 
warp containing different colors and 
a warp satine weave. Warp and rilling: 
satines are also printed, to a consid- 
erable extent, the smooth face lend- 



174 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



ing itself very readily to this process. 

COLORED EFFECTS 
made in the loom are confined to 
stripes made when a warp satine 
weave is used, because the warp cov- 
ers the filling almost entirely. In a 
filling satine the filling practically cov- 
ers all the warp, and color inserted 
here would show in harry effect across 
the cloth. 

The smooth, lustrous effect of sat- 
ines is due in large measure to- the 
weave used. Briefly stated, satine 
weaves are made on from five ends up- 
wards; they are complete on the same 
number of ends as picks; each end 
and each pick interlaces only twice 
in each repeat; the interlacings do not 
support each other, at least one end 
or one pick separating them. 

In filling satines each end is raised 
over one pick only in each repeat; 
warp satines. vice versa. 

Figs. 1 and 2 illustrate the only two 
filling satine weaves that caa be made 
on five ends. Both of these weaves are 



ODDBa 

DBDan 
aaaam 
namaa 
■uaoo 



DDBDO 
DDDDB 
DBDaa 

aaama 

■ GDDD 



■DBaBBB ■■■■a 



used in the trade, some buyers prefer- 
ring one to the other, according to the 
effect desired. 

Figs. 3 and 4 show warp satine 
weaves on seven ends each. 

The constructions of filling satine 
fabrics vary from about 64 to over 100 
sley and 120 to 300 or more picks. 

The following, which show results 
of the analyses of five different satine 
fabrics, will serve tO' show that the 
satine principle of construction is used 
in fabrics of widely differing qualities. 

Sample No. 1. Colored warp satine 
stripe cloth for upholstery; 96 ends 
and 52 picks per inch; 7s cotton yam 
for warp and 14s for filling. Woven 
with weave Fig. 5, a 5-end warp satine 
weave. 

The filling in this particular sam- 
ple is twisted harder than the warp. 

Sample No. 2. A fine warp satine of 
good quality, made with a 7-end weave; 
152 sley and 80 picks; 2-50s warp and 
SOs filling. 

Samples 1 and 2, as well as almost 
all warp satines,on account of the large 
proportion of warp on the face, would 
be woven face down in the loom. 

Sample No. 3. A filling satine of 
fair quality; 72 sley and 150 picks; 45s 
warp and 70s filling. Weave Fig. 1. 

Sample No. 4. 96 sley and 280 picks; 
45s warp and 97s filling. Weave Fig. 1. 

Sample No. 5. 104 sley and 210 



picks; 60s warp and 75s filling. WeaiVe 
Fig. 1. 
Samples 4 and 5 are of good quality. 

KIND OF LOOM REQUIRED. 

Satines, whether warp or filling, are 
usually woven on single box cam looms 
of heavier build than plain sheeting 
looms. The selvedges are actuated by 
a selvedge motion. If woven on dob- 
by looms, the selvedge motion is dis- 
pensed with. 

One warp only is required. The 
ends are drawn through the harness:es 
in straight order. 

In practice it has been found ad- 
visable, when weaving heavily picked 
satines, to use a reed that is no deep- 
er than is necessary. For warp satine, 
on account of the large number of 
ends and comparatively few picks per 
inch, deeper reeds are used, so that the 
wires will give, to some extent, for 
knots. 

FINISHING SATINES. 

Satine tickings are sheared and then, 
calendered with hot steam rollers, the 
steaming being done in front of the 
machines; the appearance is improved 
by gas singeing. A method of finish- 
ing ordinary satines is to first saturate 
them with a mixture of corn or potato 
starch, China clay or baryta and tal- 
low. To this is added soap or oleine, 
with wax and glue size. They are then 
mangled, dried, damped, calendered, 
folded and pressed. 

For printed or dyed satines, starch 
with a small portion of soda crystals 
for a stiff finish, and soluble oil with 
soda for a soft finish are used. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Satines are made up of various 
counts of yarns, the different samples 
analyzed being only a few of the va- 
rious grades made, but they illustrate 
the various grades very well. For the 
carding and spinning particulars of a 
satine,sample No. 5 will be taken as an 
example. This is made up of combed 
yarns of 60s for warp and 75s for fill- 
ing. The cotton used would be Egyp- 
tian of 1%-inch staple. This grade of 
satine is made in either the second or 
third division of mills as give'n in a 
previous lesson. Of course 

THE EQUIPMENT 
will have to include combers. The cot^ 
ton is first sampled and then mixed in 
a manner that has been described in 
previous lessons. It is better to use 
a bale breaker, but cotton may be 
mixed by hand. If mixed by hand, let 
the mixing stand a little longer to dry 
and open out as the cotton is com- 
pressed very tightly in the bales. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



175 



These bales weigh considerably more 
than the American bales. 

The good waste from the machines 
up to the slubber should be mixed in 
at the mixing bin. The cotton is next 
put through an opener and three proc- 
esses of picking. The hopper of the 
opener should always be kept 

OVER HALF FULL, 
so that an even amount of cotton will 
be fed to the breaker picker. The 
breaker picker is provided with either 
a two or three bladed beater of a rigid 
type. If the former, the speed should 
be about 1,350 revolutions per minute. 
The total weight of the lap at the front 
should be 40 pounds or a 16-ouncie lap. 
These laps are put up at the interme- 
diate picker and doubled 4 into 1. 'ixie 
beater of this picker is either a two 
or three bladed rigid or a pin beater. 
If the former, the speed of it should be 
1,250 revolutions per minute. If a 
pin beater is used, the fan speed should 
be reduced for reasons given in a pre- 
vious article. The total weight of the 
lap at the front should be 36 pounds 
or a 12-ounce lap. These laps are 
doubled 4 into 1 at the finisher picker. 
At this picker the cut roving waste, 
which has previously been put through 
a roving picker, to take out the twist, 
and a breaker, to form the fluffy mass 
into a lap, is mixed in in 

THE PROPORTION 

of three laps of raw stock to one lap of 
cut roving waste. If the equipment of 
machinery does not include a roving 
picker, the cut roving is mixed in at 
the mixing bin, care being taken to 
spread it over the entire mixing. The 
speed of the finisher picker beater of a 
rigid two-bladed type is 1,200 revolu- 
tions per minute. The total weight of 
the lap at the front is 35 pounds or a 
12%-ounce lap. These laps are put up 
at the card. The wire fillet used 
should be 120s for cylinder and 130s for 
dofCer and flats. Use a 26 or 27 inch 
diameter doffer. The speed of the cyl- 
inder should be 160 revolutions per 
minute; Mcker-in, 300 revolutions per 
minute. Top flats should make one 
complete revolution in 35 minutes. The 
draft of the card on this stock should 
not be less than 125. 

THE CARDS 
should be stripped three times a day 
and ground at least once a month, at 
which time the various settings should 
be gone over. Set doffer to cylinder 
with a 5 gauge. The sliver at the front 
weighs 55 grains per yard and the 
productio-n is about 475 pounds per 
week of 60 hours. This sliver is taken 
to the sliver lap machine and doubled 



14 into 1 for an 8%-inch lap (wide) or 
20 into 1 for a 10 ^^ -inch lap. These laps 
are generally put through a ribbon lap 
machine, the weight of them being 330 
grains per yard for an 8%-inch lap or 
380 grains for a lO^^-inch lap. The 
laps are doubled 6 into 1 at the ribbon 
lap, the weight at the front being 265 
for an 8%-inch lap iand320 grains for a 
10^-inch lap. These laps are put up 
at the comber and doubled either 6 or 
8 into 1, according to whether the 
comber is a six or eight head comber. 

THE EIGHT-HEAD COMBER 
is the one that is being put in nowa- 
daj^s, very few of the six-head being 
sold. The speed of the comber should 
be at least 90 nips per minute, and 
may run up as high as 305. The per- 
centage taken out should be about 20. 
The weight of the sliver at the front 
is 40 grains per yard. The combed 
sliver is next put through two processes 
of drawing, the speed of the front 
roll being 400 revolutions per minute. 
Either metallic or leather-covered top 
rolls may be used, generally the latter. 
These should be varnished frequently 
and those that are damaged, fluted, 
loose or not true should not be run. 
If the latter, they may be buffed, as 
may also the leather rolls at the 
comber. See that the stop motions 
are all in working order, and that the 
traverse motion is set and working so 
that the whole surface of the leather 
rolls is used. 

THE SETTING 
or spread of the rolls for this stock 
should be 1% inches front roll to sec- 
ond; iy2 inches second roll to third, 
and 1% or 1% inches third to back roll 
according to bulk of cotton being fed. 
The doublings at the drawing frames 
are 6 into 1. The weiglit of the sliver 
at the front is 60 grains per yard. This 
sliver is put through the slubber and 
made into .70 hank roving, after 
which it is put through three processes 
of fly frames and made into the follow- 
ing hank roving at each frame: First 
intermediate,!. 75; second intermediate, 
4.50; and fine, 15: at the fine frame the 
lays per inch on the bobbin being 48. 

The standard for twist for this kind 
of cotton is 1.2 multiplied by the 
square root of the count. For ex- 
ample, the count or hank is 15. The 
square root of 15 is 3.87, which, mul- 
tiplied by 12, equals 4.64. If the stand- 
ard for twist on this frame was 94.9, 
the twist gear used would be 20. The 
method by which this is found is by 
dividing the constant v'or twist by the 
standard for twist (American frames). 
Look out for the leather top rolls, 
traverse and clearers to see that each 



176 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



is performing its duty properly. Of 
course the 

SPEED OP THE ROLLS 

is very important, the general method 
being to gain 1-16 of an inch over 
stock ajt each roll. The production 
should be about 33 hank per spindle 
per week of 60 hours. The 15-hank 
roving is taken to the ring spinning 
room and made into 60swarp yarn on a 
frame having a gauge of 2% inches; 
ring diameter of 1% inches, and length 
of traverse, 6 inches; with spindle speed 
of 10,000 revolutions per minute. The 
yarn is then put through a spooler and 
warper and then a slasher. The filling 
yarn is made from the IS-hank roving 
on a frame having a li/4-inch diameter 
ring, 5-inch traverse and spindle 
speed of 7,400 revolutions per min- 
ute. The roving for the filling yarn 
may be taken to the mule room, but for 
this class of goods is generally taken 
to the ring frame spinning room. 



Dyeing and Finishing Particulars. 
PINK. 

One-half per cent Erika pink; 20 

per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 

HELIOTROPE. 

One per cent tetrazo chlorine lilac 

B; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent 

sal soda. 

NAVY BLUE. 
Three per cent tetrazo blue Rx; 25 
per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 
GRAY. 
One-half per cent thio gray B; 10 per 
ceat Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 
LIGHT SLATE. 
One-half per cent direct black S; 20 
per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 
PEACOCK BLUE. 
Two per cent Eboli blue B; 20 per 
cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 
RED. 
Three per cent direct red B; 20 per 
cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 
SLATE. 
Two per cent katigen black S W; 
2 per cent sodium sulphide; 20 per 
cent Glauber's; 2 per cent soda ash. 
ROYAL BLUE. 
Three per cent brilliant benzo blue 
6 B; ^i, per cent benzo fast violet R; 
25 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

TAN BROWN. 
Three per cent benzo fast orange S; 
2 per cent chrysophenine ; % per cent 
benzo fast black; 30 per cent Gls-i- 
ber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 



SKY BLUE. 

One and three-quarters per ceit dia- 
mine sky blue F F; 25 per cent Glau- 
ber's; 2 per cent sal soda, 
BROWN. 

Three per cent diamine brown B; 30 
per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 
WINE. 

Three per cent diamine Bordeaux B; 
30 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

SCARLET. 

Two and one-half per cent diamine 
scarlet B; 25 per cent Glauber's; 2 per 
cent sal soda. 

Satines are finished by passing 
through a calender machine to give a 
fine lustre finish and are sometimes 
placed on a beetle machine and beetled 
for two hours. They are starched 
first with a very light starch, and a lit- 
tle white soluble softening, to give a 
soft, smooth feel. 



MUSLIN-BUTCHER'S MUSLIN. 

Muslin is commercially understood 
to mean a soft cotton fabric, used for 
various purposes, but principally for 
dress goods, underwear, sheetings, etc. 
Some muslins are named from their 
place of production, as Asoreem, Dac- 
ca, India, Madras and Swiss muslin, 
while some are named from the use 
to w^hich they are chiefly put, as 
butcher's muslin, which derives its 
name from the fact that it is chiefly 
used by grocery men and butchers in 
the form of aprons and coverings. It 
is a strong bleached fabric, well suited 
for the purposes. Muslin is so called 
from Mosul, a city on the banks of the 
Tigris, where was once the chief seat 
of its manufacture, but to-day large 
quantities are manufactured in the 
United States. 

The quality of muslin is as varied 
as are the names by which it is known. 
Butcher's muslin is but a substitute for 
butcher's linen. Cotton is cheaper and 
almost as durable, ana because of this 
it has forced itself to the front. Butch- 
er's muslin is " easily distinguished 
from the others by its coarseness. 
However, considerable quantities are 
used for summer outing dresses, for 
which purposes the bleached fabric 
only is used. The unbleached is used 
principally for sheetings and some- 
times for pillow-cases. The un- 
bleached fabric is preferred where du- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



177 



rability is the chief object. It is a 
■common fact that unbleached fabrics 
will wear better than bleached. 

Muslin is used only in the bleached 
or unbleached state. The fabric is 
not dyed. 

As previously mentioned, there are 
various kinds of muslin; in fact, any- 
thing in the line of soft cotton fabrics 
may be termed muslin. The name by 
which a particular kind is commonly 
known may vary likewise in quality, 
as, for example, there are several 
qualities of butcher's muslin, as an 
analysis would prove. 

Analysis of a fair grade of butcher's 
muslin, which retails at 15 cents per 
yard: Width in reed, 37^^ inches; fin- 
ished width, 36 inches; ends in warp, 
1,900: 1.844 in body: 28 ends each 
side equal .56, selvedge; total, 1,900; 900 
X 2 reed; 52 ends per inch fin- 
ished; warp, l-12s cotton; take-up 
during weaving, 8 per cent; filling, 40 
picks per inch in loom: 42 picks per 
inch finished; l-15s cotton; weight per 
yard in the gray, 5 ounces. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

Muslin is a plain woven fabric; con- 
sequently any loom may be used in 
the weaving of these goods. The cost 
of production is of course reduced in 
proportion to the speed of the loom and 
the number of looms a weaver can 
take care of. The least expense would 
be incurred by using a Northrop loom. 

THE WARP 

should be sized so as to withstand the 
chafing during weaving. As a rule 
all single yarns are sized before they 
are beamed. The warp is drawn in on 
eight harnesses, straight drafting. 
Fig. 1 shows design. 



mamDmama 
Dmamamam 
mamamama 
□■DBDaaa 
aaaaaaaa 
oaaanana 
aaaaaaaa 

Fig:. 1. 



FINISHING. 

The unbleached receives little or no 
finishing. After it comes from the 
loom, it is simply boiled off, dried, 
made up into rolls and then shipped. 

When the fabric is to be bleached, 
it is first boiled off, then subjected to 
the bleaching chemicals, after which 
it is sometimes subjected to a very 
light sizing, composed of corn, or 
wheat, glycerine, bees' or Japan wax, 
after which it is nm through a rotary 
press, then made up into rolls, and 
shipped. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns of which butcher's mus- 
lin' is made are of a low count and are 
made in mills of the first division. 
The grade of cloth is sometimes made 
up of raw stock and a certain percent- 
age of waste. The raw stock used 
very rarely exceeds % inch in staple 
and is of a low-grade American cotton. 
While the same care is not taken of 
this class cotton at the different proc- 
esses for this cloth, still care should 
be take.1 to see that each machine is 
working properly to its best advan- 
tage for production. In this class of 
goods production is 

THE FIRST CONSIDERATION 
and quality the second. This does not 
mean that quality should be sacrificed 
wholly for production, but that the 
machines should be driven to 
a greater extent and the best 
possible work turned off of them 
under these conditions. For ex- 
ample, at the card the top flats 
should not be set or driven at ine 
same speed as when finer goods are 
made, and so it is with all the ma- 
chines. The cotton mixings should 
always be as large as possible and 
should be allowed to stand as long as 
possible before being used. This gives 
the cotton a chance to dry out. A bet- 
ter plan (if there is room enough) 
is to have two large mixings and use 
the cotton from one while the other is 
drying out. If cotton is very damp, 
the heat should be turned on to help 
dry it out. This is generally done at 
night or over Saturday and Sunday. 
It is at this point that the good waste 
from all the machines is mixed in, 
care being taken to see that the waste 
is spread as evenly as possible over 
the mixing. As the cotton is gener- 
ally quite dirty, it is put through an 
opener and three processes of picking. 
The hopper of the opener should al- 
ways be kept full of cotton. The open- 
er is connected directly with the 
breaker picker and this machine is 
provided with either a two or three 
bladed rigid beater. If of a two-blade 
type 

THE SPEED 
should be about 1,550 revolutions per 
minute. The total weight of the lap 
at the front should be about 40 pounds, 
or a 16-ounce lap. These laps are 
put up and doubled four into one 
at the intermediate^ picker. This 
beater is generally of' a two or thret- 
bladed rigid type and if the former its 
speed is 1.500 revolutions per minute. 
The lans at the front of this machine 
weigh 38 pounds total weight and 10 



178 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



ounces per yard. The laps are put up 
at the finisher picker and doubled four 
into one. This machine is generally- 
provided with a two-bladed rigid type 
of beater having a speed of about 1,- 
500 revolutions per minute. The laps 
at the head end weigh 40 pounds or 
14% ounces to a yard. An allowance 
of 10 ounces either side of standard is 
made with this staple cotton. If the 
lap varies more than this, it should be 
run over again. These laps are put 
up lat 

THE CARD. 
This should be set coarse and have No. 
100 wire fillet on cylinder and top 
flat, the doffer fillet being No. 110. 
The draft of card should not exceed 
100. Strip cards at least three times 
a day. The cards on this stock need 
more stripping than when long-stapled 
stock is used, because of the greater 
bulk passing througti and also on ac- 
count of the short staple, which fills 
up the wire. The card sliver weighs 
65 grains per yard and the production 
should be about 1,000 pounds per 
week of 60 hours. This is put through 
two processes of drawing frames. It 
is of great advantage tO' use metal- 
lic rolls on this class of goods. The 
speed of front rolls is 400 revolutions 
per minute. Keep rolls free from dirt 
and fly. The sliver is put through the 
slubber and made into .40 hank roving. 
This is put through two processes of 
fly frames, having the following hank 
roving: 3.30 at the first and 3.25 hank 
at second. The roving ic then taken 
to the spinning room and made into 
15s on the filling frame a.nd 12s on the 
warp frame. Use a warp frame with 
3-inch gauge, 2%-inch ring and 7-incli 
traverse, with a 16.45 twist per inch 
and spindles revolving at 9,000 revolu- 
tions per minute. This yarn is then 
spooled and wound on a warper. 
Enough beams are put up at the back 
of the slas'her to give a beam with the 
required number of ends m front. To 
make 15s filling yarn, use a frame 
having 2%-inch gauge, 1%-inch diam- 
eter ring, 6l^-inch traverse, 12.59 twist 
per inch and spindle speed of 6,900 
revolutions per minute. 



HENRIETTA CLOTH, 

Henrietta cloth is a light-weight 
fabric for women's wear, made in all 
colors from single worsted yarn, with 
silk mixture in the best qualities. 

The cheaper qualities are made with 
cotton and worsted, the cotton yam 



being for the warp, while the worsted 
is used for filling. Henriettas are 
made in various qualities; for exam- 
ple, the "all worsted" from various 
grades of fine worsted yarn; the 
worsted and silk mixture from various 
grades of each; the "cotton and worst- 
ed" made up in various qualities of 
cotton and worsted yarn. 

When the fabric is made with differ- 
ent qualities of yarn, that is, the warp 
differing from the filling in quality or 
kind, the cheaper quality or kind is in 
all instances used for warp. The rea- 
son for this is readily understood, 
when the character of the weave is 
taken into consideration. The weave 
for this fabric is a one up, two down 
twill, the weave repeating on three 
ends and three picks. Fig. 1 shows. 

amaomaama 

anuaamaam 
nmaamaama 
maumaamna 
oamaamaam 

mnamanmoa 
Pig. 1. 

DGDncnnzB 

DDDDCDDBa 

DDDDnmnna 
nDDDBDnaD 

□DaBDDDDa 
DDBDDDDDD 

DBDoannDD 

■DDnDDDCn 
Fig. 2. 

nine repeats of the weave; Fig. 
2, drawing-in draft. This weave 
will show but one-third of the warp 
on the face of the fabric and two- 
thirds of the filling; the filling is 
usually of a slightly coarser count 
than the warp, especially when cotton 
warp is used, consequently the filling, 
to a certain extent, covers the warp 
yarn. The two factors, the weave, 

viz., — ^ twill and the coarser 
count of filling, give to the face of 
the fabric a much finer feel than the 
back. The feel or handle of henri- 
ettas is very important, consequently 
the above-mentioned particulars 
should be kept in view when construct- 
ing a fabric of this character, as its 
commercial value is largely influenced 
by the feel of the fabric. 

PIECE DYED. 

The cloth is dyed after it is woven. 
Considerable quantities of cotton and 
worsted henriettas are bleached or 
finished in the gray; when the cotton 
and worsted fabric is to be dyed, the 
cotton yarn is prepared so as to take 
color in a worsted dye, otherwise two 
dyeing processes would be necessary — 
one for the cotton yam and one for 
the worsted. The one dip or union 
dye makes the cost of finishing hut 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



17& 



normal. Preparing the cotton yarn, for 
tlie worsted dye is accomplished be- 
fore the yarn is warped or beamed. 
ANALYSIS. 

Width of warp in reed, 38 inches. 

Width of fabric finished, 35 inches. 

Ends per inch in reed, 70. 

Ends per inch finished, 76. 

Reed, 35x2. 

Ends in warp 2620, plus 40, 20 ends 
each side selvedge; total ends in warp, 
2,660. 

Warp yarn, 1-oOs cotton. 
FILLING. 

l-40s worsted. 

64 picks i>er inch in loom. 

66 picks per inch finished. 

Finished weight per yard, three 
ounces. 

WEAVING. 

Henriettas are usually woven on 
dobby looms, the speed of which is 
from 120 to 140 picks per minute; it 
is essential that the warp is well sized, 
adding about 15 per cent of weight to 
the yam; wheat, flour, sago or potato 
starch may be used; in connection 
with this, a small quantity of chloride 
of magnesium should be added to give 
the yarn the necessary moisture and 
pliability. 

FINISHING. 

First process: After the fabric is 
woven, it is scoured, then bleached, 
dyed or left in the gray as the case 
may be, after which the fabric is sub- 
jected to a very light singeing in order 
to slightly stiffen the cloth, after 
which it is pressed, then made up in- 
to rolls. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yams which make up henrietta 
cloth are made up of two fibres, worst- 
ed for the filling and cotton for the 
warp yarn. The count of the warp 
yam is 1-50 and this count of yam 
would be made up in mills of the sec- 
ond division, as given in a previous ar- 
ticle. This equipment should include 
combers, as this yarn in most grades 
of the cloth under description is 
combed. The cotton is mixed in the 
usual method, which has been de- 
scribed several times. It is 

OF GREAT ADVANTAGE 
to use a bale breaker for this class of 
yams. The cotton is put through 
three processes of picking, the breaker 
picker being combined with an open- 
er. The breaker picker is provided 
with a three-bladed beater, the speed 
of which is 1,200 revolutions per min- 
ute. The lap at the front weighs 39 



pounds to the lap or IG ounces to the 
yard. These are doubled 4 intO' li at 
the intermediate picker. This pic^lceir 
has a pin beater, the speed of which 
is 1,300 revolutions per minute, • the 
fan speed being reduced on account of 
the extra draft caused by the pin beat- 
er. The total 

WEIGHT OF LAP ! 

at the front end of this picker is 37 
pounds or a 12-ounce lap. These laps 
are put up at the finisher picker and 
doubled 4 into 1. At this point the 
cut roving waste is also mixed in 'in 
the proportion of 1 lap cut waste to 
3 laps raw stock. This picker is gen- 
erally provided with a two-bladed 
beater, the speed of which is 1,400 rev- 
olutions per minute. Keep the beater 
blades sharp and properly adjusted. 
Thisi speed of the beater gives the cot- 
ton passing through the picker about 
40 beats or blows to the inch. The to- 
tal weight of lap at front is 35 pounds 
or a 121^ -ounce lap. The lap for this 
class of work is allowed half - a 
pound variation either side of stand- 
ard weight; if more than this, it 
should be run over again because, if 
put up at the card, it would have a 
tendency to make uneven work. 

AT THE CARD 

the following particulars should be 
obseirved: Draft of card not less than 
110; wire fillet for cylinder, 120s; for 
doffer and top flats, 130is. Use large 
doffer. Strip three times a day. 
Grind all fillet once a month, leaving 
grinding rolls on all day. Grinding 
twice a month is better, leaving 
grinding rolls on half a day. The 
speed of the licker-in is 300 revolu- 
tions per minute; flats, 1 revolution in 
35 minutes. The weight of the sliver 
at the front should be about 50 grains 
per yard: production, 550 poundsi per 
week of 60 hours. This sliver is tak- 
en to sliver lap machines^ and doubled 
14 into 1 for 8% -inch lap or 20 into 1 
for 10%-inch lap. The 

SPREAD OF ROLLS, 
for this stock (peeler 1%-inch staple) 
should be as follows: Front to mid- 
dle, 1% inches; middle to back, 1% 
inches. The weight per yard of lap at 
the front is 300 grains for 8%-inch 
lap or 350 grains for a 10%-inch lap. 
These laps are put up at the ribbon 
lap machine and doubled 6 into 1. The 
weight per yard of lap at the front is 
265 grains for 8%-inch lap or 315 
grains for 10%-inch lap. This gives a 
draft of about 7 for this machine. 
These laps are put up at the comber 
and doubled either 6 or 8 into 1, ac- 



im 



A COTTON FABRICS G-LOSSARY. 



■cuidiug Lo the numbef of Heads on the 
■comoer. If 6 heads, the laps should be 
IUV2 inches wide and s.ei as follows: 
iJubhion plate to half lap, is gauge; 
to.p combs to segment, 20 gauge. Feed 
at 0^2, top comb set to 2,i) degrees an- 
gle; a double row of needles is used 
ou top comb; 18 pei* cent waste 
•should be taken out. 

THE SPEED 
'should be 100 nips per minute; draft 
about 40; weight of sliver, 50 grams 
per yard. The speed of rolls in draw 
box should be as follows: Front to 
middle, i% inches; middle to 
back, 1% inches. This sliv- 
er is put up at the drawing frames 
and doubled 6 into 1 and put through 
two processes, the speed of front roll 
at each process being 380 revolutions 
per minute, the spread of the rolls be- 
ing as follows: Front to second, 1% 
inches; second to third, 1% inches; 
third to back, 1% inches. Use leather 
top rolls on this class of drawing and 
keep them well varnished and in per- 
fect condition. The weight of sliver 
at the front of the finisher drawing is 
65 grains per yard. This is put up at 
the slubber and made into .50 hank 
roving. 

AT THE SLUBBER 
the front rolls for this class of goods 
are sometimes varnished, but this is 
not often done, they being varnished 
when running on Sea Island stock. 
The slubber roving is put through 
three processes of fly frames, the 
hank roving at each process being as 
follows: First intermediate, 1.50; 
second intermediate, 3.50, and jack, 
10 hank. Look out for the traverse 
motion and do not lay roving too close 
to make triangular roving. This rov- 
ing is then spun into 50s yarn on a 
ring spinning warp frame with a 2%- 
inch gauge of frame, li/^-inch diameter 
ring and a 6-inch traverse. The 
speed of the spindles is 10,000 revolu- 
tions per minute, the twist per inch, 
31.81. This yarn is next put through 
a spooler, then a warper and from 
here to a slasher. A good-sized mix- 
ture for this class of goods is as fol- 
lows: Water, 100 gallons; potato 
starch, 54 potinds; Yorkshire gum, 2 
pounds; white soap, lYz pounds. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

This cloth is dyed with union colors, 
the wool and cotton being dyed in the 
same bath. The goods are entered 
into the dye kettle; after the coior has 
been boiled up with from 20 to 30 per 
cent of Glauber's salt, cool off with 



water to 120 degrees F. Rim the 
goods for 20 minutes; heat to 200 de- 
grees F. Run for 30 minutes. If wool 
is not dark enough, boil for some min- 
utes more; when wool is only a shade 
too light, turn off steam and run for 
oO minutes or till the cotton is col- 
ored to shade. If the goods are boiled 
too long the wool will be too dark and 
the cotton thin. 

UNION BLACK. 
5 per cent union black B F; 25 per 
cent Glauber's salt; 5 per cent salt. 

LIGHT BROWN. 
1% per cent diamine fast yellow B; 
V2 per cent diamine orange B; Yz per 
cent diamine brown M; 6 O'unces un- 
ion black B F; 30 per cent Glauber's; 
2 per cent salt. 

NAVY BLUE. 
3 per cent diamine black B H; 1 per 
cent union black B F; 4 per cent 
naphthoi blue black; 1^ per cent for- 
myl violet S 4 B; 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's; 5 per cent salt. 
RED. 
5 per cent benzo fast red S 4 B; 
30 per cent Glauber's; 5 per cent salt. 
LIGHT TAN. 
100 pounds goods: 1 ounce tetra^ 
zo orange G; i^ ounce union tetrazo 
black B; % ounce tetrazo Bordeaux G; 
Vs ounce tetrazo brown R; 20 per cent . 
Glauber's salt. 

SLATE. 

1 per cent diamine black BH; % per 
cent diamine fast yellow B; 20 per 
cent Glauber's. 

PURPLE. 

2 per cent diamine violet N; % per 
cent union black; 1 per cent formyl 
violet S 4 B; 30 per cent Glauber's. 

SCARLET. 

3 per cent diamine scarlet B; 30 per 
cent Glauber's salt; 5 per cent salt. 

PEA GREEN. 
Yz per cent diamme green B; 1 
ounce diamine sky blue; 30 per cent 
Glauber's. 

ROYAL BLUE. 
ZY2 per cent diamine brilliant blue 
G; Y2 per cent diamine violet S 4 B; 
30 per cent Glauber's; 5 per cent salt. 
DARK GREEN. 
2Y2 per cent diamine black H W; 2 
per cent diamine green B; 30 per cent 
Glauber's; 5 per cent salt. 
RUBY. 
3 per cent diamine fast redP; % 
per cent diamine Bordeaux B; 30 per 
cent Glauber's; 5 per cent salt. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



181 



CAMBRIC. 



Ootton cambric is a fabric woven 
with, a plaia weave, tlie distinguishing 
effect being a heavily glazed, smooth 
surface. The glossy effect is obtained 
in the finishing process. The goods 
are somewhat lighter in weight than 
French percale. 

When finished white or in solid col- 
ors they are used very extensively 

FOR LINING PURPOSES. 
The name cambric, like many other 
names of dry goods, does not signify 
any special construction or quality of 
fabric, being made in both linen and 
cotton materials. 

The name is said to have been origi- 
nally given to a very fine, thin linen 
fabric made at Chambrey, or Cam- 
brai, in the department of Nord, 
French Flanders. 

Cambric is known in France as ba- 
tiste, so called, it is said, from its in- 
ventor, a linen weaver named Baptiste, 
of Chamibrey. One authority states 
that French cambric is the finest linen 
fabric made. 

Cotton imitations of the original 
cambric are of the muslin type and are 
sometimes termed eambric-muslin. 

The finer grades of cotton cambrics 
are made from hard twisted cotton 
yarns, and are of good quality. 
LOOM REQUIRED. 

Any of the light, single-box, fast- 
running looms are suitable for weav- 
ing cambrics, the goods being woven 
white, then bleached or piece-dyed as 
required. 

The finest grades, where mispicks 
tend to make second quality goods, 
are woven on the regular looms. De- 
vices have been invented aad tested 
which change the filling before it is 
entirely spent, but they have not been 
successful on fine filling because, com- 
ing in contact with the filling every 
second pick, in practically the same 
spot, they wear it out before it can be 
run off the shuttle. 

Little attention is paid to mispicks 

when weaving the lower qualities of 

goods, and these can be made most 

economically on the automatic looms. 

ANALYSIS. 

An analysis of a black cambric of 
only fair quality shows the following 
data: Fiaished width, 36 inches; fin- 
ished weight, 4 yards per pound; ends 
per inch, finished, 70; picks per inch, 
finished, 54. 

The average number of the yams in 
the finished sample is 24, but on ac- 



count of the starch, clay, or other fill- 
ing substance used in the finishing 
process, the gray yams would be finer 
than 24. 

To obtain the fabric just mentioned, 
the following might be adopted, both 
as to construction and finish: 

Width of warp in reed, 38% inches. 

Warp yarns, 26s cotton. 

Filling yams, 28s cotton. 

Eight double ends on each side for 
selvedges. 

Total ends, 2.536. 

Seventy sley reed, 2 ends per dent. 

Fifty-six picks per inch. 

Weight, 4.3 yards per pound from 
loom. 

The finisihed and unfinished weights 
do not bear a direct proportion to the 
average counts of yarns in each case 
on account of the increase in length of 
the cloth during the process of finish- 
ing. 

FINISHING. 

After dyeing, open the goods out to 
the full width and run through a man- 
gle containing the filling substance; 
then dry. 

After drying, dampen in a damping 
machine and run through a calender. 

For a fine white cambric the goods 
would be bleached, opened out to the 
full width, run through a starch man- 
gle, containing a light starch or fill- 
ing substance, the starch being blued 
to give the shade required, dried, 
dampened and run through a 5-bowl 
calender twice, the same side of the 
cloth being presented to the surface of 
the brass or steel roll each time. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns of wbicl' cambric is made 
are spun in mills having the equip- 
ment of the first and second division 
of mills as given in a previous article. 
Cambric is made in mills or sets of 
mills where only this grade of cloth 
or perhaps two or three other styles 
of cloth of the same grade of fabric are 
made and after the proper gears hank 
roving are once found they are never 
changed. In fact, a machine or set of 
machines may run on this grade of 
goods its whole lifetime, the only 
changes made being in case of a break- 
down, or parts and gears becoming 
worn out. Cambric is made from 
American cotton, the length of the 
staple used being from % to 1% inches. 
For this article we will consider the 
staple to be 1% inches in length and 
the count of the yarn to be as follows: . 
26s for warp and 28s for filling. 

THE MIXING 
is generally done by hand, and the 



182 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



mixings are always as large as possi- 
ble. In some mills two large mixings 
are made so that one can be drying 
out while the other is being used. 
Better results areobtained by thelatter 
method. The good sliver waste from 
machines up to the slubber, as well 
as the cut roving, is mixed in at the 
mixing bin. The cotton is then put 
through an opener and either two or 
three processes of picking, three 
processes being the general method. 
The opener is either directly connected 
with the breaker picker or is connect- 
ed by trunking; if by trunking, keep 
it clear, so as not to cause fire. The 

SPEED OF THE BEATER, 
which is of either a two or three 
bladed rigid type, is 1,500 revolutions 
per minute for the two-bladed, or 1,000 
revolutions per minute for the three- 
bladed type. The total weight of the 
lap at the front of breaker picker is 
40 pounds or a IG-ounce lap. These 
are doubled four into one at the in- 
termediate picker. The speed of this 
beater, which is generally of a rigid., 
two-bladed type, is 1,450 revolutions 
per minute, the total weight of lap at 
the front being 38 pounds or a 12-ounce 
lap. These laps are put up at the fin- 
isher picker and doubled four into one. 
This picker is equipped with a two- 
bladed rigid style of beater, and m:akes 
1.450 revolutions per minute, which 
gives the cotton pasising through 
about 42 blows or beats per inch, the 
total weight of lap at front being 39 
pounds or a 14%-ounce lap. The cot- 
ton is next put up at the card. 

THE CARDS 
on which cambric was formerly made 
are to some extent now used and are 
known as the top flat card. These are 
fast going out of date, so that the 
particulars given belO'W refer to the so- 
called English card. The draft for 
this card, for these goods, should not 
exceed 90. The wire fillet used should 
be 100s for cylinder and 110s for dof- 
fer and top flats. The speed of the 
cylinder should be 160 revolutions per 
minute; licker-in, 400 revolutions per 
minute, and top flats should miake one 
complete revolution in 50 minutes. 
Grind once a month. Strip three times 
a day and if running an extra heavy 
production, strip once more. Set top 
flats to cylinder to a 12-lOOOths gauge 
and doffer to cylinder to a 7-lOOOths 
gauge. Use large doffer. The 
WEIGHT OF SLIVER 
at the front of the card should be 
65 grains per yard and the production 
about 750 pounds for a week of 60 
hours. The card sliver is next put 



through either two or three processes 
of drawing, generally three. The 

doublings are generally six into one. 
The speed of the front roll is 400 rev- 
olutions per minute. On this class of 
goods some overseers prefer the me- 
tallic top rolls. In calculating the pro- 
duction of a drawing frame with me- 
tallic top rolls, it is the general rule 
to allow one-third more than that fig- 
ured for leather rolls. It is found, 
however, that this is too great, and if 
the allowance is cut do>wn to i/i or 25 
per cent, it will be found about right. 
Keep metallic rolls clean and well 
oiled. In figuring 

DRAFT OP FRAME 

with metallic top rolls, add 7 per cent 
when draft does not exceed 3.75, and 9 
per cent when draft is between 4.60 to 
7. If leather top rolls are used, care 
should be taken tO' see that they are 
properly oiled and free from flutes; 
they should be level, without breaks 
in leather, and the leather cot should 
be tight and last should be varnished 
frequently. A good recipe for a 
cooked varnish is given below: One 
quart vinegar, seven ounces glue, two 
teaspoons gum tragacanth, borax, size 
of walnut, one teaspoon brown sugar. 
Cook about an hour. Thicken with 
lampblack and Prihces® metallic. One 
that does not need Cooking is as fol- 
lows : Three ounces glue,one ounce ace- 
tic a«id, one-half teaspoon brown sugar, 
one-lialf teaspoon oil origanum. Dis- 
siolve and add color; add one-half tea- 
spoon of borax in hot weather. The 
bottom steel rolls should be set as 
follo'ws: Front roll to second. 1% 
inches; second to third, 1% inches; 
third roll to back, 1% inches. The 
weight of sliver at the front of the 
finisher drawing should be 70 grains 
per yard. This is put through the 
slubber and made into .40 hank roving. 
The 

SLUBBER ROVING 

is put through two processes of fly 
frames, the hank roving at each being 
as follows: First intermediate, 1.75,and 
second intermediate, 5; the setting of 
the. bottom steel rolls at each process 
being 1 3-16 inches from front to mid- 
dle and 1% inches from middle to back. 
The roving is taken to the ring spin- 
ning room and spun into 26s yarn on a 
warp frame having the following par- 
ticulars: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; 
diameter of ring, 1% inches; twist per 
inch, 24.22; length of traverse, 6%; 
revolutions per minute of spindles, 9,- 
200. The yarn is next spooled and 
then warped, after which it is put 
through a slasher. On this class of 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



183 



goods a heavy sizing is used. The 
roving is spun into 28& yarn on a fill- 
ing irame with a 2%-inch gauge of 
frame; 1%-inch diameter ring; 6- 
inch traverse; 17.20 twist per inch; 
revolutions per minute of spindle, 7,- 
300. This yarn is then taken to the 
steam chest or put through some other 
process which prepares it for weaving. 



Dyeing Particulars., 

Cambrics are dyed in the jig ma- 
chine or the continuous machine. The 
fancy colors are dyed on the jig. After 
dyeing, the pieces are starched with a 
light starch and calendered through a 
heavy calender. 

BLACKS. 
One dip salt black, 6 per cent oxy- 
diamine black SAT; 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's: 3 per cent sal soda. 

SULPHUR BLACK. 

Ten per cent immedial black N N; 
10 per cent sodium sulphide; 5 per cent 
soda ash; 20 per cent Glauber's. 

BOTTLE GREEN. 
Ten per cent thionol dark green; 2 
per cent thionol yello'w; 15 per cent 
sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda a^; 
30 per cent common salt. 
PEA GREEN. 
Two per cent immedial green B B; 
2 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent 
soda ash; 20 per cent salt. 
NAVY BLUE. 
Three per cent direct indigo blue B 
EM; 15 per cent salt; 2i/^ per cent 
frankhansine. 

DARK SLATE. 
One per cent Pluto black S S; 40 per 
cent Glauber's salt; 2 per cent soda 
ash. 

BROWN. 

Three per cent tetranil brown O; 30 
per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent soda 
ash. 

LIGHT BROWN. 

One-half per cent tetrazo yellow M; 
1 per cent tetranil brown O; 30 percent 
Glauber's; 3 per cent soda ash. 
OLD GOLD. 
Three per cent diamine fast yellow 
B; V2 per cent diamine bronze G; 30 
per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent soda 
ash. 

SLATE. 

Two per cent diamine black B H; 2 
ounces diamine yellow B; 30 per cent 
Glauber's; 3 per cent soda ash. 
MAROON. 

Ten per cent immedial maroon B; 10 



per cent sulphide soda; 5 per cent soda 
ash; 35 per cent salt. 

GREEN. 
Ten per cent immedial green G G; 10 
per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent 
soda ash; 35 per cent salt. 
BLUE. 
Ten per cent immedial new blue G; 
20 per cent sulphide sodium; 5 per 
cent soda ash; 40 per cent salt. 
ECRU. 
Three per cent immedial cutch G; 4 
per cent sulphide soda; 3 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent salt. 

SCARLET. 
Five per cent diamine scarlet B; 30 
per cent salt. 

WINE. 
Four per cent benzo fast scarlet 8 
B S; 1 per cent benzo fast violet R; 30 
per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. 
PINK. 
One-half per cent Erika pink; 20 per 
cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 
SKY BLUE. 
One per cent diamine sky blue P F; 
25 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

HELIOTROPE. 

One per cent diamine violet N; 30 
per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent soda. 



TIRE FABRICS, 



Tire fabrics are, as the name implies, 
used for automobile, bicycle and other 
vehicle tires. 

They are not actually tires them- 
selves, but form the base or founda- 
tion of some kinds of composition and 
pneumatic rubber tires. 

Like other terms denoting the use 
to which the fabric is to be subjected, 
as quiltings, bedspreads, shirtings, etc., 
the term tire fabrics covers a wide 
range of weights and qualities. 

The stock used in the warps for 
these goods is of good quality.although 
the single yarns used are not of very 
high counts. 

The weights vary considerably.rang- 
ing from about three to 20 ounces per 
square yard. In one type of goods this 
excessive variation is due almost ex- 
clusively to the ply warp yarns, which 
vary from 2 to 12 ply, from single 
yams varying from about 8s to 40s, 
according to the weight required. This 



184 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



type of tire fabric is termed thread 
fabric. 

ANALYSIS. 

The analyses of two tire (thread) 
fabrics of widely varying weights show 
the following data: 

Sample No. 1. Warp ends per inch 
in reed, 16. Reed, 16; one end in each 
dent. 

Warp yarn, 11-ply 9s cotton. 

Filling: One pick per inch of sin- 
gle 40s cotton. 

Finished weight per square yard, 13.5 
ounces. 

The weave is plain. The drawing is 
in straight order. 

One peculiarity of this class of tire 
fabrics, which will be noticed from the 
preceding data, is that the filling is 
used merely to keep the warp yarns 
in position, not being needed to give 
strength to the cloth. 

Sample No. 2. Warp ends per inch in 
reed, 68. 

Reed, 17; 4 ends in each dent. 

Warp yarn, 2-ply 24s cotton. 

Filling: One pick of 40s filling ev- 
ery three-quarters of an inch. 

Finished weight per square yard, 3.9 
ounces. 

The ends in Sample No. 2 were 
drawn 2 as 1 through each heddle eye, 
in straight order, two picks complet- 
ing the weave as in an ordinary plain 
cloth. 

For a better quality of fabric with 
the same construction the yarns would 
have been drawn in straight order, 
reeded two ends in each dent, as 



Fig. 



shown by the vertical lines in Fig. 1, 
and actuated as indicated by chain 
draft Fig. 2. 

X X 
X X 

Pig. 2. 

By this arrangement the ends work- 
ing together would have been split or 
separated with the reed and prevented 
from rolling over each other. 

If woven on a cam loom working 
four harnesses, the drawing in and 
reeding would be as indicated in Fig. 



1 

Fig. 3. 

3, and the lifting of the harnesses as 
indicated in Fig. 4. 



Reed ends at lines in Fig. 3., two 
ends in each dent. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

Tire fabrics may be woven on ordi- 
nary one-shuttle cam or dobby looms, 
there being but one warp and one fill- 
ing, provided provision is made for the 
proper regulation of the let-off and 
take-up motions. 

On the heavy grades of goods, it is 
advisable to fold the woven fabric as 
it is madfe, instead of running it on a 
cloth roller, on account of the large 
yardage produced in a short time. 

The two samples analyzed were wov- 
en on a heavy loom running about 90 
picks per minute. 



Fig. 4. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars, 

In a previous article the i;otton mills 
were divided into three divisions, each 
division having a different equipment 
of machinery. The yarns that make 
tire fabrics do not come under the 
head of any of these divisions,but may 
be classed among those having a spe- 
cial equipment. This is on account of 
the extra length of staple used, 
which is very rarely less than 1% 
inches, and from this up to the long- 
est staple grown, 2^, Inches. The 
stock is. of course, Sea Island. It will 
therefore be readily understood that 
the machines in use in the other divi- 
sions of mills, having drawings rolls, 
such as drawing frames, slubbers, fly 
frames, etc., could not spread the bot- 
tom steel rolls the required distance, 
so as not to break the staple. In or- 
der to do this, specially constructed 
frames have to be obtained, which al- 
low this spread of rolls. 

ANOTHER POINT 
is that the one main object sought is 
strength and this is the chief reason 
why long staple is used, the counts of 
yarn being extremely low for the 
length of the stock, i. e., 2-24s warp and 
40s filling, so that the additional points 
that should be looked out for, besides 
those that will be given below, are to 
see that the top clearers cover all the 
top rolls, that the spread of the rolls 
is enough so that the staple will not 
be broken, and that the traverse mo- 
tion is in perfect shape and working 
properly. 

As it is strength that is sought, the 
cotton is 

GENERALLY COMBED 
to get all short staple out, but some- 
times the stock is only carded. When 
carded, the carding should be light or, 
better still, double carding should be 
used. In this article we will consider 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



18i 



the yarn to be combed. The mixing 
should be done by hand, the cotton be- 
ing first stapled to see that it is up to 
standard, whicn lor this article -svill be 
considered as two inches. The cotton, 
after being allo-wed to dry out, is put 
through an opener and either one or 
two processes of picking,generally one. 
If one process is used, the lattice is 
marked off into sections of one yard 
each and an equal amount of cotton put 
on to each section to make the required 
weight lap in front. If two processes 
are used, the opener is com'bined with 
the breaker picker. The speed of the 
boater of the breaker picker should be 
about 850 revolutions per minute for 
a two-bladed rigid type. The total 
weight of the lap at the front should 
be 32 pounds oran8%-ounce lap. These 
laps are doubled four into one at the 
finisher picker; the speed of this beat- 
er should be 800 revolutions per min- 
ute. The total weight of lap at the 
front should be 27 pounds or a 9-ounce 
lap. A variation of not over 6 ounces 
either side of standard should be al- 
lowed. All laps outside this variation 
should be run over. The picker laps 
are put up 

AT THE CARD. 
On tnis class of work the draft of the 
card should not be less than 140 and 
from this iip tO' 180. The wire fillet 
used should be No. 120s for the cylinder 
and No. 130si for the doffer and top 
flats. The speed of the cylinder should 
be lf)0 revolutions per minute, licker- 
in 200 revolutions per minute, and top 
flats should make one complete revolu- 
tion everj^ 35 minutes. Cards should 
be stripped three times a day, al- 
though some overseers claim that 
stripping the cylinder twice and the 
doffer three times a day is plenty. The 
cards should be ground once a month 
or oftener if wire is dull. For this class 
of goods keep wire fillet as sharp as 
possible. Use close settings, except 
that of the feed plate to the licker-in, 
which should be set so as not to break 
the staple. Pull the staple at the 
back and front of card at least once a 
day to see that the length of staple is 
the same in both places. The weight 
of the sliver at the front should be 
from 35 to 45 grains per yard, 45 
grains being a good weight. 

THE PRODUCTION 
should be about 300 pounds per week 
of 60 hours. Keep front of card clean, 
so that the short fly, etc., will not get 
into the good carded cotton. The cot- 
ton is next put through the sliver lap 
machine, where it is doubled 20 into 1 
for a 10V2-inch lap, or 14 into 1 for an 
8%-inch lap. We will consider that 



the lap being made is a IQi/^-inch lap 
used on an eight-head comber. Set 
the bottom steel rolls as follows: 
Front roll to middle, 2^4 inches; mid- 
dle roll to back, 2% inches. In comb- 
ing this cotton the instructions gaven 
in a previous lesson may be followed 
with the following exceptions: The 
weight of the sliver lap per yard is 275 
grains; at the ribbon lap 260 grains 
per yard. The cotton lap is next put 
• through the comber. The 

SPEED OF THE COMBER 
for this stock should be about 85 nips 
per minute. The doublings are 8 into 
1 (for an eight-head comber). The 
percentage of waste taken out is from 
25 to 30. Use close settings, 18 from 
half lap to segment and 21 from top 
comb to segment. The sliver at the 
cam should weigli 45 gi'ains. After 
the comber use three processes of 
drawing, the spread of the rolls being 
as follows: 2% inches from front to 
second; 2^4 inches from second to 
third roll; 2% inches from third to 
back roll. Look to the top leather cov- 
ered rolls to see that they are in per- 
fect shape and properly varnished. The 
weight of the sliver at the front of the 
finisher drawing should be CO grains 
per yard. The doublings at the draw- 
ing should be 6 into 1. At the slubber 
this drawing should be made into .70 
hank roving. At this frame 

SEVERAL CHANGES 
are made, which are as follows: The 
top leather 7-olls are vairnished, some- 
times all three sets, and sometimes 
only the front rolls. The size of the 
front leather roll is sometimes in- 
creased to 11/^ inches, or even to 2 
inches in diameter. This is to hel.^ 
prevent the roving "licking up"; 
when this is done, top clearers simi- 
lar to those used on mules are used. 
The slubber roving is put through 
two processes of fly frames and made 
into the following hank roving: 2.25 
at the first intermediate" and 5 at the 
second for the 40s cotton, and for the 
24s cotton the hank roving at each 
frame is as follows: 2.25 at the first 
and 8 at the second intermediate. 

The spread of the rolls should be as 
follows: Front to middle, 2 inches; 
middle to back," 2% inches. It should 
be understood that when giving the 
spread of the rolls, the distance is 
from centre to centre. The warp yarn 
is then spun into 24s on a warp frame 
having a 2-inch diameter ring and a 
7-inch traverse. Some overseers give 
a little more than standard twist to 
this yarn. The yarn is then put 
through the spooler and from here to 



1?(1 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



tli^ t'wister, where it is made into 2- 
ply. yarn. From here it is put through 
the warper and the slasher. ;The fill- 
in'^' yarns may be either mule Or ring 
spun'; if spun on a ring frame for 40s 
yarn,, use a 1%-inch ring and 5i/^-inch 
traverse. This yarn is then condition- 
ed, when it is ready to weave. 



PLAIN and PLAIDED NAINSOOK 



Nkinsook is a light cotton fabric, 
utilized for numerous purposes,such as 
infants' clothes, women's dress goods, 
lingerie, half curtains for dining rooms, 
bathi-ooms and for various other pur- 
poses. The striped or plaided nainsook 
is used for the same purposes as the 
plain fabric, depending upon the 
tasit6s of the consumer. Where the 
fabric is required for lingerie and in- 
fants' wear, the English finished fab- 
ric is seleicted because of its softneiS'S. 
When intended for curtains ov dress 
fabrics the French finished fabric is 
chosen; the latter finish consists of 
slightly stiffening and calendering the 
fabric. 

The name nainsiook is derived from 
the Hindoo Nainsukh and was orgi- 
nally defined as a stout India muslin, 
manufactured in India. 

The fabric as manufactured to-day 
may be distinguished from fine lawns, 
fine grades of batiste and fine cam- 
brics from the fact that it has not as 
firm construction, or as much body, 
and the finished fabric is not as 
smoo'th nor as stiff, hiK incline's to 
softness, principally because it has 
not the body to retain the finishing 
materials used in finishing the fabric; 
consequently it must needs be a 
cheaper article than the fabrics above 
mentioned. Nainsook, like most cot- 
ton fabrics, is made in several grades,- 
the different grades being affected by 
the counts of yarns used, which in turn 
inflwence the ends and picks per inch 
in the construction. 

.;' ANALYSIS. 

Width of warp in reed, 30 1^ inches; 
width of fabric finished, 281/4 inches; 
ends- per inch in reed, 82, reeded 2 in 1 
dent; ends per inch finished, 86, ends 
in body, 2,460, plus 40 ends selvedge, 
equate 2,500, total ends in warp; take- 
up during weaving, 5 per cent; weight 
of fabric, ll^ ounces per yard; warp 
yam, l.-50s cotton; filling yarn, l-64s 
oottoin; C6 picks per inch in loom; 68 



picks per inch finished. Fig. 1, de^^ 
sign; fig. 2, chain draft; fig. 3, draw- 
ing-in draft. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

Nainsook, like various other one- 
filling fabrics of the character 
under discussion, may be woven, on 
any light, single box, high speed 
loom. 

Plaided nainsook seems to imply 



OBBBBBDHDQDBDBDB 

aaaaaBaaaDBDBaBa 
■BaBaaaBaaDBGBaB 

■aBBBJBDBDB BDBD 

aaBBBBDaaBaBDflDB 
■aaaaaaaaDBGBDaa 
■aDHaaaaDBDaaaaa 
■□aBaaaaaaaaaaaa 
DBBBHaaanBaaDaaa 
■aaaaanaaaDaDGBa 
BBDaDaanDDaffiaDDa 

■DaaaDDDDDBDDDDa 

DBiaaBaaaoDaaacDD 
aaQnaanaDaDDEDDD 
■aaaaaGa '^aoBDBDa 

BUBBB .;wr'aDQUBC'BG 

aaaaaaGB BaGDcnB 

BBBDaaBDaDBDBaGa 

aaoaaBaDCffiDBQBDB 
aasaaaDBGHGanBCiia 

GaiaBMMDBDBDBDESGB 
BBaDBBBGDGBGaGEG 

aa-iB iBGDGaaaaGGB 

BGBBBaGGBGGGGOBD 

DBHaaBaaGDaaGaaa 
■BBDaaaaaGBGnDaa 
BBaBGaGHGaGGGaan 

BDBBBaBDnDaaBGGD 

Fig. 1. 



DBBBDBGBGB 
BBBGBGBGBG 
BBGBGGGBGB 
BGBBBGBGBD 

GBaaGBOBGa 
BDtaGBDaaaa 

BBDBGBGBGa 
BGBaaGBGBG 

DsaaaaGDBGD 

BBBGGDBGGG 
BBGaaGGGGB 
BGBtQGGGGBG 
GaaaGBGGGG 

BaaaaGGGGa 

BBGBntSDBGB 
BaBBBGBGBG 
GaaaGBGBGB 
BHEGBGaQBG 
aBGBGBGBaB 
ZGBaBOBGBG 
GBaBGBGBGB 
BBBGBGBGBG 
BBGBGGGBGG 
BDBBGGBGan 
GBBBGGGGGB 
BBBQGGaGBa 

BHaaDBGGaa 

BGnBBGGGGG 

Fig. 2. 

naaoaaanGGGBGGGD 

GQaQGGaGaGHGGGGG 
DGGGGGGGGaaaaGGB 
DGaGGGGGSaGaDGGBG 
DnGGaaCBGGGGGBaG 
nGnGaGBDGGGGBGGG 
DDGBGGQGGGGGGGGG 
DGBGaGGGGGGGGGGn 

naGaaaaGGoaGGGGa 

■DDGGaGGDGGGGGQG 

Fig. 3. 

the use of more than one filling, the 
plaid, however, is formed by the 
weave. See design. Fig. 1. 
FINISHING. 
This fabric is given either whjat 
may be termed an English or a 
French finish. By the former finish 
the fabric, after it comes frordi the 
loom, is boiled off, then bleached, af- 
ter which it is softened by im- 
mersing in a light solution of 
glycerine, or cocoanut oil, and flour or 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



187 



farina, after which it is dried by pass- 
ing over heated cylinders, then run 
through a rotary press with very light 
prefisure. In the French finish, after the 
fabric is bleached, it is stifEemed by 
immersing in a solution of size, com- 
posed of the following ingredients: 
nour, wax and gelatine, after which 
the fabric is dried, then slightly 
sprinkled with water, then run 
through the calender, which completes 
the finishing process. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

One mill making the above style of 
fabric makes' its warp and filling yarn 
as described below. This mill is in^ 
eluded in the secomd divisioin as given 
in a previous article. Its equip- 
ment includes both combers and a 
bale breaker. The stock used is li^- 
inch good quality Allen seed cotton. 
The cotton is put through three 
processes of picking and an opener. 
The openeir is connected with the 
breaker picker. This picker is pro- 
vided with a two-bladed rigid type of 
beater, which rotates at 1,500 revolu- 
tions per minute. The weight of the 
lap at the front of this beater is 40 
pounds oir a 16-ounce lap. These laps 
are put up at the intermediate picker 
and doubled 4 into 1. This picker is 
also provided with a two-bladed, rigid 
beater, vhe speed of which is 1,450 
revolutions per minute. The total 
weight of the lap at the front of this 
picker is 38 pounds or a 12i/^-ounice 
lap. These laps are put up at the 
finisher picker and doubled 4 inito> 1. 
It is at this point that the cut roving 
waste is mixed in, it having first been 
put through a roving picker and a 
picker to form it into a lap. 

THESE ROVING LAPS 
are mixeid m with the raw stock in 
proportion of three laps raw stock to 
one lap cut waste. The beater used on 
this picker is a two-bladeid, rigid type 
and its speed is 1,400 revolutions per 
minute. This gives the cotton passing 
through the picker about 42 beats or 
blows per inch. The total weight of 
the lap at the front is 36 pounds or a 
12%-ounce lap. The laps are next put 
up at the card. This card is provided 
with a 26-inich doffer. The speed of 
the licker-in is 350 revolutions per 
minute, fiats one revolution every 43 
minutes. The draft is 100. Cards are 
strippe'd three times a day, ground 
twice a month, and the wire fillet used 
is No. 34s for the cylinder and 36s for 
the doffer and flats. The weight of 
the sliver at the front of the card is 
50 grains and the production is 600 



pounds per week of 60 hours. This 
mill is equipped with 6-head, 8%-inoll 
lap combers. 

THE SLIVER 
from the card is doubled 14 into 1 at 
the sliver lap machinei and the weight 
of the lap is 320 grains. These lapis 
are put up at the ribbon lap and dou- 
bled 6 into 1, the weight per yard at 
the front being 275 grains. These are 
put up at the comber and doubled 6 
into 1, the weight of the lap at the 
can being 40 grains per yard. The 
speed of the comber is 90 nips per 
minute and 18 per cent of waste 
is taken out. The sliver is then put 
through two processes of metallic 
top roll drawing frames, the weight of 
the sliver at the finisher drawing be- 
ing 70 grains per yard. The speed of 
the front roll is 375 revolutions per 
minute. The drawing is then put up 
at the slubber and drawn into .55 hank 
roving. This is then put through 
three processes of fly frames and made 
into the following hank roving at 
each frame: First intermediate 1.50, 
second 4, and jack frame 12 hank. The 
bottom steel roll 

SETTINGS 
are as follows: Front to second, 1% 
inches; second to back, 1% inches. 
The front top rolls of the slubber are 
varnished. The roving is next taken 
•up to the ring spinning room and 
made into 64s for filling and 50s for 
warp. For spinning 50s warp yarn 
use a frame having 2%-uich gauge, 
li/^-inch diameiter ring, 6-inch traverse, 
and put in 31.71 turns or twists per 
inch. The spindle speed is 10,000 rev- 
olutions per minute. This yarn is then 
put through a spooler and a warper 
and then a slasher. The filling frame 
to spin 64s should have a 2%-inch 
gauge, 11/4-inch diameter ring, 5-inch 
traverse, 27 twists per inch and a spin- 
dle speed of 7,700 revolutions per min- 
ute. This yam is taken to the condi- 
tioning room and then it is ready to 
be woven. 



SPOT and STRIPES 



As Produced by Means of an Extra 
Warp. 

The spot or stripe may be effected 
by the weave alone or by means of ex- 
tra warp and filling. The latter meth- 
od of constructing these fabrics will 
be considered. Fabrics of this charac- 
ter are made in a variety of qualities 



188 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



— from an "all cotton" to a very fine 
woolea or worsted fabric. The elabo- 
ration of the spot or stripe is largely 
influenced by the material used in 
the body of the fabric. The rule with 




Fig-. 1. 

few exceptions is, the finer the quali- 
ty of the material, thd more elaborate 
is the stripe or spot. 

THE SPOT PATTERN. 

The spot is effected by floating the 
extra warp or filling yarn on the back 
of the goods for a given space, then 
raising the extra yarn to the face of 
the fabric for a given number of 
picks. The size of the spot depends 
on the number of picks or ends which 
the extra yarn floats over, which may 
be only one, two or more picks or 
ends. This, of course, is the simplest 
form of the spot pattern. 

The simplicity of this method of 
construction lends itself readily to 
some very neat effects in small spot pat- 
tern s; for example, by using different 
colored yarns for the spot, arranged in 
some order, on a ground composed of 
a 4x4 herringbone weave, with ground 
color scheme as follows: 4 ends green, 
4 ends black, 4 ends brown, 4 ends 
black, with the same arrangement in 



the filling. The spot yarn may be com- 
posed of several colors, as, for in- 
stance, red, white and yellow. 

In making the spot, with extra warp 
yarn only, the spot yarn is usually di- 
rectly under the lightest ground color 
and forms the spot at the junction of 
light ground colors, referring to 
ground color scheme given above. 

The spot yarn comesi to the face 
of the fabric where green crosses 
green tor two picks,then floats on back 
until the alternate crossing of green. 
This form of spot is operated on but 
two harnesses. The more elaborate 
spot is formed on the same principle 
as the small two-pick spot, just men- 
tioned; the elaboration consists of the 
use of more ends. These ends are wov- 
en in, in the form of a figure, which 
requires the use of from 4 to 12 har- 
nesses and more, in order to form the 
spot. These large spots are usually 
woven on a plain ground weave. The 
pattern would be read: 1 end of ground- 
1 end of figure or extra yarn. The 
figure could be removed without affect- 
ing the ground weave, by reason of 
the fact that the spot is formed en- 
tirely by extra yarn. The spots are 
woven in the cloth in some order; for 
instance, they may be based on any 
satin, broken twill, or plain weave or- 
der. 

Fig. 1 is a sample of spot pattern 
formed by extra warp yarn. 

RAISED STRIPE PLAID. 

These fabrics are much in use as a 
dress fabric for children and are made 
in all cotton, worsted and cotton, and 
all worsted, with the exception of the 
raised stripe, which is usually mer- 
cerized cotton or silk. 



■■■■DB 
■■DHMB 
DBaSHB 

■■■DMB 

■■■■■a 
Fig. 2. 

The raised stripe is formed by the 
use of partially extra yarn in both 
warp and filling, that is to say, if a 
stripe is formed with 12 ends, these 12 
ends would be reeded so as to take 
the place of only .8 gi'ound ends; for 
example, if ground is reeded 2 in 1 
dent, the stripe is reeded 3 in 1 dent. 

If we use for ground weave — 5 
twill, the raised stripe must be a 
weave that is divisible by 3 — ^the num- 
ber of ends in the repeat of ground 
weave; in order to produce perfect 
stitching,a 6-end irregular satin would 
be required. 

In laying out the pattern, or color 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



18& 



arrangement, it should be observed 
that the pattern is divisible by 
6, and that the number of ends be- 
tween the raised stripes in both warp 
and filling is divisible bj' 6, otherwise 



198 



Top. 



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Fig. 3. 



imperfect stitching will result when 
using a — 5 twill for ground weave. 
These fabrics are made in various 
widths; the cotton goods are set usual- 
ly at 38 inches in reed, and finish at 36 
inches. 

ANALYSIS. 



WARP AND FILLING PATTERN. 

36 ends bleach cotton. 
4 — 6 ends blue cotton mercerized. 

6 ends bleach. 
i — 6 ends blue. 

6 ends bleach. 
4 — 6 ends blue. 
30 ends scarlet. 
12 ends green, start 12. 
4 ends black. 
2 ends bleach. 
4 — 6 ends scarlet. 



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1.000—2 reed; 
take-UD. 



picks 54, with stop 



2 ends bleach. 

4 ends black. 

12 ends green, end 12. 

30 ends scarlet. 

4 — 6 ends blue. 

6 ends bleach. 

4 — 6 ends blue. 

6 ends bleach. 

4 — 6 ends blue. 

198 
14 ends extra yarn for stripe. 

184 

Fig. 3 required chain draft. 
Fig. 4 drawing-in draft. 



190 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



Ends In warp. Ends In pattern. 

708 bleach 64 2-40 cotton. 

660 scarlet 60 2-40 cotton. 

288 green 24 2-40 cotton. 

396 blue 36 2-40 mercerized cotton. 

72 scarlet 6 2-40 mercerized cotton. 

144 black 8 2-40 mercerized cotton. 

2,268 198 ends in 1 pattern. 

2,268 total ends In warp. 

The pattern shows that we have 
198 ends and picks taking up the space 
required for 184/or 14 ends and picks 
of extra yarn in each pattern require 
average picks per inch in fabric: 54 
pick wheel — 198 in place of 184; 184 : 
198 : : 54 : X equals 58 picks. 

To calculate filling material re- 
quired for 10 yards of cloth: 



cotton fabrics are usually given a dry 
finish— simply run through a rotary 
press with slightly heated cylinders, 
and slightly steamed before passing 
over the cylinder of the press — after 
which they are made up into small 
rolls, then shipped. 







PATTERN. 










64 A 
60 B 
24 C 
36 D 
6 E 
8 P 










198 




38 
54 


inches in reed, 
pick wheel. 


184 




2,052 


divided by 184 = 


: 11.15 average yards of yam 
of colors In 1 yd. 






11.15 
10 yds 










111.50 
5.58 5% 


added for waste. 








117.08 






117.08 
64 






Weight 
of each 
color. 





7,493.12 yds. of color A— 7.13 ozs. 

7,024.80 yds. of color B— 6.66 ozs. 

2,809.92 yds. of color C— 2.66 ozs. 

4,214.88 yds. of color D— 4.01 ozs. 

702.48 yds. of color E— .70 ozs. 

936.64 yds. of color F— .90 ozs. 

22.06 ozs. of filling for 10 
yds. of cloth. 
2-40S mercerized filling = 16,800 yards to 1 lb. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

These fabrics require the use of box 
looms; a 4x1 or 6x1, or pick and pick 
loom, that is, a 4x4 box loom, is much 
used. If 6 colors are in the warp pat- 
tern, a 6x1 box dobby loom should be 
used. In the cheaper grade of plaids a 
6 color warp pattern is sometimes 
filled with only 4 colors; this necessi- 
tates that one filling color covers two 
warp colors. A little discretion along 
this line will enable the manufactur- 
er to use a 4x1 box loom where a 6x1 
should be used. This, however, is only 
practiced in the cheaper grade of fab- 
rics. 

FINISHING. 

These fabrics, if made with worsted 
are given a light scouring, then 
pressed. In the large spot patterns 
the extra yarn that floats on the back, 
when not forming the spot, is cut oflE 
by means of a shearing machine. The 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The mills making the yarn for these 
fabrics will be found, in either the 
first or second division of mills, as 
given in a previous article. 

The yarns of which this class of 
goods is made vary a great deal, some 
of the finer ones being combed. For 
this article we will consider the warp 
and filling to be carded 2-40s yarn 
made from a 1 5-16-inch staple peeler 
cotton of a good grade. The raw stock 
is mixed by hand, although, if done 
by a bale breaker, it is better, as has 
been before stated; especially is mis 
true in rainy or muggy weather. The 
mixings should be as large as possible 
and the hands mixing the cotton 
should break the bale into as small 
parts as possible. 

IN HAND MIXING 
several bales should be opened at 
once, and the cotton from each mixed 
together. At this point the sliver 
waste is mixed in wioh the raw stock. 
This should be thoroughly spread over 
the entire mixing. The cotton is put 
through an opener and three processes 
of picking. Always keep hopper of 
opener more than half filled with 
cotton, so as to obtain as even a feed 
as possible. 

After passing through the opener 
the cotton is fed on to an endless lat- 
tice, which carries it to the feed rolls 
of the breaker picker. These con- 
dense the cotton and present it to the 
action of the beater. This beater is 
generally the two-bladed rigid type 
of beater and its speed is 1,550 revolu- 
tions per minute. Look at the 

GRID BARS 

to see that they are properly spread 
and the dirt is going through them 
and not being drawn into the cotton 
again after being knocked out by the 
beater. Do not allow the dirt to col- 
lect under picker, especially under the 
grid bars, as it is liable to be drawn 
into the cleaned cotton by the draft. 
The total weight of lap at the front of 
the breaker is 40 pounds or a 16%- 
ounce lap. These laps are put up at 
the intermediate picker and doubled 4 
into 1. This picker is also generally 
provided with a two-bladed rigid type 
of beater, whose speed is 1,500 revolu- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



191 



tions per minute. The total weight 
of the lap at the front of this picker 
is 38 pounds, or a 12i/^-ounce lap. 
These laps are put up at the finisher 
picker and doubled 4 into 1. It is at 
this point that the 

CUT ROVING WASTE 

is mixed in. If the mill contains a 
cut roving waste picker the propor- 
tion of mixing is as follows: Three 
laps raw stock to one lap cut roving. 
If, however, there is no such machine, 
the two centre laps are taken out and 
the cut roving spread evenly over the 
surface of the last lap. This will, of 
course, bring the waste between two 
laps of raw stock. The beater of this 
machine is a rigid two-bladed beater 
and makes 1,450 revolutions per min- 
ute, which gives the cotton passing 
through the machine 411^ beats per 
minute. The total weight of this lap 
at the front is 36i/^ pounds or a 12- 
ounce lap. The variation allowed for 
this kind of work is one-half pound 
either side of standard. Laps weigh- 
ing over or under this variation are 
put back to be run over again. These 
laps are put up 

AT THE CARD. 
This card should have a draft of not 
less than 100. The end is set for me- 
dium work and uses the medium count 
of wire fillet for wiring dofCer 
flats and cylinders. Set the dofCer 
(which should be as large as possible) 
from the cylinder with a 7-1,000-inch 
gauge. The flats of the cards should 
make one complete revolution every 
45 minutes. The cards should be 
cleaned thoroughly twice a day and 
the front wiped off many times more, 
to keep fly from falling back into 
good work. Strips should be collected 
at regular intervals which should not 
be so long apart as to allow the fly to 
accumulate so that it is liable to fall 
over on the doffer or be drawn up In- 
to the flats. This it cannot do if 
cards are equipped with a Thompson 
waste roll. The sliver at the front 
should weight 60 grains per yard and 
the production should be about 750 
pounds for a week of 60 hours. Strip 
cards three times a day (twice in 
morning and once in afternoon) and 
grind all over once every three weeks. 

DRAWING. 
The cotton is next put through 
three processes of drawing frames. 
These frames may be equipped with 
leather top rolls or metallic top rolls. 
If the former, be sure to see that the 
rolls are well covered and in perfect 
condition and well varnished. The 



frames should at least receive a set 
of front top rolls every week. The 
speed of the front roll should be about 
350 revolutions per minute. The 
frames may be equipped with metallic 
rolls to good advantage and, if they 
are, care should be taken to keep the 
flutes free from dirt of all kinds. The 
weight of the drawing sliver at the 
front of the finisher drawing frame 
should be 75 grains per yard. The 
cans of sliver are put up to the slub- 
ber and spun into .50 hank roving. 
Varnish the front loose top rolls of the 
slubber. The other sets of top rolls 
may also be varnished, but they are 
not so important. Keep rolls properly 
covered, oiled and weighted. Look 
out to see that no cut work is being 
made. After passing through the 
slubber the cotton is put through 
three processes of 

FLY FRAMES 

and made into the following hank rov- 
ing: at each first intermediate, 1.50; 
second intermediate or roving frame, 
4, and jack frame 10 hank. Be careful 
to see that proper twist is being put in, 
just enough so that the roving will not 
break back at the succeeding process. 
The method of finding the standard for 
twist has been given in a previous ar- 
ticle. Another point is to see that 
the tension is right, because, if it is 
too much, the roving will be apt to be 
strained, while, if too slack, a soft 
bobbin will be made. Keep top leath- 
er rolls in good condition, as well as 
spindles well oiled for good roving. 
After having passed the fly frames 
the roving is taken to the 

RING SPINNING FRAME 

and spun into 40s yarn. If spun on a 
warp frame, use a frame having a 1%- 
inich diameter ring, 6% inches trav- 
erse, twist per inch of 28.46, and spin- 
dle speed of 10,000 revolutions per 
minute. If spun on a filling frame 
use a frame having a 1^-inch diam- 
eter ring, 5%-inch traverse, twist of 
23.72 and spindle speed of 8,800 revo- 
lutions per minute. The yam is next 
twisted into 2 ply at the twister and 
then the warp yarn is run on a chain 
warper; from here it is taken and 
dyed, after which it has to be warped 
again on a beam. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

Following are the dyeing particulars 
on cotton yarn and mercerized yam: 

SCARLET. 
Four per cent direct scarlet A; 30 
per cent common salt. 



192 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



MAROON. 

Three and one-half per cent direct 
maroon B; 30 per cent common salt. 

PINK. 

Three-quarters per cent direct pink 
7 B; 20 per cent salt 

YELLOW. 

Three per cent chromine G; 30 per 
cent salt. 

GREEN. 

One and one-half per cent naphta- 
mine green 4 B; 25 per cent salt. 

NAVY BLUE. 

Pour per cent naph famine blue 2 B; 
30 per cent salt. 

LIGHT BROWN. 

One-half per cent naphtamine brown 
N cone; % per cent naphtamine yel- 
low N N cone; 20 per cent salt. 

SKY BLUE. 

One per cent diamine sky blue F F; 
30 per cent Glauber's salt. 

ORANGE. 

One per cent naphtamine orange O; 
30 per cent Glauber's salt. 

LIGHT OLIVE. 

Three-quarters per cent direct olive 
R; % per cent naphtamine yellow N 
N cone; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. 

BROWN. 

One per cent naphtamine brown 6 B: 
2 per cent naphtamine yellow N N; 30 
per cent salt. 

SLATE. 

One and one-half per cent naphta- 
mine black N; 20 per cent salt. 

BOTTLE GREEN. 

Five per cent naphtamine black 2 G; 
1 per cent naphtamine yellow N N; 30 
per cent salt. 

BLACK. 

Five per cent naphtamine black D; 
30 per cent salt. 

HELIOTROPE. 

One-quarter per cent heliotrope B 
B; 20 per cent Glauber's salt. 

ECRU. 

■ One ounce naphtamine brown N; 2 
ounces naphtamine yellow N N; 20 
per cent salt. 



TARTANS. 



Tartans, also termed tartan plaids, 
or Scotch plaids, are highly colored 
fabrics, the distinguishing effect being 
large plaid or check effects formed by 
two or more colors of warp and filling, 
more particularly containing sucli 
prominent colors as red, yellow, blue, 
orange, green, purple, primary and 
secondary colors and other shO'Wy col- 
ors, to a greater or less degree. Pure 
blacks and whites are also used. 

THE MATERIALS 
used are yarn dyed. The weaves 
used are usually the plain, =^ twill, 

^ basket, —3 twill, ^ basket, 

and rearrangements of or com'bina- 
tions of these weaves, which 
distribute the warp and filling in equal 
proportions on both sides while re- 
taining a firm structure of cloth. 

The Mayo or Campbell weave, Fig. 
1, and the C-end twill and G-end bas- 



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ket are used for the finer grades of 
goods. 

Tartans, although sometimes made 
with cotton yarns, are more extensive- 
ly made with worsted. They are also 
made with other fibres. 

References to tartans being used for 
wearing apparel are found in litera- 
ture, dating back to the 15th century. 

At the present time tartans are used, 
as of old, for ladies' dress goods, and 
also foT a certain type of garment for 
men, well known where Scotchmen 
have found their way. 

The word tartan is of doubtful ori- 
gin, some historians claiming one and 
some another. For several hundred 
years it has been connected with cloths 
made and worn principally by people 
in the Scottish 'highlands.. 

The Hig'hlanders were formerly di- 
vided into sections, or clans, each of 
which had its own special tartan, the 
latter varying in the arrangement oi 
colors, or of the colors themselves, or 
of both, from those used by the other 
clans. 

The Scottish clans and their tartans 
have been ably and extensively dealt 
with in literature, books having been 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



193 



published on the subject, to which the 
reader is referred for more detailed in- 
formation. In some of these puiblica- 
tions the illustrations Show the princi- 
pal tartans in their several colors. 

A collection of tartans of good qual- 
ity is one of the ibest aid® In studying 
pure color combinations that can be 
obtained. 

It is said that the tartan, no ma;tter 
of what colors or arrangement of col- 
ors the plaid may be composed, signi- 
fies the brotherhood of the various 
Scottish clans. 

THE SIMPLEST FORM 
of tartan is in two colors, arranged so 
many ends of one color and an equal 
number of ends of another color in the 
warp, the arrangement of filling being 
similar to the warp, making blocks ot 
equal size. 

The combinations of coLors, or ar- 
rangements of yarns, may vary as de- 
sired. 

From this base an infinite variety 
of variations can be made; 4, 5 and 6- 
color tartans are commonly made. 

In a tartan made in six colors, red, 
yellow, blue, green, hlack and white, 
with the exception of the yellow and 

v?<hite ends, which work -^ , the 
weave is as shown in Fig. 2. 

A tartan with a prominent weave ef- 
fect, as in this instance, is something 
unusual. The idea here seems to have 
been to get a stripe effect. 

To produce said tartan, 16 har- 
nesses would be required, 8 for the 
ground, 6 for the warp float and 2 for 
the selvedges. The sections worKing 
—J work in 8-end sateen order; the 
largest contains 6 ends, therefore 6 
harnesses only are required. 

Being a fabric characterized by col- 
or effect, tartans are made to vary in 
quality, width, weight and finish to a 
considerable degree, according to re- 
quirements. In cotton goods they are 
usually developed in medium counts of 
yarn, from say 20s to 40s. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 
One requisite for weaving tartan fab- 
rics is a loom with two or more shuttle 
boxes at one end. For almost all of 
the patterns a single box will answer 
at the other end. 

The harness motion of the loom 
will differ according tO' the weave re- 
quired. For a plain weave tartan, an 
ordinary 2-cam gingham loom will an- 
swer; in fact, about the only 
difference between a tartan and 
a ging'ham is that the colors of 
the former are brighter than those 
of the latter, and yarns of only 
one count are generally used, one 



warp only being required, whereas in 
a ging'hrjm it is quite common to have 
yarns of varying counts in both warp 
and filling. 

A tartan plaid is also larger, as a 
rule, than a ging'ham check. 

A cam box loom would also suffice for 
weavinc 4-'harness twill and derivative 
weaves, although it might he prefer- 
aJble in the case of the latter to nsie a 
dobby loom on account of the cross 
drawing-in that would be necessary. 

For fancy weave tartans, which are 
in the minority, a box loom with a 
dobby head is required. 



LONG CLOTH, 



Long v.loth is a fine cotton fabric 
of superior quality, made with a fine 
grade of cotton yarn of a medium 
twist. Originally, the fabric was man- 
ufactured in England and subsequent- 
ly imitated in the United States. 

The fabric is used exclusively for 
lingerie and long dresses for infants, 
from which it has apparently derived 
its name. 

Long cloth to some extent resembles 
such fabrics as batiste, fine grades of 
muslin, India linen and cambrics. It is 
distinguished from these fabrics by the 
closeness of its weave and when fin- 
ished, the fabric possesses a whiter 
appearance, due to the closeness of the 
weave and the soft twist yarn. The 
fabric, while possessing fair weaving 
qualities, is, however, not used as a 
dress fabric, chiefly because of its fin- 
ished appearance which is similar in 
all respects to fabrics which we have 
been accustomed to see that are used 
solely for lingerie, night gowns, etc. 

Long cloth, like the fabrics enu- 
merated above, is made in a variety of 
grades or qualities. It is a very com- 
mon thing in textile manufacturing to 
vary the grade of a fabric; not sim- 
ply because the manufacturer loves to 
do so, but because of necessity, com- 
petition, etc. 

THE SOLE PURPOSE 
of the manufacturer is to produce a 
fabric that will sell and in order for 
a fabric to sell, it must be attractive 
and reasonable in price; the price 
which a manufacturer can command 
determines precisely how he must con- 
struct any fabric which he may offer 
to the consumer; if he finds, for in- 
stance, that long cloth is more sal- 
able at 12y2 cents a yard than at 15c., 



194 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



it follows that he must make it at 
the former price. In order to make it 
profitable at 12i/^ cents per yard he 
must either use a cheaper grade of 
yarn or make a slightly lighter fabric, 
by using a fine count of yarn, which 
will produce more yards of cloth per 
pound of yarn; thus are brought 
about the various grades and quali- 
ties of fabrics. 

The public is sometimes badly mis- 
taken when it imagines it buys pre- 
cisely the same fabric at 12i/4c. which 
some other concern is offering at 15c. 
per yard. 

Following is an , 

ANALYSIS OF A FABRIC, 
which sells at 15c. per yard. 

Width of warp in reed, Incluaing 
selvedges, 37i,^ inches. Width of fabric 
finished, 36 inches; ends per inch fin- 
ished, 100; ends per inch in reed, 
9G; ends in warp without selvedges, 
3,600; ends in selvedges, 40; total ends 
in warp, 3,640. 

Take-up of warp in weaving 8 per 
cent; weight of finished fabric 2.5 
ounces; warp all l-50s cotton; filling 
all l-60s cotton. 

Picks per inch finished, 92. 

Picks per inch in loom, 90. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

A factor of supreme importance in 
the production of light cotton fabrics 
is the loom facilities available; such 
fabrics as long cloth and fabrics close- 
ly allied in character are woven most 
profitably on high-speed looms, such, 
as a self-filling Northrop loom. 

Long cloth is but a plain woven fab- 



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ric (Fig. 1 design; Fig. 2 drawing-in 
draft) and is usually woven with eight 
harnesses, owing to the number of 
ends per inch, which would overcrowd 
the heddles and cause the yarn to 
chafe and break if less harnesses were 
used. The yarn is sized before the 
warp is beamed. The sizing is merely 
to strengthen the yarn. For light siz- 
ing it is not necessary to use anything 
but wheat flour, farina, or sago and a 
small quantity of softening material, 
usually tallow or wax. 



FINISHING. 

After the fabric is woven it is sent 
to the bleaching house. The first 
process is to boil it,then it is bleached. 
After the bleaching process the fabric 
is subjected to a very light sizing. The 
most prominent of the sizing ingredi- 
ents is the softening material used^ 
which may be glycerine, paraffine, co- 
coa oil, olive oil or bees' or Japan wax. 

After the fabric is sized it is run 
through a ro'tary press, the cylinders 
of which are only slightly heated,with. 
equally as little pressure on the fabric. 
The cloth is then folded, after which it 
is ready for the market. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns for this fabric are made in 
the second division of mills,as given in 
a previous article. Long cloth is also 
sometimes made in the better-equipped 
mills of the first division. The raw 
stock used is generally Allen or peel- 
er cotton, the average length of staple 
of which does not exceed 1% inches^ 
in length. In some grades of long 
cloth the filling yarn is combed, but 
as it is the more general custom to- 
use a carded yarn, we will work on 
this basis. Make the mixings as large 
as possible. After being mixed the 
cotton is put through three processes 
of picking and an opener. Keep the 
opener hopper 

WELL FILLED, 

so that the pin beater will always have 
to strike some 'Of it back. A well- 
filled spiked lifting apron means an 
even amount of cotton being fed to 
the breaker picker and therefore a 
more even breaker lap. For this class 
of cotton a three-bladed rigid type 
of beater is best. The speed of this 
beater should be about 1,050 revolu- 
tions per minute, as this class of cot- 
ton is generally very dirty and re- 
quires an extra amount of beating in 
the breaker and intermediate pickers 
so as to get a good, clean lap. The 
weight of lap at the front of the break- 
er picker should be 40% pounds. 
These laps are put up and doubled 4 
into 1 at the intermediate picker. The 
beater used on this picker, to get 
good results, should be a two-bladed, 
rigid, type, the speed of which should 
be 1,500 revolutions per minute. The 
weight of the lap at the front should 
be 38 pounds or a 12-ounce lap. These 
laps are put up at the intermediate 
picker and doubled 4 into 1. It is at 
this picker that the 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



195 



CUT ROVINQ WASTE 
is mixed in in the proportion of tliree 
laps raw stock to one lap roving 
waste. If the mills are not provided 
with a roving picker, the third lap is 
taken out and the roving red on top ot 
the sheet that comes from the fourth 
lap. Do not use too much waste he- 
cause it tends to make split laps which 
cause trouble in licking and making 
single at the card. The beater of the 
finisher picker is generally a two-blad- 
ed rigid type, the speed of which 
should be about 1,500 revolutions per 
minute. The total weig-ht of the lap 
at the front should be 36 pounds or. a 
13-ounoe lap. A variation of one-half 
pound, either standard, is allowed for 
this work. The cotton passing through 
the finisher picker receives 42 beats or 
blows per inch. Put these laps up 

AT THE CARD 
which should 'have wire fillet for spin- 
ning medium counts of yam. The 
draft of this miaohine should not ex- 
ceed 115. The speed of the licker-in is 
375 revolutions per minute and the 
flats make one complete revolution 
every 50 miinutes. The percentage of 
waste and fly taken out is about 3.75 
to 4. Use medium settings and be 
sure that the feed plate is not set too 
close so as to break the staple. The 
cards should be stripped as follows: 
Three times for cylinders and four for 
doffers per day. Grimd cards all over 
at least once every three weeks, light- 
ly, and set after having ground. The 
weight of the sliver at the front 
should be 60 grains per yard. The pro- 
duction on this class of goods should 
be 700 to 750 pounds per week of 60 
hours. This sliver is put through 
three processes of drawing frames 
which may be either equipped with 
metallic or leather-covered top roTls. 
If leather top rolls are used a good re- 
ceipt for 

VARNISH, 

which differs from those already giv- 
en, follows:. 8 ounces best flake glue, 
8 ounces ground or flake gelatine, 3 
pints acetic acid, 1 pound burnt or raw 
sienna, 1 ounce oil of origanum. In 
many mills trouble is often found with 
the laps of the leather rolls breaking 
or splitting apart when varnish is first 
put on. If the laps are painted with 
formaldehyde, using a fine brush for 
the purpose, it will be found to over- 
come this trouble. This not only ap- 
plies to drawing frame top leather 
rolls but to all leather rolls that have 
to be varnished. 

ANOTHER POINT 
to look out for is when sending rolls 



away to be covered, all waste should 
oe removed from the bearings, for, if 
chis is not done, a rust spot will be on 
tnem when they are returned fro^m the 
roll coverer. On the drawing frame 
on this class of work it will be found 
advantageous to use metallic top rolls. 
If used, keep the flutes clean and 
smooth. The speed of the front roll 
should be 375 revolutions per minute 
on all processes. The doublings are 
6 into 1 and the weight of sliver at the 
front is 70 grains per yard. Size the- 
drawing frames at least three times a 
day. The sliver is next put up at the 
slubber and made into .55 hank rov- 
ing. From here it is put through 
three processes of fly frames and made 
into 11.50 hank roving at the jack 
frames. The hank roving at the dif- 
ferent processes is as follows: First, 
1.50; second, 4 and fine 11.50. From 
here it is taken to the ring spinning 
room and spun into 50s yam on a 
warp frame having a 2% -inch gauge, 
1%-inch diameter ring, e-inch traverse, 
31.81 twist per inch and a spindle 
speed of 10,000 revolutions per minute. 
From here it is spooled and warped 
and the required number of beams 
put up at the slasher to give sufficient 
end for the warp at the front. A good 
slasher size is as follows: Water, 100 
gallons; potato starch, 65 pounds; 
tallow, 6 pounds; Yorkshire gum, 
three pounds; soap (white) two 
pounds. Boil 1% hours. 

For the filling yarn the roving is 
spun into 60s on a frame having 2%- 
inch gauge, 1% diameter ring, 5-inch 
traverse, 27 twist per inch and 
spindle speed of 8,000 revolutions per 
minute. This yarn should be condi- 
tioned. 



BUCKRAM. 

Buckram may be described as a 
coarse, glue-sized fabric made with 
cotton, linen, hemp or cotton and hair, 
the name in most cases being acquired 
by the finish which the fabric re- 
ceives after it is woven. Some quali- 
ties of buckram are but plain woven 
cotton fabrics. 

Buckram is used principally for stiff- 
ening garments, being much in de- 
mand by tailors, who use the f'^bric for 
stiffening and to give shape or form to 
a garment. The fabric Is iniserted be- 
tween the lining and the surface cloth' 
of the garment in particular parts, 
such as the lapel, cuff or wherever the 



196 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



sbape of the garmenit is essential to its 
appearance. Buckram is nianufactured 
in several kinds; the fabric used for 
mien's wear is usually made with lin- 
en, hemp OT hair and coitton; the lat- 
ter combiniation, namely, hair and 
cotton, is supposed to be the best, inso- 
far that when bent or twisted it will 
Spring back to its original position; 
this feature cannot be attributed to 
hemp or linen. The li'air a;nid cotton 
buckram is a loosely woven fabric, the 
hair figuring as warp, and the cotton 
as filling. It is usuially woven in plain 
twills or heming-bone weave. The 

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Fig. 2. 

filling is usually two picks in one shed. 
(See Fig. 1, design.) 

Buckram also figures largely in the 
millinery trade, where it is made up 
into hats. These hats are covered 
with chenille, plumes, flowers or what- 
ever finery may be desired. 

The buckram used for this purpose 
is a plain woven cotton fabric heavily 
sized, increasing its weight from 50 
per cent to 100 per cent. The odd fea- 
ture of milli-^ery buckram is that two 
separate fabrics are made into one 
during the finishing process by means 
of gluing or sizing them together; 
these two fabrics are of different tex- 
ture. The top or face fabric closely 
resembles a fine cotton voile,while the 
back or bottom fabric might be 
term^ed a coarse tarlton. 

Millinery buckram is a piece-dyed 
fabric, usually in sombre colors, such 
as dark red. garnet, dark green and 
black. In the hair and cotton fabric, 
which is principally used for men's 
wear, the cotton is dyed before it is 
woven. 

COTTON BUCKRAM ANALYSIS. 
Face or top fabric: Width of warp 
in reed, 38 inches; width of fabric fin- 



ished, 3G inches; ends per inch fin- 
ished, 40; ends per inch ii reed, 38; 
ends in warp, 1,440; 19x2 reed; take-up 
of warp during weaving, 8 per cent; 
warp, l-22s cotton; filling, l-26s cot- 
ton; 34 picks per inch; weight from 
loom, 2.22 ounces. 

Back or bottom fabric: Width of 
warp in reed, 41 inches; width of fab- 
ric finished, 36 inches; endS' per inch 
finished, 16; ends per inch in reed, 14; 
ends in warp, 576; ends selvedge, 24; 
total ends in warp, 600; 14x1 reed; 
take-up of warp during weaving, 5 per 
cent; warp, l-12s cotton; filling, 1-lOs 
cotton; 12 picks per inch; weight of 
fabric from loom, 1.86 ounces. 

Weight of two fabrics after finish- 
ing, as one, 6.38 ounces; nearly 60 per 
cent added by sizing materials. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

These fabrics may be woven on any 
light-built loom, the speed of which 
should be from 150 to 170 picks per 
minute. The warp for face fabric is 
usually drawn on eight' bar nes&es; the 
back fabric may be drawn in on four 
harnesses in the order of: 1, 3, 2, 4. 
The chain, if a dobby loom is used, 
must be built accordingly. (Fig. 2.) 
Chain reauired: 2 repeats. 

FINISHING. 

These fabrics, as previously men- 
tioned, depend a great deal on the 
finishing which they receive. The 
men's wear buckram requires less siz- 
ing by reason of the strenuous ordeal 
to w'hLich it is subjected in the fulfill- 
ment of its purpose's, and also because 
the warp, wihich is composed of hair, 
is in itself quite stiff. 

Millinery buckram requires more at- 
tention. After the fabrics are woven, 
they are dyed; the finisher then must 
observe that the fabrics finisih the 
same width, iso that when sized or 
glued together one fabific will not ex- 
tend beyond the other. To insure 
that the fabrics lie evenly, they are 
stitched at the selvedges by means of 
a sewing machine. 

The fabrics are then subjected to 
the siaing process, with the back cloth 
to the roller, which revolves in the 
size; this allows the size to penetrate 
more readily, as the meshes of the 
back cloth are larger than the meshes 
of face fabric; the fabric is usually 
subjected two or three times in suc- 
cession before it is finally dried. 

The ingredients used in sizing are 
glue, flour and China clay. These in- 
gredients are used in various propor- 
tions, the following being an example: 
40 parts glue, 20 parts clay, 40 parts 
flour. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



197 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns which make up buckram 
"vary according to the quality of fab- 
ric, but, generally speaking, the yarns 
are what are called coarse. The 
yarns of this class of goods would be 
made in mills of the first division as 
given in a previous lesson. In coarse 
yarns quantity is the end sought for 
rather than quality. Of course, this 
does not mean that everything is 
dropped for quantity, but that as 
great a production as possible is made 
at each machine and still get the de- 
sired quality for the class of goods 
being made. In fact, the machines 
are set to produce this result. For 
this article we will consider the 
buckram to be what is called "cotton 
buckram" and made up of all cotton 
yarn. Other kinds of buckram are 
made which have only one or both fill- 
ing and warp back yarns of cotton 
fibre. The latter are made up of very 
coarse counts of yarns, generally 
about 1-lOs. Cotton buckram is made 
up of finer yarns and for this article 
we will consider the count to be l-22s 
for the warp and 1-2 6s for the filling 
yarns. Both these yarns are made up 
of the same staple cotton, generally 
a low grade of American cotton be- 
ing used of about three-quarters-inch 
staple. 

MIXINGS. 
Waste is sometimes mixed with 
the raw stock, but we will con- 
sider that only good sliver waste is to 
be mixed with the raw stock. Large 
mixings are made by hand, generally 
enough to last a week or longer if the 
mixing bin is large enough. Mixing 
is done in the same manner as in the 
case of finer grades of cotton, making 
as uniform a mixing as possible, so 
that all the bales of cotton used will 
be distributed throughout the mixing. 
For this class of goods an opener and 
three processes of picking are used. 
The speed of the breaker picker, 
which generally has three blades and 
is of a rigid type, is 1,550 revolutions 
per minute. The total weight of the 
lap at the front is 40 pounds or a 16- 
ounce lap. These laps are doubled 
four into one at the intermediate pick- 
er. This picker is provided with a 
two-bladed rigid type of beater, the 
speed of which is 1,550 revolutions 
per minute. The total weight of the 
lap at the front is 39 pounds or a 14- 
ounce lap. The laps from the inter- 
mediate picker are put up at the fin- 
isher picker and doubled four into 
one. This picker is also provided 
with a two-bladed beater of a rigid 



type, the speed of which is 1,500 revo- 
lutions per minute. Great care should 
be taken to see that the cotton mixing 
is free from all foreign substances, 
for, if the beaters should strike any 
hard substances while going at this 
rate of speed, a spark is sure to be 
struck, which may cause considerable 
damage. The total weight of the laps 
at the finisher picker is 38 pounds, or 
a 14-ounce lap. A variation of 10 
ounces either side of the standard 
weight is allowed for this class of 
goods; all laps varying more than 
this are run through the finisher 
picker again. 

THE CARD. 
The laps are put up at the 
card, which is covered with a 
coarse wire fillet on doffer, flats 
and cylinder, the wire on the cylin- 
der being gauged coarser than that 
used for the doffer and top flats. The 
draft of the card should not exceed 
85 and the speed of the flats should be 
one complete revolution in 60 minutes 
on a 110 top flat card. The cards 
should be stripped four times a day 
and ground once a month. For this 
class of work look out for the dof- 
fer comb to see that it is set right and 
is making the correct number of vi- 
brations to clean the doffer. The pro- 
duction of the card is 900 pounds or 
even 975 pounds for a week of 60 
hours with a 70-grain sliver. The sliv- 
er is put through two processes of 
drawing frames. 

THE DRAWING FRAMES 
for this class of work are generally, 
although not always, equipped with 
metallic top rolls. Keep the flutes 
cleaned and the rolls well oiled. If 
leather top rolls are used, keep them 
well varnished, using a little heavier 
varnish than the recipe given in the 
article on long cloth. The weight of the 
sliver at the finisher drawing is 75 
grains per yard. The doublings at 
the drawings are S into 1. This sliver 
is put through the slubber and made 
into .40 hank roving. This is then 
put through two processes of fly 
frames. At the first it is made into 1.00 
hank rovin° and at the second 2.50 
hank. Look out to see that the full 
bobbins are iiropeiiy shaped and that 
the frames are changing right, so 
that the roving will not run over ot 
under, as this will make a great deal 
of unnecessary waste. The roving is 
taken to the 

RING SPINNING ROOM 
and spun into 22s warp yarn on a 
frame with a 2% -inch traverse, 2-inch 



198 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



diameter ring, 7-inch traverse, 22.28 
twist per inch and spindle speed of 
9,500 revolutions per minute. This 
yarn is spooled and warped and these 
beams put up behind a slasher and 
sized and run on a beam at the front 
on which the required number of ends 
are run. The filling yarn is spun in- 
to 26s on a frame having 2% -inch 
gauge, 1%-inch diameter ring, 6-inch 
traverse, 17.84 twist per inch (3.25 x 
square root of count) and a spindle 
speed of 8,000 revolutions per minute. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

The goods are piece dyed on the 
jigs or padding machines with one-dip 
colors. 

BLACK. 

5 per cent oxy diamine black A K; 
30 per cent Glauber's salt; 3 per cent 
sal soda. 

Navy blues are also dyed in the 
same manner. The goods are very 
heavily starched with dextrine or an- 
imal glues of various kinds. The 
goods are run through a starch man- 
gle, or starched by hand in a tub, and 
dried on a tenter frame. The starch- 
ing process is repeated until a suffi- 
cient stiffness is obtained. 

STARCH SOLUTION. 

1 gallon water, 10 ounces dextrine, 
mixed cold and boiled for one hour. 
The addition of a little color, to color 
the starch, is sometimes required. 



INDIGO PRINTS. 



Indigo print cloth is one of the 
standard types of cotton fabrics that 
are run with more or less success all 
the time, no matter what the trend of 
fashion or style may be. 

An indigo print is distinguished 
from a regular print by having a print- 
ed figure, of any desirable type or de- 
sign, on a solid indigo blue ground, 
the latter varying in depth of shade, 
according to requirements, whereas 
the ground of an ordinary print cloth 
pattern is wMte or a light color. 

An indigo print pattern is obtained 
by one of 

THREE METHODS: 

indigo blotch printing, indigo dis- 
charge printing or indigo resist 
printing. 
The basis of an indigo print may be 



any of the many types of plain cottoo 
fabrics, according to weight and fine- 
ness desired, although what is known 
as a standard print cloth is general- 
ly used. 

A "STANDARD PRINT" 

is supposed to be constructed as fol- 
lows: 28s warp, 36s filling, 28 inches 
wide, 64 ends and 64 picks per inch, 7 
yards per pound. 

28 inches x 64 ends per inch equals 
1,792 ends in the warp, not allowing 
extras for selvedges. 

As a matter of fact, a great many 
so-called standard prints made in Fall 
River, the centre of the print cloth in- 
dustry, contain only 1,720 ends in the 
warp and 62 picks per inch in the fill- 
ing. 

IN NEW BEDFORD 

print cloths are made from yarns two 
num^bers finer ihan the above, being 
made of 30s warp and 38s filling. There 
are 1,790 ends in the warp and 62 or 63 
picks per inch in the filling. 

Anoither print cloth made in Fall 
River is 28 inches wide and contains 
28s warp, 32s filling, 64x64 (shy). The' 
weight is 6.44 yards per pound. 

Although 28 inches' is the usual 
width of these goods, they are also 
made in 

OTHER WIDTHS, 

generally wider. A certain wide Fall 
River print is constructed as follows: 
34s warp, 36s filling, 46 inches wide, 
56 ends and 52 picks per inch, 5.4 yards 
per pound. 

On account of the large number of 
standard print fabrics used, by far 
the largest quantity of any type of cot- 
ton fabric made, many mills are run 
on these goods entirely. 

THE LOOM REQUIRED 

for weaving print cloths is of the or- 
dinary plain 2-'harness cam type. 
From a general consideration of the 
subject lit would appear that the au- 
tomatic looms would he the most eco- 
nomical to use. 

With a plain loom the drawing-in 
and reeding plans are similar to those 
previously explained when considering 
other plain weave goods — skip shaft, 
draw on two twine harnesses, which is 
equal to 4 wire heddle harnesses, reed 
2 ends per dent; selvedge end, double. 

In consequence of the colors or de- 
sign of a print cloth being the princi- 
pal salable features of the cloth, and 
those that appear to the eye the most 
readily, more attention is paid to quan- 
tity than quality when weaving them, 
the idea being that the printing ajid 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



199 



finishing processes will obliterate, or 
at least reduce.any cloth sitructural de- 
fects that may be made in the loom. 
Cloth detects are allowed to pass for 
prints that would not be allowed, only 
as second quality goods, to be finisihed 
by any of the other cotton finishing 
processes. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The mills which make yam used 
for print cloth comprise the larger per- 
centage of all the mills and would 
belong to the first division of mills, as 
given in a previous article. While the 
equipment of machinery is about the 
same in all mills making yarns for 
print cloth, still they differ in a great 
many cases as to the number of proc- 
esses used. For example, one mill 
uses two processes of drawing and an 
extra process of fly frames; another 
may use a railway head and cut out 
one process of drawing, some mills us- 
ing this machine before the drawing 
frame and some after. Some mills may 
■only use two processes of pickers and 
an opener, whereas other mills use 
three processes. 

ANOTHER FEATURE 

about mills making print cloth yarns 
is that there is very little if any chang- 
ing, according to the usual custom; as 
•one overseer puts it, one set of gears 
is nailed on when the machine is 
started and left on until worn out,when 
another set of the same number of 
teeth is substituted for the old ones. 
In this article it will be the general 
machines and number of processes 
which will be given, for carding and 
spinning the standard print yarns, 28s 
warp and 3Gs filling. First comes the 
mixing, which may be done either by 
band or by machine (bale breaker). 
The usual methods that have been ex- 
plained in previous articles may be 
followed. Next the sliver waste from 
the different processes up to the slub- 
ber is mixed in at the bins or is 
sometimes placed in the hopper of the 
feeder a^d fed to it a little at a time 
along with the raw stock. 

PICKERS. 

After passing the opener the cotton 
is put through three processes of pick- 
ers, the beaters used on all three being 
generally the two-bladed rigid type. 
The speed of these beaters at the dif- 
ferent processes is as follows: Breaker. 
1,500 revolutions per minute, interme- 
diate and flnishers,l,450 revolutions per 
minute. The beats per inch at the 
finisher picker should be 40 to 43 for 
this staple cotton. The total weight of 



the laps is as follows: Breaker, 40 
pounds ot" a 16-ounce lap; intermediate, 

38 pounds or a 10-ounce lap; finisher, 

39 pounds or a Hyz-ounce- lap. 

A variation from the total standard 
weight of the lap of half a pound either 
side is allowed. All laps weighing 
more or less are run through the fin- 
isher picker again. The doublings at 
the last two processes are 4 into 1. 
Mix cut roving waste at finisber proc- 
ess. 

THE CARDS 

are set for coarse work and while 
there are still many of the old-style 
American cards in use, for this article 
the newer card or the English card is 
much used, particulars of which will 
be given. The speed of the cylinder 
is 160 to 165 revolutions per minute; 
the licker-in, 350 revolutions per min- 
ute. The feed plate should be set to the 
licker-in one-eighth inch longer than the 
staple of the cotton, i.e., from bite of 
feed roll to licker-in teeth, and the feed 
plate should have a fairly pointed 
nose. The licker-in should be set with 
a 10-l,000ths inch gauge from cylinder 
wire. The back side of cylinder screen 
should be set l-32d of an inch away 
from cylinder wire, directly under- 
neath (in centre), with a 28-l,000ths 
inch gauge and at the front one-quar- 
ter inch away from cylinder wire. The 
doffer should be set to the cylinder 
loose to a 5-l,000ths inch gauge; the 
doffer comb set with a 12-l,000ths inch 
gauge from doffer wire; the top fiats 
to cylinder wire with a 10-l,000ths inch 
gauge and the back and front knife 
plates should be set the same as for 
leno cotton fabrics. The top flats 

make one complete revolution 
every 45 minutes. Strip three times 
a day and grind as before stated. 
The production for a week of 
60 hours is 750 to 850 pounds. The 
weight of the sliver is 65 grains per 
yard. This sliver is next put through 
three processes of 

DRAWING FRAMES, 
the speed of the front roll being 400 
revolutions per minute. Use either 
metallic or leather-covered top rolls. 
The advantages of both kinds have 
been given previously. The weight 
per yard of the drawing is 70 grains. 
The doublings at each process are 6 in- 
to 1. At the slubber the drawing 
sliver is made into .55 hank roving. 
The top rolls for this staple of cotton 
are not generally varnished. The slub- 
ber roving is next put through two 
processes of fly frames. At the differ- 
ent processes the hank roving is as 
follows: First, 2 hank; and second 7 



200 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



hank for the warp yarn. The different 
processes' up to the last fly frame for 
making 3Gs filling yarn ai-e the same. 
Here the roving is spun iato 8.50 hank. 
The yarn is then taken to 

THE SPINNING ROOM 

and made into 28s warp yarn on a 
frame with a 6V2-inch traverse, 2%- 
inch gauge, 1%-iach diameter ring, 25.- 
13 twist per inch, and 9,700 revolutions 
per minute of spindle. This yarn is 
spooled and warped and then put 
through a slasher, A 

GOOD SLASHER MIXING 

to use, if prints are to be woven on a 
common loom, is as follows: Water, 
100 gallons; cornstarch, 50 pounds; 
tallow, 3 pounds; turpentine, 1 gill; 
boil 30 minutes. If woven on a 
Draper loom, use the following size: 
Water, 100 gallons; potato starch, 50 
pounds; tallow, 3 pounds; turpentine, 
1 gill; and boil 30 minutes. The rov- 
ing for filling yarn may be either mule 
or frame spun. It is the general cus- 
tom to have it ring spun in mills built 
lately. For this count of yarn use a 
frame with a 5%-inch traverse, 1%- 
inch diameter ring, 22.50 twist per 
inch, 8,900 revolutions per minute of 
spindle. This yarn, after being con- 
ditioned, is ready for use. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

The pieces are first bleached to get 
a good white, and then dyed in the 
continuous vat. 

THE HYDROSULPHITE VAT. 

The water is corrected by the ad- 
dition of one quart of hydrosulphite to 
every 250 gallons of water. A stock 
liquor is made up in a barrel: 

Fifty pounds synthetic indigo paste; 
2^/^ gallons warm water; 3% gallons 
caustic soda, 76 degrees Tw., and 
stirred; temperature is raised to 105 
degrees F., and 8 gallons of hydrosul- 
phite added. The temperature is kept 
at about 105 degrees F. for two hours. 
If the solution is not clear yellow, a 
further addition of one gallon of hy- 
drosulphite is made. The vat is made 
up from the stock liquor and the pieces 
are passed through a sufficient num- 
ber of times till the required shade is 
obtained. 

The pieces are washed and dried 
and printed with a discharge paste. 

WHITE DISCHARGE. 

Four and one-half pounds bichro- 
mate of potash: 9 pints hot water; li/^ 
pounds soda calc, thei 6% pounds No. 



11 gum; 5 pints water; heated to 140^ 
degrees F., cooled and strained. 

COLORED DISCHARGE. 

Eight pounds discharge pigment; 10 
pounds discharge thickening; 7^^ 
pounds tragacanth, 8 ounces to gallon. 

DISCHARGE THICKENING. 

Eight pounds tragacenth, 8 ounces to 
gallon; 2^/^ pounds bichromate potash; 
31/4 pints hot water; after dissolving 
add 20 ounces ammonia, 25 per cent; 
when cold add 1 gallon blood albumen, 
8 pounds to gallon; after printing and 
drying, the material is passed through 
the following acid bath at 140 degrees 
F.; 4 pounds sulphuric acid,168 degrees 
Tw. ; 4 pounds oxalic acid; 10 gal- 
lons water. The goods should be im- 
mediately well washed and dried. 



LENO COTTON FABRICS. 



Leno' fiabrics constitute a division of 
teoitile fabrics characterized by partic- 
ular warp threads crossing over one or 
more warp threads, instead of lying 
piarallel to one another as in ordinary 
or plain weaving. 

These fabrics possess two distinct 
sets of warp threads, the regular or 



' ' ?■ 



ground warp and the douping warp or 
warp that crosses over the ground 
warp and forms the ornamental fea- 
ture that characterizes the fabric. 

Leno fabrics are woven upon a sys- 
tem quite apart from ordinary or plain 
weaving. 

THE DIFFERENCE 
lies chiefly in the fact that two sets of 
harnesses are required to operate the 
warp, the ground harness and the doup^ 
hairnesB set. 

The ground harness is the same as 
in ordinary weaving; the doup har- 
ness set consists of two harness frames, 
if string doup is used, known as the 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



20 L 



standard and skeleton harness. When 
wire doupiag heddles are used, it re- 
quiires three harness frames. We will 
for convenience deal with the string 
doup; this douping heddle is but a 
half heddle, so to speak. This half 
heddle is usually fastened at the bot- 




Fig. 1. 

torn of the skeleton harness frame 
and connected with the stand and 
harness heddle by passing through the 
upper opening of the standard hed- 
dle, then through the eye of the stand- 
ard heddle, then fastened at the bot- 
tom of the skeleto i harness frame. 



side of the ground warp threads, ihac 
is, it will cross under the ground 
threads; if, however, only the doup 
heddles are raised, the douping thread 
will remain in its noirmal position; 
that is, it will not cross under the 
ground threads. We must, however, 
bear in mind that in no case can the 
standard heddle be raised wiithout also 
raising the doup heddle; whea the 
standard and doup are raised together, 
we must also slacken or ease up on the 
doup warp threads in order to allow 
them to cross under the ground warp 
threads. This is done by means of a 



■onHBODn 
ananBDBD 

DDDBDBDn 
BBBDDBDQ 
DDDBBDaa 
DDaDBDQD 
BDDBDBHD 
DDBDDBDn 
DaDBBDDD 
BBBDBDDE] 
DaDBDBDa 
DDBDDBDD 



Fig 



slackened or easing rod. This rod is 
simil'air to what is known as the whip 
roller in ordinary weaving. The doup 
threads pass under this rod into the 
eye of the doup; this rod is so ar- 
ranged that it will let up or relieve all 
tension from doup threads by moving 
toward the loom. When doup threads 
are required to cross under ground 
warp threads the easing up of the doup 
threads must be indicated on chain 
draft. (See Fig. 5.) 

Fig. 3 shows drawing-ii plan. Fig. 4 
reeding plan. All leno fabrics have 



nTTTTnrm 



m. 



iMHTTnTFTt 



iiBi ■«•,'.',* 



• ■■■■ B. > '■' ■ ■ '■ 

■i ' ■■«■■■ .■ ■• 

■ « ■■ V 1 .■' ■ 

■ ■■■■ aa ■ .«..* Mm 



'•'""•"■■""■''e"!":*/'?!!!'! 



■ ■ m- » .■■.„.■■•'■' '«K;jfiraBB 
<« .■ MM .■■!*■- '■■•.«■■'/■■■ 
>.»'.■ k ' « ' '■'. ■»«■ ..-.-.--arnSi 

. • «. ■ a- 3ft"<BBaM-.aaBiiISi 




(See Fig. 1.) The secret of leno 
weaving will be readily understood if 
it is borne in mind that it consists of 
but two movements of the standard and 
douping heddles; these two move- 
ments are that if the standard and 
doup heddles are raised at the same 
time, the douping thread will be on one 



special reeding plans; the reed is 
sometimes plucked, that is, a wire tak- 
en out of reed, so a,s not to overcrowd 
the threads. This is usually done 
when doup threads cross under six or 
more ground threads; the doup thread 
musit be in same dent with the ground 
threads under which it crosses. 



202 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



ANALYSIS. 



1,400 reed special deniting; 70 picks 
per inch; 38 inches in reed. Finished 
36 inches. 

WARP. 
9 white. 

2 medium blue. 
6 white. 
2 medium blue. 
9 white. 
2 dark blue. 

1 white — 2-ply. 

2 dark blue. 

1 white — 2-ply. 

2 dark blue. 

36 
As the warp lay out is on 36 ends the cloth con- 
tains two repeats of the same to one repeat of the 
weave. 

Draw the 2-pl.v yarn from the top 
beam. 

FILLING. 

■20 white l-.'jiis. 



Pins. 
559 Black 
233 Dark blue 
56 Black 



Bnds. 
4S 1-40S. 
20 l-40a. 
4 2-40S. 



84SPiiis, i- I'luiUngselved^vs. Selvedges •_'- 40s 

black. 

Take-up during weaving ground 
warp 10 per cent. 

Take-up during weaving doup warp 
65 per cent. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

These fabrics are usually woven 
on a dobby loom, the speed of 
which is from 120 to 130 picks per 
minute; a higher speeded loom usually 
causes consideirable trouble with the 
doup warp. 

The loom must necessarily carry 
two warp beams, ground warp a^'d 
doup warp beams. Oreat care should 
be given to the setting of the harness- 
es as they should be perfectly even 
and form a perfect £:hed when in op- 
eration. 

FINISHING. 

These fabrics are principally used 
for shirts and shirtwaistings. This re- 
quires that tb.e patterns be no't too 
large and that the warp stripe be 
more prominent than the filling stripe 
wlhen fabric is made with filling stripe; 
leno fabrics are principally yarn dyed 
fabrics. After the fabric leaves the 
loom it is boiled off, then given a light 
sizing, pressed, then made up into 
rolls, after which it is ready for the 
merchant. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Leno fabrics, like all fabrics having 
a itrade name covering a certain class 
of goods, are made up of various 
counts of yam and of course the meth- 
ods used in making the different 
counts vary as to the pirocesses used, 
also the kind and staple of cotton and 



the speed and setting of the different 
parts of the machines. A great many 
times changing the speed or setting of 
one part of a machine may improve 
the uneveniness of the yarn or roving, 
or, if made at the picker, stop licking, 
so that it is very hard or almost im- 
possible to give a hard and fasit rule of 
speed or settings for the machines that 
will cover the whole of leno fabrics. 
The particulars which are given may 
be taken 

AS A FOUNDATION 
from which to work and a little vari- 
ation one way or the other only will 
be needed. For an example of leno 
yarns, we will consider the fabric to 
be made up of l-40s and 2-40s warp 
and l-50s filling yam®. For these 
counts of yarn the equipment of the 
second division of mills will be needed. 
The cotton generally used is Allen 
seed or peeler (American coitton) of 
1%-inch staple. Some mills comb 
both warp and filling yarns, while oth- 
er mills comb only the filling yarns. 
In this article we will consider that 
only the filling yarn is to be combed, 
although, if both are combed, the par- 
ticulars given below may be used. The 
mixing is made as has been previous- 
ly described, it being pointed out that 
the use of a bale breaker in coanection 
with a blower will help the cotton to 
a great extent. An opener and 

TWO PROCESSES OF PICKING 

are used. The- sliver waste from all 
the machines up to the slubber is mix- 
ed in at the bins. At the opemer use 
the particulars that have been given 
ill previous articles. The breaker pick- 
er has a two-bladed rigid type of beat- 
er, and the speed of the beater is 1,450 
revolutions per minute. Care slhould 
be taken to clean all seeds, etc., from 
under the bars at regular and frequent 
intervals. The total weight of the 
lap at the front of this picker is 38 
pounds, or a 13-ounce lap. These laps 
are put up at the finisher picker aid 
doubled 4 into 1. The speed of the 
beater of this machine is 1,450 revolu- 
tions per minute; the fan speed being 
1,100 revolutions per minute; the 
driving sihaft of the picker making 375 
revolutions per minute. Cut roving 
waste is mixed in at the finisiher pick- 
er in the proportion of 1 lap cut waste 
to 3 laps raw stock, the cut roving 
having been treated as described in 
previous articles. The total weight of 
the lap at the front end of the finisher 
picker should be 35 pounds or a 12%- 
ounce lap. The laps are put up 

AT THE CARD. 

the draft of wihich should not be less 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



203 



titan 100. The wiire fillet generally 
used for this class of goods is 34s on 
cylinder and 35s on doffier aad toip 
fiats. Set feed plate from lick- 
er-in witli 20-l,000tlis of an incli 
Sauge; licker kinives from licker-in 
12-l,000ths of an iach; cylinder under 
screen fro^m cylinder 22-l,000ths inch 
in centre and one-quarter of an Inch 
at '©ach end of screen; top flats from 
cylinder, with a 12-l,000ibhs inch 
gauge, licker-in from cylinder with a 
l-l,000th of an inch gauge, doffer 
from cylinder with 7-l,000ths of an 
inch gauge. Always set to high places. 
Set the back edge of the back plate 
knife 17-l,000ths of an inch from the 
cylinder. The front plate knife has its 
upper edge adjustable In order ithat the 
amount of stripping to be takea from 
the flats may be regulateid. Setting 
this plate closer to cylinder 

MAKES LIGHTER STRIPPING, 
and the farther away it is set, the 
heavier stripping it produces. The 
lower edge of this plate is set to a 
17-l,000ths of an inch gauge. Grind 
and strip card as previously described. 
The top fiats should make one com- 
plete revolution every 45 minutes. The 
percentage of waste taken out at the 
card for this class of goods should be 
about 41/^ to 4%. The production for a 
week of 60 hours is 700 pounds with a 
€5 grain sliver. Use a large diameter 
•doffer. The sliver for the filling yam 
is taken to the sliver lap machine and 
•doubled 14 into 1 for an S%-inch lap 
or 20 into 1 for a lO-inoh lap. The 
weight of the lap at the front is 300 
grains. These laps are put up at the 
ribbon lap machine and doubled 6 
into 1. The weight of a lap at the 
front end of a ribbon lap machine is 
2G0 grains per yard for an S%-inch lap. 
Get weight for a 10-inch lap by pro- 
portion. Size both ribbon and sliver 
lap machines once a day. 

THE DOUBLINGS 
at the comber depend on the number of 
heads of the machine; recent machines 
are generally provided with eight heads 
with a 10-inch lap. The speed of the 
comber for this class of stock is 85 
nips per minute for old machines and 
100 nips for those of recent construc- 
tion. Varnish rolls once a week, us- 
ing on'e of the recipes given in pre- 
vious articles; in sticky or dog-day 
weather use a little ©round charcoal 
and gum arabic dissolved in a teaspoon- 
ful of vinegar. This swells 'to five times 
its bulk. Take out 18 per cent waste. 
After passing the combers, the sliver is 
put through two processes of drawing, 
being doubled 6 into 1. The speed of 
the front roll at each process is 350 



revolutions per minute. The weight 
of the sliver at the finisher drawing is 
70 grains per yard. The card sliver for 
the warp yarn is put throug'h three 
processes of drawing, the speed of the 
front roll being 380 revolutionis per 
minute. The weight of this sliver is 
also 70 grains per yard. The sliver is 
next put up at the slubber and made 
into .55 hank roving. From here it is 
put through three pirocesses of 

FLY FRAMES, 
the hank roving at each process being 
as follows: First intermediate, 1.50; 
second, 4, and jack, 12. Keep' your 
leather rolls in gooid condition and see 
that all parts of machine are well oiled 
and that top and bottom rolls are prop- 
erly set. which foir this length of sta- 
ple should be for fly frames as follows: 
Front roll to middle, 1% inches; mid- 
dle roll to back, 1% inches. From nere 
the roving is taken to the spinning 
room, although some prefer mule spun 
jarn. There is a great difference 
in the opinion of mill men as 
to the advantages and disadvantages of 
both systems, one mill building with 
no mules and another including them 
in its equipment. We will consider 
both 3'arns to be 

FRAME SPUN. 
For a warp frame spinning 40s use a 
frame having a 2%-incih gauge, 1%- 
inch diameter ring, 6% -inch traverse, 
28.46 twist per inch, 10,000 revolutions 
per minute of spindles. The l-40s 
warp yarn is spooled, warped and put 
through the slasher, a gx)od mixing for 
which has been previously given. The 
2-40s yarn is put throug'h a twisting 
frame and spooled. Enoug'h spools 
are put up at the warper and the ends, 
after which run on to a specially con- 
structed beam. 

For the filling yarn l-50s, use a 
ring frame having a 2%-inch gauge, 
11/4-inch diameter ring, 5%-inch trav- 
erse, 26.52 twist and spindle speed of 
8,200 revolutions per minute. This 
yarn is conditioned and then is ready 
to be woven. 



Dyeing Particulars for Yarn. 
BLACK. 

Ten per cent immedial black N N; 
10 per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's. 

LIGHT BLUE. 
Three per cent diamine sky blue 
F F; 3 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent 
Glauber's salt. 

LIGHT SLATE. 
One per cent diamine black; B. H; 1 



204 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



ounce diamine faiSt yellow A; 1 per 
ce.t sal soda; 20 per cent Glauber's. 

LIGHT BROWN. 

One-half per cent naphtamine brown 
6 B; 1 per cent naphtamine yellow N 
N; 1 per ce.it sal soda; 30 per cent 
Glauber's. 

MEDIUM GREEN. 

Six per cent thion green G; 2 per 
cenit thion yellow G; 8 per cent sul- 
phide sodium; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 
per cent Glauber's. 

MEDIUM BROWN. 
Three per cent tetrazo dark brown; 
1 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent salt. 

MEDIUM SLATE. 
One per cent tetrazo black G; 1 per 
cent sal soda; 25 per cent salt. 
WINE. 
Three per cent tetrazo Corinth; 1 per 
cent sal soda; 25 per cent salt. 
RED. 
Three per cent benzo fast red 4 B; 

1 per cent sal soda; 25 per ceat Glau- 
ber's. 

DARK GREEN. 
Seven per cent thion green B;,8 per 
cent sulphide soda; 3 per cent soda 
ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. 
ECRU. 
One per cent thion brown G; 1 per 
cent sulphide soda; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent Glauber's salt. 
FAWN BROWN. 
One per cent diamine fast yellow A; 

2 per cent diamine brown M; x per 
cent sal soda; 20 per cent salt. 

NAVY BLUE. 
Five per cent diamine dark blue B; 
2 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's salt. 



BEDSPREADS-Crochet Quilts. 

Bedspreads, also termed bed quilts, 
coverlets and counterpanes, are, as 
the names imply, used as coverings 
for bed clothing. 

Being primarily decorative fabrics, 
most of them show elaborate jacquard 
designs of a type peculiar to this class 
of fabric, the use to which they are 
subjected necessitating a design of a 
large, bold character that is complete 
in itself in each quilt. 

Quilts are of various sizes, ranging 
from crib quilts. "SxGS inches, to large 
quilts, 92x108 inches. 



For metal beds the quilts are some- 
times cut at the four corners so they 
will hang better and make a neater 
appearance. 

Being a type of fabric of universal 
use in civilized countries, for all class- 
es of people, quilts are necessarily 
made in widely varying qualities. 
They are also made in varying single 
and compound structures of cloth, and 
in varying types of designs. 

THREE PRINCIPAL TYPES. 

Three of the principal types of 
structures are seen in quilts known as 
crochet, Marseilles and satin. The 
first is a single fabric, where all yarns 
used show on one side or the other. 

The second is a compound fabric, in 



which the extra yarns are generally 
used for the purpose of adding weight 
and at the same time producing an em- 
bossed pattern on the face. 

The third is a double cloth, reversi- 
ble, with some types of designs in 
which each of the single cloths alter- 
nate from one side of the quilt to the 
other, according to the pattern re- 
quired. 

These three types will be considered 
in the above order. 

It may be mentioned here that there 
are other names of quilts, as Toilet, 
Albany, Mitcheline, Duree, Grecian, 
Embroidery, Tapestry, Kensington, Al- 
hambra and Honeycomb, but these 
may be included in one or other of the 
three principal types mentioned. 
CROCHET QUILTS. 

The term crochet quilt does not 
mean that said fabric is crocheted 
with needles, but refers to the simplest 
type of woven single cloth quilt made 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



20.: 



with medium or fine counts of yarns. 
Honeycomb and Alhambra quilts are 
of the same class, differing principally 
in the type of design used. 

This class of quilt, for full size 
quilts, shows variations in size from 
about 68x82 inches to 80x90 inches, 
and in weight from about one pound 12 
ounces to three pounds 9 ounces, per 
quilt. 

THE ANALYSIS 
of an unbleached crochet crib quilt 
shows the following data: Width, 31 
inches; 84 ends and 72 picks per inch; 
24s warp, 12s soft twisted filling. The 
warp contains 2,600 ends and is reed- 
ed three ends per dent in a 26-dent 
reed. The cloth will finish about 28 
inches wide. 

By reference to Fig. 1, it may be 
seen that the pattern is a stripe com- 
posed of four sections in each repeat, 
as follows: First, a section of honey- 
comb effect, formed by weave Fig. 2, 

■DBDnn 
aaaaaa 

■■■DID 
DHOBDB 

mouaan 
amnnan 

Fig. 2. 

■aaaBaBaaaoBDaDaBaaDaaaBnBnanann 
DBnnBnacaaBBaanDBDBiinBDaBaBBnBDB 
DaDBDaaaaDBnaaaBDanBnaDaBDBDBnBB 

DBnBDBnaBDaDBDBBnBnBDBnDBDBDBDBB 
SR5S2S22S2SSH"°S°"DD»D"D"DBBnBDD 

BDaDBDBaaBaBnBDnBnaDBDBBQBDBnaDa 

BaBBnBnBDBnnBDBBOBDnBDBBDBODBCBD 
pBnBDBDnBnBnBnBBDBnBDBDDBnBDBDBB 

R5RS2S22S2SS"°""f^"°"aBnn3DBDBnBB 

DBanBDBBaBaDBDBnBnBBnBDBDBDDBDnB 

Fig. 3. 

on 6x6; second, a continuous floral ef- 
fect, filling flush weaves; third, a 
crepe effect, formed by weave Fig. 3 
on 32x12; fourth, like the second sec- 
tion, but dropped 78 picks, one-half 
the number in each repeat. 

There are a little more than 12 re- 
peats in the entire width. The sel- 
vedges are each one-half inch wide, 
reeded the same as the ground, and 
show an angled twill weave effect. 

The length of the pattern filling way 
is 2 3-16ths inches and requires 156 
picks for a repeat. 

As there are 200 ends in a repeat of 
the design, a 400-hook jacquard might 
be used, each pick of the pattern be- 
ing read twice on each card. 

THE LOOM REQUIRED 
for this type of fabric is of medium 
weight. The pattern being small, a 
small jacquard head of the ordinary 
rise and drop type, or, if the weave 
is not required to be changed to form 
the headings of the quilt, a double ac- 
tion head may be used. 



For the sample shown, if required 
to have headings at both ends to com- 
plete the quilt, differing in weave 
from the ground, what is termed a 
double or single acting automatic aux- 
iliary cylinder jacquard would be the 
most economical to use. 

If the ground weave was required 
to be repeated 25 times between head- 
ings, an ordinarj' jacquard attachment 
would require 25x156 picks in repeat, 
equalling 3,900 cards for the ground, 
whereas with the auxiliary cylinder 
machine 156 cards only would be re- 
quired for this same section. 

For larger patterns, the capacity of 
the jacquard would be required to cor- 
respond, i. e., with more than 400 ends 
in a repeat. 

FINISHING. 

The goods are generally woven 
white from unbleached yarn, and are 
bleadhed and finished after they leave 
the loom. A quilt will shrink in width 
about 10 per cent from the gray to the 
finished state, and increase about 1 
per cent in length. 

After bleaching, starching and blu- 
ing, they are cut, hemmed or fringed 
as desired, inspected, rolled or folded, 
tagged and papered, 

It is not advisable to leave finished 
quilts unpapered for any length of 
time if in the same building as the 
bleach house, because the fumes from 
the bleaching liquors take out the blu- 
ing in a short time. If this is done 
after the quilt is folded, the bluing 
is taken from the outer layers only, 
and uneven, poor-looking quilts result. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns of which bedspreads are 
composed are made in mills of the 
second division. There is one feature 
about the filling yarn which is not 
comimoa to all fabrics, and that is, it 
is what is called soft twisted. The 
counts of yarn which make up the 
fabric to be described in this article 
are 24s warp and 12s filling. 
THE WARP YARN 
is made froim 1%-inch staple Ameri- 
can cotton, while the filling yarn is 
made from a good grade of 1-inch sta- 
ple American stock. The mixing is 
done in the usual manner, which has 
been described many limes before, 
separate bins being used for the two 
staples. The good sliver waste from 
all machines up to the slubber is mix- 
ed in at the bins. This sliver should 
be spread over the entire mixture and 
not bunched in one place; it should 
also ibe broken into short lengths so 



206 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



that it will not be so apt to become 
tangled around the spikes of the hop- 
per. This hopper should be kept full 
so as to feed an even amount of cot- 
ton to be struck off by the pin roller 
at the top of the lifting apron. 

The raw stock for both warp and 
filling yams is put through three proc- 
esses of picking, the breaker picker 
being generally connected directly to 
the opener. Many different kinds of 

BEATERS 

are used by different mills, eadh claim- 
ing certain advantages over the other, 
bui the style of beater in most generaJ 
use throughouit the mills is what is 
known as the two-bladed or armed 
rigid type of beater, althou^ many 
mills use a three-bladed bea4;er of the 
same style for the breaker picker. To 
sharpen the edge of this beater its side 
is planed. The spee'd of the beater used 
for the same stock and weight lap va- 
ries greatly in different mills and tihe 
speeds given below are the ones used 
in a mill making this class of goods. 
For the brea;ker picker the speed of 
the beateir (two bladed) is 1,500 revo- 
lutions per minute, for the interme- 
diate, 1,450 revolutions per minute, 
and for the finisher 1,350 revolutions 
per minute. The total weight of 

THE LAP 

at the breaker is 40 pounds or a 16- 
ounoe lap, at the intermediate 37 
pounds, or a 10-ounce lap, and at the 
finisher 39 pounds or a 14%-ounce lap. 
At the inteTmediate and finisher pick- 
ers the laps are doubled four into 
one. The draft of the finisher picker 
does not exceed three. At this picker it 
is cuistomary to mix in the roving 
waste both cut and uncut. The roving 
waste that has not been cut from the 
bobbin consists of that whicb is made 
by the speeder tenders when they are 
puttin^g in new sets of roving and tak- 
ing off single and double. Speeder 
tenders should never be allowed to cut 
off roving; all bad work being sorted 
out, charged and given to tbem to fix. 
All marks should be made small 
and near the bobbin. 

The laps from the picker are next 
put up 

AT THE CARD, 
the draft of which for this fabric should 
not exceed 100. The wire fillet used 
should be No. 33s for cylinder and 35s 
for doffer and top flats. The settings 
of the card should be the same as giv- 
en for leno cotton fabrics, although 
some overseers use a little wider set- 
tings for this class of stock. The speed 
of the licker-in should be 375 revolu- 
tions per minute, cylinder 165 revolu- 



tions per minute, and the flats should 
make one complete revolution every 50 
minutes. The card should be stripped, 
ground and cleaned. The weight per 
yard of the sliver at the fix)nt should 
be about 65 grains per yard, the pro- 
duction for a week of 60 hours being 
750 pounds. This sliver is next put 
through three processes of 

DRAWING FRAMES, 
the doublings at each process being 6 
into 1. For this class of goods metal- 
lic rolls may be used to grea)t advan- 
tage. If leather top rolls are used, 
they should be varnished frequently 
and kept in good repair. See that all 
parts are working properly, especially 
those parts whicb coil the sliver into 
the cans, beoause if these are not 
working properly, the sliver cannot be 
run out at the next process without a 
great deal of breaking back of the 
sliver. Imperfect coiling of the sliver 
is a great many times caused by the 
cans themselves, they being out of 
true or having broken parts sticking 
out and coming in contact with part 
of the machine and stopping the can 
from turning. The only remedy for 
imperfect coiling is to run it over 
again. 

The spread of the front roll of the 
drawing frame at each process is 375 
to 400 revolutions per minute. The 

WEIGHT OF THE SLIVER 
for warp yarn is 70 grains and for the 
filling yam, 80 grains per yard. These 
slivers are put up to the slubber and 
made into .40 hank for the 1-inch 
stock and .60 hank for the l%-in<ih 
stock. The process of fly frames for 
the 1%-inch stock and the hank roving 
made at eadh process are as follows: 
First, 2 hank, and second, 6. From 
here it is taken to the ring spinning 
room and made into 24s yarn on a 
frame having a 2%-inch gauge of 
frame, 2-inch diameter ring, a 7- 
inch traverse, 23.27 twist per inch and 
a spindle speed of 9,600 revolutions 
per minute. The yam is then spool- 
ed and put through a warper and these 
warps put up at the slasher, the re- 
quired number of ends being run on 
a beam at the front. 

The slubber roving for the filling 
yarn is put on the first intermediate 
fly frame and made into 1 and then 
into 2.5 hank at the next process, after 
which it is taken to the mule room 
and spun into 12s yam with a twist 
per inch of 2.75. 

After leaving the loom, quilts 
are first boiled for 10 hours with a 
CAUSTIC SODA SOLUTION 
at 4 degrees Tw., rinsed well with 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



207 



water and boiled lagain with a 4 de- 
gree Tw. caustic so'da, 10 hours; rinsed 
well with water, soured with one-half 
degree Tw. oil vitriol, rinsed with wa- 
ter, chemicked with one-half degree 
Tw. chloride of lime solution, soured 
with 1 degree Tw. oil of vitriol and 
rinsed two or three times with water. 
The goods are placed in the kiers, each 
piece sepiarate, and handled very care- 
fully throughout the whole operation. 



BEDSPREADS-Marseilles Quilts 

Marseilles quilts are characterized 
by large embossed effects, usually of 
elaborate floral or geometrical design, 
each pattern occupying an entire quilt. 
The general effect is similar to what 
would be formed by stitching a pat- 
tern on a fine plain cloth, which effect 
is made more prominent in the better 



used reverses fi'om the centre in both 
directions, warp way and filling way, 
as in Fig. 1. 

When designing for this type it is 
necessary to make only one-quarter of 
the figuring design, the same o<;cupy- 
ing only one-sixth of the total num- 
ber of ends in the warp, or one-half 
of the stitching ends. The jacquard 




Figl 



tie-up is on the point or centre draft 
principle, /^ , which doubles the 
capacity of the machine as compared 
to a straight tie-up, and there is an 
attachment on the loom by which the 
cards are reversed when the centre of 
the quilt is reached filling way. 

When considering the plan for the 
card cutter only one-half of the s'titch- 











w 
W 

w 


N ON 

/ / / • / / 
/ / / • / . 
> NO N 

N N ^ 
/ / / ^ / • 
/ / / ^ /• 
N N NO 


N N \ 

/ / / / / / 
/ / / / / / 
N X N 
N , X ON 

/J / / m / / 

// / / • / / 

N NO N 


O X 

• / 

• / 
o 

X 

/ 

/ 


w 
w 

w 
w 


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/ / / / / 
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N N N 

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X N NO 


N N N 

/ / • / / / / 
/ / • / / / / 
N O N N 
N N O N 

/ / / / • / / 

/ / / / • // 

N N O N 


N 
/ 

/ 

N 

/ 

/ 


w 


N On 

/ / / • / / 
/ / / • / / 
\ NO N 

ON N 
/ • / / / / 
/ • / / / / 
XO V N 


N N N 

/ / / / / / 
/ / / / / / 
V N N 
N N N 

/ / / / / / 

/ / / / // 

X N X 


O X 
« / 
• / 

o 

X, 

/ 
/ 




z s s 


5 S 


S 



grades of goods by weaving a coarse 
plain cloth at the back and insert- 
ing wadding between the face and 
bajck Cloths. When wadding is used 
the stitching points form deep furrows, 
which indicate the pattern. 
One of the principal types of designs 



ing ends and one^half the back picks 
in each quilt are considered, i. e., 
when there are two face picks to one 
back pick. 

There are two types of Marseilles 
weaves, known as ordinary Marseilles 
and fast-.back Marseilles. The latter 



208 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



type is used for almost all but the 
lowest qualities of goods. 

Design Fig. 2 illustrates the princi- 
ple upon whicih an ordinary Marseilles 
weave is constructed, in which the 
wadding lies between the face cloth 

amnanm 
namamn 
naaBDD 
oamnma 
amaaam 

■aDDDQ 

Fig. 3. 

and the stitching, also teirmed binder, 
figuring, or black, ends. These ends 
when not required to be raised to form 
the pattern, remain at the back of the 
cloth and are not interlaced with the 



forcing the face cloth up, or embossin:; 
it. When these picks are inserted, all 
the face ends are raised. 

Fig. 3 shows the motif or order of 
stitching in Fig 2. 

FAST-BACK WEAVES. 

A fast-back differs from an ordinary 
Marseilles weave in having the fine 
filling; besides interlacing with the 
face ends, it also interlaces with the 
stitching ends when the latter are at 
the back between stitdhing points. In 
this way a double plain cloth is form- 
ed, either of which could be taken 
away an.d still leave a perfect single 
cloth. 

In fast-back Marseilles quilts, both 
face and back weaves are plain, the 















~ 




X ON 


N X Son 








V/ 


/ / / • / / 


/ / ' / ' / 


• / 








w 


/ / / « / / 


/ / / / / ^ 


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- Cs Ci >«. Cv, 1^ 


^ t. K cs c^ '^ ^ 


It ^' 


B 








V NO X 


N S. X 


o 










X NO 


N X O X 


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Ci>C> Cb.<S»tCiCi 


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\ \ 


/ / / / • / / 

N N O S 
X o S S 


/ 

X 








\AJ 


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X N X 


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S SOS 


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X ON 


S X O X 
S V s 


y 
o s 








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/ / /• / / 


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w 


/ / / • / / 


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CS (\c:s.JlN.Ci 


Ci.OsX(b.Cs CyCi. 


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B 








X NO X 


S S X 


o 










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V s s 


s 










c. X '^ <^ ^- cs jt 


Cs. C5, «S<^X <5>Ci^ 


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N O s s 


/ / / / / y 

X X s 


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s s s 




5 






1 



filling. On this account the distance, 
filling way, between the stitohing 
poiints is necessarily limited. 

In Fig. 2 the ends marked S are 
sititching ends, raised over the face 
cloth at on the face picks and at # 
on the wadding picks. 

The picks marked W, shown in type 
/, indicate wadding, inserted for 
the purpose of adding weight and of 



pattern being formed by the stitching 
points. 

In Fig. 4, whicih shows a fast-back 
weave completed to form the motif 
Fig. 3, ends S indicate stitoMng ends; 
W indicate wadding picks, and B In- 
dicate back picks. 

Marks / show all face ends raised 
when wadding picks are inserted; 
stitching ends are all down' on these 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



209 



same picks except where they are re- 
<iuir©d to be brought through the face 
cloth to form a stitohing point. 

When the back picks are inserted, 
all face ends are raised, as iadicated at 
CS , and one-half of the stitching ends, 
as at X, forming a plain weave at the 
back. 

The ends and picks not marked S, 
W or B form a plain weave on the 
face.. 

Marks show where stitching ends 
are brought over the face cloth, each 
stitching point covering two face 
picks, to define the pattern. 

A standard make of cloth made 
with suitable designs on the principle 
shown in Fig. 4 is as follows: Warp, 
40s. yarn for face, 20s for stitching, ar- 
rangeid 1 end of 40s, 1 of 20s and 1 of 
40s; 80 face and 40 back ends per inch, 
120 average sley. 

Filling 60s yarn for face and back, 
12s yarn for wadding, picked 1 Dick 
of 60s, 2 of 12s, 4 of 60s, 2 of 12s, 1 of 
60s, repeated; 200 picks per inch. 

The reason why the picks are ar- 
ranged as here shown in preference to 
arranging the>m 2 face, 2 wadding, 1 
back, is to enable an even number of 
picks of one count of filling to be in- 
serted before the shuttles are changed. 
This can be done on a loom having a 
single box at one end and a multiple 
box at the other. 

When a pick and pick loom is used, 
which is in the majority of cases, 4 
picks instead of 5 complete the round 
of filling, one pick of 6s taking the 
place of 2 of 12s for the wadding. 

The yarns in both warp and filling 
are usually arrauged 2 face to 1 back, 
making a fine effect on the face and 
a coarse one on the back; this in addi- 
tion to the wadding picks. 

Two warp beams are required, one 
of which,- that containing the stitching 
yarn, is more heavily weighted than 
the other in order to pull down the 
stitching points and make the em- 
bossed effect as prominent as possible. 
Thiis warp may be of equal or of dif- 
ferent counts from the face warp. It 
is usually of lower counts. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

The patterns being large and elab- 
orate, a jacquard head is of necessity 
used, although not of such a large 
capacity as would at first appear. 

The cards for this head control the 
action of the stitching ends only. 

An examination of Fig. 4 will show 
that only 2 ends are necessary to 
complete the face weave, every alter- 
nate face end working similarly. 

The face ends, two-thirds of the en- 
tire number, are worked most eco- 



nomically by harness shafts, generally 
placed at the rear of the comiber board. 

These shafts are worked from the 
head in a positive manner, independ- 
ently of the pattern cards. 

To weave a quilt like the one under 
consideratloa, say 90 inches wide, an 
1,800 hook head would be required, 
tied up point draft. 

The 20s warp would contain 3,600 
ends, and the 40s warp 7,200 ends. 







w^i^^^fw^^^^^^ 






Fig. 5. 

making a total of 10,800 eids in the 
quilt. 

The Crompton-Knowles Loom Co. 
builds pick and pick box looms, with 
rise and drop jacquard heads, with 
figuring caipacities up to 1,800 hooks, 
containing features or attachments 
specially designed for weaving these 
goods. 

On this type of loom Pig. 4 could be 
woven with 8 instead of 10 picks in a 
repeat, the action being asi follows: 
First pick, jacquard rises, carrying the 
hooks selected for stitching by pattern 
card; all face warp raised; wadding 
filling. Second pick, jacquard up; 
one-half of face warp up and the other 



210 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



half down; fi.ie filling; face pick. 
Third pick, jacquard up; face ends re- 
verse positionsi; fine filling; face pick. 
Fourth pick, jacquard drops and then 
rises again, carrying with it one-half 
every alternate one, of the stitching 
ends; all face warp^ raised; fine filling; 
back pick. 

ihe fifth, sixth and seventh picks 
are a repetition of the first, second and 
third, with penhaps the exception that 
a fresh selection of stitching ends 
have been raised. 

Eighth pick, jacquard drops, then 
raises the half of the stitching ends 
not raised, and leaves down the ends 
that were raised on the fourth pick; 
face ends all raised; fine filling; back 
pick. 

The principal advantage claimed for 
this machine over others is that the 
attaxjhment for raising the stitching 
enids, one-half every fourth pick, dis- 
penses with one-half of the number of 
cards ordinarily required. 

Two other methods are used for ac- 
tuating the stitching ends when back 
picks are inserted. First, by bringing 
jacquard cards, called plain cards, into 
play to work them; this method re- 
quires double the number of cards 
required for the same pattern on the 
Crompton-Knowles loom. 

Second, by using 2 comber boards, 
drawing the odd numbered ends 
through one and the even numbered 
ends through the other, and raising 
each board alternately every fourth 
pick. 

When this plan is adopted knots are 
put on the harness cords immediately 
above the comber boards so that when 
the boards rise the cords and ends 
are also raised. 

Light-weight Marseilles quilts are 
known as Toilet quilts. They vary in 
weight from about 2.5 pounds to 4 
pomds per quilt. 

Heavy-weight quilts vary from 3.5 
pounds in narrow quilts to 6 pounds 
for wide goods. 

In the lightest and cheapest grades 
of fabrics wadding picks are omitted, 
but when marie on the fast-back prin- 
ciple the back fillihg is considerably 
coarser than the face filling. 

The processes of finishin.s: are some- 
what similar to those exnlained in the 
article dealing with crochet quilts. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Marseilles quilts are of a better 
quality than the quilts described in 
the precedins: article, but are made in 
the same division of mills. The quilts 
under description require four differ- 
ent sizes of yarn. which are as follows: 



40s and 20s for warp and 60s and 12s. 
for the filling. For 12s yarn use cotton, 
of from % to 1 inch in staple; for the 
20s and 40s use 1% inch stock and for 
60s 1% to 1% inch stock, all Ameri- 
can cotton. For the filling yarn a soft 
twist is used and it is generally mule 
spun. Mix raw stock by usual method, 
of course the different staples being 
mixed in separate bins. Hand mixing 
is generally used on this class of 
goods, but it would be 

OF GREAT ADVANTAGE 
to use a bale breaker or willow to pre- 
pare the cotton before it is fed to 
openers. All stocks are put through 
an opener and three processes of pick- 
ing. The speed of the beater (rigid 
two-ibladed style) for all stocks except 
the %-inch is 1,500 revolutions per 
minute. For the short stock the speed 
should be increased so as to take out 
the extra amount of dirt which is al- 
ways in short staple cotton. The to- 
tal weight of the laps at the front for 
all staples should be 40 pounds or a 
16-ounce lap. At the intermediate the 
speed of the beater is 1,450 revolu- 
tions per minute for all stocks, except 
the short stock, where speed ^ould 
be increased. The total weight of lap 
at the front is 37 pounds or a 12-ounce 
lap for the finer yarns and a 10-ounce 
lap for the stocks for 12s and 20s yam. 
These are put up at 

THE FINISHER PICKER 

and doubled 4 into 1. At this picker 
the cut roving is mixed in in propor- 
tions that have been described in pre- 
vious articles. The speed of this beat- 
er varies from 1,400 tO' 1,500 revolu- 
tions per minute, according tO' the 
yiam being put through, the higher 
speed being used for the stock for the 
12s yarn. This gives the stock for 20s, 
40s and 60s about 42 beats or blows 
per inch. The total weig'ht of the lap 
at the front is as follows: 35 pounds 
for the 60s and 40s yarns and 39 pounds 
for the 12s and 20s yarns, or a 12i.^- 
O'unce lap for 1%-inch stock, and 14- 
ounce lap for the other stocks. A va- 
riation of one-half pound either side 
of standard is allowed for all the 
stock, except the %-inch staple, for 
which a variation of 10 ounces either 
side of staple is allowed. Follow in- 
structions about oiling, cleani'^g, etc., 
that have been given in previous arti- 
cles. 

THE CARDS 
should be fitted up with 34s wire fillet 
for cylinder and 36s for top flats and 
doffer. The draft of the card should 
be as follows: 110 for 60s and 40s 
varns and not over 100 for the shorter 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



211 



staples. Speed of licker-in is about 
325 for long staple and 375 for %-moh 
stock. Tlie speed of the flats for the 
different stocks is as follows: 1 com- 
plete revolution In 40 minutes for 60s 
yam, 50 minutes for 40s yam, 55 min- 
utes for 20s yarn and 60 minutes for 
12s yam. Strip cards three times a 
day, except for the %-in. stock, when 
an extra stripping of both cylinder 
and doffer should be made, although 
some overseers strip only three times, 
while others strip the doffer only an 
extra time. Use same 

SETTINGS 

for card as were given in the last ar- 
ticle except for the %-inch stock, 
when those for indigo prints should 
be used. The production for a 
week of 60 hours should be as fol- 
lows: 1,000 pounds for %-inch stock, 
800 pounds for the 20s yarn, 750 for 
40s yarn and 700 poundsi for 60s yarns. 
The weight of the sliver is 65 grains 
for all staples. 

The cotton for 60s is combed and the 
instructions, weights, etc., given in 
the lasit article may be used for the 
40s and 20s. The card sliver is put 
through three processes of picking and 
for the 129 only two' processes are 
used. Either metallic or leather top 
rolls may be used. We should recom- 
mend metallic rolls for the coarser 
work. 

The weight per yard at the finisher 
drawing should be 70 grains for all 
staples except the %-inch, which 
should be 80 grains per yard. The 
speed Off the front roll should be about 
400 pounds for coarse work and 350 
for finer staples. 

THE DRAWING 

is put up at the slubber and made in- 
to .60 hank for 20s, 40s and 60s yams 
and .40 hank for 12s yam. The roving 
for 60s and 40s yarns is put through 
three processes of fly frames' and for 
20s and 12s yams two processes are 
used. The hank roving for each yam 
anid the hank roving at each process is 
as follows: For 60s yam, iarst inter- 
mediate, 1.50; second, 4.50; and fin©, 
12.50 hank. For 40s yam first interme- 
diate, 1; second, 3; and fine, 8 hank. 
For 20s yam, first intermediate, 1.50; 
second, 4. For 12s yarn, first interme- 
diate 1, and second, 3 hank. 

THE ROVING 

for the filling yams is generally mule 
spun, because a soft twist is put in, 
about 2.75 x square root of yam being 
used. For the warp yam a ring frame 
is used. Of course if this fabric is 
made in a mill having only ring 



frames both yarns will have to be ring 
spun. The yarns for filling after be- 
ing spun at the mule are adl ready to 
be woven after being conditioned. 
For spinning 409 on a ring frame use 
a frame with 2 %-inch gauge, 1%-inch 
diameter of ring, 6i/^-inich length of 
traverse, 28.46 twist per inch and 
spindle speed of 10,000 revolutions per 
minute; for 20s use a frame with 2%- 
inch gauge, 2 inches diameter of ringi 
7 iuiches length of traverse, 21.24 twist 
per inch and spindle speed of 9,400 
revolutions per minute. After pass- 
ing the ring frame the yarn is^ spooled 
and warped and the 40s yarn is put 
through, the slasher. 



BEDSPREADS-Satln Quilts. 

Satin quilts, so called, are distin- 
guishe'd by having a fine, smooth 
ground, fi-om which the pattern ap- 
pears to stand up. This pattern is 
made with coarse filling interlaced 
with a comparatively fine warp. The 
latter is almost lost to view in the 
coarse filling, unless, examined close- 
ly. 

The coarse filling floats over the 
ground yao-ns to form the pattern, and 
under them when not required to form 
the pattern, being bound with 
binding yams, so called, generally in 
plain cloth order. The binding warp 
is all dO'wn when the ground filling is 
inserted. 

The ground yarns, warp and filling,. 
axe of medium counts. 

Pig. 1 illustrates the effiect. 

The term satin is proibably used on 
account of the fine appearance of the 
ground, and not from any reference to 
the weave, as both ground and figuring 
weaves are generally plain. 

MINOR VARIATIONS 

in weave have been made from time to 
time, and patents granted for them, 
with the result that these goods are 
now sold in the market under differ- 
ent names. In 1868 a paJtent was 
granted for this type of quilt, known 
then and now as Mitcheline, in which 
a bold figure is generally woven on a 
plain ground, the figure being plain, 
twill or satin as desired. 

Other names now used for practi- 
cally the same type of quilt are Duree, 
patent satin, embroidery and Kensing- 
ton. 



212 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



Although generally woven white, 
some 

VERY GOOD EFFECTS 
are obtained in satin quilts by using 
colored ends in stripe form for the 
ground, as in Fig. 2. 

An analysis of the sample illus- 
trated in Fig. 2 shows the following 
data: Ground warp, 30s; binding warp, 
20s; ground filling, 30s; coarse filling, 
3s. 

All binding ends are white ends. 

The ground warp yarns are ar- 
ranged 3 white, 3 blue, alternately. 

There are G9 ends per inch, 46 of 



The complete weave is illustrated 
in Fig. 4, where ends B, every third 
end, are binding ends; picks C are 
coarse picks. Solid squares show 
where these ends and picks interlace 
to form a plain weave. Marks x show 
where the ground ends and ground 
picks weave plain. 

Marks . (dots) show where the 
ground warp is raised wlien coarse 
filling is iniserted, leaving the latter 
at tihe back as not being required to 
form the pattern. 

On the same picks in which tliese 
marks occur it may be noticed that 



J 



Fig. 1. 



30s and 23 of 20s, arranged 2 of 30s and 
1 of 20s alternately. 

The warp yarns are usually arrang- 
ed 2 ground, 1 binder, although other 
arrangements are used. The filling is 
aoTanged 2 of ground and 2 of coarse, 
or 1 pick of each alternately. 

The principle of construction of sat- 
in quilt weaves is illustrated in Figs. 
2, 3, and 4. 

The effect seen in Fig. 2 is like the 
motive Fig. 3, each end of which rep- 
resents 18 ends in the cloth; eacli pick 
in Fig. 3 corresponds to 8 plokis in the 
cloth. 



some of the ground ends, indicated by 
— =, are down, allowing the coarse 
filliing to float over them. It is at 
these places ttiat'the latter forms the 
figure. In Fig. 4 these marks indi- 
cate filling. All other marks indi- 
cate warp. 

Two beams are required. The 
ground beam is more heavily weighted 
than the other, thei idea being to al- 
low the coarse filling to show as 
prominently as posisible,and tlhis filling 
passing first to one side of the cloth 
and then the oither, and lying practi- 
cally flat, not being bent out of a 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



213 



straight line by the warp, necessitates 
the binder warp being held somewhat 
slack. 

The goods vary in weight from 
about 3 to 5 pounds. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

Satin quilts, although containing 
fewer ends than Marseilles quilts, re- 
quire a much larger number of hooks, 
usually from 2,400 to 3,600. 

Sometimes it is necessary to use 
two jacquard heads over one loom. 
The loom part itself is somewhat sim- 
ilar for both types of quilts. Two 




Fig. 2. 

shuttles are used, one for each count 
of filling, picking 1 and 1 or 2 and 2 
alternately as required. 

The Crompton-Knowles Looim Co. 
build a jacquard head designed espe- 
cially for weaving satin quilts. It is 
built straight-lift, or rise-and-drop as 
desired. 

With this machine the ground 
picks are woven plain, satin, or twill 
as desired, without the action of the 
oards or cyliuider. This saves labor 
in making the design and cutting the 
cards because in making a desiga the 
figure only need be dealt with. The 
binder ends, working plain all the 
time with the coarse picks, may be 
drawn tlirough harness shafts and 
worked from the head, irrespective of 



the cards, as in Marseilles weaving. 
The cards actually need actuate 
only the ground ends on the coarse 
picks, the remainder of the ends and 
picks being actuated in a positive 
manner by the head. 

FINISHING. 

The finishing of white quilts is 
about the same for all types, with the 
exception that soime neeid more blue 
and starch than others. Briefly, they 
are bleached, washed to reraiove the 
acid, run through blue mangle, 
starched, dried, cut, hemmed, or 
fringed, inspected, folded, ticketed, 
bundled and packed. 

In some mills it is the custom oo 
weave the number of the loom on each 
quilt as it is beinig woven, so that if 
any defect shows up in any of the sub- 
sequent pro'cesses it can be readily 
traced to its source. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Satin quilts are made in the same 
division of milis> as the fabric de- 



DBDHDB 

■■■DDD 
■QBDaa 
■■■ODD 



Fig-. 3. 

scribed in the last article. The coitton 
used is similar. The make-up of satin 
quilts differs in different mills and even 
in the same mill different grades of 
this fabric are made. The quilt that 
has been analyzed for this- article is 
made up of the following counts of 
yarns: 30s and 20s warp yarn and 3s 
and 30s filling ya^m. As stated above, 
all the yarns except the 3s would be 
made up of cotton of 1% to 1 5-16 inch 
staple. The 3s would be made from a 
shorter staple, say % to % inch, and 
mixed with waste, as •will be shown 
later. 

THE MIXING. 

The cotton for the w'arp and filling, 
except the 3s, is mixed in the usual 
manner and after being allowed to 
stand as long as possible (in order 
that it may dry out), the good waste 
from the machines up to the slubber, 
which is collected at regular intervals, 
is mixed in at this point, care being 
used to break up sliver waste into 
small lengths and to spread the sliver 
throughout the entire miixing, so that 
it will not all be fed to the feeder at 
once. In some mills a very small per- 
centage of comber waste is mixed in 



214 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



at this point, but it is not the general 
custom to use a mixture of this kind. 
For the 3s yarn the mixing is made 
uip of a certain per cent of waste, the 
exact percentage depending upon the 
mill making the quilts; it may be from 
25 to 60 per cent. Generally speaking, 
card and comber waste is used. 

PICKING. 

The finer mixture is put through an 
opener and three processes of picking, 
the speeds and other particulars be- 
ing the same as given in our last arti- 
cle for the number yarn. For the coars- 
er yarn only two processes of pick- 



would be the same as that used for 
bedspreads as given in the last arti- 
cle, e 
The other particulars given in that 
article may also- be used. Care should 
be taken to see that the wire fillet on 
the top flats does not become choked 
up with the fly. In cards that have 
been in use for some time it is the rule 
rather than the exception to find fly 
at this point. So'metimes an adjust- 
ment of the brush up may entirely 
remedy the defect, but if not the fly 
has to be picked out by hand; or a 
better way is to put the stripping 
brush on thei grinding brackets and 




ing are used, the speed of the beater 
at the breaker beiing 1,500 revolutions 
per minute, and at the finisher being 
1,400 revolutions per minute. The to- 
tal weight of the lap at the breaker 
is 40 pounds and at the finisher 39 
pounds, or a IG-ounce lap at breaker 
and a 15-ounce lap at finisher. A va- 
riation of 12 ounces either side of 
standard weight is allowed for these 
laps. Look out to keep your drafts 
so regulated that they will not cause 
the laps to split and lick. These laps 
are next put up 

AT THE CARD 
and as it is the custom to use but 
one count of Wire fillet in a mill, the 
count useid for this sityle of quilts 



drive it at a slow rate of speed until 
the fiats have made either two or 
three coimplete revolutions. 

ANOTHER POINT 

to look out for is to see that the 
top flats are ground perfectly even. 
A great many overseers, if they look 
at the flats sharply, will be surprised 
to see that they are grinding more off 
of the back of the flat than at the 
front. This may not be the grinder's 
fault, but may be due to a defective 
grinding device, the main point being 
that they are not grinding in the 
same manner as they are working. It 
is just as well to grind the flats _ at 
least once a year on a fiat grinding 
machine, the flats having to be taken 



A COTTON FiABRICS GLOSSARY. 



215 



off to do this; which of course means 
the loss of producition for that card 
for a certain length of time, but it will 
mean a better quality of sliver, which 
will more than offset the former, as 
a great deal closer settings may be 
used. 

THE PRODUCTION 

for a week of 60 hours for all oounts 
of yarn (in this article) except the 
3s should be 825 pounds and for the 
coarse yarn 950 pounds. The weight 
of the card isliver is 65 grains for all 
stocks. The yarn is next put through 
three processes of drawing for the 
finer counts and two processes for the 
coarse yarn. The top rolls used may 
be either leather covered or metallic. 
The advantages of both have been pre- 
viously stated. The speed of the front 
rolls for the longer staple cotton is 400 
revolutions per minute, and for the 
short stapl0425,if convendent; oritmay 
be run on the same line of machines 
as the longer staple cotton, when the 
speed of the front roll would have to 
be the s^ame. The weight of the sliver 
for the 30s and 20s yarn should be 70 
grains per yard and for the 3s, 80 or 85 
grains per yard. The sliver is put 
through the slubber and made into .60 
hank roving for fine counts and .40 
hank roving for the coarser count. 
The roving for the 30s is put through 
two processes of 

FLY FRAME, 

the haaik roving being as follows: Two 
hank for first intermediate and 6.25 
hank for the next process; for the 20s 
the hank roving would be just the 
same at the fiirsit intermediate, but 4.50 
at the last process. For the 3s the rov- 
ing would be put through only one 
more process, where it would be made 
into 1 hank roving. It is the general 
custom to spin the yarn for this class 
of fabric on mules on account of the 
soft twist being put into it, but in 
some eases the yarn is spun on the 
ring frame. The particulars given in 
previous articles for 20s and 30s yarn 
may be used, with the exception of the 
twist, which should be less than that 
given. If mule spun, the standard for 
twist used should be 2.75 times the 
square root of the count. If the 3s are 
spun on a ring frame, a frame should 
be used with a 2%-inch gauge, 1% 
inch diameter ring, 6i/^-inch trav- 
erse. After passing through the ring 
frame the warp yarn is put through 
the spooler and warper and then 
through the slasher, and finally run up- 
on a beam which has the required 
number of ends to make the quilt. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

SKY BLUE FOR STRIPES. 
One per cent diamine sky blue F P; 
2 per ceat sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's sialt. 

PINK. 
One-half per cent diamine rose B D; 
2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's salt. 

LIGHT YELLOW. 
One per cent chromine yellow G; 2 
per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's salt. 

LIGHT BROWN. 
One-half per cent naphtamine 
brown N; % per cent naphtamine yel- 
low N N; 2 per cent sal soda; 20 per 
cent Glau'ber's salt. 
RED. 
Four per cent benzo fast red 4 B; 30 
per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal so- 
da, 

LIGHT SLATE. 
One per cent diamine black B H; 2 
ounces diamine fast yellow B; 2 per 
cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glauber's 
salt. 

LIGHT GREEN. 

One per cent diamine sky blue F F; 
11/4 per cent diamine fast yellow F F; 
2 per cent sal soda, 20 per cent uiau- 
ber's salt; aftertreat with 2 per cent 
sulphate of copper. 

PEARL. 

One-quarter per cent diamine dark 
blue B; i/4 ounce diamine fast yellow 
B; 2 per cent sal soda; 15 per cent 
Glauber's salt; aftertreat with Va per 
ce.nt bi chrome; i^ per cent sulphate of 
copper. 



RAINCLOTH. 



Raincloth, commonly so-called, has 
no particular style of construction or 
character of weave, the name being 
acquired from the fact that the fab- 
ric is waterproofed during the finish- 
ing process. 

The most popular and best grades 
of raincloth may be defined as closely 
woven, smooth-face fabrics,made with 
twist warp, that is, cotton and wool, 
of cotton and worsted twisted 
together, and with all worsted or wool 
filling. The weave used for this fab- 
ric is what may be termed a five-har- 
ness satin '■ — -, , see Fig. 1. This fab- 
ric, as the name implies, is exclusively 



216 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



made up into raincoats or Cravenettes, 
worn principally as a covering in 
damp or rainy weather. The fabric, 
after it is finished, is impervious to 
water. 

Raimcloth is a piece dyed fahric. Such 
shades as drabs, fawns, light and dark 
browns and black are the prevailing 
colors. The warp yarn, as already 
mentioned, is a two-ply thread, com- 
posed of a very fine cotton thread and 
coarser count of worsted or woolen 
thread. The fabric is given a wool 
dye. The cotton does not take on col- 
or. The finished fabric presents what 
is termed a powdered effect, that is, 
little specks of white show over the 
entire surface of the fabric. 

The fabric may be elaborated by 
means of mercerized cotton threads 
being inserted at regular intervals in 

DBiriaaniiBDa 
nmammamamn 
Bmamommnma 

■nHBDHDHHn 'i 
■DMOBMnaDB 

QBHoaaaBD* ' ^ 
naaBHDHDaa 



Fig. 1. 

nmnnnDDDB 

DDDDnaaDBD 
DDD" nODBDn 

na^aamnaan 

DDDDBDnCnn 
pnnBDDnnnD 
DDBnoaDDDQ 

■□nnnnnnDD 

Fig. 2. 
Drawing-in Draft. 

both warp and filling, producing check 
or plaid effects, or by using a given 
number of solid worsted threads and 
a given number of twist threads ar- 
ranged in some order producing a 
stripe effect. The fabric is also va- 
ried as regards quality, in so far that 
it is made with coarser counts of yam, 
and less e^ds and picks per inch; in 
the cheaper qualities the plain weave 

and — 2 twill are much in evidence. 

Analysis follows of a first-class fab- 
ric: 

Width of warp in reed, 60 inches; 
width of fabric finished, 56 inches; 
ends per inch in reed, 84; ends in 
warp, 5,040. 

21x4 reed. 

Take-up of warp during weaving, 8 
per cent. 

Weight per yard finished, 10 ounces. 

Warp yarn 2-50s worsted counts, 
composed 1 end of l-30s worsted, 1 end 
1-lOOs cotton. 

Filling, 80 picks per inch in loom, 
l-35s worsted yarn. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

For plain raincloth, that is, a one- 



loom, speed from 1-lU lo 150 picks per 
minute, may be used; tor the five-har- 
ness satin weave liie warp is usually 
drawn in on lU harnesses straight 
draw, so as not to overcrowd the hed- 
dles and prevent chattng of the warp; 
for fancy raincloth the Knowles box, 
pick and pick loom is the one best 
suited for these fal^rics. 
FINISHING. 
The better quality of raincloth re- 
quires considerable attention in the 
finishing process. After the fabric 
comes froim the loom, it is dyed, the 
wool or worsted only taking color, the 
cotton in the warp yarn remaining 
white. Twist yarn is more or less ir- 
regular, that is, the cotton may be 
more prominent in some places than 
in others; this requires the fabric to 
be examined and where the cotton is 
found to be too prominent, it is dark- 
ened or inked in conformity with the 
ground color, after which follows the 
waterproofing process. Thisi consists 
of immersing the fabric in a combina- 
tion of ingredients, such as greasy 
matters of all natures, resin, paraffin, 
tannic acid, drying oils, salts of alu- 
mina, alums and carbonate of mag- 
nesia. After it is waterproofed, the 
fabric is pressed, made up into rolls, 
then made up into garments. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

As has been stated in the analysis 
of raincloth given above, the material 
used in the construction of the yarns 
is wool and cotton. As in the carding 
and spinning particulars only the con- 
struction of the cotton yarn has been 
described we will follow the usual cus- 
tom and give the processes, with the 
particulars at each stage, through 
which the cotton passes to produce the 
finished yarn. The count of the cot- 
ton yarn described for this fabric is 
100s. This may be made from either a 
fine, long-stapled Egyptian cotton or 
from a Sea Island cotton of a staple 
of 1% to 1% inches, the latter being 
the one most generally used. The bales 
of cotton are first stapled and graded 
and all those not up to standard 
length and quality are put one side, 
while the rest are mixed by hand. 

A LARGE MIXING 
is made so that there will be as few 
changes as possible in the yarn made 
from the different batches. It will be 
understood that it is often necessary 
to change certain partsof different ma- 
chines for almost every mixing so as 
to suit some peculiarity of the mixing 
ibeing made. These changes are gen- 



filling fabric, a broad Knowles dobbyerally slight and many times only 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



217 



mean the changes of certain speeds or 
settings, but when running the dif- 
ferent mixings the first lot run 
through should be carefully watched 
to see that it compares exactly with 
the foregoing mixture. 

SEA ISLAND COTTON 

of a long staple is put through only 
two processes of picking and an open- 
er. Soime overseers put the cotton 
through only one process. The beater 
used is generally of a two-bladed rigid 
type and if two processes are used the 
speed of the breaker is 1,300 revolu- 
tions per minute and the speed of the 
second, 1,100 revolutions per minute. 
As will be seen, this speed is reduced 
considerably from that of the other 
cottons that have been previously de- 
scribed and the reason is that a great- 
er speed of the beater puts in neps, 
which, as every one knows, is the one 
thing to be most feared, because dirt 
can be taken out, but it is almost im- 
possible to take out neps. To be sure, 
a greater portion of them are taken 
out, but it means mu^ih extra work 
and care to do it, so it is always best 
to see that none are put in. 
The beats per inch given to the 
cotton as it is passing through the 
finisher picker are 29. The total weight 
of the finished lap is 28 pounds or a 
9% -ounce lap. 

These laps are put up 

AT THE CARD. 

The settings used for this card should 
be close, a 12-l,000ths-inch gauge be- 
ing used to set the flats from the cylin- 
der aad a 5-l,000ths-inch gauge to set 
the doffer from the cylinder. The wire 
fillet used should be No. 34s for cylin- 
der and 3Gs for doffer and flats. The 
card should have as many working as 
possible and the speed should be one 
complete revolution every 35 minutes. 
The draft of the card should never be 
less than 130 and some overseers in- 
crease this to 175 or ISO on this class 
of work. The stripping should be 
done three times a day and grinding 
as usual. The card should be kept 
unusually fi'ee from fly and dirt and 
should produce from 250 to 300 pounds 
per week of 60 hours. The weight of 
the sliver should be 40 grains per 
yard. Another part of the machine 
that is changed differently from all 
other stock is the speed of the licker- 
in. This should be a great deal less 
than that used for other stocks for the 
same reason as given for the low speed 
of the beater. The speed of the licker- 
in should be dropped from 350 to 40C 
revolutions per minute (the usual 
speed) to about 275 revolutions per 



minute. The card sliver is next 
combed. The different 

COMBING PROCESSES 

vary, but those in most general use 
are as follows: sliver lap maciiine, 
ribbon lap machine and comber. The 
width of the lap is another part tliat 
has also been changed so that now it 
is 101/2 inches, whereas formerly an 
8%-inch lap was almost universal. The 
following particulars will be given for 
an 8%-inch lap; when a 10%-inch lap 
is used the proper weights may be 
calculated by proportion: The dou- 
blings at the sliver lap are 14 for an 
S%-inch lap and 20 for a 10y2-inch lap. 
The weight of a yard of lap at the 
front is 280 grains. These are put up 
at the ribbon lap machine and doubled 
C into 1. The weight of a yard of lap 
at the front of this machine is 265 
grains. The laps are put up at the 
comber and doubled according to the 
number of heads that the comber con- 
tains; formerly it was the custom to 
have six heads, but within the last 
few years a comber of eight heads is 
used. The 

PERCENTAGE OP WASTE 
taken out should he not less than 20 
for this class of stock and the trim- 
mings and settings should be as fol- 
lows: Combing starts at 5. Nippers 
open at 31/2, close at 914. Lifters down 
at 6% and up at 8% to 914. Top combs 
down at 5. Feed roll commences to 
move forward at 51/2. The start of the 
feed roll to a certain degree controls 
the percentage of waste taken out and 
is the part that is changed after the 
settings of the comber have been made. 
A later feeding means an increased 
amount of waste. The detaching roll 
moves forward at 5%. There is a great 
deal of difference in settings, of the top 
combs to segment and cushion plate 
to needles or cylinder, among comb- 
er men, but good settings even for this 
grade of stock are with an 18 gauge 
from cushion plate to half lap and a 21 
gauge from top comb to segment. 
Either a double or single row of 
needles in top comb may be used, both 
having their advantages and disad- 
vantaaes. The weight of the sliver 
should be about 35 grains per yard. 
The sliver is next put through two 
pi"o cesses of 

DRAWING FRAMES, 
the weight of the drawing at the fin- 
isher drawing being GO gi-ains per 
vard. Leather covered top rolls are 
generally used for this stock and 
should be kept in perfect shape and 
frequently varnished, as should the 
leather detaching rolls of the comber 



218 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



and the top rolls of the sliver lap and 
ribbon lap machines. Several good 
recipes for varnish have been given 
in previous articles, one of which may 
be used. The sliver is put through 
the slubber and made into .80 hank 
roving. The front top rolls of this 
machine are generally varnished and 
some mills use rolls of a larger diame- 
ter, claiming less licking. The twist 
put in is the square root of hank be- 
ing made. The slubber roving is next 
put through three processes of fly 
frames, the liank roving at each proc- 
ess being as follows: First interme- 
diate, 2.25; at the second intermediate, 
5, and at the jack frames, 20 hank. The 
standard twist per inch is the square 
root of liank times 1.10 at first and 
second intermediates and 1.20 at fine or 
jack frames. Care should be taken 
to see that the roving is properly laid 
on the bobbin and that the bobbin, 
when full, is properly built; also that 
the settings of the rolls and traverse 
are correct. This yam is either mule 
or ring spun. If ring spun the partic- 
ulars for a frame making 100s yarn 
are as follofws: Gauge of frame, 2% 
inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; 
length of traverse, 5 inches; speed of 
spindles, 9,400 revolutions per minute. 
This yam is then spooled and then is 
in shape to be twisted with the worst- 
ed yarn. 



Dyeing Particulars — Piece Dyeing. 

LIGHT OLIVE BROWN. 

One-half par cent anthracene acid 
brown G; 6 ounces anthracene blue C; 
2 per cent sulphuric acid; aftertreated 
with 1 per cent chrome. 

MEDIUM BROWN. 

One and one-hjalf per cent anthra- 
cene chrome brown D; Y2 per cent an- 
thracene yellorw B N; % per cent an- 
thracene acid blue D; 2% per cent sul- 
phuric acid; aftertreat with 2 per cent 
chrome. 

NAVY BLUE. 

Four per cent anthracene acid blue 
D; % per cent anthracene chrome vio- 
let B; 3 per cent sulphuric acid; after- 
treat with 1/4 per cent chrome. 

SLATE. 

One-half per cent anthracene blue C; 
% per cent anthracene- chrome brown 
D; 1 per cent sulphuric acid; after- 
treat with 1/^ per cent chrome, 

OLIVE. 

One and one-half per cent anthra- 
cene acid brown G; % per cent an- 



thracene brown; Yz per cent anthra- 
cene yellow B N; 1 per cent sulphuric 
acid; aftertreat with 1 per cent 
chrome. 

DRAB. 

Six ounces anthracene blue C; % per 
cent anthracene chrome brown D; 1 
per cent sulphuric acid; aftertreat with. 
1 per cent chrome. 

BLACK. 

Six per cent anthracene chrome 
black F E; 4 per cent acetic acid; 2 
per cent sulphuric acid; aftertreat 
with 2 per cent chrome. 

DARK BROWN. 

One per cent anthracene yellow B 
N; 3 per cent aithracen© chrome 
brown D; lYz per cent anthracene acid 
blue D; 3 per cent sulphuric acid; 2% 
per cent chrome. 

DARK GREEN 

Three per cent anthracene yellow 
B N; 1 per cent anthracene chrome 
brown D; 3 per cent anthracene blue 
C; 3 per cent sulphuric acid; after- 
treat with 3 per cent chrome. 



COTTON CASSIMERE. 



Cassimere was originally understood 
to mean a woolen cloth used for men's 
wear. This fabric differs from cash- 
mere in so far as the latter is finer 
and used principally for ladies' dress 
goods. Cashmeres are usually in solid 
colors only, and were originally made 
in Cashmere and neiar-<by regions from 
yam hand-spun from the flossy wool 
of thj© Casihmer© goat. 

"About the year 1816, a small herd 
was imported into France with the 
view to acclimatize them ajnd breed 
them for the sake of their wool, but 
the enterprise failed." The foregoing 
facts will suggest tliat this fabric is 
quite costly, consequently cheaper 
grades, cotton and wool imitations, 
have a liberal demand. 

In varying the quality of a fabric, 
the manufacturers have two objects in 
view: first, to reduce the cost; second, 
to retain the same general appearance. 
It then follows that the change effect- 
ed is of degree, notof kind,consequent- 
ly the variations usually consist in 
changing the number of ends and 
picks per inch, or substituting a high.- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



219 



er or lower 


grade of yarn as the case 


may be. 






ANALYSIS. 




— X X X 




25 1—1—1 




FACE WARP. 


3 ends Black. 


7 


— 1 Black and drab. 




— 1 Black and white. 


2 


— Black. 


1 


— Black and white. 


1 


— Black. 


1 


— Black and white. 


2 


— Black. 


7 


— 1 Black and drab. 




— 1 Black and white. 


1 


— Black. 


x2 


— Black. 


xl 


— Bleach. 


2S 






BACK WARP. 




1 Green x. 




2 Black. 




1 Drab. 




1 Black. 




1 Drab. 




3 Black. 




1 Drab. 




2 Black. 




1 Drab. 




1 Black. 




1 Drab. 




2 Black. 




1 Drab. 




3 Black. 




1 Drab. 




1 Black. 




1 Drab. 




4 Black. 




28 


X Alternate garnet. 




PACE WARP. 



11 ends Black 2/30. 
8 ends Black and drab 2/30. 
8 ends Black and white 20/60. 
1 end Bleach 2/40. 

28 

BACK WARP. 

19 ends Black 2/30. 

5 ends Drab 2/30. 

1 end Green 2/30. 

2S 

ENDS IN PACE WARP. 
726 ends Black. 
52S ends Black and drab. 
528 ends Black and white. 

66 ends Bleach. 



40 ends selvedge. 



ENDS IN BACK WARP. 
1,254 ends Black. 
528 ends Drab. 
33 ends Green. 
33 ends Garnet. 



l.S 



40 ends selvedge. 

1,888 
Pilling 60 picks per Inch, 2/26s black cotton. 

Width of warp in reed, 34 inches. 
Width of fabric finished, 31 inches; out- 
side ends per inch. 111; 500x8 reed; 
©nds in face warp, 1,848; 20 eads 2-30s 
■wtiite selvedge; total ends in face warp, 
1,888; ends in back warp, 1,848; 20 
ends 2-30s white selvedge; total ends 
in Ijack warp, 1,888; total ends in face 



and back warp, 3,776; take-up of faoe 
warp during weaving, 10 per cent; 
take-up of warp during weaving, 
6 per cent. 

Weight of fabric per yard from, loom, 
7.85 ounces. Weight of fabric per yard 
finished, 7 ounces. 

Wh©n both warp and filling are 
changed from wool to cotton, as with, 
the cassimere under consideration, the 
general appearance may be reftaimed, 
but the feel or liandle of thefabric will 
be entirely different — so much so that 
it will he apparent to the buyer. 

When such radical changes are 
made in fabrics as to substitute cot- 
ton for wool, it oan no longer he sold 
under the same name; it therefore fol- 
lows that the fabric be designated, as, 
for instance, cotton cassimere. 

In making these cheapier grade fab- 
rics the methods of manufacturing are 



cnaaBDHDnnDnafflnD 
DaBiH)HnnDDa«D«L;nD 

■nBODDnGHaBDCDDD 
BDDaaDHDBDDDnaBffl 

naDDHsnaDDaDiinHD 
DJBaHaDnDDHaBDnD 
H BBnanaGBaHoaaDD 
BnnDnDMSBDnoDnBD 

C JDnBDBDaaOQBfflBD 

D ::HSBaDDanHa«nDD 

BDHDDODDBSiBDDDnn 
BDaDaDBnBaDDDDBffl 

DoaDBBisaaDDDBaBn 

DaBDBnDDDaBSBDaD 

BEaBCjnanDBDBDDDoa 

BDaDDDBHBDaGDDaa 



DDnDOBDD 
DDBDDDDD 

DonnaanB 
DDDaBDaa 

DBDDDDDn 
□DDDDDDB 

DDDBoana 
BnnDDDnn 



simplified as much as possible, chiefly 
because the profit will not admit of 
any unnecessary expense. No intricate 

9 

weaves are used; such weaves as ^ 
twill, =-^ basket weave and common 
rib weave are principally used for op- 
erating face warp. These fabrics are 
generally made with two warps. The 
back warp interlaces with filling on 
the 8-harness satin order. 

(See Fig. 1.) These fahrics are 
confi^ned to 16 harness, 8 hamess 
for face warp and 8 for back 
warp; the warp is drawn in one end 
face, and one end back, the first end 
of face warip on the first liarness, the 
first end of back warp on second har- 
ness. CSee draft. Fig. 2; Fig. 3, chain 
draft.) 

The back warp for these fabrics is 
usually plain yarn, twist yam being 
too expensive and the pattern of the 
back warp usually differs from the face 
warp in regard to the color arrange- 
ment, but the numbier of ends must be 
the same, if one end face warp and 
one end back warp fabric is requireid. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

These fabrics may be woven on any 
box, harness loom. The Crompton 
and Knowles would probably be the 
most economical. The loom sihould 



220 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



liave stands for two warp beams, one 
for face warp and one for back warp; 
in some instances both warps are 
beamed on one beam, the back warp 
beamed tight because of less take-up. 

FINISHING. 

After the fabric comeis firom the 
loom, it is burled, examined and mend- 
ed if -necessary. The face of the fab- 
ric is sheared, after which it is run 
through a rotary press. The fabric, in 



off. This beater should be so adjusted 
that the proper amount of cotton is 
passed to the breaker picker, which is 
generally either directly connected 
or is connected by trunking or lattice 
work to the opener. The beater of the 
breaker picker for this kind of stock is 
generally of a two-bladed rigid type 
and its speed is 1,550 revolutions per 
minute. The total weight of the lap 
at the front is 40 pounds or a 16-ounce 
lap. These laps are put up a)t the in- 



I equals faoe ends 
I equals back endo 



Fig. 2. 



passing through the press, runs over 
a perfoirated steam pipe, which par- 
tially saturates the fabric, then it is 
pressed by passing through heated cyl- 
inders, after which it is made up into 
rolls, then shipped. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Different mills make cotton cassi- 
mere out of different counts of yarn, 
but the fabric under description is 
comiposed of 2-30s warp and 2-26s fill- 
ing. These yams would be made in 
a mill beloinging to the second division 
as given in a previous anticle. The 
yarn would be made from American 
cotton of a fair grade, having a staple 
of about 1% inches. The mixing 
should be done by one of the various 
methods that have been given in pre- 
vious articles. The only point to be 
looked out for is to see that the cot- 
ton is thoroughly dry and aired out 
before being put through the opener. 
For this class of fabric the raw stock 
is put through three processes of pick- 
ing and an opener. The good waste 
from all machines up to the slubber is 
mixed in before the cotton is fed to 
the opener. This waste should be 
picked up at regular and frequent in- 
tervals and spread throughout the en- 
tire mi.xing, and snould not be allowed 
to accumulate in large lots, but should 
be run up as fast as collected. The 

LIFTING APRON 
should always be carrying up a load 
of cotton for the pin beater to strike 



termediate picker and doubled four in- 
to one. The beater of this machine is 
also generally of a two-bladed rigid 
type, the speed of which is 1,500 rev- 
olutions per minute. The total weight 
of the lap at the front of this picker is- 
37 pounds or a 10-ounce lap. These 
laps are put up at 

THE FINISHER PICKER 
and doubled four into one. It is at 
this point that the cut roving waste 
is mixed in with the raw stock. This- 
is done by two methods, both of which 
have been described in a previous ar- 
ticle. If done by hand, care sihould be 
taken to see that the percentage of cut 
waste mixed is not too great, because 
this is apt to- cause licking of the 
laps when they are being run at the 
card. The beater of this machine 
may be either a two-bladed rigid or 
a pin beater, either of which has its 
advantages. If of the 1wn)-bladed rig- 
id type, the sipeed should be 1,450 rev- 
olutions per minute. This gives the 
cotton paS'Sing under its action 42 
beats per inch. Care should be taken 
to see that all the draftS' in the 
pickers are properly directed where 
they will do- the most good. The total 
weight of a lap for this class of goods 
should be 39 pounds or a 14% -ounce 
lap. A variation of the standard of half 
a pound (either side) is allowed. All 
laps varying more than this are run 
through the finisher picker again. 
The packer laps are put up 
AT THE CARD. 
the draft of which for this class of 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



221 



work should not exceed 100. The wire 
fillet used should be No. 33 for cylin- 
der amd 35s for doffeir and flats. TMs 
is the American count of the wire; 
the equal English coumt is No. j.OOs 
for cylinder and No. 120s for doffer 
and top flats. The settings of the 
card should be the same as given in 
•connection with the article on "Indigo 
Prints." Strip cylinder and doffer 
three times a day and grind lightly 
at least once a month — twice a month 
is better — and then leave the grinder 
on half a day. The teeth should al- 
ways be kept sharp and never allowed 
to run faced. It is the geneiral rule of 
grinders to set cards after grinding in 
large rooms where several grinders 
are employed. It is better to have one 
grinder or boss grinder to set all the 
cards and hold him responsible. Keep 
cards clean, especially the front end 
around and over the doffer bonnet. 
The speed of the licker-in should be 
375 revolutions per minute. The flats 
make one complete revolution every 45 
minutes. The sliver at the front 
weiglis 65 grains per yard and the pro- 
duction lis 800 pounds per week of 60 
hours. 

THE SLIVER 

at the cards should be sized at least 
once a week to see how it is compar- 
ing with previous sizings. The sliver 
is next put through three processes of 
drawing frames, which may have ei- 
ther metallic or leather-covered top 
rolls. If metallic rolls are used, keep 
them clean, because if dirt and waste 
collect in the flutes of either the top 
or bottom rolls, cut roving is almost 
sure to result. Keep top and bottom 
rolls well oiled. If top rolls are not 
kept oiled and are allowed to become 
dry, bad work is sure to result. Also 
see that the calender rolls have 
enough pressure on them to cause 
them to condense the sliver properly. 
Look out to see that the trumpets 
have the right size hole at the small 
end. The drawing frame sliver should 
be sized at least three times a day, 
and if sized four times it keeps the 
work a great deal evener. The sliver 
from at least four heads of each 
frame is taken and sized separately 
and then averaged; a variation of not 
more than 5 grains either side of 
standard is allowed; if more than 
this, the draft gear is changed. 

THE DOUBLINGS 

at the drawing for this kind of work 
are 6 into 1 at each process. The 
speed of the front roller is 400 revolu- 
tions per minute. The weight of the 
sliver is 70 grains per yard. The draw- 



ing is next put through the slubber 
and made into .CO hank roving. It is 
not customary to varnish the slubber 
top leather rolls for this kind of work. 
See that the traverse is working prop- 
erly and that the top rolls are in 
perfect condition and set properly. 
Keep slubber as clear as possible and 
it will make returns many times over 
in extra production, which is often af- 
fected by dirt, fly, etc., getting be- 
tween the gears and filling up the 
teeth. 

THE SLUBBER ROVING 

is put through two more processes of 
fly frames, the hank roving being made 
at each as follows: First interme- 
diate, 2.00, and second intermediate, 
6.00 hank for the warp yarn and 5.25 
hank for the filling yarn. Try to 
keep the roving a little on the heavy 
side of the standard and don't put 
more twist into roving than is actu- 
ally needed to draw it so that it won't 
break back at the next process. Re- 
member that every extra tooth of 
twist put in cuts into the produc- 
tion to that extent. Keep the top 
rolls in good condition and change 
them frequently. Keep the chains 
clean and look out for bunches. Look 
out for single and double and 
watch the tension and the taper of 
the bobbin. Do not let the help fill 
up the bobbin after the frame has 
knocked off, but first be sure that the 
frame will knock off at the proper 
place. Keep frames well oiled and 
don't run bare spindles. 

ANOTHER THING 

to watch is jumping bobbins; set the 
gear properly to remedy this. Re- 
place all broken bolsters as soon as 
possible. After changing a frame 
over, use up all pieces from it as soon 
as possible. The roving for the warp 
yarn is spun on a ring frame having 
the following particulars for 30s yarn: 
Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter 
of ring, 1%; twist per inch, 26.02, and 
speed of spindle, 9,800 revolutions per 
minute. The yarn is then spooled, 
twisted into 2-ply yarn, spooled, and 
then warped, after which it is put 
through the slasher and run on to a 
beam with the requirea number of 
ends. The roving for filling may be 
either mule or ring spun; if the latter, 
use a frame with a 2%-inch gauge, 
1%-inch diameter ring and spindle 
speed of 8,000. This yarn is then 
twisted into 2-ply 26s, after which it 
is conditioned and then is ready to be 
used. 



222 



■ A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

BLACK. 

Ten per cent thion black T B C; 20 
per cent sulplliide sodium; 2 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent salt. 

BROWN. 

Ten peT cent thion brown R; 2 per 
cent thion violet black A; 1 per cent 
thion yellow G; 10 per cent sodium 
sulphide; 2 per cent soda ash; 25 per 
cent salt. 

DARK GREEN. 

Eight per cent thion green B; 8 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda 
asih; 20 per cent salt. 
PEARL. 

I'our ounces thion violet black A; 
1 per cent thion black T B C: 1 per 
cent sodium sulphide; % per cent soda 
ash; 10 per cent salt. 
DRAB. 

Three per cent thion green G; 3 per 
cent thion orange N; 6 per cent sodi- 
um sulphide; 2 per oemt soda ash; 20 
per cent salt. 

NAVY BLUE. 

Six per cent thion navy blueR; 2 per 
cent thion blue B; 8 per cent sodium 
sulphide; 3 per cent soida ash; 30 per 
cent salt. 

SLATE. 

One anid one-quarter per cent thion 
black T B C; 1^^ per cent sodium 
sulphide; 2 per cent soida ash; 10 per 
cent salt. 

RED. 

Twenty per cent thiogene rubine O; 
10 per cent sulphide sodium. 
BLUE BLACK. 

Ten per cent thion blue black B; 10 
per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent salt. 



ONDDLE FABRICS. 



Ondule fabrics are characterized by 
having one or both series of yarns, 
warp or filling, drawn out of a straight 
line, while yet remaining in the same 
relative positions, i. e., the curving of 
the yarns is not made by certain yarns 
crossing over others as in leno and 
similar fabrics. 

They may be placed in the novelty 
class. As such, the production is lim- 
ited in quantity in cotton goods by 
several factors, among which may be 
mentioned: First, costly loom attach- 
ments have to be applied in order to 



weave them to the best advantage; 
second, the demand is small and un- 
certain. 

Fig. 1 illustrates the effect formed in 
warp ondules, in which the filling re- 
mains in straight lines, as in any or- 




Fig. 1. 

dinary fabric. The warp forms the un- 
dulations. 

This type has not been developed to 
anj"" extent in cotton goods on account 
of the reasons mentioned, and for an- 
other reason. Some of the ends 
curve considerably more than others, 
necessitating the use of several warp 
beams in order to have the ends at 
such a tension that some will not be 




Fig. 2. 



slack in the shed, while others are 
tight. The sample in question, al- 
though containing only two different 
counts of warp yarns, one fine and one 
coarse, required five warps. 

It will be understood readily that a 
greater length of warp will be re- 
quired for a curved end than for a 
straight end in a given length of cloth. 

The white warp yarn in Fig. 1 is 
cotton. 

When woven in only one color or 
one count of warp 'the stripe effect is 
very faint. 

The ondule principle of construc- 
tion is not of recent origin, similar 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



223 



goods having been made to some ex- 
tent in the early part of the 19th cen- 
tury. 

Filling ondules are of more recent 
origin than warp ondules, and may be 
made much cheaper, one warp only be- 
ing required. Fig. 2 illustrates the ef- 
fect of a good filling ondule, in which 
the filling yarns form curved or wavy 
effects, the warp yarns remaining 
parallel to each other. The filling is 
considerably coarser than the warp, 
which accentuates the desired effect. 

Fabrics like Figs. 1 and 2, or of 
combinations of these two effects, may 
be made with similar loom attach- 
ments or devices. The attachment 
generally used consists of a suitable 
mechanism, varying in detail with dif- 
ferent makers, for imparting to the 
reed, which is very deep, an up and 
down movement, so as to bring a dif- 
ferent part of it to the fell of the cloth 
at each pick. 

The reeds used are of special con- 
struction. In those used for warp on- 
dules the dents are arranged some- 
what like Fig. 3, 




The top, bottom and face of the 
reeds are straight, as in oramary 
reeds. 

For weaving filling ondules the 
same device may be used for actuating 
the reed. The reed itself is made 
after the form shown in Fig. 4. The 
solid line indicates the top, and the 
dotted line the bottom of the reed. 
The dents are equal distances apart, 
both at the top and bottom. When 
this type of reed is used, a false reed is 
also used as a guide for the shuttle, as 
in lappet weaving. Another type of 
reed used is made fast at one end, and 
in loose sections at the other. These 
sections contain, say, three or four 
dents. An engraved or grooved roller 
is made to separate and change the 
positions of the sectional end of the 
reed as desired. 

Fig. 5 illustrates a cotton fabric in- 
tended to imitate the high-class fill- 
ing ondules. To obtain this effect 
two leno easers or slackeners have 
been used instead of the reed motion. 
There are 30 ends in each pattern, 15 
of which were placed over the first 
and 15 over the second easer. The eas- 



ers were then actuated so that the 
yarn over one of them wove slack for 
eight picks while the yarn over the 
other was held tight, then vice versa 
for eight picks. The selvedge ends 
were placed over the regular whip 
roll. Two warp beams were used, al- 
though one would perhaps have an- 
swered better. This is a simple meth- 



■^4. 



of obtaining the waves, but the effect 
obtained is not as good as when a spe- 
cial reed is used; nor can it be de- 
pended on, not being a positive mo- 
tion. The easers have to be adjusted 
to a nicety and kept in that condition 
or each alternate section will appear 
more prominent than the others. 

Fabrics showing a much better ef- 
fect than that shown in Fig. 5 may be 
produced by the yarn easing method. 

The construction data for the sam- 
ple is as follows: 

Ends per inch, 48; picks per inch, 
48; width; 27 inches; warp yarn, 50's 
cotton, combed American; filling 
yarn, 2-40s cotton, Sea Island, mercer- 
ized; 696 ends on number 1 beam — this 
includes 48 for selvedges; 648 ends on 
number 2 beam, total, 1,344 ends; 
weight, 8 yards per pound; reed, 1 end 
in each dent; the weave is plain on 
4 harnesses. The attachments can be 



Fig. 5. 

applied to and these goods made on 
any ordinary dobby loom. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

There ar© a great many different 
styles of ondules and these com- 



224 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



prise many different counts of yarn 
according to the grade and quality 
of the fabric being made. This class 
of fabric is made in mills of the third 
division, as given in a previous article, 
or at least those plants whose equip- 
ment of machinery includes combers. 
The fabric that has been selected out 
of this class of goods is made up as 
follows: For the warp, 50s yarn is 
used and is made of an American cot- 
ton, generally the kind called peeler, 
having a staple of I14 to 1 5-16 
inches, being used, and for this fabric 
is combed. For the filling yarn a Sea 
Island cotton of l^^ inches is used. 
This is also a combed yarn, the count 
of which is 2-40s. For this article we 
will take each yarn and treat it sep- 
arately, starting with the mixing. 

MIXING. 
First take the American yarn. This 
is mixed.as has been previously stated, 
at the mixing bin; the sliver waste 
from the machine up to the slubber is 
used. Care should be taken to see that 
too great an amount of this is not be- 
ing made at the different machines. It 
is impossible to avoid making this 
waste altogether, hut a large percent- 
age of it may be saved if watched 
carefully. This cotton is put through 
an opener and three processes of pick- 
ing. Keep the hoppers of the open- 
ers well filled so as to obtain as even 
a feed as possible at the breaker pick- 
er. The speed of the beater at this 
machine is 1,050 revolutions per min- 
ute. See that the pin beater is set 
properly to obtain the required weight 
per yard of cotton being fed to the 
breaker picker. This picker is gener- 
ally provided with a two-bladed rigid 
type of beater, the speed of which is 
1,550 revolutions per minute for this 
class of work. The total weight of 
lap at the front is 40 pounds or a 16- 
ounce lap. These laps are put up at 
the intermediate picker and doubled 
4 into 1. The beater of this picker is 
like that of the breaker, and its speed 
is 1,450 revolutions per minute. The 
total weight of the laps at the front of 
this picker is 37 pounds or a 12-ounce 
lap. The laps are put up at the fin- 
isher picker and doubled 4 into 1. 
The speed of the beater, if a rigid, two- 
bladed type, is 1,450 revolutions per 
minute, which gives the cotton pass- 
ing through it about 42 beats or blows 
per inch. The total weight of the lap 
at the front is 37 pounds or a 12%- 
ounce lap. A variation of one-half a 
pound is allowed either side of stand- 
ard; laps over or under this weight 
are run through the finisher again. At 
the finisher picker the cut waste from 



the fly frames is mixed in in the pro- 
portion of one lap of cut waste to three 
laps of raw stock. Be careful not to 
use too much cut waste, as it is apt 
to cause the laps to kick; also be care- 
ful to see that the drafts of the pickers 
are properly directed for the same rea- 
son. At the card the draft is not less 
than 300, a good draft being 120. The 
speed of the cylinder is 160 revolu- 
tions per minute; licker-.in, 300 revolu- 
tions per minute; and the top flats 
make one complete revolution every 34 
minutes. 

DOFFER AND CYLINDER. 
The doffer should be as large as pos- 
sible and clothed with a No. 35s wire 
fillet, as should the top flats; the cyl- 
inder is clothed with No. 34 wire fillet, 
the equivalent English count being 
120s for doffer and 110s for cylinder. 
Keep this wire sharp at all times, as 
dull wire is apt to cause kinked yarn. 
Grind at least once a month and reset 
all points after grinding. It is a gooid 
plan, a.lthough one not generally 
used, to brush out cylinder and dof- 
fer after grinding and hefore setting 
up. See that the grinding brackets 
for the top fiats- are set so as to grind 
the flats evenly across their face, 
when in their working piosition. This 
is 

A GREAT FAULT 
with most of the grinding devices and 
should be carefully looked into. See 
that the doffer stripping comb is set 
to clean the doffer of the web proper- 
ly. Strip cards three times a day and 
keep front free from dirt and fly. The 
total production for a week of 60 
hours, allowing 10 per cent time for 
stoppages, etc., is 550 pounds and the 
sliver weighs 45 grains per yard. The 
sliver is then comhed. 

BEFORE BEING COMBED 
it has to be run through several dif- 
ferent processes. The order of these, 
as well as the machines themselves, 
differs, but it is most general to have 
the machines as follows, especially 
for this class of work: Sliver lap ma- 
chine, at v?*hich the doublings for an 
8%-in'ch lap are 14 into 1, the draft of 
this machine being small, less than 2; 
the weight per yard is 285 grains; for 
larger width laps the doublings and 
weight per yard may be found by pro- 
portion; this IS a;lso true at the ribbon 
lap machine. At the ribbon lap ma- 
chine the doubling is 6 into 1, and 
the weig'ht of the lap is 265 grains per 
yard. These laps are put up 
AT THE COMBER 
and doubled according to the number 
of heads, 6 or 8 being generally used, a 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



225 



'6-]iea(i comber generally using an 8%- 
Inch lap and an 8-head comber a IQi/^- 
inch lap. Thesie particulars are given 
for the Heilmann combers and not 
the later foreign makes, which have 
been tried with varying success the 
last four or five years. For this stock 
take out 15 per cent waste and set 
time as given in a previous article. 
The sipeed should be about 95 nips per 
minute. Keep all the leather top rolls 
of sliver and ribbon lap machines as 
well as those of the draw box and 
detaching rolls of the comber in per- 
fect condition and well varnished. It 
Is a good plan to varnish the leather- 
covered detaching rolls once a week. 
A little trouble in this direction is well 
repaid. Look out to keep the per- 
■cemitages of 

WASTE 
at the different machines uniform. 

If two or more ends break down on 
the table, break end running into the 
can, and before piecing up again, see 
that all the ends are running. Combers 
should be scoured at least once a year, 
when they should be taken down and 
all parts reset and timed. Keep table 
smooth and polished and do not touch 
with the hands those parts over which 
the combed sliver is running. The 
weigh per yard of the combed sliver is 
40 grains. This sliver is put through 
two processes of drawing, being dou- 
bled 6 into 1 at each process. Leather- 
covered top rolls are generally used 
for this class of stock and they should 
be looked out for to see that they are 
well oiled and varnished and in per- 
fect condition. See that all stop-mo- 
tions are in working order so that 
single and double may be prevented 
as far as possible. The weiglit of 
the drawing is 70 grains per 
yard. This is put through the slub- 
ber and made into .50 hank roving, 
after which it is run through three 
processes of 

FLY FRAMES, 
the hank roving at each being as fol- 
lows: First, 1; second, 3, and jack, 
10 hank. Watch the leather rolls, 
also the shape and lay of the roving 
on the bobbins. Mark all roving 
small and distinctly near hobbins, and 
dO' not allow pieces to accumulate. This 
roving is taken, to the ring spinning 
room and made into 50s on a frame 
having a gauge of 2% inches, diameter 
of ring, IVz inches, length of traverse, 
6 inches, and spindle sipeed of 10,000 
revolutions per minute. The yarn is 
then spooled and warped, after which 
it is put through the slasher, where in 
addition to being slashed the re- 
quired number of ends are run on to 



one beam, and then it is ready for the 
weave room. 

The Sea Island cotton for 

THE FILLING YARN 
is put through either one or two proc- 
esses of picking, generally two. The 
speed of a two-bladed rigid type of 
beater at the breaker is 1,350 revolu- 
tions per minute, and the total weight 
of lap is 30 pounds or a 10-ounce lap. 
These laps are doubled 4 into 1 at 
the finisher picker. The speed of the 
two-bladed rigid type is 1,250 revolu- 
tions per minute, or about 29 blows 
or beats per inch of cotton passing 
through. The total weight of this lap 
is 28 pounds or a 9i/^-ounce lap. At 
the card the draft should not be less 
than 120, the speed of the licker-in, 
275 revolutions per minute. The top 
flats make one complete revolution 
every 35 minutes. The production is 
300 pounds per week of 60 hours, and 
the weight of the sliver 40 grains per 
yard. 

THE SETTINGS 
for the card should be somewhat 
closer than when carding peeler cot- 
ton; for example, the doffer should be 
set to the cylinder with a 5 gauge in- 
stead of a 7 gauge, and the flats should 
be set with a 10 gauge instead of a 12 
gauge, which is used to set peeler cot- 
ton. The other particulars given 
above may be also' used with Sea 
Island cotton. This sliver is next put 
through the same machines as given 
above for combing. The weight of the 
sliver lap machine is 240 grains per 
yard and the ribbon lap 220 grains 
per yard. The settings at the comber 
should be closer than those used on 
peeler cotton and the percentage of 
waste taken out should be 20 per cent. 
The weight of the sliver is 35 grains 
per yard. 

This sliver is put through two proc- 
esses of 

DRAWING, 
being doubled 6 into 1. The speed of 
the front roll should be 350 revolutions 
per minute, and the weight of the 
sliver 60 grains per yard. It is im- 
portant that extra care be taken with 
the top rolls, stop-motions, etc., when 
running this kind of stock, otherwise 
the particulars given with peeler cot- 
ton may be followed. The leather top 
rolls of the slubber are varnished for 
this stock and it is better to use rolls 
of a little larger diameter than 
those used for peeler cotton. The hank 
roving made at the slubber is .65, 
which is put through two processes of 
fly frames, the hank roving being 
made at each pro'ce=:s beins" as fol- 
lows: First intermediate, 2.25; anid 



226 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



second, 8 hank. Use a finer grain 
leather for the roll covering than that 
used for peeler cotton and look out 
for all the particulars given above, 
except that extra care should be 
given to the Sea Island stock. This 
roving is taken to the mule rooan and 
spun into 40s yarn, after which it is 
generally mercerized under tension 
and twisted into two-ply 40s, when it 
is ready to be woven. 



Dyeing Particulars. 
LIGHT SKY BLUE. 
Two ounces diamine sky blue F F; 
20 per cent Glauber's; aftertreat with 
% per cent sulphate copper. 
LIGHT PEA GREEN. 
One-quarter per cent diamine sky 
blue F F; % per cent diamine fast yel- 
low F F; 20 per ceat Glauber's salt; 
1 per cent sal soda; aftertreat with 1 
per cent sulphate copper. 
PEARL. 
Two ounces diamine brilliant blue 
G; 15 per cent Glauber's salt; after- 
treat with % per cent sulphate of cop- 
per. 

PINK. 
One-half per cent erika pink; 10 per 
cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal soda. 
CREAM. 
One-thirty-second ounce diamine 
fast yelloiw B; l-64th ounce diamine 
catechine 3 G; 10 per cent Glauber's; 
1 per cent sal soda. 

. LIGHT BROWN. 
One-half per cent diamine brown M; 
1 per cent diamine catechine 3 G; 20 
per cenit Glauber's; 1 per cent sal so- 
da; aftertreat with 1 per cent chrome. 
GREEN. 
Two per cent diaimine green G; 20 
per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal so- 
da. 

LIGHT SLATE. 
Two ounces diamine dark blue B; 
l-16th ounce diamine fast yellow B; 
10 per cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal 
soda; aftertreat with ^ per cent 
chrome and 14 per cent sulphate of 
copper. 

LIGHT SNUFF BROWN. 
Six ounces diamine catechine 3 G; 
6 ounces diamine catechine B; after- 
treat with Yz per cent chrome and y^ 
per cent sulphate of copper. 
SLATE. 
One per cent diamine black B H; 2 
ounces diamine fast yellow B; 20 per 
cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal soda; 
aftertreat with i/^ per cent Chrome; y2 
per cent sulphate of copper. 



UMBRELLA CLOTHS. 

The name given to these fabrics 
indicates the use to which they are 
subjected. It stands for cloths of 
widely different qualities, materiala 
and weaves. The weaves, with the 
exception of those used for umbrella 
ginghams,are of small repeating types, 
as plain, three-end twill, and five and 
six end twills of four interlacings in 
a repeat. 

Being subjected to extremes of 
weather,the constructions of the cloths 
are necessarily good. 

All-cotton umbrella cloths are usu- 
ally woven white, then piece dyed in 
solid colors. For cotton warp and 
worsted filling goods the warp yam 
is usually dyed before being woven. 
This is especially the case in colors 
other ithan black. It is much harder 
to get a fast color, ooe of the essential 
features of a good umbrella cloth, on 
union piece dyed goods than on yarn- 
dye'd goods. Black is the principal col- 
or used. 

IN THE BETTER GRADES 
of umbrella cloths it is common to find 
silk or wool in combination with 
cotton. These materials are some- 
times combined in the same yarn, be- 
ing mixed before being spun. In 
other cases the yarns on a beam are all 
of one malterial, and yarns of different 
materials, from separate beams, are 
used in one fabric. 

The analysis of a good grade of um- 
brella cloth shows it to have been 
made of silk and cotton, the selvedges 
being of silk and the body of the 
warp arranged two ends of cotton and 
one end of silk alternately. The fill- 
ing is cotton. This is a so-called 
silk umbrella cloth. 

A good cotton umbrella fabric with 
a twill weave is constructed as fol- 
lows: Ends per inch, 84; picks per 
inch, 112; width in reed, 28% inches; 
width of cloth, 27 inches; ends in 
warp, 2,312; reed, 2 ends per dent; 
warp, 60s combed American cotton; 
filling, 40s combed Egyptian cotton; 
weave ^T" twill. Plain selvedges. 
The cilo'th was woven on 12 harnesses, 
2 for selvedges anid 10 for ground. 

One of the most essential features of 
a good umbrella doth is a good sel- 
vedge, as upon such depenids not only 
the appearance of the cloth, but its 
utility. A cloth between two ribs of 
an umbrella would be worthless if it 
contained a broken selveidge. 
We will consider a plain weave um- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



221 



brella cloth, containing a good sel- 
vedge, where 2 picks work as one and 
2 picks are inserted in each shed. The 
ground is reeded 2 ends in eacih dent 
and the selvedges 4 ends per dent. 

The ooimstruction of this fabric is 96 
ends per inch of 60s warp yarn: 104 
picks per inch of 56s filling; American 
warp and Egyptian filling, combed 
stock. i 

An ordinary single box dobby loom 
is generally used when making these 
goods, the large number of ends per 
inch necessitating a greater number of 
harnesses than are usually run on cam 
looms. 

Oare has to be exercised, when weav- 
ing, to make the goods as near perfect 
as possible, because defects made in 
the loom have to be remedied after- 
wards, or the goods have to be sold as 
seconds. 

FINISHING. 

On account of the combinations of 
materials found in mixed umbrella 
fajbrics the finishing and dyeing proc- 
esses are of great importance and have 
to be done with care in order that 
each material will look the same 
when finished, and retain its color un- 
der severe usage. Especial care has to 
be taken with silk selvedge goods be- 
cause, if the selvedges are damaged, 
the goods have to be sold for other 
purposes, with a consequenit loss in 
price. 

Cotton umbrella cloths are singed or 
sheared, crabbed and steamed. If tliey 
contain silk selvedges, the latter are 
moistened slightly just before they 
reach the singei plates or flames. 

When the goods are required to be 
sheared, they are first thoroughly 
burled, all knots and other uneven im- 
perfections being removed so that the 
cloth will present an even surface,free 
from holes, after shearing. When 
steaming and drying the goods, it is 
neicessary to have them started and 
kept straight, that the warp -yarns 
may be straight and the width uniform 
throughout the piece. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The goods considered in this article 
are made in the same kind of mill and 
from the same grade of yarns as on- 
dule fabrics, which were dealt with 
in the previous artlicle. The card- 
ing and spinning data of the one 
will therefore apply equally well to 
the other, and need not be repeated 
here. 



100 gallons; 8 pounds immedial black 
N N; 10 pounds sodium sulphide; 3 
pounds soda ash; 25 pounds common 
salt; run the pieces through for one 
hour, take off to a washing machine, 
and give a good rinsing with water; 
aftertreat with 3 per cent chrome; 3 
per cent acetic aoid for 30 minutes at 
180 degrees F.; soap with 10 pounds 
soap; 2 pounds olive oil; 4 pounds sal 
soda; 50 gallons water at 180 degrees 
F., and rinse. Boil the soap, olive 
oil and sal soda together for one hour 
before using. For subsequent lots 2 
per cent soda ash, 7 per cent immedial 
black N N, 8 per cent sodium sul- 
phide, 6 per cent common salt will be 
suflaoient for the dyeing process. 

A SULPHUR BLACK 
is the fastest to- light, washing and 
general wear. Another black can be 
dyed with sulphur black topped with 
logwood: Six per cent immedial 
black N G; 10 per cent sulphide soda; 
2 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt; 
rinse well, and aftertreat with 2 per 
cent chrome; rinse and dye with 5 per 
cent extract logwood; rinse and soap 
at 150 degrees F.; % ounce soap to 1 
gallon wiater. 

And again a good black can be dyed 
with a one-dip black fixed with 
chrome which is very fast to light and 
washing, but not so- fast as sulphur 

A ONE-DIP BLACK. 

Ten per cent diamine fast black Fj 
2 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's salt; dye at the boil for one 
hour; rinse and aftertreat with 2 peir 
cent chrome; 2 per cent sulphate cop- 
per at 175 degrees F.; 3 per cent acetic 
acid; rinse well and soap with 
weak soap solution at 150 degrees F. 



HUCKABACK TOWELS, 



Dyeing Particulars. 
FAST BLACK. 
Dyed on the jig machine. First bath, 



Huckaback, or huck, is a name given 
to a certain type of weave, which is 
extensively utilized in the manufac- 
ture of towels, beiing excellently 
adapted for that purpose. 

Two of the principal features de- 
sired in a towel are, first, strength; 
second, a readiness tO' absorb moiisture. 

An examination of huckaback. Figs. 
1 and 2, will show that it is com- 
posed for the greater part of plain 
weave; this gives strength to the fab- 
ric. 

The moisture-'aibsoiribing qualities of 
a buck towel are aided by the long 
floats of yarn which appear regularly. 



228 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



.a,s on ends and picks 2, 4, 7 anid 9 of 
-Fig 2, as well as in the light twist or 
small number of turns per inch put in 
the yarns. The softer twisted the 
yarns, the better they are adapted for 
-toweling. 

The selvedge ends, which are re- 
quired to bear the greatest amount of 
friction of any of the yarns in the 
loom, are usually of 2-ply yarns, 
whereas the yarns in the body of the 
cloth are single, twisted not any hard- 
er than is necessary to enatole them 
to weave well. 

Hucbaback toweling is sold tO' the 
consumers in various ways, lay piece, 



nDBQiBGHnBn 
naDDDaDBDB 
BSaHDEQHaBD 

aaaaDiaaiiDB 

BDBDIinDDnC 
DZtaBDBGBDB 



Fig:. 1. 



CSaBDBDBDBD 
fiCSniffQBDKa HDBDBDBGBD 

DDaacBDKDai □ananBaBDB 

BDaDBQBDBa □aDGDBDBDB 

aCDDDHaQDa BDBCiBDliDBn 

■GHOIODBaBD BDBDBaBGBa 

□BDBDBiaBDB DBQBDBDBn! 
BDHDSaDDQa 

DBQwaBsaaiDB 
BaaaDHDDDDa 

DEaEGHL_BDB 



OBnBDBaBrB 

BDBnBnuDDU 
BDBDBDDDDD 
DBaBDBDBDB 
DBCBDBDBafl 

Fig. 3. 



Fig. 2. 

HGBDflDflOBD 
UDaaDBDBDB 
DnnDQBGBDB 
BGBGBGBGBG 
UBGBGBaBaB 
BGBnBnQDGa 
B BGBGDGan 
GBGBGBGaGB 

Fig. 4. 

yard and towel. The cloth sold by the 
piece or yard is generally white. 
Completed towels, w'hich are usually 
hemmeid, hemstitched, or fringed, vary 
in size from ahout 17 hy 32, to 25 by 45 
inches for general use. A favorite 
size for barbers' use is 14 by 26 ihches. 
These are all white, or are white in 
the body of the towel and colored on 
the borders, usiually wiith light red or 
blue. 

Towel borders usually consist of al- 
ternate stripes of coloired and white 
filling, varying relatively in size as de- 
sired, and of weaves other than those 
of the huckaback type. 

An analysis of a huckaback towel 
shows the following construction da- 
ta: Ends per inch, 50; picks peir inch, 
44; width of cloth, 17^/^ inches; warp 
yarn, 14s; filling yarn, 10s; ends in 
warp, 854 of 14s for the body of the 
cloth, 40, i. e., 20 on each side, of 2-28s 
for selvedges; 23 reed, 2 ends of 14s 
per dent; selvedges, each 20 ends, 
drawn as 10 ini 5 dents; the weave is 
shown in Fig. 3. The dinawing-in 
draft for reproduction on a dohbyloom 
is straight, with Fig. 1 as a chain 
draft. Weave Fig. 3 differs from the 
chain draft Fig. 1 in having two picks 
in a sihed. 

To enable a greater length of cloth 
to be woven in a short time, in fact, in 
one-half the nminimg time ordinarily 
required, two strands of filling are 



wound together as one on a bobbin and 
run off together in the loom. In reality,, 
although the cloth contains 44 picks 
per inch, the shuttle traverses the 
loom lay only 22 times to weave one 
inch of cloth. 

Another method of inserting two 
picks in a shed at once is by the use 
of a shuttle containing two bobbins of 
filling. O'bjections to this method are 
that it is necessary to use a shuttle 
of a greater length than can be run 
on an ordinary loom, and ecxtra waste 
is made if the filling from both bob- 
bins does no't end at the same time. 

Huckaback towels are usually made 
of linen, cotton, or a combiniation of 
linen and cotton. A cloth under con- 
sideratiO'n of the latter type, of a good 
quality, is 18 inches wide and contains 
58 ends and 37 picks per inch finished. 
The yams in both warp and filling, 
with the exception of the selvedge 
ends, are single. There are 8 ends of 
2-ply yarn for each selvedge. 

Fig. 4 is the W'eave used for this 
cloth ; 12 harnesses are required, 10 for 
ground and 2 for selvedges. 
LOOM REQUIRED. 

For plain white huckaback toweling 
an ordinary dotthy loom is used, one 
warp beam anid one shuttle only being 
required. Coarse cloth is usually wov- 
en on 4 harnesses, with a cross draw. 

When colored bordersi are required 
a doihby box loom containing a re- 
peater or multiplier motion is the best 
to use. A fringe motion is added to 
this when both borders and fringe are 
required. This motion automatically 
pulls the cloth forward several inches 
between each two' towels, the distance 
being regulated as desired. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Huckaback towels are made up of 
various counts of yarns which differ 
according to the mills in which they 
are made, and also several grades may 
be made in a single mill, but the di- 
vision of mills that they are made in 
is the second. The fabric under de- 
scription is made up of 14s warp yarn 
and 10s filling; the selvedge yarns are 
2-28S. 

THESE YARNS 
are all made up of American cotton, 
the warp and filling yarns being made 
from a 1%-inch staple and the sel- 
vedge yarn of 1 5-16-staple cotton. 
The cotton for these mixings is mixed 
by hand, large mixings being made. 
They are put through an opener and 
three processes of picking. Only 
those openers that have the best 
means of cleaning the pin beater 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



229 



should be used, as there are several 
on the market which do not clean the 
pins properly. Especially is this the 
case when running sliver waste, the 
waste becoming wound around the 
beater, which will be seen to be a 
great detriment. 

THE BEATERS 

of all three of the pickers are general- 
ly of the two-bladed rigid type and the 
particulars given below will be ap- 
plied to them. The speed of the 
breaker picker beater for this stock is 
1,550 revolutions per minute and the 
total weight of the lap at the front is * 
40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap. These 
laps are doubled four into one at the 
Intermediate picker and pass to the 
beater, the speed of which is 1,450 rev- 
olutions per minute. The total weight 
of the lap at the front of this machine 
is oTYz pounds or a 10-ounce lap. From 
the intermediate picker the laps are 
put up at the finisher picker and dou- 
bled four into one. Tne speed of this 
beater is 1,400 revolutions per minute. 
The total weight of the laps at the 
front of this picker is 39 pounds or a 
141^-ounce lap. The laps are allowed 
a variation of one-half a pound either 
side of the standard weight. When 
more than this, they are put up at the 
back and run through the picker 
again. 

WATCH THE EVENER 

motion to see that it is working prop- 
erly. The cotton at the finisher pick- 
er receives 42 blows or beats per inch 
fed. This cotton is generally a very 
dirty cotton and care should be taken 
to get all the dirt out possible, so that 
the cards will not have to do picker 
work. The laps from the picker are 
put up at the card, the draft of which 
is generally not more than 95. The 
speed of the licker-in is generally 300 
revolutions per minute and the top 
flats make one complete revolution 
every 50 minutes. The settings of the 
card should be the same as those giv- 
en in the article on "Indigo Prints." 

THE STRIPPING 
should be done three times a day and 
cards, especially the fronts, should be 
kept clean. The cards should be 
ground at least once a month, when 
the grinding rolls should be allowed 
to stay on half a day. Always grind 
lightly and it is a good plan to have 
traverse grinding rolls send the grind- 
ing disk across the surface of the wire 
fillet as quickly as possible and not in 
the slow manner in which it is gener- 
ally done. Look out for the emery on 



the grinding disk to see that it does 
not become greasy. The emery 
should be cleaned frequently with 
some fluid that will remove the 
grease. The 

WEIGHT OF THE SLIVER 
should be 65 grains per yard and the 
production for a week of 60 hours 750 
pounds. As these yarns are carded 
they are put up at the drawing frame 
and run through three processes, the 
doublings being 6 into 1 at each proc- 
ess. The drawing frames may be 
equipped with metallic or leather top 
rolls. If the latter are used, keep the 
flutes clean; and if the former, see that 
the top rolls are always well covered 
and varnished. No matter which top 
rolls are used, it is important to see 
that the stop motions are all in per- 
fect working order, especially those 
operating the spoons, for it is here a 
great deal of trouble is caused by 
single and double if they are out of 
order. The speed of 

THE FRONT ROLL 
should be about 350 revolutions per 
minute. The weight of the sliver at 
the front of the finisher should be 75 
grains. This sliver is put up at the 
slubber and made into .60 hank rov- 
ing. From the slubber it is put 
through one process of fly frames for 
the warp and filling yarns and two 
processes for the selvedge yarn. The 
hank roving being 2.25 for warp and 
filling and 1.50 for selvedge at the 
second intermediate, the hank roving 
for the latter yarn is 5.50. At these 
frames be sure that the top rolls are 
in good condition and that the traverse 
motion is working properly. The top 
rolls should be cleaned frequently, at 
least twice a week, and new rolls put 
in at regular intervals, these being 
determined by various conditions 
which are different in every mill. 
Never run loose, fluted, bruised or 
uneven top rolls. Watch to see that 
all 

THE TENDERS 
mark their roving correctly and that 
they do not let single and double go. 
Do not allow pieces to collect, but use 
them up as fast as possible. Keep 
floor of card room clean at all times, 
as nothing creates so poor an impres- 
sion on a visitor as an untidy card 
room floor. From the card room the 
roving is taken to the ring spinning 
room and made into 14s warp on a 
frame having a gauge of three inches, 
diameter of ring, 2% inches, length of 
traverse, 7 inches, twist per inch, 17.77, 
and spindle speed of 9,000 revolutions 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



per minute. The 10s filling yarn is 
made on a frame having a 2%-inch 
gauge, 1%-inch diameter ring, 7- 
inch traverse, 10.28 twist per inch and 
spindle speed of 6,400 revolutions per 
minute. The selvedge yarn is spun on 
a frame having 2%-inch gauge, 1%- 
inch diameter ring, 6% -inch trav- 
erse, 25.13 twist per inch and spindle 
speed of 9,700 revolutions per minute. 
The warp yarn is put through a spool- 
er and warper and from here pu' 
through a slasher. The selvedge ii 
put through a spooler and then twisted, 
spooled again, and run on to a se"- 
vedge beam alEter being put through n 
slasher. 



A four and four, or five and five 
mo'Ck leno is based on the samie prin- 
ciple as the three and three described 
above; in the four and four the enids 
are reeded four i i one dent, while in 



IMITATION GADZE-Mock Lenc, 



These weaves are very extensively 
used in cotton manufacture. 

The imitajtio'n of leno' or gauze fab- 
rics can be made extremely close; in 
some cases the deception has even im- 
posed on experienced buyers. 
^ These weaves are commonly used 

aaaanaaaDBDa 

■BBQDDaaBDOa 
UBDBDBaaDBDB 

BDBaaaaaaaan 
aaaBBBDnDBBB 
m^mamamamoma 
DaaaDBDBDBua 
aaaaDaaaaaaa 
DaaaaaDaDaaa 
aaaaanaaaDaa 
DDaaaBoaaaaa 
BQaaaGaaaDBD 
Fig-. 1. 

for such fabrics as dress goods, cur- 
taJins, ladies' aprons, men's shirts, 
canvas cloth, etc. These fabrics are 
characterized by three or more warp 
threads and three or more filling picks 
interlaoing with each other very 
loosely, while the following warp and 
filling threads form a complete break 
and so can readily be kept apart for 
small spaces. 

In the warp these breakS' are aug- 
mented by the reed by leaving one, 
■two, three or more dents empty (if, 
for example, wi© use a plain six -harness 
imitation gauze weave, as shown in 
Pig. 1, ends one, two and three would 
be drawn in one dent, w'hile enids four, 
five and six would fill another dent) 
and by leaving one, two or more dente 
empty between the first groups of three 
ends and the second group of three 
ends. The number of dents tO' be left 
empty depends upon the space desired 
between each group of ends. 

Diagnam Fig. 2 shows the character 
of fabric woven with weave shown in 
Fig. 1. 




Fig. 



the five and five the ends are reeded 
five in one deat. 

The four and four and the five and 
five end patterns produce a slightly 
more open effect than the three and 
three end pattern. 

The former is also suitable for a fin- 
er make of cloth, as the open effect 
can be made with a larger number of 
ends per inch. 

In the five and five end or ten-har- 
ness weave (see Fig. 3) the second, 
fourth, seventh and ninth ends serve 
to pull the picks together in fives and 
make a decided opening in the cloth 
between the fifth and sixth picks; in 
the pattern the same thing takes place 
with the ends — they are pulled togeth- 
er in fives by the second, fourth and 
seventh and ninth picks, and if two 

aanaaBDBDB 
aaaaaaaaaQ 
DaaaDBDaDB 

BBBBBDaDag 
DBDBDBaBDB 
BDBDBDBDBD 

nnnaoBBBBB 

BnBDBDBDBa 

DanaaBBBBB 

BGa^naBDBD 

Fig. 3, 

dents be skipped between each group 
of five ends it wiill produce the eiTect 
in fabric shown in Fig. 4. In addition 
to plain gauze fabrics, as shown in Fig- 
2, these weaves are used in connec- 
tion with plain woven fabrics in the 
fbirm of a pattern (see Fig. 4) and also 
in the form of checks. The fabric 
shown in Fig. 4 shows a series of ends 
working gauze or mock leno through- 
out the entire pattern, forming a stripe 
through the entire length of the fab- 
ric. In the check effects these ends 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



251 



are made to weave plalia or otTierwiaie 
as may be desired. Fig. 5 illustrates 
a mock leno three and ttiiree check 
pattern, showing 18 ends working 
gauze for IS picks and the next 18 ends 
work plain for 18 picks, these two se- 
ries of ends aliternating into a plain 
weave at the end of the 18 picks. These 
check pattern fabrics in nearly all in- 



width of fabric finished, 36 inches; 
ends per inch finished, 68; reed, 
1,200; take-up of warp (ground 
warp) during weaving, 10 per 
cenit; take-up of leno warp during 
weaving, 20 per cent. 




Fig. 4. 



stances are given a wet finisTi. By 
reason of the fact that the warp is 
reeded three in one dent, skipping one, 
two or more dents between each three 
ends will cause the plain woven part 
of the fabric to show more or less 
streaky; that is, it will show each of 
the three ends lying close together 
instead of being evenly distributed 
across the fabric. When subjected to 
the wet finish these ends will take 
their proper places. When making a 
gauze stripe fabric as shown in Fig. 4, 
the ends operating the gauze weave 
are on a separate beam because of the 
difference of take-up in warp during 
weaving. 

Another method of producing a 
mock leno is to have two ends appear 
as if they were twisted around sever- 
al other ends, that is, not resting par- 
allel to one another. This is readily 
produced by allowing the two ends to 
come together for two picks,then grad- 
ually spreading them for six or eight 
picks, then allowing them to graduaJly 
come together again for two picks. 
These two ends in the pattern are of 
coarser counts than the body of warp, 
usually a three-ply thread, and are on 
a separate beam from the bO'dy of the 
warp. 

Fig. 6 shows design and reeding 
plan for a fabric of the above descrip- 
tion. 

ANALYSIS. 

Width of warp in reed, 37 V2 inches; 







DRESSING. 






12 


ends 


white. 








8 ends 


blue. 








6 


ends white. 








4 


ends 


blue. 








2 


ends 


white. 








2 


ends 


blue. 








10 ends 


white. 








8 


ends 


blue. 








16 


ends 


white. 








1 


end 


dark blue 


mercer 


zed 


cotton 


8 


ends 


white. 








1 


end 


dark blue 


mercer 


zed 


cotton 


16 


ends 


white. 








8 


ends 


blue. 








10 


ends 


white. 








2 


ends 


blue. 








2 


ends 


white. 








4 


ends 


blue. 








6 


ends 


white. 








8 


ends 


blue. 









134 ends in pattern. 

Ends in pattern: 88 ends white 
1-lOs; 44 ends blue l-40s; 2 ends dark 
l)lue 3-30s; total, 134 ends. 

Filling, 70 picks per inch l-50s 
bleached ©otton. 

LOOMS REQUIRED. 

These fabrics are mostly woven with, 
but one ooior filling; conisequently any 
ordinary harness loom would answer 
for weaving these fabrics. Competition 
and economy are factors that have 
caused the discarding of the old roller 
loom, using instead the Crompton and 

fflaBDBjnfflDSDaDfflnffiDSDBaBDBaBaBnBnBDBDBn 

DffiDaDfflDfinfflDtaDianfflDffinauBBBGDDBBBDOnBBB 
fflDSafflDffln*Clfflu!inaiDi£jDBDBU«uBGBDBDBnBDBn 
afflDfflDiSDfflD>euffla(fiUtbntijDBOBUBGBaBnBaBOBDB 
SaaDffiafflDSaeDEDfflDfflUBuBurjDBBBaLjDBBBljQn 

nffla!aD!3a'aDaa=aafflGaDfflnBaBuBaBDBDBnBDBDB 
fflDsasaiSDsaanfflaaaffinBDBDaDBDBDBaBDBnBa 

De!nffln.BntaGaUtBUaDfflDfflDnUBBBGDnBBBDDDBBB 

fflQtaasDfflGHafflafflGBafflaBUBnBuBGBuBGaGBGBa 

GfflGSGiSGSjQSaanfflGfflafflLBijBaBGBGBuBGBDIiLB 
ffl BDfflGSafflDfflaaGaGEaCBBaiGuDBBBGaGBBBGCG 
nfflGfflafflGffiGSjGfflaHGfflLii-GiiaBGBaBGBGBaBaBGB 
SaaGaGfflGfBGaaaGKHGtaQilGBGBGBDBaB^BaBGaG 

naaaGaafflGfflGaaaaa^ujaDGBBBaDDBBBGGGBBi* 
aaaaaGaGaGaGaafflGaGBGBGB^BDBDBDB dgbg 
nsasDfflaBafflaaGaafflGaGHaBGBGBOBaBGBaBGB 

fflQfflGgnaGaGfflGfflaaafflaBBBGGGBBBGGGBBBCGa 

GaafflaaGaGaGanaaanaQBGBDBaBDBGBGBDBaB 
BaHGBJ.BaBGBaBaBaBaaaaGBGfflt]BaaaaDBQ»a 

DQGBUBGGaBBBaGnBBBGBraGfflaBGBGfflaaGfflna 
BGBGBGBGBaBGBGBnBaBDfflnPPGaGaDfflnfflGBDag 
GB '■GBGBDBGBGBGBDBgBiagBnggBgaGagBGB 

gbgbQbgbgbgbgbgi 
bgbgbgbgbgbgbhbc 

BaBGaGBriBaBaBQiGBaBaBDaaaafflaaaBDaDaD 
GBGBGBGBGBaBGBaBGBGaGBnaGaGaQagBgaga 
BBBGG ■BaGGaBBBnGGanfflGfflDBDBDanagaGan 
GBGB -BGBaBGBDBaBDBaaDaaaGacBaaGffgagffl 
BGBGBGKGBaBaBGB-'BGaGaaaGaaaDaaagaDeD 
aGGBBBaGDBBB-^anBBaaaQananfflafflgagfflDSGffl 

BDBGBGBGBGBaBaBGBDfflnanaafflGEGanffiDffiGag 

GBGB BGBGBr BaBaBaBDaafflnfflnfflDffinBDfflgBGpa 
BBBGaGBBBGGaBBBGaDaaanaDaGfflDaDBGagaD 

GBDBaBGBDBGBaBCBGBnaGaDfflafflafflDaaDfflDffiGB 

Fig. 5. 

Knowles dobby or Ingham patent 
harness motion loom. 

FINISHING. 
These fabrlios are sometimes given 
a dry finish, depending chiefly upon 
the weave and pattern. In some quali- 
ties in which only one color warp and 
filling is used, the fabric is bleached, 



232 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



hot pressed, then made up into rolls 
ready for shipment. When two or 
more colors are used, the fabric in 
most cases is boiled off, then subjected 
to a light sizing, pressed, and then 
made up into rolls. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns of which mock lenos are 
composed are made up in mills of the 
second division as given in a previous 
article. These yarns may be either 
combed or just carded, according to 
the grade of the fabric to be made. 
For the fabric under description in 
this article we will consider the fill- 
ing yarn to be combed and the warp 
yarn to be carded. The filling yarn is 
made from an American cotton of 1 5- 
16-inch staple, while the warp yarn is 
made out of cotton of 1%,-inch, the 
cotton used for both purposes 
being of a good grade. Both cottons 
are generally mixed by hand, being 
kept in separate bins, of course. The 
mixings should be as large as possible, 



aannfflBnBnnBnBfflDDDDSDfflDfflnsafflDffiDfflnfflDB 
nnaafflDBDHBDBnEBnDDnnfflnfflnfflnfflDfflnffinBDffln 
DanaQBDBaDBDBDCDnnfflUfflnffiDBnfflnffOfflnfflnffl 
nanDsaBaBBaBDSDDDDDffinEnfflnBBDBDfflDfflnEan 
nanaDBnBanBDBnDaanfflnfflafflDEBDfflDffiDfflnfflns 

DnnDSDBDBBOBDEBnDDnDEIQffiCEBDEnfflafflnenfflD 
nnDDfflBDBnnBDBfflDnnafflDfflnffiDEBDEEDfflDBnfflDffl 
■aBDfflnBaBBOBnffiDBnBDEBnfflnfflDfflDfflDffiDaDfflD 

□■nBfflDnnDnDnDfflBDBDfflnfflQfflnsnEBaffiDfflDEBQffl 
■□■DEanannnnnnEBDBDBDEHafflDfflnBUEHGEBDEanfflD 

OBDBaDnDnDDaDDBnBafflDBnfflDfflDEDffiDEHDfflDffl 

■DBn£SDDnnLinDDffln«n«affinfflnfflDfflnfflnBDffiDffln 
DBaBDDDDDDDDDnHaBnfflnfflOfflnfflDfflafflnfflaBnffl 
■DBnfflannDnnDDfflDBOBDEBDfflnfflDfflnEBDfflDeBDffln 
DBDBBDnnnnoDnfflBnBnfflnfflnsaffinfflnfflQBDfflaffl 

■DBaBCBaaBDHaBDBDaDBaBDBaBDfflGBOBDBir 



onDDnnnaa 

^ BBBBBBBBB 
• Skip one dent 



Fig-. 6. 



each batch being calculated to last av 
least a week. 

A GOOD PLAN 
to follow is to have a batch of the 
same stock always on hand drying out 
while one is being used. This insures 
a dry and fluffy cotton being mixed. 
At the mixing bins the good sliver 
waste from all machines up to the 
slubber is mixed in. This waste should 
be spread throughout the entire mix- 
ing and not, as is sometimes done, 
piled up in one place and fed to the, 
opener all at once. The mixing is put 
through an opener and three processes 
of picking. Follow the rules that have 
been given in previous articles in 
connection with the opener. At the 
breaker picker the beater used is gen- 
erally of a two-bladed, so-called rigid 
type and for both stocks makes 1,500 
revolutions per minute. See that the 
beater is properly set to the feed rolls 
and that the grid and grate bars are 
properly spaced so that they will al- 



low all foreign matter to drop through. 
Look out for all 

THE DRAFTS 
to see that they are properly directea 
to the best advantage to make a good, 
clean, even lap that does not split. 
The weight of the lap at the front of 
the breaker picker is 40 pounds. At 
the intermediate picker the speed of 
the beater (two bladed) is 1,450 revo- 
lutions per m>inute, and the total 
weight of the lap is 37 pounds or a 12- 
ounce lap for the 1 5-16-inch stock and 
a 10-ounce lap for the 1%-inch stock. 
These laps are doubled four into one 
at the finisher picker. On this picker 
the speed of the beater is also 1,45(> 
revolutions per minute. The total 
weight of the lap at the front is 35 
pounds for the 1 5-lC-inch stock and 
39 pounds for the l^^-inch stock, or a 
13-ounce lap for the longer stock and a 
141/^-ounce lap for the shorter staple. 
The laps are put up at the card and 
the draft of the card for the warp 
yarn is not more than 95. The speed 
of the licker-in should be about 300 
revolutions per minute. The top flats 
make one complete revolution every 
50 minutes. The sliver weighs 65 
grains per yard and the production for 
a week of 60 hours is 750 pounds. For 
the filling yarn the draft of the card 
should not be less than 110. The top 
flats make one complete revolution 
every 35 minutes, the speed of the 
licker-in being 300 revolutions per min- 
ute. The weight of tne sliver is 5b 
grains per yard and the production 
550 pounds for a week of 60 hours. 
The counts of the wirefilletused for all 
parts would be similar for carding 
both staples of cotton or 110s for cyl- 
inder and 120s for doffer and top flats. 
Strip three times a day and grind at 
least once a month. Always gauge the 
setting points after grinding and set 
to high places. Use 

THE SETTINGS 
given in a previous article on "Bed- 
spreads." The sliver for the 
warp yarn is put through three 
processes of drawings, the doub- 
lings being 6 into 1, the speed of 
the front roll being 350 revolutions per 
minute at each process. A good weight 
for the sliver at the different process- 
es is as follows: 77 grains at front of 
breaker, 76 grains at front of middle 
and 70 grains at front of finisher. 
Either metallic or leather covered top 
rolls may be used on this stock. Ei- 
ther one used will give good results it 
properly cared for. If leather-covered 
rolls are used, use one of the recipes 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



given in a previous article and don't 
use rolls that are not in perfect con- 
dition. If the damage is in the cover- 
ing, send it to be recovered and always 
examine the returned rolls to see that 
they are level and have the right grade 
of sliver covering. Look out for all 
the knoick-off moti'ons tO' see that 
they are in perfect working order; 
for remember, that one of the two du- 
ties of a drawing frame is to even the 
sliver, and if the knock-off motions do 
not work they will allow single to go 
through, which is a serious fault that 
is not corrected while passing throug'h 
the slubber where the end is put 
through single. The drawing sliver is 
put through the slubber and drawn 
into .60 hank roving. From here it 
passes through two processes of 

FLY FRAMES, 
the hank roving at the firsit in- 
termediate being 2 for the 30s, and 21/^ 
for the 40s yarn; at the second inter- 
mediate the hank roviing is 6 for the 
30s and 8.50 for the 40s yarn. Theisie 
rovings are then spun on, a ring frame 
inito 30iS and 40s yarn. For 30s yarn 
the frame, to get best results, should 
be fitted as follows: Gauge of frame, 
2% inches; diameter of spindle, 1% 
inches; length of traverse, 6% inches; 
twist per inch, 26.02,an!d spimdle speed, 
9,800 revolutions per minute. For 40s 
yam use a 2%-inch gauged frame, a 
1%-inch diameter ring; 6%-inch trav- 
erse, 28. 4G twist per inch and spindle 
speed of 10,000 revolutions per minute. 
The yarns are spooled and twisited, 3 
ends of 30s being twisted itogether, and 
then 2 ends of the 3-30s twisted with 
1 end of the 40s yarn. The yarns are 
then warped and slashed. 

The card sliver for the filling yarn 
is generally put through a sliver lap, 
ribbon lap and then a comber. At the 
sliver lap the doublings are 14 into 1, 
the weight of a yard of lap' bieling 280 
grains per yard. These are doubled at 
the ribbon lap machine 6 into 1. The 
weight of the laps at the front of this 
machine is 265 grains per yard. These 
laps are' put up at the comber and 
doubled according to the number of 
heads on the --comber, either six or 
eight into 1. The particulars given for 
the sliver and ribbon lap machines are 
for an 8%-inch lap. 

AT THE COMBER 
a percentage of 16 per cent should be 
taken out of the lap being fed. The 
settings should be the same as given 
in a previous article and this is true 
of the trimmings. As the combers are 
not equipped with stop-motions, single 
and double should be looked for, and 



it is a ge-ieral rule, if two or mure 
ends break down on the table, to break 
the sliver entering the can and to re- 
move all single from can before piec- 
ing up end again. This rule should be 
rigidly enforced so as to prevent.as far 
as possible, single going to the draw- 
ing frame. Keep the leather detach- 
ing rolls in perfect condition as to cov- 
ering and varnish. It is a good plan 
to varnish all detaching rolls at least 
once a week. Varnish leather covered 
rolls in draw box as often as neces- 
sary. Take percentages of at least six 
combers a day to see just what they 
are doing. The comber sliver is put 
through two processes of drawing. I'he 
speed of the front roll at each process 
is 350 revolutions per minute. A good 
weight for the sliver is 68 grains per 
yard at the breaker and 75 grains per 
yard at the finisher. The sliver is then 
put through the slubber and made in- 
to .50 hank roving. From here it is 
put through three processes of fly 
frames, the hank roving aJt each proc- 
ess being as follows: First intermedi- 
ate 1; second intermediate 3, and fine 
12 hank. This roving may be either 
mule or ring spun. If the latter, use a 
frame with the following particulars: 
Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter 
of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 
5% inches; twist per inch, 26.52, and 
speed of spindle, 8,200 revolutions per 
minute. The yarn is then taken and 
conditioned and is ready for weaving. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
AMBER. 

One-half per cent diamine catechine 
G; 15 per cent Glauber's salt: 1 per 
cent sal soda; aftertreat with V2 per 
cent bichromate of potash; % per 
cent sulphate of copper. 

SKY BLUE. 
One-half per cent diamine sky blue 
F F; 15 per cent Glauber's salt; 1 per 
cent sal soda; aftertreat with % per 
cent sulphate of copper. 

LIGHT PEA GREEN. 
Six ounces diamine sky blue F F; 8 
ounces diamine fast yellow F F; 10 
pounds Glauber's; 1 pound sal soda; 
aftertreat with 1 per cent sulphate of 
coipper. 

PINK. 
One-half per cent erika pink G; 10 
per cent Glauber's salt; 1 per cent sal 
soda. 

LIGHT SLATE. 
Four ounces benzo fast black; 1-16 
ounce ehrysopheni"e; 5 pounds Glau- 
ber's s^alt; y^ pound sal soda. 



2;;4 



A COTTOxX FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



PEARL. 

Four ounoes napihthamine black N; 
•5 poimds Glauber's; 1 pound sal soda; 
aftertreat witli Vz pound bichrome. 
NAVY. 

Four per cent naphitbamine blue 2 
B; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent 
sal sodia; aftertreat witli 1 per cent bi- 
chrome; 1 per cent sulphate copper. 
NAVY BLUE. 

Two per cent diaminogene blue B 
B; 2 per cenjt diaminogene blue N A; 
25 per cent Glauber's salt; 3 per cent 
sal soda. 

Diazotize: Two and ome-half per cent 
nitrite soda; 5 per cent sulphuric acid; 
turn for 15 minutes and rinse. 

Develop: Dissolve liVz pounds beta 
naphthol ; 18 pounds sodia lye at 77 de- 
grees Tw.; 20 gallons boiling water; 
for 100 pounds yarn add 1% gallons of 
developing solution, turn for 15 min- 
utes, rinse and give a good soaping. 
RED. 

Six per cent primuline; 20 per cent 
Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda; diazo- 
tize and develop as the navy blue. 
LIGHT YELLOW. 

Four ounces chromine G; 5 pounds 
salt; 1 pound sal soda. 
GREEN. 

Three per cent diamine green G; 
3 per cent diamine fast yellow A; af- 
tertreat with 3 per cent bichrome. 
BLACK. 

Fifteen per cent Immedial black N 
N; 1.5 per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per 
cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's 
salt. 



FILLING REVERSIBLES. 

Filling reversibles is a term given to 
a class of cotton fabrics used exten- 
sively in the manufacture of dressing 
sacques, kimonos, bath robes, etc. In 
cotton warp amd shoddy or woolen 
filling goods the same principle of con- 
struction is adopted for goods for 
honse blankets, rugs, etc. 

THE RESULT DESIRED 
is to have a clloth containing two col- 
ors, each color being in solid blocks or 
effects, and tO' have onie side the re- 
verse of the other. In low-price goods 
this is obtained by a combination of 
weiave, color and finishing. 

Fig. 1 illustrates a cloth of this type 
showing solid blocks of brown and 



white runningwarp way. Where brown 
appears on the face, white appears op- 
posite on the back. In this particular 
sample the white ibar across the cloth 
shows white on both sides. Brown 
shows opposite white at all other 
places. 

Fig. 2 illustrates the weave for cloth 
Fig. 1, being on 80 ends and 96 picks. 
Sections A correspond to brown sec- 
tions on the face of the cloth, and sec- 
tions B, indicated on picks marked 
White, to the white sections. The 
weave is really complete on eight 
picks, the coloring indicating the ex- 
tent of the pattern. 

In Fig. 2 the dotsi indicate the face 
weave, i. e., at these places the filling 




Fig. 1. 

which is always considerably coarser 
than the warp, allmost covers the lat- 
ter. On account of the large number 
of picks as compared to warp.the rela- 
tive sizes of the yarnis and the pecul- 
iarity of the weave, the filling on the 
picks indicated by the dots comes to- 
gether, covering the picks indicated 
by the crosises. The picks marked In 
crosses co^me together on the under 
side of the cloth. 

In the section 'bracketed and indi- 
cated as containing 80 picks, the filling 
is picked two brown and two white al- 
ternately, making 40 brown picks on 
the face and 40 wihite picks on the 
back in sections A and the reverse col- 
ors in sections B. The fabric is really 
double in the filling and single in the 
warp. 

Sections A form a left-hand twill on 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



233 



the face and a right-hand twill on the 
back; sections B rice versa. 

The construction of the fabric under 
<x>nsideratio'n is 42 ends and 62 (31 
face and 31 back) picks per inch finish- 
ed. The warp is 15s and the filling 
714s. The latter contains very little 
twisit. The warp is all white. The 
filling is two brown and twoi white for 



■^-:S^ 



m 



tm 






80 picks, 16 white; total, 96 picks per 
pattern. The width is 27 inches fin- 
ished. The harness draft requires 
eight harneisises, four for sections A 
and four for sections B, in addition to 
two for selvedges. Reed 2 or 4 ends 
per dent. The chain draft is shown 
in Fig. 3. The box chain would be re- 
quired to be built for 96 picks, and a 
loom with a repeater or multiplier 
motion would be the best to use. 



LOOM REQUIRED. 

The simpler types of tilling reversi- 
bles can be woven readily on any ordi- 
nary dobiby loom arranged with a two 
by one box motion. As the warp is 
hidden entirely after finishing, one 
warp only is required. On account of 
the coarseness of the filling,Iarge shut- 
tles are necesisary. For rugs a jac- 
quard head is usually used. 
FINISHING. 

Practically all the finishing these 
goods receive is in raising the fibre to 
form a nap. This nap entirely oblit- 
erates the Wieave effect. The soft- 
twisted filling is readily raised by the 
card wire of the cotton raising ma- 
chines. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The mills that make the yarns of 
which filling reversibles are made, 
will be found in the first and sec- 
ond division of mills as given in a pre- 
vious article. The filling yarn is slack 
twisted and for the fabric to be de- 
scribed is a number 7% yarn. This is 
made from various stocks; some- 
times only straight cotton is used, 
but more generally it is composed of a 



□■nnaHDBH 
■aBDDDHBaa 
aBaBnaoaaa 
BaBBBaaaDD 

aBDBnDBBDB 
BaaDBDBDBB 

naaBBBDDaB 

BaBDBBDDBa 

Fig. 3. 



certain percentage of waste, sometimes 
as high as 60 per cent waste being 
used. 

THE WASTE 
used also differs, some using card 
waste, some comber and some both. 
It is generally safe to say if waste is 
used that it will be card waste, for the 
mills making this class of goods are 
not generally equipped with combers. 
The stock with which the waste is 
mixed is of from % to 1 inch staple, 
according to the quality of the fabric 
required.. A fine average staple to take 
is one of %-inch length. The mixing 
would be done by hand and it is al- 
most needless to state that large mix- 
ings should always be made for va- 
rious reasons that have been given 
previously. The stock of which the 
warp yarn is made is % to 1 inch in 
length, generally the former length be- 
ing used. While the stock for this 
yarn is sometimes mixed with waste, 

THE PERCENTAGE 
of waste does not run as high as that 
used for the filling stock. The stock 



23ti 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



is put through three processes of pick- 
ing, before which it passes through an 
opener. Keep the hopper of this open- 
er well filled with cotton so that the 
fitting or spiked apron will always 
have a full load. The beaters generally- 
used for the pickers for this class of 
goods are of the two-bladed rigid type 
and the speed of that in the breaker 
picker should be about 1,550 revolu- 
tions per minute. The weight of the 
lap at the front should be 40 pounds 
or a 16-ounce lap. These laps are 
doubled four into one at the interme- 
diate picker. The speed of this beat- 
er for both warp and filling yarns is 
1,500 revolutions per minute. The 

WEIGHT OF THE LAP 
at the front of this picker is 38 pounds 
or a 14-ounce lap. These laps are 
doubled at the back of the finisher 
picker four into one. The speed of 
this beater is 1,500 revolutions per 
minute, which gives the cotton passing 
through about 43 beats per inch. The 
total weight of the lap at the front of 
this machine is 39 pounds or a 14%- 
ounce lap. A variation of one-half 
pound either side of standard weight 
for lap is allowed. Those having 
more of a variation than this are put 
at the back of the finisher picker and 
run over again, although care should 
be taken not to run two of these laps 
at the same time, for this would be 
more than apt to throw the weight of 
the lap being made out. Look out for 
the direction of the air currents and 
see that an 

EVEN AND UNIFORM LAP 
is being made at the front. Do 
not fool with the lap weight 
adjustments too much, for toio much 
is worse than not enough, for 
the former will keep the weight of 
the lap jumping ail around, whereas 
the latter is more apt to get the same 
weight of laps. These laps are put up 
at the card where the draft should not 
be more than 90. The settings of the 
card used should be the sa.me as those 
given in connection with the ar- 
ticle on indigo prints, except that 
of the feed plate to the licker- 
in. which should be set just a trifle 
farther, longer than the length of the 
staple. The flats and doffer should be 
covered with No. 34s wire and the cyl- 
inder No. 32s wire fillet. The speed of 
the licker should be 350 revolutions per 
minute, while the flats should make 
one complete revolution every 55 min- 
utes. The cards should be stripped at 
least 

THREE TIMES A DAY 
and an extra stripping would greatly 



improve the yarn, but is not generally 
done. The weight of the sliver is 65 
grains per yard and the production is 
975 to 1,050 pounds per week of 6^ 
hours. This sliver is next put through 
twO' processes of drawing where the 
doublings are 6 into 1. The speed of 
the front roll is 400 revolutions per 
minute for each stock, the draft of 
the breaker frame is 5.25, the weight 
of the sliver being 72 grains. The draft 
at the finisher is 5.60, the weight of 
the drawing- being 72 graiins per yard. 
For this! class of work either leather 
covered or metallic top rolls may be 
used. But the metallic top rollsare con- 
sidered by miany to have a great many 
advantages, one of the principal ones 
being that more production is turned 
out with the same speed of roll. No 
matter which top roll is used,, they 
should be waltcheid carefully to see 
that they are in perfect condition 
FOR MAKING GOOD WORK. 
It is also a good policy to watch the 
sitop-motlions, for it is these, if 
they are not in propei' working 
order, that cause single to be* made. 
The sliver for the filling yarn is made 
into .40 hank slubber roving, while 
that for the warp yarn is made into .50- 
hank roving. Thie filling yarn is put 
through one more process of fly framea 
and made into 1 hank roving, which is 
taken to the mule room and spun into- 
71/^s, having a 2.80 twist per inch. The 
slubber yarn for the warp yarn is put 
through two processes of fly frames, at 
the first being made imto 1 hank and at 
the second into 3% hank. This yarn 
is then taken to the ring spinning- 
room and spun into 15s on a frame 
having a 3-inch gauge; 2%-inch diam- 
eter rinig; 7-5n-ch traverse, 18 turns 
per twist and a spindle' speed of 9,200' 
revolutions per minute. This yarn is 
then spooled, warped and then put 
through a slasiher. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

HAVANNA BROWN. 
Three per cent immedial brown R R; 
3 per cent immedial cutch O; 6 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 30 per cent 
Glauber's salt; 3 per cent soda ash. 
NAVY BLUE. 
Eight per ce^nt pyrol navy blue; 8 
per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent 
soda ash; 25 per cent salt. 
BOTTLE GREEN. 
Ten per cent pyrol green B; 10 per 
cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda 
ash; 25 per cent salt. 
PEARL. 
One-half per cent immedial black 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 






N R T; 5 per cent salt; 1 per cent so- 
dium suilphide; 2 per cent soda ash; 10 
per cent salt. 

SKY BLUE. 

One per cent tetrazo brilliant blue 
6 B; 2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent 
Glauber's salt. 

RED. 

Five per cent primuline Y; 2 per 
cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glauber's. 

Diazotize: 2% per cent nitrite soda; 
5 per cent spirits salt. 

Develop: 2 per cent beta naphtliol; 2 
per cent soda ash. 

SLATE. 
One per cent immedial black N B; ^ 
per cent iramedial direct blue B; 20 
per cent salt; 2 per cent soda ash; 2 
per cent sulphide soda. 

ECRU. 
One-half iper cent immedial yellow 
D; Vz per cent immedial cutch G; 1 per 
cent sulpihide sodium; 1 per cent soda 
ash; 10 per cent salt. 

BROWN. 
Eight per cent katigen brown V; 2 
per cent katigeti yellow G G; 10 per 
cent soidium sulphide; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. 

HELIOTROPE. 
Eig'ht per cent thiogene violet B; 8 
per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. 

BLACK. 

Ten per cent immedial black N N; 
10 per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per 
cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt. 
PINK. 

One per cent erika pink; 3 per cent 
sal soda; 20 per cent salt. 



DHOOTIES. 



Dhootie cloths are a class of fabrics 
used very extensively in Zanzibar, Af- 
rica, Egypt and India, for scarfs, tur- 
bans, and girdle or body cloths. 

They vary in width from 18 inches 
to 50 inches, and in length from two 
to six yards. The cut lengths vary 
from 12 to 40 yards. 

They are distinguished by gaudy, 
highly colored borders, running 
lengthwise, and headings running 
across the piece between which both 
warp and filling yarns are of gray, 
white or other light coloi-. Both sides 
of the cloth are similar, the fabric be- 
ing reversible. The borders length- 



wise range from about one-half inch 
to four inches in width. 

THE REAL DHOOTIE 
is a native eastern hand-woven fabric, 
in which the colored filling interlaces 
only with the border warp yarns. To 
weave such a fabric the services of 
three persons are required, one to 
take care of the centre and one for 
each of the borders. 

It is practically the only article of 
apparel used by many of the poorer 
classes in the eastern countries. 

Referring to these goods an Indian 
textile journal states that the follow- 
ing are standard sizes: 22 inches to 
23 inches wide, 2 yards long; 24 inches 
tOi 25 inches wide, 2% yards long; 26 
inches to 28 inches wide, 3 yards long; 
29 inches to 32 inches wide, 3% yards 
long; 29 iniches and upwards wide, 4 
tO' 5 yards long. 

THE YARNS 
employed vary from 30s to 40s in the 
warp, and from 36s to 60s in the filling. 

A great many of the goods are made 
with 34s warp and 40s filling in the 
centre of the goods, the borders being 
aJbout 2-50S and 2-60s. 

Although not usually the case, they 
are sometimes made with several col- 
ored stripes in the width of the piece, 
in addition to. tlhose forming the bor- 
ders. 

The cross borders, or headings, are 
sometimes very elaborate, varying in 
length up to about 20 inches. In the 
longer types these headings are in- 
serted every few inches, whereas 
in the shorter types they are woven 
only at the beginning and end of 
each scarf. The 

BORDERS AND HEADINGS 
are intended to be made so that the 
colors of which they are composed 
will appear as prominent or solid as 
possible. To accomplish this on the 
side borders the method usually 
adopted is to arrange the colors in the 
warp yarns, and crowd them in the 
reed so that they will cover the filling 
as nearly .as possible. In this class of 
dhooties the filling is of the same color 
as the warp of the centre of the goods. 
This filling necessarily shows to a 
greater or less degree in the borders 
and is regarded as an objectionable 
feature. 

When weaving the better grades of 
goods, those nearly approaching in 
appearance the native hand-made 
goods, another method is adopted to 
make the prevailing color in the bor- 
ders, usually red, as bright as possi- 
ble. They are made on a loom con- 
taining three shuttles, one of which ig 
a fly shuttle and carries the filling for 



238 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



the centres of the cloth; the other two 
are small sihuittles, made to work on 
on© of the poisitive motion principles, 
as on narrow ware looms. These 
two shuttles 

WORK ON OPPOSITE SIDES 
of the loom and interweave only with 
the warp yarns constituting the bor- 
ders. The small shuttles cross the 
ends at the same time as the fly shut- 
tle, so that the amount of production 
is not affected either way by tlhem. 

Three filling forks ai-e used, one for 
each shuttle, so that if any of the fill- 
ings break, the loom isi stopped in- 
stantly. 

The border shuttles run in a differ- 
ent plane, and move in the opposite 
direction to the fly shuttle, so that 
only one pick of fillimg passes in front 
of the filling forks on the pick required 
to actuate the stop-motion. Catch 
threads are used to connect the bor- 
ders and centres. 



LOOM REQUIRED. 

For plain dhooties, in which the 
borders as well as the centres weave 
plain, an ordinary single box loom is 
used,unless cross borders are required, 
when a box motion beicomes neces- 
sary. In England, where these goods 
are extensively manufactured, side 
cam, revolving box looms are usually 
used. 

For the better grades, where the 
borders are interlaced with colored 
and the centres usually with white or 
gray filling, a loom of a special type, 
previously referred to as having posi- 
tively acting and fly shuttles, is used. 
This contains a dobiby or other head 
motion. 

Whether for low or high grades, 
plain or fancy, the border warp yarns 
are usually run from small rollers or 
spools, on account of being reeded 
differently, and are often of different 
counts from the centre yarns. 




When the goods are required to be 
made with colored headings, the box 
motion of the loom is actuated to in- 
sert different colors of filling as may 
be necessary, the loom^ weaving the 
cross borders, or headings, and centre 
automatically. If a fringe is desired, 
it is made in the usual manner. 

The figure ilustratesi one border 
and part of the white centre of a cheap 
dhootie cloth, in which the white fill- 
ing interlaces with both centre and 
border. 

The border is 2 5-16 iniches wide and 
cointains five colors, red, green, yel- 
low, white and orange. The outer 
stripe of red is 1 3-16 inches wide. 
The count of the centre cloth is 52x46, 
and is reeded two ends per dent. The 
fancy weave portion is arranged one 
end of green and one ead of red, alter- 
nately, and is reeded five ends per 
dent. The remainder of the border is 
reeded four ends per dent. With the 
exception of the 32 ends working as 
extra warp the weave of the fabric 
is plain. Eight white ends working 
as four divide the border from the 
centre. The border ends are ply 
yarns. The centre ends and the fill- 
ing are single. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns of which dhooties are 
made would be manufactured in 
mills having the equipmient of ma- 
chinery found in the second division 
of mills as given in a previous article. 
The dhootie which is taken for an 
example will be supposed to be com- 
poseid of o4s warp and 40s filling for 
the centre lanid 2-60s for the borders. 
These yarns are made froim the fol- 
lowing cottons: The 2-60s is made 
from 1%-inch American cotton and is 
combed. The 40s and 34s are made 
from a 1 3-16-iinch staple American 
cotton and may be 

EITHER COMBED OR CARDED. 
Fo'r this article we will consider tha;t 
they are carded, but as it is desirable 
that the yarn shall be as free as pos- 
sible from neps the speeds and set- 
tings of the card will be different from 
those generallly used for this count of 
carded yarn. All three cottons may 
be either mixed by hand or by ma- 
chine; the advantages of machine mix- 
ing (by means of a bale breaker) have 
been already previously given. Each 
mixing should of course be in separate 
bins and as large as possible, so as to 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



239 



cause as little variation as possible in 
tlie finished yarn. It is also an im- 
portant point to &&& tliat thei diffe'rent 
bales are intermixed. The cottons are 
put through am opemer and three proc- 
esses of 

PICKING MACHINERY. 
The good waste as mixed in with the 
raw stock as it is ciodlected, but care 
shDuld be used tO' sicatter the waste, so 
that it w*!!! be^ eivenly divided all over 
the mixing. The hopper of the opener 
sihould be kept full of raw stoiok all 
the time for reasoins given in previous 
articles. The coitton sihouild leave the 
O'penier and be^ delivered on the lattice 
ajproiL of the breaker in a fluffy state, 
and if the hoppier has been kept full 
all the time it will alsoi be fairly even, 
i. >e., if eac'h yard of cotton passed to 
the feed roll is wedghed, a great 
deal of variation will not be founid. 
The beaters of the pickersused for this 
class of goodisi are generally of the rig- 
id two-bladed type, altliough a great 
many are using the' pin heater. When 
the latter is used, it does noit require 
as high a fan speed as the rigid form 
of beater; this isi du© to^ its wide arms, 
and as it has three of these, it makes 

CONSIDERABLY MORE DRAFT 
than the two-bladed tyipo of beater. 

The speed of the beater for 1 3-16- 
inch stock for this class of goods is 1,- 
550 revolutions per minute, and for 
the 1%-inch stock is 1,450 revolutioms 
per minute. The total weight of lap 
at the breaker is 40 pounds for all 
staples or a 16-O'unoei lap. These laps 
are put up at the intermediate picker 
and doubled 4 into 1. The speed of 
the beater of this machine is 1,475 rev- 
olutions per minute for 1 3-16-inch 
stock and 1,425 for 1%-inch stock. The 
total weight oif the lap is 37% pounds 
or a 12-ounce lap for 1%-inch stock, 
and a lO-ounce lap for 1 3-16-inch 
stock. These laps are put up at the 
fimisiher picker and doubled asi before, 
4 into 1. The speed of this heater is 
1,475 revxalutioms per minute for 1 3-16- 
inch staple, and 1,400 revolutions per 
minute for 1%-inich staple. The 
total welight of the lap is 39 pounds 
for 1 3-16-inch staple stock and 35 
pounds for l%-'iniclh staple. A variation 
of half a pound either side of stand- 
ard weight is allowed. All finished 
laps that vary from their standard 
weig'ht more than th.is are put back 
and run through the finisher picker 
again. At this' maohine the cut rov- 
ing waste isi also mixed in. Sometimes 
this is done by taking out two laps 
at the back, the two middle ones, and 
the cut wastei spread evenly over the 
space thus made. It is 



A BETTER METHOD 
to use a roviag waste picker, as then 
all the twist is taken out of the rov- 
ing. After passing through this rov- 
ing picker the cotton is made into a 
Lap at the- breaker or intermediate 
machine and is then put through the 
finisiher picker, when it is useid as fol- 
lows: three laps of raw stock to one 
lap cut roiving waste. The wieight per 
yard at the front of the finisher picker 
is as follows: for 1%-inoh stock, 12y2 
ounces; for 1 3-16-inich stock, 14 
ounces yer yard. The cotton next 
passes to the card. The cards for all 
lengths of staples will be set alike for 
reasoms previously given. Set doffer 
to cylinder with 5-l,O0Oths-inch gauge. 
Set under screen as follows: at licker- 
iii with 12-l,000ths-inch gauge; middle 
to 34-l,000ths and front % of an, inch. 
Licker-in to' cylinder vpith 7-l,000ths 
of an linch. Licker-in screen to lick- 
er-in, 3-16ths of an inch. Set bottom 
licker-in knife with SJl.OOOths gauge, 
top knife to 10-l,000ths of an inch 
gauge. Set feed plate to licker-in to 
7-l,000ths of an inch gauge, and top 
flats to' 12-l,000tlis of an inch gauge. 
The speed of the licker-in should be 
300 revolutiomis per minute. The flats 
miake one complete revolution every 40 
minutes! for all sitock. The jroduction 
should be 500 pounds for 2-60s yarn 
and 600 pounds for the other yarns. 
Cards should be stripped three times 
a day and ground at least once a 
month, when the grdnders should be 
allowed to stay on at least half a 
day. The cards S'hould be reset after 
grinding. Speicial care should be tak- 
en to see that the top fiats are sharp 
and are ground evenly and do not 
have more taken ofC the toe than 
the heel, as is generally the case un- 
less great carei is taken. The weight 
of the sliver is 50 grains per yard for 
each staple. After passing the card 

THE PROCESSES 
of the stocks differ. We will first fol- 
low the course of the carded staples. 
These are put through three processes 
of drawing, the front roll speed at 
each process being 350 revolutions per 
minute. The weight of the sliver 
at the front is 70 grains' per 
yard. Great care should be taken to 
see that the stop-motions are in per- 
fect woirkinig order, otherwise a great 
deal of trouble w^ill result in single 
and double. At the slubber the sliver 
is made into .60 han,k roving. This 
roving is then put through two proices- 
ses of fly frames. At the first interme- 
diate it is made into- 2 hank roving 
and at the second into- 7 hank for 
the 34s warp and 8 hiauk for 40s filling. 



240 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



The card sliver tor titie 2-60s yarn is 
combed and the general sequence of 
processes is asi follows: Sliver lap ma- 
oiMne, where it is douhled 14 into 1 
and has a draft of a'bout 2; a yard of 
lap at the fronit weighing 300 grains 
per yard for an 8%-inich lap. Six of 
these laps arei put up at the ribbon 
lap machine and made intoi a 260 
grain lap at the front. Keep top leath- 
er rolls in good oondition and well 
vamisihed. Six lapsi from the ribbon 
lap machine arei put up at the comber, 
if it is a six-head machine, or eight 
laps if it is an eight-^head miachine.and 
the weight of the finisihed sliver is 45 
grains per yard. The 

SPEED OP THIS COMBER 

is 90 nips per minute, the per cent of 
waste taken out being 16. Keep the 
detaching rolls well varnished, recipes 
for which have beea given in previous 
articlesi as well as a means for keep- 
ing the laps of the leather from split- 
ting. After passing the comber the 
sliver is put thirough two proceisseis of 
leather covered top roll drawing 
frames, the doublings being 8 into 1 
at the breaker anid 6 into 1 at the fin- 
isher. The weight of the sliver at the 
finisher drawing is 70 grains per yard. 
This is made into .50 hank roving at 
the slubber and is then put through 
three processesi of fly frames, the hank 
roving at each being as follows: First, 
1 hank; second, 3i/^ hank, and fine 
frame-, 12 hank. This is then taken to 
the ring spinning room and spun into 
60s on a frame with a 1%-inch diame- 
ter ring, 5-inch traverse, and 
a spindle speed of 8,000 revolu- 
tions per minute; after which it is 
doubled intO' 2-60s.. The roving for 
the 40s filling is spun on a rilng frame 
having a 1%-inich diameter ring, ^Vz- 
inch traverse and a spindle speed of 
8,800 revolutions per minute, and then 
spooled and warped anid put through a 
slasher. The roving for warp is spun 
into 34s on a warp spinning frame 
with a 1%-inch diameter ring, 6i/^-inch 
traverse, and a spindle speed of 10,200 
revolutions per minute, after which it 
is taken to^ the conditioning room. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

BLUB. 

Three per cent immedial in done B; 
2 per cent immedial in done 3 B; 5 per 
cent sodium sulphide; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 30 per cent Glauber's. 

GREEN. 

Five per cent immiedial yellow D; 5 
per cent immedial indone B; 10 per 



cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda 
ash; 30 per cent Glauber's. 
RED. 

Six per cent primuline; 30 per cent 
Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda, rinse; 
diazo'tize: 2i/^ per cent nitrite soda; 
rinse; develop: 2 per cent beta naph- 
thol, rinse and soap ^.t 150 degrees P. 
YELLOW. 

Mordant with tannine and tartar 
emetic, rinse; dye with 3^ per cent 
thioflavine T and rinse. 

LIGHT GREEN. 

Dye yellow with thioflavine T; and 
dye on top with 2 per cent brilliant 
green Y; rinse and give a weak soap- 
ing. 

ORANGE. 

Dye with 6 per cent primuline after- 
treat with 1/^ degree Tw. solution of 
chloride of lime. 

LIGHT BROWN. 

Four per cent thion orange N; 4 
per cent sulphide soda; 2 per cenlt so- 
da ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt; af- 
tertreat with 2 per cent sulphate of 
copper. 

' MYRTLE GREEN. 

Eight per cent thion green G; 2 per 
cent thion yellow G; 2 per cent thion 
green B; 10 per cent sulphide soda; 3 
per cent soda ash; 25 per cent salt. 
WINE. 

Eight per cent thiogene red O; 8 per 
cent sulphide soda; 3 per cent soda 
ash; 25 per cent salt. 

BLUE BLACK. 

Ten per cent immedial brilliant 
black B; 10 per cent sulphide soda; 3 
per cent soda ash; 25 per cent salt. 



UNEQUALLY REEDED STRIPES 

Under the above heading may be in- 
cluded an extensive type of cotton fab- 
rics, variously known as satin or sat- 
een stripes, doria stripes, etc. 

They are made in all grades, from 
medium to fine, and used for many 
purposes, such as dress fabrics, cur- 
tain hangings, etc., and are usually 
shown in all white or solid colors. 

They are characterized by promi- 
nent stripe effects which appear to 
stand up from the ground of the cloth. 

The raised stripes are produced by 
crowding more ends in a given space 
than are contained in an equal space 
occupied by the ground enids and by 
weaving them differently. As a rule 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



241 



the yarns forming the raised stripes 
are woven in satin or twill order, 
warp flush weaves, while those form- 
ing the ground weave plain. 

Theoretically, warp endis weaving 
plain should take up or contract in 
length faster than ends weaving twill 
or satin, on account of the greater 
number of interlacings. This applies 
to cloths in which each dent cointalns 
the same numiber of ends throughout 
the entire width of cloth. 

It has been found in practice that 
when weaving a fabric containing sec- 
tions reeded, say, two ends per dent, 
and others four or five ends per dent, 
the yams that are crowded in the reed 
will contract more than those reeded 
two ends per dent. For example, a 



B 



B 



nanBDaaB dbbhbb gb bdbb db bbbbbb 

BDBGBDBa BBBBDB BO BBBD BD BBBBDB 
DBDBDBaB BBDBBB DB DBBB OB BBDBBB 
BDBDBDBD BBBBBD BQ BBDB BD BBBBBD 
DBDBDBDB BDBBBB DB BDBB DB BDBBBB 
B JBDBDBD BBBDBB BD BBBD BD BBBDBB 
DBDBDBDB DBBBBB DB DBBB DB DBBBBB 
BDBDBDBD BBBBDB BD BBDB BD BBBBDB 
DBDBDBDB BBDBBB DB BDBB DB DBDBBB 
BDBDBDBD BBBBBD BD BBBD BD BBBBBD 
DBDBDBDB BDBBBB DB DBBB DB BDBBBB 
BDBDBDBD BBBDBB BD BBDB BD BBBDBB 

6 times 2 times 5 times 2 times 
Fig 1. 

warp stripe interlaced in five ends sat- 
in order and reeded five endsi per 
dent vrauld contract in length, about 
as fast as tbe yarn© weaving plain in 
the same fabric, if tlie latter were of 
the same counts of yam and reeded 
two ends per dent. This fact explalins 
the reason why satin stripe fabrics are 
usually woven from one beam. 

A characteristic weave is shown in 
Fig. 1. 

The warp lay-out of one repeat of 
the pattern is as follows: 



Inds. Dents. 




Harnesses. 


48 24 




1 to 6 


12 2 




7 10 12 


2 1 




1 and 2 i 


4 1 




13 to 16 S 5 times. 


2 1 




1 and 2 


12 2 




7 to 12 


Selvedges on harnesses 


1 and 


I 2. 



The chain draft is shown in Fig. 2. 

In Fig. 1 sections A weave plain, sec- 
tions B weave 6 end warp satin, and 
sections C weave broken crow, warp 
face. 

When combining weaves in this 
manner one of the principal points to 
consider is to bring the warp float 
of one section opposite the filling float 
of the adjoining section, or, as it is 
termed, they should be made to "cut" 
each other as well as posisi'ble. When 
this is done, the stripes have a more 
distinct and cleaner cut appeai^ance 
than when it is ignored. 

The construction data of the sample 
under consideration are: warp, 45s; 
filling, 40s Egyptian; finished width, 



28 inches; width in reed, 29.9 inches; 
ends in warp, 2S5G; sley reed, 76. 
This represents the proportional 
number of ends per inch in the plain 
section. Average sley, 102. This in- 
dicates the average numbeir of ends 
per inch in the entire width of cloth. 
Picks per inch, 80. 

These goods may be woven on a 
single box dobby loom, the warp yarns 
being of one count, and one filling 
only being required. 

The fabrics are found in many va- 
riations of patterns and qualities, and 
are subjected to suitable methods of 
finishing, according to the use to 
which they are intended to be put. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The mills that make unequally reed- 
ed stripes will be found in the second 
division, and while the count of yarn 
varies to a great extent for this class 
of goods, a good average count would 
be 45s warp yarn and 40s filling. It is 
not our intention to say much about 
the- cotton warp yarn otherwise than 
a few general remarks, i. e., that the 
yarn is of 1% to 1% inch American 
sitoek anid carded, the hank rovings 
being as follows: for the slubber .55 
hank, first intermediate, 2.50, and for 
the fine fly frame 10 hank, and is ring 
apun into 45s yam. Further partic- 
ulars for making this count of yarn 
may be found in previous articles deal- 
ing with the same length of stock and 

Top. 

DBDBDBDBBBBBBDBB 

BDBDBDBBBBDBBBBD 

DBDBDBBBDBBBDBBB 

■DBDBDBBBBBDBBDB 

DBDBDBBDBBBBBDBB / 

BDBDBDBBBDBBBBBD 

DBDBDBDBBBBBDBBB 

BDBDBDBBBBDBBBDB 

"bdbdbbbdbbbbdbb 

BDBDBDBBBBBDBBBD 
nBDBDBBDBBBBDBBJ 
BjBG&DBBBDBBBBDB 

Fig 2. 

making counts of yam from 35s to 50s. 
In this article it is our intention to 
deal with 

THE FILLING YARN 
which is made from Egyptian cotton 
of 1%-inch staple. On account of its pe- 
culiar nature E.gj^ptian cotton is es- 
pecially adapted for filling yarns and 
it is a general custom to make the 
filling yarnsi of this kind of cotton, al- 
though it is not done in all styles of 
fabrics, and while the fllling yams of 
fabrics previously described might 
equally as well have heen made out of 
Egyptian cotton, still for some special 
reason the kind of cotton given for 
filling yarns has been- sele-oted. The 
Egyptian bale is about 300 pounds 
heavier than the American bale, so 



242 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



that so large a number will not be re- 
quired in the mixing, which may be 
done by hand or by the use of a bale 
breaker. It will also be found that 
Egyptian cotton is much more easily 
handled than other kinds of cotton. 
By this we mean that it gives less 
trouble to oiperate it at the different 
processe'S. The mixing should be 
made in the same manner as descrtibed 
in previous articles. The cotton for 
this stock is put through three proc- 
esses of picking and an- opener. The 
beater used at each process is gener- 
ally the two-bladed rigid type. The 

SPEED OP THE BEATER 
at the breaker picker is 1,450 revolu- 
tions per minute; at the intermediate 
picker 1,375 revolutions per minute, 
and at the finisher picker 1,200 revo- 
lutions per minu'te. The total weight 
of a lap at the breaker picker is 40 
pounids or a 20-ounoe lap; at interme- 
diate picker, 38 pounds^ or a 12-ounce 
lap, and at the finisher picker, 35 
pounds or a 12%-ounce lap. The in- 
structions given in previous articles 
for picking should be followed. At 
the card the draft for this stock should 
not be less 'than 120. The flats should 
make one oompleite revolution every 
30 minutes, and the speed of the lick- 
er-in should be about 300 revolutions 
per minute. The weight of the sliver 
at the fronit should be 45 grains and 
the production for a week of 60 hours 
should be nioit more than 500 pounds. 
The setting points sihiould be set to the 
same gauges as- given in last article, 
while the particulars given for grind- 
ing, cleaning, stripping and oiling that 
have already been given for the same 
length of staple of American stock 
may be used. Egyptian cotton is eas- 
ily combed an!d,as one overseer puts it, 
might be combed with a rake; still 
considerable care should be given to it 
to see' that it is properly done. The 
particulars for sliver lap machine, rib- 
bon lap machine and six-head comber 
for an 8%-iinch lap are as follows: 
Sliver lap machine doubles 14 into 1 
and weight per yard of lap is 295 
grains; at the ribboni lap machine the 
doubling is 6 inito 1, the weight per 
yard being 260 grains; at the' comber 
ttie dou'blinig ist 6 initO' 1, the weight 
of the silver is 47 grains. The 
percentagei of waste taken out at the 
comber for this stock for fabric named 
is 16. Use settings and turnings giv- 
en in a previous article. 

THE COMBER SLIVER 
is next put through two processes of 
drawing, the Vireight per yard at the 
front being 70 grains per yard with 
doublings of 6 into 1 at each process. 



Use either metallic or leather top cov- 
ered rolls, this stock running equal- 
ly well on each. At the slubber the 
sliver is made into .50 hank roving 
and from here it passes through three 
processes of fly frames, the hank rov- 
ing at each being as follows: First 
intermediate, 1 hank; second interme- 
diate, 3 hank, and fine frame, 10 hank. 
The twist gear used at each pi-ooees 
should be one tooth smaller than that 
used ft)r the same hank of roving 
made from American cotton. Watch 
the rolls, both top and bottom, tO' see 
that they are properly seit. After leav- 
ing the fine frame the roving may be 
either mule or ring spun, sometimes 
one and sometimes the other being 
preferred for certain reasons. For 
this fabric the roving iS' generally ring 
spun. For spinning 40s filling yarn of 
1 5-16-inch staple Egyptian cotton use 
a frame with a 2%-inch gauge, 1%- 
inch diiamieter rinig, and a S^-inch 
traversie, and spindle speed of 8,800'- 
revolutions per minute. 



Dyeing Particulars. 
PEARL. 
Four ounces immedial black N R T; 
% per cent sulphide sodium; 1 per- 
cent soda ash; 10 per cent Glauber's. 
SLATE. 
One per cent diatmine black B H; 4 
ounces diamine fast yellow B; 1 per 
cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glauber's 
salt. 

FAWN. 
One per cent diamine fast yellow B; 
4 ounces diamineral brown G; % 
ounce diamine brown B; 1 pound sal 
soda; 20 per cent Glauber's. 
SCARLET. 
Five per cent diamine scarlet B; 2' 
per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

RED. 
Four per cent diamine fast red F; 
2 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

MYRTLE GREEN. 
Four per cent benzo green G G; % 
per cent chrysophenine ; % per cent^ 
benzo fast bl'ack; 3 per cent sal soda; 
30 per cent Glauber's. 

HELIOTROPE. 
Two per cent tetrazo lilac B; 2 per- 
cent sal soda; 25 per cent Glaui)er's. 
LIGHT BROWN. 
Two and one-half per cent diamine- 
brown 3 G; 2 per cent sal soda; 25 per 
cent Glauber's. 

DARK BROWN. 
Three per cent diamineral brown G; 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



243 



% per cent diamine brown M; 1 per 
oenit diaanlne catecMne B; 2 per cent 
sal sod'a; 30 per cent Glauber's. 
NAVY BLUE. 
Six per cent diamine dark blue B; 
2 per cent sal soda; 25 per ceat Glau- 
ber'© salt. 

WINE. 
Five per cent diamine^ Bordeaux B; 
Vz per cent diiamime fast red F; 3 per 
cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glauber's. 
PINK. 
One'iliialf per eenit Erika pink G; 1 
per cent sal soda; 10 per cent sialt. 
SKY BLUE. 
One per cent diamine sky blue F F; 
% per cent sal soda; 15 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

BLACK. 
Ten per cent im'medial black N N; 2 
per cent soda ash; 10 per oeint sodium 
sulphide; 30 per cent Glauber's. 



STOP PEG CHECKS, 



The above term is used in cotton 
mills to indicate a type of fabric ex- 
tensively made for dress goods and 
decorative purposes. In the dry goods 
trade the goods are found under va- 
rious names. 

They are an extension of the type of 
goods, unequally reeded stripes, ex- 
plained in the last article,and are char- 
acterized by certain yarns in both warp 
and filling appearing to stand up from 
the ground cloth in regular or irregu- 
lar block effects. They are usually 
woven white and bleached or dyed as 
may be required. 

This article is really supplementary 
to the last one, the points referred to 
there applying equally as well here. 

A check is almost always formed by 
a crossover effect in the filling in con- 
nection with a distinguishing stripe in 
the warp. If the effect warp way is 
not as prominent or more prominent 
than the effect filling way, a barry pat- 
tern is produced, objectionable in al- 
most all classes of textile fabrics. 

In stop peg checks the effect warp 
way is formed by crowding some of 
the ends and weaving them in a differ- 
ent manner from the others, as in un- 
equally reeded stripes. The effect fill- 
ing way is formed by interlacing the 
yarns in a certain manner, say plain, 
for a certain number of picks, then 
changing the order of interlacing to 
another weave, say a filling sateen, 
for a definite number of picks. 

When weaving the plain section, the 



take-up motion of the loom works in 
the ordinary manner, whereas when 
weaving the filling satin section it Is 
disconnected, as required, so that 
more picks will be inserted in a given 
space. 

The device used for disconnecting 
the take-up motion is usually connect- 
ed to one of the levers of the dobby 
and called into action by pegs placed 
in the pattern chain; hence the term, 
stop peg checks. 

A friction let-off is preferable to a 
positive let-off motion for this class 
of goods. Fig. 1 illustrates an exam- 
ple of the simpler type, consisting of 
sections of plain, warp sateen and fill- 
ing sateen. The analysis of the sam- 
ple under consideration shows the fol- 
lowing data: Warp, 60's; filling, 90's; 
cloth width, 27.5 inches. In the plain 
sections there are, in proportion, 72 



Fig. 1. 

ends and 72 picks per inch. The av- 
erage number of ends and picks per 
inch is 114 each. 

The warp lay-out for one pattern is 
as follows: 



Ends. 


Dents. 




24 


12 = 


2 ends per dent 


30 


5 ^ 


6 ends per dent 


34 


12 = 


2 ends per dent 


30 


5 = 


6 ends per dent 



108 34 

One warp only has been used. 
The harness draft is shown at Fig. 



u 



4 Times. 5 Times. 4 Times. 5 Times. 
Fig. !. 



244 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



The chain draft, exclusive of sel- 
vedge, is shown in Fig. 3. In this fig- 
ure marks \ correspond to the plain 
sections in the cloth; dots corre- 
spond to the warp satin sections in 



> f / / t / K 
a t / 4 / / X ^ 

O / / //• H ■ 

' / / / / X ■ 

O / / / / / K ■ 

o / /^ / / 4 11 ■ 

» / J / / / K ■ 

-» /// / / -x m 

*r / / / / / % ^ 

///// « 

O 4 / / i / X 

9/ //// X 

> //'//'/' >( B 
"///// JC ■ 

» // /// « ■ 

/ / /// X ■ 

e / f / 4 / < ■ 

\ \ \ ••••• •• «• 

V \ \«**** •••«« 
\ V \ • •••• •'- • • • • 

\ \ \«*«« ««••• • 

N \ V •• •••«• • •* 
S \ S, •«••• ••««« 

\ \ «•• ••••• •« 

^ <l, >«««•« «•••* 

\ \ s % ••«•« •••• 

\ V \«*** ••••• • 

V \ •» •«••« •«• 

> V \ *•••• ••••• 

> \ •** ••••• •• 

~N -K v«%»«« ••••• 

» > t «•••• •••• 

x^ vta«« ••••• • 




{;: 



/// / /■ 

X / / / / / 

/ / / / / 

/ / / / f 

//// / 

// /■/ / 

// /// 

// / // 

/// // 

/ / f /r 

/// / / 

/ //" / / 

% f / / / / 

K / /■ f f 4 

/ // // 

/ // /^ 



\ \ \« •• ••••• « 

K ^ \ ••••« ••••• 

V V ••• ••••» •• 

\ \ • •••%• ••«« 

V V v»f*« ♦•••• « 

\ \ •• ••»•* ••« 

V V V «•.«%« •«••« 
\ V •*• *•«•*_♦• 

V V ^••••» ••♦•• 
X \ p ••••• *t«« 

X \ va«** ••••« • 
\ V at ••••# ««• 
\ V \ ••#•• ••«•• 

V V ■•• •«•!• •« 



I 
I 






• • • « • 

I t, 3 -« S 6 7 fi 4 11 li li 17 la 

'" IX It- IS r9 
Fig. 3. 

the cloth; circles correspond to the 
filling satin sections in the cloth; 
crosses correspond to the filling satin 



sections in the cloth where the same 
cross over the ends crowded in the 
reed, this is a filling satin with two 
picks in a shed; marks / correspond 
to the warp satin sections in the cloth 
where the same cross over the picks 
forming filling satin with the other- 
wise plain ends; solid marks indicate 
stop pegs. 

The warp satin sections are woven 
two picks in a shed when the other 
sections of ends are weaving filling 
satin. On these picks the take-up mo- 
tion is out of connection on 20 out of 
30 picks, the entire 30 picks occupying 
only as much space as 10 picks in the 
plain sections. 

The positions of the stop pegs can- 
not always be determined before the 
cloth is being woven. When a change 
is made from plain to filling satin it is 
not necessary to insert stop pegs for 
a few picks because the picks go in 
easier in the filling satin sections. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

An ordinary single box dobby loom 
fixed with device referred to may be 
used when weaving these goods. One 
warp only is required. 

Unequally reeded stripes and stop 
peg checks may be placed in the novel- 
ty class, being in demand one season 
and out of demand the next; also on 
account of varying considerably in 
pattern and quality. As such they are 
usually woven on looms fitted up for 
weaving from two or more warp 
beams. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns for sitop peg checks are 
made in mills of the second and third 
divisions of mills as given in a pre- 
vious article. The couruts of yam used 
for this fabric diffeir aooording to tlie 
quality of the fabric desired, aind for 
the carding and sipinning particulars 
we will consider the sajnple to be 
made up of 60s wajrp and 90s filling 
yarns. Both of these counts of yarn 
will be combed, the warp yarn being 
made from. 1%-inch Allen or peeler 
cottoin and the filling yarn from either 
Egyptian of 1%-inich staple or, as is 
more general, from Seia Island cot- 
ton of 1%-inch staple. The processes 
used for the Sea Island cotton will first 
be described, and as the processes for 
1%-inch American cotton have already 
been described only those points that 
differ from those already explained 
will be given. In mixing Sea Island 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



245 



cotton a great deal of care sihould 
he taken to see that all bales put 
into the miixtur© sitaple the same. 
At the mixing bins the good sliver and 
picker waste from the machines up to 
the slubber mil be mixed in. As 

SEA. ISLAND COTTON 

has to be handled as little as poissible, 
on aooount of tlie ©asewith which neps 
are put in, geinerally only on© piroioess 
of picking and an opener is used, al- 
though some mills use two processes. 
If only one process Is used, the speed 
of the beater should be just high 
enough to beaJt out the dirt, and this 
varies according to the grade and 
quality of the raw stock. For a fair 
average a two-bladed rigid type of 
beater should make about 1,200 revo^ 
lutions per minute, wh!ich will give 
the cotton passing through about 29 
bieats or blows per in,ch. The. lattice 
apron of this machine is measured 0if£ 
amd marked initO' yard spaces, and tbe 
cotton as it comes from 'the apron is 
weighed and spread evenly over this 
space. The lap at the froinit end 
weighs 30 pounds or a lO-oumoe lap 
per yard. A variation of only six 
ounces either side of standard weight 
is allowed for this cotton. At the 
card the sarate care is taken to prevent 
neps and the speed of certain) narts is 
changed tO' 'help this result. The 
speed of the Mcker-in is reduced abouit 
50 revolutions per minute from thiat 
when American cotton is used. The 

SPEED OF THE FLATS 

is increased to make one complete 
revolution every 35 minutes; the flats 
are also set to a No. 10 giauge in- 
stead of a No. 12, as coimpared with 
American cotton. The cylinder and 
dofBer are only stripped twice a day, 
but the card wire is always kept 
sharp and in perfeot condition.. The 
weight of the sliver at the front is 
45 grains per yard and the production 
for a week of 60 hours should mot be 
over 400 pounds per week. The sliver 
is next taken to the sliver lap ma- 
chine or in some cases a drawing 
frame is used first and a sliver lap 
machine afterwards. If tlie former 
method is used, the weight of the lap 
should be about 230 grains per yard, 
the doublings bieing 14 into 1 fbr an 
8%-inoh lap. These laps are doubled 
at the ribbon lap machine 6 Into 1, the 
weight of the lap at thie front being 
220 grains per yard. If a drawing 
frame is used after the card, the rib- 
bon lat) machine is not used, and the 
weight" of lap at the sliver lap ma- 



chine should be 220 grains per yard. 
The laps at both the ribbon and sliver 
lap machine© should be sized once a 
day. Thie laps are next put up at the 
comber and doubled according to the 
number of heads that it contains, eitb- 
er six or eight. The percent of waste 
taken out at this machine for this 
stock varies according to the overr- 
seers' ideas, but a good average per- 
cent is 22. 

THE WASTE PERCENTAGE 

should be taken from six difPenent 
combers every day. Keep the rolls 
well varnished and other parts well 
polished and as free from dirt as pos- 
sible. Watch the piecing and also 
for single. Keep your setting poinits 
to gauge and time. The sliver at this 
machine weighs 35 grains. This sliv- 
er is put through twO' processes of 
drawin(g frames, the revolutions per 
minute of front roll being 320, 'the 
doublings 6 into 1 at both processes, 
and the weight of sliver at the flnisih- 
er being 60 grains per yard. Follow 
insitructions given for drawing frames 
in previous articles. The sliver at the 
drawing frame should be sized 4 times 
a day.and a variation of only one grain 
per yard allowed. The drawing sliver 
is next put up to the slubber and 
made into .80 hank roving, after wbich 
it is put through three processes of 
fly frames, the hank roving at eacE be- 
ing as follows: First intermediate, 
2.25 hank; second, 5 hank, and fine, 
18 hanik. At the fine frames the rov- 
ing is sized once a day. The usual 
care that has been previously ex- 
plained should be giiven to all parts 
of the fly frames, and in a'Sdition the 
top leather rolls of tbe slubbier should 
be varnished. It is best, but not al- 
ways convenient, to have thie slubber 
rolls used of a little larger diamieter 
than when other cottons are used. 
This is on account of the length of the 
staple, to help prevent "UcMvg." The 
roving is next spun, either a ring 
frame or mule being used, generally 
the latter. If a ring firamei is used, 
the gauges should be as follows: For 
90s yam from this stock, lii^incb 
diameter ring, 5-inob traverse, 31 
turns per inch and a spindlei speed of 
7,400. After being conditioned, tbe 
yam is ready to use. For the warp 
yarn use the particulars given in 
the article on dhooties, except that 
the yarn is not twisted. A good size 
mixture for slasher is as follows: War 
ter, 100 gallons; potato starch, 54 
poundsi; Yorksbire gum, 2 poundsi; 
white soap, l^^ pounds. 



246 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



SUSPENDER WEBBING, 



Suspender webbing is. as the name 
implies, used for suspenders. It is 
of two types, elastic and non-elastic. 
The non-elastic type is made into s^us- 
penders in connection with elastic 
straps connected to the buckles. An 
advantage claimed for this webbing is 
that there is no friction on the cloth- 
ing at the shoulders, the rubber at the 
front and back, on the part between 
the buttons and the buckles, taking 
care of variable tensions caused by 
the diffeirent movements of the body. 

Being subjected to hard usage, the 



By comparing Figs. 1 and 2 it will he 
seen that the weib is a multiple or com- 
pound fabric, all face ends being 
raised when back picks are inserted, 
all back ends depresised when face 
picks are inserted, all lubber ends 
raised on back picks and depressed on 
face picks, thereby being between the 
face anid back fabrics. 

The binders tie the fabrics into one 
compound fabric. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

Suspender looms are made with 
more or less attachments according to- 
requirements. They are capable of 
running upwards of 40 webs at the 
same time, so the production of one 
loom is loonsiiderable. The shuttles,. 
one for each web in the simpler type,. 



+ 

5 5 5 
4 4 4 
3 3 


7 
6 
5 
4 
3 .3 
2 

1 


7 

G 
5 5 
4 
3 
2 
! 


7 

6 
5 
4 4 
3 
2 
1 


G 
5 
i 
3 3 
2 
1 


7 

6 
5 5 
4 
3 
2 
1 


^ 

7 

6 
5 
4 4 
3 
•2 

1 


^7 

G 
5 5 

4 
3 3 
2 


4 

5 5 
4 4 4 
3 3 3 



Pig. 1. 



goods are made firm in the loom, of 
strong materials. They are of vary- 
ing grades and qualities. In width 
they vary from 1 to 1% inches. 

The analysis of a cotton webbing of 
a cheap grade shows the following 
data: warps, 117 ends of 2-40s cotton 
for face and edges; 50 ends of 2-20s for 
back; 24 ends of 2-30S' for binders or 
stitchers; 25 ends of 42 rubber. 

There are 90 picks of 2-16s filling per 
inch, finished. As these goods are 
held tight in the loom on account of 
the rubber warp, 60 picks per inch 
only would be put in in the loom, the 
webbing cointracting 50 per cent in 
length after being woven. 

The width of the web is 1 7-16 
inches. 

The full layout is shown in the har- 
ness draft. Fig. 1, the various warps 
being drawn as follows: binider ends 
through harness No. 1, rubber ends 
through hairneiss No. 2, face and edge 
ends through harnesses Nos. 3, 4 and 
5, and the back ends through har- 
nesses Nos. 6 and 7. The daggers 
indicate where* the ends a.re divided 
by the reed, the entire web occupying 
27 dents of a reed containing 17 dents 
per inch. 

Each binder end works between two 
back ends. To add bulk to the fab- 
ric, coarse ends are sometimes insert- 
ed in the centre of the cloth; theise 
are drawn throug'h the siame harnessies 
as the rubber. 

The chain draft is shown in Fig. 2. 



are actuiated on the rack and pinion 
principile in a positive manner. On 
some goods, where silk filling is used 
for figuring purposes, three or foui 
sihtittles are required for each web. 

Goodsi like the one under oonsideira- 
tion would be woven on a posiitively 
acted side cam loom, actuated by in- 
terchangeable sectional cams. The 
cams are 12 picks to the round or re- 
peat. One shuttle only is required for 
each web. 

For more elaborate goods a dobby 

DBDBDD 
OBBBBDa 
BDCBBDO 
DBBBBBD 
BDBBODn 
□BBBBDB 
BDBnBDa 
DBBBBBD 
BDDBBDD 
DBBBBDB 
BDBBDDD 
1 2 3 4 5 6 T 

Fig. 2. 

or jacquard head is used in connec- 
tion with the car!::.s, thCi latter work- 
ing the harnesses for the ground, and 
the head motion aotuating the figuring 
yarns. 

Separate warp beams, or spools, are 
required for each different count of 
warp yam, for each web. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Like other fabrics that have been 
already described in these articles, the 
yarns of which the webbing for 
suspenders is made vary as to 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



247 



count, but in this especial case there 
is also a wide range of the stock used 
and also as to whether it shall be 
carded or carded and combed. The 
higher grades of webbing are com- 
posed of the longer stapled cottons, 
even the longest staple Sea Island 
cotton being used for the very fine 
grades, this cotton being of course 
combed, and from this down to the 
short stapled carded cotton. The sam- 
ple that has been taken for this arti- 
cle is of medium grade and is com- 
posed of four different counts of 
yarn, which are as follows: 2-40s warp 
for face and ends and 2-20s for the 
back; 2-30s is used for the binder and 
2-16S for the filling yarns. The 2-40s 
and 2-30s yarns would be constructed 
from the same staple and stock, or 
American cotton of 1 5-16-inch staple 
and the 2-20s and 2-16s would be made 
from peeler cotton of 1%-inch staple. 
The picking particulars that have been 
given in previous articles may be used 
for these counts and staple cottons 
may be used, the following exceptions 
being noted. The total weight of the 
lap at the different processes for the 
1 5-16-inch stock is as follows: 
breaker picker, 40 pounds or a 16- 
ounce lap; intermediate picker, 38 
pounds or a 12-ounce lap and at the 
finisher picker 35 pounds or a 12%- 
ounce lap. For the 1%-inch stock the 
weights would be as follows: 40 
pounds or a 16-ounce lap at the break- 
er, 39 pounds or a 12%-ounce lap at the 
intermediate and 39 pounds or a 14i/^- 
ounce lap at the finisher picker. The 
beater speeds used would be the same 
for both cottons, i. e., 1,500 revolu- 
tions per minute at breaker and in- 
termediate and 1,450 revolutions per 
minute at the finisher, which gives the 
cotton passing through the finisher 
picker about 42 beats or blows per 
inch. At the card the draft of the 
1 5-16-inch stock should be not less 
than 100 and the speed of the licker-in 
^50 revolutions per minute, while the 
flats, 110, make one complete revolu- 
tion every 50 minutes. The 

WEIGHT OF THE SLIVER 
should be about 60 grains per yard 
and the production 750 pounds per 
week of 60 hours. The draft for the 
1%-inch stock should not exceed 95 
and the speed of the licker-in is about 
375 revolutions per minute, while the 
flats make a revolution every 55 min- 
utes. The weight of the sliver should 
be 65 grains per yard and the produc- 
tion 850 to 900 pounds per week. For 
-all other particulars, see previous arti- 
cles. The main point of difference in 
the setting points would be at the 



licker-in and feed plate, which should 
be set to accommodate each staple. 
The slivers are next put through three 
processes of drawings, the doublings at 
each process being 6 into 1. 

The weight of the sliver at the fin- 
isher drawing should be 70 grains per 
yard for both staples and the speed of 
the front roll 350 revolutions per min- 
ute. Either metallic or leather cov- 
ered top rolls may be used, but should 
favor the metallic rolls for these 
stocks. The drawings should be sized 
four times a day, and kept within two 
grains either side of standard weight. 
Watch your stop-motions and also 
the drawing as it is being delivered 
to see that no cut work is- made, 
for this causes a lot of trouble 
in subsequent processes. All drawing as 
it is delivered in full cans at the fin- 
isher drawing should be marked with 
chalk so that it may always be dis- 
tinguished from other staples, kinds 
and weights. These slivers are then 
put through the slubber and made in- 
to .50 hank roving, after which they 
are made into the following hank rov- 
ing at the different processes named: 
For the 2-40s yarn, first intermediate, 
2 hank, and second, 8 hank; for 2-30s 
yarn, first intermediate, 2 hank, and 
second, 6 hank; for 2-20s yarn, first 
intermediate, 1.25 hank, and second, 4 
hank; for 2-16s yarn, first intermedi- 
ate, l.and 3 at the second intermediate. 
These rovings should be sized once a 
day, six bobbins being sized from each 
different hank. 

WATCH YOUR TWIST 
to see that you are putting in neither 
too much nor too little, and also your 
tension to see that you are not putting 
too great a strain on the yarn and 
thus making strained or unevenly 
drawn roving. The layers per inch are 
also another important point and for 
the hank rovings given above a good 
number is as follows: For the 3 hank, 
20 layers per inch; for 4 hank, 25 lay- 
ers; 6 hank, 33 layers, and for 8 hanks, 
38 layers. The top leather rolls should 
always be kept in good condition and 
if not should be sent to be recovered. 
In putting in new rolls always put two 
new rolls on the same arbor and not, 
as is sometimes done, one old roll and 
one new roll. Keep 

ROLLS WELL OILED 
and also the spindle stops, which 
should be oiled at least once a month. 
The roving is next spun on spinning 
frames into 40s, 30s, 20s, and 16s, re- 
spectively. The particulars for these 
frames, with the exception of the i6s, 
have been previously given. For spin- 



248 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



ning 16s filling use a frame having a 
2%-incli gauge, li^-inch diameter ring 
and a 61/i-incIi traverse with a spindle 
speed of 7,000 revolutions per minute 
of the spindles. The yarn is then put 
through several special processes dif- 
ferent from the machinery used for 
regular cloth warp and filling, when it 
is ready for the suspender loom. 



INDIAN DIMITY. 



Dyeing Particulars. 
SKY BLUE. 
One per coat diamine sky blue F F; 
2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

PINK. 

One-hajlf per cent erika pink G; 1 
per cent sal soida; 10 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

L.IGHT GREEN. 

One-half per cent diajmine fast yel- 
low B; % per cent diamine green G; 
1 per cent sal soda; 10 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

YELLOW. 

One per cent chrysophenime; 2 per 
cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glauber's. 

RED. 

Two per oemt diajminei fast red F; 

1 per cent s'al soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

SCARLET. 

Three per cent 'benzo fast red 4 B; 

2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's salt. 

SLATE. 

One per cent diamine black B H; 
% per cent diamine fast yellow A; 1 
per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's salt. 

BROWN. 
Two per cent diamine brown B; V2 
per cent diamine fast yellow A; 2 per 
cent sal so'da; 20 per cent Glauber's 
salt. 

NAVY BLUE. 
Three per cent diamine dark blue 
B; 1 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent 
Glauber's. 

BLACK. 

Five per cent oxydiamine black N 
A; 2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cenit 
Glauher's; aftertreat with formalde- 
hyde. 

BRONZE. 

Three per cent diamine bronze G; 2 
per cent sal so'da; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

ECRU. 

Two ounces diamine catechine G; V2 
pound sal soda; 10 per cent Glauber's. 



Under the head of dimity ai'e a va- 
riety of cotton fabi'ics characterized by 
Btripes and cords, in both warp and 
filling way of the fabric, but more com- 
monly the stripes and cords are in the 
warp only. 

Dimity originally was understood to 
mean a stout cotton fabric with raised 
stripes, cords, crimps or ridges in the 
warp way of the fabric. These fabrics 
were further ornamented by being 
printed in various colors lengthwise of 
the fabric, in small patterns. This fab- 
ric was principally used for furniture 
covering and for like purposes. 

Under the head of Indian dimity is a 
class of fabrics somewhat similar to 
the dimity described above, but made 
with finer yarn and used principally as 
a dress fabric. 

The stripes and cords, however, con- 
stitute 

THE CHARACTERISTIC FEATURE 
of the fabric; the fabric without these 
stripes and cords would in all respects 
resemble a fair quality of lawn, batiste 
or muslin. 

The cords in an Indian dimity ap- 
pear in the fabric at regular intervals 
across the entire width. These cords 
may be effected by working two or 
more ends on the same harness or by 
using a coarser thread than the body 
of the warp. The cord usually inter- 
laces with the filling in the same man- 
ner as the ground; that is, on the 
plain weave order. In addition to these 
cords, the fabric, after it is woven, is 
printed in stripes in the direction of 
the warp, with high colors. The pat- 
terns of these stripes are usually con- 
ventionalized floral figures. These 
floral stripes may alternate with an ap- 
propriate geometrical figured stripe. In 
the latter stripe the colors are usually 
more subdued, thus producing contrast 
and variety, a very desirable feature in 
a dress fabric, especially so in the 
cheaper grades of printed dress fabrics. 

Varying the quality of cotton fabrics 
is such a general practice and is car- 
ried to such an extent that some fab- 
rics lose their individuality; a 
fabric such as an Indian dimity, that 
has features in addition to its construc- 
tion, has considerable scope for varia- 
tion, consequently we find various 
grades and styles of Indian dimity- 
some in which the cords are much far- 
ther apart than in others, or sufficient- 
ly spaced to allow the stripe to be 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



249 



printed between the raised cords, and 
others in which the cords are very close 
together, with but two or three ends 
between each cord. (See weave Fig. 1.) 
In printed fabrics of this character, 
where the printed patterns are in the 
form of a stripe, the cords should not 
be too prominent, or, if they must be 
prominent,the printed stripe should be 
of such a design that the outline is of 
an indefinite character, so that if any 
inaccuracy occurs in the printing, that 
is, if the cloth does not run perfect- 
ly straight through the printing ma- 
chine, and the printed stripe interlaces 
too much with the cord,it appears as if 
the printed stripe was promiscuously 
placed on the fabric. The happiest 
patterns are those in which the ends 
are not very prominent and the stripe 
is printed over them at apparently reg- 
ular intervals. Fig. 2 represents the 
drawing-in draft; Fig. 3 the reeding 
plan. 

ANALYSIS OF FABRIC. 
Width of warp in reed, 30i/^ inches; 

aamamoDmnm 

■■DBOBBDaa 

aauDmnamnm 
maamammama 
Dnmomaamam 
uuamammama 
nnBD«nDBOB 

BBaBDBBOBQ 

Fig. 1. 
nDDnnoDDaB 

nDDaDDDDBn 

DDaaaoDBDn 
nnaoDBBnaD 
DDDDBDanna 
nDDBDDnDnn 
DDBDnnaDDa 
BBaanaaDDn 
Fig. 2. 

BBBDDBBBan ' 

DDDBBDDOBB 

Fig. 3. 

width of fabric finished, 29 inches; 
ends per inch finished, 94; 1,300x2 
reed; ends in warp, 2,724. 

Dressing: 1-2 E. white In 1 bed. 
1 E. wliite. 
1 E. white. 
1 E. white. 

4-6 

Take-up of warp during weaving, 8 
per cent; warp yarn, 1-80; filling yarn, 
1-100. Picks per inch, 76. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

Light-weight cotton fabrics, such as 
an Indian dimity, may be woven on any 
light built single box loom. The prin- 
cipal consideration should be given to 
the speed of the loom, as fabrics of 
this class require large production in 
order to amply compensate the manu- 
facturers for making them. High-speed 
Crompton gingham looms would an- 
swer for weaving this class of goods. 
FINISHING. 

The fabric, after it is woven, is 
bleached, then slightly stiffened by 
immersing in a light solution of size. 



The size may be composed of the fol- 
lowing ingredients: flour, wax and gel- 
atine. After the sizing the fabric is 
dried, then slightly sprinkled with 
water,then run through a rotary press, 
after which follows the printing proc- 
ess. The fabric is then again slightly 
pressed in order to take out the 
creases which it contracted during the 
printing; then it is made up into laps 
or rolls. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns that make up Indian 
dimity are made in mills of the third 
division, as given in a previous article. 
The fabric is generally made from Sea 
Island cotton of from 1%-inch to 1%- 
inch staple. The sample under de- 
scription is composed of 1-lOOs filling 
yarn and l-80s warp yarn and for this 
article we will consider both yarns to 
be made from 1%-inch staple, Florida 
Sea Island cotton. Particular care 
should be paid to the mixing of this 
cotton and all bales not up to grade 
and staple should not be used. At the 
mixing bin the good sliver from the 
machines up to the slubber should be 
mixed with the raw stock. Too much 
waste should not be mixed on account 
of making the lap fleece. As this cot- 
ton is of a long staple it is very easy to 
put neps into it, and thus too great a 
speed of the beater of the picker should 
not be allowed. The beater should be 
run just fast enough to take out the 
dirt. This speed varies, on different 
stocks of the same length of staple, 
from 800 to 1,350 revolutions per min- 
ute. A good average speed of a two- 
bladed rigid type of beater for the 
breaker is 1,200 revolutions per min- 
ute, and for the finisher, 1,025 revolu- 
tions per minute. This latter speed 
gives the cotton passing through it 
about 29 beats or blows per inch. Sea 
Island cotton is generally put through 
only two processes of pickers and 
sometimes does not even pass through 
an opener, although this is an excep- 
tion rather than a rule. At the break- 
er picker the lap at the front end weighs 
30 pounds or a 12-ounce lap. These 
are put up and doubled 4 into 1 at the 
finisher picker, and the total weight 
of lap at this machine is 29% pounds, 
or a 10-ounce lap. A variation of one- 
half pound either side of standard 
weight is allowed. These laps are put 
up at the card. The 

DRAFT OF THIS MACHINE 
for this stock varies according to the 
idea of the one in charge, but should 
not be less than 125. The top flats 
should be clothed with No. 36s wire 



250 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



and should make one complete revolu- 
tion every 35 minutes. The speed of 
the licker-in should be less than that 
used for shorter and coarser cottons 
and should not exceed 300 revolutions 
per minute, as it is claimed that this 
speed is high enough to tear it apart 
and clean it thoroughly and still not 
put neps into it. The doffer should be 
of as large a diameter as possible and 
should be clothed with No. 36s wire 
.fillet. The cylinder fillet should be 
No. 34s. The weight of the sliver 
should be about 37 grains and the 
production, per week of 60 hours, 350 
pounds. Clean, strip, and grind cards, 
as has been already stated in previous 
articles. The sliver is then taken to 
the sliver lap machine and for an 8%- 
inch lap is doubled 14 into 1. The 
weight of the sliver at the front of this 
machine is 230 grains per yard of lap. 
Watch your stop-motions on this 
machine. The laps are put up at the 
ribbon lap machine and doubled 6 into 
1, although some mills make a heavier 
lap at the sliver lap machine, and only 
•double 5 into 1 at the ribbon lap ma- 
chine. The weight per yard of lap at 
the front of this machine is 210 grains. 
The rolls of the sliver lap machine for 
this stock are set as follows: Front to 
middle, 1% inches; middle to back, 2 
inches and for the ribbon lap, front to 
second, 1% inches; second to third, 
1% inches; third to back, 2 inches. The 
laps are put up at the comber and 
doubled either 6 or 8 into 1, according 
to the number of heads that the comb- 
er contains, which we will consider to 
be 6. The sliver from this machine 
weighs 35 grains per yard; 25 per cent 
waste is taken out and the speed of the 
machine is 90 nips per minute. Use 
setting and timing previously given 
for this grade of stock. The cotton is 
next put through two processes of 

DRAWING FRAMES, 

the speed of the front roll being 350 
revolutions per minute, and the weight 
of the sliver at the finisher drawing be- 
ing 60 grains per yard. It is an im- 
portant point to prevent all singles and 
doubles at this machine and to help 
make perfect drawing all stop-motions 
should be in perfect condition. An- 
other important part to watch is the 
setting of the rolls. For this stock a 
good rule is as follows: Front to sec- 
ond, 1% inches; second to third, 1% 
inches; third to back, 2 inches. These 
settings may be used at both drawings, 
altjiough if settings are closed up 
1-3,6. of an inch between each roll at 
the. finisher drawing it will not injure 
the staple. 



The top leather rolls of the sliver 
lap, ribbon lap, comber, and drawing 
frames should be kept in perfect condi- 
tion and always well varnished. A 
stock of new and newly varnished 
rolls should always be kept on hand 
and the rolls on the machine examined 
frequently to see that they are perfect. 
Good recipes for varnish have been 
previously given. A part of the ma- 
chines which it is not a general cus- 
tom to give much notice to is the clear- 
ers. Now this is an important part and 
they should be looked after carefully 
to see that they are doing their duty 
properly. This refers to both top and 
bottom clearers on all machines on 
which they are used. 

At the slubber the drawing is made 
into .80 hank roving. At this machine 
watch the top rolls, the build of the 
bobbin, the lay, twist, tension and 
traverse motion. For this stock the 
front rolls are generally varnished and 
if it is in a mill made to run this 
length of stock the top and bottom 
front rolls are of a larger diameter so 
that the stock will not lick up so 
easily. The roller settings for the 
slubber are as follows: front to middle, 
1 11-16 inches; middle to back, 1% 
inches. 

THE SLUBBER ROVING 

is then put throxigh three more proc- 
esses of fly frames, the hank roving 
made at each process being as follows: 
First intermediate, 2.25; second, 5, and 
fine, 18 hank for warp yarn and 20 
hank for filling yarn. The warp yarn 
is ring spun on a frame having a 1%- 
inch diameter ring, 5% -inch traverse, 
39.08 twist per inch and a spindle 
speed of 9,600 revolutions per minute. 
The yarn is then spooled and warped 
and then run through a slasher, after 
which it is drawn in and is then ready 
to weave. A good slasher size for this 
yarn is as follows: Water, 100 gallons; 
potato starch, 70 pounds; tallow, 7 
pounds; Yorkshire gum, 3 pounds; 
white soap, 2 pounds. Boil two hours 
and let stand 10 hours before using. 
Keep agitator running and keep size 
almost at a boiling point when sizing,,. 
The yarn for filling is generally mule 
spun, after which it is conditioned and 
then is ready for weaving. 



Colors for Printing. 

PALE VIOLET. 

Prepare ten gallons of printing paste 

with one pound chrome violet M for 

printing; 60 pounds gum solution 1:1; 

two pounds glycerine; 33^4 pounds 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



251 



water. Heat to about 160 degrees F., 
allow to cool, then add 2% pounds 
formic acid 90 yer cent; 1 pound ace- 
Jtate chrome, 32 degrees Tw. 

DEEP VIOLET. 

For 10 gallons paste, 10 pounds 
'Chrome violet M for printing; 50 
pounds starch tragacanth 65:1,000; 34 
pounds water. Heat to about 160 de- 
grees F., allow to cool; add 2i/^ pounds 
formic acid, 90 per cent, 3i/^ pounds 
acetate of chrome, 32 degrees Tw. 

BLUE. 

For 10 gallons paste, 14^^ pounds 
■chrome fast blue F R for printing; S^/^ 
pounds chrome violet M for printing; 
-45 pounds starch tragacanth thickening; 
.12 pounds water; heat to about 160 de- 
grees F.; allow to cool then add three 
pounds hyraldite A, dissolved in 3^ 
pounds water; one pound formalde- 
hyde, 40 per cent; 2y2 pounds formic 
.acid; 15 pounds acetate of chrome; 
•Steam through Mather & Piatt. The 
pieces are then left exposed to the air 
for several hours, passed through a 
weak chrome bath, washed, soaped, 
rinsed and dried. 

SKY BLUE. 

Two and one-half ounces alizarine 
blue S P; 2% pints gum thickening; 1 
quart water; i/^ pint acetate chrome 32 
degrees TW. Print and steam and 
5oap. 

PEA GREEN. 

Two pints alizarine green D G paste; 
'IV2 gallons tragacanth thickening; 1 
gill acetate of chrome 32 degrees Tw.; 
-2 quarts water. Print, steam and soap. 

PINK. 

Four ounces rhodamine 6G; V2 pint 
Tvater; 1% quart tragacanth thicken- 
ing; 14 pint acetic acid, 9 degrees Tw.; 
% pint acetate chrome, 32 degrees Tw. 
Print, steam and soap. 

RED. 

One pound brilliant Rhoduline red 
B D; 1 gill glycerine; 2 pints water; 
1^ pounds acetic acid, 9 degrees Tw.; 
1 gallon gum water, 1:1; 2 pints acetic 
acid tannic acid solution, 1:1. Print, 
:Steam one hour, soap. 

PURPLE. 

Five ounces methyl violet 2 R; 2^^ 
•quarts water; 3 pints acetic acid, 9 
degrees Tw.; 1% gallons gum water 
1:1; 1^^ pints acetic acid, tannic acid 
solution 1:1. Print, steam one hour, 
soap. 



GRENADINE. 



Grenadine is a fine gauzy dress fab- 
ric made with various combinations of 
materials, such as silk and cotton, silk 
and wool, or cotton and wool, and 
some of the cheaper grades are made 
with all cotton yarns. 

The fabric is plain and loosely woven 
and invariably ornamented by stripes, 
sometimes in both warp and filling, 
but usually in the warp only. These 
stripes may be of an ordinary satin or 
uneven sided twill weave. In the bet- 
ter grades of grenadine the ornamen- 
tation is more intricate, that is, the 
figuring is of such a character that it 
requires a special loom, such as a 
lappet or swivel loom. If the figuring 
is to be effected by means of an extra 
tilling, the swivel loom is used. "With 
the use of this loom the figuring is in 
the form of spots or set figures over 
the entire fabric. 

The grenadine of which the analysis 
will follow, is a cotton warp and silk 
filling fabric, ornamented with a zigzag 
warp stripe, effected by the lappet 
attachment to the loom. 

This method of forming stripes on a 
fabric was in use prior to the introduc- 
tion of the swivel loom. The method 
of operation in this class of weaving 
consists of passing an independent set 
of threads through a series of needles 
set in a frame. This frame is situated 
between the reed and shuttle race way 
of the lay. 

This frame is arranged so as to slide 
horizontally to and fro. This sliding 
is regulated by the pattern chain, and 
the needles are lowered at the proper 
time, so as to allow the figuring 
threads to interlace with the ground 
cloth, by passing the filling over the 
figuring threads, thereby binding the 
figuring threads into the ground struc- 
ture of the fabric. The movements of 
the needles may be timed so as to inter- 
weave with the ground cloth at each 
throw of the shuttle or otherwise, as 
may be desired. The figuring threads, 
however, must be on a separate warp 
beam on account of the difference of 
take-up during weaving. 

Diagram, Fig. 1, illustrates the meth- 
od of interlacing the figuring threads 
into the ground structure of the fab- 
ric. 

This fabric, as mentioned above, is 
of an openwork texture. The construc- 
tion, that is, the ends and picks per 



252 



A COTTON FABRIC'S GLOSSARY. 



inch in the ground structure of the fab- 
ric, should be of such a number as to 
make the fabric firm enough to fulfill 
its purposes. As the fabric is used en- 
tirely for dress goods, it is subjected to 
considerable wear. In order to retain 
its characteristic feature, that is, 
transparency or openness of texture, 
the ends and picks per inch should be 
of such a number that in the finished 
fabric the meshes will be no larger 
than the diameter of the yarn used in 
the fabric; otherwise the fabric will 
not wear satisfactorily. 

From the above it will be observed 
that in order to produce a fabric that 



inch finished, 92. Reed, 42x2; take-up> 
of ground warp during weaving, 5 per 
cent; take-up of figuring warp during 
weaving, 12 times the length of fabric 
woven; ground warp, l-60s cotton; fig- 
uring warp, 2-40s mercerized cotton. 

In the drawing-in, the ground warp 
GUIs'- is drawn through the heddles in 
the harness; the figuring warp passes 
over the harness into the eyes of the 
needles, the needles being in front of 
the reed. The figuring warp is not 
drawn through the reed, but is guidedt 
entirely by the needles. 

Filling: 1% dram silk, picks, 90 per 
inch finished. 




Fig. 1. 



is satisfactory in all its aspects, viz., 
appearance, feel or handle and wearing 
qualities, absolute accuracy is required 
in calculating for the construction of 
such a fabric. Grenadine may be wov- 
en in the gray, then dyed any color de- 
sired, or the warp may be dyed in the 
hank and the filling dyed after it is 
woven into the fabric. In the better 
grades these fabrics are usually woven 
with dyed yarns. The prevailing color 
for grenadines is solid black. 
ANALYSIS. 
Width of warp in reed, 30 inches; 
width of fabric finished, 27.5 inches; 
ends per inch in reed, 84; ends per 



Fig. 2 shows ground and figure 
weave. 
Fig. 3 ground warp drawing-in draft. 

LOOMS USED. 
These fabrics are woven on variousf> 
looms, various makes of dobby looms, 
lappet, swivel or jacquard, depending 
entirely on the character of figure to 
be woven. The jacquard loom is used 
when the fabric is to be ornamented by 
large broken plaids, requiring too- 
many ends to be conveniently handled 
on a dobby loom. 

FINISHING. 
The finer grade of grenadine requires 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



253 



very little attention as regards fin- 
ishing. After the fabric comes from 
the loom it is examined for broken 
threads or picks. The finishing is prac- 
tically in the weaving. If the fabric is 
perfect when it comes from the loom, 
it is run through the rotary press, sub- 
jected to a little steaming and slight 
pressure, and then made up into laps 
ready for the consumer. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The counts of yarn used for the 
warp in the sample described above 



500 revolutions per minute; interme- 
diate, 1,400 revolutions per minute, and 
finisher, 1,400 revolutions per minute. 
The 

WEIGHTS OF THE LAP 

for this fabric would be, at the break- 
er, 40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap, inter- 
mediate, 38 pounds or a 12-ounce lap, 
and at the finisher, a 38-pound or a 13- 
ounce lap. For the Sea Island stock 
there would be an opener and two 
processes of pickers, the speed of a 
rigid two-bladed beater being as fol- 
lows: 1,300 revolutions per minute at 




Fig. 2. 



for grenadine are l-60s ground warp 
and 2-4'Os for figuring warp. The sta- 
ple cotton used for the ground warp 
would be about 1% inch for Allen 
or peeler cotton, while that used 
for the figuring warp, which is 
mercerized, would be made from 
a Sea Island cotton, which is 
especially adapted for mercerizing 
purposes, of 1%-inch staple. The 1%- 
inch peeler cotton would be put 
through an opener and three processes 
of pickers, the speed of a two-bladed 
beater being as follows: Breaker, 1,- 



breaker and 1,200 revolutions per min- 
ute at finisher; the weight of the lap 
would be 34 pounds or a 10-ounce lap 
at breaker, and at the finisher a 30- 
pound lap or a lOi/^-ounce lap. For 
general instructions for mixing and 
picking, use those that have been pre- 
viously given. At the card the partic- 
ulars used for the peeler cotton are: 
A draft of not less than 110, with a 
licker-in speed of 300 revolutions per 
minute, flats (110) making one com- 
plete revolution every 35 minutes. 
The speed of the cylinder is 160 revo* 



■254 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



lutions per minute The production 
should be 500 pounds with a 45-grain 
sliver for 60 hours per week. 

FOR SEA ISLAND STOCK 

the draft should not be less than 130. 
The speed of the licker-in is 275 revolu- 
tions per minute, flat 1 revolution in 
35 minutes, the weight of sliver 40 
grains per yard and the production 350 
pounds per week. The wire fillet used 
for both stocks should be 34s for cylin- 
der and 36s for top flats and doffer. Use 



comber sliver is next put through two 
processes of drawing frames, the 
doublings being 8 into 1 at the breaker 
for peeler and 6 into 1 for Sea Island, 
while at the breaker the doubling is 6 
into 1 for both stocks. If metallic 
rolls are used they should be spread 
Vs of an inch farther apart than when 
leather top rolls are used. Watch 
the stop-motions. The weight of the 
drawing sliver at the finisher drawing 
is 75 grains per yard for the peeler 
and 60 grains for the Sea Island stock. 



noannnDBaaaaannBnanananBanDnnanHanDDnaDBDannnaaBnnnnDnnBaDDonnnn 
DDDnnaBDDaDJanBGDDnnaaBDDDnaaDBJDaaDnnBaaaaDaDBnaannaaBDDnqDDDpD 
DnaDDHnnnDDaaBDnDnGDnBnnDnDDDBODnaDnnBnnnoaDQBannanDnBaanDnDDDng 
nDDnBnaDDnDDBDnDDnnDBaaDnaDDBDDnaaanBDnDnnnaBaDaaanaBDDDDgDaDDnn 
□aDBnaDDDDnBnannnnDBDriDCinanBaDnanDiBnnaDnaaBuaaDaoaBnDaunnDBnDnn 
□nBaaQannnBaDDDnnDBnDonDGCiBaDDDaaaBanbnDDDiaannamBnQDnnDnBnnDDa 
nBDDnGnnnBaanoanaBanDaDDDBnnnGDaGBncnannDBaaaaaaaBnangnggBnnnnan 
BDDnnoanBanaananBGDnnDaaBnoGnGDDBDDDDanaBDnnaGaDBnDDnDDaBnDDanDD 

Fig. 3. 



as large a doffer as possible. The set- 
ting points have been given pre- 
viously for these stocks. Strip three 
times a day and grind each card at 
least a day every month. Both the 
Sea Island and the peeler cottons for 
this class of goods are combed and for 
this article we will suppose that an 
8% -inch lap is use. For 

THE PEELER STOCK 
the ends are doubled 14 into 1 at the 
sliver lap machine or, as it is some- 
times called, the small doubler, the 
weight per yard of the lap being 300 
grains, and at the ribbon lap or large 
doubler these laps are doubled 6 in- 
to 1, the weight of the lap being 280 
grains per yard. These laps are put 
up at the comber and doubled 6 into 
1. The percentage of waste taken out 
is 16 and the weight of the sliver is 
45 grains per yard. Use settings and 
timings previously given. For the 
Sea Island stock the weight at the 
sliver lap is 220 grains per yard and 
these laps are doubled 6 into 1 at the 
ribbon lap machine, the weight of the 
lap being 215 grains per yard. At the 
comber the doublings are 6 into 1 and 
the weight of sliver is 35 grains per 
yard; 20 per cent of waste is taken 
out and the settings and timings used 
are tlhe same as those given in the ar- 
ticle on Indian dimity. 
VARNISH. 
Do not use the same varnish for the 
sliver lap, ribbon lap and draw box 
rolls and the leather detaching rolls of 
the comber. For the latter use a varnish 
that has less glue and a dead finish, 
while for the former rolls use a roll 
with a smooth, glossy finish, but use 
a varnish that does not peal or crack 
easily. Always keep rolls well var- 
nished and in good condition. The 



AT THE SLUBBER 
the sliver for 60s yarn is made up into 
.50 hank roving, after which it passes 
through three processes of fly frames 
or speeders, being made into the fol- 
lowing hank roving at each process: 
1st intermediate, 1 hank; 2d interme- 
diate, 3 hank and fine frame, 12 hank. 
The Sea Island stock is made into .70 
hank at the slubber and passes 




Fig. 4. 

through two processes of fly frames, 
where it is made into 2.25 hank roving 
at 1st intermediate and 8 hank at 
finisher frame. Use all the precau- 
tions given in previous lessons as to 
rolls, etc., and remember that the Sea 
Island stock 

REQUIRES LESS TWIST 
per inch than the peeler. The peeler 
cotton is made into 60s hank on a 
warp spinning frame, the particulars 
of which have been given in a pre- 
vious article, while the Sea Island is 



A COTTON FABRIC'S GLOSSARY. 



made in 40s yarn on a warp frame 
having a li^-inch diameter ring with 
a 6-inch traverse and a spindle speed 
of 10,000 revolutions per minute; this 
is then twisted and put through 
the mercerizing process, after which it 
is ready for use. 

A good slasher sizing for 60s yarn 
for light-weight cloth is as follows: 
Water, 100 gallons; potato starch, 54 
pounds; Yorkshire gum, 2 pounds, and 
white soap, 1% pounds. 

Dyeing Particulars. 

Dyed in jig machine. 
BLACK. 

8 per cent thion black T G C; 8 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent salt. 
BLUB. 

6 per cent thion blue B; 10 per cent 
sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda ash; 
20 per cent salt. 

Dye and rinse well. Aftertreat with 
2 per cent peroxide sodium; 8 per 
cent sulphate magnesia; 8 per cent 
acetic acid, 8 degrees Be. Dissolve 
the sulphate of magnesia first, then 
put in the peroxide of sodium in small 
quantities, and enter the goods; work 
for 20 minutes first; then run the ace- 
tic acid into the bath, and gradually 
increase the heat to about 180 degrees 
F. 

BROWN. 

4 per cent thion brown R; 4 per cent 
thion brown O; 2 per cent thion 
orange N; 12 per cent sulphide so- 
dium; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent 
salt. 



BRILLIANTE, 



Brilliante is a cotton fabric of light 
or medium weight, distinguished by 
small, detached figures, usually of geo- 
metrical or simple character, arranged 
on a plain ground. The figures are 
formed with the filling, which is soft 
twisted. 

The object sought is to cover the 
warp with the filling as much as pos- 
sible, both in the ground and figure. 
It is obtained by using warp yarns con- 
siderably finer than those used for the 
filling in the same piece, aided by the 
slack twist in the filling. 

The goods are used principally for 
shirtwaists and dress goods. 

Fig. 1 illustrates a typical brilliante 



fabric, the analysis of which shows the 
following data: 88 sley, 66 picks, 50s 
warp, 30s filling; finished width, 26% 
inches. The pattern is complete on 
100 ends and 84 picks. The figures are 
arranged in irregular positions, 8 in a 
repeat. 

One of the figures is illustrated in 
Fig. 2; marks represent filling. 

Like many other cotton fabrics.goods 
under this name are made in various 



Fig. 1. 

grades, variations in the counts of 
yarns necessitating corresponding 
variations in the counts of cloth. 
A fabric under consideration, shown 
in Fig. 3, has a filling so coarse, 
as compared with the warp, that it has 
the appearance of a poplin ground. 
This is a dobby pattern, the spots be- 
ing arranged in a 4-end sateen or brok- 
en crow order. Each spot is made by 
the filling covering nine ends on two 
picks, as in Fig. 4. The float of the 

naocjDDnBnnDnnonannnDDn 
nannDaBBBaaDDDannDDL dd 
aaaaommmmmnanaaacDacnu 
naaamammummaoaDDoaDDaa 
aaaaamnmammuaaDDacncaa 
□aHa::iBaBaaHDDDL odccd 
DaaaHBOHBaaBaBDDDarcDa 
■■aBBaaaaaBaBBBDGDDDcn 
aaaaBBBflaBBBBBBBDDDacn 
aaaaaaaBB laaBaaGDcaDDa 
aaaaaaaBBBaBBBDnDDnDDD 

naaaBBBBBBBDBDDDPDCaCD 

aaDnaaBBBBBBDDnBBBDncn 
DGnaaoBBaBBDDnaBBBBDcn 

DGDaaaDBBBanDBBBBBBBrn 
nannaDDGBlUGDBBBBBBBBBn 

nnDnnDDan dbbbbbbbbjbb 

DDanDDDDanDaBBBBBBBJBn 

nnDaanannnnDDBBBBBBBDn 
nnDnnDaannDDnDBBBBBDDn 
nnDDDnDDDGnDDnnBBBDrDn 
GGDancnaaGaaaauDBGccGG 

Fig. 2. 

second pick of each alternate spot is 
moved over two ends. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 
Most brilliante patterns necessitate 
the use of a jacquard head. A machine 
of 300 or 400 hooks gives ample scope 
for designs. The goods being of firm 
structure, with all the ends taking up 



256 



A COTTON B^ABRICS GLOSSARY. 



practically evenly, they could be wov- 
en most economically on a light run- 
ning single box loom fitted with a 
double lift, single cylinder jacquard. 
One warp and one filling only are re- 
qiiired. 

There being but little scope for de- 
veloping other than small designs of 
this type, on dobby looms, they are 
made to but little extent on these 
looms. Experience has taught that 




Fig. 3. 

patterns like Fig. 3 require too many 
harnesses on a dobby loom for weav- 
ing plain to the best advantage. 
FINISHING. 

These goods are usually subjected to 
the English or French nainsook finish- 
es, mercerized or printed. By the 
English finish the fabric, after it 
leaves the loom, is boiled ofE, then 
bleached, after which it is softened by 
immersing in a light solution of glyc- 
erine, or cocoanut oil, and flour or 
farina, after which it is dried by pass- 
ing over heated cylinders, then run 
through a rotary press with very light 
pressure. In the French finish, after 
the fabric is bleached it is stiffened by 
immersing in a solution of size, com- 
posed of the following ingredients: 
flour, wax and gelatine, after which the 
fabric is dried, then slightly sprinkled 
with water, then run through the cal- 
ender, which completes the finishing 
process. 

The fabric illustrated in Fig. 1. has 
undergone the mercerizing process of 
finishing, having been mercerized in 
the piece. Brilliante is a type of goods 
in which the essential qualities of the 
pattern are improved by the mercer- 
izing process. 

When they are printed, the printed 
patterns are secondary to the weave 
effects and usually consist of small 
detached sprig or floral effects ar- 
ranged a great distance apart. 



and third divisions as given in a pre- 
vious lesson. The yarns used in the 
sample under consideration are 50s for 
warp and 30s for filling. Both of these 
yarns are combed and made from the 
same grade and staple of cotton. The 
filling is coarser and according to es- 
tablished rules should be made of a 
shorter length of staple, and this would 
be true if it were not for the fact that 
in order to produce certain effects in the 
cloth this yarn is required to have a 
softer twist than that generally em- 
ployed for this count of yarn. The cot- 
ton used may be a peeler of 1%-inch 
staple. 

THE MIXING 
would be done as described in previous 
articles, the good sliver waste from the 
machines up to the slubber being 
thrown into the mixing bin. If the 
equipment of machinery does not in- 
clude a roving waste machine, a good 
way to mix the roving waste is as fol- 
lows: Run the roving waste through 
a picker, allowing il to run on the floor 
at the front, and not formed into a lap 
as is generally done; this is then 
gathered up and scattered over the mix- 
ing. This is a very good method, but 
is not generally used on account of the 
pickers having all they can do to keep 
up with the cards. This class of work 
is put through an opener and three 
processes of pickers. The pickers, if 
supplied with a rigid type of beater 
having two blades, have the following 

SPEEDS 
at each process: Breaker picker, 1,500 
revolutions per minute; the fan speed 
1,400 revolutions per minute; interme- 
diate picker, 1.450 revolutions per min- 
ute; fan speed, 1,050 revolutions per 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns of which brilliante is com- 
posed ai'e made in mills of the second 



Fig. 4. 

minute; finisher picker, 1,450 revolu- 
tions per minute; fan speed, 1,100 revo- 
lutions per minute. The weights of the 
lap at the different processes are as 
follows, the doubling at each process 
after the breaker picker being 4 into 1: 
breaker picker, total weight, 40 
pounds; weight per yard, 16 ounces; in- 
termediate picker, 39 pounds or a 12- 
ounce lap, and finisher picker, 36 
pounds or a 12i/^-ounce lap. Of course 
the laps should be kept of as even a 
weight as possible, a variation of only 
8 ounces either side of the standard 
weight being allowed at the finisher 
picker. These laps are put up 

AT THE CARD 
and for this fabric the draft should 



A COTTON FABRiIOS GLOSSARY. 



257 



Tiot be less than 110. The licker-in 
speed should he 300 revolutions per 
minute. Flats should make one com- 
plete revolution every 38 or 40 min- 
utes. The weight per yard of the sliver 
at front is 50 grains per yard and pro- 
duction for a week of 60 hours is 550 
pounds. Set doffer to cylinder to a 
o-l,000th-inch gauge; licker-in to cylin- 
der to a 7-l,000th-inch gauge. Set cylin- 
der screen at licker-in to 12 gauge, at 
centre to a 34 gauge, and at front, i^, 
inch. 

Set back plate to cylinder at 10 gauge 
at bottom and at 22 at top; licker-in 
screen to licker-in, 3-16ths inch from 
licker-in. Set licker-in knives, top 
Itnife at 12 gauge, bottom knife at 5 
gauge; if only one knife, set at 5 
gauge. Set feed plate to cylinder ac- 
■cording to length of staple. This is 

AN IMPORTANT POINT 
many times overlooked by men in 
charge. The general rule is to set 
at this point the same for all lengths of 
staple. This is wrong, because in short- 
staple cotton the feed plate should be 
set closer than for long stock. For ex- 
ample, suppose the feed plate is set 
to licker-in at 7 gauge for 1%-inch 
stock and we will say that this gives 
the distance from bite of feed roll to 
licker-in 1% inches. Now we change 
to 1 34-inch Sea Island stock. If we do 
f not reset the feed plate we are almost 
sure to break the fibre, and if the cot- 
ton is stapled at the front of card and 
compared with the staple at the back, 
it will be seen that this is what is be- 
ing done. Of course the proper remedy 
for this is to get a feed plate with the 
proper shaped nose for each length of 
staple, but it is not always possible 
to do so; the 

NEXT BEST REMEDY 
is to set the feed plate farther back or 
to slow down the speed of your licker- 
in, so that the fibres will not be struck 
away from the feed roll so quickly. 
If the setting at this' point is the same 
for all staples and gives a variation 
of i/^-inch length in staple at front and 
back, note result. If the staple breaks, 
it is weakened so much. Set top flats 
to 12 gauge at back and to 10 gauge at 
other setting points. Set front strip- 
ping plate to 22 gauge at bottom and at 
top set from a 7 to a 12 gauge, accord- 
ing to the strip wante'd. 

At the sliver lap machine the doub- 
lings are 14 into 1 for an 8%-inch lap, 
the weight of a yard of lap being 295 
grains. These are doubled 6 into 1 at 
ribbon lap, the weight being 275 grains 
per yard. At the comber these laps 



are doubled either six or eight into 
one according to the number of heads. 
For a 6-head comber the sliver at coil- 
er should weigh 45 grains per yard; 
speed of comber, 90 nips per minute; 
percentage of waste, 15; and draft 
about 27.50. Use same setting and 
timing as given in previous articles. 
At 

THE DRAWING FRAME 
two processes are used, the doublings 
being 6 into 1 at each process. The 
speed of front roll at each process 
should be 400 revolutions per minute, 
and the weight of the sliver at the 
finisher drawing should be 70 grains 
per yard. At the slubber this is made 
into .60 hank roving and is put through 
two processes of fly frames, the hank 
roving at each process for the 50s warp 
being 2.50 at first intermediate, and 10 
hank at second process. For the 30s 
the hank roving at the first intermedi- 
ate is 2 and at the second process 6 
hank. Look out for the points that 
have been explained in previous arti- 
cles. At the spinning room the rov- 
ing for warp yarn is spun into 50s un- 
der the following conditions: diameter 
of ring, iy2 inches; length of traverse, 
6 inches; twist per inch, 31.80; spin- 
dle speed, 10,000 revolutions per min- 
ute. The filling yarn is mule spun, 
with 2.75 times the square root of 
count for standard twist. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

NAVY BLUE. 
Four per cent naphtamine blue 2 B; 
25 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal 
soda. 

PINK. 
One-half per cent Erika pink G; 20 
per cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal soda. 

SKY BLUE. 
One-half per cent diamine sky blue 
F F; 10 per cent Glauber's; 1 per cent 
sal soda. 

PEA GREEN. 
One per cent diamine sky blue; V2 
per cent chrysophenine; 20 per cent 
Glauber's; 1 per cent sal soda. 

ECRU. 
One-half ounce naphtamine brown 
N; lYz ounces naphtamine yellow N N; 
10 pounds salt; 1 per cent sal soda. 

YELLOW. 
One per cent direct yellow G cone; 20 
per cent salt; 1 per cent sal soda. 

RED. 
Three and one-half per cent direct 



258 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



scarlet B cone; 25 per cent salt; 2 per 
cent sal soda. 

BROWN. 

Four per cent naphtamine brown R 

G; 30 per cent salt; 2 per cent sal soda. 

GREEN. 

Four per cent diamine green G; % 

per cent diamine fast yellow B; 25 

per cent salt; 3 per cent sal soda. 



BOOK MUSLIN. 

Book muslin is a textile term that is 
somewhat of a misnomer, not having 
any connection with fabrics used for 
book coverings. The goods are used 
very extensively for stiffening and 
lining clothing and for the foundation 
work of ladies' hats; they are distin- 
guished more by the feel or finish than 
by appearance. They vary in appear- 
ance from plain weave to small checks. 
Being made more for utility than ef- 
fect, fancy weaves are not called for or 

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DHDaaaaaaaaDHBaa 
aaaaDDDaaaaaaaaa 
aaiaaaaaaaGaDDOD 
aaGaaDDDaDaaaaaa 
aaaaaaaaaaaaaDDD 
DaDaaDDDaaaaaaaa 
BDaaaaaaaaoaaDDn 

Fig.l. 

Fig. 2. 

DaDaDDDDaaanaaaa 
aaaDaaaaDanaDDDD 

Fis.3. 

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Fig. 4 

necessary. One of the principal weaves 
used is a leno, one end crossing one. 

An analysis of a book muslin sam- 
ple shows the following data: Finished 
width, 32 inches; 24s yarn in both 
warp and filling, 54 ends and 45 picks 
per inch. 

The weave is shown in Fig. 1, being 
on 16 ends and S picks. The general 
effect is shown by 8 ends and 8 picks, 
the next 8 ends differing only in the 
plain weave being reversed. Fig. 2 
shows the harness draft and Fig. 3, 
the reed draft. The warp yarns aver- 
age 8 ends in 5 dents, there being 16 
ends in 10 dents per pattern. The 4 
ends working as 1 are drawn through 
one heddle. The chain draft is shown 
at Fig. 4, the working of the first 
two, or selvedge, harnesses being 
plain. 



Stop pegs are not required, the S"- 
picks in 1 shed coming into contact 
with each other. 

Another book muslin fabric under 
consideration contains the same 
counts of yarns as the other sample. 
The count of this cloth is 43x38, and 
the width 35 inches finished. The 
weave is plain. 

Book muslins are usually woven. 
white and piece dyed in solid colors. 
LOOM REQUIRED. 

Any of the three classes of weaves 
mentioned may be woven on single 
box, fast, light running looms. The 
sample analyzed would require a dob- 
by loom. The leno and plain weave 
samples could be woven best on cam 
looms. One beam only is required. 
FINISHING. 

Before finishing, the goods feel very 
sleazy. The effect obtained by finish- 
ing is to change this cloth into a very 
stiff, board-like fabric. Goods for lin- 
ings are sized the least; those for stif- 
fening and millinery purposes are sized 
heavily. 

After being woven, the cloth is 
washed, dyed, dried, sized, dried and 
folded as desired. No burling, singeing 
or shearing is required, as perfect 
cloth is not absolutely essential aijd 
the glue or size, combined with the 
pressing, lays the loose fibres. 

In sizing, the cloth passes through 
the size box and on to the drying cyl- 
inders. If a glazed finish is required, 
it is subjected to pressure by the heat- 
ed rollers of the calender machine. 

The sizing substances are usually 
glue, gum, flour and size, of variable 
proportions, mixed with water to the 
desired consistency. The weight of 
size in a piece will vary from about 
5 per cent to 40 per cent of the entire 
weight. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns that make up book mus- 
lin are made in mills of the first and 
second divisions. For this class of fab- 
ric a short-staple medium grade of 
cotton is used. The general staple is 
about one inch. In the better quali- 
ties of this fabric only the raw stock 
is used in the mixture, but the poorer 
qualities contain a certain percentage 
of waste, either comber or card being 
used according to the quality required. 
For this article we will consider that 
the mixture is made up without waste. 

THE MIXING 
for this class of cotton should be as 
large as possible because production 
is looked to more than quality, but the 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



259 



quality should be as good as possible. 
The cotton is put through an opener 
and three processes of pickers. The 
speed of the beater of the opener 
should be 1,050 revolutions per minute, 
the fan on this machine making 350 
revolutions per minute. This opener 
is generally directly connected to the 
breaker picker. This picker may be 
provided with either a pin, or, as it is 
sometimes called, a carding beater, or 
a rigid type having either two or three 
blades. If a two-bladed rigid beater, 
the speed should be 1,500 revolutions 
per minute; if a three-bladed beater, 
the speed should be reduced to 1,000 
revolutions per minute. The fan speed 
should be 1,400 revolutions per minute. 
The draft of this picker should be 
about 1.85. The 

WEIGHT OF THE LAP 
at the front should be, total, 40 
pounds; weight per yard, 16 ounces. 
These laps are put up and doubled 4 
into 1 at the intermediate picker. The 
beater of this picker, if a two-bladed 
rigid type, makes 1,450 revolutions per 
minute with a fan speed of 1,050 revo- 
lutions per minute and a draft of 2.80. 
The total weight of lap at the front is 
38 pounds or a 10-ounce lap. These 
laps are put up at the finisher picker 
and doubled 4 into 1. The speed of 
this beater, if two bladed, should be 
1,450 revolutions per minute; fan 
speed, 1,100 revolutions per minute; 
draft, 2.80; weight of laps at front, 39 
pounds or a 14%-ounce lap. The 
stock passing through this machine 
with these speeds receives about 41 
blows or beats per inch. At the card 
the speed of the licker-in varies from 
300 to 350 revolutions per minute, ac- 
cording to make of card. The speed 
of flats is 1 revolution every 45 min- 
utes (110 flats). 

THE CARDS 
should be stripped at least three 
times a day and the doffer should be 
stripped an extra time if a very large 
production is being turned off. Use a 
coarse wire fillet for both doffer and 
cylinder for cards on this stock, and 
use settings given for indi- 
go prints in a previous article. The 
draft of the card should not ex- 
ceed 100 for this' class of goods. The 
weight of the sliver should be 65 
grains per yard and the production 
850 pounds for a week of 60 hours. 
Grind cards as previously stated. The 
card sliver is next put through two 
processes of drawing, the doublings 
being 6 into 1 at each process. The 
speed of the front roll is 400 revolu- 
tions per minute for leather top rolls 



and 375 for metallic top rolls. Metal- 
lic top rolls will be found to be 

AN ADVANTAGE 
on this class of stock, but should be 
looked after to see that they are prop- 
erly set. Generally speaking, metallic 
rolls should be set 3-16ths of an inch 
farther apart than leather top covered 
rolls. If metallic rolls are used, care 
should be taken to see that they are 
the same distance apart their entire 
length, because if they have sprung, 
cut work will be the result. The flutes 
of these rolls should be kept clean and 
the bearings well oiled and clean or 
bad results will be obtained. The 
weight of the sliver at the front of 
both breaker and finisher drawings 
should be 72 grains per yard. Draw- 
ings should be sized four times a day. 
The drawing should be put up to the 
slubber and made into .50 hank roving 
and put through two processes of 

FLY FRAMES. 
At the first intermediate it is made 
into 2 hank roving and at the second 
5 hank. Of course these hank rovings 
will depend a great deal on the way a 
room is balanced and the amount of 
production to be turned off. Some- 
times two different stocks of the same 
length of staple will be run together 
at the slubber and first intermediate 
frames that are going to be made 
into two different counts of yarn. This 
is often done in rooms where there are 
not enousrh frames to have each frame 
run a different stock, so that it may be 
necessary to alter the draft and hank 
roving of one or both stocks to the best 
advantage of each. Thus it will be 
seen that the hanks and drafts given 
here may be used as a foundation from 
which to work, and used if each ma- 
chine is using this one staple, and 
grade and kind of cotton. The roving 
is taken to the spinning frame and 
made into 24s yarn. At the warp 
frame use a 2-inch diameter ring, 7- 
inch traverse, 23.27 twist per inch and 
9,400 revolutions per minute spindle 
speed. For a filling frame use 1%- 
inch diameter ring, 6i^-inch traverse, 
15.9 twist per inch and a spindle 
speed of 7,600 revolutions per minute. 
A heavy sizing is used for this class 
of goods. 



Dyeing Particulars. 
Dyed on the jig machine. 

BLACK. 
Five per cent oxydiamine black A T; 
per cent sal soda; 20 per cent salt. 

BROWN. 
Five per cent diamine brown B; 1 



2G0 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



per cent diamine fast yellow B; 2 per 
cent sal soda; 23 per cent salt. 
SLATE. 
One and one-half per cent diamine 
black B H; 2 ounces diamine fast yel- 
low B; 2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent 
salt; make up a starch liquor with 10 
ounces dextrine; 1 gallon water; mix 
cold. Add a little color to match shade 
required, and boil well for one hour. 
Starch on mangle and dry on the ten- 
ter frame. 



MULL. 



Mull may be defined as a thin, plain 
woven fabric, of which there are sev- 
eral varieties, as Swiss, India, starched, 
China or silk. The China or silk mull 
is a union fabric, usually with cotton 
warp and silk filling. This is the 
finest fabric of the above-mentioned 
varieties and is used exclusively for 
dress goods. 

The Swiss and India mulls are fine, 
soft-bleached cotton fabrics, principal- 
ly used for dress goods. 

THE STARCHED MULL 
is somewhat coarser than the Swiss 
or India mull and is used principal- 



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DDDDDBDn 
DDDDBDDa 
DDaBDDDD 
□DBOODDD 

amaaaaaa 

■DDDDDDD 



□■DBDBaB 


■DB mama 


aBaaanna 


BOBDaaBD 


DBaBaBDB 


BaBDHQaa 


DaaaDBoa 


aaaGBDaa 


Fig. 1. 


Design. 



Fig. 2. 
Draft. 



ly for stiffening in various parts of 
a' dress, usually dresses of unwashable 
material, and is also used as a founda- 
tion for ladies' silk trimmed hats, cur- 
tains, etc. Starched mull is a plain, 
loosely woven fabric and is stiffened 
in the finishing process by sizing. 

These various qualities of mull dif- 
fer in point of texture considerably 
from one another; the silk mull is in 
point of texture twice as fine as some 
grades of cotton mull. 

The China or silk mull and also the 
cotton mull used for dress purposes 
are characterized by their 

SOFTNESS. 
This feature is partially brought about 
by the materials used and partially by 
the finish which the fabric receives. 
The silk mull requires less attention 
in finishing, as the materials used in 
the construction of the fabric, the silk 
filling in particular, and the high 



grade of the cotton warp, are in them- 
selves conducive to pi'oducing a soft 
fabric. 

In the cheaper grades of cotton mull, 
wherein the coarser counts of yarn 
are used, the warp yarn must first be 
well sized so as to withstand the ten- 
sion and strain incurred during the 
process of weaving. This sizing, 
while it strengthens the warp yarn, 
imparts to the fabric a harsh handle 
or feel, due to the ingredients used in 
the size, which may be wheat, flour, 
farina or sago and a small quantity of 
softening materials, usually tallow or 
wax. The softening materials are 
necessary in order to make the yarn 
pliable; otherwise it would be inclined 
to be too brittle to weave readily. Af- 
ter the fabric is woven and ready for 
the finisher it is subjected to a 
WASHING PROCESS, 
which takes out all the sizing mate- 
rials in the warp yarn, after which the 
fabric is subjected to a combination of 
sizing materials for the sole purpose 
of softening the fabric. The above 
process applies more particularly to 
the all-cotton fabrics. 

This class of fabrics — mull — requires 
very little ingenuity on the part of 
the designer to produce, there being no 
ornamental features or fancy weaves. 
The goods are plain woven, depending 
for their beauty or attractiveness en- 
tirely on the finishing. Mull made for 
dress goods is of fine texture, and is 
finished very soft, while the fabric in- 
tended for lining or decorative pur- 
poses is much coarser in texture than 
the dress fabric, and is stiffened in the 
finishing and commonly known as 
starched mull. 

The goods are usuaJlly 

WOVEN IN THE GRAY 
and the bulk of them are finished pure 
white or bleached, although these fab- 
rics may be obtained in almost any 
color desired. 

The China or silk mull is usually, 
like the all-cotton fabric, finished un- 
dyed. In the former case, however, 
the cotton yarn is bleached in the 
hank. The silk filling used in this fab- 
ric is raw silk, viz., tram silk. This is 
soft and very pliable and lends itself 
readily to the production of a soft fab- 
ric. The filaments of raw silk cannot 
be spun into a thread like wool and 
cotton, as they have no peculiarities of 
surface that correspond to the scales 
on the surface of the wool fibres; the 
wool fibres, when spun into a thread, 
are arranged so that these scales are 
opposed to one another as much as pos- 
sible and thereby interlock and hold 



A OOTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



261 



fast to one another, and the more the 
threads are spun, the closer they 
engage one another and in conse- 
quence produce a stronger thread. The 
peculiarities of the cotton fibre are its 
tvv'ists. The cotton fibre under the mi- 
croscope appears as a thin flat tube or 
ribbon, considerably twisted; these 
twists in the fibres give strength to 
the thread by interlacing with one an- 
other somewhat on the order of the 
scales in the woolen threads. In silk, 
however, the filaments can only be 
made into a thread by twisting a num- 
ber of the filaments into fine threads, 
and these threads are again twisted un- 
til a thread of the desired count is ob- 
tained. Following is an 
ANALYSIS 
of a cotton and silk fabric: 

Width of warp in reed, 2Si/^ inches; 
width of fabric finished, 27 inches; 
ends per inch in reed, 76; ends per inch 
finished, SO; ends in warp including 
selvedges, 2,200; reed, 1,400x2; warp 
yarn, l-60s cotton. 

Filling, one dram silk, tram; 54 
picks. 
ANALYSIS OF STARCHED MULL. 

Width of warp in reed, 33% inches; 
width of fabric finished, 30 inches; 
ends per inch in reed, 36; ends per 
inch finished, 40; ends in warp includ- 
ing selvedge, 1,220; reed, 1,300x1; warp 
l-50s cotton. 

Filling, l-54s cotton; 36 picks. 
LOOM REQUIRED. 

Any ordinary single box loom may 
be used for weaving this fabric. The 
speed of the loom is the most impor- 
tant consideration if the selection of 
loom be optional; the finer grades of 
mull are usually woven on eight har- 
nesses, straight draft, while the coars- 
er grades are confined to four har- 
nesses, drawn in the following order: 
1, 3, 2, 4. 

FINISHING. 

Mull made for dress goods is of a 
very fine texture and softened in the 
finishing. This is accomplished by 
immersing the fabric in a solution of 
oily matters, the ingredients being 
composed of a liberal percentage of 
glycerine or cocoanut oil and a very 
small quantity of farina. Chloride of 
magnesium may be used with good re- 
sults. This is a very powerful soft- 
ener, as well as a weighting material, 
and has a great affinity for water, and 
has the power of attracting moisture 
to the cloth in which it is used. This 
attraction of moisture really constitutes 
the softening effect. The above meth- 
od of softening applies in particular to 



all-cotton mull. In the silk filling 
goods the fabric is usually only boiled 
off, then run through a rotary press. 
For stiffening the fabric, the 
goods, after they are bleached, are im- 
mersed in a solution of size composed 
of flour, tallow, and gum arable; this 
stiffening is done in front of the dry- 
ing cylinders, the goods running 
through the sizing trough on to the 
cylinders, which completes the finish- 



Bleaching Particulars. 

Boil with 4 degrees Tw. caustic 
soda in a kier for 12 hours, and run 
through washing machine. 

Give a second boil with 4 degrees 
Tw. caustic soda. 

Wash through machine and run 
through solution of chloride of lime at 
Yz degree Tw. Place in bin for two 
hours. Pass through a solution of sul- 
phuric acid Vz degree Tw. Pass 
through washing machine till all 
trace of acid is eliminated. 



Starching Particulars. 

One gallon: 4 ounces dextrine, 4 
ounces cornstarch. Boil for one hour 
and starch through mangle. 

Dry on the tenter frame. 



LINON. 



Linon, usually termed India linon 
or India linen, is a fine, closely woven 
plain fabric well known for its excel- 
lent wearing and washing qualities. It 
is made from combed cotton yarns of 
long-stapled stock. 

It is made in various widths, from 27 
inches to 36 inches, and in slightly 
varying constructions and qualities. 
The goods are made to resemble as 
closely as possible fine linen fabrics. 
The cloth structure is firmly made in 
the loom. 

The analysis of a good quality India 
linon fabric shows the following data: 
Ends per inch, 108; picks per inch, 
110; finished width, 36 inches; warp, 
90s; filling, 110s. Each selvedge con- 
sists of 16 ends of 2-90s. 

The yarns v/ere reeded 2 ends per 
dent in the loom. The selvedges were 
also reeded 2 ends per dent, i. e., 2-ply 
yarns. Two of these would be equal to 
4 of the single yarns. 

Woven with about 94 ends per inch 
in the loom, it will be seen that a very 



262 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



fine reed has been used. This was nec- 
essary in order that an even surface, 
practically free from reed marks, 
should result. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

The goods may be woven on a single 
box plain loom of not too light con- 
struction. On account of the fairly 
large number of picks per inch and the 
fine quality of cloth, a firm, steady 
take-up motion on the loom is neces- 
sary. 

The ends are drawn in' in the regu- 
ular 1, 3, 2, 4 skip shaft order, on 
twine harnesses. One warp beam only 
is required. Practically all fabrics 
usually woven on cam looms may also 
be woven on dobby looms, if necessary. 

To weave the fabric under consid- 
eration, on a dobby loom, the ends 
should be drawn in straight on at least 
8 harnesses to prevent overcrowding 
of the heddles. 

FINISHING. 

A good finish for these goods is to 
singe, wash, bleach, size or starch with 
a light Indian corn or potato starch, 
the former material being preferable; 
then calender, dry and make up as re- 
quired. A second dampening and cal- 
endering, following the first calender- 
ing, improves the quality of the finish. 
Very little stiffening or starch is used 
because the goods are intended to be 
washed frequently. "When finished, 
the goods have the appearance of a 
smooth linen finished lawn. They are 
slightly glossy. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

. The division of mills that make the 
yarns that India linon is composed 
of is the third. This division of mills, 
as given in a previous article, is the 
one that makes the finest yarns and 
is equipped with machinery suitable 
to do this. India linon is made from 
a good quality of Sea Island cotton of 
about 1% to 1% inch staple. For this 
class of goods it is quality and not 
quantity that is the main considera- 
tion. The cotton is mixed as has been 
described in previous articles, the 
good sliver being mixed in at this 
point, as well as laps that are too light 
and cut sliver waste, if any is made 
at any of the processes. Some over- 
seers put cut sliver through the last 
process again, and let it go at that, 
but the only proper method to remedy 
this kind of work is to put it back in- 
to the mixing. 

FOR THIS FABRIC 
the cotuon is put through two proc- 



esses of pickers, and an opener. The 
opener should be kept as full as possi- 
ble so that as even a feed as possible 
will be obtained. The breaker picker 
is generally equipped with a two- 
bladed rigid type of beater, the speed 
of which is 1,200 revolutions per min- 
ute. Some overseers prefer a pin beat- 
er, but others claim that it puts neps 
into long-staple cotton. This is un- 
doubtedly due to improper setting as 
well as not running it at the proper 
speed. The weight of the lap at the 
front of this picker is 32 pounds or a 
9% -ounce lap. These laps are doubled 
4 into 1 at the finisher picker. This 
picker has a two-bladed beater, whose 
speed is 1,050 revolutions per minute, 
or about 29 beats per minute. The 
speed of this beater should be just 
high enough to get the dirt out of the 
cotton and not injure it. The total 
weight of the lap at the front of the 
picker is 30 pounds or a 9%-ounce lap. 
A variation of 6 ounces either side of 
standard is allowed; if laps weigh out- 
side of this they are either put through 
the finisher picker again or if a great 
deal too light or too heavy they are put 
back into the mixing again. These 
laps are put up at the card. The 
cards used for this stock should be kept 
free of all dirt, etc., and the card fillet 
should be kept sharp and parts proper- 
ly set to each other. The flats should 
make 

ONE COMPLETE REVOLUTION 
every 35 minutes, the licker-in speed 
should not exceed 280 revolutions per 
minute, and the weight of the sliver at 
the front should be 40 grains per yard. 
It is an important point that the cards 
should be kept extra clean. The pro- 
duction of a card for a week of 60 
hours should not exceed 275 pounds. 
The draft should be not less than 130. 
After passing through the cards, the 
sliver is generally put through sliver 
lap, ribbon lap and comber processes. 
At the sliver lap the doublings for an 
8%-inch lap are 14 into 1. The weight 
of a yard of lap at the front of this ma- 
chine is 220 grains. These laps are put 
up at the ribbon lap machine and 
doubled 6 into 1. The weight of a 
yard of sliver at the front of this ma- 
chine is 210 grains. These are put up 
at the comber and doubled 6 into 1 if a 
six-head comber, or 2 into 1, if comb- 
er is an eight-head comber. Set and 
time the comber for this stock the 
same as given in a previous article on 
Sea Island cotton. Keep all parts 
of comber that the cotton comes in 
contact with well polished and free 
from dirt, if more than one end 



A COTTDN FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



203 



Jjreaks on the table the sliver at the 
front should be broken before entering 
the coiler and the broken ends pieced 
up before the sliver is allowed to en- 
ter can. If any single has entered the 
can, it should of course be removed 
and the end properly pieced again; be 
sure and make a good piecing, not one 
that will break back at the succeeding 
process or one that will not draw out. 
The sliver is then put through three 
processes of drawing, the doublings of 
which are all 6 into 1. The weight of 
the drawing at the front of the finish- 
er drawing should be 65 grains per 
yard. For 

THIS CLASS OF WORK 
leather top rolls are generally used. 
These should be kept well oiled and 
varnished and in perfect order. The 
drawings should be sized four times 
a day and the ribbon lap at least once 
a day. Hook out to see that your stop- 
motions are all in perfect order and 
working. Be sure that there are no 
laps on the third bottom steel roll or 
in fact on any roll, as this will tend to 
produce cut sliver as well as throw 
the size out. Keep drawing on heavy 
size of standard weight. This sliver is 
next put up at the slubber and drawn 
into .80 hank roving. The bottom steel 
rolls should be a little larger in diam- 
eter than when used for shorter staple. 
This is in order to prevent licking. 
The clearers on the slubber should be 
picked frequently and not allowed to 
collect until they drop down and pass 
into the work. The hank roving at the 
fly frame is as follows: for filling first 
intermediate, 2.25 hank; second inter- 
mediate, 5 hank; fine, 20 hank; for 
warp yarn,first intermediate,2.25hank; 
second, 5 hank, and fine, 18 hank; for 
the selvedge yarn use the same hank 
roving as for the warp yarn. On this 
grade of stock the slubber rolls should 
be varnished and some overseers var- 
nish the front rolls of their first inter- 
mediate frame. The leather top rolls 
should be 

IN PERFECT CONDITION 
and special care should be given to 
the rail or carriage and the parts that 
operate it to see that they change 
sharply and that there is no dwell at 
the top and bottom of the bobbin, for 
this may cause it to run over or under 
and make a bad bobbin, or if this 
does not happen, it will break back at 
the spinning frame or mule every time 
it gets to the top or bottom of the bob- 
bin, thus causing a lot of trouble, be- 
sides the liability of singles, which 
should be looked out for at all proc- 



esses. Full bobbins should never be 
thrown into the boxes, but should be 
packed. The roving for filling may be 
taken to either the mule or spinning 
room; if the latter, use a frame having 
a 5-inch traverse, l^-inch diameter 
ring and a spindle speed of 7,400 revo- 
lutions per minute. This yarn is then 
conditioned.then it is ready to use. The 
warp yarn is frame spun on a frame 
having a 2%-inch diameter ring; 5-inch 
traverse, and a spindle speed of 9,400 
revolutions per minute. This yarn is 
put through the spooler and warping 
processes and from here to the slasher, 
where sufiicient beams are put up at 
the back to give the required number 
of ends at the front. For this class 
of goods the following size mixture 
may be used: "Water, 100 gallons; pota- 
to starch, 70 pounds; tallow, 7 pounds; 
Yorkshire gum, 3 pounds; white soap, 
2 pounds; boil two hours and let stand 
ten hours. Before using, keep agitator 
running, and keep size at almost boil- 
ing point. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

PINK. 
Two ounces diamine fast scarlet 4 
B; 1/2 pound sal soda; 20 per cent 
Glauber's salt. 

PEARL. 
Two ounces thion violet black A; 3 
ounces thion black T B C; 1 per cent 
sulphide sodium; 1 per cent soda ash; 
20 per cent salt. 

NAVY BLUE. 
Ten per cent immedial indone B B; 
10 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per 
cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. 
LIGHT BLUE. 
Five per cent immedial sky blue F; 
5 per cent sulphide soda; 1 per cent 
soda ash; 20 per cent salt. 
ECRU. 
Four ounces thion brown G; 1 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent salt. 

SAGE GREEN. 
One per cent thion green G; % per 
cent thion yellow G; IVa per cent sul- 
phide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 20 
per cent salt. 

BROWN. 
Eight per cent thion brown G; 2 per 
cent' thion brown 0; 10 per cent sul- 
phide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 30 
per cent Glauber's. 

MYRTLE GREEN. 
Two per cent thion yellow G; 6 per 
cent thion green G; 8 per cent sul- 



264 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



phide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 30 
per cent Glauber's salt. 
SLATE. 
Four ounces thion black T R; i/^ per 
cent sulphide sodium; 1 per cent soda 
ash; 15 per cent Glauber's salt. 



TAFFETA SILK LINING OR 
TAFFETINE. 



This is a fabric made with a silk 
warp, cotton, linen or wild silk filling. 
Taffetine is a term variously used at 
different times; specifically it is a fine, 
glossy, closely woven, uncorded and 
untwilled fabric, used entirely for 
ladies' wear in the form of a lining, 
underskirts, etc. Taffetine derives its 
name from the more costly fabric, 
taffeta. This fabric is of 

QUITE ANCIENT ORIGIN, 
being in use as early as the 16th cen- 
tury as a dress fabric for both ' men 
and women. Taffeta of the 16th cen- 
tury was a thick, costly fabric, made 
with silk and wool. In the 17th cen- 
tury the fabric was defined as a soft, 
thin fabric. In the transition the 
goods have undergone a complete 
change of texture and in the 18th cen- 
tury taffeta was a very lustrous silk 
fabric, sometimes checked or flowered 
or 'striped with gold and silver. 

The taffetine under consideration is 
a fine, plain-woven fabric with warp 
threads per inch greatly in excess of 
filling threads per inch and the warp 
of a much finer count than the filling. 

THE FINEST QUiVLITIES 
of fabrics are made on this basis. The 
warp yarn for these goods is inva- 
riably raw silk, technically known as 
organzine or thrown silk, and the fill- 
ing may be cotton, linen or artificial 
silk. 

The raw silk used for filling in silk 
fabrics is technically known as tram 
silk. This is similar to the organzine; 
the difference lies in the twisting of 
the filaments. These filaments are put 
together very loosely with 

LITTLE OR NO TWIST; 
consequently, they are not as strong 
as the more firmly twisted fibres, but 
sufficiently strong to answer as filling. 

When the filaments cannot be drawn 
from the cocoon in one continuous 
thread, due generally to the cocoon 
being damaged by the worm in eating 
Its way out, these cocoons are torn up 
and the filaments are combed and laid 



parallel to one another, and the thread 
made from the damaged cocoons is 
known as spun silk. 

The spun silk is not as smooth or 
as fine as the raw silk thread, although 
some of the fibres are of considerable 
length and strong enough to be used 
for warp threaas. Spun silk is cal- 
culated by the weight of 1,000-yaid 
same basis as cotton, namely, 840 
yards to 1 hank, or, 840 yards of No. 
Is equal one pound. Raw silk is cal- 
culated as to the size of thread, on the 
hanks in drams avoirdupois; thus, if 
one hank weighs 1 dram, it is known 
as 1 dram silk, or 256,000 yards equal 
1 pound. 

THE FILLING 
for these fabrics is either cotton, lin- 
en or wild silk. Linen filling is used 
in the best grades of taffetine; linen 
yarn is prepared similarly to worsted 
thread, notwithstanding that linen is 
a vegetable fibre. The raw flax is first 
beaten or crushed in order to make it 
pliable; then it is combed, or passes 
through the process technically 
known as scutching. Flax fibres must 
be of a certain length in order to work 
properly. If too long, • they are 
broken in a machine called a saw. 

After the fibres are combed they are 
carded and the long fibres are spun in- 
to linen yarn, while the short fibres 
are converted into what is known as 
tow yarn. Taffetine is sold in both 
narrow and wide widths. The nar- 
row fabric is usually about 19 inches 
wide. This narrow fabric is common- 
ly 

WOVEN DOUBLE WIDTH, 
then cut in two after the fabric is 
woven. 

In order that the ends may not fray 
out after the fabric is cut, the goods 
are made with a fast centre selvedge. 
In warping, extra ends are allowed just 
as in an ordinary outside selvedge. In 
the centre of the warp, these ends are 
reeded double as is the common prac- 
tice for reeding selvedges, leaving one 
or more dents empty where the fab- 
ric is to be cut. 

Fast centre selvedges are extensive- 
ly used in the manufacture of ribbons, 
scarfs, cheaper grades of cassimeres 
and, in fact, any fabric characterized 
by its narrowness. 

The fast centre selvedge consists of 
crossing one thread over two or more 
threads, similarly to the douping of 
threads in leno weaving. 

See diagram. Fig. 1. 

The douning or crossing of threads 
is effected by an attachment on the 
back of the loom, directly in the cen- 



A COTTO'N FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



265 



tre of the loom if but two pieces are 
to be woven; tlie threads that are 
crossed rest stationary in the attach- 
ment, while the crossing threads cross 
over from one side to the other at each 
pick or every two picks as may be de- 
sired. The crossing thread and the 
threads over which it crosses must be 
reeded in the same dent, as in leno 



weaving. 



ANALYSIS. 



Width of warp in reed, 40 inches, 
double width; width of fabric finished, 
19 inches, single width; ends per inch 
finished, 106; ends per inch in reed, 
100. 

Reed, 50x2; ends in warp, double 
width, 3,920; outside selvedges, 80; 
centre selvedges, 80; equals total of 
4,080 ends in warp. 

Take-up during weaving, 10 per 
cent; warp, 1^/4 dram organzine silk. 



in the second division of mills as given 
in a previous article. These mills are 
equipped with combers. The warp 
yarn of the fabric under description 
is silk and the filling yarn is cotton. 
For this class of fabric two kinds of 
raw stock may be used, either a medi- 
um staple Sea Island cotton, or an 
Egyptian cotton. We will assume that 
an Egyptian cotton of good grade and 
of 1%-inch staple is used. As Egyptian 
cotton is 



MORE EASILY WORKED 
American cotton, the speeds 



at 



than 

which the different machines are run are 
higher, as will be noted by comparing 
this article with some of the other ar- 
ticles in which an American cotton of 
the same grade and length of staple 
has been described. Egyptian bales of 
cotton are baled better and compressed 
more tightly than American bales. 




Dotted line indicates where fabric is to be cut. 



Filling, l-50s combed and gassed 
cotton; 88 picks per inch. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

Plain woven silk warp fabrics may 
be woven on any light smooth-running 
loom. The essential consideration is 
the heddles. For this class of fabrics 
the French string heddles are consid- 
ered the best, as they are less liable to 
break or chafe the warp during the 
process of weaving in comparison with 
the ordinary wire heddle. 
FINISHING. 

The goods require little in the way 
of finishing. After the fabric is dyed 
it is slightly stiffened by immersing in 
a light solution of size. The stiffen- 
ing and the materials used in the con- 
struction of the fabric produce a crisp 
and rustling effect. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Taffetine is composed of yarns made 



the average weight being 800 pounds, 
instead of 500 pounds, as compared 
with the American bales. The cotton 
should be allowed to stand in the bins 
a little longer than the American bales, 
so as to allow the cotton to expand. 
The good waste from the machines up 
to the slubber is put into the mixing. 
The cotton is then passed through 
either two or three processes of 

PICKING 

and an opener. Keep the opener well 
filled with raw stock so that as even 
a feed as possible may be obtained. 
The speed of the beater at the breaker 
picker is 1,500 revolutions per minute 
and the total weight of the lap at the 
front is 40 pounds or a 20-ounce lap. 
These laps are doubled 4 into 1 at the 
intermediate picker. The speed of this 
beater is 1,450 revolutions per minute. 
The total weight of the lap at the front 
is ^IVz pounds or a 12-ounce lap. The 



266 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



doublings at the finisher picker are 4 
into 1, the speed of the picker being 
1,450 revolutions per minute. The total 
weight of a lap at the front of the 
picker is 35 pounds or a 12% -ounce 
lap. These laps are put up at the card. 
The licker-in speed is 350 revolutions 
per minute. The flats make one com- 
plete revolution every 30 minutes, and 
the cylinder 160 revolutions per min- 
ute. The draft of the card for this 
class of goods is 135. The sliver at the 
front v/eighs 45 grains per yard and 
the nroduction for a week of 60 hours 
is 550 pounds. Use the same 

SETTINGS AT THE CARD 

as have been previously given for 1%- 
inch-staple American cotton. The grind- 
ing and stripping times are also the 
same. The sliver is next put through 
a sliver lap machine, when it is dou- 
bled 14 into 1 for an 83/4-inch lap. The 
draft of this machine is about 2. The 
bottom steel rolls are spread as fol- 
lows for this staple of cotton: Front' 
to middle, 1% inches; middle to back, 
1% inches. The weight of a yard of 
lap at the front is 295 grains. These 
laps are doubled 6 into 1 at the 

RIBBON LAP MACHINE. 
The bottom steel rolls of this ma- 
chine are spread as follows: Front to 
second, 1% inches; second to third, 
1% inches; third to back, 1% inches. 
The weight of a yard of lap at the 
front of this machine is 275 grains. A 
size of the lap at this machine should 
be taken once a day. A variation of 2 
grains either side of the standard is 
allowed before changing the draft gear. 
These laps are put up at the comber 
and doubled according to the number 
of heads that the comber contains — 
generally 6 or 8. If a six-head comber 
is used, six laps would be put up at 
the back. The percentage of waste 
taken out for this stock is 18. The set- 
tings of the draw box rolls are: Front 
to middle, 1 7-16 inches; middle to 
back, 1% inches. The speed of the 
comber is 90 nips per minute. The 
timings and settings are the same as 
given in a previous article. The per- 
centages of the combers should be tak- 
en regularly, the general method being 
to take so many combers a 
day. Keep needles in good condi- 
tion and straight and free from 
waste. See that the half lap needles 
are in good cond.ition, and that the 
timings and settings are as they 
■Should be. About two combers a week 
should be scoured by a comber man 
and his helper. The weight of a yard 
of sliver at the coiler of this machine 



is 40 grains. This sliver is next put 
through two processes of 

DRAWING FRAMES, 
the doubling being either 6 ends up at 
both processes or, as is often done, 8 
ends up at the breaker and 6 ends at 
the finisher. The weight per yard of 
the sliver at the finisher drawing is 
74 grains. The top rolls used 
may be either metallic or leather. The 
settings of the rolls are as follows: 
Front to second, 1% inches; second to 
third, 1% inches and third to back, 1% 
inches. This setting ' is for leather 
rolls. If metallic rolls are used, set % 
of an inch wider. Size at the drawing 
frame four times a day. At the slub- 
ber the sliver is drawn into .50 hank 
roving, after which it is put through 
three processes of fly frames, the hank 
roving at each process being as fol- 
lows: First intermediate, 1.25; second 
intermediate, 3; and fine frame, 10 
hank. This cotton requires 1 tooth 
more twist than American cotton for 
the same hank roving. Set the jack 
frame bottom steel rolls as follows: 
Front to middle, 1 7-16 inches and mid- 
dle to back, iy2 inches. Size 10 hank 
roving once a day. Watch the usual 
points at the speeders that have been 
already pointed out in previous arti- 
cles. 

THE FILLING 
is either mule or frame spun, general- 
ly mules being used for this class of 
goods. If frame spun, the require- 
ments of a frame are as follows: 
Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of 
ring, 11,4 inches; length of traverse, 
51/2 inches; speed of spindles, 8,200 
revolutions per minute. The yarn is 
then run over or through a gas flame 
to take off all fuzz and give it a lus- 
tre. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

The dyeing of goods composed of 
silk and cotton is generally done in 
open vats provided with a winch, in 
some cases also on a jigger if the ma- 
terial to be dyed requires it. Colors 
which dye silk and cotton are used, 
dyeing first with the substantive color, 
with soap and phosphate of soda, or 
common salt and a little sal soda. Should 
the silk require colors to be made a 
little brighter, acid colors are used in 
a bath of soap and acetic acid, or a 
basic color is dyed in a soap bath with 
acetic acid, the color dyeing both the 
cotton and silk a brighter shade. For 
pale shades: 10 gallons liauor; 5 ounces 
soap; % ounce sal soda; 3 ounces phos- 
phate soda. For heavy shades: 10 gal- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



267 



Ions liquor; 6 ounces soap; % ounce 
sal soda; 6 ounces phosphate soda; 10 
ounces Glauber's salt. The temperature 
of the dye bath is generally about 195 
degrees F. After dyeing, the pieces 
must be well rinsed, and raised with 
acetic acid, in cold water: 10 gallons 
water; 1% pints acetic acid. 

BLACK. 

Eight per cent union black S; 1 per 
cent diamine fast yellow A; 30 per cent 
Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda; 2 per 
cent soap. Top with alizarine iDlack 4 
B. 

SEA GREEN. 

One-half per cent diamine black H 
W; 4 ounces diamine fast yellow B; 
topped with new methylene blue N; 
new phosphine G. 

For 10 gallons dye liquor: 6 ounces 
soap; % ounce sal soda; 3 ounces 
phosphate soda. 

NAVY BLUE. 

Three per cent diamine dark blue B; 
1 per cent diamine brilliant blue G; 
topped with new methylene blue N X; 
metaphenylene blue B; indigo blue N. 

PEARL. 

Two ounces diamine gray G; 1-16 
ounce diamine brown M; topped with 
aniline gray B. 

SLATE. 

Ten ounces diamine gray G; % 
ounce diamine brown M; topped with 
■cyanol extra, orange extra. 

LIGHT MAUVE. 

One ounce diamine violet N; % 
■ounce diamine brilliant blue G; topped 
with methyl violet B I. 

VIOLET. 

One per cent diamine violet N; Vz 
per cent diamine brilliant blue G; 
topped with methyl violet B I. 

PINK. 

Two per cent diamine rose B D; 
topped with rhodamine G. 

RED. 
Three per cent diamine fast red F; 
topped with safranine S 150; acid vi- 
olet 4 R S. 

SKY BLUE. 
Four ounces diamine sky blue F F; 
topped with cyanol extra. 

LIGHT BROWN. 
One per cent diamine brown B; Yz 



per cent diamine yellow B; topped 
with Bismarck brown F F; thiofiavine 
T. 

MYRTLE GREEN. 

Two per cent diamine black H W; 2 
per cent diamine green B; 1 per cent 
diamine fast yellow B; topped with 
brilliant green; new methylene blue 
N. 

SCARLET. 

Three per cent diamine fast scarlet 
G B; 1/2 per cent diamine orange D C; 
topped with safranine G G S; tannine 
orange R. 

CREAM. 

One-quarter ounce diamine gold; % 
ounce diamine orange B; 1-16 ounce di- 
amine fast yellow B. 

STEEL. 

One-eighth ounce diamine gray , G; 
topped with cyanol extra; aniline gray 
B. 

♦-♦-♦ — 

VICTORIA LAWN. 



Victoria lawn is a fabric resembling 
to a great extent a fabric previously 
explained, linon. It is usually made 
with slightly heavier yarn in the warp 
and contains a greater number of ends 
and picks per inch. It is very firmly 
woven. 

It is especially used for aprons and 
ladies' heavy undergarments, having 
excellent wearing and washing quali- 
ties. 

The usual widths are from 32 inches 
to 36 inches. 

They are made in different grades. 
Retail prices for some are 12 and 15 
cents for the 32-inch width, 23 cents, 
27 cents, 32 cents and 38 cents for the 
36-inch width. 

A typical fabric, weighing about 8% 
square yards per pound, is constructed 
as follows: 124 ends per inch, 120 picks 
per inch, 36 inches wide, finished. 
CALCULATIONS. 

Thirteen square inches of the cloth 
under consideration weigh 8 grains. 
To find the number of yards per 
pound: 



13 (sq. in.) x 7,000 (grs. per lb.) 
8 (grs.) X 36 (cloth width) x 36 (inches per yard) 



8. 777 yards per pound. 



268 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



To find the average number or 
count of j^arn in the cloth: 



firmly made, one beam, is the best to 
use. Dobby looms, although capable 



124 (ends per inch) + 120 (picks per inch) = 24*. 



244 X 8.777 (yds. per lb.) x S6 in. 



764 (10% allowed for contraction and size 764 used Instead of 840) 



= 100 average number. 



ANOTHER METHOD 
of finding the average number, without 
taking into consideration the number 
of yards per pound, is as follows: 

Multiply the sum of the slay and 
pick by the number of scjuare inches 
weighed and by .254 and divide by the 
weight in grains. 

This is a simpler method, as will be 
seen by comparing the number of fig- 
ures that have to be used in the two 
methods: 



of weaving goods of this class, are not 
usually run at as high a rate of speed 
as cam looms. 

FINISHING. 



The finishing process includes singe- 
ing, washing, bleaching, very light 
starching, drying and pressing, or cal- 
endering. 



STARCHING. 



244 z 13 X .254 



= 100 average number. 



.254 in the above example is a con- 
stant obtained by dividing 7,000 
(grains) by 36 (inches) and by 764 
(yards per hank). The latter is used 
instead of 840, allowing 10 per cent. 

The counts of the yarns are: warp, 
85s; filling, 130s. 

The weight of the warp yarns may 
be obtained as follows: 124 (ends per 
inch) times 36 inches (finished width) 
equals 4464. 4464 plus 40 for selvedges 
equals 4504, total number of ends in 
warp. 



After a bleaching process, the pieces 
are given a very good starching with 
4 ounces of German white dextrine to 
a gallon of water, boiled for one hour, 
and starched through a mangle, and 
dried over a tenter frame, care being 
taken to have the goods perfectly 
straight. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The counts of yarn of which Victo- 
ria lawn is composed are made in the 
second and third divisions of mills as 
given in a previous article. The counts 
of yarn of which the sample under de- 
scription is made are 85s warp and 
130s filling. Both warp and filling 



4504 X 105 (length of warp) 
85 (counts of warp) x 840 



= 6.623 lbs. ot warp In 100 yards of cloth. 



6.623 plus 5 per cent for size equals 
6.954 pounds, weight of warp and size. 

To find weight of filling: 120 (picks 
per inch) times 40 inches (width in 
reed) equals 4,800 yards of filling in 
one yard of cloth. 



yarns are combed. The cotton use(J 
for the filling yarn is 1%-inch staple 
Sea Island stock and that used for the 
filling is either a long-staple peeler 
or a 1%-inch Sea Island. We will as- 
sume that both yarns are made from 



4,S 



X 100 (cloth length) 



130 (filling counts) x 840 



= 4.S»2 lbs. of fining In 100 yards of cloth. 



6.954 lbs. warp a.nd size. 
4.392 lbs. filling. 

11.346 lbs., weight of 100 yard piece. 

100 divided by 11.346 = 8.8 yards per pound. 

The fabric under consideration, if 
woven on a dobby loom, could be 
woven on about 8 harnesses, straight 
draw, the ends in the body of the 
cloth being reeded 4 in a dent. The 
selvedge ends work 2 as 1, 2 doubles 
in 1 dent. The weave is plain through- 
out. A 12-harness straight draw, the 
ends reeded 3 in a dent, could be sub- 
stituted. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

The remarks made in connection 
with the preceding article, iinon, also 
apply here. A single box cam loom. 



Sea Island stock. The cotton would 
first be opened, as has been previous- 
ly explained, and put through an open- 
er, and either one or two processes of 
picking, generally two processes being 
used; but it is the opinion of a great 
many carders that 

ONE PROCESS IS BETTER 

because of the fact that the more pick- 
ing this cotton is given, the more neps 
are liable to be put in. The mixing 
is generally done by hand and not by 
machine, for the same reason. The 
cotton should be passed through the 
opener in the usual manner and 
should pass on to the lattice apron of 
the breaker picker, if two processes 
are used, and from here passed 



A OOTT'ON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



26» 



through the feed rolls and to the ac- 
tion of the beater. This beater is gen- 
erally of the two-bladed, or armed, 
type, and for this cotton there should 
only be made sufficient revolutions 
per minute to take out the dirt. The 
speed of the beater is 1,150 revolu- 
tions per minute, if two processes of 
picking are used. The weight of the 
lap at the front of this picker is 32 
pounds, or a lO^ounce lap. These laps 
are put up and doubled 4 into 1 at the 
finisher picker, the speed of the beat- 
er being 950 revolutions per minute. 
The beats per minute for this stock 
are 29. The total weight of the lap 
at the front is 28 pounds or a dVz- 
ounce lap to the yard for the 1%-inch 
stock and a 10%-ounce lap for the 1%- 
inch stock. A variation of i^ pound is 
allowed either side of standard for 
1%-inch stock and i^ pound for 1%- 
inch stock. It is understood that 
every lap must be weighed. The lap 
is next put up 

AT THE CARD 
and the draft for the longer staple 
should not be less than 150 and for 
the shorter staple 135. The flats 
should make one revolution every 35 
minutes and the speed of the beater 
should be reduced to 275 revolutions 
per minute for the same reason as 
given for the reduction of the speed of 
the beater of the picker. The counts 
of the wire used for the fillet should be 
35s for cylinder and 37s for doffer and 
top flats. Special care should be given 
to the setting and grinding of the fil- 
let for these cards, the wire being 
always kept sharp. Use the same set' 
tings as given in a previous article 
for this same grade of stock. The 

WEIGHT OP THE SLIVER 
should be about 35 grains per yard for 
the 1%-inch stock and 32 for the 1%- 
inch stock. The production is 250 
pounds per week of 60 hours for 1%- 
inch stock and 275 to 325 pounds for 
1%-inch stock. Both card slivers are 
taken to the sliver lap machines and 
doubled 14 into 1 for an 8%-inch lap. 
The weight of a yard of sliver lap at 
this machine is 220 grains. These 
laps are doubled 6 into 1 at the ribbon 
lap machine, the weight of the lap be- 
ing 210 grains per yard for both 
stocks. The laps of the ribbon lap and 
sliver lap machines should be weighed 
once a day and the weights changed 
at the ribbon lap machine to keep the 
laps at standard weight. The laps are 
next put up 

AT THE COMBER 
and doubled either 6 or 8 into 1, 



according to the number of heads that 
the comber contains. The setting and 
timing of the comber for this stock 
have been previously given. The 
draw box rolls should be set from the 
1%-inch stock as follows: Front to 
middle, 1 13-16 inches, middle to back, 
1% inches. It sometimes happens that 
the draw box will not allow the rolls 
to be spread this distance and about 
the only method to overcome this de- 
fect in this machine, as well as in 
other machines where a like diffi- 
culty occurs, is to reduce the draft be- 
tween the middle and back rolls so 
that the speed of the rolls will be 
equal, and set rolls just to staple, 
which will avoid breaking the cotton; 
but this has the fault of bringing all 
the draft between the middle and front 
rolls. The weight of the sliver at the 
comber for this stock is 35 grains per 
yard for both stocks. The percentage 
of waste taken out for the 1%-inch 
staple is 25 per cent and for the 1%- 
staple is 22 per cent. This sliver is 
next put through two processes of 

DRAWING. 

These drawings should be equipped 
with leather top rolls and especial 
care should be given to the leather top 
rolls of the sliver lap, ribbon lap, 
comber and drawing frame machines. 
The leather detaching rolls of the 
comber require a somewhat rougher 
varnished roll than the others, the 
leather rolls used for the other ma- 
chines having a smooth, glossy finish. 
The varnish used for all the rolls 
should be that which will prevent all 
licking. The weight of the sliver at 
the finisher drawing snould be 60 
grains per yard for both stocks, the 
doublings at each processi being 6 into 
1. At the slubber this is made into .80 
hank roving. The front top rolls 
should be of a larger diameter than 
those used for shorter staples and 
should be varnished with a varnish 
which will give them a smooth, glossy 
finish. The settings should be 1% 
inches from front to middle and 2 inch- 
es from middle to back. The slubber 
roving is then put through three proc- 
esses of fly frames and made into 18 
hank roving for 1%-inch stock, the 
hank roving at each process being as 
follows: 1st intermediate, 2.25 hank; 
2d, 5 hank: and flne 18 hank. Some- 
times the front rolls of the 1st inter- 
mediate fly frame are varnished. This 
yarn is next put through 

THE SPINNING FRAME 
and made into 85s on a frame having 
a 5-inch traverse, 1%-in'ch diameter 



270 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



ring and a spindle speed of 9,400 rev- 
olutions per minute. From here it is 
spooled and warped and put through 
a slasher. The roving for the filling 
yarn is put through three processes of 
fly frames, the hank roving at each 
process being as follows: 1st, 2.25 
hank, second 7.75 hank and fine 24 
hank. This is mule spun into 130s 
and from here is taken to the condi- 
tioning room. 



BIAZ, OR LINEN FINISH 
SUITING, 



Biaz is a medium-grade cotton fab- 
ric resembling linen in appearance. 
This effect is usually obtained on or- 
dinary cotton yarns in the finishing 
process, or in somewhat easier form, 
by using mercerized yarns or mercer- 
izing the fabric in the piece. They are 
usually shown white. 

The. term biaz is an uncommon one 
in this country. It is an Asiatic na- 
tive name, pronounced be'az. 
ORIGIN, 

The goods are said to have originated 
at Biaz, a place in the central part of 
Asia, and to be still manufactured 
there for home use and for export to 
Russia. The goods bearing this name 
are better known in America as "linen 
finish suitings," and are principally 
used for ladies' summer suitings. The 
eastern goods are more heavily filled 
with foreign matter than ours and are 
used for various purposes. 
ANALYSIS. 

The analysis of a typical biaz fabric 
shows the following data: Ends per 
inch, 56; picks per inch, 44; finished 
width, 32.5 inches; weight- 4.57 yards 
per pound; warp, 19s; filling, 20s; the 
ends were reeded 2 in each dent. The 
weight would probably be considered 
4% yards per pound. 

CALCULATIONS. 

To find number of yards per pound. 



The sizes of the yarns are about equal. 
For practical purposes a warp of 19s 
and a filling of 20s would answer*. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 
This fabric may be made on any of 
the light, fast running cam looms. On 
account of the small number of ends 
per inch a set of two-twine harnesses 
would be preferable. One warp and 
one shuttle only are required. 

FINISHING. 

The finishing of biaz is really the 
principal characteristic which distin- 
guishes it from many other plain wov- 
en cloths. It has a more glossy effect 
than Indian linen, one finishing process 
being somewhat similar to that of the 
latter fabric, with the beetling process 
added. 

A finish suitable for this cloth is as 
follows: Bleach, mangle and dry; fill 
with a light starch on the starch man- 
gle; stretch and dry. After drying and 
cooling, it is run through the damp- 
ing machine; then through the glazed 
calender on both sides, under very 
heavy pressure. The cloth is then 
dampened,beetled, changed and turned, 
and again beetled and made up as re- 
quired. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

For biaz the same instructions 
may be followed as were given in the 
article on indigo prints, with the fol- 
lowing exceptions: 

The slubber roving is .50 hank and 
this is put through two processes of 
fly frames. At the flrst intermediate 
the roving is made into 1.20 hank and 
at the second into 3.50 hank. This is 
then passed directly to the spinning 
room and spun into 19s warp yarn on 
a frame having a 2%-inch gauge, two- 
inch diameter ring, 7-inch traverse; 
20.71 twist per inch and a spindle 
speed of 9,400 revolutions per minute. 
This is then spooled and warped, after 
which several warps areput up and run 
through the slasher and run upon a 
beam having the required number of 



A small piece 4 in. x 3 in. weighs 15.7 grs. 4x3 = 12 sq. inches. 
12 (sq. in.) x 7,000 (grains) 



15.7 (grains) x 32.5 (width) x 36 (inches per yard) 



= 4.57 yards per pound. 



To find average counts of yarn in ends wanted for weaving. The filling 
the cloth: yarn is spun into 20s on a frame hav- 



56 ends + U picks = 100. 

100 x 32.5 (width) x 4.57 (yds. per IB.) 



= 19.4 average count. 



100 X 12 isq. in.) x .254 (constant) 



15 ! (grains 



19.4 average counts. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



271 



ing a 2%-inch gauge, li/s-inch diame- 
ter ring, 6%-incli traverse, 14.53 twist 
per inch, and a spindle speed of 7,300 
revolutions per minute, after which 
the yarn is conditioned. 



Dyeing Particulars. 
OLIVE. 
Five per cent pyrol olive G; 5 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent salt. 

BRONZE. 
Five per cent pyrol bronze G; 5 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent salt. 

BLACK. 
Ten per cent thiogene black M cone; 
10 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent 
soda ash; 25 per cent salt. 
SLATE. 
One per cent thion black T B C; 1 
per cent sulphide sodium; 1 per cent 
soda ash; 10 per cent salt. 
ECRU. 
Three-quarters per cent thion brown 
G; 1 per cent sulphide sodium; 1 per 
cent soda ash; 10 per cent salt. 
RED. 
Six per cent diamine fast red B B; 2 
per cent sal soda; 25 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

BROWN. 
Five per cent immedial brown B; 5 
per cent immedial cutch 0; 10 per cent 
sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda ash; 
30 per cent salt. 

SKY BLUE. 
One and one-half per cent thion blue 
B cone; 1% per cent sulphide sodium; 
1 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. 
Develop with peroxide of hydrogen. 
NAVY BLUE. 
Eight per cent thion navy blue R; 
8 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent 
soda ash; 20 per cent salt. Develop 
with peroxide of sodium. 



COBDRG SUITING, 



Coburg, of which there are several 
varieties, may be defined as a thin 
dress fabric made from cotton and 
worsted or cotton and silk. 

Coburg derives its name from the 
city of Coburg, in Germany, where it 
was first manufactured. The all-cot- 
ton fabric known as coburg is an inex- 
pensive dress fabric imitating the gen- 



uine fabric principally in the charac- 
ter of the weave only. 
The weave for these fabrics is an 

UNEVEN-SIDED TWILL, 
giving the face of the goods a very 
pronounced twill effect. The accentua- 
tion of the twill is in part due to the 
number of ends per inch used in the 
construction of the goods. The ends 
per inch in the sample under consider- 
ation equal twice the number of picks 
per inch. 

This is somewhat in excess of the 
number of ends required to make per- 
fect cloth. A perfect cloth is under- 
stood to mean a cloth in which the 
warp and filling yarns are equal in 
diameter, and the space between the 
threads is equal to the diameter of the 
yarn. This principle of construction 
applies particularly to plain woven 
cotton fabrics, more so than to any oth- 
er class of fabrics. In fabrics of a spe- 
cial construction, such as coburg, the 
ends per inch are more or less crowded, 
with the consequent result of a pro- 
nounced twill effect on the face of the 



■DBHDBHDB 

■■aaBDBBa 

DHHDaiDBB 



DBBDBBDBB 
BaBBDBBDB 

aBOBBnBBn 

nBBDBBDBB 

Fig. 1. 



nnnnnnnnB 
□nnannDBa 
DDonnnBDa 
DDDDDBnaa 

aDDDBUDDD 

nnDBoaaDD 
DDBanDana 
DBaaannnn 

BDDDaDDDn 



Fig. 2. 

fabric, which characterizes the goods. 
Cotton coburgs are commonly made 

with a three-harness twill weave ^ 

The ends per inch required in order to 
produce a perfect cloth, according to 
the above principle of constructing a 
perfect fabric, with the given counts 
of yarn, would be as follows: 

Weave repeats on three ends with 
two intersections. Three ends plus two 
intersections equals 5; as 5 : 3 : : 120, 
the number of ends that will lie side by- 
side of l-20s cotton in one inch. 

Formula : 5 : 3 : : 120 : x equals 72. 

The calculation sihows that 72 ends 
and 72 picks of l-20s would give a per- 
fect cloth. 

In some fabrics an analysis will 
show 120 ends and 54 picks in the fin- 
ished fabric. The inequality of ends 
and picks per inch characterizes cloths 
of special construction, as the fabric 
in question. Cotton coburgs are prin- 
cipally used for dress goods, made up 



272 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



into wrappers, shirtwaists, shirtwaist 
suits, etc. The goods are woven in the 
gray, then dyed and in most cases 
printed or bleached and then printed. 
The goods, however, have no particu- 
lar coloring scheme or style of print- 
ed patterns. Some are finished in 
pure white or bleached without any 
printed pattern. Again they may be 
dyed any color desired. In 

most cases the goods are dyed and 
printed. The characters of patterns 
that are most popular in this class of 
goods are small geometrical figures or 
small conventionalized floral figures in 
but one or, at the most, two colors. 
ANALYSIS. 
Width in reed, 37% inches; width, 



j i 


o 


i« 


« 
• 
• 


4 » 
• • 


• • 


• • 

• • 

• • « 

• • 




1 : 





i 




• 1 
« • 


• 1 1 


• • 
• « 

» • 




1 :• 





iO 


• 
• 
' 1 



Fig. 3. 

finished, 36 inches. Reed, 1,400x3; 
number of ends in warp, 4,374; 26 
ends selvedge; equals 4,400 number of 
ends. 

Number of ends, per inch, finished, 
120; number of picks per inch, finish- 
ed, 54; take-up in weaving, about 10 
per cent; warp yarn, l-26s cotton; fill- 
ing yarn, l-26s cotton. 

Fig. 1. Three repeats of weave; 
twill running to the left. 

Fig. 2. Drawing-in draft. 

The warp may be drawn in on 6 
harnesses; 9 harnesses would avoid 
crowding of the harnesses and give bet- 
ter results in weaving. 

Fig. 3. A sample of printed pattern. 
LOOM REQUIRED. 

Common cotton fabrics as a rule may 
be woven on almost any light running 
high speed loom. Twill weaves, in 



which more than four harnesses are 
required, are usually woven on dobby 
looms. A Northrop dobby loom would 
answer for the class of goods analyzed. 
Broken or miss picks in these fabrics 
are hardly noticeable, the filling show- 
ing very little of itself on the face of 
the fabric. 

FINISHING. 
The goods are first all boiled off, 
then dyed or bleached, as may be re- 
quired, after which they are slightly 
stiffened by running through a light 
solution of size, then printed, after 
which they are made up into laps and 
then shipped. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Under most conditions the same in- 
structions given for indigo prints 
may be followed. The main point 
of difference is that of the hank 
rovings at the slubber and fly frames 
or speeders. At the slubber the hank 
roving is .40 and at the first 
intermediate 1.50, while at the 
second intermediate it is made into 
5.25 hank roving. This roving is then 
ring spun into 26s for both the warp 
and filling yarns. For the warp yarn 
use a frame having a 6 1/^ -inch traverse; 
1 34 -inch diameter ring; 2% -inch gauge 
of spindle and a spindle speed of 9,700 
revolutions per minute. 

THIS YARN 
is then run on a spooler, after which 
the spools are put up and run on to 
a beam. Several beams are then put 
up at the slasher, being run through 
this machine to be sized and run on to 
a beam at the head end. The filling 
frame has a 2%-inch gauge; 1%-inch 
diameter ring; 6-inch traverse; 17.84 
twist per inch, and a spindle speed of 
8,000 revolutions per minute. After be- 
ing made, the yarn should be condi- 
tioned by putting it into a steam chest 
or some similar compartment,although 
some mills merely immerse the full 
boxes of yarn into a tank of water and 
take them out immediately. 

Dyeing Particulars. 

For cotton warp coburgs: 

BLACK. 
Five per cent union black S; 30 per 
cent Glauber's salt. 

WINE. 
Three and one-half per cent diamine 
Bordeaux B; 30 per cent Glauber's 
salt. 

LIGHT BLUE. 
One and one-half per cent diamine 
sky blue F F; % per cent diamine steel 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



273 



blue L; S ounces thiocarmine R pow- 
der; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. 
NAVY BLUE. 
Two per cent diamine black B H; % 
per cent naphthol blue black; % per 
cent formyl violet S 4 B; % per cent 
union black S; 30 per cent Glauber's. 
BROWN. 
One per cent diamine orange B; 1 
per cent diamine fast yellow B; y^ per 
cent union black S; 1 per cent diamine 
brown M; % per cent Indian yellow G; 
35 per cent Glauber's salt. 
GREEN. 
Three per cent diamine green G; 1 
per cent diamine black H W; 1 per 
cent diamine fast yellow B; 30 per cent 
Glauber's. 

SCARLET. 
Four per cent diamine scarlet B; 1 
per cent fast scarlet B; 30 per cent 
Glauber's salt. 

SLATE. 
Six ounces union black; 2 ounces 
naphthol blue black; 1 ounce diamine 
Bordeaux B; 2 ounces diamine orange 
B; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. 



For coburgs, all wool: 
For 100 pounds piece goods: 
Dye witb 15 per cent Glauber's salt, 4 
per cent sulphuric acid, for light and 
medium shades; for dark shades add a 
little more if required. 
SLATE. 
Four and one-half ounces cyanole 
green B; % ounce acid yellow A T; 1 
ounce azo orseille B B. 
RED. 
Five per cent naphthol red F B; 1 
per cent orange extra. 
OLIVE. 
Two per cent cyanole green 6 G; 2^ 
per cent acid yellow A T. 

PEACOCK BLUE. 
Two per cent indigo blue S G N; 1 
per cent cyanole extra. 
BROWN. 
Two and one-half per cent acid yel- 
low A T; 2 per cent lanafuchsine S G; 
% per cent cyanole green 6 G. 
SKY BLUE. 
One ounce cyanole F P pat.; y^ ounce 
acid violet 6 B S. 

MAUVE. 
One per cent azo wool violet 7 R; 1 
ounce cyanole extra pat. 
NAVY BLUE. 
Three per cent azo navy' blue 3 B; li/4 
per cent azo navy blue B. 
BLACK. 
Five per cent azo merino black B E. 



KID FINISH CAMBRIC. 

Kid finish cambric is a name given 
to a soft-finished plain cloth which is 
fairly lustrous on both sides, but more 
so on the face than on the back. It is 
used exclusively for dress linings. It 
varies in width from about 24 to 27 
inches, and is shown in black and sta- 
ple shades. 

The fabric derives its name from its 
appearance after being subjected to 
the finishing process. 

The cloth itself before finishing 
does not differ from many other plain 
cloths now shown on the market. It 
is fairly well filled with foreign sub- 
stances; the retail price at which it is 
sold, about 5c. per yard for goods 24 
inches wide, and the firm feel neces- 
sary, preclude the possibility of put- 
ting very much cotton into it. 

The analysis of a sample under con- 
sideration shows the following: Fin- 
ished width, 251/^ inches; ends per 
inch, 64; picks per inch, 54; warp 
yarn, 34s; filling yarn, 38s; weight, 
8 1-3 yards per pound. 

CALCULATIONS. 

A sample 4 inches x 3 inches in size 
weighs 11 grains, indicating a fabric 
weighing approximately 8 1-3 yards 
per pound. 



2,333.33 



11 grs. X 25.5 In. 



= 8.31 yards per pound. 



Allowing 20 per cent for size and 
contraction, the average counts of 
yarns used may be found as follows: 



118 X 25.5 X 8.31 x 1.20 



35.6 average number. 



In the above calculation 118 repre- 
sents the sum of the sley and pick, 25.- 
5 the width of the cloth, and 8.31 the 
number of yards per pound. 

Assuming the counts of the warp 
yarns to be 34s, the counts of filling 
required to make the given weight of 
cloth may be found as follows: 

118 (sum of sley and pick) 



35.6 (average counts) 
64 (sley) 



34 (warp counts) 
3.31 — 1.88 = 1.43. 



= 37.7s counts of filling required. 



54 (pick) 
1.43 

38s filling would be used. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 
As these goods are not noticed very 



274 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



closely after being made into gar- 
ments, being bidden when in use, lit- 
tle attention is paid to picking out or- 
dinary misweaves in tbe loom. Those 
tbat are made are covered to a more 
or less extent in tbe finisbing process. 

Tbe cbief consideration, therefore, 
is a large production, wbicb can best 
be obtained from ligbt running cam 
looms. Ordinary or automatic looms 
may be employed, one warp beam and 
one shuttle only being required. The 
cloth is reeded one end per heddle 
and two ends per dent. 

FINISfflNG. 

This process is really the principal 
one in making these goods, giving 
them, as it does, the characteristic 
name. It gives to the cloth a some- 
what leathery feel, not too harsh or 
stiff, while yet adding a fair amount 
of foreign matter. 

After bleaching, dyeing and man- 
gling, the cloth is dried on the drying 
machine and allowed to cool. It is 
then conditioned on the damping ma- 
chine and allowed to lie for about two 
hours, after which it is hot swiss cal- 
endered on a five-bowl compound lever 
calender, using light pressure. It is 
afterwards filled on an ordinary two- 
bowl compound lever starch mangle 
with a mixture somewhat as follows: 

Dextrin 200 pounds 

Potato starch or farina 20 pounds 

Cornstarch or maize 20 pounds 

Oleine oil 1 2y2 gaUons 

Carbolic acid % Pi°t 

Water, sufficient to make 120 gallons when 
boiled. Boil for 15 minutes. 

After being filled, the cloth is dried 
on the drying machine and allowed to 
cool, then conditioned on the damping 
machine and allowed to lie at least 
two hours. It is then hot swiss cal- 
endered on a three-bowl dead set cal- 
ender, using light pressure, after 
which it is ready for making up. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns for the grade of goods 
under description are made in mills 
having the equipment of those of the 
second division. The yarns for this 
fabric do not have to be combed. They 
are made from cotton of a middling 
grade of 1 1-16 to 1 3-16 inch staple. 
This cotton is mixed as has been pre- 
viously described. The cotton should 
be allowed to stand as long as possi- 
ble after opening before being worked. 
The cotton is passed through an open- 
er and three processes of pickers. Use 
the usual precaution in feeding the 
opener, being sure to keep the pin roll- 
er clear of cotton, especially sliver 



waste, which is apt to wind around 
this roll on certain makes of openers. 
After passing through the opener the 
cotton is fed to the breaker picker. 
The beaters of all the pickers are of 
the two-bladed rigid type. The speed 
of the beater at the breaker picker is 
1,500 revolutions per minute. The to- 
tal weight of the lap at the front end 
of the breaker picker is 42 pounds. 
These laps are doubled 4 into 1 at the 
intermediate picker, the speed of the 
beater at this machine being also 1,500 
revolutions per minute. The total 
weight of the lap at the front of this 
machine is 39 pounds or a 14-ounce 
lap. The laps are doubled at the fin- 
isher picker 4 into 1. The speed of the 
beater is 1,425 revolutions per minute. 

THE TOTAL WEIGHT 
of the lap at the front is 40 pounds or 
a 14%-ounce lap. An allowance of 
one-half pound either side of the 
standard total weight of lap is made 
for this class of goods. At the 
card the speed of the licker-in should 
be 350' revolutions per minute. Do not 
make the card do the work of the pick- 
er, but watch to see that the speed of 
the beater is correct and that the set- 
tings of the feed roll and grid and 
grate bars are right to take out the dirt, 
seed shells, bits of leaves, etc. It is 
too often that the licker-in is called 
upon to do the work that the picker 
should, and a kick is made that the 
cards are not doing their duty. The 
speed of the flats is one complete rev^ 
olution every 55 minutes. The wire fil- 
let used on the doffer and flats is No. 
34s and on the cylinder is No. 35s. 
Grind and strip cards as described in 
a previous article. After grinding, the 
setting points should be all gone over. 
Do not have the flats too tight or they 
are apt to cramp and face, if not loos- 
en, the wire on the cylinder. Be al- 
ways sure to set flats to cylinder by 
the highest flats, generally five being 
left for this purpose. The weight of 
the sliver should be about 50 grains 
per yard and the production 750 to 900 
pounds per week of 60 hours. 
THE CARD 'SLIVER 
is put through three processes of draw- 
ing, the doublings being 6 into 1. The 
speed of the front roller should be 
about 400 revolutions per minute if 
leather is used, and 350 revolutions per 
minute if metallic top rolls are used. 
The drawing should be sized at least 
twice a day and four times a day is 
better. The setting of the bottom steel 
rolls should be especially looked after, 
as well as the knock-off motions, to see 
that no single is allowed to pass. If 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



275 



these motions are not in perfect work- 
ing order single will be allowed to 
pass, which will throw your numbers 
all out and cause a great deal of trou- 
ble to remedy. When changing the 
draft to change weight, always have 
same size draft gear on machines run- 
ning the same kind of work. The 
weight per yard of the sliver is 70 
grains per yard. The drawing sliver is 
drawn into .60 hank roving at the slub- 
ber. Watch 

THE TRAVERSE MOTION 
to see that it is in working condition. 
After passing the slubber, the roving 
is passed through two processes of fly 
frames, the hank at each process being 
2 at the first and 6.50 hank at the sec- 
ond for the warp yarn and 8 hank for 
the filling yarn. Size these yams once 
a day and be sure to keep them on the 
mark. Watch the build of bobbins, 
traverse motion, rolls and setting of 
same. The roving for warp yarn is 
made in 34s on a frame with a 1%-inch 
diameter ring, 6%-inch traverse, 27.70 
turns per inch and spindle speed of 
10,200 revolutions per minute. The 
yarn is then spooled, warped and 
slashed. The filling is spun into 38s 
on a frame having a 1%-inch diameter 
ring, 5%-inch traverse, 23.12 twist per 
inch and spindle speed of 8,800 revo- 
lutions per minute. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
PINK. 
Four ounces Erika G; 15 pounds 
Glauber's; 2 pounds sal soda. 
DIGHT BLUE. 
One-half per cent diamine sky blue 
F F; 15 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent 
sal soda. 

MAUVE. 
One-half per cent diamine violet N; 
15 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

LIGHT SLATE. 
One-quarter per cent diamineral 
blue R; 1-16 per cent diamine fast yel- 
low B; 10 per cent Glauber's; 2 per 
cent sal soda. 

LIGHT FAWN. 
One-quarter per cent diamine cate- 
chine G; Vs per cent diamineral brown 
G; 10 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

SliATE. 
One and one-half per cent diamine 
black B H; ^4 per cent diamine fast 
yellow B; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per 
cent sal soda. 

PEA GREEN. 
One-half per cent diamine green G; 



10 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

ECRU. 

One-eighth per cent diamine catechine 
3 G; Vs per cent diamine catechine B; 
10 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

ROYAL BLUE. 

Two per cent diamine blue 3 R; 2 per 
cent diamine brilliant blue G; 20 per 
cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 
SEAL BROWN. 

Two per cent diamine catechine B; 2 
per cent diamine catechine G; 20 per 
cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda; 

1 per cent diamine fast yellow A. 

WINE. 
Five per cent diamine Bordeaux B; 

2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

RED. 
Four per cent diamine fast red 2 B; 

2 per cent sal soda; 15 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

NAVY BLUE. 

Five per cent diamine black B H; 1 

per cent diamine brilliant blue G; 20 

per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. 

BLACK. 

Three per cent diamine jet black O O; 

3 per cent diamine jet black S S: 30 
per cent Glauber's; 2% per cent sal 
Sii'Ma. 

BOTTLE GREEN. 
Five per cent diamine black H W; 2 
per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's; 2 per cent diamine fast yellow B. 
*~t^ 



BEIGE, 



Under the head of beige is a class 
of dress goods, the characteristic of 
which is their mottled or mixed effect. 
This effect is brought about by various 
methods. The method used in produc- 
ing the effect largely influences the 
quality of the fabric, but the general 
appearance remains the same. 

We will describe beige as made by 
three different methods: First, this 
fabric as originally made of yams 
spun from wool dyed in the stock; 
this dyed stock is then mixed with un- 
dyed stock, then spun into a thread; 
generally several mixtures go into 
one fabric. 

These mixtures of dyed and undyed 
stock are varied. The proportions 
used may be 50 per cent of each; an- 



27€ 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



other mixture may have a more or less 
percentage of either stock; and an- 
other mixture may be composed of 
still a different percentage from the 
first two. 

The threads then spun from these 
mixtures are arranged in some order 
in the warping and also in the weaving, 
producing what are commonly known 
as indefinite plaid effects in connection 
with the mixed or mottled effects. 

THE SECOND METHOD 
is to use a combination of twist yams, 
usually three or four different colored 
threads, as, for example, black and 
wihite, black and slate, slate and white, 
landithie lother maiy be la ipiearl and wihite. 
These combinations of threads may be 
arranged similar to the arrangement 
in the first method, likewise pro- 
ducing an indefinite plaid effect. The 
use of black and white, slate and 




Fig-. 1. 



white, amd colors of similar shades, pro- 
duces gray effects. Grays and browns 
are the prevailing colors in this class 
of goods. The colored yarn used in 
this particular class is usually worsted, 
while the white in most cases is a 
cotton thread. 

THE THIRD METHOD 
of producing this mixed or mottled ef- 
fect is brought about by printing the 
goods. 

This method is usually practiced on 
the cheaper grade of goods, goods com- 
posed entirely of cotton yarn; the ef- 
fect, however, imitates very closely 
the wool dyed in the stock fabric or 
the goods composed of twist yams. 
In the finer grade of fabrics the twill 
weave is much in evidence, while the 
cotton goods are mostly woven plain. 
The plain weave is more adapted to 



the particular character of printing; 
in order to give the plaid effect in conr 
nection with the mixed or mottled ap- 
pearance, the goods are subjected to 
two processes of printing: 

ANALYSIS OF COTTON BEIGE. 

Width of warp in reed, 38 inches; 
width of fabric finished, 36 inches; 
reed, 1,000 by 2; number of ends 
in warp, 2,076; 28 ends each 
selvedge equals 56; total' ends in warp, 
2,132. Number of ends per 
inch finished, 60; picks per inch fin- 
ished, 48; take-up of warp during 
weaving, 12 per cent; warp and filling 
yarn 1-26. The 1,000 reed meams 1,000 
dents in 36 inches of reed. The 2,076 
is the number of ends in warp without 
the selvedge. 

Fig. 1. Sample of fabric as pro- 
duced by means of twist yarns; the 
fabric is plain woven. 

LOOM USED. 

For the better grade of fabrics the 
pick and pick loom is required to give 
the best effects. The goods woven 
pick and pick^ will be less inclined to 
appear stripy; this effect would be un- 
desirable; the stripes should be of 
an indefinite nature. 

The sample of fabric shown in Fig. 
1 is woven on a 4x1 box loom, in 
which no less than two picks of one 
color must be woven before it changes 
on to the next color; unless the col- 
ors are carefully graded they will pro- 
duce a fabric more or less striped. 
In the printed cotton beige fabric a 
single box loom fills the requirements. 
This grade of goods fe woven with un- 
dyed yarns; the effect, as already men- 
tioned, is produced by the printing ma- 
chine after the goods are woven. 
FINISHING. 

The cotton fabric, after it is woven, 
is boiled off, after which it is slightly 
stiffened, then subjected to the print- 
ing machine, after which it is pressed, 
then made up into laps or rolls and 
then shipped. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Beige is a dress goods generally 
made from wool and sometimes of 
wool and cotton, other grades being 
made from all-cotton yarns. The cot- 
ton is dyed in the stock. Some of the 
grades of beige are made from combed 
yarn, whereas other grades are made 
from carded yarns. The staple of the 
cotton does not exceed 1% inches in 
length for an American cotton. Mix 
cotton as has been previously stated. 
Three processes of pickers are used, 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



277 



the particulars being the same as giv- 
en for etamine. The particulars for 
the cards and drawing frames as giv- 
en in that article may be also follow- 
ed. 

AT THE SLUBBER 
the drawing sliver is made into .60 
hank roving, and is then put through 
two processes of fly frames or speed- 
ers, the hank roving at the first inter- 
mediate being 1.75 and at the second 
intermediate being 5 hank. Speeders 
should be looked after to see that 
the rolls are properly set; that top 
rolls are in good condition; that there 
are no dead spindles; that the spindles 
are oiled once a day; the build of bob- 
bin correct; traverse motion working 
properly, and frame at all times clean 
and neat. The bobbins when doffed 
should not be thrown into doffing box 
or truck, but should be packed in. The 
boxes or trucks should be cleaned out 
before doflang. After changing a frame 
■from one land of work to another the 
new roving should be sized and tested 
for twist, and the tension watched. Af- 
ter the speeders the yarn is put 
through 

THE SPINNING FRAME, 
where the proper colors of yarns are 
doubled together and spun into 26s 
yarn, the warp frame having the fol- 
lowing particulars: Length of traverse, 
aVz inches; diameter of ring, 1% 
inches; gauge of frame, 2%inches, and 
spindle speed of 9,700 revolutions per 
minute. The yarn is then spooled, 
warped and slashed. For the filling 
frame use a 2%-inch gauge of frame; 
1%-inch diameter ring; 6Hinch traverse 
and a spindle speed of 8,000 revolutions 
per minute; the diameter of the front 
bottom steel roll of spinning frames 
being one inch for both warp and fill- 
ing. 



Dyeing Particulars — Yarn Dyeing. 

NAVY BLUE. 
Four per cent naphtamine blue 2 B; 
30 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

MEDIUM BROWN. 
Three per cent naphtamine brown N; 
1 per cent naphtamine yellow N N; 20 
per cent salt; 2 per cent sal soda. 
RED. 
Four per cent diamine fast red B B; 
25 per cent salt; 2 per cent sal soda. 
DARK BROWN. 
Four per cent naphtamine brown 6 
B; 25 per cent salt; 2 per cent sal soda. 
SLATE. 
One and one-half per cent naphta- 



mine black D; 20 per cent salt; 2 per 
cent sal soda. 

OLIVE. 

Three and one-half per cent naphta- 
mine olive R; 20 per cent salt; 2 per 
cent sal soda. 

GREEN. 
Six per cent immedial green G G; 6 
per cent sulphide soda; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 25 per cent Glauber's. 

DARK BOTTLE GREEN. 
Eight per cent immedial green; 8 per 
cent sulphide soda; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 25 per cent salt. 
ECRU. 
One-half per cent diamine catechine 
G; 20 per cent salt; 2 per cent sal soda. 
BLACK. 
Ten per cent immedial black N N; 10 
per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent salt. 
MAROON. 
Six per cent immedial Bordeaux G; 
6 per cent suphide sodium; 2 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent salt. 
LIGHT BLUE. 
Six per cent immedial sky blue F F; 
6 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent salt. 



Printing Particulars. 

Cotton beige is also printed on the 
piece. To get a good imitation of the 
woven fabric, it has to be printed on 
both sides of the piece. After printing 
one side of the fabric and drying, the 
pieces are rolled up on a roller and 
the other side of the piece is printed, 
so that both sides of the piece present 
the same appearance. The goods are 
given a soft finish to imitate a piece of 
dress goods. The colors printed on are 
made as fast as possible, so that the 
goods can be washed when required. 

The goods are printed, dried and 
steamed in a Mather and Piatt at 212 
degrees F., excluding the air as far as 
possible. Wash in cold water, soap luke- 
warm, rinse and dry. 
BLUE. 

Seventy parts immedial indone B N; 
stir well to a paste with 20 parts caus- 
tic soda lye, 77 degrees Tw.; 50 parts 
glycerine; then add 150 parts reducing 
paste A. The whole is heated for some 
time to 140 degrees F. and cooled; stir 
in 80 parts China clay; 60 parts sat- 
urated solution of common salt; 570 
parts alkaline gum thickening. 
GREEN. 
Ninety parts immedial green G G; 
300 parts alkaline gum thickening; 40 
parts China clay; 30 parts saturated 



278 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



common salt solution; 150 parts re- 
ducing paste A; mix and stir; when 
cool add 40 parts China clay; 30 parts 
saturated common salt solution; 320 
parts alkaline green thickening. 

BLACK 

Seventy parts immedial black N L N ; 
150 parts reducing paste A; heat to- 
gether to 120 degrees F.; allow to cool 
down, then stir in a mixture of 160 
parts China clay; 120 parts saturated 
solution of salt; 500 parts alkaline gum 
thickening. 

BROWN. 

Mix as the blue with 70 parts imme- 
dial brown B; 10 parts immedial yel- 
low D. 

DARK SLATE. 

Thirty parts immedial black N B; 
mix as the green. 

LIGHT SLATE. 

Ten parts immedial black N G; 2 
parts immedial direct blue B; mix as 
the green. 

ECRU. 

Five parts immedial yellow D; 2 
parts immedial cutch G; mix as the 
green. 

OLIVE. 
Fifty parts immedial olive B; 20 
parts immedial bronze A; mix as the 
green. 

BRONZE. 

Forty parts bronze A; 10 parts cutch 
G; mix as the green. 

FAWN. 
Fifty parts immedial cutch O; 10 
parts immedial brown R R; mix as the 
green. 

LIGHT BLUE. 
Forty parts immedial sky blue; mix 
as the green. 



POPLIN. 



Poplin is a name given to a class of 
goods distinguished by a rep, rib, or 
cord effect running width way of the 
piece. It referred originally to a fabric 
having a silk warp and a figure of wool 
filling heavier than the warp. At the 
present time it refers more to a ribbed 
fabric than to one made from 
any particular combination of mate- 
rials. 

7,000 (grs. per lb.) x 2.5 (yds.) 
2.940 (grs.) 



Cotton poplin is usually made with 
a plain weave, the rep effect being ob- 
tained either by using a fine warp as 
compared with the filling, or a large 
number of ends as compared with 
picks per inch, or both. 

IRISH POPLIN, 

made principally in Dublin, is a fabric 
made of China organzine silk warp and 
colonial wool filling. The manufacture 
of this cloth has continued in Dublin 
since 1693,when a number of Huguenot 
silk weavers emigrated from Lyons, 
France. The industry is still carried 
oi> there to some extent on hand looms, 
the weavers owning their own looms. 
The materials are supplied by the firms 
for whom they work and are given 
out ready for weaving. The Irish pop- 
lin is a light-weight variety of poplin, 
sometimes called single poplin, and is 
celebrated for its uniformly fine and ex- 
cellent wearing qualities. 

Brocaded poplin is made with elab- 
orate jacquard designs of various 
types. 

TERRY POPLIN 

is a very durable fabric, made on the 
principle of cloth construction ex- 
plained in the article on "Terry Pile 
Fabrics." By throwing to the surface 
alternate ends of the silk warp an ap- 
pearance somewhat resembling terry 
velvet is obtained. 

The bulk of cotton poplin goods are 
woven and finished white. Those that 
are shown in colors, except those of 
poor quality, are yarn dyed. They are 
not piece dyed, for the reason that 
when fine and coarse yarns are com- 
bined in the same fabric they do not 
take the dyes equally. 

For a given length of poplin cloth • 
a much greater length of warp is re- 
quired than for an equal length of 
cloth where the warp and filling yarns 
and ends and picks are practically 
equal, because the coarse filling lies in 
the cloth in practically a straight line, 
the warp yarns having to do all the de- 
flecting. 

The analysis of a typical cotton pop- 
lin of good quality shows the following 
data: Ends per inch, 104; picks per 
inch, 4S; finished width, 27 inches; 
weight about 6 yards per pound; warp 
yarns, 2-6Ss; filling yarns, 2-60s. Plain 
weave. 

CALCULATIONS. 

To find number of yards per pound 
2y2 yards weigh 2,940 grains. 

= 5.95, say 6 yds. per pound. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



279 



To find average counts of yarn, as- 
suming the warp yarn to have con- 
tracted 10 per cent in length from warp 
to finished cloth, and the filling 4 per 
<?ent in width: 

104 (ends) divided by .90 116.65 

48 (picks) divided by .96 60.00 



= S2.5 aver, counts. 



1«5.56 X 27.5 (width) x 6 (weight) 
840 

In dealing with the preceding calcula- 
tions it has been considered that the 
yarns were mercerized before being 
woven, and the counts indicated after 
mercerizing. The mercerizing procees 
tends to contract the length of yarn to 
a greater or less degree, depending up- 
on the quality of the yarn, the mercer- 
izing liquor, and the machinery used. 
If mercerized under tension, there is 
not a very large contraction, but if the 
yarn is allowed to contract it may do 
so to the extent of 20 to 30 per cent,that 
is, a cotton yarn spun to 50s may con- 
tract in the mercerizing bath to 40s or 
35s yarn. 

Both warp and filling in the sample 
under consideration are mercerized,and 
are 2-ply yarns of good quality. 

To find the counts of filling required 
to give the stated weight, assuming the 
warp yarn to be 2-ply 68s: 

165.55 divided by 32.5 (ave. counts) 6.09 

115.55 (slay) divided by 34 (warp counts) 3.39 

1.70 

Fifty divided by 1.70 equals 29.4 
equals 2-59s filling required. The 
counts would be indicated as 2-60s. 

The selvedges consist of eight double 
ends on each side. 

To find number of ends in warp: 

104 (ends per inch) x 27.5 (cloth width) = 2,860. 
2,860 + 16 for selvedge — 2,876, total ends. 

To find weight of warp in 100 yards 
of cloth: 

2,876 (ends) x 100 (yards 



and one filling being sufficient. It is 
not advisable to use automatic looms 
unless the same are equipped to change 
the cop or bobbin before the preceding 
one has spent itself, because a mispick 
is one of the defects that shows most 
prominently in this class of goods. 

FINISHING. 
The fabric under consideration, hav- 
ing been bleached and mercerized in 
the yarn, requires very little aftertreat- 
ment. It is washed, conditioned, cal- 
endered lightly and made up, book fold. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

When making the yarns for poplin 
the same particulars may be followed 
as have been previously given in the 
article on "Lawn." For this par- 
ticular grade of poplin the warp 
yarn is 2-68s and the filling yarn 2-60s. 
Use the instructions given for making 
60s warp yarn, with the following ex- 
ceptions. The spinning frame for the 
warp yarn would be as follows: For 
making 68 s warp yarn, 1% inches 
diameter of ring; 5i/^ length of trav- 
erse, and spindle speed of 10,000 revo- 
lutions per minute. This yarn is then 
spooled and twisted into 2-ply, the 
twist put in being 39.17 turns per inch. 
After being twisted, the yarn is warped 
and slashed. For spinning the 60s 
filling yarn use a frame having a l^, 
inch diameter ring; 5-inch traverse, 27 
twists per inch and a spindle speed of 
8,000 revolutions per minute. This yarn 
is spooled and twisted into 2-60s, after 
which it is conditioned and is then 
ready for use. 



Dyeing Particulars. 
BRONZE. 

Five per cent pyrol bronze; 5 



per 



840 X 34 (counts) x .90 (10% contraction) 



= 11.18 lbs. warp. 



To find weight of filling in 100 yards 
of cloth: 



cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent salt. 



48 (picks) X 27.5 (cloth width) x 100 (yds.) 



840 X 30 (counts) x .99 (4% contraction) 

To find weight of 100-rard cut: 



= 5.45 lbs. filling. 



11.18 lbs. warp. 
5.45 lbs. filling. 

16.63 lbs. yarn in 100 yards of cloth 

To find number of yards per pound: 

100 divided by 16.63 = 6 yards per pound. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

For plain weave poplins an ordinary 
plain cam loom is required, one warp 



GREEN. 

Six per cent pyrol green G; 6 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent salt. 

BLUE. 

Six per cent pyrol blue B; 6 per cent 
sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 
20 per cent salt. 

ECRU. 

One-half per cent immedial catechine 



280 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



2 per 



G; 1 per cent sulphide sodium; 
cent soda ash; 10 per cent salt. 

OLIVE. 

Two per cent immedial indone B; 6 
per cent immedial yellow D; Vi per 
cent immedial catechine G; 9 per cent 
sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 
25 per cent salt. 

WINE. 
Eight per cent diamine Bordeaux B; 
2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent salt. 

RED. 

Five per cent diamine fast red B B; 
2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent salt. 

NAVY BLUE. 
Eight per cent katigen indigo B; S 
per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cert 
soda ash; 30 per cent salt. 

SLATE. 
One per cent thion black T B; 2 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 1 per cent soda 
ash; 10 per cent salt. 

SKY BLUE. 
One per cent diamine sky blue F F; 
1 per cent sal soda; 10 per cent salt. 
SEA GREEN. 
One-half per cent immedial green B; 
1 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per cent 
soda ash; 10 per cent salt. 



COTTON-MOHAIR FABRICS. 



but all are plain woven fabrics. 
Some are elaborated into spot 
patterns by means of the fill- 
ing floating over a given number of 
ends in some geometrical form. 
Again, the spots may be formed by 
the use of an extra warp. This 
warp floats on the back of the 
fabric for a given space, then comes 
to the face for a required number of 
picks. This extra warp is usually 
mercerized, the yarn differing in color 
from the body of warp and being ar- 
ranged in groups of two or more ends 
across the entire breadth of warp. 
These groups of threads may alter- 
nate, as, for example, one group may 
be yellow-, the next green, another red 



Mohair fabrics, commonly so 
called, are used exclusively for dress 
goods, in the form of tailor-made suits, 
skirts, children's coats, etc. 

The name, mohair, is acquired from 
the material used in the construction 
of the fabric. This material, mohair, 
the product of the Angora goat, is 
used principally in the filling only; 
the warp may be cotton, worsted, or 
silk, according to the quality of fabric 
wanted. 

The characteristics of mohair fab- 
rics are their crispness and glossy ap- 
pearance. These features are effected 
by the mohair. Mohair, like wool. Is 
an animal fibre, but differs from the 
latter in so far that the fibres are 
longer and coarser than wool, and mo- 
hair is not as soft or as crinkled as 
wool; in brief, it may be described as 
a long, straight, glossy animal fibre. 
These fabrics 

VARY CONSIDERABLY 
in regard to quality, style and width, 




Fig. 1. 

or any color that may strike the fancy 
of the designer, providing that the 
color thus used produces some degree 
of harmony. This will give plenty of 
variety to the fabric, and if these va- 
rious groups of threads are made to 
work on some sateen or broken twill 
order, they will give the appearance 
of a large design, or, as generally 
mentioned, a jacquard effect. In fill- 
ing floated fabrics, it is most impor- 
tant that the distribution of the figure 
should be so that the eye is not at- 
tracted by lines formed by the un- 
equal distribution of the figure. This 
objectional feature is most likely to 
occur in designs of this character. It 
is somewhat difllcult to tell if the dis- 
tribution is perfect without extending 
the design for four or even more re- 
peats. In designs which consist of 
set figures, the difficulty of arrange- 
ment is somewhat elimimated by ar- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



281 



ranging the figure on some irregular 
sateen basis, the Irregular sateen be- 
ing preferred to the regular sateen 
basis as the former gives a somewhat 
stiff aippearance, the latter giving a 
mixed effect more suitable for this 
class of fabrics. Figure 1 shows one 
repeat of the design, the spot based 
on a 5-harness sateen order. Figure 
2 shows one repeat of figure based on 

—J broken twill. Figure 2 presents 
a more mixed effect than Fig. 1. 

Considerable quantities of mohair 
are woven plain throughout. In this 
style of fabrics the ornamentation, if 
such is desired, is effected by means 
of twist or fancy colored threads ar- 
ranged in some order, usually in the 
warp only, though a similar arrange- 
ment may be carried out in regard to 
the filling. These fancy colored 







Fig. 2. 

threads may be arranged in almost 
any way possible; the object, how- 
ever, is to have a fine hair-line stripe 
throughout the entire length of fabric. 
Still another method of breaking the 
monotony of a plain fabric is to skip 
a dent in the reed at certain inter- 
vals; this may be carried out with 
fancy colored threads if desired. 
These fabrics, as mentioned above, 
are made in various qualities. We 
will here deal with the cotton warp 
and mohair filling fabric. This par- 
ticular class is usually piece dyed. 
The warp, however, is dyed before it 
is beamed. When twist yarn is used, 
that is, a twist composed of two 
different colored threads, one of 
the two threads in some fabrics 
is a worsted thread; when such 
is the fact, the warp is not 
dyed until woven into the fabric; the 
cotton end composing one of the twist 
threads will not take the color in a 
worsted dye. When cotton only is use 



in the twist one of the threads is 
dyed before it is twisted, that is, if a 
colored and white thread is to be the 
twist wanted. 
ANALYSIS OF COTTON MOHAIR. 
Width in reed, GOVz inches; width 
finished, 54 inches; ends per inch in 
reed, 44; ends in warp, 2,660; ends in 
selvedge, 78 (39 each side, 3 in a 
dent); total ends, 2,738; reed, 44x1. 

Dressing 2 ends black 

1 end black, white 

2 ends black 

1 end black, white 

2 ends black 

1 end black, white 

2 ends black 

1 end black, white 

2 ends black 

2 ends black, white 

IG 
Ends in warp. 

1,664 black cotton 10 2-80 

996 black white cotton 6 2-SO 

78 bleached cotton 2-80 



2,738 



16 



Filling l-15s mohair, 48 picks. 
LOOM REQUIRED. 

The plain mohair, or the fabric in 
which the ornamentation is effected by 
means of fancy colored threads, may 
be woven on any light-weight loom; 
the roller, dobby or Northrop loom 
may be used to advantage. The 
loom could make better cloth if it 
had a warp stop-motion, as it is very 
important that no ends be left out in 
the weaving; if they are, they must 
be sewed in before the fabric is fin- 
ished, thus entailing another expense. 

Fancy figured mohair requires the 
use of a jacquard loom, on account of 
the number of ends in the repeat of 
the pattern, which would be too great 
for the dobby loom. 

The warp for mohair fabrics is 
reeded one end in one dent, and wov- 
en with considerable tension on the 
warp beam. 

FINISHING. 

After the fabric is woven it is ex- 
amined and mended if necessary. 
then scoured, after which it is dyed. 
These fabrics are dyed in various col- 
ors and shades. After the dyeing 
process, the fabrics are sheared on the 
face, then doubled and made up into 
rolls, ready for the market. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Mohair is composed of all mohair or 
a cheaper grade which is made up of 
mohair and cotton. The count of ths 



282 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



yarn used for the sample under de- 
scription is composed of l-15s mohair 
filling and 2-80s warp yarn. The yarn 
for the filling is made in cotton mills 
of either the first or second division 
as classified in a previous article. 
The yarn is made from an American 
cotton, either peeler or Allen seed 
being used. The staple is l^^ inches, 
and cotton should be of a good grade. 
As this cotton is apt to be very dirty, 
it is generally put through aoi opener 
and three processes of picking. 

THE MIXING 
should be as large as possible, and if 
possible the mixing should be allowed 
to stand for at least three days before 
using so that it may dry out and ex- 
pand. If this is done it will be found 
that the cotton is easier to work and 
the dirt will be taken out very much 
easier. At the mixing be sure that 
the grades of the cotton of each bale 
are the same and do not under any 
circumstances use a creamy bale. 
Each bale should be stapled before 
being put into the mix to see that 
it is up to staple. Keep the hop- 
per of the opener well filled with cot- 
ton SiD as to obtain as even a feed as 
possible. The 

SPEED OF THE BEATER 
at the breaker picker for this stock 
is 1,450' revolutions per minute, the 
beater used being of a two-bladed 
type. The weight of a 4'0'-yard lap at 
the front of the breaker is 40 pounds 
or a 16-ounce lap. At the interme- 
diate picker the speed of the beatei 
should be 1,400 revolutions per min- 
ute, the lap at the front weighing 37^4 
pounds or a 12-ounce lap. At the fin- 
isher picker the speed of the beater 
is 1,350 revolutions per minute. The 
total weight of the lap is 35 pounds 
or a 121/4-ounce lap. At the finisher 
picker the good waste laps, or, as they 
are sometimes called, cut roving 
waste laps, are mixed in with the raw 
stock, one lap cut waste to three laps 
of good cotton. In mills that do not 
have a roving waste picker it is 

THE GENERAL CUSTOM 
to take out the middle two laps and 
spread the cut waste evenly in this 
span and use up the waste in this 
manner. These laps are sometimes 
put up at the cards, but the general 
custom is to put them through the fin- 
isher picker again in the proportion 
named above. A variation of not 
more than one-half a pound either 
side of standard is allowed, every lap 
being weighed. If the laps weigh over 
or under this allowance they should 



be run over again. This point cannot 
be looked into too closely and it will 
save a lot of trouble in the evenness 
of the numbers at the fine frames and 
in the spinning room. The laps from 
the picker are put up 

AT THE CARD, 

the speed of the licker-in being 350 
revolutions per minute ; speed of flat®, 
one complete revolution every 45 min- 
utes (110 flats). The cards should be 
properly set, ground and stripped at 
least three times a day. Keep the 
wire sharp at all times and it is a 
good plan to grind the flats on a spe- 
cial grinding machine for flats, they 
being taken off the cards for this pur- 
pose. The weight of the sliver at the 
card is 45 grains per yard. As the sliv- 
er is to be combed, the card sliver is 
put up at the sliver lap machine, 
where it is doubled 14 into 1 (i. e., 
for a 8%-inch width lap). The weight 
of a yard of lap at the front is 290 
grains. These laps are put up at the 
ribbon lap machine and doubled six 
into 1, the weight of a yard of lap at 
this machine being 275 grains. These 
laps are put up at the comber and 
doubled according to the number of 
heads that the comber has. The per- 
centage of waste taken out at this 
machine is 18 per cent. The weight 
of the sliver is 35 grains per yard. 
This sliver is put through two proc- 
esses of 

DRAWING FRAMES, 

the doubling at each process generally 
being 6 into 1, although some mills 
double 8 into 1 at the breaker and 6 
into 1 at the finisher. The weight of 
the sliver at the front of the finisher 
drawing should be 70 grains per yard. 
Either metallic or leather top rolls 
may be used for this class of work, 
generally the latter being used. See 
that the leather top rolls on all ma- 
chines are in perfect shape and well 
varnished; size the ribbon laps at 
least once a day and drawing frames 
four times a day. The drawing sliver 
is put up at the slubber and drawn 
into .55 hank roving, after which it is 
put through three processes of fly 
frames, the hank roving made at 
each process being as follows: First 
intermediate, 1.50, 2d, 4.50 and fine 
frame, 16 hank. This yarn is taken to 
the spinning frame and spun into 80s 
on a frame with a 2%-inoh gauge of 
frame, 1%-inch diameter ring, 5%-iincli 
traverse and spindle speed of 9,600 rev- 
olutions per minute. This yarn is 
then spooled and then twisted into 2- 
ply 80s yarn, many times two differ- 



A COTTON FABRICS OLOiSSARY. 



283 



ent colored yarns being twisted to- 
gether. The yarn is then respooled 
and run upon a beam, after which the 
beams are put through the slasher 
and sized. 



Dyeing Particulars. 
MEDIUM BROWN. 

Three per cent naphtamine brown 
N; 1 per cent naphtamine yellow N 
N; 20 per cent salt; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

DARK BROWN. 

Four per cent naphtamine brown 6 
B; 25 per cent salt; 2 per cent sal 
soda. 

SLATE. 

One and one-half per cent naphta- 
mine black D; 20 per cent salt; 2 per 
cent sal soda. 

OLIVE- 

Three and one-half per cent naphta- 
mine olive R: 20 per cent salt; 2 per 
cent sal soda. 

DARK BOTTLE GREEN. 

Eight per cent immedial green; 8 
per cent sulphide soda; 2 per cent 
soda ash; 25 per cent salt. 

BLACK. 

Ten per cent immedial black N N; 
10 per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per 
cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt. 

MAROON. 

Six per cent immedial Bordeaux G; 
6 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per 
cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt. 



HERRINGBONE STRIPES. 



Herringbone stripes are certain 
weave effects resembling herring 
bones. They are developed to the 
greatest extent in men's wear fabrics, 
woolens, worsteds, cotton worsteds 
and all-cottons, although in these 
goods the arrangements of various col- 
ors in the warp yarns form one of the 
principal component parts of the pat- 
tern. Herringbone weaves in ladies' 
dress goods are usually shown in 
white. 

These weaves are a development of 



ordinary twill weaves iln which the 
twillsi, instead of rumning in one- un- 
broken line diagonally across the 
piece, run for a certain number of ends 
one way and a certain number of ends 
in the reverse direction, thus breaking 
the contimuity of the twill. They dif- 
fer from wave effects In having the two 
ends defining the turning points of the 
twill arranged to work opposite each 
other, 1. e., when one is raised the 
other is depressed. This may be seen 
at the points indicated by the daggers 
in Figs. 1 to 5. 

The foundation twills principally 
used when developing these weaves 
for men's wear goods are the even 



flushed twills "^ — and 



Figs. 6 



and 7, the former forming the greater 
proportion. Figs. 1 to 5 show some of 
the other weaves used, the number of 
ends an each section and the number 
of sections in a repeat being made to 
vary according to rquirements. The 
daggers indicate the cutting points. 

Although the principle may be ex- 
tended to large weaves, it is seldom 
that the eifects' are made from a 
weave base greater than eight ends 
and eight picks. 

Fig. 8 illustrates a herringbone ef- 
fect in a cotton cloth made with weave 
Fig. 1. In the gray the warp appears 
to stand up from the cioth in the sec- 



tions weavini 



on the face. This 



prominent effect is modified in' the fin- 
ished cloth. 

Fig. 8 is one of a line or range of 
patterns made and finished lin Eng- 
land, for sale in northwest Africa. 
The construction of the cloth is as fol- 
lows: width in gray, 30i/^ inches; 
ends per inch, 68; picks per inch, 72; 
warp, 35s; filling, 48s; yards per 
pound, 7.72, say 7%. The ends have 
been reeded equally throughout, 2 ends 
per dent. The selvedges consist of 
12 ends of 2-ply 30s yarn on each side. 

CALCULATIONS. 

To find number of ends in warp: 

68 (ends per Inch) x 30% (Inches) = 2,074 ends. 

2,074 + 24 (selvedges) = 2.098 ends in warp. 
24 2-ply yarns represent 48 single yarns. 

In the above calculation 24 of these 
were considered when multiplying the 
ends per inch by the width, leaving 
but 24 to be added. 

To find weight of warp: 



2098 (ends) x 105 (yds.) 



840 X 25 

To find weight of fillini 



= 7.05 lbs. warp. 



72 (pks.) X 33 In. (width In reed) x 100 (yds.) 
840 X 48 



5.89 lbs. filling. 



284 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



To find number of yards per pound: 

7.05 lbs. warp. 
S.89 lbs. filling. 

12.94 lbs. weight of cut. 
100 (yds.) divided by 12.94 = 7.72 yards per pound. 

The finished fabric has been heavily 
sized or filled, giving but 6 2-3 yards 
per pound. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

The class of goods under considera- 
tion is generally woven on fast run- 



t t t 

DDDaDGDBDBBanaH 

DDBDDDBaaaaBaaH 
DBaaDBOCBBDaaaDB 
aaaDaDaaaaaaaaaa 



Fig-. 1. 



DDanaaDDaaaac 
naDaaoDanaaai 
aaDaDDaaaaaDi 



t 

BDDB 

BDaa 

DaQD 



Fig. 2. 



t t 
DBnDnaDBBanajBDDDB 
■aDDaDBDaBBDHDaaBa 
DaDanaDaaaBBDaaaDB 

DDBDBDBaaDBBODBDaa 

DaaaQaaacaaBaacBDD 
aDaGaGaaaDarraaaaaD 

Fig. 3. 



Daa 

maa 

DDr 

aai 

aaa 



t t 

DaaDBBDBDDBaGCa 

aaBDaBBDBDDBaaa 

BBDBaDBaaaQDBBD 

BOBDBDnBBDBDBDB 

DBDBDBDDBBDBDBg 

iGDBBDBDaBBDBDD 



sitripes are composed are made in 
mills of the second division^ as given 
in a previous article. The count of 
the yarns put into this style of fabric 
varies, and for this article we will con- 
sider that the count of the yarn used 
is 35s for warp yarn, 48s for filling 
and 30s' for the selvedge. The staple 
of the cotton used for the 30s and 35s 
yarn is 1%, inch and for the 48s is 1 
3-16 inch of a middling grade. 

THE MIXINGS 

should be as large as possible so that 
as little variation as possible will be 
found between the different mixings, 
and also there should be two mixings 
of the same length of staple, one being 
used while the other is being worked. 
If the mixing is put through a bale 



Fig. 4. 



naDBBBCBaBDDaBBB 
DDBBBDBDBDBDaaBB 
DBaBOBaaBBOBaDDB 
BBaaBDODBBBDaaDD 

BBDBDDaaDaBBaaaa 
BOBncnaanDBBBDag 

DBDODBBBDDCBBBOB 
BaDDBBBDBDDDBBBD 

Fig. 5. 



BBDDGB 
BDDDBB 
DDDBBB 
DDBBBU 
DBBBDD 
BBBDDD 
Fig. 7. 



Fig. 6. 



ning, side cam, single box looms. One 
warp only is required and the goods 
are reeded equally throughout. 
FINISHING. 
This fabric has been subjected to 
the "back filled" process of finishing. 
This consists of bleaching, mangling, 
drying, damping, calendering, stretch- 
ing and filling. The mixture for back 
filling is composed of wheat starch, 
farina, China clay, oleine oil, cocoanut 
oil, bluing, carbolic acid and water. 
After being filled, it is dried, dampen- 
ed, calendered and made up as re- 
quired. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns of which herringbone 



Fig 



S. 



breaker one mixing may be done away 
with. This is so that the cotton will 
be allowed to expand as much as pos- 
sible before being put through the 
pickers. An opener and 

THREE PROCESSES OF PICKERS 

are generally used for both lengths of 
staple. Follow the rules already giv- 
en in connection with the openers. 
At the breaker picker the speed of a 
two-bladed rigid type of beater is 1,- 
500' revolutions per minute and of a 
three-bladed beaiter is 1,000 revolu- 
tions per minute. If a pin beater is 
used the speed is 1,200 revolutions per 
minute. The total weight of the lap at 
the front of this picker is 40 pounds. 
The laps are put up at the intermediate 
picker and doubled 4 into 1. The 
speed of a two-bladed beater at this 
machine is 1,450 revolutions per min- 
ute, a three-bladed beater, 950 and a 
pin beater, 1,100 revolutions per min- 
ute. The total weight of a lap at the 
front of this machine is 38 pounds or 
a 14 ounce lap for both stocks. These 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



285 



laps are put up at the breaker picker 
and doubled 4 into 1. At this picker 
the cut waste laps are put in in the 
proportion of three laps of raw stock 
to one lap of cut waste, the waste lap 
being generally inserted between the 
back and third lap . The speed of this 
beater is 1,400 revolutions per minute; 
for two-bladed beater, 925 revolutions 
per minute; and 1,050 revolutions per 
minute for a pin beater. The total 
weight of the lap at the front is 39 
pounds or a 16-ounce lap for a 40-yard 
(in length) lap. The laps are next put 
up 

AT THE CARD. 
This card should have a licker-in speed 
of 350 revolutions per minute. The 
wire used should be 110s for cylinder 
and 120s for doffer and top flats. The 
top flats should make one complete 
revolution every 45 minutes and 
should be looked after tO' see that they 
are properly cleaned and ground. 
Grind and strip and set as per instruc- 
tions given in a previous article on the 
same length of staple. The weight of 
the sliver at the front should be 45 
grains per yard and the production 650 
pounds per week of 60 hours. The cot- 
tons are next put through the sliver lap 
machine, the doublings being 14 into 1 
and the weight per yard of lap being 
290 grains per yard. These laps are 
put up at the ribbon, lap machine' and 
doubled 6 into 1, the weight per yard 
of lap being 275 grains. 

AT THE COMBER 
the laps are doubled 6 into 1 and the 
weight per yard of the sliver is 40 
grains per yard. For this class of 
goods 16 per cent of waste is taken 
out. Keep the leather top rolls in 
good condition and well varnished and 
the comber free from dirt. At the 
drawing frames the doublings at the 
breaker are 8 into 1 and at the finish- 
er, 6 into 1. This is not the case in 
all mills, as the number of doublings 
used varies. The weight per yard at 
the finisher drawing is 70 grains'. This 
is put through the slubber and made 
into .60 hank roving. The slubber rov- 
ing for the 30s and 35s yarn is made 
into 2 hank roving at the intermediate 
fly frame and 6.50 at the fine frame. 
The hank roving for the 48s is 2.50 at 
the intermediate and 9.50 at the fine 
frame. 

THE SIZING 
of the cotton should be as follows: At 
pickers, every lap and a variation of 
not more than one-half a pound from 
standard weight allowed; at the card 
once a week; at sliver and ribbon lap 
once a day; at drawing frame four 



times a day; at slubber once a week, 
at intermediate once a week; and at 
fine frame once a day. 

The roving for 30s selvedge yarn is 
made on a frame having a 6%-inch 
traverse, 1%-inch diameter of ring, 
26.02 twist per inch and a spindle 
speed of 9,800 revolutions per minute; 
for the 35s the same conditions exist 
except that a 1%-inch diameter ring is 
used, a 28.10 twist per inch and a spin- 
die speed of 10,300 revolutions per 
minute. The yarn is then spooled and 
warped and put through a slasher. The 
filling yarn may be either mule or 
ring spun; if the latter, us© a frame 
having a li/4-inch diameter ring, 5V2- 
inch traverse, 25.98 twist per inch and 
a spindle speed of 8,400 revolutions per 
minute. This yarn is then conditioned, 
after which it is ready for the loom. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
BRONZE. 

Five per cent pyrol bronze; 5 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent salt. 

GREEN. 
Six per cent pyrol green G; 6 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent salt. 
BLUE. 
'Six per cent pyrol blue B ; 6 per cent 
sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 
20 per cent salt. 

OLIVE. 
Two per cent immedial indone B; 6 
per cent immedial yellow D; 14 per 
cent immedial catechine G; 9 per cent 
sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 
25 per cent salt. 

WINE. 
Eight per cent diamine Bordeaux B; 
2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent salt. 
RED. 
Five per cent diamine fast red B B; 
2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent salt. 
NAVY BLUE. 
Eight per cent katigen indigo B; 8 
per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent salt. 
SLATE. 
One per cent thion black T B; 2 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 1 per cent soda 
ash; 10 per cent salt. 

SKY BLUE. 
One per cent diamine sky blue F F; 
1 per cent sal soda; 10 per cent salt. 
SEA GREEN. 
One-half per cent immedial green B; 
1 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per cent 
soda ash; 10 per cent salt. 



286 



A COTTON FABRICS! GLOSSARY. 



UNION Lira LAWNS. 

These fabrics, as the name implies, 
are made up of cotton and linen yarns. 
The cotton in most cases forms the 
warp and the linen is woven in as fill- 
ing. 

Union linen lawns are plain woven 
fabrics made in various textures in re- 
gard to ends and picks per Inch, and 
also the quality and counts of yarn. 

The goods are used for various pur- 
j)oses, principal among which are fur- 
niture coverings, summer outing suits 
and dusters. The goods, when used 
for the above purposes, are usually fin- 
ished without bleaching. The cotton 
yarn is usually dyed to match the col- 
or of the unfinished linen warp or fill- 
ing, as the case may be. 

The fabric as used for household pur- 
poses is usually finished white or 
bleached. 

CJ^4SSIFICATI0N AND ORIGIN. 

Woven fabrics may bo divided into 
three classes, generally speaking, and 
from these there are derived all the 
various weaves now in use, with the 
possible exception of the leno weave, 
which may be placed in a class sepa- 
rate from the three foundation weaves, 
to wit, the plain weave or cotton 
weave, second, the itwill weave, and 
third, the satin weave. The first- 
named in the division covers a great- 
er variety of fabrics than the combin- 
ed number of the latter two, the weave 
in connection with the kind and qual- 
ity of yarn and also the texture. Not- 
withstanding that there may be sev- 
eral textures in any particular fabric, 
these are the distinguishing features 
that characterize the wide range of 
cotton fabrics. 

The origin of the name is derived 
sometimes from the city or country 
in which the fabric was first made, or 
from the nameof the maker; or, again, 
it may be given to the fabric from the 
nature of the material of which it is 
made, as, for example, union linen 
lawns; the name lawn implies that the 
"fabric is plain woven. 

In 

THE CONSTRUCTION 
of these fabrics there is considerable 
latitude in regard to ends and picks 
per inch and counts of yarn. Some 
grades of linen, lawns are made up very 
firmly, again others may be construct- 
•ed rather loosely. 

ANALYSIS. 
Width of warp in reed, 38 inches; 



width of fabric, finished, 36 inches; 
ends per inch, finished, 60; ends in 
warp, 2,160; ends in selvedges, 20: to- 
tal, 2,180. 

Reed, 27i^x2; take-up of warp dur- 
ing weaving about 8 per cent; warp, 
l-40s cotton. 

Filling, l-20s linen, 300 yards per 
hank; 56 picks. 

Analysis of a coarser grade of union 
linen lawn: width of warp in reed, 37^ 
inches; width of fabric, finished, 36 
inches; ends per inch, finished, 52; 
ends in warp, 1,S72; ends in selvedges. 
16; total, 1,888. 

Reed, 25x2; warp, l-30s cotton. 

Filling, 80s linen, 300 yards per 
hank: 50 picks per inch; take-up dur- 
ing weaving, 10 per cent. 

Fig. 1. weave. 

Fig. 2 drawing-in draft. 



amamamnm 
mamamama 
amnmamam 
mamnmama 
amamamnm 
mamamama 
amamamam 
mamamama 



Fig. 1. 



nnnnannB 

nDDDDDBn 
DDDaDBDa 

DaDDBDna 
nnaBDDDa 

□DBnaDDD 

DBnaaann 
BGDnnnaa 

Fig. 2. 



WEAVING AND FINISHING. 

Fabrics used for dress goods, that is, 
outer garments, require more attention 
in the weaving than almost any other 
class of fabrics. The goods should be 
woven faultlessly, or, if the fabric has 
any faults, these faults must be mend- 
ed so as not to show in the finished 
fabric; otherwise the goods can only 
be sold as seconds and at a greatly re- 
duced price; consequently, a weaver 
has charge of but four looms on plain 
woven fabrics, intended for dress ma- 
terial. The looms used for these goods 
may be plain cam looms, roller looms, 
or clipper looms, running at from 120 
to 140 picks per minute. The goods, 
after they come fi^om the loom, are 
burled and mended, then boiled off if 
finished without bleaching, or they 
may be bleached, then pressed, made 
up into laps and are then ready for 
shipment. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Union linen lawn is composed of two 
fibres, linen and cotton, the warp yarn 
being cotton and the filling yam linen. 
Several grades of this fabric are made, 
two of which are taken for example. 
In these two the warp yarn is 140s for 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



28T 



the fine and l-30s for the coarser fab- 
ric. These yarns are made in the 
same division of mills and, in fact, the 
same mills make the two classes of 
fabric. Where this is the case, 

THE DIFFERENT PROCESSES 
"weights per yard, etc., are the same 
up to a certain point. We will consid- 
er the two counts to be made of the 
same staple and grade of cotton, which 
would be 1 5-16-inch staple peeler 
cotton. The bales should be opened, 
stapled and graded before being 
put into the mixing, which may ba 
done either by hand or by machine.that 
done by the bale breaker being better 
because it opens the cotton more thor- 
oughly. The good sliver from the ma- 
chines up to the slubber is mixed in at 
this point either as it is collected, or, 
as is often done, on mixing days. The 
cotton is put through three processes 
of picking and an opener. 

AT THE OPENER 
the general instructions given in pre- 
vious articles should be followed. At 
the breaker picker the type of beater 
used may be either a pin or 3-bladed 
rigid type. The speed of the pin beat- 
er is 1,200 revolutions per minute and 
of the three-bladed type 1,000 revolu- 
tions per minute. The weight of the 
lap at the front of this machine is 40 
pounds or a 16-ounce lap. At the in- 
termediate picker the speed of a three- 
bladed beater is 975 revolutions per 
minute, the doublings being 4 into 1. 
The total weight of lap at the front of 
this machine is 37% pounds or 15 
ounces per yard. At the finisher pick- 
er the doubling is 5 into 1. The speed 
of a two-bladed rigid type of beater is 
1,425 revolutions per minute. The to- 
tal weight of a 40-yard lap is 33 pounds 
or a 13-ounce lap. At this machine 
the cut roving waste laps are mixed in 
the proportion of three laps of good 
cotton to one lap of cut waste. It is 

GENERALLY THE CUSTOM 
to prepare these laps at the intermedi- 
ate picker. At the card the draft 
should not exceed 100 and the speed of 
the licker-in is 350 revolutions per 
minute. The wire fillet used should be 
that used for medium counts of yarn, 
or No. 110s for cylinders and No. 120'S 
for doffer and top flats. The speed of 
the to'p flats (110 to set) should be one 
complete revolution every 50 minutes. 
The weight of the end sliver at the 
front should be 45 grains per yard and 
the production 650 pounds per week of 
60 hours. Strip cards three times a 
day and grind once every three weeks. 
After grinding, set all important parts. 
Clean out fly at regular intervals for 



this class of work, it being done twice 
a day. Watch the stripis from the 
top flats to see how the flats are 
working. Always have plenty of 

SPARE BANDS 
on hand so that if one breaks, another 
may be put on without loss of time. 
Always see that the brackets used for 
the stripping brush are properly set 
for both doffer and cylinder and also 
see that they are properly stripped by 
the card attendants, for too often are 
they only half stripped if they are not 
watched. The yarn used for this class 
of goods is combed and at the sliver 
lap the weight per yard is 290 grains, 
the doublings being 14 into one. At 
the ribbon lap the doublings are 6 in- 
to 1 and the weight of a yard of lap is 
270 grains per yard. 

AT THE OOMBER 
the doublings are 6 into 1 and 16 per 
cent of waste is taken out. The weight 
of the sliver at the coiler is 50 grains 
per yard. Follow the particulars for 
setting, timing and varnishing the 
rolls as given in a previous article. 
The doublings at the breaker are 8 in- 
to 1, two processes of- drawing being 
used. The weight per yard at the 
breaker drawing is 90 grains per yard. 
At the finisher drawing the doubling 
is 6 into 1 and the weight per yard is 
70 grains. At the slubber the drawing 
sliver is made into .60 hank roving. 
The yarn is next put through two proc- 
esses of speeders or fly frames. At the 
first intermediate the hank roving is 
2 and at the second or finishing speed- 
er the hank roving is 6 for 30s yarn, 
and 8 hank for 40s yarn. The roving 
is next taken to 

THE SPINNING ROOM 
and spun into 30s on a frame having 
a 6%-inch traverse, 1%-inch diameter 
ring, 26.02 twist per inch and a spindle 
speed of 9,800 revolutions per minute. 
For spinning 40s, a frame with a spin- 
dle speed of 10,000 revolutions per min- 
ute, 28.46 twist per inch; 1%-inch di- 
ameter ring and 6i^-inch traverse, is 
used. After being spun, the yarn is 
spooled and then run on a beam. Sev- 
eral of these beams are put up at the 
back of the slasher and after being 
slashed are run on a beam at the 
front. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
OLIVE. 
Five per cent pyrol olive G; 5 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent salt. 
BRONZE. 
Five per cent pyrol bronze G; 5 per 



288 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent salt. 
BLACK. 
Ten per cent thiogene black M 
cone; 10 per cent sulphide sodium; 
2 per cent soda ash; 25 per cent salt. 
SLATE. 
One per cent thion black T B C; 1 
per cent sulphide sodium; 1 per cent 
soda ash; 10 per cent salt. 
ECRU. 
Three-quarters per cent thion brown 
G; 1 per cent sulphide sodium; 1 per 
cent soda ash; 10 per cent salt. 
RED. 
Six per cent diamine fast red B B; 
2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

BROWN. 

Five per cent immedlal brown B; 5 
per cent immedial cutch O; 10 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda 
ash; 30 per cent salt. 

SKY BLUE. 

One and one-half per cent thion blue 
B cone; 1^^ per cent sulphide sodi- 
um; 1 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent 
salt. Develop with peroxide of hydro- 

NAVY BLUE. 
Eight per cent thion navy blue R; 
8 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per 
cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. De- 
velop with peroxide of sodium. 



SATIN CHECKS. 



Satin checks, so-called, derive their 
name from the appearance of the pat- 
tern, which consists of variable block 
effects, usually equal in size in the 
same piece, on the plain weave basis. 

Some of the larger effects resemble 
checkerboards and are known as such. 
They are also known as dice checks. 

A satin check fabric made in Eng- 
land for the northwestern Africa ex- 
port trade is similar in construction 
and finish to the "herringbone" fabric, 
considered in a preceding article and 
the data given there in connection 
with these items will also apply here. 

The weave principle upon which the 
cloth has been constructed may be seen 
in Fig. 1, which is composed of warp 
flush and filling flush weaves arranged 
on the plain cloth base, four square sec- 
tions completing the weave. In this 
case the complete weave is on 48x48, 



each section being on 24x24. The base 
weaves used are the i— . and the ^-— 

1 

twills. 

The object in alternating blocks of 
warp flush weaves with blocks of fill- 
ing flush weaves is to produce a cloth 
whereon the pattern seems to appear 
stronger when viewed in certain direc- 
tions than when viewed in others, with 
two weaves that have the same struc- 
ture, although differing in appearance. 
This principle is developed on an ex- 
tended scale In white damask table- 
cloths. 

The shadow effect seen in these 



( amaaKmaaazDK 
\ iiaaiiaHajL.Daa 

/ MIDBaaiDDaBUD 

) MHtf.-jBaoDBaaa 
( ■■MitGaaBDana 
, BiiBAaaBaaDDa 

, DDJO ■DBHBBB 

C OnaDBUHDHBBB 

) nnDBDDnBDBBB 

\ QaBDaDBBBDBB 

/ uBaaaaBBBBDB 

V BDaDDDBBBBBa 

4 times 

Fig. 1. 



4 times 4 times 

Fig. 2. 

( DBBBBBaDDDDB 

^ BDBBBBaGDDBD 

) BBDBBBDDDBDa 

) BBBaBBDDBDDa 

f BBBBDBDBaDDD 

^ BBBBBDBDDnDa 

' aaDDaBDBBBBB 

aaQDBDBDBBBB 

nUDBDDBBDBBB 

DOBDDDBBBDBB 

DBDDDDBBBBaB 

BDDDDaBBBBBa 



4:^ picks in repeat 

Fig. 3. 

iBBBBaBDBnDDa 
BBBBBDBDDDDa 
DBBBBBDaaaDB 
BDBBBBaOaDBD 
BBaBBBDDDBDa 
. BBBOBBaDBaDD 
; DDGBDDBBDBBB 
( aUBDaaBBBDBB 
> DBDaDDBBBBDB 
< BDGDDDBBBBBi:! 
I DDDDDBDBBBBB 

\. aaaDBDBaBBBv 



4 times 4 times 

Fig. 4. 



goods is an optical illusion, due to the 
reflection of the light after it falls on 
the filling being at a different angle 
to that reflected from the warp, both 
being viewed from the same position. 
The larger the section and the greater 
the proportion of one yarn as com- 
pared to the other in the same, the 
more lustrous will be the general ap- 
pearance of the goods. 

Fig. 2 shows the harness draft and 
Fig. 3 the chain draft for producing 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



289 



the weave. Fig. 2 is known as a sec- 
tional drawing-in draft. 

One of the principal points to be 
noted in the construction of these 
weaves is to make the warp floats of 
each section oppose the filling floats of 
the adjoining sections, both warp way 
and filling way. If this is not done, 
a ragged or indistinct pattern will re- 
sult, in addition to the cloth not hav- 
ing as firm a feel. 

Another point is that it is advisa. 



nuBBDBBanaDKDGDa 

■■DaBBDBGaDaOBDD 

BaBBBaaBDoanDaaD 

aaaDBBBDaDDDaDDD 
DBBBDBBBDGDBaaDa 
BBDBBBDBDBnDaBDD 
BDBBBDBB DBaODBD 
BBBDBaaaBDDDBDDD 

DaDBDDaaGBaBaaaa 

DBDDDBODBBDaaBna 
DDBaDaBDBDBBBGaa 
BDDDBDOaBBBGBBBD 
GGGBGGDBGBBBaBBB 
GBGGGBGGBBGBBBGB 
GGBGGGBGBGBBBGBB 
BGGGBGGGBBBGBBBG 



Fig. 5. 



DBBBGBBBGGGBGDGB 
BGBBBGBBGGBGGDBG 
BHBQBBBGBGDGBGGG 
BBGBBBGBGBGGGBGD 
GBBBGBBBGGGBGGDB 
BGBBBGBBGGBGGGBG 
BBBGBBBGBl GGBGGG 
BBGBBBGBGBGGGBGG 
GGBGGGBGBGBBBGBB 
GGGBGDGBGBBBGBBB 
GBGGGBGGaBGBBBUB 
BGGGBGDGBBBGBBBG 
GGBGGGBGBGBBBGBB 
GGGBGGGBGBBBGBBB 
GBGGGBGGBBGBBBGB 
BGGGBGGGBBBGBBBG 



Fis. 6. 



BBBBBGBBGGBGGGGG 
GBBBBBBBGGGGGQGB 
BBBGBBBBGGGGBGGG 
BBBBBBGBGBGGGGGG 
BDBBBBXBGGGGGGBG 
BBBBGBBBGGGBGGGO 
BBBBBBBGBGGGDGGG 
BBGBBBB8GGGGGBGG 
GGBGGGGGBBBBBGBB 
GGGGGGGBGBBBBBBB 
GGG BGnGBBBGBBaa 
GBGGGGGGBBBBBBGB 
GGGGGGBGBGBBBBBB 
GGGBGGGGBBBBGBBB 
BGGGGGGGBBBBBBBG 
GGGGGBGGBBGBBBBB 

Fig. 7. 

GBBBBBBBGGGGGGGB 
BBBGBBBBC GGGBGGG 
BBBBBBGBGBGGGGGG 
BGBBBBBBGGGGGOBG 
BBBBGBBBnGGBGGGG 
BBBBBBBGBGGGGGGG 
BBGBBBBBGGGGrBGG 
BBBBBGBBGGBGGGGG 
GGGGGBGGBBGBBBBB 
GGBGGGGGBBBBBGBB 
GGGGGGGBGBBBBBBB 
GGGGBGGGBBBGBBBB 
GBGGGGGGBBBBBBQB 
GGGGGGBGBGBBBBBB 
GGGBGGGGBBBBGBBB 
BGGGGGGGBBBBBBBG 

Fl?. 8 



ble to arrange the base weaves in such 
positions that although there are four 
sections in each repeat of the weave, 
the two filling flush sections will be ex- 
actly alike and the two warp sections 
alike, whenever possible. 

This may perhaps be better under- 
stood by reference to Figs. 1 and 4. Fig. 
4, although composed of the same base 
weaves as Fig. 1, would not make as 
clean and even an appearance in the 
cloth as the latter. 



. A satin check made with Fig. 5 would 
be preferable to one made with Fig. 6, 
other conditions being equal. Both of 
these weaves are built up from broken 
crow weave bases and cut on all sides. 

Weave Fig. 7 would be preferable to 
weave Fig. 8. Both are made from the 
same 8-end satin weave bases, started 
in different relative positions. 
LOOM REQUIRED. 

Being woven white and with one 
count of filling only, a single box dobby 
loom is generally used when weaving 
these goods. The two base weaves, one 
warp flush and the other filling fiush,are 
seldom made on more than 8 ends and 
8 picks each, therefore a 16-harness 
dobby, with a selvedge motion extra, is 
large enough to allow ample scope for 
producing a variety of patterns. An 
18 or 20 harness dobby should be used 
if there is no selvedge motion on the 
loom. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

As the fabric considered is similar 
iu construction and finish to that de- 
scribed under "Herringbone Stripes," 
the carding and spinning data need not 
be repeated. 

Dyeing Particulars. 
BRONZE. 
Five per cent pyrol bronze; 5 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent salt. 
GREEN. 
Six per cent pyrol green G; 6 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent salt. 
BLUE. 
Six per cent pyrol blue B; 6 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent salt. 
OLIVE. 
Two per cent immedial indone B; 6 
per cent immedial yellow D; % Psr 
cent immedial catechine G; 9 per cent 
sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 
25 per cent salt. 

WINE. 
Eight per cent diamine Bordeaux 
B; 2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent 
salt. 

RED. 
Five per cent diamine fast red B B; 
2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent salt. 
NAVY BLUE. 
Eight per cent katigen indigo B; 8 
per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent salt. 
SLATE. 
One per cent thion black T B; 2 per 



290 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



cent sulphide sodium; 1 per cent soda 
ash; 10 per cent salt. 

SKY BLUE. 
One per cent diamine sky blue F F; 
1 per cent sal soda; 10 per cent salt. 
SEA GREEN. 
One-half per cent immedial green 
B; 1 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per 
cent soda ash; 10 per cent salt. 



NANKEEN, or NANKIN. 



Nankeen, or nankin, pronounced 
nan-ken, is a name given to a class of 
fabrics woven with the plain weave, 
the distinguishing effect of which is 
their peculiar yellowish brown color. 
This color is natural to the cotton of 
which they are made, the religiosum 
variety of the gossypium herbaceum 
class. 

The goods are worn by Chinese peo- 
ple in all parts of the world. 

The original nankeen fabric derived 
its name from Nanking, the ancient 
Chinese city, now known as the "south- 
ern capital," being first constructed 
there from a native cotton. The 
PURE NANKEEN FABRIC 
is finished and worn in the natural col- 
or and is of Chinese manufacture. The 
raw cotton is rough, short and hard 
to work, so much so that the supply 
of cotton of this type and color grown 
is not enough to supply the demand for 
the woven goods. For the last half 
century or more large quantities of so- 
called nankeen fabrics of British man- 
ufacture have been, and are being to- 
day, exported to China, the principal 
market for the same being at Canton. 
These goods are woven white and sub- 
sequently dyed the required color, dy- 
ers being able to imitate the qualities 
of the original nankeen color in all re- 
spects. 

KINO, 
pronounced ke-no, was one of the 
drugs formerly used for giving tne nan- 
keen color. Its chief component part 
is tannic acid. 

Nankeen fabrics, deriving their 
name more particularly from their pe- 
culiar color, are made to vary to some 
extent in counts of yarns and construc- 
tions of cloth, although being kept to 
medium counts and weights. 

A characteristic fabric is made as 
follows: Counts of warp, 26s; counts 
of filling, 22s; ends per inch, 68; picks 
per inch, 64; width, 27 inches finished. 

At the present time nankeen fabrics 



are not necessarily those made exclu- 
sively of cotton. A sample under con- 
sideration is made from silk scrapings 
or waste and cotton warp, mixed before 
going through the preparing machines, 
and silk waste filling. The mixed fibres 
in the warp appear later in the same 
yarn, the yarn being single spun. The 
fabric is very uneven, more so in the 
filling than in the warp, but quite un- 
even in both. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

Like other plain cloths, a light, quick 
running plain cam loom is used for 
their production. Woven a solid col- 
or, one warp and one shuttle only are 
required. The ends are reeded two in 
a dent throughout. 

FINISHING. 

Very little finishing is required for 
the pure goods. After being burled 
and brushed they are sheared or 
singed, or both, crabbed, washed 
dried, and made up as required. 

Imitation nankeens in addition to 
the above are subjected to the process 
of dyeing. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

For carding and spinning particu- 
lars, see article on "Tartan Plaids," 
the counts of yarns for nankeen being, 
similar to those explained in said ar- 
ticle. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

This class of goods is dyed on the- 
gigger dyeing machine in the open, 
width. The method of dyeing is to 
take the thoroughly boiled and wet out 
goods and roll smoothly on the first 
roll of the gigger. Sew the leaders on 
with smooth, flat seams, then fill the 
machine with water about six inches 
above the inside rolls; heat to the re- 
quired temperature and add % to % of 
the dissolved dye (for light shades it is 
best to add the color in four portions; 
for medium or dark shades, the dye 
may be added in two portions). Then 
start the machine and pass the cloth 
through the liquor on to the opposite 
roll, add more of the dye and return; 
repeat until shade desired is produced. 

A fine nankeen shade may be dyed 
with the following dyes: 

No. 1. Dye with 3 per cent extract 
fustic; 3 per cent alum. Boil together 
and add to dye bath in four portions, 
dyeing at 120 degrees F. 

No. 2. Dye with 1-10 per cent diam 
fast yellow B; 0.08 per cent diam cate- 
chine G; 0.015 per cent diam catechine 
B: 1 per cent soda; 2 per cent soap. 
Start dyeing at 100 degrees F., heating. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



291 



slowly to 180 degrees F., then add 5 
per cent Glauber's salts in two portions 
and run to shade. 

No. 3, Dye with 2 per cent immedial 
orange C; 1 per cent katigen brown 
G G; 3 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per 
cent Turkey red oil. Start dyeing at 
100 degrees F., heat to 180 degrees F. 
slowly, and run to shade. 



MDSLIN-Foundation Muslin. 



Foundation muslin is a fabric used 
to impart stiffness to parts of gar- 
ments, principally light-weight dresses 
of lawn or goods of similar character 
used for graduation and other purposes. 
It is loosely woven and of very light 
weight. The requisite body is impart- 
ed to it in the finishing process by one 
or more stiffening ingredients. 

The cloth is woven plain. The ends 
are drawn single through the heddlefe 
and reeded two in each dent, with the 
possible exception of the selvedge 
ends. 

The analysis of a characteristic foun- 
dation muslin shows the following da- 
ta: Ends per inch, 72; picks per inch, 
68; counts of warp, 110; counts of fill- 
ing, 120; finished width, 31i/^ inches; 
weight, 20 yards per pound. The sel- 
vedges consist of 12 ends of 60s yarn 
on each side, reeded 3 ends per dent. 
The counts of yarns here stated are as 
found in the finished cloth. All the 
yarns are somewhat hard twisted and 
are free from loose fibres. 

CALCULATIONS. 

311/^ inches times 36 equals 1,134 dents 
occupied by the warp; 1,134 minus 8 
for selvedges equals 1,126 dents; 1,126 
times 2 equals 2,252 ends of 110s warp; 
8 times 3 equals 24 ends of 60s warp; 
2,276, total ends. 

To find weight of warp in 100 yards 
of cloth, assuming 10 per cent contrac- 
tion in length from warp to cloth of 
the fine yarn and 5 per cent contrac- 
tion of the coarse yam: 



2,252 X 110 (length) 
110 (counts) X 840 
24 X 105 



2.681 pounds of 110s warp. 



= .05 pound of 60s warp. 

60 X 840 

2.681 pounds 110s. 
.05 pound 60s. 

2.731 pounds, total weight of warp. 

The 60s warp has been considered as 
having been run from spools, separate 
from the main warp. 



= 2.261 lbs. filling. 



To find weight of filling in 100 yards 
of cloth: 

72 (sley) — 1 = 71. 

71 divided by 2.1 (constant) = 83.82 dents per 
Inch In reed. 
1,134 divided by 33.82 = 33.53 In., width In reed. 

68 (picks) X 33.53 x 100 (length) 

120 (counts) X 840 

In the preceding calculation the gray 
and finished widths of che cloth have 
been assumed to be equal, the cloth 
having been stretched but little, and 
tentered to the full width, in the proc- 
ess of finishing. The finished width of 
most fabrics is less than the loom or 
gray cloth width, requiring that the 
difference between them be taken into 
consideration when ascertaining the 
amount of filling required. 

To find number of yards per pound: 

2.731 pounds warp. 
2.261 pounds filling. 

4.992 pounds, total weight. 
100 divided by 4.992 = say, 20 yards per pound. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

A light, fast running, single box cam 
loom is preferable for these goods, the 
ends being drawn through twine har- 
nesses on account of the large num- 
ber of ends and picks per inch and fine 
yarn. Being a very light sheer fabric, 
considerable care has to be taken with 
it in weaving to prevent misweaves of 
all kinds, particularly thick and thin 
places, and broken ends and picks. 
FINISHING. 

This process is really the one which 
makes the characteristic qualities of 
foundation muslin as distinct from 
other plain woven goods. A fabric of 
the construction mentioned, being sim- 
ilar in all respects except in the finish, 
would not be known by the same name 
if finished differently. In fact, many 
of the cotton fabrics derive their name 
from the finishing process to which 
they have been subjected, irrespective 
of the construction of the cloths. The 
purpose for which it is to be used de- 
termines, to a more or less degree, the 
construction and quality of plain wov- 
en cloths. 

Foundation muslins are usually wov- 
en in natural color, after which they 
are bleached and finished white, some- 
what as follows: Burl; singe, bleach, 
size with gum or gum "tragasol," con- 
dition, calender and make up. 

When required in colors, the goods 
are dyed in the piece. 



Dyeing Particulars. 
BLACK. 
Eight per cent union black S; 1 i>er 
cent, diamine fast yellow A; 30 per 



292 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda; 
2 per cent soap. Top with, alizarine 
black 4 B. 

SEA GREEN. 

One-half per cent diamine black H 
W; 4 ounces diamine fast yellow B; 
topped with new methylene blue N, 
new phosphine G. 

For 10 gallons dye liquor: 6 ounces 
soap; y2 ounce sal soda; 3 ounces 
phosphate soda. 

NAVY BLUE. 

Three per cent diamine dark blue 
B; 1 per cent diamine brilliant blue 
G; topped with new methylene blue N 
X; metaphenylene blue B; indigo 
blue N. 

PEARL. 

Two ounces diamine gray G; 1-16 
ounce diamine brown M; topped with 
aniline gray B. 

SLATE. 

Ten ounces diamine gray G; Vs 
ounce diamine brown M; topped with 
cyanol extra; orange extra. 

LIGHT MAUVE. 

One ounce diamine violet N; Vz 
ounce diamine brilliant blue G; 
topped with methyl violet B I. 

VIOLET. 

One per cent diamine violet N; % 
per cent diamine brilliant blue G; 
topped with methyl violet B I. 

PINK. 

Two per cent diamine rose B D; 
topped with rhodamine G. 

SKY BLUE. 

Four ounces diamine sky blue F F; 
topped with cyanol extra. 

LIGHT BROWN. 
One per cent diamine brown B; % 
per cent diamine yellow B; topped 
with Bismarck brown F F; thioflavine 
T. 

MYRTLE GREEN. 
Two per cent diamine black H W; 2 
per cent diamine green B; 1 per cent 
diamine fast yellow B; topped with 
brilliant green; new methylene blue 
N. 

CREAM. 
One-quarter ounce diamine gold; % 
ounce diamine orange B; 1-16 ounce 
diamine fast yellow B. 
STEEL. 
One-eighth ounce diamine gray G; 
topped with cyanol extra; aniline 
gray B. 



SILENCE CLOTH-Filling Backed 

Silence cloth, or table felting, is a 
heavy cotton fabric used to cover the 
table, under the linen cloth, for the 
purpose of preventing damage to the 
finish of the table and to make the 
cloth look whiter. 

Standard widths of these goods are 
54 and 64 inches. 

In order to make heavy, thick, firm 
fabrics it becomes necessary to depart 
from single cloth structures and intex'- 
lace the yarns on one or other of the 
compound weave principles, such as 
backed, double or heavier ply cloths. 
In these fabrics some of the yarns, 
while forming part of the structure, 
may appear only in the centre or the 
back, not showing on the face. 

THE SIMPLEST FORM 
of these is either a warp-backed or 
filling-backed fabric, the former of 
which was shown in the article on 
"Cotton Cassimeres." 

Filling-backed fabrics, especially 
those of the reversible type, i. e., those 



EDDD 

mmam 

DDDffl 
■DBB 



Fig. 1. 

with the face and back similar, that 
are made with filling fiush weaves, are 
excellently adapted for making silence 
cloths, because a heavy nap is required 
on both sides of the fabric and this 
can be obtained best by using soft 
yarn. The nap is obtained principal- 
ly with the filling yarns, which are 
soft and coarse, as warp yarn must 
have considerably more twist than is 
required for filling in order that it may 
withstand the wear and tear of the 
movements caused by the heddles and 
reed during weaving. 

Fig. 1 shows a weave for a filling- 
backed fabric with a — j twill on 

each side. Marks m represent the face 
weave; solid type represents the back 
weave. 

A cloth woven with this design 
would show the warp on both sides, 
when in the gray, but only one-half of 
the filling on each side. 

The individualities of the yams are 
lost in the finishing process; in silence 
cloths, therefore, such a cloth, if woven 
with Fig. 1, picked one pick white and 
one pick color, would have a white sur- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



293 



face on one side and a colored one on 
the other. As the loose fibres of the 
filling would practically cover the 
warp, the color of the latter would be 
of little consequence. On the score of 
economy it would be best to have it 
white. 

THE ANALYSIS 
of a silence cloth, before finishing, 
shows it to have been constructed as 
follows: Ends per inch, 68; picks per 
inch, 40 (20 on the face and 20 on the 
back); warp counts, 11.6, probably in- 
tended for 11.5; filling counts, 2%; 
width, 58 inches; weight, 1.45 pounds 
per yai'd; weave, Fig. 1. This cloth 
would finish 54 inches. 

The warp has contracted 18 per cent 
in length. The filling lies straight, 
showing little, if any, shrinkage from 
loom to cloth. It is soft-twisted, con- 
taining but five turns per inch. 

Very heavy silence cloths are con- 
structed on the dorblb or higher ply 
cloth principles. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

For weaving filling backed silence 
cloths a heavy loom is required. Al- 
though they may be woven on cam 
looms, a dobby would be preferable, un- 
less it was certain that the same pat- 
tern would be run on the loom contin- 
ually. One warp and one shuttle only 
are required. On account of the coarse 
filling and the width of the cloth, the 
shuttles should be large. 
FINISHING. 

The processes of bleaching and nap- 
ping constitute practically all the fin- 
ishing these goods receive, being wov- 
en and finished white. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Silence cloth is made up of yarns 
which are made in the first division of 
mills, as given in a previous article. 
The counts of yarn vary according to 
the weight of the cloth and in the 
sample that has been taken for de- 
scription are as follows, 11% s for fill- 
ing and 2.75s for warp. These yarns 
are soft twisted to allow them to be 
easily brushed so as to cause a short, 
soft nap. The yarns are made of short 
stock, but as a general rule waste (ex- 
cept cut roving waste) does not enter 
into the mixing. The staple used would 
be about % to % inch in length. The 
mixing should be large and at each 
mixing the cut roving waste laps 
should be mixed in. Mixing for this 
class of goods is done by hand and it 
is the general rule to work for produc- 
tion and not for quality, as a great 
many defects are covered up in the 
brushing of the cloth. 



TWO PROCESSES OF PICKING 
are used. The mixing after being al- 
lowed to stand is fed to the feeders. 
The seeds, fly, etc., should be taken 
out at regular intervals and care tak- 
en to see that the pin beater is prop- 
erly set so that the correct amount of 
cotton will be fed to the breaker pick- 
er, to which the opener is generally 
attached. The beater of this picker is 
generally of a two-bladed rigid type 
and for this stock its speed is 1,550 
revolutions per minute. The total 
weight of the lap at the front should 
be about 40 pounds or a 16i/^-ounce lap. 
At the finisher picker the doubling is 
four into one, the speed of the beater, 
1,500 revolutions per minute, and the 
total weight of the lap 39 pounds or a 
14%-ounce lap. A variation of not over 
8 ounces either side of standard total 
weight should be allowed. Care 
should be taken to see that the 
drafts are properly directed so as 
to make an even lap that does not have 
a tendency to split or lick up. The 
eveners should be properly looked af- 
ter to see that they are working prop- 
erly and the dirt, seed, etc., cleaned 
from under and about the machines at 
regular intervals. If possible the pick- 
ers should be run so that they may be 
stopped as early as possible in the 
week so as to clean out the cages and 
feed rolls, etc. 

AT THE CARDS 
the draft should not exceed 95 and the 
wire fillet used on the cylinder should 
be No. 90s and on the doffer and top 
flats No. 100s. Grind and clean cards 
as given in previous articles. The set- 
tings of the different parts of the cards 
should be the same as those given for 
indigo prints in a previous article. The 
weight of the sliver should be 65 
grains per j^ard and the production 
from 800 to 1,000 pounds per week of 
60 hours. For this class of goods two 
processes of di-awing frames are used. 
The frames may be fitted with either 
leather covered or metallic top rolls; 
generally speaking the former are pre- 
ferred for various reasons. The doub- 
lings are 8 into 1 and the weight of the 
sliver at the finisher drawing frame is 
75 grains per yard. The speed of the 
front roll is 400 revolutions per min- 
ute. 

At the slubber the sliver is made in- 
to .40 hank. For 

THE WARP YARN 
this is spun into 2.75 (single) soft 
twist. For the filling yarn there is one 
process of fly frame at which the slub- 
ber roving is made into 1.25 hank. The 
setting of the rolls should be looked 
after to see that they are properly 



294 



(■ A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



spread and that the top rolls are in 
good condition. The speeder or fly 
frames should be scoured at least once 
a year. After passing the fly frame 
the roving is made into 11.5s, being 
put in single, on a frame having a 
7-inch traverse, 1%-inch diameter ring 
and spindle speed of 6,500 revolutions 
per minute. This yarn is^ also soft 
spun. 



ORLEANS LININGS. 



Orleans linings comprehend a class 
•of goods, of various qualities and pat- 
terns, having a cotton v?arp and worst- 
ed filling. They are used principally 
for lining the heavier garments for 
outer and winter wear, and are seen 
in black and all the fashionable shades. 
A large proportion are made with the 
5-end twill, — - , ground. Fig. 1, the 
selvedge being woven plain, or with 

DDDDB 
DuDHQ 
QDaDD 

umaan 

■DDDD 

Fig. 1. 

two picks in a shed and catch thread 
■on the outside. 

The cheapest grades are woven 
white, then piece-dyed in solid colors. 
Better grades have warp dyed yarns, 
the filling in the same being woven 
white and dyed to match the warp after 
It leaves the loom. By this method 
cotton warp yarns of two colors may 
be used, say black and white, the black 
being used for the body of the cloth 
and the white for the selvedges, the 
dyes used for the wool not affecting the 
cotton to any appreciable extent. 

Advertising has educated the retail 




Fi£ 



dealers and consumers to the fact that 
cotton warp goods with a white sel- 
vedge, the ground being of color, are 
more to be depended upon not to 
crock than similar cloths of solid color. 
The worsted filling used is of a nat- 
urally lustrous type, which is capable 
of being made more lustrous by the 
finishing process. The yarns are re- 



quired to be of good quality in order 
to finish and make up satisfactorily. 
Fig. 2 illustrates a characteristic 
ORLEANS LINING, 
unfinished, containing three counts, 
colors and qualities of warp yarns. 
The ground warp is of a dark slate 
eolor (probably intended for black). 
This is of 30s counts, is reeded 3 ends 
per dent, and weaves as shown in Fig. 

1. The section just inside the selvedge 
is solid white, is of 3-ply 100s counts, 
is reeded 8 ends per dent, and weaves 
two picks in a shed; there are 24 white 
ends on each side. The selvedges prop- 
er consist of 16 ends of 3-ply 60s black 
cotton on each side and are reeded 4 
ends per dent; they weave plain. The 
selvedge ends are drawn 2 as 1 through 
each heddle; the remainder of the 
ends are drawn single. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

The construction of the cloth is 80 
square, i. e., 80 ends and SO picks per 
inch. 

The fabric under consideration, Fig. 

2, would require 9 harnesses, 5 for the 
ground, 2 for the white warp and 2 for 
the selvedges, and' could be handled 
best on a dobby loom. By exceptional 
care in beaming the yarn it would be 
possible to put the three counts of 
warp on the same beam, but it is not 
advisable to do so for various reasons. 
One is that the 3-lOOs yarn, being so 
crowded in the reed, would under nor- 
mal conditions take up faster than the 
ground warp and thereby become tight- 
er. Being 3-ply yarn of good quality it 
might stand the strain of weaving all 
right, but would not stretch to any ex- 
tent in finishing. If the ground cloth 
was stretched to its limit in finishing, 
the white yarn would be liable to break 
during that process. For the best 
results it would be advisable 
to run the white and selvedge 
yarns from spools, and the ground 
warp from the main beam. The 
white yarn should be run with a 
minimum amount of tension. 

The white ends in this sample are so 
crowded in the reed as to cover the 
filling entirely; these would show solid 
white even after the filling was dyed 
to match the ground warp. It is 
something out of the ordinary to have 
such an elaborate selvedge as this on 
a lining fabric, the general run of the 
goods having a solid color ground and 
a few white ends for selvedge. 
LOOM REQUIRED. 

For ordinary lining fabrics where 
the ground weave does not occupy 
more than 5 harnesses, a cam loom 
with a selvedge motion would be the 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



295 



best to use. A loom weaving 5 ends 
sateen could readily be changed over 
to weave a 5-end twill by changing the 
order of treading the cams, or, if the 
cams are cast in one piece, by chang- 
ing the order of tying up the har- 
nesses. ' One shuttle only is required. 
FINISHING. 
The finishing process consists of 
burling, singeing, crabbing, dyeing, 
drying and shearing and pressing on 
hydraulic press. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Orleans linings are made up of 
worsted and cotton yarns. The counts 
of these vary according to the grade of 
the lining desired. The cotton warp 
yarnsi of the sample analyzed are: 
main warp 30s, section just in- 
side the selvedges, 3-lOOs, and the sel- 
vedge itself 3-60s. These counts 
of yarn are made in the third division 
of mills as given in a previous article. 
While the count of the main yarn is 
only what may be called a medium 
count, still, it is made in mills where 
fine counts are made. It must be un- 
derstood that while the mills making 
fine count yarns may and do make low 
or coarse count yarns, the medium and 
low count mills cannot make high 
count yarns with equal success. 

FOR THE YARNS 
in the fabric to be described, three 
different lengths of staple cotton are 
used. These are mixed either by hand 
or with the bale breaker, the latter 
being the better method, because no 
matter how cloisely the laborers are 
watched, they do not break up the cot- 
ton as it should be done. The mixing 
should be allowed to stand as long as 
possible in order to dry out. Three 
processes of pickers are used and the 
same beater speed may be used for the 
three different lengths of staple. At the 
breaker picker a two-bladed beater of 
the rigid type is generally used. The 
speed of this beater is 1,500 revolutions 
per minute. Care should be taken to 
have the feed rolls and cages taken 
out and cleaned at regular intervals, 
which should be as frequently asi possi- 
ble. Be careful to get a lap that 
does not split. The weight of the lap 
at the breaker picker should be about 
40 pounds for all three staples. At 
THE INTERMEDIATE PICKER 
the laps are doubled 4 into 1. The 
speed of this beater is 1,450 revolutions 
per minute. The weight of the lap at 
the front is 37i/^ pounds. At 
the finisher picker the laps are 
doubled 4 into 1. and the speed of the 



beater is 1,400 revolutions per minute. 
The total weight at the front may be 
the same for all staples or they may 
have different weights.according to the 
ideas of the ones in charge. If of dif- 
ferent weights, the weight of the lap 
for the 30s yarn, which would be 
made out of 1% to 1 3-16 inch staple 
cotton, would be 39 pounds or a 14^^- 
ounce lap; for the 60s yarn (1 3-16 to 
1 5-16 inch staple), 35 pounds or a 12i/^- 
ounce lap; and for the 100s yarn (1% to 
1% inch staple), 35 pounds or a 12i^- 
ounce lap. The staples of cotton giv- 
en above are for the fabric under de- 
scription and do not apply to all fab- 
rics made up of the same counts of 
yarn. Look out for the drafts and 
see that the required number of laps 
are always up at the differenit process- 
es and also that 

THE EVENING MOTIONS 

are in perfect working order. A vari- 
ation of half a pound either side of the 
standard weight is allowed, but all 
laps that vary more than this should 
be run over again through the finisher 
picker. Look out to see that the pick- 
er tender on the finishers does not pull 
enough lap off of a heavy lap to make 
it the required weight. Enough laps 
should be made between Monday and 
Friday noontime to enable the cards 
to be run the rest of the week. 
This is so that the picker men may 
have time to clean the pickers and 
make all repairs on the machines that 
are required. 

THE CARDS 
should be equipped with fine counts of 
wire fillet. The draft at the card for 
the 30s yarn should not exceed 95, for 
the 60s 100, and for the 100s not less 
than 100. The fiats for the coarser 
yarn should make one complete revo- 
lution every 55 minutes, for the mid- 
dle count in 50 minutes, and for the 
fine count in 40 minutes. Grind, strip 
and set as described in previous arti- 
cles when these counts of yarns have 
been described. The weight per yard 
of the sliver should be 45 grains and 
the production 800 pounds for the 
1 3-16-inch staple, 700 pounds for 
1 5-16-inch staple and 550 pounds for 
1%-inch staple for a week of 60 hours. 
All the card sliver for this fabric is 
combed. It is 

THE GENERAL METHOD 

to run the cotton in succession through 
the following machines: sliver lap, 
ribbon lap and comber, but a great 
many mill men nowadays prefer the 
following arrangement: one process 
drawing frame, sliver lap and comber. 



296 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



If the former method is used, the dou- 
bling at the sliver lap machine (for 
an 8%-inch width lap) is 14 into 1, and 
at the ribbon lap machine 6 into 1. The 
weight of the lap at the sliver lap 
machine is 295 grains per yard, and at 
the ribbon lap machine 275 grains per 
yard for 1 3-16-inch staple, 290 grains 
at sliver lap and 275 grains at ribbon 
lap for 1 5-16-inch stock and 280 grains 
and 265 grains for 1%-inch stock. Size 
at riboon lap once a day, an allowance 
of five grains either side of standard 
weight being allowed before changing 
draft g-ear. At the comber the dou- 
bling is according to tne number of 
heads that comber contains (6 or 8). 
The usual setting and timings should 
be used. The percentage of waste taken 
out at the comber is as follows: 15 for 
1 3-16, 16 for 1 5-16 and 18 to 20 for 1% 
inch stocks. 

TWO PROCESSES OF DRAWING 

are used, the doubling at the breaker 
being 8 into 1, and at the finisher 6 
into 1. The weight of the sliver at the 
finisher drawing is 70 grains per yard 
for all the cotton. Size drawings four 
times a day, an allowance of 2 grains 
per yard either side of standard weight 
being allowed, before changing draft. 
At the slubber the sliver is made into 
.60 hank roving for all stocks. 

To make 30s yarn the cotton is put 
through two processes of fly frames. At 
the first intermediate, the hank roving 
made is 2, and at thefine frame 6. This 
is made into 30s yarn on a warp spin- 
ning frame with a 2%-inch traverse, 
1%-inch diameter ring, and a 6%-inch 
traverse. The yarn is then spooled, 
warped and put through the slashers. 

THE SLUBBING ROVING 
for the 60s yarn is put through three 
processes of fly frames, the hank rov- 
ing being 1 at first intermediate, 3 at 
second intermediate and 12 at jack 
frame. This is spun into 60s yarn on a 
frame having the following particulars: 
1%-inch diameter ring, 6-inch traverse, 
and spindle speed 10,000 revolutions 
per minute. 

The yarn is then spooled, made into 
3-ply yarn, spooled and run on to a sel- 
vedge warp. 

The slubber roving for 100s yarn is 
also put through three processes of 
fly frames. At the first intermediate it is 
made into 2 hank, at the second into 6 
hank, and at the fine or jack frame, 20 
hank roving. This is spun into 100s 
on a spinning frame having a 2%-inch 
gauge, 1%-inch diameter ring, 5-inch 
traverse and a spindle speed of 9,400. 

After being made into 100s yarn it is 
spooled and twisted into three-ply yarn, 



after which it is spooled and warped 
and put through a slasher. 

At the sliver lap machine, ribbon lap 
machine, comber and drawing frame 
the leather top rolls have to be varnish- 
ed, and should be kept in perfect con- 
dition, both as to varnish and leather. 

THE VARNISH USED 
for the comber rolls should be of a 
heavier or rougher kind than that 
used for the other rolls. Several recipes 
for varnish have been already given, 
but the following will also be 
found to be an excellent one: For 
comber rolls use 8 ounces plate glue, 8 
ounces ground gelatine, 12 ounces 
burnt sienna, 1 ounce oil originum, 3 
pints acetic acid, 1 pint water. For the 
other rolls use the same mixture, ex- 
cepting that vermilion should be used 
instead of the burnt sienna. This 
will make a much smoother roll than 
the varnish used for the combers. 
Many also varnish the front rolls of 
the slubber; when this is done the var- 
nish used should be thinner than the 
others, being thinned with the acetic 
acid. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

Dyeing Orleans linings, as in all 
other classes of goods, is done in a 
good many ways, according to the qual- 
ity and the price the goods are sold at. 
A fine quality black Orleans is woven 
with a black warp, which will stand 
the after processes of finishing and 
dyeiflg, which are crabbing, scouring, 
singeing and steam lustring; then dye- 
ing either with a logwood black on a 
chrome mordant or one of the blacks 
which dyes the worsted filling at one 
dip in an acid bath. If the goods have 
white cotton threads in the selvedges, 
the dyer will select one of the blacks 
which have no afiinity for cotton in the 
acid bath. Dyestuffs suitable for the 
warps on this class of goods are 

THE SULPHUR BLACKS, 
which are sold under several names, 
but all dye in the same manner in a 
bath composed of the dye, sodium 
sulphide, soda ash and common salt or 
Glauber's salts. Another black suit- 
able for this class of goods is the dia- 
mine blacks, developed. These blacks 
are dyed in the following manner: first 
the warps are dyed in a boiling batn 
with the diamine black and Glauber's, 
then treated in a cold bath with ni- 
trite of soda and muriatic acid, then 
in a third cold bath with phenylenedia- 
mine. Fast slate shades are dyed the 
same as the blacks, only using about 
half the proportion of dyes and shad- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



2y7 



ing with small portions of red or yel- 
low of the same group of dyes. Or- 
leans 

FOR FANCY COLORS 

are woven with white cotton warps 
and worsted filling, which are dyed 
either with the direct colors, which 
dye the cotton and worsted at one bath, 
or the four-bath method. The first 
method consists in dyeing in a bath 
composed of the direct cotton dyes and 
wool dyes which dye in a neutral bath 
with Glauber's salts at boil. The sec- 
ond method is to first dye the worsted 
filling with aniline dyes in a bath 
with acid and Glauber's salts. Wash 
well. Then treat the warps with tan- 
nic acid, or sumac, in a cold bath; then 
in a third bath, with tartar emetic, 
or one of the antimony salts; then in 
a fourth bath dye the warp to shade 
with basic dyestuff. The dyeing of this 
class of goods, like that of all other 
goods dyed in the piece, requires con- 
siderable practice and skill. 



SHADOW CHECKS. 



Shadow checks are a class of pat- 
terns of set check or block effects 
•of a very faint character. Viewed from 
certain directions, they appear to have 
a faint stripe or to be without pattern 
entirely. They are seen in apparel 
goods of various materials, from silk to 
cotton, and usually in plain, simple 
twill, or other small regular weave. 
The goods are always shown in white, 
black or solid color. 

Shadow checks are the faintest check 
■effects that appear in woven goods and 
are made by arranging a certain num- 
ber of ends of yarn twisted to the 
right and a certain number twisted to 
the left, and picking the filling in a 
similar manner. For example, a shad- 
ow check of the shepherd plaid type, 
i. e., a check with alternate blocks of 
equal size, might have the warp yarns 
arranged 10 ends of right twist and 10 
ends of left twist alternately, the fill- 
ing being inserted 10 picks of right 
twist and 10 pickb of left twist. 

A MODIFICATION 

of this might be made by arranging the 
yarns in both warp and filling, 4 right 
twist, 2 left twist, 4 right, 4 left, 2 
right, 4 left; 20 ends and 20 picks per 
pattern. 
As the yarns are all of the same 



counts, material, quality and color, and 
are reeded equally, it follows that 
something out of the ordinary causes 
the check effect. It is an optical illu- 
sion, due to the reflection of the light 
that falls upon the fabric being de- 
flected at a different angle in the sec- 
tions composed of right twist yams to 
the sections composed of the reverse 
twist yarns. 

In a shadow check of the shepherd 
plaid type under consideration, the 
face yarns are arranged 16 of each 



Fig. 1. 

twist alternately in both warp and fill- 
ing. The face weave is the 4-end bas- 
ket. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

These goods require box looms of 
the simplest type, with two boxes at 
one end and a single box at the other. 

The manner of preparing the warps 
determines to some extent the type of 
shedding motion to use, whether cam 
or dobby. As the finished fabrics are 
required to be in one solid color, and 
some warp yarns differ from others 
only in the direction of twist m the 
same, care has to be exercised to keep 
the yarns where they belong and to 
tie in the right twist when an end 
breaks. 

ONE OF TWO METHODS 
may be adopted to assist in keeping 
the yarns in order: . 

First, tint the yarns of one twist 
with a light substance that may be no- 
ticeable in the loom and yet wash out 
readily before it is dyed, the other 
warp varus being in the gray. By this 
method the warp yarns may all be 
readily drawn on one beam, and wov- 
en on a cam loom. . 

Second, place the different twists of 
yarns on separate beams and draw 
them through separate sections of har- 
nesses. When this method is adopted 
it is advisable to use the dobby in pref- 
erence to cams on account of the num- 
ber of harnesses required. 

Two colors or kinds of bobbins 
should be used, one for each kind of 
twist, so that the filling will not be li- 
able to get mixed; or if cops without 
tubes are used, the shuttles should be 
marked so as to be easily distin- 
guished. Tubes of different colors can 
be used if the cops are built on tubes. 

IMITATIONS 
of shadow checks have been shown to 
some extent in cotton warp and mo- 



298 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



hair or lustre worsted filling goods. 
These are made with the warp yarn all 
the same twist, the shadow effect, warp 
way, being obtained by reeding some 
dents with more ends than others. 

In a fabric of the type of goods un- 
der consideration, the yarns are ar- 
ranged as follows: 









WARP. 




Beds. 




Dents. 




1« 


in 






1 








IS 








1 








10 








1 








10 








1 








10 








4 








10 








4 








10 








1 








10 








1 








10 








1 






Total, 


121 1 


ends 


in 68 dents, per pattern, 
FILLING. 


Right twist 


yarn, 


. Left twist yarn. 


10 






6 


10 









62 



62 = 124 picks per pattern. 



As these fabrics are characterized by 
the pattern, the constructions of the 
cloths vary considerably. The fabric 
under consideration contains an aver- 
age of about 55 1-3 ends' per inch of 
2-120s cotton, the same twist through- 
out. Each pattern contains 121 ends 
and measures 2 3-16 inches; 121 divided 
by 2 3-16 equals 55 11-35 or 55 1-3 per 
inch. 

There are 48 picks of worsted per 
inch. 

Shadow stripes are made by using only 
one kind of filling, the warp yarns 
being arranged as in shadow checks, 
with the take-up of the cloth regular. 
An irregular take-up would make a 
check effect. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The carding and spinning data for 
this class of fabric are those given in 
the article on batiste and need not be 
repeated here. 



cent Glauber's salt and run at a tem- 
perature of 190 degrees F. until the 
wool is dark enough, when the steam 
is turned off and the bath cooled down 
and the goods run until the cotton 
warp is dyed to shade. 

LIGHT PINK. 
One-half to 2 ounces erika pink. 

BLACK. 
Five per cent union black S B. 

LIGHT BLUE. 
Dye as pink, with i/^ to 1 ounce tetra- 
zo brilliant blue 6 B. 

LIGHT SLATE. 
Two ounces diamine black B H; dye 
as pink. 

RED. 
One-half pound benzo fast red 4 B; 
dye as pink. 

YELLOW, 
Dye as pink. Eight ounces chryso- 
phenine. 

ORANGE. 
Dye as pink. One pound Mikado 
orange B, 

SCARL^ET. 
Dye as pink. One pound diamine 
scarlet B. 

LIGHT WINE. 
Dye as pink. One pound diamine 
Bordeaux B. 

LIGHT AMBER BROWN. 
Four ounces diamine catechine G; 
4 ounces diamine fast yellow B; dye 
as pink. 

TOBACCO BROWN. 
One-half pound diamine brown B; 
2 ounces diamine fast yellow B; dye as- 
pink. 

LIGHT TAN. 
Dye as pink; 4 ounces diamine 
bronze G; 2 ounces diamine fast yel- 
low B. 

LIGHT GREEN. 
Dye as pink; 10 ounces diamine 
green G; 5 ounces diamine fast yel- 
low B. Top with fresh bath; 6 ounces 
brilliant green G. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

These goods are dyed with 30 



per 



BARATHEA. 

Barathea, or barrathea, is a 
name used to denote a certain 
effect in woven fabrics, obtained prin- 
cipally by the manner in which the 
warp yarns are interlaced. 

The effect combines to a greater or 
less degree several well-known types of 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



299 



woven effects. Viewed in certain ways 
the effect is tliat of a stripe. Upon 
close examination it appears like a 
broken cord, and yet somewhat like 
a basket weave. 

An examination of Fig. 2, the weave 
will reveal how these effeiots are ob- 
tained. This weave is complete on 24 
ends and four picks, having been 
repeated in the picks. At the 
points indicated by the space there 
is a break in the regular formation 
of the pattern, caused by one section, 
which is in all resipects like the other, 
in so far as the effect it makes is con- 
cerned, being raised half way of one 



DBDBDa DBDBUHaaaBDa DBDBDB 
GBaPDB DDBDBDBDBDBa DBOBaB 
BDBDBD ■DSaBDBDBDBa BnBDBD 
BaBDaa □BDBDHDBaPDB BDBDBD 
DBDBDB DBDBDDDBDBDB DBDBDB 
DBDBDB BDBDQDBDDDBD DBDBDB 
BDBDBD BDBDBDDDaDBD BDBDBD 
BDBnBD DBDDDBDBDBDB BDBDBD 
ABA 



Fig. 2 



Fig. 3. 



□BDBDBDBDBDB 
DBDBDBDBDBDB 
DBDBDBDBDBDB 
DBDBDBDBDBgB 
DBDBDBgBDBDB 
DBaBDBDBDBDB 
BDBDBDBDBDBD 
BDBDBD BDBDBD 
BDBDBDBDBDBD 
BDBDBDBDBDBD 
BDBDBDBDBDBq 
BDBDBDBDBDBD 
4 times equals 
48 ends 



DBDBDBDBOBDB 
DBDBDBDBDBDB 
DBDBDBDBDBDB 
BDBDBDBDBDBD 
BDBDBDBDBDBD 
BDBDBDBDBDBD 
■DBDBDBDBDBG 
■DBDBDBDBDBD 
BDBDBDBDBDBD 
DBDBDBDBDBDB 
DBDBDBDBDBDB 
DBDBDBDBDBDB 
4 times equals 
48 ends 



Fig'. 4. 



bsbsb:b!b:b: b:b5b:bsb:b: 

B:b:B!B5B!Q! -HiBBgrBBBK 

■DBDBDBOBDBD 
JDBDBDBDBDBD 
DBDBDBDBDBDB 
OBDBDBGBDBQB 



^___„ IDI. 

IDBDBDBDBDBD 
IDBDBDBDBDBD 

■DBDBDBDI. 

IDBDBDBDBDBD 



Fig. 5. 

cord above the other, or, as it is 
termed, one section is "set across" the 
other. It is at these points that a cut 
effect is obtained, which defines the 
stripe warp way. One repeat of the 
weave, in the number of picks it con- 
tains, is represented in the cloth by 
two repeats of the effect, or two cords 
warp way. 

Section A, or B, of Fig. 2 is simply 
repeats of warp cord weaves. Bach 
section represents six repeats of the 
two end cord. Fig. 3, and if woven 
alone would form an unbroken cord or 
rep effect across the cloth. The great- 
er the number of ends in each section 
of the weave, as compared with the 
number of picks, the more pronounced 
will be the cord appearance. The 
nearer square the complete pattern 



appears in the cloth, the more will it 
resemble a basket effect. 

The patterns vary from square to 
effects several times longer filling way 
than length way of the cloth. 

When constructing cloths with warp 





cord weaves, of which barathea 
weaves are an extension, considera- 
bly more ends than picks per inch are 
required, the object being to cover the 
filling yarns entirely. 

Barathea fabrics in all-silk, or with 
silk warp and cotton filling, are ex- 



300 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



tensively used in the manufacture of 
gentlemen's neckties. They are usual- 
ly shown in white, black, solid and 
staple colors, although occasionally 
made in more than one color. 

Ihe construction of two of these 
fabrics is as follows: White, fine 
siilk warp and spun silk filling, 
weave, Pig. 2; 280 ends and 72 
picks per inch; 23 1-3 ribs per inch. 
Black, fine silk warp, ply cotton 
filling, weave. Fig. 4; 480 ends and 
100 picks per inch; 10 ribs per 
inch. They are seldom made with 
larger effects than this for tie silks. 

Baratheas are excellent wearing fab- 
rics, the yarns exposed to wear, the 
warp yarns, being necessarily fine and 
of good quality. They are made to 
differ in the sizes of ribs used, small 
effects being used more than large 
ones. The size is regulated by one 
or both of two factors; first, the num- 
ber of ends and picks in a repeat of 
the weave; second, the number of 
ends and picks per inch, of yarn in 
the cloth. Figs. 2, 4 and 5 are the 
weaves generally used, the number of 
ends in each section varying accord- 
to requirements. 

The two sections comprising the re- 
peat, no matter how many ends used, 
usually contain an equal number of 
ends. 

With the weaves already noted the 
effect produced on the backof the cloth 
is an exact duplicate of that on the 
face. A modification or extension of 
these weaves, used principally in the 
larger effects, is shown in Figs. 6 and 
7. 

The solid marks in Fig. 6 indicate 
a weave that would form an effect on 
the face of the cloth similar to that 
made with weave Fig. 4. These repre- 
sent where the warp would show on 
the face, coming together and covering 
the raisers indicated by the crosses. 
The latter indicate a broken plain 
weave on the back. 

Fig. 7 would make the same face ef- 
fect in the cloth as Fig. 4, if woven 
with the same construction, but the 
back of the cloth would show a broken 
twill effect. A firmer fabric would be 
produced with weaves 6 and 7 than 
with No. 4, with the same amount of 
material. 

Further extensions of these weaves 
are illustrated in Figs. 8, 9, 10 and 11. 

The patterns indicated may be wov- 
en on ordinary single box silk dobby 
looms. If two colors are used in the 
same fabric they are arranged in the 
warp. As the warp covers the filling 
there is nothing to be gained by us- 
ing more than one color of filling. 



LOOP OR KNO CLOTH. 



Loop or kno cloths are character- 
ized by small loops of warp yarn pro- 
jecting from the face of the cloth, usu- 
ally in set, regular order. 

They are novelties, not standard 
goods, and as such are not limited to 
any one construction, quality or ma- 
terial. They are generally made with 
cotton, wool or silk yarns. The 
yarns forming the loops are used for 
ornamental purposes only. 

Fig. 1 is an example of a loop pat- 
tern on a H_ twill ground. The 
loop yarns in this particular instance 



Fig. 1. 

are arranged as extras, not showing 
on the face of the cloth, except where 
they are required to form the loops. 
l<igs. 2, 3 and 4 show the weave, har- 
ness draft and chain draft respectively 
to produce Fig. 1. The ground ends 
are drawn through harnesses 1, 2, 3 
and 4, and the loop yams through 5, 6, 
7 and 8. The weave is complete on 52 
ends and 60 picks, including 4 wire 
picks. 

THE LOOP YARNS 

weave — , except where they are re- 
quired to loop, and are tied between 
two face ends raised on opposite 
sides of the ties. Crosses in Fig. 2 
show where the loop yarns are raised 
over the wires to form the loops. Cir- 
cles indicate tying points, two ends 
working together as one. Crosses in 
Fig. 4 indicate where the wires go be- 
tween the warp yarns in place of the 
regular shuttle. All the face warp is 
down, and the take-up motion of the 
loom is stopped on these picks. 



A COTTON FABRICS G-LOSSARY. 



301 



THE CONSTRUCTION 
-of sample Pig. 1 is 85.8 ends and 66 
picks per inch, average. Tlie ground 
cloth is 66 square and there are 12 
loop or extra ends to every 40 ground 
ends. The warp is all two-ply yarn of 
similar count. The filling is single 
yarn. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 
Loop effects may be woven on loop 
pile carpet looms, or on ordinary dob- 
by or jacquard looms provided with 



tie, on the picks required to form the 
loops, on the principle applied when 
making loop pile carpets. These wires 
are automatically withdrawn after 
the ground filling has secured the 
loops. 

Oloth illustrated in Fig. 1 has 
been made on this principle. Two 
extra spools or beams have been used, 
one for ends on 5 and 6, and one for 
ends on 7 and 8. 

Tbird. Tbe loop yarns are allowed 




special mechanisms or attachments, 
and beam stands, upon which one or 
more extra beams may be placed, vary- 
ing according to requirements. The 
loop yarns take up faster, and more 
intermittently, than the ground yarns, 
requiring a greater length of warp for 
a given length of cloth. 
There are 

VARIOUS METHODS 

by which the loops may be obtained, 
each of which requires different at- 



to come off the warp beam at about 
the same tension as the ground ends, 
except on the picks when they are re- 
quired to loop, when they are forced 
forward a greater length by a posi- 
tive motion. On these picks the yarns 
are eased after the shuttle has cross- 
ed the shed, and the shed closed before 
the reed reaches the fell of the cloth. 
This is, perhaps, the simplest method. 
Fourth. The loops may be made on 
a loom with a terry reed motion (see 
article on terry toweling), but this 





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tachments. Some of these are as fol- 
lows: 

First. The loop yarns are arranged 
to work gauze or leno in connection 
with wires fastened to one or more 
of the harness frames. These yarns 
go from one side to the other of the 
wires and as the cloth is drawn down, 
slide over and away from them and 
are left in loops. 

Second. Wires are inserted across 
the cloth in place of the regular shut- 



is liable to make the cloth look barry 
where the three picks are beaten up 
together, as the ground ends offer con- 
siderably more resistance than on an 
ordinary terry towel fabric, there be- 
ing only a relatively sm.all portion of 
the ends weaving terry. 



Dyeing Particulars. 
LIGHT SLATE. 
One per cent diamine black B H; 1 



302 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's salt. 

ECRU. 

One-half per cent diamine catechine 
G; 1/4 per cent diamine fast yellow B; 

1 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

NAVY BLUE. 

Eight per cent immedial new blue 
G; 10 per cent sodium sulphide crys- 
tals; 2 per cent caustic soda lye, 75 
degrees Tw.; 30 per cent Glauber's. 

BOTTLE GREEN. 

Eight per cent diamine black H W; 

2 per cent diamine fast yellow B; 2 





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per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's salt. 

GRAY. 

One per cent immedial black N L N; 
1 per cent sodium sulphide; i/^ per 
cent caustic soda solid; 20 per cent 
salt. 

MAROON. 

Five per cent immedial maroon B; 
6 per cent sodium sulphide; 1 per cent 
caustic soda solid; 20 per cent salt. 

MODE. 
One per cent immedial brown B V; 
1 per cent immedial yellow D; 2 per 
cent sodium sulphide; % per cent 
caustic soda solid; 20 per cent salt. 

GREEN. 
Eight per cent immedial green G G; 
10 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per 



cent caustic soda solid; 20 per cent 
salt. 

BLACK. 
Six per cent para diamine black B 
B; 2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent 
salt. 

RED. 
Five per cent diamine fast red F; 2 
per cent sal soda; 20 per cent salt. 

PEA GREEN. 
One-half per cent diamine green G; 
1 per cent sal soda; 10 per cent salt. 

SKY BLUE. 
One per cent diamine sky blue P F; 
1 per cent sal soda; 15 per cent salt. 



CREPOHS. 



These fabrics are made up of a 
combination of cotton worsted, or 
cotton, worsted and silk. The goods 
are usually piece dyed and used prin- 
cipally for ladies' wear in the form of 
skirts. The character of the patterns 
for these fabrics is such that the best 
effects can only be obtained with the 
use of the jacquard loom. In this 
treatise we will consider the fabric as 
woven on the harness loom. The har- 
ness loom is utilized either because 
the manufacturer has no jacquard 
loom on hand or wishes to reduce 
the cost of weaving. 

THE WEAVE 
for these fabrics is based on the dou- 
bled cloth system. Under the head of 
doubled cloth we comprehend the 
combining of two separate textures in- 
to one fabric requiring separate warp 
and filling threads for each texture. 
Combining the two textures into 
one fabric is effected by interlacing 
the warp or filling threads, or both, cf 
one texture into those of the other at 
regular intervals. 

The pattern being effected with the 
warp and filling of one system of 
threads forms a raised figure on the 
face of the goods. This raised figure 
depends as much on the nature of the 
yarn as it does on the weave. The 
cotton in the goods is principally used 
as a back for the raised figure; the 
worsted forms the figure. If silk is 
used, the silk forms the figure and the 
worsted or wool goes into the body of 
the goods, and in the finishing of the 
fabric contracts considerably, thus ac- 
centuating the figure. 

In a foregoing paragraph it was 



A COTTON FABRICS' GLOSSARY. 



i03 



suggested that the best effects are 
only obtainable with the use of the 
jacquard loom, by reason of the fact 
that the patterns are too large to be 



some very clever effects. The variety 
in regard to texture in these fabrics 
can be comprehended best by compar- 
ing several fabrics of different tex- 




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operated on the harness loom, and 
as a rule the quality of the fabric is 
not made as fine as the jacquard loom 
fabric; however, a harness loom that 
can operate 24 harnesses can produce 



tures. Some idea may be obtained by 

the following constructions. 
A texture for a cheap grade crepon: 
"Width in reed, 56 inches; finished at 

52 inches; warp plan, one end face 



304 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



warp, 2-32S mohair, 1 end back warp, 
2-50S cotton; 15x4 reed; filling, l-30s 
cotton filling; 60 picks. 

A better grade may be made with 
the same warp plan, by using one pick 



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worsted to alternate with one pick cot- 
ton. The worsted will be face filling. 
The character of the pattern' for 
this grade of crepon may be any con- 
ventionalized figure, arranged usually 
in some zigzag manner, imitating as 
much as possible the larger patterns 
made on jacquard looms. The raised 
figure or blister effect covers as much 



space or divides equally with the- 
ground in most fabrics of the cheaper 
grades. In the better grades there is 
visually more figure than ground. Pig. 1 
shows a design illustrating the crepon 
weave and proportion of figure to 
ground for fabrics on 20 to 24 harness- 
es. Fig. 2 shows the drawing-in draft. 

A texture for a fine grade of crepon 
that may be woven either on the jac- 
quard or harness loom: 

Warp arrangement, 4 ends face 
warp, 2 ends in 1 heddle, 1% dram 
silk; 20x3 reed; 1 end back warp, 2- 
60s cotton; filling 3 picks, 1 dram 
silk, 1 pick, 2-30s worsted; 80 picks 
per inch, 60 face picks, 20 back picks. 

This construction can be made up 
to the best advantage, in regard to 
pattern, with the jacquard loom. 

In finishing the cheaper grades, 
wherein the fabric is made up of cot- 
ton and worsted, the cotton yarn is 
dyed before' it reaches the loom. 
After the fabric is woven it is dyed 
for the worsted. The prevailing color 
for these fabrics is solid black. The 
worsted in the goods contracts con- 
siderably during the finishing, produc- 
ing the blister effect by which the 
goods are characterized. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Crepon is made up in many differ- 
ent ways and out of different fibres, 
sometimes wool and 'cotton yarns be- 
ing employed. Other combinations 
are cotton and silk, wool and worsted, 
all wool, all worsted, all cotton, etc. 
When the same fibre is used through- 
out the cloth, the twist put in the yarn 
plays a very important part. For ex- 
ample, one yarn, generally the warp, 
is very tightly twisted, while the fill- 
ing yarn is stock twisted. When the 
cloth constructed from these yarns is 
dyed, the action of the dye on the 
yarns is entirely different and con- 
tracts one more than the other, thus 
causing the raised or puffed effect of 
crepon. 

ANOTHER METHOD 
used is to have part of the warp yarn 
with the regular twist, while another 
part has a reverse twist put 
in, the effect produced being 
the same as before. In the 
cloth under description the back- 
ing or picking warp is to be 2-60s cot- 
ton yarn. To produce this yarn the 
mechanics' data, etc., required would 
be as follows: The mixing should be 
as large as possible and should be al- 
lowed to stand at least 4S hours be- 
fore being used, so that the cotton will 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



305 



have become thoroughly expanded be- 
fore being used. 

THE COTTON 
should be of a good middling grade 
and of 1 5-16-inch staple. The raw 
stock is passed through an opener 
and three processes of picking. The 
hopper of the opener should be kept 
full of cotton, a small percentage of 
good waste from the machines up to 
the slubber being put in at this ma- 
chine. The speed of the beater, 
which is generally of the two-bladed, 
rigid type, should be at least 1,500 
revolutions per minute. The weight 
of the lap at the front end should be 
40 pounds, or a 16-ounce lap (the total 
weights given are for a lap 40 yards 
in length). Four of these laps are 
put up at the intermediate picker and 
run through and made into a lap 
weighing 38 pounds, or a 10-ounce lap. 
The speed of the beater for this ma- 
chine is 1,450 revolutions per minute. 
These laps are in turn put up at the 
back of 

THE FINISHER PICKER. 

The speed of this beater is 1,350 to 
1,400 revolutions per minute. The 
weight of the lap at the front is 39 
pounds, or a 14i^-ounce lap. Every lap 
should be weighed and all laps varying 
more than one-half a pound from the 
standard should be put to the back of 
the finisher picker and run through 
again. It is very important to see 
that this is done, because nothing 
will throw yarn numbers off more 
quickly than laps that vary. 

Another important question in the 
picker room is what to do with the 

CUT ROVING "WASTE. 
Of course, the best thing to do is not 
to make it. As it is made, the next 
question is how to use it up. Up-to- 
date mills are installing a cut roving 
waste machine in their plants, but 
there are a great many mills which 
have no such machine. In this case 
the waste is put through the interme- 
diate picker, the two centre laps at 
the back of the picker being removed 
and the waste spread evenly between 
the two ■ remaining laps. To help 
stop these laps from licking, four or 
six ends of slubber roving are run in- 
to the lap at the front end of the pick- 
er. These laps are run. in with the 
raw stock laps at the back of the fin- 
isher picker in the proportion of one 
lap of cut waste to three laps of cot- 
ton as long as they last. As little cut 
waste should be run as possible be- 
cause it not only causes licking laps, 
but it 



CAUSES UNEVEN WORK 
and weak roving and yarn; it is con- 
tinually breaking back in the creels, 
requiring one and sometimes two 
teeth of twist more than when not 
used. The laps from the picker are 
put up at the card, the setting of 
which should be the same as given in 
previous articles when the same grade 
and staple of cotton were used. The 
speed of the flats should be one com- 
plete revolution every 37 minutes. 
The speed of the licker-in should be 
300 revolutions per minute. The pro- 
duction should be about 550 pounds for 
a week of 60 hoxirs. Wiatch all the 
setting points. Set at least once a 
month all over. Grind cards lightly 
and often. Strip three times a day 
and keep cards as clean as possible 
and well oiled. Doff cans when full 
and don't allow them tO' become so 
full that they fall over. Care should 
be taken that no single or double is 
allowed to pass through. 
Th© 

DRAFT OF THE CARD 
for this kind of work should not be 
less than 100 and the sliver should 
weigh 50 grains. This sliver may be 
either combed or passed directly to 
the drawing frame. Generally, how- 
ever, it is combed. Different methods 
and machines are used nowadays 
for combing, but the general method 
is to have the card sliver run through 
a sliver lap machine, where it is dou- 
bled 14 into 1, and the weight of the 
lap is 300 grains per yard. From here 
it is passed to the ribbon lap machine 
and doubled 6 into 1. The weight of 
a yard of lap at this machine is 290. 
From here it is passed to 

THE COMBER 
and doubled 6 into 1, the weight of a 
yard of sliver being 60 grains. At 
the ribbon lap machine the laps 
should be sized once a day, and if the 
weights are coming uneven, twice or 
even three times a day. The comber 
sliver is next put through two process- 
es of drawing, the doublings being 8 
into 1 at the breaker and 6 into 1 at 
the finisher. The weight of sliver af 
finisher is 80 grains per yard. This cot- 
ton is then put through the slubber 
and made into .40 hank roving. At 
the first intermediate the roving is 1 
hank and at the second 3 hank, while 
at the jacks the roving is 12 hank. Be 
careful of the settings of the rolls. 
They should not be spread too far 
apart, causing a strain, nor should 
they be so close as to cause a breaking 
of the fibre. The 12-hank roving is 



306 



A COTTON FABRICS' GLOSSARY. 



spun into 60s on a spinning frame hav- 
ing a 2%-inch gauge of frame, li^-incli 
diameter ring, and a 6-inch, traverse. 
The twist put in is in excess of that 
generally used for warp yarn, some- 
times as high as 6.40 times the square 
root of the count being used, instead 
of 4.25, the usual twist. After being 
spun, the yarn is spooled and twisted 
into 2-ply 60s yarn, after which it is 
warped and run through the slasher 
and beamed. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

Crepons are woven sometimes with 
a black warp, dyed with sulphur black 
and piece dyed with wool colors. 
BLACK. 

Five per cent anthracene chrome 
black P F ; 4 per cent acetic acid; 
1 per cent oil of vitriol. Boil 45 min- 
utes. Afterchrome with 1 per cent bi- 
chrome 30 minutes. 

NAVY BLUE. 

Four per cent azo chrome blue T 
B; 4 per cent acetic acid; 1 per cent 
oil of vitriol. Afterchrome, 1 per cent 
bichrome 30 minutes. 

The warp® are also colored with im- 
medial sulphur colors to shades re- 
quired and dyed in the piece with 
wool colors. 

BROWN. 

Two per cent anthracene chrome 
brown D W; 1 per cent anthracene 
acid brown G; % per cent anthracene 
yellow B N; 3 per cent oil vitriol. 
Afterchrome, 1^^ per cent chrome. 
PEARL. 

One-quarter per cent anthracene 
chrome blue G; 1 per cent oil of vit- 
riol. Afterchrome, 2 ounces bichrome. 
SLATE. 

One per cent anthracene chrome 
blue G; % of an ounce anthracene 
yellow B N; 2 per cent oil of vitriol. 
Afterchrome, 1 per cent bichrome, 
MODE. 

Four ounces anthracene chrome 
blue G; 2 ounces anthracene chrome 
red A; 1% ounces anthracene yellow 
B N; 2 per cent oil of vitriol. After- 
chrome, 1 per cent bichrome. 
SNUFF BROWN. 

One-half per cent anthracene 
chrome red A; lYz per cent anthra- 
cene chrome brown D; 11^4 per cent 
anthracene yellow B N; ^4 per cent 
anthracene chrome blue F; 3 per cent 
oil of vitriol. Afterchrome, 1% per 
cent bichrome. 

GREEN. 

Three per cent anthracene chrome 
blue G; 1 per cent brilliant milling 
green B; l^^ per cent anthracene yel- 



low B N; 4 per cent oil of vitriol. Af- 
terchrome, 2 per cent bichrome. 
WINE. 

Two per cent wool red B; 1 per 
cent anthracene chrome blue R; 3 
per cent acetic acid; 1 per cent oil of 
vitriol. Afterchrome, 1 per cent bi- 
chrome. 

SAGE. 

Two ounces anthracene chrome 
blue B B; 2 ounces anthracene yel- 
low B N; 1-16 ounce anthracene red 
A; 1 per cent oil of vitriol. After- 
chrome, 1 per cent bichrome. 



SHADE CLOTH. 



Shade cloths for window shades, 
window curtains or window blinds 
derive their name from the use to 
which they are intended to be subject- 
ed. They comprise a large variety 
of counts, widths, weights and quali- 
ties. The lower grades are made 
from low to medium qualities of stock, 
extending to the usual grades of print 
cloth fabrics. Better grades are 
made in all grades of cotton to the 
best Egyptian and Sea Island. 

The widths vary from a few inches 
for small door and house windows to 
three or four yards, or more, for large 
plate glass store windows. The gen- 
eral run of goods is of medium 
width. The narrow shades are made 
by cutting a wider cloth in two or 
more sections or narrow widths. For 
example, a shade cloth finishing 54 
inches wide might be cut in three 
strips, each of which would be 18 
inches in width. The 

MEDIUM-WIDTH GOODS 
are woven in one width, with two sel- 
vedges only, one on each side. It is 
not necessary to have special sel- 
vedges for each width (for cloth to be 
cut up into two or more widths) be- 
cause the sizing or filling put on to 
and into the goods during the finish- 
ing process prevents the edges from 
unraveling for a considerable time 
after they have been cut if they are 
handled with due care. 

The wide shade cloths are usually 
considerably heavier in proportion 
than the narrow goods on account of 
the extra hard usage to which they 
are subjected. 

THE DISTINGUISHING FEATURE 
of these goods is in the smooth, pol- 
ished and firm appearance of the 
same after *-Hey have been finished. 



A COTTON PABHIOS GLOSSARY. 



307 



They are usually finished in white or 
solid colors, or with a printed head- 
ing in addition. 

The cloth basis of the shade may 
be any one of many of the plain wov- 
en cloths that have been described, 
with the possible extension in width 
as noted. 

A shade cloth under consideration 
has a plain cloth for a basis of the 
following construction: Width, 44 
inches; ends per inch, 64; picks per 
inch, 64; length, 100 yards; weight, 
8% yards per pound; warp counts, 
22s; filling counts, 24s. The finished 
width of this cloth is 42 inches. 
LOOM REQUIRED. 

The loom required will vary in 
slight details according to the weight 
and width of cloth required. For nar- 
row goods the automatic or quick run- 
ning plain looms will answer all re- 
quirements, the weave being plain in 
all cases, with one warp and one fill- 
ing only required. 

The principal change necessary to 
weave wide fabrics is in placing two 
or more warps in the loom, end to end, 
instead of one large beam. These sec- 
tional warps are run on shells instead 
of solid beams. The rod running 
through them all is supported on bear- 
ings between every two shells, as well 
as at the ends, when in the loom. 

Combining warps in this manner ob- 
viates the necessity of having to pre- 
pare them on a very wide slasher, 
which would otherwise be necessary 
to accommodate the wide beam, as 
well as overcomes the difllculty caus- 
ed by long beams warping and getting 
out of true. 

FINISHING. 

The cloths are woven white, then 
piece-dyed in the color or tint requir- 
ed. 

One method of finishing 42-inch 
shade goods is as follows: Shear and 
singe on both sides so that all loose 
fibres are dispensed with; wash, 
bleach, dye, mangle and dry. After 
being cooled, run through a damping 
machine and allow to remain in a 
damp state for a short time, then 
stretch on the belt-stretching machine 
to 43 inches in width, after which fill 
on the friction starch mangle with 
the following mixture: Maize or 
cornstarch, 100 pounds; oleine oil, 50 
per cent, two quarts; carbolic acid, 
on©-half pint. Water sufficient to 
make, when boiled, 100 gal- 
lons. After filling, dry on 
, drying machine and allow to cool ; 
run through damping machine and al- 
low to lie at least two hours. Run 
through wide or Scotch hydraulic 



mangle; strip, turn and repeat the 
process. Strip, run through canroy 
machine. 

For white shade cloth the dyeing 
process is not necessary. .Fancy 
shade cloths, in addition to the proc- 
esses noted, are run through a print- 
ing machine for the purpose of receiv- 
ing a pattern at one end of each 
shade. The color or tinsel applied is 
of a firm character. The patterns are 
printed every so often in the piece, ac- 
cording to the length of shade re- 
quired, and extend from side to side. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

For carding and spinning particu- 
lars the reader is referred to the warp 
data in the article on "Buckram," 
and to the filling data in the article on 
"Book Muslin." 

Dyeing Particulars. 

These goods are dyed on the jig in 
rolls of about 10 pieces of 50 yards, 
with sulphur colors. 
ECRU. 

One-half per cent immedial cutch G; 
Vs per cent immedial yellow D; 1 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 1 per cent soda 
ash; 20 per cent salt; afterchromed 
with y2 per cent chrome. 
OLIVEL 

One per cent immedial yellow D; 2 
per cent immedial dark greeu B; 2 
per cent immedial olive B; 5 per cent 
sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 
25 per cent salt; afterohrome with 1 
per cent chrome. 

NAVY BLUE. 

Ten per cent immedial blue B; 2 per 
cent immedial indone R; 12 per cent 
sulphide sodium; 2 per cent caustic 
soda; 25 per cent salt. 

DARK GREEN. 

Ten per cent immedial green B B; 
10 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent 
caustic soda; 25 per cent salt. 
MAROON. 

Ten per cent immedial maroon B; 
10 per cent sulphide of sodium; 2 per 
cent caustic soda; 25 per cent salt; 
aftertreat with 1 per cent chrome. 
SLATE. 

One per cent immedial black N L N; 

1 per cent sulphide sodium; 1 per cent 
caustic soda; 10 per cent salt; after- 
treat with % per cent chrome. 

RED. 
Eight per cent diamine fast red F; 

2 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent salt; 
aftertreat with lYz per cent fluoride of 
chrome. 

BROWN. 
Five per cent immedial brown B; 5 



308 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY 



per cent immedial brown G; 10 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent caus- 
tic soda; 25 per cent salt; afterchrome 
with. IV2 per cent chrome. 



BISHOP'S LAWN. 



Bishop's lawn is a fine, plain woven 
fabric, slightly lighter in weight than 
linon or India linon. It is a white 
fabric with a blue tint and is princi- 
pally used for light dresses and un- 
derskirts. 

Like a great many other plain cot- 
ton goods,bishop's lawn varies slightly 
in weight, count and quality, but the 
latter is usually very good. 

The finish and blue tint seen in 
these goods are the principal charac- 
teristic features which distinguish 
them from other fine cotton fabrics. 
A cloth of the same construction and 
quality might be known by another 
name if finished differently. 

The 

ANALYSIS 
of a bishop's lawn of good quality in- 
dicates the following construction: 
ends per inch, 104; picks per inch 
112; warp counts, 100; filling counts, 
120; finished width, 27 inches. 

The ground of the fabric is reeded 
two ends per dent. The selvedge is 
neat, the yarns being arranged in a 
somewhat unusual manner. From the 
ground cloth outwards, they are as 
follows: 

12 ends singles in four dents; 24 
ends as 12 in six dents; 8 ends as 2 in 
one dent; total, 44 selvedge ends in 
11 dents on each side. 

The selvedge and ground ends are of 
the same counts. 

CALCULATIONS. 

To find number of ends in warp: 

104 (sley) divided ly 2 (ends per dent) 
equals 52 dents per inch; 52x27 
(width) equals 1,404 dents occupied by 
warp; 1,404 — 22 for selvedges equals 
1,3S2 dents for gro'ind; l,3S2x2 equals 
2.764 ground ends plus 88 selvedge 
ends total 2,852 ends. 

To find width in reed, assuming 10 
per cent shrinkage from warp to fin- 
ished cloth: ^7 inches divided by .90 
or 90 per cent equals 30 inches in reed. 

To find weight of warp, assuming 

105 yards of warp for 100 yards of 
cloth: 

2,852 (ends) x 105 (length) 



To find weight of cut: 

3.S65 lbs. yrarp. 
3.333 lbs. fiUins. 

6.898 lbs. -weight of 100 yard cut. 

To find number of yards per pound: 

100 (length) divided by 6,898 
(weight) equals 14.49, say 14-/4 yards 
per pound. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

This fabric may be woven on any 
of the light running cam, single-box, 
looms. One beam only is required. 
On account of the large number of 
ends per inch, care should be taken not 
to have a coarser twine harness than 
is absolutely necessary. If difiiculty 
is experienced with crowded heddles 
and ends, the cone motion may be sub- 
stituted for the cams with advantage. 
FINISHING. 

After being prepared and bleached 
in the ordinary manner, the goods are 
opened out to the full width and run 
through a light starch, blued to suit 
requirements, on a starch mangle, and 
dried. They are then dampened, cal- 
endered on a "swissing" or "rolling" 
calender, folded and made up as re- 
quired. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Bishop's lawn is made in mills hav- 
ing the equipment of machinery as 
given in the third division, i. e.,* ma- 
chines for making fine counts of yarns. 
On this class of goods the sampling of 
the cotton as to grade and staple is a 
very important part in thefinished fab- 
ric. The counts of the yarn of the 
sample of the cloth taken for descrip- 
tion are for the warps 100s and for the 
filling yarn 120s. For these counts 
the cotton used would be Sea Island 
and the staple 1% inches. Every bale 
should be graded and stapled before it 
is allowed to be put into the mixing, 
and this mixing should be allowed to 
stand as long as possible and also 
should be as large as convenient. For 
this class of cotton it would be better 
if it were opened and put through a 
blower and then sent through a line of 
trunking, so that it would be dried out 
as much as possible before being work- 
ed. 

ONLY TWO PROCESSES 
of pickers and an opener are used for 
this cotton, because it should have as 
little beating as possible to get the 



3.565 lbs. warp In 10« yards cloth. 



100 (counts) X 840 

To find weight of filling in 100 yardsof cloth: 

112 (picks) X 100 (length) x SO (width in reed) 



120 (counts) X 840 



= 3.333 lbs. filling. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



509 



dirt out. The usual instructions that 
have already been given, relative to 
the opener and pickers, snould be fol- 
lowed. The speed of the breaker beat- 
er (which should be of a two-bladed 
rigid type) should be 1,350 revolutions 
per minute, and the lap in front should 
weigh 29 pounds. These laps are put 
up at the back of the finisher picker 
and doubled 4 into 1. lae speed of 
this beater should oe 1,200 revolutions 
per minute, which gives the cotton 
passing through about 29 beats or 
blows per inch. For this class ol goods 
it is not the general custom to mix in 
cut waste. The picker room should 
be looked after to see that all the 
eveners are working properly and to 
try and make laps that don't split. In 
order to do this, look after 

THE DRAFTS 

to see that they are putting the cotton 
passing through the picker in the 
proper place. At the finisher picker 
■ the laps, as they are taken cff,should 
be weighed, and all those having a va- 
riation of half a pound either 
side of standard should not be al- 
lowed to be put up at the card, but 
should be run over again. The total 
weight of a lap at the finisher should 
be 30 pounds or a 10-ounce lap. These 
laps are put up at the card. This card 
should be set close at the points be- 
tween the cylinder and doffer and cyl- 
inder and flats and also between the 
cylinder and licker-in, but between the 
licker-in and feed plate the setting 
should be so that the distance between 
the bite of the feed roll and teeth of 
the licker-in is just a little greater 
than the length of the staple. It is 

A GENERAL FAULT 
of carders to set these two parts the 
same for all lengths of staple, and this 
should be looked after and remedied, 
because if the proper distance is not 
maintained ibetween these parts the 
stock will be shorter in length at the 
front (if set too close), or will not be 
properly carded (if set too far apart). 
For long-staple cotton, some over- 
seers claim that it is an advantage to 
reduce the speed of the licker-in. Their 
reason for so doing is that they claim 
that the licker-in is nothing more or 
less than a beater, and if we slow 
down the beater for long-staple cotton, 
why not slow down the licker-in in the 
same proportion? The wire fillet used 
on the cylinder should be No. 110s, or 
No. 34s wire, and for the doffer and 
top flats No. 130s, or 36s wire. The 

SPEED OF THE FLATS 
should be one complete revolution ev- 



ery 38 minutes and the licker-in 30 
revolutions per minute. Tne cards 
should be stripped three times a day, 
and ground at least once a mouth. The 
flats should be ground so as lo always 
have a sharp needle point. If possi- 
ble, the flats should be taken off and 
ground on a flat grinding machine and 
It will be found that the best results 
will be obtained. The production of 
a card for a week of 60 hours should be 
225 pounds; the weight of the sliver, 
35 grains per yard; the draft of the 
card being 125. In this article, we 
have drafted high and carded light. 
In some cases, for this kind of goods 
and cotton,overseers have been known 
to draft as high as 180, which makes 
our draft of 125 look rather small. 
After passing the cards, the sliver is 
put through either a line of drawing 
or a sliver lap machine, according to 
the lay-out of the mill. In mills that 
are now being built and in the old 
mills that are installing new machin- 
ery, 

THE COMBERS 
being put in are generally of the eight- 
head type, having laps 10 1^ inches 
wide. The weights, etc., that we give 
in this article will be for the older 
type of 8%-inch-width laps. The 
weights for larger laps may be ob- 
tained by proportion. We will also as- 
sume that the equipment is as follows: 
Sliver lap, ribbon lap and combers. 
The doubling at the sliver lap ma- 
chine is 14 into 1, and the weight of 
the sliver is 225 grains per yard. At 
the ribbon lap machine the doublings 
are 6 into 1, the weight of a yard of 
lap being 200 grains per yard. In 
some mills, the sliver laps are made a 
little heavier and only five doublings 
used at the ribbon lap. "When this 
is the case, the weight of a yard of 
sliver lap is 270 grains per yard. 

For the top leather rolls of these ma- 
chines use a 

VARNISH 
as follows: Seven ounces gelatine 
glue, one quart acetic acid, two tea- 
spoons oil of origanium. Color with 
burnt sienna. In dog-day weather or 
for slippery cotton use ground char- 
coal and gum arable. This varnish 
may be also used for the drawing 
frames and comber rolls (both detach- 
ing and those in the draw box). The 
laps from the ribbon lap machine are 
put up at the comber. At this ma- 
chine the percentage of waste taken 
out is 22 to 25. The speed is 85 nips 
per minute. The rolls should be var- 
nished at least once every two weeks, 
needles picked and brushes cleaned 
once a week. Comber percentages 



310 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



should be taken every time a comber 
is changed from one stock to another 
and the percentage of four every day. 
Set comber same as for Indian lawn. 
The weight of the sliver should be 
about 35 grains per yard. The comb- 
er cans should be put up at the back 
of the drawing frame, being doubled 
6 into 1 at both the breaker and 
finisher. The 

WEIGHT OF THE SLIVER 
at the finisher drawing should be 
65 grains per yard. Watch the stop- 
motions to see that they are all in 
proper working order and also the 
roll settings; also keep the rolls well 
varnished. At the slubber the draw- 
ing is made into .80-hank roving, after 
which it is put through three processes 
of fly frames. At the first interme- 
diate it is made into 2.25 hank, at the 
second into 5, and at the fine frame in- 
to 20 hank for warp yarns; for filling 
yarns the slubber and first would be 
the same hank, at the second interme- 
diate the hank is six and at the fine 
frame, 24 hank. Watch the build of 
the bobbins, the lay, twist and ten- 
sion. Also keep a sharp watch on 
double and single, also bunches. Some- 
times the slubber and first intermedi- 
ate top leather rolls are varnished, the 
varnish used being a little lighter than 
that used for drawing frames. 

THE ROVING 
is spun into 100s from the 20-hank rov- 
ing on a warp frame having 1%-inch 
diameter ring, 5-inch traverse, and 
spindle speed of 9,400 revolutions per 
minute. This yarn is then spooled, 
warped and put through the slasher, at 
which the following size may be used: 
100 gallons of water; 75 pounds pota- 
to starch; 7 pounds tallow; 3 pounds 
Yorkshire gum; 2 pounds white soap; 
Boil two hours and let stand 10 
hours before using. Keep agitator run- 
ning and size almost at boiling point. 
The 24-hank roving is made into 
120s yarn on the mule. 



Dyeing Particulars. 
PINK. 
One-half per cent rose B D; 1 per 
cent sal soda; 10 per cent salt. 
SKY BLUE. 
One-quarter per cent diamine sky 
blue F F; 1 per cent sal soda; 10 per 
cent salt. 

CREAM. 
Two grains diamine catechine 3 G; 
1 per cent sal soda; 10 per cent salt. 
ECRU. 
Two per cent diamine catechine 3 G; 



% ounce diamine fast yellow B; 1 per 
cent sal soda; 10 per cent salt. 
PEA GREEN. 
Two ounces diamine green B; 1 per 
cent sal soda; 10 per cent salt. 
RED. 
Five per cent diamine fast red F; 2 
per cent sal soda; 20 per cent salt. 
SAGE GREEN. 
One per cent diamine green G; 1 per 
cent sal soda; 15 per cent salt. 
WINE. 
Four per cent diamine Bordeaux B; 
2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent salt. 
SCARLET. 
Three per cent diamine scarlet B; 
2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent salt. 
ROYAL BLUE. 
Five per cent diamine sky blue; 2 
per cent sal soda; 25 per cent salt. 
♦-♦-♦ 



ROBES, 



A cotton fabric with an unglazed 
surface, printed on one side, in high- 
ly colored patterns, this fabric is made 
up into robes, wrappers or gowns, 
hence the name. The fabric was origi- 
nally produced in cashmere effects, 
and used primarily as a dress fabric. 

This fabric, however, resembles in 
point of texture and general appear- 
ance the cloth known as "cretonne," 
which is also a printed cloth, but us^ 
principally for furniture coverings, 
curtains, comfortables and such pur- 
poses. The term robes is applied to 
both twilled and plain woven fabrics. 
The fabric used for robes is usually 
made from a 64-square printing cloth, 
or its equivalent, while the fabric 
used for household purposes is made 
from various textures. 

The 

CHARACTER OF PATTERNS 
for robes is almost without limit, but 
the scale, or size of the figure in the 
design, however, should not be too 
large, as the numerous folds would 
destroy the effect of the repeat of the 
design. The designs best suited for 
this class of goods are small floral or 
geometrical figures, distributed in such 
a manner that they will not appear in 
the finished garment in rows or lines, 
but rather in an all-over effect, so that 
the various figiires constituting the 
design may be seen at a glance. 

THE COLORINGS 
mav be almost anv conceivable com- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



311 



binationimaginable.providing of course 
that there be harmony in the col- 
ors used. The number of colors used 
varies from 4 to 10 different shades, 
the darker colors usually forming the 
background, while the lighter and 
brighter colors form the figures. 

In regard to the construction for 
these fabrics the designer has little in 
the way of ingenuity, the important 
feature of the goods depending on the 
printing machine. 

The fabric is composed of plain 
cotton yarn with 

THE COUNTS 
varying very little, a common texture 
being 64 ends and 64 picks, of l-30s 
both warp and filling, sometimes ar- 
ranged 70 ends and 58 picks, another 
texture being made with 64 ends and 
48 picks, l-30s warp and 1-263 filling, 
made in widths from 27 to 36 inches. 

The goods are woven on high speed 
looms. The Northrop loom is well 
adapted for this class of goods. The 
cost of weaving is an important con- 
sideration in the production of these 
goods, as the retail price does not war- 
rant an unnecessary expense. 
FINISHING. 

The goods, after being woven, are 
prepared for the printer by boiling 
off, then passed over heated cylinders 
to dry, after which they are ready for 
printing. After the printing process 
they are ready for the merchant. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns to make robes are 
manufactured in the first division 
of mills as given in a previous 
article. The mixture for this cloth 
varies according to the mill making 
the goods and also the quality of the 
goods required of the manufacturer. 
Generally speaking, there is a certain 
percentage of waste used for this 
class of goods, and not only the per- 
centage differs, but the quality of the 
waste used also. Some mills 
will use only comber waste, and other 
mills only comber and card waste, 
while other mills will use any kind of 
waste they can obtain, and run it 
through. The mixing plays an Impor- 
tant part and the percentage of waste 
put in varies from 10 to 100 per cent. 
Production and plenty of it is the cry 
of the owners making this class of 
goods. This being the case, q.uality is 
somewhat lacking. To make up for 
this, the goods are brushed, which has 
a twofold advantage. It gives a 

NAP 
to the goods, as well as hides the neps 



in the cloth. When good raw stock is 
used, the length of staple is very short, 
rarely being over seven-eighths of an 
inch in length. The counts for the 
sample of cloth under description are 
30s for both warp and filling. The 
mixings are made, as before stated, 
large and with the proper proportion 
of waste mixed in. This is then run 
through three processes of pickers,first 
being run through an opener. This 
opener has a fan, which makes 165 rev- 
olutions and carries the cotton to the 
aprons of thebreaker picker and leaves 
the cotton in an open, airy state. This 
lattice or apron carries the cotton to the 
feed rolls of the beater. This beater is 
of the two-bladed type and makes 1,500 
revolutions per minute. The proper 
drafts should be maintained at both 
pickers, so that a hard lap will be 
niade. There are several methods by 
which, it is claimed, the laps "may be 
made and will run off smoothly and 
without licking, but as near as can be 
found out by experimenting, no one 
remedy will fill all conditions. Judg- 
ment at this point is needed. The 
weight of a full lap at the head end of 
the breaker picker should be about 16 
ounces per yard. These laps are put 
up at the intermediate picker and dou- 
bled four into one. This picker is 
equipped with a two-bladed rigid type 
of beater and has a speed of 1,450 rev- 
olutions per minute. 

THE TOTAL WEIGHT 

of a lap from this machine is 37 
pounds or a 10-ounce lap. These laps 
are put up at the finisher picker and 
doubled four into one. This picker 
has the same style of beater as the oth- 
er two; the speed is, however, slightly 
reduced, being 1,375 revolutions per 
minute. The total weight of a lap is 
39 pounds, or a 14i^-ounce lap. In 
some mills they omit the intermediate 
process of pickers, using just the 
breaker and finisher, and for this class 
of goods would advise two processes 
of picking. The laps are put up at the 
card. For this class of work the draft 
of the card does not exceed 90 and 
very often is not more than 85. The 
card fillet used on both the doffer and 
cylinder, as well as the fiats, is coarse. 
The general count used is No. 33 wire 
or No. 100s for cylinder and No. 35 or 
No. 120s count foi' the doffer and flats. 
The settings used for this class of 
work are similar to those given for in- 
digo prints. The speed of the cylinder' 
is 165 revolutions per minute; licker- 
in, 350 revolutions per minute; flats, 
one complete revolution every 50 min- 
utes. The weight of the sliver is 65 



312 



A COTTON FABRIOS GLOSSARY, 



grains per yard, and the production is 
from 850 to 1,000 pounds per week of 
60 hours, according to the quality and 
quantity required. 

THE CARD 
for this class of work should be ground 
once a month and stripped twice a day, 
although in some instances the doffer 
is stripped a third time. The waste ta- 
ken out should not exceed 8 per cent. 
After leaving the card tne sliver is 
put through two processes of drawing, 
the doublings at the breaker being six 
into one, and at the finisher six into 
one. The weight of a yard of sliver is 
7-5 grains. The speed of the front roll 
largely depends on the call for draw- 
ing, and the manner in which the room 
is balanced. As frequently happens, 
the drawing frame is the machine to 
get an increase in speed so as to keep 
up with the slubbers or cards, and to 
do so the speed of the front roll is 
increased. The speed varies from 325 
to 450 revolutions per minute, accord- 
ing to requirements. As the drawing 
frame is the last machine that can 
really be said to even the silver, care 
should be taken to see that all stop- 
motions are in perfect working order, 
and that they act quickly so as to pre- 
vent an end passing through before the 
frame stops. Whole sets of drawing 
or card sliver should not be put up at 
the back of the frame, because it tends 
to make uneven jarn. If a size at the 
front be taken when the tops of a 
can are running through, it will be 
found to be heavier than the standard; 
the middle about the standard, and 
when the can is almost empty it will 
size light. If the cans are equipped 
with springs, it will help overcome 
this defect to a large extent, and It 
will also help to stop the "breaking 
back" of the ends. 

THE DRAWING 
is put up at the back of the slubber 
and made into .60-hank roving, after 
which it passes through two processes 
of fly frames and is made into 2-hank 
roving at the intermediate, and 6 at 
the fine frame. The proper lay of the 
roving on the bobbin is 14 rows per 
inch for the 2 hank, and 33 lays per 
inch for the 6 hank roving. Twist jack 
roving so that it will bear its own 
weight when put in the creels at the 
successive machines. Be particularly 
careful about single, double and bunch- 
es. Sizing should be accomplished 
at the picker as follows: Every fin- 
isher lap should be weighed and if 
the weight varies more than half a 
pound, either side of standard weighty 
it is put back to be run over again. 



The cards should be sized once a week. 
The drawing frame finisher should be 
sized four times a day, and a varia- 
tion of two grains to the yard either 
side of standard should mean a change. 
The fine roving is sized once a day 
and there is no hard and fast rule for 
changing. 

The 6-hank roving is spun into 30s 
warp yarn on the spinning frame, two 
into one, on a frame having a 1%-inch 
diameter ring, 2?4-inch gauge of spin- 
dle, 61/^-inch traverse, and a spindle 
speed of 10,000 revolutions per min- 
ute. As soft a twist as possible is used 
so that it will nap well. The yarn is 
next spooled and warped, and run 
through a slasher. The 6-hank roving 
for the filling yarn is spun into 30s 
filling at the mule, as it requires a ■ 
soft twist, for reasons before stated. 
After being spun it is taken to the 
conditioning room and remains there 
until wanted for use. 



Dyeing Particulars. 
NAVY BLUE. 
Ten per cent immedial indone blue 2 
B; 10 per cent sulphide sodium; 4 per 
cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt. 
GREEN. 
Eight per cent immedial green G G; 
8 per cent sulphide sodium; 4 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent salt. 
RED. 
Six per cent diamine fast red F; 2 
per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glau- 
ber's; aftertreat with 2 per cent fluo- 
ride of chrome. 

YELLOW. 
Five per cent immedial yellow G G; 
5 per cent sulphide sodium; 30 per 
cent salt; 4 per cent soda ash. 
OLIVE. 
Four per cent immedial olive 3 G; 

4 per cent sulphide sodium; 30 per 
cent salt; 3 per cent soda ash. 

BROWN. 
Five per cent immedial brown B; 

5 per cent immedial cutch O; 10 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 4 per cent so- 
da ash. 

MYRTLE GREEN. 
Eight per cent immedial dark green 
B; 8 per cent sodium sulphide; 4 per 
cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt. 
ORANGE. 
Ten per cent immedial orange C; 
10 per cent sodium sulphide; 4 per 
cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt. 
BORDEAUX. 
Ten per cent immedial Bordeaux G; 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



30 per cent sodium sulphide; 4 per cent 
S€da ash; 40 per cent salt. 
SLATE. 
One per cent immedial black N N; 
2 per cent soda ash; 1 per cent sodi- 
um sulphide; 25 per cent salt. 
ECRU. 
One per cent immedial cutch G; % 
per cent immedial yellow D; 2 per cent 
sodium sulphate; 25 per cent salt. 
BLACK. 
Six per cent immedial brilliant black 
5 B V; 6 per cent sodium sulphide ; 4 
per cent soda ash; 50 per cent salt. 

bengal' stripes. 



Bengal stripes is a name given to a 
type of gingham consisting of white 
and colored stripes, alternately ar- 
ranged in small effects in regular order, 
the colored yarn having been dyed 
with Bengal indigo. 

They were originally made in Ben- 
gal, India, the home of some of the 
many species of the plant from which 
indigo is extracted, Indigo Fera, and 
derive their name from that fact. They 
differ from some other types of strip- 
ed ginghams only in having colored 
warp yarns that have been dyed with 
Bengal indigo. 

INDIGO 
has been used as a- dyestuff for hun- 
dreds of years and has attained a rep- 
utation for itself that is responsible 
for a continued call for indigo-dyed 
goods in the market, although similar 
appearing goods may be made much 
mere cheaply with modern aniline 
dyes. Goods dyed with the latter 
possess more merit than most of 
the so-called indigo-dyed goods, the 
colors of which do not penetrate be- 
yond the surface of the yarns. 

Indigo dyeing, if done properly, re- 
quires more time than is now thought 
advisable or necessary to devote to 
any ordinary class of dyed goods and 
has been substituted to a very large 
extent by anilines. The amount of in- 
digo used has been steadily growing 
less for a number* of years, and it ap- 
pears probable that there will b6"\rery 
little of it used in the commercial 
world a few years hence. 

USES OP BENGAL STRIPES. 

Bengal stripes are used principally 
for skirtings, aprons, etc. Fig. 1 is an 
illustration of a typical fabric, the 
analysis of which shows it to be an 
article that can be depended upon to 
wear well. 



The warp yarns are arranged 8 of 
blue and 4 of white, alternately, the 
filling being all white. The white 
yarn in both warp and filling has been 
bleached before being woven. The 
blue warp yarn was dyed in the skein 
with Bengal indigo. 

The fabric illL?strated is practically 
a warp face cloth, the warp yarn 



Fig-. 1. 

showing very prominently in alternate 
blue and white stripes, whereas the 
filling is almost hidden. Several fac- 
tors tend to produce this effect, among 
which may be mentioned, first that two 
out of every three ends are raised on 
each pick, the weave being the 3-end 
warp flush twill to the left (Fig. 2); 



Fig. 2. 

second, that the warp yarns are hard- 
er twisted than the filling yarns and 
are approximately twice as heavy; 
third that the cloth contains consid- 
erably more ends than picks per inch. 
ANALYSIS. 

An analysis of the fabric shows the 
following construction data: Finished 
width, 29.7 inches; ends per inch, 67.2; 
picks per inch, 48; warp pattern, 8 
blue and 4 white; warp counts. 9s; fill- 
ing counts, 16s; yards per pound, 2.5. 

Perhaps the simplest method of 
counting the number of ends per inch 
in a stripe pattern, and the most ac- 
curate, is to count the number of 
ends in each pattern; or if the latter 
is small, count several patterns on a 
given width and calculate accordingly. 

For example, there are 12 ends per 
pattern in Fig. 1 and 7 patterns on 1^ 
inches. 

7 (ends) x 12 (patterns) 

=: 47.2 ends per Inch. 

1.25 (inches) 



314 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



The greater the width measured and 
the number of patterns counted,the less 
the liability of error. When the full 
width of cloth is available for analy- 
sis purposes, it is advisable to measure 
and count the whole number of com- 
plete patterns, omitting sections of 
patterns and selvedges. 

The layout of the entire warp is as 
follows: 



White White 

for sel- for 

vedges. ground. Blue. 
}0 as 9 



White. Blue. 
s= 10 



10 as 9 



164 times = 



676 
ends In the warp. 



676+1,320 = 1,S 

The selvedge ends, with the exception 
of the two outer ends on each side, ai-e 
drawn single. The two ends at each 
side are drawn together as one. 

The entire 164 complete patterns in 
the above warp layout occupy 29^/4 
inches in the cloth. 



12 X 164 
29.25 



= 67.2 ends per inch. 



LOOM REQUIRED. 

These goods may be woven on sin- 
gle box cam or dobby looms, the for- 
mer preferred. Six harnesses would be 
necessary if wire heddles were used on 
a dobby loom, whereas three twine 
harnesses would be sufficient. The 
ends are drawn in straight and the 
selvedges drawn the same as the 
ground yarns, one end through each 
heddle and three ends per dent. 

FINISHING. 

There is practically no finish given 
these goods, beyond burling, brush- 
ing and making up. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns of which Bengal stripes 
are made are manufactured in mills of 
the first division as given in a pre- 
vious article. The method of mixing 
the cotton in these mills would prob- 
ably be by hand. In the up-to-date 
mills, however, openers are employed, 
especially if a large amount of cot- 
ton is used. The method generally 
used in such a case is to have several 
high-speed openers attached in a row 
the cotton being delivered on an end- 
less apron, which carries it to a blow- 
er. This fan blows the cotton to the 
picker room to a condenser, which in 
turn deposits the open cotton upon an 
endless apron, which runs over the 
mixing bins. At every bin there is a 
chute which, when di'opped, allows the 
.cotton to be dropped into the bin. 



AN IMPORTANT POINT 
to look out for, when this method is 
used,is the danger of fire. Bythis meth- 
od the cotton is thoroughly opened 
and may be used as fast as delivered, 
as it is in a loose, fluffy, dried-out con- 
dition. The number of openers used 
is according to the amount of cotton re- 
quired by the mill. When this method 
is employed.the good sliver up to the 
slubber is put into the centre hopper. 
This insures a thorough and uniform 
mixing of this waste^ which is always 
the "bugbear" of cotton mills. The 
stock used for Bengal stripes varies 
according to the quality of cloth de- 
sired, but generally a %-inch to 1 inch 
staple is used. An opener and two 
processes of picking are used. 

THE HOPPER 
of the opener should be well filled and 
is connected directly with the breaker 
picker. The speed of this beater, which 
is of the three-bladed rigid type, is 1,- 
400 revolutions per minute. In this 
breaker picker there are two beaters 
and two sets of cages. The forward 
beater is a two-bladed beater and 
the speed of this is also 1,400 revolu- 
tions per minute. The total weight of 
a lap at the front end is 40 pounds or 
a 20-ounce lap. The picker tenders 
generally allow this lap to be made as 
large as possible, but the weight per 
yard remains the same. These laps 
are put up at the finisher picker and 
doubled 4 into 1. This picker is 
equipped with either a two-bladed rig- 
id or a pin beater; in either case the 
sneed is 1,450 revolutions per minute. 
The total weight of the lap is 46 
pounds net for a 52-yard lap, or about 
a 141/^ -ounce lap. This lap is put up 

AT THE CARD, 
the draft of which should not exceed 
100. The speed of the cylinder should 
be 165 revolutions per minute; licker- 
in, 375 revolutions per minute, and flats 
one complete revolution every 45 min- 
utes (110 flats). The flllet of the cyl- 
inder should be No. 33s wire or 100s 
and for the doffer and top flats No. 
34s wire or 110s. The cards should be 
set and ground the same as given for 
indigo prints. The cards should be 
stripped three times a day of 10^^ 
hours. The weight of the sliver per 
yard should be 55 grains and the pro- 
duction 900 pounds for a week of 60 
hours. This sliver is put through two 
processes of drawing, six ends up at 
both the breaker and finisher draw- 
ing. The weight of the sliver is 75 
grains at the finisher. The speed of 
the front roll is 400 revolutions per 
minute. The drawing should be sized 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



315 



three times a day. For this class of 
work either metallic or leather cov- 
ered top rolls may be used, but in eith- 
er case should be looked after to see 
that they are ir perfect condition. 
Watch the 

STOP-MOTIONS 

to see that they are in perfect work- 
ing condition, and that the frame 
tenders do not block them up with cot- 
ton to keep them from working. The 
drawing sliver is now put up to the 
slubber, where it is made into .40- 
hank roving. Be careful to set the 
bottom steel rolls properly, so as to ob- 
tain the best results, and watch the 
twist and tension. The slubber roving 
is made into 1 hank for warp and 1.20 
hank for filling at the first interme- 
diate and at the second or (in this 
case) the five frame is made into 2.25 
hank for the warp and B.50 for the 
filling yarii. These rovings are then ta- 
ken to the spinning room and at the 
warp frame made into 9s on a frame 
having a 3i/4-inch gauge, 2%-inch di- 
ameter ring and a 7-inch traverse. 
This is then spooled, warped and put 
through a slasher. The roving for 
filling is spun into 16s on a filling 
frame having a G% to 7-inch traverse, 
1%-inch diameter ring and a 2%-inch 
gauge. This yarn is then conditioned. 



TURKEY RED, 



Turkey red is a name given to fab- 
rics that have been subjected to the 
Turkey red dyeing process. They are 
usually cloths constructed with the 
• plain or small twill weaves, and are 
found in various widths. They are 
used for signal flags, dress goods and 
for many other purposes where a 
bright red color that will withstand 
severe tests of light, wear and weath- 
er is required. The analysis "of two 
characteristic fabrics shows the fol- 
lowing construction data: 

Sample 1. Plain weave; 64 
ends and 52 picks per inch; 
30s yarn in both warp and filling. 
A fabric of this type could be woven 
on either automatic or ordinary plain 
cloth looms. 

Sample 2. Three end twill weave, 
for ground; 66 ends and 72 picks per 
inch; 36s warp for the ground of the 
cloth, and 2-36'S wai'p for the selvedg- 
es; 24s filling. The ground of this 
sample is drawn one end in each hed- 



ama 
maa 



Fig. 1. 



Dyeing Particulars. 
BLUE. 

Eight per cent immedial indogene 
G C L cone; 10 per cent sulphide so- 
dium; 4 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent 
Glauber's salt. 

BLACK. 
Ten per cent immedial black N R T; 
10 per cent sulphide sodium; 4 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. 

BROWN. 
Five per cent immedial cutch O; 5 
per cent immedial brown B R; 10 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 4 per cent soda 
ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. 

OLIVE. 

Five per cent immedial olive B; 5 
per cent sulphide sodium; 25 per cent 
salt; 3 per cent soda ash. 

DARK GREEN. 
Ten per cent immedial dark green 
B; 10 per cent sulphide sodium; 30 per 
cent salt; 4 per cent soda ash. 

MAROON. 

Eight per cent immedial maroon B; 
8 per cent sulphide sodium; 4 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent salt. 



Fig. 2. 

die and three ends in each dent. The 
selvedges weave two ply ends as one, 
2 picks in each shed (Fig. 2), 
with catch thread on the out- 
side, and are reeded 2 ends 
per dent. The two ply ends, as one, 
represent 4 single strands of yarn in 
each dent. There are 16 ply yarns in 
each selvedge. 

It would be advisable to weave a fab- 
ric of this character on a dobby, in 
preference to a cam loom, because of 
the difference in weave of selvedges and 
gi'ound. The former being on 4 and 
the latter on 3 picks necessitates 12 
picks before they repeat together. 
Six harnesses would be required for 
the ground ends, and 3 for the sel- 
vedge ends, one of which would be for 
the catch thread. 

CALCULATIONS. 

In analyzing the twill fabric, a piece 
2% X 4 Inches was found to weigh 
12 grains, i. e., 10 square inches 
weigh 12 grains. 

12 divided by 10 equals 1.2 grains 
per square inch. 

The average number of the yarn was 
found as follows: 66 (ends) plus 72 



31 G 



A COTTON FABRIOS GLOSSARY. 



(picks) equals 138 inches, which, 
weigh 1.2 grains. 138 divided 
by 1.2 equals 115 inches per 
grain. 115 plus 10 per cent 
(for take up) equals 126 inches of 
yarn per grain. 126 times .2314 equals 
29.1, say 29, average numher. 

By comparing the relative sizes of 
the yarns, warp and filling, by cross- 
ing and twisting them, it was found 
that 18 ends of warp were of the same 
diameter as 12 picks of filling. 

Assuming the warp counts to he 
86s, the filling counts were found as 
follows: 

138 (sum of sley and pick) divided 
by 29 (average numiber) equals 4.76. 

66 (sley or ends per inch) divided 
by 36 (warp number) equals 1.83; 
total 2.93. 

72 (picks) divided by 2.93 equals 
24.5, say 24, filling required. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The counts of .the yarns of which 
Turkey red is made vary according to 
the quality desired. The stock being 
used also varies in length of staple and 
also grade. In one of the samples tak~ 
en for this article the warp yarn is 
l-36s and the filling yarn is l-24s. For 
these yarns and quality of cloth 
the staple of the cotton used would be 
15-16 of an inch in length and of a 
good grade. 

THE MACHINERY USED 
would be found in the second division 
of mills as given in a previous article. 
All bales of cotton should be graded 
and sampled before being put into the 
mixing and all those not up to grade 
and length of staple should be placed 
one side and not used in the mixing. 
If the mill is up-to-date or of a recent 
construction the method of mixing 
would be as described in the last arti- 
cle. In older mills the cotton would 
be mixed by hand. If the latter meth- 
od is employed, the mixing should be 
made from as many bales as possible 
and allowed to stand as long as pos- 
sible to dry out. 

PERIODS OP MIXING 
of course vary according to the output 
of the mill in which the cloth is made. 
If space is plenty, which is not gen- 
erally the case, a double mixing should 
be made, one mixing being used while 
the other is drying out, thus insuring 
that green cotton is not used. The cot- 
ton is then put through an opener and 
three processes of picking. The hop- 
per of the opener should always be 
kept at least half full of cotton and 
the lifting apron should work easily 



and care should be taken to see that 
the slats are all Avhole. The pin beat- 
er should be adjusted so as to feed 
the proper amount of cotton to the 
breaker picker. This picker is gener- 
ally of a combination type, having two 
sets of beaters and two sets of cages. 
The breaker beater speed is about 1,- 
' 400 revolutions per minute, and is of a 
three-bladed, rigid type. The forward 
beater is generally of a two-bladed, 
rigid type, and its speed is 1,400 revo- 
lutions per minute. The 

WEIGHT OF THE LAP 
at this picker is 40 pounds, or a 16- 
ounce lap. These laps are put up at 
the intermediate picker and doubled 
4 into 1. This machine has a single 
beater of two blades, rigid type, the 
speed of which is 1,425 revolutions per 
minute. The weight of lap at this ma- 
chine is 38 pounds or a 12-ounce lap. 
These are put up at the finisher piclcer 
and doubled 4 into 1. The weight of 
a lap at the head end of this frame Is 
48 pounds or a 14i^ -ounce lap. In the 
picker room care should be taken to 
see that the drafts are properly reg- 
ulated and that the eveners are work- 
ing properly, and also that the cotton 
is thrown upon the top cage to help 
prevent splitting laps. Every lap 
should be weighed and a variation or 
one-half pound either side of stand- 
ard weight is allowed. All laps vary- 
ing over or under this allowance 
should be put back and run over again. 
Roving waste is mixed in the good 
cotton in many ways, one of which has 
been previously given. The laps are 
then put up at the card. At this ma- 
chine the speed of the licker-in should 
be 375 revolutions per minute. The 
flats should make one complete revo- 
lution every 45 minutes. The wire 
fillet used should be No. 33 or 100 for 
cylinder and No. 35 or 120s for the 
doffer and top flats. 

THE CARD SETTINGS 
should be the same as given in a pre- 
vious article on indigo prints. Strip 
three times a day for a 10%-houi day 
and grind at least once a month. Keep 
the flats free froim fly and all quick 
motions well oiled, especially the main 
cylinder bearings, which, if not proper- 
ly attended to, beat up and cduse blis- 
tering. The draft of this card should 
be about 100; the weight of the sliver is 
60 grains per yard and the production 
is 700 pounds for a week of 60 hours. 
Watch the wire fillet to keep it sharp. 
For this sample we will consider the 
yarns to be combed. When this is 
the case, the sliver is taken from the 
card and put through the sliver lap 



A COTTON PABRIOS GLOSSARY. 



317 



machine, ribbon lap machine and the 
comber, or it may be taken from the 
card and put through a process of 
drawing, sliver lap and then to the 
comber. We will consider the former 
method. Here again a great deal de- 
pends on the size and make of comber 
being used. For this article we will 
take the older styles of six-head, 8%- 
inch lap, combers. The weight of a 
yard of lap at the sliver lap machine 
(doublings being 14 into 1) would be 
295 grains. At the rib'oon lap machine 
the doublings would be 6 into 1, and 
the weight of lap 260 to 275 grains 
per yard. The laps are put up at the 
combers and doubled G into 1. The 
weight of the sliver is 48 grains per 
yard. Sixteen per cent of waste is 
taken out at the comber. The comber 
sliver is next put through two proc- 
esses of 

DRAWING FRAMES. 
The weight of a yard of sliver at the 
finisher is 70 grains and the doublings 
6 into 1 at each process. Size four 
times a day and don't skip a size. This 
sliver is put up at the slubber and 
made into .60 hank roving. For the 
warp yarn this is put through two 
processes of fly frames; at the first in- 
termediate it is made into 2.25 hank 
and at the fine into 7.50 hank. This is 
taken to the ring frame and spun into 
36s on a frame with a 2%-lnch gauge, 
1 9-16-inch diameter ring, and a 6-inch 
traverse, the spindle speed being 9,600 
revolutions per minute. The yarn is 
then taken and spooled, warped and 
slashed. 

The slubber roving for the filling is 
also put through two processes of fly 
frames. At the flrst intermediate it 
is made into 2 hank and at the sec- 
ond into 5 hank, after which it is spun 
into 30s filling yarn on a frame with a 
2%-inch gauge, 1%-inch diameter ring, 
6-inch traverse, and spindle speed of 
7,350 revolutions per minute. This 
yarn is then taken and conditioned. 



Dyeing Particulars. . 

The dyeing of Turkey red has been 
handed down from generation to gen- 
eration for the last 500 years, and pos- 
sibly long before that time. The city 
of Adrianople, and also the city of 
Salonica, were formerly famous for 
this celebrated color. It is not so an- 
cient as indigo blue, because the 
clothes around mummies in Egypt 
2,000 years B. C. have indigo colors 
on them. The original Turkey red 
was a process of long duration. Thir- 
ty days were often consumed before 
the finished cloth or yarn was pro- 
duced. 



The cloth was oiled in olive oil, 
dried, and hung up in long chambers 
for some days, to age the goods, and 
fix the oil in the fihre. The goods 
were then oiled again, and aged, the 
process being repeated several times. 

The short process of Turkey red is 
to oil with a solution of Turkey red 
oil, 20 per cent, and then dry. Oil 
again and dry, and allow to re- 
main for a few hours in that 
state, and pass through a solu- 
tion of acetate of alumina at 
ti degrees Tw. Dry in hot air 
and pass through a dunging bath 
of cow dung and bi-arseniate of 
soda. Tnis process will take away 
the surplus mordant from the 
cloth, and fix the alumina in the 
fibre. The cloth is well washed in 
water, and then dyed with about 15 
per cent alizarine red paste, 4 per 
cent bullock's blood, 1% per cent nut- 
galls, and enoug'h acetate of lime to 
correct the water. 

The goods are dyed for one hour, 
and well rinsed, dried and passed 
through a solution of furkey red oil, 
about 5 per cent, dried, and steamed 
for one hour. The goods are then well 
soaped in a strong bath of hot soap, 
and well rinsed, and finished as re- 
quired. 

^-»-> 

LAMP WICKING, 



Lamp wicking is usually constructed 
of coarse low-grade cotton yarns. 
There are three general forms or 
types: hraid wicking, flat wicking and 
round, hose or tube wicking. 

They are made in sizes varying from 
a small fractio'n of an inch, in the 
braid and flat types, for miners' and 
similar lamps, tO' several inches in 
width, in the flat and round types, for 
large oil lamps and stoves. 

The principal objects sought to be 
secured in these goods are strengtli. 



mamaa 

DDIDS 
BaBDD 
■DDDS 

Fig. 1. 



PBFTBFBFTBFBr 

■niDBaDBDHDa 
nDBfflDDDBEBDDDB 

■■■aaBBBDDaBa 

■aafflDBDDaiCBDD 

A A A A 

6 times 

Fig. 2. 



onBDnDBDDnBnngBnDDBDnnBDODBDD 

■■■□■BBDBBBDaflBaBBBDBBflnBBflDB 
■■naSnnDSDDDBDDDBnDDJDCDBDDDB 
BDBBaaBBBDBBBDBBflaBBBDBBBaBBB 

^A A A A A A AAA 



3 times 

Fig. 3. 



thickness 
qualities. 



and moisture-absorbing 



318 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



BRAID WICKING. 

This differs from a solid braid, as in 
braided rope and clothes lines, in hav- 
ing a core of very soft, coarse roving, 
around which have been braided finer 
yarns of a good strength and quality. 
There are 10 strands of roving for the 
core and 32 ends of fine 2-ply mercer- 
ized yarn for the braided covering. 
The latter imparts the requisite 
strength to the fabric, while the other 
desirable qualities are furnished by the 
roving. This wick is so constructed 
that the core could be withdrawn 
without interfering with the construc- 
tion of the covering. There are about 
72 yards per pound. 

FLAT WICKING. 

There are three methods adopted for 
making heavy, thick fabrics: First, by 
means of coarse yarns; second, by 
means of compound structures of. 
cloth; third, by combining the first and 
second methods. 

Flat lamp wlcking requires an extra 
large surface, one deeper than can or- 
dinarily be obtained by using coarse 
yarns in a single weave structure. It 
is usually woven with coarse warp 
yarns and comparatively fine, strong 
filling yarns, with double plain weaves 
of equal structure arranged 1 and 1 
in both warp and filling, the two single 
fabrics being bound together into one 
compound fabric by other yarns, 
termed ties or binders, which interlace 
with both with more or less frequency. 
Where as firm a structure as is pos- 
sible is wanted, the ties are arranged 
as extras to work the single plain 
weave, as shown by the crosses in Fig. 
1. This entire figure is the base weave 
upon which the design for this wick- 
ing has been constructed. Ends 1 to 4, 
repeated, would form a tube or hose 
pipe fabric, the picks going first into 
one cloth and then the other on alter- 
nate picks. Solid type shows the face 
weave, type e the back weave, type 
face ends raised when back picks are 
inserted. Back ends are depressed on 
picks 1 and 3, when face picks are in- 
serted. The complete weave is shown 
in Fig. 2, and is on 38 ends and 4 picks. 
Letter F indicates face ends. B in- 
dicates back ends. T indicates ties. The 
arrows indicate where the ends are 
divided by the reed, ei^ht dents being 
used. 

The construction data of this wick- 
ing is as follows: Warp, 2-ply 5s cot- 
ton; filling, 2-ply IBs cotton; width, % 
inch; ends in wick, 38, of which seven 
are ties; picks per inch, ISVz. The 
warp contains very little twist in the 
single strands and only five turns per 
inch in the ply yarn. There are not 
any selvedges such as are usually made 
on other types of goods. 



ROUND, HOSE OR TUBE WICKING. 

This wicking has been made with 
weave Fig. 3, with two ends working to- 
gether as one. An examination of this 
will show that it is constructed on the 
same principle as the first four ends of 
Fig. 1, the two cloths being tied only 
at the sides where the filling changes 
from interlacing with one series at 
ends to the other series every pick. 
The arrows indicate where the ends 
are reeded. The two outer dents on 
each side contain only four ends eacli, 
whereas the remainder of the warp is 
reeded six ends (3 doubles) per dent 

The construction of this wickingi is 
as follows: Warp, 2-ply 5s cotton' soft 
twisted; filling, 3-ply l&s cotton; widtli, 
1% inches; ends in wick, 106 as 53; 
picks per inch, 28; yards per pound, 15. 
The warp yarns are arranged 52 ends 
of white and 1 of blue, repeated once. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

For braid wicking a braiding ma- 
chine is required. For fiat and round 
wicking, narrow ware cam looms, vary- 
ing in construction according to the 
weight and width of wicking to be 
woven, are used. 

For the narrow wicking an ordinary 
tape loom may be used, in which each 
wicking has Its separate warp or warps. 
The warps for wide wicking are. 
usually run on wide beams, and the 
yarn divided in the loom. In order to 
make a soft wicking on these the ty- 
ing ends are run from a beam as in 
an ordinary loom. The other yarns 
are run from one or two separate 
beams, and are regulated by an at- 
tachment TvTiich draws them forward 
in a positive manner in order to avoid 
the strain usually caused wben the 
yarn has to draw the beam forward. 

Each of the fabrics under considera- 
tion has been woven from one beam. 
In the flat wicking the plain ends work 
tighter than the other ends on account 
of the larger number of interlacings. 
This causes them to sink below the 
plane occupied by the double cloth 
ends and also causes the latter to be 
and appear somewhat loose. 
FINISHING. 

There is practically no finishing 
given these goods, as they are simply 
cut into definite lengths and packed, 
after being woven. The yarn for some 
of the wicking is bleached or dyed be- 
fore being woven. Where colored 
yarns are used, they are usually ar- 
ranged in the warp to make a striped 
fabric. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Manufacturers of wicking generally 
buy their yarns from cotton yarn 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



319 



mills and it is in this latter class of 
mills that coarse and fine counts of 
yarns are made. Generally speaking, 
the so-called yarn mills do not belong 
to any of the divisions of mills given 
in a previous article, but are rather 
in a class or division by themselves, 
being ready and equipped to fill orders 
for all counts of yarn, either carded or 
combed. Of course there are yarn 
mills making a specialty of fine yams, 
but, generally speaking, this class of 
mills make yarn for the knitting 
trade, which as a rule does not call 
for as high counts of yarn as a fine 
goods mill. 
' In this class of mills a great many 

MORE CHANGES 
are made than in mills making cloth, 
Some of the latter mills' card rooms 
running from one year's end to the 
next without a change in the hank rov- 
ing or stock, whereas in the yarn mills 
changes are made daily. This is on ac- 
count of filling the orders for small 
knitting plants, of which there are a 
great number throughout the country. 
Generally speaking, more care has to 
be used in a yarn miil than in a cloth 
mill, both on account of the many 
changes and also on account of the 
yarn being sold and not woven in the 
same mill, where the smaller defects 
may be covered. Of course, in both 
mills the yarn should run as even as 
possible, but this fault should be look- 
ed after particularly in yarn mills. In 
yarn mills 

THE TWIST 
of the yarn is less than in cloth mills, 
and thie class of mills is generally 
equipped with mules instead of spin- 
ning frames to obtain this result. Par- 
ticular care should be taken in yarn 
mills to see that no "mix-ups" occur 
in any part of the card room on ac- 
count of the carelessness of those 
changing the gears, and it is a good 
idea to have specially prepared forms 
to be filled out when each change is 
made at the slubbers, fly frames and 
mules or spinning frames. After these 
forms are made out by the one mak- 
ing the change, they should be handed 
in and checked by the overseer. 

For making the tube wicking, the 
counts of the yarn are as follows: 2-ply 
5s warp soft twist and 3-ply 15s regu- 
lar twist, while the filling or centre 
portion or core is made up of 2-ply 
1 hank roving. These counts of yarn 
are all made from the same 

STAPLE AND GRADE 
of cotton, generally cotton from % to 1 
inch in staple of a good grade being 



used. In large mills an opening shed 
is built and the cotton is opened and 
fed to the opener hoppers or feeders, 
several being placed in a row and 
from here blown over to the mill prop- 
er, where it is received and carried 
by arrangements of endless belts to its 
proper bins. When the cotton is thus 
opened it is in a dry, fluffy state and 
may be used at once and does not have 
to stand, as is the case when the cot- 
ton is mixed by the hand method, 
which has been previously described. 
The cotton is put through a feeder 
and three processes of pickers. The 
feeder picker should always be kept 
filled up with cotton, so that the lift- 
ing apron will always be filled up. 
The breaker beater is equipped with 
two sets of cages and two beaters. The 
breaker beater has three arms and 
blades, and its speed is 1,400 revolu- 
tions per minute. 

THE FRONT BEATER 
has two blades and its speed is also 1,- 
400 revolutions per minute, but it must 
be remembered that the cotton does 
not receive as much beating as it does 
at the three-bladed beater,on account of 
having one less blade. The weight of a 
yard of lap at the machine is 16 ounces. 
On the breaker picker there is no even- 
er and the amount of cotton fed is 
regulated by the distance of the pin 
or stripping beater from the lifting 
apron. The laps from this machine 
are put up and doubled 4 into 1 at the 
intermediate picker. 

This picker is generally equipped 
with a two-bladed beater, its speed 
being 1,400 revolutions per minute. 
The weight of a yard of lap at the 
front is 12 ounces. This picker has an 
evener, which should be looked after 
carefully to see that it is doing Its 
duty. The laps from this picker are 
put up at the 

FINISHER PICKER, 
and doubled 4 into 1. This picker may 
be equipped with either a two-bladed 
rigid beater or a pin beater which has 
three arms equipped with pins. If thb 
latter beater is used, the speed for this 
style should be 1,400 revolutions per 
minute. The weight of a 50-v-ard lap 
should be 46 pounds or a 14.7-ounce 
per yard lap. 

Every lap should be weighed and a 
variation of one-half a pound either 
side of standard allowed. All laps 
which vary more than this should 
be put back to be run over again. Care 
should be taken to see that every lap 
is weighed, and if laps do not weigh 
within the limit, the evener should be 



320 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



adjusted to allow the next lap to come 
within this weight limit. These laps 
are put up at the card, the draft of 
which should not exceed 100. The 
speed of the flats should be one revolu- 
tion ever J' 40 minutes (110 flats) ; the 
speed of the llcker-in 300 revolutions 
per minute and the doffer about 13^^ 
revolutions per minute. The gener- 
al instruction for settings, grind- 
ing and stripping given previously 
may be followed. The 

PRODUCTION OF A CARD 
for 60 hours for this class of work is 
850 pounds and the weight of the sliver 
65 grains per yard. If the yarn is 
combed, it passes through the sliver 
lap machine, where it is doubled 16 in- 
to 1 for an 8%-inch lap, the weight per 
yard being 420 grains. These laps are 
put up at the ribbon lap machine and 
doubled 6 into 1. The weight of a 
yard of lap at this machine is 440 
grains for a lOi/^-inch lap. The rib- 
bon lap machines should be sized 
twice a day and a variation of seven 
grains per yard allowed before chang- 
ing the draft gear. These laps are 
put up on an 8-head comber and dou- 
bled 8 into 1. The weight of a yard 
of sliver at the delivery end of this 
machine should be about 65 grains per 
yard. 

THE SAME SETTINGS 
and timing for this machine may be 
used as have been given previously for 
a 6-head, 8%-inch lap comber of the 
Heilman type of combers. The per- 
centage of waste taken out is 18. This 
sliver is then put through two process- 
es of drawing, the weight at the fin- 
isher drawing being 70 grains per yard. 
If the cotton is not combed, three 
processes of drawing frames are used, 
the weight of the sliver being the same 
as when combed. Size drawing four 
times a day, allowing two grains either 
side of standard weight. The draw- 
ing sliver is next put through the slub- 
ber and made into .40 hank roving. 
From here it is passed to the first in- 
termediate fly frame and made into 1 
hank roving. The roving for the core 
is twisted slightly more than that used 
for the warp and filling yarns, gener- 
ally 1 or 2 less teeth used on the 
twist gear being sufficient. The rov- 
ing for the core is then twisted into 2- 
ply. For the warp yarn the yarn is 
soft spun at the mule into 5s yarn and 
then twisted into 2-ply yarn. For the 
filling yarn the first intermediate rov- 
ing requires one more process of fiy 
frames, which makes it into 3-hank 
roving. This is taken either to the 
mule room or the spinning room and 



spun into 15?, after which it is twisted, 
being made into 2-ply 15s yarn. 

The rules and instructions for the 
top rolls given in previous articles may 
also be applied to this article. 



EOLIENHE, 



Bolienne is the name applied to 
a fine dress fabric characterized by 
having the filling of a much coars- 
er count than the warp, and 
in consequence producing a cord- 
ed effect across the breadth of the 
goods. This class of goods is made 
up of a raw silk warp and either cot- 
ton or wotristed filling, with the warp 
ends per linch greatly in excess of picks 
per inch. 

In fabrics constructed on this basis 
THE WARP THREADS 
practically cover the filling and pro- 
duce — with a silk warp — a very glossy 
fabric, another feature of an eolienne. 

This fabric finds favor with the fem- 
inine sex. practically the year around, 
being very popular for dressy indoor 
occasions in the cooler periods of the 
year, as well as dressy outdoor wear 
for summer. 

The goods are made up in the gray, 
then dyed in the piece, in any color 
that the trade desires. The darker 
shades find most favor for fall and 
winter use, while the lighter shades 
are preferred for summer wear. Eo- 
liemne 

VARIES IN WIDTH. 
The cotton filling fabric finish<es at 27 
inches, while the better grade worsted 
filling finisihes at 40 inches and retails 
at from 85 cents to $1.25 per yard and 
the narrow cotton filling fabric retails 
at from 25 to 45 cents per yard. The 
variation in priice is naturally in- 
fluenced by the material in the goods, 
that iSj the ends and picks per inch, 
consequently we find a comparatively 
wide range in the construction of theise 
fabrics. The manufacturer, however, 
must bear in mind that the fabrics 
should be perfectly firm in order to 
withstand the wear of a dress fabric. 

PLAIN WOVEN FABRICS 
lend themselves more readily to a va- 
riation in texture with a g:iven count 
of yarns than does any other method 
of interlacing warp and filling threads, 
this being due to plain woven fajbric3 
having more intersections to the repeat 
of the weave than any other weave. 

In varying the texture, we must bear 
in mind the nature of the material to 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



321 



be used, as certain kinds of yarns re- 
quire less ends per inch, than others of 
a given count to produce a firm fab- 
ric. In tlie constinictdon of an eolienne 
which is made up of a siillt warp, silk, 
being the smoothesit of textile fibres, 
would require more threads per inch 
than a fabric composed of woolen 
fibres, as the silk threads will not oling 
to one another or full up in the finish- 
ing as would a fabric composed of 
woolen fibres; consequently silk warp 
fabrics usually have a very high warp 
texture. 

ANALYSIS. 

Ootton filling fabrics: Width of 
warp in reed, 30 inches; width of fab- 
ric finished, 28 inches; ends per inch 
in reed, 90; ends per inch, finished, 96. 

Reed, 45x2. 

Silk warp, 21-23s dennier silk; cotton 
filling, 2-50s combed cotton; 5S picks. 

WORSTED FILLING EOLIENNE. 

Width of warp in reed, 44 inches; 
width of fabric, finished, 40 inches; 
ends per inch in reed, 150; ends per 
inch, finished, 166. 

Reed, 50x3. 

Silk warp, 21-23s dennier silk; total 
number of ends in warp, 6,600; 40 ends 
additional each side for selvedge, 80; 
total, 6,680 ends. 

Worsted filling. l-50s French spun; 
picks per inch, 64. 

These fabrics may be woven on any 
light, smooth running roller or dobby 
loom. The warp is drawn straight on 
eight harnesses through French string 
heddles. The speed of the loom may 
with advantage run from 130 to 140 
picks per minute. 

FINISHING. ' 

Eolienne requires little in this re- 
spect. After the goods reach the dye 
house, they are boiled off, then dyed as 
desired, run through the rotary press 
and made up into laps or rolls of 
about 40-yard pieces. Then they are 
ready for the commission house. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns for eolienne are made in 
mills of the third division as given in 
a previous article. The count of yarn 
taken for an example of this class of 
goods is 2-50s cotton filling, the warp 
yams being made of raw silk. In this 
article we will give the foundation for 
making this count of yarn for this 
class of goods. While the count of 
yarn is not what would be called a fine 
one, still the general construction of 
the goods calls for a fairly good 
length of staple of a good grade of cot- 
ton, sometimes the yarns being mer- 
cerized and gassed. The sample calls 



for a cotton of good grade of from IV^ 
inch to 1 9-16 inch staple. This cotton 
is put through two processes of pick- 
ing, the speed of the beaters being 1,- 
500 and 1,250 revolutions per minute, 
respeotively,for the beater and finisher. 
The weight of the lap at the finisher 
should be 37^/^ pounds, or a 12-'0unce 
lap. The card should be equipped with 
35s wire fillet for the cylinder and 37a 
for doffer and flats. The speed of the 
licker-in should not exceed 300 revolu- 
tions per minute; the speed of the 
flats, one complete revolution every 40 
minutes, and about 9% per cent of 
dirt, strip, etc., taken out. Strip 
three times a day and grind as be- 
fore stated. 

SETTINGS 
should be close. Special attention 
should be paid to the licker-in, both 
as regards its speed and also as to its 
setting. The feed plate should be set 
far enough away not toi break the 
staple and not so far as to allow 
the licker-in to continuously draw 
bunches into the cylinder. The 
draft should be about 110 and the 
weight of the sliver 55 grains 
per yard. The production should not 
exceed 525 pounds tor a week of 60 
hours. The cotton sliver is next put 
through a sliver lap machine, the 
doublings for an 8%-inch lap being 
16 into 1, the weight being 400 grains 
per yard. These laps are put up at the 
ribbon lap machine and doubled 6 into 
1, and made into a lap on a 10% -inch 
spool. The weight of this lap should 
be about 420 grains. These are put up 
at the comber and doubled 8 into 1. For 
the Heilman machine the end cam 
should be set as follows: with the 80- 
tooth gear out of mesh, set roller on 
pawl arm in heel of large cam, 
turn index gear to 5% and slide 80- 
tooth gear into mesh and bolt. Set de- 
taching rolls to fluted segment with 
21 gauge. Set nippers to open at 3V2 
index gear and close at 9^/4. Set lift- 
ers down at 6% and up at S% to 9; 
top combs down at 5; detaching rolls 
beginning to move at 6 and feed roll 
at 4, or according to amount of waste 
to be taken out. Set cushion plate to 
half lap with an 18 gauge and top combs 
to fluted segment with a 21 gauge. Use 
a 15-16-inoh stock gauge. Use a 30-de- 
gree angle on nipper knife. For this 
stock take out IS to 20 per cent waste. 
The weight of the sliver delivered is 
60 grains per yard. Speed of comber is 
100 nips per minute. 
The sliver is next put through 
TWO PROCESSES 
of drawing frames. For this class of 
goods use a front roller speed of 350 



322 



A eOTTO'N FABRICIS GLOSSARY. 



and have leather top rolls well var- 
nished and see that all stop-motions 
work properly. 

Weight of sliver at finisher drawing 
frame is 70 grains per yard. At the 
slubber make .55 hank roving and use 
three processes of fly frames, the hank 
roving at each being 1.25 at first; 4 at 
second, and lOi/^ at fine frame. Spin 
the roving into 50s, on a ring frame, 
with a 2%-inch spindle gauge, 1^4- 
inch diamond ring and a 5-inch trav- 
erse. If mercerized yarn is wanted, 
spin with a soft twist, otherwise use 
the regular cloth twist, which for this 
yarn would be as follows: twist per 
inch, 22.98; revolutions per minute of 
front roller, 100 plus; revolutions per 
minute of spindle, 7,250. After which 
the yarn goes through the usual proc- 
esses to be twisted into 2-ply 50s. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

PINK. 

One-quarter per cent Erika pink G; 
1 per oenit sal soda; 10 per cent Glau- 
ber's salt. 

LIGHT BLUE. 
One-half per cent diamine S K blue; 
1 per cent sal soda; 10 per cent Glau- 
ber's salt. 

OLIVE. 
TWO per cent diamine green G; V2 
per cent diamine fast yellow B; % per 
cent diamine brown B; 1 per cent sal 
soda; 20 per cent Glauber's. 
HELIOTROPE. 
Two per cent diamine heliotrope; 1 
per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's salt. 

NAVY BLUE. 
Eight per cent immedial indigo B; 
8 per cent sulphide sodium; 5 per cent 
soda; 20 per cent Glauber's. 
MYRTLE. 
Eight per cent immedial deep green 
B; 8 per cent sulphide sodium; 5 per 
cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's. 
FAWN BROWN. 
One per cent diamine brown B; % 
per cent diamine fast yellow B; Vz per 
cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glauber's. 
SEAL BROWN. 
Four per cent diamine brown B; 1 
per cent diamine fast yellow B; 1 per 
cent diamine catechine B; i/^ per cent 
sal soda; 30 per cent salt. 
BLACK. 
Ten per cent immedial black N N; 
10 per cent sulphide of sodium; 30 per 
cent Glauber's salt; 5 per cent soda 
ash. 



SAGE GREEN. 
One-half per cent diamine green G; 
1 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent salt. 
PEARL. 
One-sixteenth per cent diamine 
dark blueG; 1 per cent, sal soda; 20 
per cent Glauber's. 

SLATE. 
One per cent diamineral black B; 1 
per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- 
ber's. 

♦-♦-♦ 

HANDKERCHIEFS. 



Cotton handkerchiefs are constructed 
in various ways. Some are made from 
ordinary plain cotton cloth cut up and 
either hemmed, embroidered (usually 
with initials) or ornamented with Bat- 
tenburg or other forms of lace. Others 
are what may be termed "made in the 
loom," and are of such types as hem- 
stitched, in which a leno weave is used 
for the four borders to make a per- 
forated effect, and corded handker- 
chiefs, in which corded effects are 
made for both the side and cross bor- 
ders. 

They vary in size, weight and qual- 
ity, from the utilitarian red bandanna 
to the ladies' dainty ornamental lace 
article. 

In a characteristic handkerchief of 
the cord type, the layout of the entire 
warp, including the drawing-in draft, 
is as follows: 





Ends 




Harness. 


Dents. 


Selvedge 


32 


as 


16 


1 


2 






8 




32 






3 


4 


5 


6 


16 




'10 


as 


2 




7 


8 




2 




6 






3 


4 


5 


6 


8 




10 


as 


2 




7 


8 




8 




6 






5 


6 


3 


4 


3 




10 


as 


2 




7 


8 




2 




14 






3 


4 


5 


6 


7 


Border ■ 


40 


as 


8 




7 


8 




8 




14 






5 


6 


3 


4 


7 




10 


as 


2 




7 


8 




8 




6 






3 


4 


5 


6 


8 




10 


aa 


2 




7 


8 




2 




6 






5 


6 


3 


4 


8 




10 


as 


2 




7 


8 




8 


Body 1 


080 






3 


4 


5 


6 


540 




152 






Draw border 


46 




56 






3 


4 


5 


6 


28 

Skip 1 




56 






3 


4 


5 


6 


28 




162 






Draw border 


46 


1 


080 






Draw body 


640 




162 






Draw border 


46 




32 






3 


4 


5 


6 


16 


Selvedge 


32 


as 


16 




1 


2 




8 



3008 ends 1369 

From the above layout it will be 
seen that two handkerchiefs are woven 
in the loom at the same time, side by 
side, one empty dent separating them, 
and that one bea.m only has been used. 
Each warp cord border consists of 100 
ends working as 20. 

THE SAME EFFECT 
could be obtained by using a coarser 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



323 



yarn, but the probabilities are that if 
this was done it would become neces- 
sary to use two beams. Twenty-eight 
dents have been occupied between the 
cords and centre empty dent to allow 
ample width for turning the edges un- 
der for hemming purposes. 

The construction data of this hand- 
kerchief are as follows: Warp counts, 
32s; fl'lling counts, 40s; ends per inch, 
72 in plain part, 79 average; picks per 
inch, 70 in plain part, 77 average; 
ends in handkerchief, 1,504; picks in 
handkerchief, 1,454; width in loom, 40 



eral devices or loom attachments now 
on the market, comprising double or 
more cylinder repeater, multiplier, or 
handkerchief motions. 

Most of these require separate chain 
bars for the two borders and a certain 
number of bars for the plain, varying 
according to the type of motion used. 

Fig. 1 shows the chain draft that has 
been used to produce the handkerchief 
referred to, with the layout shown; 86 
double-index bars have been used for 
each handkerchief, one for the plain in 
centre and borders, and 85 for the cord 



Repeater 
motion.* 

nmaaaua 
ajmamaa 
umamaaa 
aaaaamn 
amomama 
aaamama 
naaaaaa 

DaBDBDa 

naanaaB 

DDBDHDH 

oaaBDHa 
ananaaa 
naaaaaa 
aaaaaaa 
aaaaaaa 
aaaaaaa 
aaoaaan 
naaaaaa 
aaaaaaa 
aaaaaaa 
naaaaaa 
aaaaaaa 
aaaaaaa 
aaaaaaa 
aaaanaa 
aaaaaaa 
aaaaaaa 
oaaaaaa 
aaaaaaa 
aaaaaaa 
aaaanaa 
aaaaaaa 
aaaaaaa 
aaaaaaa 
naaaaaa 
aaaaaaa 
aaaaaaa 
naaaaaa 
aaaaaaa 
naaaaaa 
naaaaan 
naaaaaa 
naaaaaa 
naaaaaa 
nnaaaaa 
naaaaaa 
naaaaaa 
naaaaaa 
naaaaaa 
aaaaaaa 
aaaaaaa 
aaaaaaa 



stop 
pegs. 

a 
a 
a 
a 
a 
a 
a 
a 



a y Plain bar for body and plain In border. 

1 



Repeat = 2S picks = 14 bars. 



10 picks = 5 bars. 



S l6 times = 12 picks = 6 bars. 

51 



.Repeat = 28 picks = 14 bars. 



S5 bars for cross border. 
1 bar for plain 



. Total, 86 bars for handkerchief. 



Pig. 1. 



inches; width in gray, 38 inches; 
weight, 4.5 yards per pound. 

One of the principal points to consid- 
er in handkerchief weaving is the ar- 
rangement of the chain draft for the 
filling pattern and loom mechanism so 
that there will not be. any more bars 
of pattern chain used" than is neces- 
sarj\ 

THE FILLING PATTERN 
of the handkerchief under considera- 
tion contains 1,454 picks. On an ordi- 
nary dobby head this would require 727 
bars of double index, or 1,454 bars of 
single index chain. To avoid this ex- 
cessive amount of chain there are sev- 

• Repeater motion refers only to left- 
hand vertical series of squares. 



cross borders, with a repeat motion 
that is not on the market. The sel- 
vedges have been woven plain. The 
harnesses for these have not been in- 
dicated on the chain draft,because they 
are worked in a positive manner by 
the lifter knives. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

The handkerchief was woven in a 
single box dobby loom from one beam. 
It might at first thought appear to be 
an advantage to weave cross borders of 
this type with coarse filling in a 2x1 
box loom, using one pick of coarse in- 
stead of five picks of fine filling, but 
the lower speed at which it is neces- 
sary to run box looms and the more 
attention they require from weaver 



324 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



and loom fixer, lessen this seeming ad- 
vantage. Single box cam looms, witli 
handkerchief motions attached, in 
which sliding cams work the plain 
weave or remain in an open-shed posi- 
tion for a number of picks as required, 
are sometimes used. These admit of a 
much greater speed and steadier mo- 
tion than dobby looms. 

FINISHING. 

Cord handkerchiefs are usually 
bleached, cut, hemmed, folded, pressed 
and made up as required. Plain cloth 
handkerchiefs are similarly treated or 
are printed, usually red and white or 
blue and white, instead of being 
bleached. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yarns that compose handker- 
chiefs are made in mills of the sec- 
ond and third divisions, as given in a 
previous article. Generally speaking, 
handkerchief yarns are combed, even 
the coarser yarns for the poorer qual- 
ity of handkerchiefs. The handker- 
chief taken for a sample is made up 
of 32s warp yarns and 40s filling 
yarns, and it is often found that a 
different count of yarn is used In the 
«ords- 

For the sample under description, a 
good quality of American cotton of 
about 1 5-16 to 1% staple would be 
used. This would be mixed, as has 
been before described, 

MACHINE MIXING 
being used if possible, as it leaves 
the cotton in a more desirable condi- 
tion. An opener and three proc- 
esses of picking are used, although in 
some fine cloth mills only two proces- 
ses of picking are used, and excellent 
results obtained. Some overseers con- 
sider that an intermediate picker is 
not necessary, and,' in fact, claim that 
instead of benefiting the cotton, it is 
a detriment, as it puts neps into the 
cotton. While this may be true, good 
results are obtained by either process, 
and one has to be governed by cir- 
cumstances as he finds them, as it 
very often happens in a cotton mill 
that no hard and fast rule can be giv- 
en, the object being toget a good clean, 
even yarn with strength, and on the 
mark as to count, and also to get 
as much as possible as cheap as pos- 
sible. At the feeder have it feeding 
as even as possible and remember 
that on the pin roller 

DEPENDS THE EVENNESS 
of the lap at the breaker. The break- 
er is equipped with two sets of cages 



and beaters, the breaker beater hav- 
ing three blades, and making 1,400 
revolutions per minute, while the 
front beater has two blades, and al- 
so makes 1,400 revolutions per min- 
ute. It will thus be seen that the 
cotton passing under the three-bladed 
beater receives one-third more beat- 
ing than when passing under the for- 
ward beater of the same machine. A 
full lap should weigh 40 pounds, or 
a 16-ounce lap. If three processes of 
pickers are used, these laps are doub- 
led 4 into 1 at the intermediate 
picker. The total weight of a lap at 
this machine should be 3S pounds, or 
a 14-ounce lap. At the finisher pick- 
er the doublings are also 4 into 1. 
The speed of a beater of this picker is 
1,425, if equipped with a pin beat- 
er, and 1,450 if a two-bladed rigid 
type is used. The total 

WEIGHT 

of a lap is 37% pounds for a 40-yard 
lap, or a 15-ounce lap. All the laps 
as they are taken off the picker should 
be weighed, a variation of one-half 
a pound either side of the standard 
weight , being allowed. The roving 
waste (cut) should be mixed as be- 
fore stated, or better still if it is run 
through a special roving machine, 
and then put back into the mixing. 
In this manner scarcely any "lickin" 
laps are made, granted, of course, that 
too much cut waste is not being made, 
or too little cotton being used. Cut 
roving waste and also card, sliver 
lap, ribbon lap, comber and drawing 
frame good waste is a serious prob- 
lem, and it should not be allowed to 
accumulate, but should be used up as 
fast as made. The laps are put up 

AT THE CARD. 

This card is, generally speaking, the 
so-called English card. It should have 
as large a doffer as possible, either a 
26 or 27 inch diameter being used by 
mill men nowadays. The size of wire 
fillet used should be that used _ for 
making medium counts of yarn, i. e., 
No. 34 or 110s for cylinder, and No. 
36s or 130s for doffer and flats. The 
draft of the card should not be less 
than 110. The speed of the !icker-in 
should be about 400 revolutions per 
minute. The flats should make one 
complete revolution every 40 minutes. 
Strip, grind and set as given in pre- 
vious articles. The production of the 
card for a week of 60 hours should be 
600 pounds. If this yarn is to be 
combed, it is generally run through 
the sliver lap machine, where it is 
doubled 14 into Land weighs 250 grains 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



525 



per yard for an 8%-inch lap, after 
which it is put up at the ribbon lap 
machine and doubled 6 into 1, the 
weight of a yard of lap at the front 
being 275 grains. These laps should 
be 

SIZED TWICE A DAY, 

a variation of 5 grains per yard eith- 
er side of the standai^d weight 
being allowed before changing. 
At the combei use the sajie settings, 
timings and gauges as given in the last 
article. The combed sliver should 
weight 45 grains for a 6-head comber, 
and proportionately more for an 8-head 
comber. For these goods about 15 per 
cent of waste is taken out. Watch the 
needles on the half laps and top 
combs, for remember that if these are 
broken or bent, the cotton is not receiv- 
ing its proper combing, and as this 
is an extra item in the cost, these lit- 
tle points should be looked after. An- 
other part of the comber to watch is 
the table, to keep it free from dirt and 
oil, and well polished and smooth at 
all times. This is because after leav- 
ing the comber the cotton receives 
no more cleaning, so that dirt even in 
the sliver is apt to stay there. 

PERCENTAGES OF THE COMBER 

should be taken frequently and all 
comber percentages kept as even as 
possible, for if thei*e is nauch varia- 
tion it will show up and make uneven 
yarn. Another point to watch is 
the leather top rolls. These should 
be kept well varnished, with a v.^r- 
nish which will last at least three 
weeks, although the detaching rolls 
should be given one coat of varnish 
every week. Varnish should be ap- 
plied with a brush. At the drawing 
frame, the comber silver Is put 
through two processes, the doublings 
being 8 into 1 at the breaker, and 6 
into 1 at the finisher. The weight per 
yard at the finisher drawing frame 
is 70 grains per yard. At this ma- 
chine 

THE MAIN POINTS 
to watch are the knock-off motions, 
roller settings and top rolls. For 
drawing frame top leather rolls a 
varnish should be used which is 
smoother and glossier than that used 
for the comber rolls. Usually this _ is 
obtained bj^ using "Venetian red, in- 
stead of burnt sienna, as a color 
mixing. At the slubber, the drawing is 
made up into .60 hank roving. Watch 
the twist and tension. If top leath- 
er rolls are varnished, the same var- 
nish as is used for the drawing frame 
may be used, except for the fact that 



it is thinned down by adding acetic 
acid or vinegar. The roving is then 
put through two processes of fly 
frames. At the first intermediate it is 
made into 2 hank, and at the fine 
it is made into G% for warp, and 
8 hank for filling. At these frames 
watch the following parts: tension, 
twist, setting of steel rolls, traverse 
and roving waste. Be sure to have no 
dead spindles. The 

YARN FOR THE FILfLING 

is spun into 40s on a frame with a 
]%-inch diameter ring, 5i/^-inch trav- 
erse, and a spindle speed of 8,800 
revolutions per minute, after which 
the filling is conditioned, and is then 
ready for weaving. The roving for 
warp is spun into 32s, on a frame with. 
2%-inch gauge, 1%-inch diameter ring, 
and spindle speed of 10,000 revolutions 
per minute. The yarn is then spooled, 
warped and put through a slasher, and 
run upon a beam at the front. Gener- 
ally speaking, this beam is made up of 
sections of small beams known as 
handkerchief beams, on which are 
wound the required number of ends. 



DIAPER CLOTH. 

Cotton diaper cloth may be con- 
sidered a staple fabric, being made 
in the same widths, grades and pat- 
terns year in and year out. 

Standard widths are 18 inches, 20 
inches, 22 inches, 24 inches and 27 
inches. 

Essential qualities required for 
these goods are freedom from foreign 
matter, and ability to absorb mois- 



QDBaaDMD 
□■DODDDB 
■DDDBDDQ 
DBaDDDnB 

nomaaama 
onDiiDBaD 

Fig. 1. 



4 i 

3 3 

2 2 

I 

?ig. 2. 



rBDDDHQ 
■DDaBQLj 

ijBu«Gaa 

■JBDDDa 
DBDBDDD 

manamaa 

DBDDDBD 

■aaaaaa 

Fig 3. 



ture. Being subjected to excessive 
washings when in use, they have to 
be of fair quality. 

For the ordinary qualities of goods, 
Allen Seed, Benders, Mobile, New 
Orleans and Texas cotton of middling 
and strict middling grades are used. 
In the lower qualities, card and rov- 
ing waste is used for the filling. 
CONSTRUCTION. 

A diaper fabric under consideration 



326 



A COTTON FABRICS CLOSSARY. 



Is constructed as follows: Width, 18% 
inches, probably intended for 18 inch- 
es; ends per inch, 62; picks per inch, 
46; warp counts, 30s; filling counts, 
14s ; weight, 7.83 yards per pound; 
weave, Fig. 1. The selvedges consist 
of 24 ends of 30s as 12 on each side, 
and have been reeded 4 ends per 
dent; they weave plain. The body ot 
the cloth has been reeded two ends 
per dent. 

The combination of a filling flush 
weave, only one end out of 4 being 
up on each pick, and a soft, coarse 
filling as compared to the warp, tends 
to make the face of the cloth very 
soft. This is aided by the finishing 
process, which renders the fabric ab- 
sorbent to a large degree, as well as 
antiseptic. 

Fig. 2 shows the centre or point 
harness draft, and Fig. 3 the chain 
draft, to use to produce the fabric 
under consideration. As harness 
number 5 works like harness number 
1, it might be omitted, and the ends 
drawn on number 1 instead. 

If the ends were drawn in straight, 
the chain draft would be similar to 
the weave, with, selvedges extra. 



BALINE. 



Baline comprehends a class of goods 
that is, in point of texture, between 
the coarser stuff known as burlap and 
the lighter and somewhat finer mate- 
rial known as canvas. 

Baline is practically a coarse kind of 
canvas. It is made from the best 
grades of jute, flax and hemp and is 
used for numerous purposes. The very 
coarse quality is used principally for 
wrapping merchaudise, and the finer 
grades are used for curtains and uphol- 
stery purposes, and also for stiffen- 
ing wearing apparel, etc. 

Baline, as used for stiffening wearing 
apparel, is inserted between the sur- 
face cloth and the lining, usually at 
the lapels and sleeves, in order both to 
stiifen and retain the shape or setting 
of that portion of the garment. 

THE GOODS 
are made in various widths; that used 
for upholstery purposes ranges from 



CALCULATIONS. 
46 (picks) X 20 (width in reed) x 100 (length of cut) 

= 7.82 lbs. filling. 

14 (counts) X 840 

100 (yds.) divided by 7.83 (yds. per pound) = 12.77 lbs. weight of cut. 

12.77 — 7.S2 = 4.95 lbs. warp. 

18% (width of cloth) x 62 sley = 1,162. 

1,162 + 24 tor selvedges = 1,186, total ends. 

1,186 (ends) x 105 (length) 

= 30s warp counts. 

4.95 (weight) x S40 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

Diaper cloth may be woven on sin- 
gle box dobby or cam looms. If wov- 
en on the latter, a cam arrangement 
of 8 picks to the round, with selvedge 
motion extra, would be required. As 
it is not necessary to stop production 
for ordinary misweaves, the cam loom 
would be the best to use on account 
of its steadier running. 

FINISHING. 

The object of the finishing process 
is to rid the fabric of the cotton wax 
and foreign matter, and render it ab- 
sorbent, white and clean. This is ac- 
complished by treating with an alka- 
line solution of caustic soda, bleach- 
ing, washing and drying. It is then 
sterilized by formaldehyde or steam, 
dried, and made up, usually in 10- 
yard bolts covered with a sealed 
wrapper. 



50 inches to 64 inches, and that used 
for tailoring purposes usually comes in 
narrow widths from 22 inches to 36 
inches. The narrow goods, however, 
are usually woven double width with 
h:si centre selvedges, then cut in two 
parts during the finishing. 

Baline is made in several qualities. 
The best grades are made up entirely 
of tow yarn, a short flax fibre, another 
grade is made with a combination of 
;ow yarn and hemp or jute, and the 
lower qualities are usually made en- 
tirely from either hemp or jute. 

In the combination fabric the hemp 
or jute usually figures as filling, while 
the flax or tow yam is used for the 
warp, because the latter is with less 
difficulty made up into a smoother and 
stronger thread than either hemp or 
jute. The 

WARP AND FILLING 
for these goods interlaces on the plain 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



327 



weave system. The goods used for 
decorating purposes are dyed in the 
piece and the prevailing colors are dark 
red, garnet, and various shades of blue. 
The goods used for wrapping ?nerchan- 
dise and tailoring purposes are finished 
in their natural color, which is a kind 
of drab, or light brown, depending 
on the material used in the construc- 
tion of the goods. 

The baline used for tailoring pur- 
poses is the finest in point of texture, 
and the goods used for decorative pur- 
poses closely resemble the common 
burlap, as far as texture is concerned. 
In the finishing, the coarser grade of 
baline receives considerable attention, 
being dyed and sheared, and pres6-".ts a 
much more attractive appearance than 
the common burlap, which is only 
pressed after it comes from the loom. 

Analysis of goods used for stiffening: 

Width in reed, double width, 50 
inches; finished at 47^ inches. 

Reed, 16x2, 34 picks per inch; warp, 
12 cut tow yarn; filling, 12 cut jute; 
ends in warp, 1,600; extra ends for all, 
8; total, 1,608; weight per yard, 15 
ounces. 

Take-up in warp during weaving 
about 15 per cent. 

FINISHING. 

The finishing of these goods depends 
entirely upon the use for which the fab- 
ric is intended. The quality used for 
upholstery purposes and curtains is 
dyed after the goods are woven, then 
sheared on both sides and usually soft- 
ened, especially so if intended for cur- 
tains. The goods used for tailoring 
purposes are finished in their natural 
color and stiffened. Some are stiffened 
much more than others, depending on 
the use for which they are made. The 
materials used for stiffening are glue 
and flour. If a very stiff finish is de- 
sired, equal proportions of giue and 
flour are used. The goods used for 
wrapping are merely sprinkled, then 
pressed, after which they are made up 
into rolls or laps. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

NAVY BLUB. 

Three and one-half per cent formyl 
blue B; 30 per cent Glauber's; 2 per 
cent alum. 

BLACK. 

Five per cent jute black G; 30 per 
cent Glauber's; 3 per cent alum. 

RED. 

Five per cent fast red R; 30 per cent 
Glauber's; 3 per cent alum. 



SKY BLUE. 

One per cent patent blue B; 25 per 
cent Glauber's; 3 per cent alum. 

Most of the acid colors can be dyed 
on this fabric with Glauber's and alum 
at the temperature of about 190 de- 
grees, in a jig dye machine The 
goods are boiled out with Glauber's 
salt and sal soda to soften the fibre a 
little before the dyeing operation. 

The addition of a little acetic acid the 
last fifteen minutes is beneficial to 
most colors. 



HONEYCOMB CLOTH. 



Honeycomb cloth derives its name 
from its very close resemblance to an 
ordinary wax honeycomb. 

In combination with other weaves 
the honeycomb type of weave is ex- 
tensively used in the manufacture of 
honeycomb and so-called crochet 
quilts. It is also used for cotton warp 
and wool filling shawls and baby car- 
riage robes, in which the warp is con- 
siderably finer than the filling in or- 
der that it will show as little as pos- 
sible. 

The honeycomb type of weave was 
formerly used to some extent in the 
construction of cotton toweling. The 
cell-like fabric, which is practically 
identical in appearance on both sides, 
would appear to be excellently adapted 
for toweling, the plain weave portions 
giving the necessary strength and the 
long floats of yarn readily absorbing 
moisture, but for some reason or other 
it is not seen in the miarket to any ex- 
tent at the present time. 

Low and medium counts of yarn are 
usually u.sed for honeycomb cloths. 

Figs. 1 and 2 illustrate two honey- 
comb weaves, on S ends by 6 picks and 
8 ends by 8 picks, respectively. A 
study of these will show that some 
ends and picks interlace more than 
others in a repeat of the weave and 
that they are constructed on diamond 
bases. 

Unlike the majority of single weave 
cloths, the effect in honeycomb cloth. 
differs entirely from that seen on the 
design paper, the diamond effect on the 
paper being substituted by the cellular 
effect in the cloth. This feature is due 
to the fact that yarns appear more or 
less prominent, when woven into the 
cloth, according to the smaller or 
greater amount of interlacings respec- 
tively. 



328 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



WEAVES. 

In the type of cloth under considera- 
tion the longer floats of warp and fill- 
ing form the ridges of the honeycomb 
cells, while the yarns which Interlace 
to a greater degree form the recesses 
of the same. The long warp floats 
on one side are opposite the filling 
floats on the other. 



oaDBHaaDiDBBana 
■DaBHaaaoBMBBa 
DaaaBaaaaaoBBBOa 
naaaaaBaaaaaflDaD 
DDDBnaDDDDDanaDn 
aaaaaaaDDoaDBcan 
aaaaa 
aaaaD 

aaaaa 

onsDfflDfflnnDaDanaD 
DnnfflDfflnDDnDBnaDn 
DDsnfflnfflnnnBDanaa 

Fig. 1. 



DnDanBDnDnaanana 
DDBnaDaDDDaaaaan 

DBaBaanaDBDBBBDB 
BDaaaaBDBCBBBBBO 

aaaaaaGBDaaaaaaa 
DoaoaoaDaaaaaDan 
DDaaaaDDDnnanann 
DDDDaDnnDDDcaDna 
DDDfflnfflDaDnDaDaDD 
DDsafflnffiDDDaDaDaD 
DfflDffissDSDaaaaaDa 
fflDssffiEBsnaaaaaaaa 



DDBDEBDEBDDaaDanan 
naofflnsDnnDDanaDD 
DanafflDDDDDonaDan 



Fig. 2. 



DDQanaoaanDGDaDaDanD 
DDaoaaaaaaaaaoaaaaaa 
aanaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaDa 
aoaaaaaaaDaaaaaaaaaa 
DaaaaaaaDaDauaaaaaca 
DDaaaaaDaaaaaDaaaaaa 
DDaaaaaaDDDDDaDaDBDn 

DDDDBDaDDaDDDDBDanna 

nnniiDiiiDGiDDDnDananann 
DDHiDBiiioiniiianDanaaanan 
DiiaiiiiiEOisaiiDaaaBaBaDB 
■caoHiiDBiiiiaaaaBaBaBaa 
DsaaiJiMiBDiiDaaBaaaaaa 

DDBDBIBinilDDDBDBaanBn 
DDDaaBDIlODDDDBDBnBDa 
DDnOBDEDDDDDDDBDaCDD 



weave is modified and strengthened by 
the addition of a plain weave around 
the diamond, or, t^s it is termed, a dou- 
ble diamond is used for a base. 

Fig. 5 illustrates a weave of this 
type. 

Fig. 6 illustrates another variation 
of the honeycomb weave on 12 x 12. 
The type of design illustrated in Figs. 
2 and 4 is the one generally used. The 
crosses in Figs. 1 to 4 indicate one 
repeat of the weave. 

These fabrics are made on ordinary 
dobby looms. One beam only is used. 



BRIGHTON' CLOTH, 



Fig. 3. 



Brighton cloth is distinguished by a 
general effect on the face somewhat 
similar to honeycomb cloth, but unlike 
the latter, it is not reversible, the ap- 
pearance on the back diifering from 
that on the face. The principal dif- 
ference between honej^comb and 
Brighton weave effects is that the cells 
of the former appear of uniform size, 
on the square or rectangular base, 
whereas those of the latter appear in 



DaDaBDaDDnDDDnananDn 

nnDBDaDBDDGDDBDBnaDD 

□DaaaanDaDDDaDaaaDaD 
DBDiiaaaaaaaBDaaaaaDB 
BaaBBaaBaaaDaaBaaaaa 
aaaaaaaaDaDaaaaaaaaa 
naaaaaaaaDDaaaaaaaaa 
DDDaDaaaDDnnnaDanann 
DDDDaDaDnDannnanaann 

DDDDDaDnnDDDDDDanDDa 

nnnaffinfflnnannnnaDaDDn 
DDDffiDfflDainDnDDanaDaDD 
DDSDSffiffiDSDDDaa Baaaaa 



iDaaaaaaaa 

jaaaaaaaaa 

DOEBDEassDraaoDaDBaaaaD 
nnafflnfflOffiDDDDDanaDanD 
DDDDonfflnDDDnnDanancn 
nnDDDBDDDannDaaaDDca 



Fig, 4. 



DDnnGDaDBnannnDD 

DDDDnBDBDBDBDDDD 
DaDDaDBDBDBDanDn 

DaDaaaDaaaaaoaGa 
DDanaDaaaaaoaDaa 
DaDaDBaaaaaaaaca 
BDaaBBBBBBBaaDaa 
GaDaaaaaaaaaaana 
anaGaaaaaaaaaGaG 
GaGaGaaaaaaaGBGa 
GGaGaaaaaaBGaGaa 

aaGBGBGBBBGBGBGa 

aaDnaGaGBaaaBQaa 
GGGaaaGaGBGaaaGG 
aaGaGGaaaGaaGGGa 
aGGGGaGaaaDDaaaa 

Fig. 5. 



GaGGaaaaaGGa 
aGaGGaaaaaaa 
uaGaGGaGDaaa 

GGBGaGGGBGaG 

GaaacaGanaGG 

GGGDaGaGaGDQ 

GGGaoaGaGaGG 
GoaGaGQaaGaG 
DaGaaGBGGaGB 

BGBGGaaaGGBG 

GaGGaaaaaGGa 
aGGaaaaaaaan 



Fig 6. 



Honeycomb weaves vary in size 
within certain limits. The larger the 
weave, the less firm the structure of 
the cloth. Figs. 3 and 4 illustrate 
weaves on 10 x 8 and 10 x 10, respec- 
tively. With the same amount of ma- 
terial, cloths constructed with these 
would not be as firm as they would if 
weaves Figs. 1 and 2 were substituted. 
. When large effects are desired, the 



GGGaaaGaaanaaaaa 
DGGGaGaGGGaGaaaG 
QaaGDaGDGGDaaaGD 
GGGGa _.aaaaGaaaaG 
GGGaGaGGGGGaaaGa 
aGaGaaaGGGaaaaaG 
GaGaaaaaaaaaaaaa 
aGaaaaaaaaaaaaaG 
GaaaaaaaGGGaaaGa 
GGaGaaaGGGGoaGaG 

GGGaGaGGGGGGGaGQ 

GGaaaaaaGGGDaaaG 
GGGaaaGaGGGaGaGG 
GDaaaaBGaaaGaaaG 
GaaaaaaaGBGaaaaa 

aaaaaaaGaaaaaaaa 



Fig. 1. 



aaaaDDDinanaaaGB 

BaaGGDaGBBBGaGBB 

aaaaGaDaaaaisGaaa 
aaaaaGaaaaaaacaa 
BaGaGGoaaaaaGaGa 
BaaGGaGaaaaaGDaG 

GBGaDGGanBDGGGGB 
BGaaDGGGBGGr GGQD 
GBGBGGGBBBGGaGGB 

■aBGBGaaBaBGL.Gan 
BaBBaaBaaaaaGBGa 
■BBaaGBBaaaGBGaa 
■BaaGBGBaaGaaDGa 
■aaoGGaGaGaDGGGG 

DaGGGGGaGaaGGaQG 
■DDaOGGGaGGGDGGG 



Fig. 2. 

two sizes, large and small, alternately, 
both warp way and filling way, on the 
drop or plain weave order base. 

Brighton cloth is not essentially a cot- 
ton cloth, the Brighton weave, which 
distinguishes the fabric, being used in 
fabrics made with other materials. 
The Brighton type of weave is used in 
making cloths intended tov dress goods, 
also in combination with other weaves 
to form parts of large jacquard pat- 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



329 



terns, in substitution for . the honey- 
comb weaves. 

In designing the jacquard patterns 
care must be exercised to have the 
Brighton weave correct, the long floats 
of warp and filling being in certain po- 
sitions in relation to each other, or the 
effect will be spoiled. For illustration. 
Figs. 1 and 2 are two weaves which 
at first glance appear to be similar. 
Fig. 1 is a correct Brighton weave and 
differs from Fig. 2 in having the long 



warp flush and two filling flush dia- 
monds of equal size. 

The ridges of the cells in the cloth 
are formed by the long floats of warp 
at the sides and the long floats of fil- 
ling at the top and bottom of each 
diamond. The two sizes of cells 
are formed by the intervals between 
the ridges being greater and less (as 
will be seen by Fig. 3, which simply 
indicates the ends and picks covered 
by the long fioats in one repeat of 



Fig. 3. 



Fig. 4. 

floats of yarn form a squar8,whereas in 
the latter they form a cross. Figs. 3 
and 4 represent the long floats in Figs. 
1 and 2, respectively, vertical lines 
indicating warp floats and horizontal 
lines filling floats. 

Figures 5 to 7 illustrate the several 
stages in the construction of a 12 x 12 
Brighton weave. Fig. 5 shows the 
12 X 12 diamond base. Crosses in Fig. 
6 indicate a second line of twill in one 
direction, added to the base, Fig. 5. 
Marks □ in Fig. 7 indicate where warp 
spots have been added in the left and 
right hand corners of the large spaces, 
the same now being divided into two 



DHnnaanDDnnB 

DCBDnDDDDOiin 

oaamaaoaoman 
DnDDBaDDBoaa 

DDDDnBnBDDDD 

DnDDDnBDDnDn 
DODBnaDDDBnn 

naBDODaDDDBQ 

DHnaaanDDDD" 

■DDDDDDDDDDa 

Tig. 5. 



■DBDananaHBD 
nnDBDaaanBDB 

DDaaBDDDBGBa 
nnaHDBOHDBHH 
HDHaHaBDBHHa 

DaaaaBDBDBaa 
DaaaBDBDBaaa 

nDaBDBODDBDD 
DDBDIinDDDDBT 

DBCBanDonaDB 
BDBaaaanaaaa 



DBDDDDnGCnnB 

saBDnnDnaDBD 

□ODBDDUDDBDffl 
OnDDBDDDBDBU 
DDDnDBaBOfflDD 

nnnnnaBDffinDLi 

nQDDDBDBDDDn 
DDDDBnfflDBDDD 

nnDBDffiDDDBna 

DOBDfflnDaDDBa 
DBGiBDDnDnODB 
BDfflaDDGDDDDI-l 

Fig. 6. 



BDBaBDDn 
DBDanBDB 
BBBDBDBD 
OBDBBBDB 
BDaDBaBD 
DBDBDBDn 
BDBDBBBa 
BBQBDBaB 



Fig. 7. 



Fig. 8. 



weave Fig. 1), thereby enclosing larg- 
er and smaller areas, alternately. 

Brighton weaves are made on the 
same number of ends as picks, this 
number being a multiple of 4, on 
from 8'x 8 upwards. Figs. 1, 7 and 8 
are the weaves generally used, the 
same being on 16 x 16, 12 x 12 and 
8x8 respectively. 

LOOM REQUIRED. 

Brighton cloth is woven on a single 
box dobby loom from one warp and 
one filling. It is usually woven white 
and piece dyed afterwards. 



GALATEA. 



Galatea cloth has been somewhat in 
demand the past two or three years by 
women requiring serviceable and neat- 
appearing cotton fabrics at a medium 
price. One selling house advertises it 
as being particularly suitable for chil- 
dren's dresses that have to be subject- 
ed to excessive wear, washing and 
ironing; also for women's outing suits, 
and shirtwaists. 

The demand appears to be increasing, 
probably partly due to the fact that 



330 



A COTTO'N FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



one or more firms are specializing on 
the fabric and are advertising it. 
GALATEA 
is usually finished 27 inches wide and 
retails at 14 to 20 cents per yard. It is 
shown in plain colors as well as in fig- 
ured, dotted and striped designs on 
white and colored grounds. The pat- 
terns are obtained by printing. Some 
manufacturers have evidently found 
that they can take a standard type of 
fabric and extend its use by varying 
the process of finishing it. The base 
of the cloth, i. e., the fabric previous to 
bleaching, dyeing or printing, is noth- 
ing more than an ordinary 5-end warp 
sateen of fair quality. 
A galatea in a 

SIMPLE STRIPE PATTERN 
is considered here, the analysis of 
which shows the following construc- 
tion data: Width of cloth, 27 inches; 
ends per inch, 124; picks per inch, 56; 
warp counts, 233, right twist; filling 
counts, 24s, right twist; weight, 3^ 
yards per pound; weave, 5-end warp 
satin. (Fig. 1.) 



OHH 


naanB 


■■■Da 


DBDOa 


■ DIH 


DDDBa 


■■■■D 


■ nDDD 


■■□■■ 


DDBDD 



Fig. 1. 



Fig-. 2. 



Each selvedge consists of 24 ends 
working as 12 and weaves 2 picks in a 
shed. The cloth has been reeded 5 
ends per dent in the body of the cloth 
and 6 ends per dent in the selvedges. 
CALCULATIONS. 

27 inches x 124 sley equals 3,348 ends, 
plus S extras for selvedges (there be- 
ing 1 end per dent more than in the 
ground) equals 3,356, total ends. 



ends per inch, and the fact that four 
out of every five ends are required to 
be on the face every pick, the cloth is 
woven face down in the loom and the 
harnesses actuated as shown in Fig. 2. 
The drawing-in draft is straight, with 
the ends drawn one through each hed- 
dle. 

FINISHING. 
The finishing of galatea is of simple 
character. It consists in bleaching, it 
for white, and printing, if for colored, 
patterns. A light starch, just enough 
to make the fabric handle firm, is used. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Galatea is made up of yarns the av- 
erage count of which is about 25s. 
For this article we will consider the 
warp to be 23s and the filling yarn 24s, 
both right twist. The cotton used for 
this fabric would be peeler cotton of 
a medium grade and l^-inch staple. 
If large quantities of this cloth are re- 
quired, the mixing should be done by 
machines. Any of the methods previous- 
ly described may be used,the object be- 
ing to have a dry, fluffy cotton fed to 
the openers. If only a small mixing is 
going to be used, the mixing may be 
done by hand, but when mixed in this 
manner 

THE MIXING 

should be allowed to stand longer be- 
fore using, so that it will become thor- 
oughly dry and not have to be fed 
green. When cotton is fed green to 
the pickers there is more likelihood of 
a fire at these machines. The cotton 
is next put through three processes of 
pickers and an opener. At the breaker 
picker there are generally two sets of 



3,356 (ends) x 105 (length) 



23 (counts) X 840 
30 (width in reed) x 56 (pks.) x 100 (length) 
24 (counts) X 840 



= 18.24 lbs. warp In 100 yards of cloth. 



= 8.33 lbs. filling. 



18.24 lbs. warp. 
8.33 lbs. filling. 

26.57 lbs., weight of 100 yard ce 
100 divided by 26.57 = 3.76 yards per pound. 

When weighing a small sample of 
the cloth under consideration 5% 
Bquare inches was found to weigh 10.7 
grains. 

6% (sq. Inches) x 7,000 (grs.) 
10.7 (weight) X 27 In. (cloth width) x 36 (inchet per yard) 
LOOM REQUIRED. 
Galatea can be produced most eco- 
nomically on single box cam looms in 
which an auxiliary motion is used for 
.actuating the selvedge yarns. 

On account of the large number of 



cages and two beaters. The first beater 
that the cotton comes in contact with 
has three blades and its speed is 1,100 
revolutions per minute. The front 

= 3.78 yards per pound. 



beater of this machine has two blades 
and its speed is 1,425 revolutions per 
minute. The total 

WEIGHT OF THE LAP 
at this machine is about 40 pounds, al- 
though in a great many mills the laps 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



S31 



at the front of the breaker and inter- 
mediate pickers are allowed to become 
as large as can be handled before doff- 
ing them. The weight per yard is 16 
ounces. The laps from the breaker 
are put up and doubled four into one at 
the intermediate. The beater on this 
machine is generally of a 2-bladed type 
and the speed of it 1,400 revolutions 
per minute. The total weight of a 40- 
yard lap is 37% pounds, or a 15-ounce 
lap. At the finisher picker the beater 
may be either the pin or the 2-bladed 
rigid type. If the former, the speed 
should be about 1,350 revolutions per 
minute, and for the rigid type 1,450. 
It will be at once seen that a greater 
number of blows will be struck with 
the pin beater, but it is claimed that 
the pins of this beater enter the cotton 
and do not strike it as forcibly as the 
blade of a rigid type beater. On the 
other hand, many carders object to the 
pin beater, especially on the longer-sta- 
ple cotton, claiming that it 

PUTS IN NEPS. 

For this fabric the total weight of a 40- 
yard lap should be 36^ pounds. A va- 
riation of one-half either side of stand- 
ard should be allowed and every lap 
weighed. Look out for split laps and 
see that every part of the picker is 
working freely, that the evener mo- 
tions are in perfect order, for remem- 
ber, it is on this arrangement that the 
evenness of the lap depends. At the 
card the draft should not be over 105. 
The speed of the licker-in is 375 revo- 
lutions per minute. Flats (110) make 
one complete revolution every 45 min- 
utes. Use medium count wire fillet. 
Strip, grind, clean, etc., as given in 
previous articles. The production for 
this fabric should be 775 pounds per 
week of 60 hours and the weight per 
yard of sliver should be 60. This is 
then put through three processes of 
drawing frames. For this class of goods 

METALLIC ROLLS 
may be used to good advantage. For 
this length of staple with metallic top 
rolls spread the bottom steel rolls as 
follows: Front Lo second 1 5-16 inches; 
second to third, 1 7-16 inches; third to 
back, 1 9-16 inches. If leather top 
rolls are used instead, close rolls a 
good sixteenth. The speed of the front 
roll may be anything up to 400 revolu- 
tions per minute, according to the 
amount of drawing needed. As has 
been said many times before, as this 
is really the last machine at which 
evening takes place (to any great ex- 
tent), watch to see that the stop-mo- 
tions are working properly. Also watch 
the clearers and see that the sliver is 



being coiled properly in the can, be- 
cause nothing causes more waste and 
trouble than poorly coiled sliver in 
cans. Size four times a day and allow 
a variation of two grains per yard (av- 
erage) before changing. Scour draw- 
ings frequently. The weight per yard 
of sliver at the finisher drawmg is 75 
grains per yard. The doublings are 6 
into 1. At the slubber the drawing is 
made into .45 hank roving, after which 
it is put through two processes of 

FLY FRAMES 

and made into the following hank rov- 
ing at each: first intermediate, 1.65; 
fine, 5 hank. This is taken to the spin- 
ning frame and for the warp is spun in- 
to 23s, with a right-handed twist. Other- 
wise than being twisted right-handed, 
the particulars are as follows: 2-inch 
diameter ring, 7-inch traverse, 9,500 
revolutions per minute spindle speed 
and a twist per inch of 22.7 + . The 
yarn is then spooled, warped and put 
through the slasher. 

The filling yarn for this fabric is 
also a right twist, otherwise the partic- 
ulars for the frame are as follows: IVz- 
inch diameter ring, 6i/^-inch trav- 
erse, spindle speed 7,600 revolutions 
per minute. The yarn is then condi- 
tioned. 



Dyeing Particulars. 
Following are dyeing particulars for 
100 pounds of goods. 

PINK. 

Four ounces Erica pink G; 10 
pounds Glauber's; 1 pound sal soda. 

LIGHT BLUE. 

Six ounces diamine sky blue F F; 
10 pounds Glauber's; 1 pound sal soda. 

CREAM. 

Four ounces immedial yellow D; 2 
ounces immedial cutch G; 1 pound 
sulphide sodium; 2 pounds soda ash; 
10 pounds salt. 

NAVY. 

Ten pounds immedial indone B; 10 
poimds sulphide sodium; 3 pounds 
soda ash; 30 pounds salt. 

WINE. 

Six pounds brilliant Bordeaux R; 2 
pounds sal soda; 30 pounds Glauber's. 

TAN. 

One pound immedial cutch B; 1 
pound immedial yellow D; 3 pounds 
sulphide sodium; 30 pounds salt; 3 

pounds soda ash. 






A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



VELODR, 



Velour is a type of filling pile fabric, 
of fair to good quality, made on the 
weave principles explained in the ar- 
ticle dealing with velveteens. It dif- 
fers from velveteen in having pile fill- 
ing of some material other than cotton. 

Velour for dress and cloaking pur- 
posies is made with 2 or 3 ply cotton 
yarns for the warp and filling of the 
ground cloth, and mdhair or lustre 
worsited filling for the pile. The cloth 
widths range from about 27 inches to 
54 inches. The weights and qualities 
also vary, as will be inferred from a re- 
cent retail price list for 32-inch goods. 
These prices range from $2 to $4 per 
yard. 

The better qualities of dress velours 
are usually from 27 inches to 32 inch- 
es wide. 

Large quantities of velour fabrics are 
also used for curtain and upholstery 
purposes, the points of the fibres re- 
ceiving and reflecting the light and in- 
dicating full, deep' colors. The pecul- 
iar manner in which the cloth is con- 
structed makes it an excellent wearing 
fabric. In jute velours, which are used 
for upholstery purposes to a greater 
extent than animal fibre pile velours, 
the pile yarn is nf jute. 

In dress fabrics, velours are usually 
of solid color. For upholstery pur- 
poses they are of solid or various col- 
ors and patterns, the result of print- 
ing, embossing, cutting or burning. 

The word velour, or velure, is also 
given to a pad of pile fabric used by 
hatters for smoothing and giving a 
lustre to the surface of hats. 

THE ANALYSIS 
of a characteristic velour fabric, 50 
inches wide, retailing for $2.25 per yard, 
indicates the following construction 
data: Ends per inch, 68; picks, per 

68 (ends) x 50 (width) = 3,400 ends. 
3,400 X 105 (length) 



42.5 lbs. warp. 



10 (counts) X 840 
45 (picks) X 55 in. (width in reed) x 100 (length) 



inch, 225, including 45 ground picks and 
180 pile picks; v/arp counts, 2-ply 20s 
cotton; ground filling counts, 3-ply 153 
cntton; pile filling ccunts, 25s worsted; 
weight, 21.13 ounces per yard; weave. 
Fig. 1. The picks are arranged 2 
ground to 8 pile. 

When analyzing pile fabrics care 
must be taken not to omit to consider 
the structure of the cloth. If analyzed 
as an ordinary fabric the weave for the 
fabric under consideration would ap- 
peal as shown in Fig. 2, and there 
woulc^ appear to be an equal number of 



nfflBBffiDDDffifflfflDG 
EnDDEBHfflDDDSS 

■■DDODDDDDaa 

■■DDDDnnaann 

DDDDDCBHDQDD 
DDnDDDMHDDDD 
DaDBHDDCDDna 

nnaunananaaa 

DDDGnDDDDHBa 
DDDaDDDDDHHn 



Fig. 1. 



EBDDDBfflfflDDDfflffl 
■■aBBDBHDBBD 

BBaBBaBBaaBD 
Fig'. 2. 



15 X 840 
21.13 ozs. (weight per yard) x ICO (length) 



IDDDDDnDBBDDDDDDD 
BBnDDDDDDBBDDDDDDD 

nnnnDDBBDDcnnDDBBa 

DDDDDDBBnDDDDDDBBD 
DDDBBDnDDaDDBBDaOD 
DDDBBDDDCnDDBBCnaa 

Fig. 3. 

ground as pile picks. Fig. 3 shows a 
wea\'e that could be used if the pile was 
roquirer"; to be shorter .Tnd less dense 
than with Fig. 1. Crosses in Figs. 1 
to 3 indicate ground picks; b indi- 
cate pile picks. 

Another point to consider is the 
method of ascertaining the counts of 
the 

PILE FILLING. 
Obviously a definite length cannot be 
measure(i with any degree of accuracy 
after it has been cut into very small 
pieces. Knowing the construction and 
weight of the fabric, and the counts 
of the ground yarns, the pile yarn 
counts may be found as follows: 



19.64 lbs. of ground filling. 



16 (ozs. per pound) 

42.5 lbs. warp. 

19.64 lbs. ground filling. 

62.14 lbs. ground yarn. 
132.06 — 62.14 = 69.92 lbs. pile filling. 

180 (picks) X 55 in. (width in reed) x 100 (length) 

69 92 (lbs.) X 560 



132.06 lbs. weight of 10« yard cut. 



counts of pile filling. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



333 



DOOM REQUIRED. 

Vielours require a two-box dobby 
loom of heavy pattern, with a special 
take-up motion on account of the large 
number of picks per inch. One beam 
only is required. 

FINISHING. 

The finishing process consists of cut- 
ting, singeing or gassing, scouring, 
bleaching (if for white), dyeing and 
drying. Upholstery goods are printed 
after being dried, usually by the dis- 
charge process. Embossed effects are 
almost entirely confined to solid col- 
or fabrics and are obtained by pres- 
sure under suitable heated and pre- 
pared rollers. 

For other data regarding filling pile 
fabrics the reader is referred to the 
articloo on "Valveteen" and "Velve- 
teen Cutting." 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Velour is made out of two different 
lengths of staple of American peeler 
cotton and a worsted j^arn. The counts 
of yarn used in the sample under de- 
scription are as follows: Warp counts, 
2-ply 20s, which is made from 1 1-16- 
inch stock, and for ground filling 
counts 3-45s, which is made' out of 
1 .5-16-inch stock, and for pile filling, 
25s v/orsted yarns, which is equal to a 
16 2-3s (single) cotton yarn. The cot- 
tons for both lengths of staple are sta- 
pled in the usual manner and in large 
mills are mixed by machines, while in 
small mills, or mills using a small 
quantity of these lengths of staples, the 
mixing is done by hand. For both 
stocks the 

PICKING PARTICULARS 
are practically the same and one meth- 
od will answer for both. They are put 
through three processes of pickers and 
an opener, the breaker picker, being 
known as a combination picker, having 
two sets of cages and two beaters; the 
first, or that beater coming into con- 
tact with the cotton first, has three 
blades and revolves at a speed of 1,- 
125 revolutions per minute, while the 
front beater is generally two-bladed, 
having a speed of 3,500 revolutions per 
minute. The total weigh", of a lap 
is 40 pounds or a 16^ounce lap These 
laps are put up at the intermediate 
picker, and doubled four into one. At 
this picker the beater is of a rigid, 
two-bladed type and its speed is 1,425 
revolutions per minute The total 
weight of a 42-yard lap is SS^/^ pounds, 
or a 1414-ounce lap. At the finisher pick- 
er, the speed of a three-bladed pin 
beater is 1,400 revolutions per minute, 
and of a two-bladed rigid beater 1,450 



revolutions per minute. The total 
weight of a 50-yard lap is 46 pounds 
net for the 1 1-16-inch stock ot a 14%- 
ounce lap and 39 pounds net or a 12i^- 
ounce lap for the 1 5-16-inch stock. 

AT THE CARD 
there are several minor changes from 
on© stock to the other, the principal 
ones being as follows: The distance 
from feed plate to licker-in should be 
increased so as not_to injure or break 
the longer staple. For the shorter 
stock the draft should be not more 
than 100. Set feed plate to licker-in 
to 7-1, 000th gauge; fiats to cylinder, 
7-l,000ths; doffer to cylinder,7-l,000ths; 
doffer comb to doffer, with a 10-l,000ths 
gauge,the other settings being the same 
as those used for indigo prints. For the 
longer stock set feed plate to licker-in 
17-l,000th&; flats to cylinder, 7-l,000ths; 
doffer to cylinder, 5-l,000ths, etc. The 
draft for this length of staple should 
not be less than 100 and 110 of a draft 
is better. The percentage of all waste 
at the card for 1 1-16-inch stock should 
not exceed 7^4 per cent and for 1 5-16- 
inch staple 8% per cent. Strip, grind 
and clean as shown formerly when the 
same lengths of staple were being de- 
scribed. The weight per yard for 
1 1-16-inch staple should be 60 grains 
per yard and for the 1 5-16-ii.'.ch stock, 
55 grains per yard. The 

PRODUCTION 

for a week of 60 hours should be as fol- 
lows: 1 l-164nch staple, 750 pounds 
andj. 5-16-inch staple, 550 pounds. The 
1 5-16-inch stock is combed (although 
for all grades of velour the yarn is not 
combed). The general method follow- 
ed is as follows: Sliver lap 16 into 1 or 
an 8%-inch lap; weight of finished lap 
per yard, 420 grains. The sliver 
laps are doubled 6 into 1 or to a 
lOi/^-inch lap, the weight being 440 
grains per yard. These laps, in turn, 
are put up at the comber and doubled 
eight into one, the weight of the fin- 
ished sliver being 65 grains per yard. 
Set the comber as before described for 
this length of staple. For this class of 
goods 16 per cent of waste is taken out. 
Use one of the receipts for varnish 
that have been given from time to 
time, and keep all leather rolls in good 
condition, no matter whether they are 
on sliver lap, ribbon lap, combers, 
drawing frames or slubbers and speed- 
ers. The sliver from the comber is put 
through 

TWO PROCESSES OF DRAWING, 
the doubling 6 into 1 at each process. 
The speed of the front roll depends 
upon conditions, but a fair speed is 350 
revolutions per minute. The weight 



334 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



per yard of finisiied sliver is 75 grains. 
The 1 1-16-incli stock is pmt. through 
three processes of drawing, the weight 
of the sliver being 75 grains per yard. 
Size at the ribbon lap twice a day, an 
allowance of five grajins per yard be- 
ing allowed from standard before 
changing. At the drawing frame size 
four times a day, a variation of two 
grains per yard being allowed. The 
drawing frame should be set for 1 5-16 
inch stock, front to second, 1 7-16 
inch; second to third, 1 9-16 inch and 
third to back, 1%-inich for leather top 
rolls; for metallic rolls, spread rollers 
% to 1/4 of an inch farther apart. 

AT THE SLUBBER 

the drawing is made in .60 for both 
stocks, after which the slubber roving 
is put through two piix>cesses of speed- 
ers for 20s yam, the hank roving at 
each process being 1.50 at first, and 4 
at second. This is spun into 20s on a 
frame with a two-inch diameter ring; 
7-inch traverse; 21.24 twist per inch, 
and spindle speed of 9,400 revolutions 
per minute, after which the yarn is 
spooled and twisted into 2-20s and then 
warped and put through a slasher. The 
slubber roving for 45s is put through 
two processes, the hank roving at each 
being 2.50 at first and 10 hank at the 
fine. This roving is spun into 45s on a 
frame with li/4-inch diameter ring; 5i/^- 
inch traverse; 25 -f twist per inch 
and a spindle speed of 8,500 revolu- 
tions per minute. The yarn is tlien 
twisted into 3-45s yarn and condition- 
ed. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

WINE. 

6 per cent brilliant diamine Bor- 
deaux R; 3 per cent sal soda; 30 per 
cent Glauber's; topped with 1 per cent 
saffranine. 

NAVY BLUE. 

8 per cent immedial indogene B; 8 
per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent salt; topped 
with 1 per cent brilliant green G; 1 
per cent methyl violet B. 

OLIVE. 

6 per cent katigen olive G N; 2 per 
cent katigen green 2 B; 1 per cent kat- 
igen brown B; topped with 1 per cent 
auramine; 1 per cent brilliant green 
crys. 

BROWN. 

6 per cent immedial cutch G; 2 per 
cent immedial yellow D; 1 per cent 
immedial brown B; 10 per cent sul- 



phide of soda; 3 per cent soda ash; 
30 per cent salt; topped with 2 per 
cent auramine; 2 per cent Bismarck 
brown. 

SLATE. 

3 per cent immedial black N N; 4 
per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent salt; topped 
with 4 ounces methyl violet B; 1 
ounce brilliant green B. 

GRAY. 

1 per cent immedial black N N; 2 
ounces immedial yellow D; topped 
with 2 ounces brilliant green B; 2 
ounces methyl violet B. 

FAWN BROWN. 

4 per cent immedial brown B; 2 per 
cent immedial brown R R; 6 per cent 
sulphide soda; 3 per cent soda ash; 
30 per cent salt; topped with 2 per 
cent Bismarck brown R. 

BOTTLE GREEN. 

6 per cent immedial green B B; 2 
per cent immedial dark green B; 8 per 
cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent 
soda ash; 30 per cent salt; topped 
with 1 per cent brilliant green B. 

PEACOCK GREEN. 

4 per cent immedial new blue G; 4 
per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent 
soda ash; 25 per cent salt; topped 
with 2 per cent brilliant green B. 

All these shades are dyed with the 
sulpliur coiors, well rinsed with water 
and dyed again at 180 degrees F., and 
well rinsed in water again and dried. 

BLACK. 

10 per cent immedial brilliant black 
G; 10 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per 
cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt; top- 
ped with 4 per cent immedial indone 
B; 4 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per 
cent soda ash.; 20 per cent salt 
Rinsed and soaped. 



GLORIA SILK or GLORIA CLOTH. 

Gloria silk or gjoria cloth is a name 
applied to a fabric used extensively for 
umbrellas. This fabric is made up of 
fine organzine silk warp, and either 
cotton, worsted or mohair filling. 

The finest grades of this fabric are 
made with a fine organzine silk warp 
and fine French spun Australian 
worsted filling of a very high texture, 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



335 



both warp and filling, "while in the 
cheaper grades cotton is substituted 
for worsted. 

The fabric made with silk and worst- 
ed is oftentimes used as a dress fab- 
ric, with a slight change in texture; 
the counts of the materials may be a 
little finer and the ends and picks per 
inch are less than in the umbrella fab- 
ric;?. 

The fabric used as dress goods is 
commonly known to the trade as lans- 
down. This fabric, by reason of the 
texture, is softer to the touch than 
the gloria cloth. 

Both fabrics are made in the gray, 
then dyed in the piece. The fabric 
used for umbrellas is usually dyed 
black and the fabric intended for a 
dress is dyed in various shades of solid 
•cojors, isuch as lavender, pink, blue, 
sometimes finished in pure white or 
bleached and sometimes the goods are 
dyed black, if the trade de^sires it. 

A distinguishing feature of these 
fabrics in conjunction with the mate- 
rials used is the weave, whiich is a 

three-end twill, — j, and is woven in a 
widt^ of about 45 inches in reed. 
In the best grades of the umibrella 



mammam 
ammamm 
mmamma 
mamuam 

Fig. 1. 

OaDDDB 
DDDQBD 

aaamaD 

DnBDDD 
DBDDDn 

mnanaa 
Fig. 2. 

fabric the construction is of such a 
high texture that the fabric need not 
be waterproofed as are some .fabrics 
used as a protection against the ele- 
iLents, as, for instance, raincloth.which 
is rainproofed during the finishing 
process. The texture of the gloria 
cloth is sufficiently compact to be im- 
pervaous to the rain. 

ANALYSIS 

follows of fabrics used for umbrellas 
and also fabrics used for dress goods. 

First, Gloria cloth: width of warp, 
in reed, 45 inches; width of fabric fin- 
ished, 40-41 inches; ends per inch in 
reed, 55x3, equals 165; ends per inch 
finished fabric, ISO; warp, V^ dram 
organzine silk. 

Take-up during weaving, 8 per cent. 

Practically no shrinkage in cloth in 
length during finishing. 

Filling, 160 picks per inch; l-70s 
French spun Australian worsted. 



Second: Lansdowne: width in reed, 
45 inches; width of fabric finished, 
40-41; ends per inch in reed, 150 — 50x3 
reed; ends per inch in finished fabric, 
168; warp, 1% dram organzine silk. 

Filling, 150 picks; l-90s French spun 
Australian worsted. 

These fabrics are woven on harness 
looms; the warp is drawn straight on 
six harnesses, through French string 
heddles. This particular heddle is al- 
most indispensable in silk v/eaving. 

Fig. 1, two repeats of weave. 

Fig. 2, drawing-in draft. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Gloria cloth is made up from many 
different raw stocks and may be either 
composed of worsted, silk, mohair or 
cotton yarns or a combination of any 
two. Gloria is sometimes called um- 
brella cloth on account of its extensive 
use for covering this article, snd when 
used for this purpose it is generally 
constructed from cotton yarns. The 
counts of the yarn used vary from 40s 
to 60s, but a good average would be 45s 
for both warp and filling. The raw 
stock used for the better cloth is Egyp- 
tian cotton of 1%-inch staple, but it 
is the general mile nowadays to mix 
Allen 1%-inch staple cotton with the 
Egyptian, so as to cheapen the cloth, 
the proportion of American cotton 
used varying from one-sixth to one- 
half, the blending being generally done 
at the breaker drawing frame. The 
cottons should be mixed and up to 
the drawing frame run separately. 
They should be mixed in the usual 
manner; if a bale breaker is used bet- 
ter results will be obtained and the 
mixings will not have to stand as long 
to dry out as when hand mixings are 
made. The cotton is put through an 
opener and three processes of pickers. 
On the opener the stripping roll should 
be set about one-half an inch from the 
lifting roll and 

THE HOPPER 

should always be kept three-quarters 
full of cotton. The processes of pick- 
ers used may be three, as stated before, 
or two, the breaker being what is 
known as a combination picker, that is, 
having two beaters and two sets of 
cages. For various reasons the latter 
method is considered the better of the 
two. In this article we will consider 
the processes to be three separate pick- 
ers, although the speeds of the beaters 
given may be used if two processes of 
pickers are used. The speed of the 
breaker beater is 1 .350 for a two-bladed 
beater and 900 revolutions per minute 
for a three-bladcd beater. The total 



336 



A COTTON FABRIOS GLOSSARY. 



weight of a lap at the front would be 
about 40 pounds, or a 16-ounce lap. 
These are doubled 5 into 1 at the inter- 
mediate picker. The speed of the 
beater of this packer is 1,300 revolu- 
tions per minuto. The total weight of 
a lap at this machine is 37i/^ pounds,or 
a 15%-ounce lap. These laps are put 
up at the finisher picker and doubled 4 
into I. The speed of this beater is 1,200 
revolutions per minute, and the weight 
of a lap is SlVz pounds, or a 12i^-ounce 
lap. 

THE SPEEDS 

of the beater given above are for the 
Egyptian stock. I'he Allen seed would 
require a higher speed of the beater 
to get the dirt out, the Increase be- 
ing about 100 revolutions per minute 
at each process. Every lap should be 
weighed as it is taken from the finisher 
picker, a variation of one-halC a pound 
from the standard weight being al- 
lowed. The laps are then put up at 
the card and given a draft of 110. The 
speed of the flats is one complete revo- 
lution every 40 minutes; set and grind 
as usual. The production should be 
about 500 pounds a week of 60 hours, 
the weight of the sliver being 50 grains 
per yard. Strip cards three times a 
day for a 10%-hour day. The card sliv- 
er is next put through a sliver lap ma- 
chine, the doublings for an S%-inch 
lap being 16 into 1. The weight of a 
yard of this lap at the front is 280 
grains. These are put up at the rib- 
bon lap machine and doubled 6 into 1. 
The weight of a yard of lap at the front 
of this machine is 275 grains per yard. 
The spread of the rolls at the ribbon 
lap for this staple is, front to second, 
1% inches; second to third, l';4 -inches; 
third to back, 1% inches. These laps 
are put up at the comber and doubled 
either 6 or S into 1, according to the 
number of heads the comber contains. 
For this article we will assume 6. The 
speed is 90 nips per minute, the 
weight of sliver delivered being 40 
grains per yard. The percentage of 
waste taken out is 16. If larger laps 
than S% inches are used the weight of 
the lap, etc., will be proportionately 
heavier. Set and time as given in a 
previous article. At the drawing frame 
the doubling at each of the two proc- 
esses used is 6 into 1. It is at this ma- 
chine that the blending is done, three 
ends of American cotton being run in 
with three ends of Egyptian. 

THE WEIGHT 

of the drawing at the front should be 
50 grains per yard. The rolls should 
be set as follows: front to second, 1% 
inches; second to third, 1% inches,and 



third to back, 1% inches. Size four 
times a day and allow a variation of 
two grains per yard either side of 
standard before changing. Varnish 
and change leather top rolls frequently. 
At the slubber the silver is made into 
.70 hank roving and is then put through 
three processes of fly frames, the hank 
roving at each process being as fol- 
lows: First intermediate, 1.40 hank; 
second intermediate, 3.40 hank, and 
fine frame, 9.40 hank. The twist per 
inch put into the roving is very im- 
portant and for making these yarns 
the following twists are used at the 
slubber: 73 turns per inch; first inter- 
mediate, 1.01 per inch; second interme- 
diate, 1.85 per inch, and fine, 3.7 per 
inch. Lay close and size fine frames 
once a day, and slubbers once a week, 

BETTER RESULTS 

are obtained if either self-weighted 
rolls are used on the fine frames or if 
not using self-weighted rolls take 
weight off of second roll and take one 
tooth of draft out between second and 
third rolls. Watch the leather rolls 
to see that they are in perfect condi- 
tion. The yarn is taken to the mule 
room and spun with a soft twist for 
both warp and filling; the warp yarn 
is then run on to spools, after which it 
is warped and slashed and is then 
ready for the beam. Particular care 
has to be taken with this fabric to 
keep it free from neps on account of 
their showing up so plainly when made 
up on the umbrella, and it is a good 
plan to watch the beaters, flats and 
settings at the card, percentage and 
settings at the comber. 



Dyeing Particulars. 

Gloria cloth is made for the umbrel- 
la trade. When composed of silk and 
wool it is dyed by special colors, made 
by such firms as the Cassella Color 
Co., Continental Co. and others, the 
colors dyeing wool and silk in one bath. 
For cheap imitation gloria cloths of 
cotton and wool, a union black is dy- 
ed: 5 per cent union black B, 20 
per cent Glauber's salt. Boil forty 
minutes, and run without steam for 
forty minutes longer. 

For 

ALL COTTON CHEAP GLORIAS, 

which are not glorias at all, as the 
only real gloria cloth is made from 
silk and wool, the aniline salt black 
is dyed; the goods are passed through 
a solution of aniline salt, dyed and 
aged and developed and washed. 



A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 



337 



CANVAS. 



Canvas is a term applied to heavy, 
plain weave cloths made with ooarse, 
ply cotton yarns. It does not refer 
to any particular grade or weight of 
cloth. 

Canvas cloth is used for mail bags, 
coverings for boats, in the manufac- 
ture of tents, etc. The 
ANALYSIS 
of a heavy characteristic canvas fab- 
ric indicates the following construc- 
tion data: ends per inch, 31; picks 
per inch, 24; warp counts, 6-14s; filling 
counts, 9-14s; cloth width, 24 inches; 
reed width, 2514 inches; weight, .72 
(72-100) yard per pound; plain weave. 
A characteristic feature of heavy, plain 
cotton fabrics is seen in this cloth In 
that the warp has contracted in length 
about 25 per cent. Goods of this char- 
acter would be woven on heavy cam 
looms of the type used for weaving 
duck. 

Fig. 1 is a weave of the mock leno 
type, sometimes termed a canvas 
weave. Cloth made with this weave 

DDaamaum 
anaammmm 

>amuauaam 

■■■■DDDD 
■■■■DDDO 

>-D»an»nnB ^xm 

. A AA A 

Fig. 1. 

is characterized by small perforations, 
caused by some of the ends and picks, 
indicated by the arrows, cutting or op- 
posing each other, while other ends 
and picks in the same weave come 
closely together. This cloth is used 
as a base or ground for embroidery 
work, and the perforations noted have 
a distinctive value as an aid in indicai - 
ing readily where to insert the needle. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Canvas is made up in a great many 
grades, but usually the counts of the 
yarns do not vary as much for the dif- 
ferent grades as for different grades of 
finer fabrics. The sample of canvas 
taken for description is made up of 
6-].4s warp and 9-14s filling. This count 
of yarn (considering the fabric) would 
be made up of from 15-16 to 1 1-16 inch 
staple, of a medium grade, and for 
this grade of fabric the cotton would 
not be combed. If large mixings are 



required, i. e., over 60 bales a day, a 
bale breaker should be used or some 
arrangement made whereby the mixing 
can be done by machines; if a smaller 
amount of cotton is required, then a 
hand mixing will answer. It will be 
found a great advantage to use ma- 
chinery for mixing; any of the up-to- 
date machines and systems are all 
right. The cotton is next put through 
an opener and three processes of pick- 
ers. The pin roll, or, as it is sometimes 
called, the evener roll, should be set 
about one-half an inch from the lift- 
ing apron. The breaker picker is what 
is known as a combination picker,hav- 
ing two sets of beaters and two sets of 
cages. 

THE BEATER 
that first receives the cotton is general- 
ly of a three-bladed type and its speed 
is 1,400 revolutions per minute. The 
front beater of this same machine has 
two blades, and its speed is 1,450 rev- 
olutions per minute. The total weight 
of a lap at the front end of this ma- 
chine is 40 to 50 pounds, according to 
length of lap run. Some overseers do 
not have a full lap knock-off on either 
the breaker or the intermediate picker, 
but the attendant doffs this lap at will. 
These breaker laps are doubled four 
into one at the intermediate picker. 
This picker is equipped with an even- 
er motion and has a two-bladed beater, 
the speed of which is 1,400 revolutions 
per minute. The weight of a full lap 
is about 40 pounds, but generally this 
picker has no full lap knock-off, so 
the laps would weigh more or less 
for a full lap, but just the same per 
yard. Four of these laps should be dou- 
bled into one at the finisher picker. 
This is equipped with a pin beater, the 
speed of which is 1,400 revolutions per 
minute. The total weiglht of a 46-yard 
lap is 48% pounds gross, or 46 pounds 
net, or a 12-OTince lap. Every lap 
should be weighed on this kind of 
stock, for it is generally a very sensi- 
tive cotton to weather conditions. 
Watch the evener motions to see that 
they are working properly and are 
clean. Run good sliver waste up in the 
usual manner. At the cards the draft 
should not exceed 100 and the flats 
should make one complete revolution 
every 40 minutes; set and grind as in- 
structions in article on indigo prints. 
Strip out every three hours or three 
times (both cylinder and doffer) a day 
for a 10%-hour day. If humidifiers are 
run, 

THE HUMIDITY 
should be about 55 degrees. The pro- 
duction of a card for a week of 60 hours 
should be 650 to 750 pounds, the 



338 



A COTTON FABRIOS GLOSSARY. 



weight of the sliver being 55 grains 
per yard. The card sliver is next run 
through either two or three processes 
of drawing as required for the quality 
of the canvas. In the sample three 
processes are used, six ends up at each 
process. The spread of the rolls for 
1-inch stock with leather top rolls is 
as follows: front to second, 1% inches; 
second to third, 1 3-16 inches; third to 
back, 1% inches. For metallic 
top rolls spread of rolls % inch 
wider all through. Watch all 
stop-motions on this machine, 
for practically the last doubling 
is done at this machine, so that it is 
very important to see that the stop- 
motions are in good order. Varnish 
rolls as often as possible, and see that 
clearers are proiperly placed and pick- 
ed. The sliver should be sized four 
times a day and should weigh 75 
grains per yard. If humidifiers are 
used over these machines, they should 
give a mean temperature of 60 to 65 de- 
grees. The drawing sliver is run 
through the slubber, and made into 
40 hank roving. The settings for rolls 
at this machine are as follows: front 
to second, 1 1-16 inches, and second to 
back, 11/4 inches. Clean steel rolls of 
all laps, etc. The slubber roving is 
then put through two processes of fly 
frames, at the first intermediate being 
made into 1 bank roving and at the sec- 
ond, 3 hank roving. The roving on 
the finer frame should be sized once a 
day, the roll settings used for both 
oeing front to second, 1-16 inches and 
second to back, 1^/4 inches; the doub- 
lings at each being 2 into 1. 

AT THE SPINNING ROOM 
the roving is spun into 14s on a warp 
frame with a 3-inch gauge of frame, 7- 
inch traverse, 2%-inch diameter ring, 



17.77 twist per inch and a spindle speed 
of 9,000 revolutions per minute. This 
is then doubled into 6-14s or 6-ply 143, 
after which it is put through a slasher 
and run on a beam. 

The 14s filling yarn is made on a IV^- 
inch diameter ring, 6i/^-inch traverse, 
a 12.16 twist per inch and a spindle 
speed of 6,800 revolutions per minute. 
This yarn is then twisted into 9-ply 14s 
or 9-14s, after which it is conditioned, 
when it is ready to be woven. 



BACK-CLOTH, 



Back-cloth is a reinforcing clotli 
used in calico printing to support a 
fabric being printed. Any plain cloth 
of suitable width may be used as a 
back-cloth, therefore the term does 
not refer to any particular width, 
weight or quality of fabric. 

The back-cloth passes through thft 
printing machine between the ma- 
chine and the cloth to be printed. 
Both cloths, the back and the printed, 
emerge from the printing machine to- 
gether. The back-cloth is immediate- 
ly folded, whereas the printed cloth 
goes through other machines to "set" 
the color. The color on the back 
cloth, not being "set," is easily washed 
out. In a public cloth finishing es- 
tablishment, the back-cloth is usually 
bleached, after serving its purpose at 
the printing machine, and finished as 
required. The back-cloth is usually 
wider than the cloth it is intended to 
support, and the color touches it only 
lightly on the outer portions. 



K^ptnhix, 



CRASH. 



Carding and Spinni'ng Particulars. 

Crash, is generally composed of 
yarns varying from 14s to 209, botli 
warp and filling having the same 
count of yarn. This class of fabric is 
made from cotton whose staple varies 
from Ys to 1 1-16 inches. For this article 
we will consider the counts of the yarn 
to be 16s and the staple of the cotton 
1 1-16 inches in length. If large lots 
of this class of goods are to be han- 
dled/ say over 35,000 pounds per week, 
preparing machines Khould be used, 
which are nothing more or ICE'S tlian 
several (from 3 to 7, according to 
capacity of mill) hoppers or openers 
in a row delivering the cotton on to 
an endle&s apron which carries it to 
and drops it into a line of trunking. 

The cotton is conveyed to the mixing 
bins through this trunking, the motive 
power being powerful fansi This a;l- 
lows the cotton, when it reaches the 
bins, to be in a fluffy dry state. Ttiis 
cotton is next fed to the openers and 
Is passed through three processes of 
picking. At the 

BREAKER PICKER 
the cotton passes through, first a 3- 
bladed rigid type of beater, which has a 
speed of 1,100 revolutions per minute, 
and then a 2-bladed beater, the speed 
of which is 1,375 revolutions per min- 
ute. TTie total weight of a lap is iO 
pounds, or a 16-ounce lap. At the in- 
termediate picker the speed of the 2- 
bladed beater is 1,300 revolutions per 
minute, and the weight of the lap is 38 
pounds, or a 13-.ounce lap. At the fin- 
isher picker there is a pin beater (three 
arms) the speed of which is 1,350 revo- 
lutions per minute. Tlie total weight 
of a 52-yard lap is 46 pounds net, or a 
14%-ounce lap. Allow one-half pound 
variation either side of standard 
weight. At the card, set the same as 
for indigo prints. The top flats sibould 
make one complete revolution every 45 
minutes. The sliver should weigh 60 
grains per yard, and the production 
should be 775 to 825 pounds per weeik 
of sixty hours. Watch the set- 
ting points to see that all cards 
are set as nearly as possible 
alike. Strip three times a day and 
watoh help to see that they strip ev- 
ery card. Grind as before stated. The 



sliver is next put through three proc- 
esses of drawing frames. The speed of 
the front roll at the finisher for this 
stock should be 350 to 400 revolutions 
per minute, and the weight per yard of 
lap 75 grains. Watoh the knock-off 
motions to see that they are all in 
proper working condition. For this 
class of work metallic top rolls may be 
used to excellent advantage. Size four 
times a day. 

THE DRAWING SLIVER 
is put through the slubber and made 
into .46 hank roving and from here 
put through two processes of fly frames, 
at the first intermediate being made 
into l.IO hank, and at the second in- 
termediate, or in this case the fine 
frame, 3.25 hank. Keep the top rolls 
in good condition and the bottom steel 
rolls set properly. This roving is tak- 
en to the spinning frame and spun 
into 16s warp yarn on a frame with 
2% -inch gauge of frame, 2-inoh diam- 
eter ring, 7-inch, traverse and spindle 
speed of 9,400 revolutiomsi per minuta 
Twist per inch, 19. This' yarn is then 
spooled, warped and put through the 
slasher, where it is heavily sized. 

The 3-hank roving for the filling 
yarn is spun into 16s filling on a frame 
with 1%-inch diameter ring, 6i^-inCh 
traverse, 13 twist per inch and spindle 
speed of 7,000 revolution© per minute. 
After leaving the spinning frame, the 
yam is conditioned. 



HAMMOCK CLOTHS. 

Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Hammock cloth is generally made in 
mills making low counts of yarn, or in 
mills or small plants which mafee a 
specialty of this one grade of goods. 
The counts as well as the staple of 
the cotton differ according to the qual- 
ity of the fabric to be made. Tbere 
is also another factor which enters In- 
to the manufacture of this class of 
fabric and that is its strength. 
Strength in yarn may be obtained by 
several different methods.either doub- 
ling and twisting two or more yams 
together or using a longer staple, or 
a combination of both, always con- 
sidering that machines through the 
mill are properly adjusted and set. 
Another method to obtain strength is 
to twist, tighten, or in other words put 

329 



340 



APPENDIX. 



in more twist per inch. Por the sam- 
ple of hammO'Ck cloth we will suppose 
it to be made up of 3-lOs warp and fill- 
ing, and we will assume the staple of 
the cotton to be % inch in length, 
straight cotton being used in the mix- 
ing. In the cheaper grades of this 
cloth comber and card stripping waste 
is put into the mixings in certain, pro- 
portions. The cotton would be mixed 
by hand and 

TWO PRO'CBSSES 
of picldng used. The ootton. should be 
allowed to stand as long as possible to 
dry out so as to be more easily work- 
ed, and it also lessens the liability of 
fires in the picker. Tihe breaker pick- 
er should be a combination picker with 
two sets of screens and two beaters. 
The back beater has three blades and 
hias a speed of 1,000 revolutions per 
minute. The forward beater has two 
"blades and has a speed of 1,400 revo- 
lutions per minute. If the lap meas- 
ures 40 yards, the weight ishould be 40 
pounds or a 16-O'unce lap. Generally, 
however, the lap is allowed to run as 
large as possible before being doffed. 
These laps are doubled 4 into 1, and 
come under the action of a two-bladed 
rigid beater, the speed of which should 
be about 1,375 revolutions^ per minute. 
The main points are to look out for 
fires, keep Tappers very near full, watch 
the eveners and piano motions and 
keep all parts in good working order. 
The total weight of a lap at the finish- 
er, for a 40-yard lap should be 37 
pounds, or a 14i/^-0'unce lap. Weigh 
every lap and allow a variation of 
th:ree-quarters of a pound either side 
of standard. These laps are then put 
up at the card, which is fitted with 
coarse wire fillet. 

THE DRAFT 
should not be more than 90 and the 
speed of cylinder 165 revolutions per 
minute and the Ticker-in speed 350 rev- 
olutions per minute. Flats make one 
revolution every 50 minutes (110 flats). 
Strip cylinders three times a day and 
doffer two times. The weight of the 
sliver should be G5 grains per yard and 
the production not less than 950 
pounds for a week of 60 hours. The 
ootton is next put through two proc- 
esses of drawing frames, the doublings 
being S into 1 at the breaker and '6 
into 1 at the finisher. The weight per 
yard at the finisher drawing should be 
80 grains; size three times a day. Me- 
tallic rolls may be used to good ad- 
vantage for this class of work. Watch 
all the knock-off land Bitop-motions 
at this machine and also look out for 



cut drawing. The roll setting for mer 
tallic rolls for seven-eighths inch stock 
is, front to second, 1% inches', second 
to third, 1^4 inches, and third to back, 
1% inches. In a great many mills the 
sliver at the drawing frame is sized 
only twice a day. The cans of draw- 
ing are put up to and run through the 
slubber, which makes it into .60 hank 
roving, which is afterwards put 
through one process of fly frames and 
made into two hank roving. Size this 
class of roving once a day at the fine 
frame. Look out to see that the 
hank clock cannot be moved and hanks 
made. It is next taken to the spinning 
room and made into 10s for warp on a 
frame with 3-inch gauge of frame, 
21/4-inch diameter ring, 7-incti 
traverse and spindle speed of 8,600 
revolutions per minute, after which it 
is twisted into 3-ply 10s at twister, 
and then spooled, warped and put 
through the slasher. For the filling 
yarn the two hank roving is spun on 
a filling frame with a 1%-inch diame- 
ter ring, 7-inch traverse and spindle 
speed of 6,400 revolutions per minute, 
after which it is twisted Into 3-ply 10s. 



MADRAS. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Madras is made up of various 
counts of yarn according to the quality 
wanted, and in the finer qualities of 
this fabric, silk is used for the stripes. 
Egyptian or a fine Sea Island ootton 
is generally used in the finer qualities. 
In this article we will consider the 
filling yarn to 'be made up of 80s Egyp- 
tian cotton with a staple of 1% inches. 
Egyptian cotton, generally srpeaking, 
is more easily worked than American 
cotton, and for this reason higher speeds 
are used than when the same counts 
of j'arn are made from Am'erican cct- 
ton. TTie cotton is generally mixed 
by hand, after which it is put through 
three process'es of ■pickers. At the 
breaker picker the speed of the three 
bladed beater is 1,0'50 revolutions per 
minute. The total weight of the lap 
at the front of this machine is 4f) 
pounds, or an 18-'ounce lap. At the 
intermediate picker the speed of a two- 
bladed beater is 1,450 revolutiooe per 
minute, while the total weight is 38 
pounds, or a 12-ounce lap. These are 
put up at the finisher picker and run 
through a two-bladed rigid beater, 
the speed of which is 1,400 revolutions 
per minute. The total weight of a 50- 



APPENDIX. 



341 



yard lap is 37 1^ pounds.or a 12 1/^ -ounce 
lap. Allow th© usual amoiunt of va- 
riation from standard weight of lap, 
and follow instructions for the picteer 
room for high-grade and fine yamis. 
The cotton is next passed to the caird. 

THE DRAFT 

of this card should not be less than 
110. The top flats should make one 
complete revolution every 30 minutes. 
The speed of th.e licker-in should be 
about 350. The weig'ht of the sliver is 
50 grains and the production for this 
class of goods is 475 pounds per week 
of 60 hours. Strip, grind, etc., the 
same as when Sea Island cotton is 
used. In mills that are especJally 
eqHipped for fine counts of yam the 
ware on the card will be fine. After 
Ipaving the card, the fulll cans are 
put up to the sliver lap machine. In the 
general type used the machine has 16 
ends doubled into 1 at the front. This 
lap weighs about 295 grains per yard. 
These laps; are put up at the ribbon 
latp machine and doubled six into 1. The 
weight per yard of lap at this machine 
is 275. This is for a six-ihead comber. 
The comber is the next machine and 
at this machine tihe laps are doubled 
6 Into 1. The settings of this ma- 
chine should be the same as when Sea 
Island cotton of the same length is 
used. The weight per yard of th« 
combed sliver is 40 grains, and the 
speed of the oo'mber 90 nips per min- 
ute. Several recipes! for varnish foT 
the leather-covered top rolls have 
been previously given and the follow- 
ing 

REiCIPE 

will be found to be an excellent addi- 
tion to those already given: BigM 
ounces of plate glue, 8 ounces of ground 
gelatine, 12 ounces of burnt sienna, 
one ounce of oil origanum, three pints 
acetic acid, one pint of water. The rib 
bon laps should be sized twice a day 
and a variation of five grains per yard 
eitheir side of the standard weight al- 
lowed before changing. The combed 
sliver is next put through two process 
es of drawing frames, the weight per 
yard of a yard of finished drawing be- 
ing 60 grains. The doublings at these 
machines are 6 into 1. Size the finish- 
ers four times daily and allow two 
grains per yard before changing. Tlie 
cotton is next put through the slubber 
and made into .60 hank roving. This 
is then put through three processes of 
fly frames, at the first intermediate be- 
ing made into 1.50 hank roving, at 
the second intermediate 4.50 and at the 
fine frame 16 hank. Egyptian cotton 



requires an extra tooth of twist as com- 
pared with Sea Island cotton of the 
saime length of staple and hank rov- 
ing. The middle top rolls on the fine 
o.r jack frame should not be dead 
weighted. This roving is taken to the 
spinning room and made into 80s yam 
(filling) on a frame with a li/4-inch 
diameter ring, S-iinch traverse, 29.07 
twist per inch and spindle speed of 7,- 
400. This yarn is then taken and con- 
ditioned. 



GINGHAMS. 



Carding and Spinniing Particulars. 

The yarns that make up ginghams 
(common) vary from 26s to 40s for 
both warp and filling. For the sam- 
ple of giingham under description we 
will consider the yarns to be No. 40s 
for both warp and filling. This yarn 
would be made from a medium grade 
of peeler cotton of about 1 3-16-inch 
staple. The cotton after being put 
thixDugh a bale breaker or an opener 
known as a preparer is put thr'ough 
three processes of pickers at the break- 
er picker. The speed of the three-blad- 
ed beater should be 1,150 revolutions 
per minute, and of the two-bladed beat- 
er of the same machine, 1,400 revolu- 
tions per minute. The total weight of 
the lap should be 40 pounds, or a 16- 
ounce lap. At the intermediate the 
speed of the beater should be 1,400 
for a rigid twoMbladed beater. 
The total weight of lap should 
be 38 pounds or a 12i/^-ounce lap. 
The finisher picker should be e»quipped 
with a pin beater, the speed of which 
should be 1,425 revolutions per minute. 
The weight of a full lap should be 
39 pounds or a 14-ounce lap. 

At the card use the same settings, 
etc., as given for indigo' prints. The 
flats sihould make one complete revo- 
lution every 50 to 55 minutes. Spesd of 
dO'ffer should be 350 revolutions per 
minute. 

THE WEiIGHT 
of the sliver should be 60 grains per 
yiard and the production 800 pounds for 
a week of 60 hours. The sliver is next 
put through three processes of draw- 
ing frames, the speed of the finisher 
drawing being 400 revolutions per min- 
ute. Watch the siettings.and size at this 
place four times a day, a variation of 
two grains either sid'e of standard 
weight being allowed. 

The weight of the sliver at the fin- 



342 



APPENDIX. 



isiher drawing should be 70 giralins per 
yard. Either metallic or leather cover- 
ed top rolls may be used to good ad- 
vantage on this stock. The drawing 
sliver is next put through the slubber 
and made into .60 hank roving. This is 
put through two procesises of fly frames 
and made into 2 hank roving at the 
first intermediate and 8 hank at the 
second. Watch the tension and waste 
and be especially careful of mix-ups. 
Size the fine roving at least once a day. 
The roving is taken to the spinning 
room and made into 40s on a warp 
frame with a 1%-dnch ring, 6i/^-inoh 
traverse, 28.46 twist per inch and a 
spindle speed of 10,000 revolutions per 
minute. The 3^arn is then spooled and 
warped, after which it is run through 
the slas'her. A good slize is as follows: 
water, 100 gallons; potato starch, 54 
pounds; Yorkshire gum, 2 pounds; 
white soap, 1% pounds. 

The 8 hank roving for filling yarn 
is made on a frame with 1%-inch di- 
ameter ring, 5%-inich traverse, 23.72 
twist per inch and a spindle speed of 
8,800 revolutions per minute. This 
yarn is then conditioned. 



SCRIM. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

Scrim is made of cotton counts of 
yarn from 20s to 40s. For this article 
we will consider the cotton to be 
1 3-16-inch staple peeler of a me- 
dium of 32s count. This class of goods 
is made in mills of the first division as 
given in a previous article. Large mix- 
ings should be made by hand and the 
cotton is then put through an opener 
and three processes of pickers. The 
breaker picker has two sets of cages 
and two beaters, the back beater hav- 
ing three blades and making 1,050 rev- 
olutions per minute. The front beater 
has two blades and makes 1,300 revo- 
lutions per minute. The total weight 
of a 40-yard lap at this machine is 40 
pounds, or a 16-ounice lap. The speed 
of the beater of the intermediate 
Theater (two hladed) should he 1,400 
revolutions per minute, and the total 
weight of the lap is ZTVp pounds,or a 
12-ounce lap. At the finisher the lap 
should weigh 39 pounds.or a 14%-ounce 
lap, while the sneed of the heater (of a 
pin type) should be 1.400 revolutions 
per minute. Every lap should be 
weighed and a variation of half a 
pound either side of standard weight 
allowed to pass, all others being put 
back to be run over again. 



THE, CARD CLOTHlINiG 

should be of a medium count wire, the 
wire for doffer and top flats being 
two points finer than the cylin- 
der. The draft of card should be about 
100 and the sliver should weigh 65 
grains per yard. The production 
should be 750 pounds for a week of 60 
hours, For other particulars for card 
follow those given for indigo prints. 
The cotton is next put through the 
sliver lap machine and doubled 16 in- 
to 1, the lap weighing 320 grains per 
yard. These laps are put up at the 
ribbon lap and doubled 6 into 1, the 
weight per yard being 440 grains for 
a lap 10% inches in width. These 
laps are put up to an eight-head comb- 
er and made into a 65-grain sliver, tak- 
ing out 17% per cent of waste. For 
roller varnish and other particulars 
about comber, see article on madras. 
The comber sliver is put through two 
processes of drawing frames, the doub- 
lings being 6 into 1 at each process. 
The weight per yard of the finished 
drawing is 75 grains. The same roller 
varnish may be used on the drawing 
frames as at the comber. Size four 
times a day and look out for the 
knock -off motions to see that they are 
in proper working order. The sliver 
is next put through the slubher and 
made into .60 hank roving. This is 
then put through two processes of fly 
frames or speeders, the hank roving 
at each being as follows: First inter- 
mediate 2 hank, and fine 6% hank. 
Keep the leather top rolls in good 
condition and watch to stop double, 
single and bunohes. 

THE ROVING- 

is then taken to the spinning room and 
sipun into 32s oin a w^arp frame with a 
1%-inch diameter ring, 6% -inch trav- 
erse, 26.87 twist per inch and spindle 
speed of 10,000 revolutions per minute. 
The yarn is then spooled, warped and 
run through the slasher, where it is 
put through a special size. 

The roving for the filling is spun 
into 32s on a frame with a 1%-inch 
diifimeter ring, 6-inch traverse, 21.21 
twist per inch and a spindle speed of 
8. son revolutions per minute. This 
yarn is conditioned. 

Some of the white cloths, such as 
ducks, pique, etc., which in miost sea- 
sons are always white, may be dyed to 
follow a freak of fashion. 

CREAM. 

For 100 pounds goods, two ounces 
immedial yelow D; 2 ounces imme- 
dial outch B; 1 pound sulphite sodi- 



APPENDIX. 



343 



um: 20 ipounds 'Salt; i/^ pound soda ash.. 
MAUVE. 
Two ounces diamine violet N; 10 
pounds Glauber's; 1 pound sal soda. 
EORU. 
One-half pound immediall cutch G; 
4 ounces immedial yellofw D; 2 pounds 
sulphide sodium; 10 pounds salt; 1 
pound soda ash. 

SKY BLUE. 
One pound immedial indone B; 2 
pounds sulphiide sodium; 2 pounds 
soda ash; 10 pounds salt. 

LIGHT SLATE. 
One and one-half pounds Immedial 
black N R T; 3 pounds sulphide sodi- 
um; 20 pounds salt; 2 pounds' soda ash. 



PIQUE. 



Carding and Spinning Particulars. 

The yams for picLue vary acoording 
to the quality wanted. A good quality 
and average grade of pique may he 
made from 30s yams of 1%-inch peel- 
er cotton (carded). After being put 
through a bale breaker the cotton Is 
put through three proaesBes of picker®, 
the isipeed of the beater at each process 
being as foliorws: 1,500 revdlutions per 
minute (two-bladed beater) for the 
breaker picker, 1,400 for the interme- 
diate picker (two blades), and 1,375 to 
1,450 for the finisher picker, according 
to the grade of cotton used. The to- 
tal weiglit of a finished lap should be 
35 pounds or a 12%-ounce lap. At the 
card the draft should not be leiss than 
100 or more than 110. The flats (110) 
make one revolution every 37 minutes. 
Strip three times a day. The weight of 
sliver should be 60 grains per yard; 



production, 750 pounds for a week of 
60 hours. 

The card sliver should be put 
through 

THREE PROCEiSSBS 
of drawing frames. These should be 
equipped with leather covered top 
rolls, the speed of the front roll of the 
finisher drawing being 350 to 400 rev- 
olutions per minute, acoording to pro- 
duction required. The weight of the 
sliver from this frame should be 75 
grains per yard. 

This sliver is put through the slub- 
ber and made into .50 hank roving. For 
9s filling yarn the slubber roving is 
put through one proicess of fiy frames 
and is made into 2 hank roving. If a 
large quantity of pique is being made 
the yarn for 9s may be made of a nauch 
lower grade and staple of cotton, but 
otherwise it is better to construct the 
yarn by the method given. 

The slubb'er roving for 30s yarn is put 
through two processes of fly fratmes, 
at the fl]'st intermediate being made 
into 2 hank and at the second being 
made into 7.50 hank. This roving is 
taken to the spinning ixDom and spun 
into 30s on a warp frame having a di- 
ameter of ring 1% inches, length of 
traverse 6% inches, twist per inch, 
26.02 and a spindle speed of 9,800 rev- 
olutions per minute. This yam is 
then spooled and warped, after which 
it is run through the slasher. 

The No. 9s yam is made on a filling 
spinning frame with a 1%-inch diame- 
ter ring, 7-inch traverse, 9.75 twist and 
a spindle speed of 6,200 revolutions per 
minute. 

The 30s yam is made on a frame 
with a 1%-inch diameter ring, 6-inch 
traverse, 19.17 twist per inch and a 
spindle speed of 8,300 revolutions per 
minute. 



The Crotjan, Lobe Company 



WHOLESALE AUCTIONEERS 



307 and 309 West Baltimore Street, Baltimore, Md. 



Woo/en SaJes Evory Thuraday, 



I nsr x) E 2c 



A 

Albatross 162 

Alhambra Quilt See Crochet Quilts 204 

Army Duck Duck 56 

Awning Stripe Duck Duck 56 



Back-Oloth 338 

Baline 326 

Barathea 298 

Bath Robes See Terry 29 

Batiste 1 25 

Bayadere 102 

Bayadere of Mercerized Cotton^ 112 

Bedford Cord 152 

Bedspreads See Crochet Quilts 204 

Satin Quilts 211 

Marseilles Quilts 3, 116, 207 

Beige 275 

Bengal Stripes 313 

Biaz 270 

Bishop's Lawn 308 

Book Muslin 258 

Boucle 106 

Bourrette 79 

Braid Wicking See Lamp Wicking 318 

Brighton 328 

Brilliante 255 

Brilliantine 141 

Brocatelle 167 

Buckram 195 

Butcher's Muslin 176 

c 

Calico 144 

Cambric 181 

Cambric, Kid Finish 273 

Canton Flannel 53 

Canvas 337 

Cashmere Twill 110 

Cassimere^ Cotton 218 

Chambray 51 

Checks See Ginghams 9, 15, 118, 341 

Osnaburg 62 

Satin Checks 288 

Shadow Checks 297 

Stop-Peg Checks 188, 243 

Tartans .100, 192 

Cheeeecloth 132 

Cheviot Shirting 66 

344 



INDEX. 345 

Chintz 158 

Coburg Suiting 271 

Corded Fabrics See Baratliea 298 

Bedford Cord 152 

• Corduroy 45 

Eolienne 320 

Pique 3, 114, 343 

Poplin 278 

Corduroy 45 

Coitonade 34 

Cotton Cassimere 218 

Cotton-Mohair Fabrics 280 

Cotton Worsted, IVIen'e Wear 36 

Counterpanes See Quilts 

Coverlets See Quilts 

Crammed Stripes See Unequally Reeded Stripes. 240 

Crash 12, 339 

Crash, Hammock 6 

Crepons 302 

Cretonne 92 

Crinkle , 32 

Crinoline I9 

Crochet Quilts 204 

Curtain Cloth See Shade Cloth 306 

Curtain Duck See Duck 56 

D 

Damask 21 

Denim 77 

Dhooties 237 

Diaper Cloth 325 

Dimity 48 

Dimity, Indian 248 

Domet 13 

Doria Stripes See Unequally Reeded Stripes. 240 

Drapery Fringe See Hammock Crash 7 

Drill 72 

Duck 55 

Duree Quilt See Satin Quilts 211 

E 

Eolienne 320 

Etaimine 122 

F 

Farmer's Satin See Italian Cloth 128 

Felting, Table See Silence Cloth 292 

Filling Reversibles .^"^34 

Flannel, Canton 53 

Flannel, Domet or Outing 13 

Flannelette 74 

Foundation Muslin 291 

Fringe See Hammock Crash 7 

Fustians See Velveteens 134 



346 . INDEX. 

G 

Galatea 329 

Gingham, Common 9, 341 

Gingham, Madras 118 

Gingham, Zephyr 15 

Gloria Cloth 334 

Grenadine 251 

H 

Haircloth See Crinoline 19 

Hammock Cloth 26, 339 

Hammock Crash , 6 

Handkerchiefs 322 

Henrietta 178 

Herringbone Stripes 283 

Hickory Stripes 58 

Honeycomb 327 

Honeycomb Crash Toweling 12 

Honeycomb Quilt See Crochet Quilts 204 

Huckaback Towels. 12, 227 

I 

imitation Gauze '. 230 

India Linen 261 

Indian Dimity 248 

Indigo Prints 198 

Irish Poplin See Poplin 278 

Italian Cloth 128 

J 

Jean 90 

K 

Kensington Quilts See Satin Quilts 211 

Kid Finish Cambric - 273 

Kno or Loop Cloth 300 

L 

Lamp Wicking 317 

Lappet Grenadine 251 

Laundry Bags See Scrim 6 

Lawn 97 

Lawn, Bishop's 308 

Lawn, Union Linen 286 

Lawn, Victoria 267 

Leno Fabrics 200 

Also see Leno Waisting 40 

Madras Gingham 118 

Leno Waisting 40 

Linen Finish Suiting 270 

Linings, Combed Yarn 108 

Linings, Orleans 294 

Linings, Taffeta Silk 264 

Also see Cambric 181 

Italian Cloth 128 

'Silesia 94 

Linon 261 

Long Cloth 193 

Loop Cloth 300 

Also see Boucle 106 



INDEX. 347 

M 

IVIadras 8, 340 

IVIadras Gingham IIS 

Marseilles Quilts 3, 116, 207 

Mock Leno 230 

Also see Canvas 337 

IVIitcheline Quilts See Satin Quilts 211 

.Mull 260 

TVIuslin, Book 258 

Muslin, Butcher's 176 

Muslin, Foundation 291 

N 

Nainsook ^^® 

Nankeen or Nankin 290 

Netting See Scrim 5 

Novelty Dress Goods 69 

o 

Ondule 221 

Organdie ''^^ 

Orleans Linings 294 

Osnaburg ^2 

Outing or Domet Cloth "13 

P 

Percale ^^^ 

Percaline ^^^ 

Pique 3, 114, 343 

Plaids, Tartan 100, 192 

Also see Checks. 

Popl in 278 

Prints, Indigo 1^^ 



Prints, Calico. 



144 
Also see Cliintz 156 



Quilts, Crochet 204 

Quilts, Marseilles 3, 116, 207 

Quilts, Satin 211 



Raincloth 



215 



Reversibles, Filling 234 



Robes 



310 



s 

Sateen or Satine 1^3 

Satin Checks 288 

Satin Stripes .See Unequally Reeded Stripes. 240 

Satin Quilts 211 

Scr i m ^' 342 



Seersucker 



32 



Shade Cloth 306 

Shadow Checks 297 

Sheeting 64 

Shirting, Cheviot °° 

Shirting Fancy °' 



Silence Cloth. 
Silesia 



292 

94 



Spots Formed With Extra Warp ''87 

Stop-Peg Checks 243 

Also see Raised Stripe Plaid.. 188 

Stripes, Bengal 313 



348 I N D E X. 

Stripes, Herringbone 283 

Stripes, Hickcory 58 

Stripes, Satin 240 

Stripes, Unequally Reeded 240 

Suiting, Coburg 271 

Suiting, Linen Finish 270 

Also see Bourrette 79 

Suspender Webbing 246 

T 

Tablecovers See Damask 21 

Table Felting See Silence Cloth 292 

Taffeta Silk Lining or Taffetine 264 

Tapef 84 

Tarlton 164 

Tartan Plaids 100, 192 

Terry Cloth 29, 171 

Terry Poplin See Poplin 278 

Ticking 59 

Also see Satine 174 

Tire Fabrics 183 

Toweling^ Crash 12 

Toweling, Damask 21 

Toweling, Honeycomb 327 

Toweling, Huckaback 227 

Toweling, Terry or Turkish 29, 171 

Tubular Fabrics 

Tucks 4 

Turkey Red 315 

Turkish Toweling 29, 171 

u 

Umbrella Cloths 226 

Also see Gloria Cloth 334 

Unequally Reeded Stripes 240 

Union Linen Lawns 286 

Upholstery Goods See Brocatelle 167 

Chintz 156 

Corduroy 45 

Cretonne 92 

Satine 173 



Velour 332 

Velverets See Velveteen 134 

Velveteen 134 

Velveteen, Cutting 138 

Vesting 85 

Victoria Lawn 267 

w 

Waisting, Leno 40 

Webbing, Suspender , 246 

Wicking, Lamp 317 

z 

Zephyr Gingham 15 



Non-fluid OILS 



NON-FL/vJID OII^S represent a radical improve- 
ment in lubrication over fluid oils and greases — Fluid oils drip 
and spatter and waste. Greases have to be softened by 
frictional heat before they begin to lubricate and hence 
actually increase friction instead of reduce it. 

NON-FLVJID OlhfS are exactly what theirname 
implies — fluid oils rendered non-fluid. They have all the 
friction-reducing power of the best mineral oils ; all the 
cleanliness, economy and ease of application of greases. 

NO N -FLUID OIL/tS are employed with wonder- 
ful success for the lubrication of mill machinery in many of 
the largest textile mills in the United States. 

TEST SAMPLES FBEE, BY PAID EXPMESS. 

THE NEW YORK & NE<37 JERSEY LUBRICANT COMPANY 
H-I6 CHURCH ST., NEW YORK CITY. 



Pure Crystal Water 

FOR TEXTILE MILLS 



Brilliant, Uniform Colors; Light Shades Absolutely Matched 
Pure Whites, Free from Spots. 

Better Quality ; Increased Demand ; More Customers ; Larger 

Profits. 

o o s ^ ® 

Little to Install ; Almost Nothing to Operate ; Lasts a Lifetime* 



Pressure and Gravity Filters. Water Softeners 

HUNGERFORD FILTER CORPORATION 

308 Harrison Building, PHILADELPHIA, PA. 




Automatic Fricflion ClutcK 



There has been for a long time a domand for 
an automatic friction clutch. In many Instances 
where clutches are used, the Instant that it 1« 
thrown into contact there is an immense strain 
upon belts, bearings, shaftings, etc., and it hai 
always been impossible to overcome this defect. 
On a woolen card, for instance, we know that 
when it is started up the belt ia thrown on 
gradually, that the operative or whoever starts up 
the set has to stand by each belt and gradually 
start the cylinder. In a room where there are 
perhaps 100 looms or 10 sets of cards, a great 
deal of unnecessary wear and tear could be obvi- 
ated if it were possible to economically apply 
power gradually. Up to the present time, how- 
ever, it has been impossible to obtain this de- 
sired condition. 

Recently there has been perfected the Hilliard 
Automatic Clutch, which has the following si>e- 
cial features. 

THE SPECIALi FEATURES 
of the Hilliard Automatic Clutch are as follows: 

First: It la not manually operated only In bo 
far as engaging and disengaging of meohanlBm 
is concerned. This is accomplished by means of 
a small shitting lever that can be thrown in and 
out at will on any size clutch with thumb and 
forefinger. As a result, no expensive shifting de- 
vice is necessary. 

Second: The clutch is entirely automatic in 
so far as application of tension to frictional parts 
is concerned. This result is obtained by means 
of gear driven mechanism actuated by driving 
member, insuring a more gradual and accurate In- 
crease of friction aaid a more positive drive than 
Is now possible to obtain by the use of any other 
clutch on the market. 

Tliird : The clutch being automatic In adjust- 



ment, machinery connected therewith is started 
gradually and as slowly as practicable in con- 
formity with any given speed of power transmis- 
sion; all excess strain and wear on line-shafting, 
hangers, pulleys and belting is, therefore, en- 
tirely eliminated. 

Fourth: Release is obtained instantly by 
throwing out the hand lever to disengage the 
driven from the driving mechanism, there being 
no unwinding of parts to accomplish this result. 

Fiftli: The automatic self-tightening of 
clutch takes care of all increased loads, the mech- 
anism being so constructed that any slippage of 
clutch will instantly increase the force of the 
frictional engagement. 

Sixth: No end thrust is created on shafting 
by this clutch. 

Seventh: It Is very neat in design, there 
being no protruding parts, and is therefore with- 
in the requirements of all factory laws. It is 
economical of space on shafting, both as to length 
and diameter of clutch. 

GE^ighth: It assures immunity from effects of 
careless handling by ignorant or hasty employes; 
the clutch being self-regulating, the machinery 
will start only at a safe speed. 

The features of this clutch herein enumerated 
make it especially desirable for installation in 
textile mills and electric light plants, and, in 
fact, on any machinery. 

We manufacture both solid and split clutches 
for cut-off couplings, and with extension sleeve, 
for clutch pulleys, ranging in sizes from 25 to 1,- 
000 horse power. 

This clutch, besides being automatic, as above 
described, can be used also as an ordinary fric- 
tion clutch or cut-off coupling, bo that on another 
machine or in any part of the mill where it ia 
necessary to immediately apply full power, the 
Hilliard clutch can be used. The writer has seen 
these clutches in operation in the plant of the 
Hilliard Clutch & Machinery Co., at Elmira, 
N. Y. , and has compared them with practically 
all friction pulleys which are now being used in 
textile mills and he has never seen one which 
could do all of the work which the Hilliard clutch 
can be depended upon to perform. 

A neat catalogue with full description of the 
workings of this clutch, fully illustrated and giv- 
ing prices, can be had by writing to the 



HILLIARD CLUTCH (Si MACHINERY CO. 

£LMIR.A. NE^V YORK 




CHAIN BEAMERS 

COMBINED WITH 

WARP COMPRESSORS 



SHIPPED SUBJECT TO APPROVAL 



Naming cMachtnety 

0>pper & Heck Long and Short Chain Systems 
DRY SLASHERS 

Extra Heavy for Cotton Duck 

Special Machinery for Rag and Jute Yarns 



BUILT BY 



Worcester Warp Compressing Machine Co* 

WORCESTER, MASS. 



The "Perkins" Fan 




The accompanying cut represents 
one of the 22 styles of Fans which 
we manufacture. If interested 
send for our new illustrated 
catalogue No. 78, Vol. 2, showing 
all the 22 styles. It also gives 
general information as to 

HOW TO VENTILATE I 
HOW TO INSTALL! 
POWER REQUIRED I 
CAPACITY, ETC 



Style "J" Our Improved Steel Frame Vertical Fan 



B. F. PERKINS & SON, Inc. 

Ventilating Dept. HOLYOKE, MASS. 

TEXTILE COMMISSION CO. 

FORMERLY 73 WORTH STREET 

NOW LOCATED AT 

No. 41 WORTH STREET 

New York City 



BROWN AND COLORED 

Cotton Goods 

Consignments Solicited 
Philadelphia Chicago St. Louis Atlanta 



The American Wool 
and Cotton Reporter 

. The Leading Textile Weekly of the United States — — 



WE challenge contradiction of our statement, 
that THE WOOL AND COTTON 
REPORTER has a larger bona fide circulation 
among cotton, woolen, worsted, hosiery and carpet 
mills than any other paper in the United States. 

The Reporter is the only paper in the United 
States devoted to all the materials, processes and 
products of textile manufacture, from the farm and the 
field, through the loom and the cloth perch, to the 
counter of the merchant and the back of the consumer. 
It has imitators in some departments, but is practically 
without competition in its scope and circulation. 

Our mailing list is always open to the inspection 
of our customers and all other information will be 
furnished upon addressing us at either of our offices : 



Frank P. Bennett & Co., Inc. 

530 Atlantic Ave.. Boston 757 Broadway and 3 1 Nassau St.. N. Y. City 

308 Chestnut St.. Philadelphia, Pa. 930 Monadnock Building. Chicago, 111. 

208 Corcoran Bldg.. Washington. D. C. 440-3 Constitution Bldg.. Salt Lake City. Utah 

215 Fourth Avenue. Pittsburgh, Pa. 



AgsntB and Correspondents in every tecHon of the United States and in every 
country of the teorld. 



